I have a 2004 Yamaha grizzly 660. When in neutral you can rev it up fine until it hits the rev limiter. When riding it it rides fine until about 20mph and then you give it more gas and it is like it is revving out, you can hold the throttle down and it will still run but just cut out. I have cleaned the carb thoroughly, and the air filter. I just put a new belt on it but it was doing it before that. please help.
Sounds like you still have some slipping going on. Be sure you have the correct deflection in the belt and also if the sheaves or sliding parts of your clutch system have not been serviced in a while this could cause the hesitation at higher speeds. When the primary or drive clutch cannot slide it will create this problem. Start with a very good off ATV service in the clutching area and see how that helps.
I also bought a Can-Am ds 70 cc and was told that the atv would top out at 25mph. I was told there was a restrictor plate that could be removed. These were all lies. My boy now prefers riding his old 50cc that is much faster. Any help to make it faster would be greatly appreciated. I see from the other CANAM DS 70 post that I am not the only one tricked by a salesman with false information. PLEASE HELP!!!
Getting more power out of any engine is as simple as getting more air and fuel into the engine and getting the exhaust out. Unfortunately, there are not many aftermarket items for this model and may not be in our current economic state. Try adding a clamp-on filter without the box and opening the exhaust up just a bit. The carb could use a bigger primary jet as well as a larger main jet. These are just quick tips but maybe it will get you moving toward your breath-taking 25 mph goal. By the way, what happens when the kid gets thrown off at 25 mph? I know for a fact that it could discourage the child’s eagerness to ride for sure!
TUNNEL HILL, GA
I have a 250 Timberwolf. No problems except I shifted into reverse and it will not come out. Any suggestions?
If I were to give a really quick answer it would be to look under the right side of the engine cover and be sure the shift shaft hasn’t popped out of its place. Typically the shaft can be driven in from the left side and can slip off its position. Now, the longer more detailed answer would have to be given by your dealer, as the case may need to be opened up to see the issue. Good luck.
Grahamstown, South Africa
Hey, I have a 650 Bombardier. Just got a new regulator for it. The bike keeps on hitting the negative out. It is bring out 14.89 volts. Is this the problem or not? What else can it be?
Wow, I wish I had a clue as to what you are asking. If the battery is giving up 14.89 volts to the starter then there should be no problem starting the ATV as long as the proper key is used. Maybe a few more details next time would help me to give a better diagnosis.
I have a 1994 Polaris. I found starter needs to come out. Starter runs but won’t engage. How do I remove the starter? I can’t figure how to get it out. Dosen’t seem to be enough room to get it out. Thanks.
Tony, Tony, Tony, now you know I really need to have the model and year on your machine before I can even get close to what you need. All starters look difficult to get out, but if you follow the golden rule and purchase a factory service manual you will have a much easier time.
From: Mike Chaplin
Fair Haven, NJ
I just bought a 2005 Polaris Phoenix from a police auction and it has had the plastic-stripped light removed and the rear brake line cut off? Anyway, it will just not start. Has spark and gas but I have been told there is a safety mechanism in the rear brake required for it to start? Is there any truth to this or just an urban legend?
There is an electrical switch that is actuated by the rear brake lever but I’m not sure if it controls the ignition or not. I would say that a 200 or higher would not have a safety for starting, as this ATV’s target audience is supposed to be a bit more experienced. If this machine has sat for a while it might be a good idea to go through the carb and using fresh gas with a new plug. You might find a smooth running engine.
I have a honda trx 200 from 86' or 87' forgot which, but it has a centrifugal clutch and i would rather have a manual so is there a way for me to change that without getting a new motor.
If you desire a totally different ATV then get what you want, but from my experience meshing two different ATVs together is a nightmare. I wouldn’t even attempt it, my friend. You could buy an ATV 10 years newer for what it would cost in pain medication to get you better after this fiasco.
I have an 06 Arctic Cat 650 v2. While Checking power to the Fuel pump the power comes on for the pump to pump but shuts off after 3 or 4 seconds after turning on the main switch. I have to run with the choke on to keep the engine running. The Service rep tells me that it shouldn't shut off what is my problem.
