How To: Bronco TTB Front End Alignment

Jul. 16, 1998 By James Oxley

How To: Bronco TTB Front End Alignment


You want to start by getting yourself a decent camber gauge and toe in/out gauge. Both can be had from J.C. Whitney.
  • J.C. Whitney
  • Camber/Caster gauge ..14KE5703Y, 1/12 degree accuracy, $89.99
  • ..........................................15KE0617U, 1/8 degree accuracy, $59.95
  • Toe In/Out gauge ........... 19KE2207Y, 1/32 inch increments, $32.99
Using a relatively level garage floor, put two equal height sockets on the floor at the exact spot your front tires are going to end up (center of tire). Using a straight edge and level, build up respective side with newspaper until level is , well, level. If your just checking alignment, pull Bronco onto spot just measured. Measure the camber. I always set it at zero due to the wild enough camber swings inherent in the TTB (you can set it to factory spec or whatever you want). No need to exaggerate the problem with the static setting, IMO. The manual gives a pretty hefty tolerance, but zero always worked and made sense to me. If camber is out, I recommend going for the full alignment. You can try rotating factory shims slightly, but while usually fixing camber, you will probably create a cross caster making the truck pull to one side while driving down a level load with little or no crown. You should also do a quick check on toe, to make sure it is in the ballpark (± ¼ inch). It can be adjusted perfect later on. Shim What I recommend doing is getting 2, 2.0 degree shims (from Specialty Products (800) 525-6505, with large square head for ease of adjustment) and installing them. I use a very large adjustable wrench to adjust shims once installed. The shims on TTB will change camber AND caster at the same time when rotated. Getting factory shims out may be quite a project, especially on older trucks. Set camber at zero for both sides, ensuring bottom of upper ball joints are pointing back. This will give you the most caster you can get on both sides (good for tracking).
Chances are after installing 2.0 degree shims, you will have a truck that pulls to one side or the other. Again ensure your testing road is level with no crown in the road. If the roads in your area have a large crown, you may want to test on this type of road to make sure you account for it in your alignment settings. You will need to reduce the caster on the opposite side of the way the truck is pulling. Replace 2.0 degree shim with 1.75 degree shim and re-align to zero camber (or whatever camber you have chosen to use). Drive truck and it should pull less than before, or if your lucky, not at all. If it still pulls, repeat procedure until you get a small enough shim on the side opposite pull to cancel pull. If you get down to zero, start going back up in shim degree, but make sure bottom of upper ball joint is facing forward instead of rearward. At this point, measure toe again and adjust. Just a note to say this procedure is not for the impatient. It may take many tries and much experimentation to get it right. The payback is that your truck will track perfectly straight and your tires will not wear from camber. Even aligning on a rack can many times leave you with a truck that still pulls from incorrect caster. That is why I do not recommend measuring caster. Even if it measures identical on both sides of truck, the truck may still pull. This was my main problem and why I eventually started doing alignments myself. Be patient and do it over several days. Caster Camber Toe In/out Click on any image for a larger drawing and explanation of topic. Specialty Products Company - Sleeve (shim) Part #'s degree .............. Part # 0.25 ................... 23241 0.50 ................... 23242 0.75 ................... 23243 1.00 ................... 23244 1.25 ................... 23245 1.50 ................... 23246 1.75 ................... 23247 2.00 ................... 23248 Send Questions or Comments To: James Oxley


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