Warning: Improper or sloppy assembly of steering components can be extremely hazardous to your health, and the health of others. If you are in doubt about performing any of the procedures listed here, get experienced and/or professional help in undertaking this conversion.

Tools and parts

Socket drivers	Various size sockets
Socket driver extensions	Tie rod end remover
Petroworks' Kit	Hose for low-pressure return
Toyota tensioner assembly	Toyota power steering pump
Toyota power steering gear box with Pitman arm and tie rod end attached.	Toyota power steering reservoir
Grinder	Power steering fluid
Optional: new rubber steering disk

Preparation

Make sure you've got everything on hand that you need, especially if your Samurai is your only vehicle. It's gonna be real hard to get to the auto parts store if you find out you've forgotten something.

If your Samurai is lifted, you can accomplish all of this without the use of a jack or stands.

Remove the pulley from the Toyota power steering pump for easier mounting in the bracket from the kit.

Disassembly

Disconnect, remove and save the rubber steering disk (called the "joint rubber" in the Samurai manual) and its hardware. If yours is old, cracking or worn, this is a great time to replace it.

Remove and retain the bottom section of the hardware for the rubber disk from the steering box input shaft.

Loosen the alternator and remove the alternator belt.

If you have Suzuki factory air conditioning, bid it a fond goodbye and remove all the components from the left (driver's) side of the block.

Crawl under the car and prepare to stay awhile.

Separate the Pitman arm from the drag link using a tie rod end remover.

Remove the existing Suzuki steering box and Pitman arm.

Remove the existing drag link.

Now the fun part: remove the existing crank pulley. There are four small bolts holding this pulley in place, down inside, inserted through the center disk of the pulley. Do not remove the main crank bolt! Once the bolts are removed, you should be able to wiggle the pulley loose and pull it off. This is sometimes a real pain, as the bolts are hard to get to, and the pulley is sometimes stubborn.

Assembly

Install the new dual crank pulley from the kit. Be sure to mate the pulley properly (it's keyed) and then reinstall the bolts and torque to spec. (7.5-9.0 ft-lb/1.0-1.3 kg-m). The pulley bolts must be properly tightened, or you'll be really sorry later. If the pulley is loose, it will wobble and eventually destroy the keyway in the pulley. Worse yet, it'll also destroy the key on the crankshaft.

Make sure the point of attachment for the steering gear box on the frame is flat and free from ridges, rust and debris. You may have to use a grinder and remove some material here to make it as flat as possible. Prime and repaint the frame as necessary.

Install the power steering frame bracket from the kit and torque the fasteners down to 51-65 ft-lb/7-9 kg-m.

Install the Toyota power steering gear box with its attached Pitman arm and tie rod end. Torque to the same values as the frame bracket.

Install the new drag link.

Reinstall the bottom end of the rubber disk hardware on the new gear box input shaft.

Align the Pitman arm pointing straight ahead and the steering wheel to center.

Reassemble the rubber disk, reconnecting the steering shaft. You may need to adjust the position of the shaft components to get a proper fit.

Note: Use care in the following steps when mounting the brackets to the block. Since the block is aluminum, be careful not to over-torque and strip out the mounting holes.

Mount the power steering pump bracket and tensioner assembly to the left side of the block.

Install the power steering pump into the pump bracket. Install the pulley, also, if you've removed it.

Fill the gear box with power steering fluid.

Attach the high-pressure hose to the pump and gear box.

Add power steering fluid to the pump through the hole for the low pressure hose until filled.

Attach the pump end of the low pressure hose.

Install the reservoir bracket from the kit.

Mount the Toyota power steering reservoir to the new bracket.

Attach the low pressure hose from the pump to the reservoir. Attach the return line between the steering gear box and the reservoir.

Fill the reservoir with power steering fluid.

Replace the alternator belt on the rear-most groove on the crank pulley and the alternator pulley and tension the belt as usual.

Loosen the tensioner assembly's idler pulley center bolt and crank the adjuster to allow you to place the power steering belt over the crank pulley front groove, the idler pulley and the power steering pump pulley.

Adjust the idler pulley for proper tension on the belt, then tighten the idler pulley bolt.

Re-center the steering wheel, make sure the Pitman arm points straight ahead and center the front wheels.

Install the passenger end of the new drag link. Adjust the drag link to allow it to mate up with the Pitman arm, lock the adjusting nuts down and connect the tie rod end on the Toyota Pitman arm to the drag link. Be sure to install the cotter-pin in the castellated nut!

Double-check the level in the power steering fluid reservoir, then start the engine and crank the steering wheel back and forth. When the pump and gear box fill with fluid and begin operating you'll feel the steering suddenly ease up and the pump should quit being noisy. If you don't get a response pretty quickly, stop the engine and check to make sure the reservoir hasn't been sucked dry or that there isn't a serious leak somewhere. Restart the engine and crank the wheel, stopping the engine and double-checking fluid levels as necessary until you get a response.

Recheck for proper function of the steering, absence of binding and noise, and proper alignment of the front wheels.

Warning: Recheck for proper assembly and proper torque of all fasteners!

If the wheels are properly aligned and the steering wheel isn't centered when the wheels are pointing straight ahead, you'll need to adjust the steering wheel position as follows:

• Remove the steering wheel center cover.
• Loosen (but don't remove completely) the steering wheel nut, and wiggle/pull the wheel to pop it loose.
• Remove the nut completely and pull the wheel completely off.
• Reposition the steering wheel to center and press it down into position.
• Replace and retighten the steering wheel nut.
• Replace the center cover.

Warning: Improper assembly or sloppy assembly of steering components can be extremely hazardous to your health, and the health of others. If you are in doubt about any of this procedure having been correctly accomplished, get experienced and/or professional help in correcting the assembly beforedriving the vehicle.

That's it!

Troubleshooting Tip

If you get the system assembled and you've got a continuing problem with power steering fluid being forced out of the reservoir via the cap, then you most likely have a leak on the low pressure side of the system that's causing air to be sucked into the system. This results in the power steering fluid foaming and being forced out.

The most likely culprit is a dead o-ring under the metal plate and hose fitting that attaches the low pressure hose to the pump on the rear housing of the pump. You can replace just this o-ring or you can get a pump rebuild kit available that provides all the o-rings and seals necessary to rebuild the pump. It's Gates part number 35181.