Reversing the Process

Nov. 01, 2005 By ORC STAFF
Putting the new track in pretty much involves doing all these steps in the reverse order. That is easier said than done, especially when it comes to putting the drive shaft back in. First off, if you have a buddy who can help this part is a lot easier. I'm not saying you can't do it alone, but if you try to do it by yourself make sure no neighbor kids are around because you're going to use some adult language.

Click for larger image Poke the track under the machine and put the driver up in it. Put the end on the speedo side through the tunnel, rotate the shaft up and poke it in the chain case. This is the hard part because you have to slide this shaft into the chain case and the track is going to hang you up. There isn't much room to get the drivers to clear the drive teeth on the track, but it can be done. If you push the track up into the front of the tunnel as far as you can and your buddy slides the drive shaft into the chain case it can be done. Be a little cautious on the chain case side, there is a seal in the back of it that you can damage if you're not careful. This is the hardest part of the whole process so keep at it and you'll be on the downhill slope once its in.

Once you get the shaft back up in place, put the lower sprocket on it without the chain and screw your bolt into it. You don't have to tighten this down, you're just using this to keep the shaft in the chain case while you work on the other side. Put the speedo side back together in the reverse order you took it apart, making sure to get the speedo drive key in place. On the RMK the speedo side bearing is pressed on so it should help you get things lined back up just right. Once you get the speedo drive put back on and the nuts tightened down you can pull the sprocket back off. Install the chain, sprocket and tensioner, making sure to loctite the sprocket bolt and get the spacers in the right location. Tighten the chain tensioner up so most of the slack is out of the chain and then leave it for now... you'll adjust it in a minute.

Click for larger image Reinstall the skid frame, putting the front in first and then the rear. A trick to getting the rear bolts in is to pull the rear coil springs off their stops and let them hang loose. Then you can move the mounting shaft back and forth to get the bolts started. Put some loctite on the 4 mounting bolts when you put them in the skid frame. Once they are started you can put the springs back on the stops. With the skid frame remounted in the tunnel you can adjust the tension of the chain. You want to tighten the chain up so it doesn't have any slack, but you don't want it tight enough to play a tune on. Work the track back and forth and make sure the slack is out of the chain when you're pulling and pushing the track.

Now just finish putting stuff back on in the reverse order you took them off. Put the cover back on the chain case and fill it to the appropriate level through the fill hole. Put your pipe and canister back on making sure to get all the springs back in the right places. Put the speedo cable back on, pump some grease into the speedo drive and put the driven clutch back on. Reinstall the belt and your finished other than adjusting the track tension.

Track tension is important and lots of people have many different ideas on how tight or loose a track should be. According to the 1998 Polaris service manual, the track tension on the Xtra10 should be set by hanging a 10lb weight 16" ahead of the rear idler. This weight should cause a 3/8 - 1/2" deflection. It is also very critical to get the track alignment correct so that it runs down the hifax straight.

Congratulations! You've just completed your track swap. Don't forget to periodically check the track tension and even the chain tension... good advice whether you've changed the track or not.


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