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Rust Fix Getting rid of that cancerToyota Land Cruiser - The Ultimate 4WD

Source: Toyota Land Crusier at Off-Road.com
Toyota Land Cruiser
Introduction
This is the first of many articles on the rebuilding of a new FJ40. I have always wanted an early FJ40, as it was in a 40 that I had my first off roading experience. So, after 5 months of searching I finally found one. Cheap, full of rust, and not running very well. The cruiser has a Chevy 327 mated to the stock trany and transfer case. It has seen better days, but I hope to make it trail ready again within the next year. So, while waiting for parts to arrive, I decided to take care of some of the rust problems.
 

 

Getting rid of the cancer

   Starting with the only piece that I could unbolt, I started removing all the bolts that hold on the front grill. Every bolt I tried to remove, broke. yep, rust sucks. Once I got the grill removed, and into my shop, I started work on it.
 
 

Tools needed to do this job :

 

 

  • Welder
    Angle grinder with sanding disk, and a cutting disk
    Tools to remove the grill
  • Paint
  • Bending brake
 
It Starts
 
 
   Once I got the front grill off I saw just how bad the rust was. There was a hole in the lower part, and the bottom lip had expanded from 1/8" to over 3/4" thick. Rust is a bad thing. With this much rust, I decided to just cut the whole bottom and front lip off. I started with a sheet of 1/16" thick sheet metal. I used my homemade brake to put a 90deg bend in it (My homemade brake did not work as well as i though it would, so out came the hammer to help make it a 90g angle.)

  

 
 With this new piece, I cut it to fit the opening that I cut in the grill. Make sure you cut the new piece so it fits perfect. Remember, measure twice, and cut once. Start by spot welding the new piece all the way around. Once its secure, start doing 1/2" stitch welds every 5 inches or so. You only do the 1/2" stitch welds at this time, as if you do any more, you risk warping the sheet metal. (see picture below left)
 
 Once you have the piece welded all the way across , you can brake out the sanding disk. I used a sanding disk attachment to my 4.5" angle grinder. When sanding, don't let it sit too long, as you can heat up the metal too much, and it will warp. So, take your time, and slowly grind the welds away. (see picture below right) Looks nice, eh? :-)

 

Once you get all the welds sanded down, its time to paint. If you did a good job welding and fabing, you will not need filler. I decided to not use filler on mine, as I will be offroading the FJ40 hard, and I want the body to be all steel and no bondo.

After removing all the paint off the rest of the grill I painted it with some rust prohibiting primer. 3 coats of primer then I painted it hunter green. All painting was done with spray cans, as I don't have access to any professional spray equipment.

Almost new looking Front Grill
 
 
 With a new coat of paint, the front grill came out very nice. Not bad for my first time welding sheet metal. There are many more rust holes in the FJ40 and I will tackle them the same way. Once you do one, they get easier and easer as you go on.

 

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