ATV Answerman Answers Your ATV Questions

Mar. 24, 2010 By Ricky Sosebee

Welcome to our second edition of ATV Answer Man for 2010. Bring us all your ATV and side-by-side questions. If you need help with modifications or suggestions, we can help with that also. We love to hear from you!

Can-Am Unleashes its 2010 ATV Line-Up
From: Wyatt Bonner
Magee, MS
When we will be able to see a picture of the new side-by-side?

After long discussions and many considerations, Can-Am has decided to push the release of the long-awaited SXS into the year 2010. But the wait will not be much longer, as it has been announced that June in the magic month. It’s not a money issue for sure but more of a great strategy by a very intelligent company to make sure that when their UTV comes to the market it is the very best. Sorry to dash your hopes and dreams but we all are still waiting together. You can bet we will have some info on this model as soon as it hits the floor!

From: Phil
Leesburg ,FL
I have a 2003 Rincon. 1600 miles and suddenly will not go over 15 mph. Starts and runs ok but will not get up and go as it use to. No other problems.??
Thanks, Phil

Have you tried checking the fuel to see if there might be any kind of contaminants in the tank? Maybe drain the carb and put some fresh gas in the quad. Even in your gas there could be condensation that makes its way to the quad, and in small amounts this can wreak havoc on your acceleration.

From here I would move on to the plug just to make sure any bad gas in the past hasn’t fouled the ignition to extinction. Some carburetors will have a drain on the bottom of the bowl and/or a screw on the side at the bottom of the carb bowl that is used to drain off any water or trash in the bowl. One last thing is the carb itself - if this ATV sits for months without being ridden, the carb could have varnished up and is possibly not letting enough fuel to the engine.


From: Ruben
Hi there,
What is the definition of a long travel?
Also, I have a raptor 700 (2008) and I am looking to upgrade the suspension to +2 A-Arms and good set of shocks. I ride mostly trails, where terrain varies from rocky to sand to plain dirt trails. What is your recommendation?
Ruben, Tundra Raptor

Long-travel suspension is just what its name implies. This is a term used to describe an extended amount of wheel travel over the stock setup. Long-travel shocks give the rider not only a more comfortable ride but it takes up much more of the trail’s rough spots. The only drawbacks for longer travel are body roll in the quad. It also limits trail width clearance in some trails. This means the wider you go the quicker your reactions need to be in order to get through the tight stuff. Lowering the center of gravity of your ATV with the long travel suspension can make for a much smoother and better handling ATV. There are many different makers of long-travel suspensions that you’ll have to do a little research to get opinions on each. Good luck.


From: Lilly
Milltown, CANADA
I’ve got a 2000 Yamaha Kodiak Automatic. If I put it in 4x4 with the switch on the handle bar, it doesn’t stay engaged even though the switch is showing that it is sometimes it’s engaged perfectly, and sometimes the front wheels won’t even spin over. Seems to me its probably switch trouble because when it does lock in it works fine any idea what my problem is? Thanks.

There is a good chance you can have a short somewhere along the route from the switch to the front differential, but I wouldn’t overlook the servo motor assembly. This is what engages the differential. These can take on water and condensation over the years so it might be best to check this out as well. Having a 10-year-old ATV will reveal things you wouldn’t think could happen. Check the wiring from the switch to the differential, and then if you are experienced enough pull the servomotor off and check into it as well.


From: tman
Fenton, MI
My 2003 arctic cat keeps get gas in crankcase. How do I fix it?
Well, I hate to be the bearer of bad news, T-man. The fact that gas is getting into the crankcase indicates some very worn piston rings. This is not an uncommon problem, and even the best of ATVs wear over long years of riding. This doesn’t really mean that it cannot be fixed, so get to your dealer and look into having the cylinder looked at closely. Chances are you may need to get the cylinder bored to a size over stock and then install new pistons and rings to cure the problem. Then get back out on the trail and get back to enjoying our sport!


From: Bryan
Saugerties, NY
Okay, I am considering buying a 2004 Suzuki LTZ400 and have been reading some posts about the sway bar bearings and a few other rear end problems, and I am just curious if what I am reading is true and if it is how fast do the bearings usually go?

I have owned several Suzuki LTZ400 ATVs over the years, and there are problems to watch for but a properly maintained machine will last forever. The swing arm design on this machine has had its issues in the past, but most of these problems have occurred under race conditions. The key to keeping the rear of this machine happy is easy. First, when washing this machine do NOT use a power washer directly on the bearing housing area or any areas that have bearings. It seems this may be the easiest way to get the mud and stuff off but you’re just forcing the dirt and mud deep into the bearings. Bearings in this machine are sealed but not totally perfect. They will wear more rapidly if you ride in muddy or sandy-wet conditions a lot. Just expect that. Also, many will blame the maker of the ATV for problems that occur when they themselves neglect to properly tighten or align the rear swinger housing or its components. Be sure to get yourself a genuine service manual for this machine and read the recommended service procedures for the quad. This will make you a happy rider and not a frustrated mechanic!


