Then I can better recognize the little pings and kerchunks when it doesn't sound right. Make sense? So I did have to do a little reading up on why something as simple as an air filter is the first stop on this journey to "cool".

A Chick's Guide to Air Filter Technology

With simple maintenance, it's good for 50,000 miles instead of 10,000.

Even more so with foam filters. So it bounces around and is slowed considerably before it even reaches the engine. K&N's idea was to straighten out this path before moving the air on. They do this by providing a final step of a fine wire mesh outside the filter. Seems too simple, but it apparently works since it delivers 50% more air than similar paper filters, per square inch.

A Man's Guide to Air Filter Technology

Then I had to come home and understand WHAT I had just seen. Seemed too awesome to be so simple.

Hookin' Her Up

He did let me know that it was actually okay my tires were bald - larger diameter tires, especially off-road tires with aggressive tread, tend to "hop" on the dyno, and you'll see serious spikes in the computer reading. He didn't seem concerned that it would hop completely off the rollers and drive through a wall, but rather that his data wouldn't be accurate. What a trooper. Chevrolet boasts 285 horses at 5,200 RPM for the 1998 Tahoe; more conservative numbers are estimated by CarPoint.com - 255 horsepower at 4,600 RPM, and torque 330 at 2,800; (Ok, I admit I have no idea what these second numbers exactly measure or mean, but even I know bigger is better!) These numbers are at the flywheel, so we expected we'd lose quite a bit when measuring the actual usable power delivered to the rear wheels. The dyno on my baby with 42,000 miles on it confirmed less than stellar power available -- our initial run showed horsepower peaking at 189 at 4,700 RPM. Yawn.

Installation of FIPK

It will ride directly on top of these bolts so the padding is important. It's a very inconspicuous piece of grey foam, easily mistaken for packing, so key your eyes open when dumping the parts out of the bag. 34 steps, 1 hour total labor, you are done.

Things the Directions Don't Tell You

• 
• The mass air adapter is shown in the directions as black rubber; in our kit, it was made of red silicon rubber, four layers with imbedded cloth material. Dave says they weren't happy with the reliability of the rubber, and the silicon design is showing to hold up much better. So don't go looking for a black one if yours is red.

  

• Directions show putting the rubber trim seal on after the box is installed onto the firewall - Dave did it while it was still sitting on the workbench, so he could trim and fit it better. Suggest you do the same - you will be removing about 5" of material, and several snips so you get good 90 degree corners.

Things the Directions DO Tell You

• You are directed to disconnect your battery, however, they do point out pro's and con's that you should consider. If you disconnect, it will allow your computer to adjust and reset to your new equipment sooner, but you may lose programming of the auto alarm on the stereo system, or something. Accurate performance was more important to us than what station our radio was on, so we went for it.

  Turned out it didn't screw up our radio anyway. You may have additional concerns if you have a security system - check that you know how to deactivate and reactivate before you disconnect your battery.

• Because the new box bolts to the firewall of the engine compartment, the directions state at the top it is NOT compatible with a body lift. I suppose you may be able to fabricate and customize your way around this; we will simply be looking for a suspension lift instead of a body lift to keep this project as straight-forward as possible.

The "After" Story

What's Next?