Next you can take the axle assemblies down to a shop to have the bearing retainers, and bearing pressed off (this process requires a SST) Since I was doing this on a Sunday most shops were closed, but I found one. The only problem was that the shop owner did not know how to do it. If you have a press and a slide hammer you could do this yourself. First you need to take off the snap ring that is up against the bearing retainer. Then cut off the bearing retainer, which is a major PITA.

Once this was done I used a 10lb slide hammer (attached to the lug nut bolts) and I attached the axle assembly on a spare axle housing. Then i put the housing in a vise, and used the slide hammer to pull the axle out of the brake assembly.

Once you get the bearing off you can clean the brake backing plate and remove the rubber seal (the seal is on the brake side of the backing plate) and Replace it with a new one [image 14]. Next I pressed on the new bearing. Then I pressed the axle onto the brake backing plate. Next I pressed the bearing retainer onto the axle. Make sure the axle seats all the way onto the axle. (This whole process to me 5 hours to do, but once I got the hang of it, it was easier.) After all this is done you need to remove and replace the axle housing seals. With both axles out you might want to replace the 3rd member gasket. (Mine was leaking). Make sure you remove all of the old gasket before replacing it with a new one. With the axle housing seals done, you can slide the axle assembly on, try to keep the pressure of the axle off of the seal as not to distort the new seal. Then put the four bolts back on that hold on the axle assembly. Replace the pin for the e-brake and screw the brake line back on. Then bleed the brakes. Now take the truck for a test drive to make sure everything works.

10mm box end wrench 12, 14mm socket Snap ring pliers Parts needed, Inner and outer rear axle seals, Double that order for both sides.