Seems to me you have some trashy gas or possibly a little varnish build up in the carbs. If the ATV runs with the choke on then I would get my service manual and go through the carbs really good. Be sure that you clean out each jet in each carb (V-Twin model) including the primary and main. The primary jet operates a lot more than you might think, so get to work so you can get to riding.
Reference article Suzuki LT80 Light Kit Review: http://atv.off-road.com/atv/article/articleDetail.jsp?id=190974
55 watts are not too much for this ATV. it will not kill the battery. I was told no more than 35 watts. Is this not true can you give me your input? thank you.
There is always the possibility of killing the battery with over drawing the stator. Weak or old batteries can be drained more quickly. But it is likely the manufacturer has erred on the side of caution when quoting wattage limits, and most kits have been researched well before being placed on the market. Good luck.
Not sure if you got my first post ... but I have a 2005 A/C 650V2 that while riding I lost all power. All fuses, cdi, battery are good. I am unable to readily check the ignition switch is it is a sealed unit but does feel good when turning. The unit is low miles and has been taken care of. I'm really ticked that I am having such a problem. Any ideas on what I should try or look at?
Well it sounds like you are not having any luck. Without knowing just what transpired before the unit quit it is hard to come up with a plan to try and solve the trouble. I would say check the simple stuff first. Is the fuel in the on position? If so, is it possible that the fuel is too low and you need to swap to reserve? Sounds simple but you would be surprised how many people overlook this. Next, I would put a brand new plug in and be sure you’re getting fire. Not a cleaned up used one but a new spark plug. Be sure you’re getting fire, fuel and air and you’ll be running the woods before long.
Hi, all, i have a kids generic atv, make unknown. was running but has stopped. it tries to run while the starter button is pressed, but stops instantly as you release. there is no ignition, only the stop button. but there is a sealed connection box with four wires going into it, but iot has and ariel cable running from the box?..... if any body has a clue that would be great. thanks. a struggling dad. :) it’s the only thing that keeps my kids happy.
The first thing I would do is change the plug. These generic ATVs are filled with gremlins, but the biggest is the ignition system. Good luck.
Will this power train be in the Prowler soon, if not why? This would allow AC to dominate the field. I am holding off on the purchase of a UTV awaiting the news.
Well my friend your dream has come true as the engineers over at Arctic Cat have placed the 1000 into their SXS market, and it’s called the Arctic Cat Prowler XTZ 1000 H2 UTV. So go out and by ya one today!
Article Reference: Can-Am Unleashes its 2008 ATV Line-Up
When we will be able to see a picture of the new side by side?
After long discussions and many considerations Can-Am has decided to push the release of the long-awaited SXS into the year 2010. It’s not a money issue for sure but more of a great strategy by a very intelligent company to make sure that when their UTV comes to the market it is the very best. Sorry to dash your hopes and dreams but we all are still waiting together.
Subject: mule rear axle
Hi, I bought a used 2000 2510 4x4 Diesel Mule. It has been the best for me being I have 10 ac and needed to move dirt, trees, trash. I put a snow blade on the front to push limbs and dirt with and it works great. My problem is I broke the right rear axle and got another to replace it but I can't get it in.
The rear axle housing is soiled and to splines on the one shaft are twisted about one inch from the back, which does not let the u joint go all the way back to slide in the rearend. I started to take off the other side and do it last but it has the Diff. collar and won't allow the movement I need. Do you have any ideas?
The first thing I do when working on anything that has oil or lubricates in it is to clean the surrounding areas really good. This prevents dirt or mud from getting into the transfer case or differential. That will cause future problems if it isn’t carefully cleaned. It seems there may be more than a broken axle here. Twisting one of these behemoths off is no easy task, and I would suspect that it has put the other components in the drive system at risk. If there are splines in the other parts that show signs of twisting, you may need more than just the broken axle. I’d head into the nearest shop for a professional look and opinion.
Thanks once again for all the very interesting questions. Keep them coming and I’ll do my best to get the information you need to get back in the trail.