I thought Samurais were supposed to have this loose, sloppy shifter. Every one I've ever been in had it.
Turns out it's not a “standard feature”. Gary Munck of Petroworks
Off-Road Products clued me in to this, and the fix
costs only a couple of bucks (or less, if you have all the tools
you need and a dollop of grease). The necessary part itself costs only
just over a dollar if ordered from Petroworks and the result is a shifter
that moves and feels like it should.
Preparation
What you'll need:
10mm socket and handle, or box-end or open-end wrench (depending on
the socket wrench, you may also need a short extension)
12mm box-end or open-end wrench
Molybdenum disulfide grease
New shift lever locating bolt (a special 12mm bolt
with a round pin about one half inch long protruding from the
“point” end)
Rags
Disassembly
Remove front carpet, if necessary.
Place the gear shift lever in the “neutral” position.
Using the 10mm socket, remove the four bolts holding the frame
retaining the rectangular interior gear shift lever boot (Suzuki calls
this “boot No. 2” in the manual).
Remove the gear shift lever knob.
Work the frame off and lift the frame up and off the gear shift
lever.
Pull “boot No. 2” up and off the gear shift lever.
Pull the round gear shift lever case boot (Suzuki calls this “boot
No. 1” in the manual) up the gear shift lever to allow access to the
gear shift lever case cover bolts.
Use the 10mm socket to remove the three bolts holding the gear shift
lever case cover.
Pull the gear shift lever straight up out of the case, along with
“boot No. 1” and the gear shift lever case cover.
Using a 12mm wrench, remove the gear shift lever locating bolt. It
is on the back (towards the rear of the vehicle) of the gear shift
lever case. Save the lock washer!
Locate the loose gear shift lever locating bolt broken end,
approximately one half inch long and 1/8 inch diameter, lying in the
bottom of the gear shift lever case. It will not have fallen far. Make
sure to find the broken pin and fish it out by whatever means
necessary, so that it doesn't later end up down in the guts of your
transmission.
Note: Mine happened to be still
protruding from the hole in which it was originally inserted, and I
couldn't remove it by hand, because it had broken about one and a half
threads back. I ultimately forced it out of the hole (and into the gear
shift lever case) by cranking a longer 12mm bolt into the hole from
which I had originally removed the broken gear shift lever locating
bolt.
Installing the new gear shift lever
locating bolt
Place the lock washer saved in step 7 above over the new gear shift
lever locating bolt. Do not clean the blue compound off the threads!
Crank the new bolt in snugly. (10.5-14 lb-ft.) The gear
shift lever case is aluminum so don't over-torque!
Clean out slopped grease and any dirt and grime from the parts
you've removed.
Reassembly
Lightly lube the bottom end of the gear shift lever.
Make sure the "flat" portion faces “up” on the broad
heads of the two pins you can see on the left and right inside walls
of the gear shift lever case.
Align the notch in the back of the bottom of the gear shift lever
with the new gear shift lever locating pin, and press the gear shift
lever straight down into the gear shift lever case. You should feel
the lever “click” into place.
Slide the gear shift lever case cover down onto the top of the gear
shift lever case and align the holes.
Reinstall the three gear shift lever case cover bolts. Torque to 3-5
lb-ft. Once again, the gear shift lever case is made of
aluminum! Be careful not to over-torque!
Slide “boot No. 1” down over the top of the gear shift lever
case.
Place “boot No. 2” over the end of the gear shift lever and
slide it down.
Align the holes in “boot No. 2” with the holes in the
transmission tunnel and press the boot down firmly.
Slide the retaining frame down over the gear shift lever and “boot
No. 2” and align the holes with the holes in “boot No. 2” and
the transmission tunnel.
Reinstall the four retaining bolts for the frame and boot and snug
them down.
Replace front carpet, if necessary.
Done! Enjoy your newly “tightened” shifter. Learn to shift all over
again!
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