2003 Ski-Doo Rev 600 H.O. Arm Bushing Replacement

Snowmobile suspension fix

Mar. 05, 2008 By Tony Severenuk
I knew something wasn't quite right in the front suspension of my 6 H.O., when on the trail could hear something banging in the front end. This was very evident when I would go off a jump and both skis would land at the same time. In an effort to see where the rattle was coming from, I put the sled on the lift and noticed there was play in the bushings where the a-arms attached to the bulkhead.

Once the sled is off the ground, lift the ski tip up and you'll be able to see the play in the a-arms.

It  I searched on line for a better solution to the SKI-DOO plastic bushings and found  "Snow Shooters Oil-lite A-arm Bushings Set" which are available for REV and REV XP models. The best news is that they come in at only slightly more expensive then the stock SKI-DOO ones and will last a lot longer. You can order a set by contacting [email protected]

I started by lifting the sled off the floor and noted how much play was in the font end. Next I removed the side body panels, the silencer and the pipe. 

There is quite a bit more room to manoeuvre under the hood with the exhaust system removed.

Next I removed the shock from the sled and unbolted the top and bottom a-arms.

Unbolting both arms at the same times creates a bit of a hanging mess. Try working on either the top or bottom a-arm at a time and things will go smoother.

 I removed the stock a-arm bushings and quickly realized why there was so much play in the front end. The stock bushings are made of plastic and have become all scratched and worn though.

You can see how the stock bushing are all worn out and how good the new units look.

 I took the steel sleeves from the bushings and cleaned them up with 150 grid sand paper and cleaned them off with a rag that was moistened with W-40. Next I rubbed my finger inside the a-arms and felt that there were burrs inside where collars and the a-arms where welded together. I used my Dremel tool with a small sanding disk on it and cleaned out the inside of the a-arm. This wasn't necessary for every a-arm but I did have to do it for six out of the eight.

I then pushed the oil-lite bushing into the a-arm with a very firm push of the palm of my hand. I had one instance where I didn't have the a-arm cleaned out enough and the bushing got stuck half-way in. I was able to get the bushing out without damaging it by gently tapping back out with a brass drift and after spending a bit more time cleaning out the a-arm the bushing went in smoothly.

A note about the new bushings: the material has a high tensile strength but it is not meant to be pryed. This isn't unique to this product so don't use your 2 lb hammer to knock these into the a-arms. The instruction sheet that accompanies the bushings has a very strong warning that these bushings cannot be pounded into the arms. Doing so with either deform the bushings so the steel inserts won't fit into them or it will break the flange off the outer rim.

Once all the bushings are replaced on the side and you have the a-arms bolted back in to the specified 35 ft-lbs you can do the other side.

Once you've got the shocks bolted back into the sled you can install the silencer, pipe and body panels and look forward to riding a tighter handling sled.

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