From: Bmeier1980
Viburnum, MO
I have a 2001 Polaris scrambler 50. My son can ride it for five minutes or so then it just dies like you have turned it off. We wait a few minutes and it will start up and go for another five minutes. It runs just fine when it is running. I put a new carb on, and changed the spark plug but it did not help. Can you please tell me what to do, im going crazy?

There are a couple of things that could be causing the problem here. First I would look for any kind of water or trash in the gas. If the gas can and tank check out OK, then you might look into the oil injection for this little beast. The reason I point you there is that if the oil has not been properly mixing with the gas you may have a set of worn out rings. When the engine is cold the compression is at its peak, and as it warms up the compression starts to loosen up a bit until it finally stalls the engine. Start there and let us know what you find.


From: Lou Schiess
Corfu, NY
I have a 99 Polaris explorer 400. The front shafts turn but the hubs do not lock in. How do they work?

The front end on these particular ATVs is a bit complicated, and I’m not sure I have enough pages here to explain it but I’ll try. The hubs on this model have what’s referred to as a hub coil. This assists in engaging the front wheel when the switch on the bars is tripped. There is also a clutch hub inside the strut housing that could be part of the problem. Why they make these things so complex is beyond explanation, but I would get a service manual for the quad and start with the front strut and wheel. This should explain it in better terms for you. Good luck.


From: Wally
Kimberly, WV
I have a 1985 Honda Recon 250. I am hearing a clunking-like noise in the rear end. What should I check for and how does it come apart? Also how much rear end grease does it take and what type?
Thanks, Wally

It’s our understanding that there were no Recon’s built in 1985 and actually no new models for that year. 1984 showed us that the TRX200, which was the first four-wheeled ATV by Honda, was followed by the famous 1986 TRX250R that reigned in ATV racing dominance for many years after.

My first suggestion would be to take the ATV to the nearest dealer and have them find out just what you’re working with so you can be sure of what manual you need. Then purchase a service manual on the ATV. These can be ordered through many dealers or directly from Honda. These manuals will give you detailed information that you would need to completely tear down the rear of your machine and what to look for when you get it apart. The manuals also give vital service intervals and specific items that may wear and need attention on a regular basis.


From: Mr. Chetwood
I have the digital display in my 2006 660 rhino. I would like to know what the digital displays mean. When I turn off the engine, after it is really warm, I see a quick display at about 9 o’clock; it is round and stays on for about one second. How can I check and test my overheat display? It does not come on when the key is turned to on or to start. Somebody else installed the display in my Rhino before I bought it. Is there a way to do a display test?
Thank you, Mr. Chetwood
The hardest part of this question is that I haven’t a clue what version of digital dash you have installed into the dash. The original 2006 dash only used dummy lights, and until I know which dash has been used in its place it would be vague at best to begin to describe what the dash will or will not tell you. I really need to know what year dash was adapted to your Rhino so I can give you a correct answer.


From: 400ex 2003
Rogersville, CANADA
In reference to article “Honda 440EX Big Bore Kit - Part 1”
Article URL: <A href="[ioID]F43FF13CD1784ECF8B7A42082AE67976 How do I take the timing chain sprocket holder off the old camshaft?

It may be easier to purchase a new cam sprocket holder rather than pressing the old one off. Besides, it needs to be installed in the correct orientation or the timing may be a challenge. To answer your question though, it has to be pressed off, and this is best left to the local machine shop or Honda Dealer. The new one is only around $22 bucks and is Honda part number: SKU: 14325-KV2-942 Cam Sprocket Flange

From: josh
Houston, TX
Where are the timing marks on a 2007 Polaris predator 500le?

Timing marks on the predator are found under a side cover plug on the left side or magneto side of the engine. There are two, one large and in the center of the cover and one other smaller located just above the large one. The large cover plug is removed to gain access to the crank nut that is used to spin the engine over with a socket wrench. The second is where you’ll actually see the timing mark or “T” in the flywheel. I’m assuming you’re having trouble with the running of your Predator, so be sure to check the fly wheel key as they are notorious for shredding these. You’ll need a service manual to get the parts reinstalled correctly and to time the machine, so go ahead and choke up the dough. It makes life a little easier.

Thanks again for all the great questions and keep them coming. Remember this is an all quad and side-by-side answer section, so don’t be afraid to ask! Newsletter
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