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Tools and partsBefore you start this project you will need to locate some parts from various places.
Preparation
I found the tack-weld removal bits to be almost impossible to find here in Maryland and ended up getting one from a Snap-On? tool salesman (read: expensive). The bit worked well at first but eventually dulled out and was too slow. The object with the bit is to find the little dimple on the flare mount against the body and drill it out. I eventually switched to using an air cut-off tool which made quick work of cutting out the tack-welds and left less to be sanded down after removing the flare mount. When I removed the metal flare mounts I found about a ton of mud and other crap stuck between the body and the metal flare which had caused a lot of rust. You should take care of any rust before proceeding.
Assembly
Once the ridge is removed, you can place the flare against the vehicle and size up where you want to install the flares. I used duct tape to hold the flares in place to measure up placement and while I marked the holes on the body for drilling. I started with the rear of the vehicle since most of the holes needed to hold the flare in place were on the inside of vehicle with easy access.
Those of you who are still using the stock Samurai rear bumper with attached side marker lights will have to cut the rear of the flares to fit around the plastic housing of the light. I have a Rocky Road Crawler bumper--which does not have attachments for side marker lights--so I just went to the auto parts store and bought two three-dollar trailer marker lights, screwed them in place and wired them in. This was very simple. Since the lights use the vehicle?s body as a ground you only have to hook up the hot wire. At this point I decided to cut away the excess body material hanging below the marker light to make more room for wheel articulation and a cleaner appearance.
![]() I opted to go with another set of rear Wrangler flares up front. Installation is very much the same as with the rear, but you will have to trim about five inches off the leading edge of the flare to make it look right, as you can see in the pictures. I had to use more self-tapping fender bolts on the front end because there are a few more areas that are hard to reach to install actual bolts and nuts than in the rear; especially on the passenger side of the vehicle. ImpressionsOnce you are all trimmed up, stand back and take a look at what you have done. (See the picture at the top of this story.) I am very happy with this installation. I am now 100% road legal and still have room to go with a wider tire. Total cost of the installation was about $100: $75 of which was spent on the second set of fender flares from a junkyard, $15 spent on a stupid tack-weld removal bit that I later trashed and $10 on fender bolts and washers. And of course the most precious: time to do the job. The hardest part in doing this was removing the old metal fender flares and fixing all the rust. Everything after that just falls in place to how you want to do it. On the trail the fenders prove their worth by not being ripped off by trees and left somewhere along the way. They are very flexible and give way easily. Just don?t catch a tree really good and rip the whole flare off, which will probably rip out the screws from the flimsy metal used in Zuks.
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