Getting Started

Nov. 01, 2005 By ORC STAFF
You're going to want to get a couple of parts out of the way before you start on actually pulling the track out. First thing is to lift the hood and remove the belt. After that you're going to pull the driven clutch off. It just has a little bolt that holds it in place and once you remove the bolt you can slide the clutch off. Be careful and make sure you keep track of how many spacers/washers go on the bolt side of the clutch and how many go on the bulkhead side. Also note that the clutch is held from rotating by a key in a key way. Don't loose this key.

After you've pulled the clutch off, you need to remove the speedo cable from the speedo drive. This is a simple little screw on collar that holds it on, but sometimes they are pretty tight. If need be, use the pliers to loosen it and then spin it off. Just pull it back out of the way so you can get to the speedo drive and the 3 nuts that hold it on.

Before removing the speedo drive switch over to the other side of the machine and pull off the canister of the pipe. You're going to need to get in to the chain case so you'll need to remove the canister and maybe even the pipe. You just pull the springs off all the mounting points and the pipe will lift out.

Next thing to do is to drain the oil out of the chain case. This can be accomplished in various ways, but on the RMK Polaris has helped us out. If you get down and look at the bellypan right under the chain case you'll see a little hole. Using the allan wrench you can access the chain case drain plug through this hole. Remove the drain plug and drain the oil into your drain pan.

Click for larger image Once the oil has been drained, leave the pan under the edge of the machine and pull the chain case cover off. There are 4 bolts that hold this on. After you remove the bolts you'll be able to pull the cover off... it might stick to the gasket a little, but be patient and apply even pressure and it will come off. Once the cover is off, take the bolt out of the lower sprocket. You can hold the brake on to keep the gear from rotating. This bolt will be loctited on and when you put it back together you're going to put some loctite back on it. Once the bolt is out, loosen the chain tension adjuster. Remove the chain and bottom sprocket, making sure to note which spacers go on each side, inner and outer, of the sprocket and how the sprocket goes on (which side is in and which is out). You can also slip the tensioner off as well.

With the sprocket, tensioner and chain removed you can use some solvent to clean out the chain case if it is dirty or grimy. If you have a good sized oil pan under the machine the solvent will drain out of the belly pan and into the pan. Aside from changing tracks this is giving you a good chance to check out everything in the chain case and change the oil.

Finally you need to remove the skid frame from the machine. This can be hard work because the track has a tendency to grab the slide rail, but a little patience and you'll get it. First off is to lift the back of the machine up and suspend it from a stand or something. You'll need the back of the track about 4 or 5 inches off the ground. Remove the rear bolts that mount the skid frame in the tunnel. These bolts are also loctited and can be a bit stubborn. A trick on the tunnel bolts is to loosen one, tighten it back down, loosen the other side and then back both out. Once both of them are out you'll repeat the operation on the front two. The skid will fall down out of the tunnel and you can now work it out of the track. I usually start from the back, working the back end out first. If you don't seem to have enough space you can back the track tensioners off, but this usually isn't necessary.

Removing the Track
Click for larger image With all the peripheral stuff out of the way you're ready to pull the track. Simply remove the 3 nuts holding the speedo drive to the tunnel. Pull the speedo drive off, remove the square drive key sticking out of the shaft and pull the outer bearing plate (it's triangle shaped like the speedo drive) off.

Click for larger image With the speedo drive and bearing plate off you are ready to remove the shaft. Open the track up and get "inside" it. I usually lay a piece of cardboard on the track so that it doesn't poke me in the back while I'm laying on it. Pull the track drivers all the way to the speedo side. This will allow the end of the shaft to come out of the chain case and swing down. Then you can pull the shaft back out of the speedo side of the tunnel and bingo, the track has been pulled. Note: This is a good time to check the lower chain case bearing to make sure it isn't hurt in anyway.

Before Starting to Install
Here is a quick little check list of things to do before you start to reassemble the machine. Take care of all of these things before you start putting the track back in so that you don't have to stop part way through.

    1 - Give the skid frame a good inspection looking for boggie problems, frozen shafts, worn hifax or any other damage.
    2 - Clean up all the parts for the chain case.
    3 - Wipe off any grease from the speedo side of the drive shaft (it'll keep you from getting covered with grease during the install process).
    4 - Inspect the chain case components including the bearings. Also check the speedo side bearing on the drive shaft.
    5 - Install the slide rail extensions on the slide rails. This is a bit different for each set you buy, depending on where you get them from. There will be instructions in the package so simply follow them.
    6 - Take a soda break.
Click for larger image

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