The stock RTN1000 as it came out of the box. Click for full size image	RTN1000 with optional arbor support and arbor. Click for full size image
Paperwork that is included with the notcher.   Click for full size image	Close up of the instruction sheet, sorry its sideways. Click for full size image

Right out of the box you notice the quality of the piece, the main body and mounting foot are made of nicely anodized aircraft grade aluminum. All hardware is grade eight. The T-handle and arbor are made from hardened polished steel.  The tube clamp is V notched to automatically center your tube.  The angle marks on the built in protractor are laser engraved from 0 to 60 degrees in one degree increments  for easy trouble free setting, no stickers or painted on marks to fade or fall off here.   

 

Aircraft grade aluminum main body and mounting foot. Click for full size picture	Hardened polished steel arbor (with optional large arbor on right) Click for full size image
V-notched tube clamp and polished T handle.   Click for full size image	Laser engraved 0-60 degree protractor. Click for full size image

On the unit we obtained, we had a couple of optional parts included because we were planning on notching mostly 1.5" to 2" tubing.   They offer a Torrington Needle Bearing Arbor support, and a Large Thread Arbor, just for the large size hole saws.  (usually from 1.25" up to 2")

 

Large arbor and Torrigton bearing arbor support Click for full size image

Close up of the bearing inside the arbor support. Click for full size image

The included Arbor is threaded for 1/2" x 20 threads and has a screw on adapter for 5/8" x 18 threads that the larger hole saws use. The Torrington Needle Bearing Arbor support does offer a longer life than the stock bronze bushings, but it makes the joint cuts about 1/1000 of an inch less accurate.  (hmm, I don't know about you, but I can't see quite that good, nice to know the tool can make cuts that accurate though).

The mounting foot on the RTN1000 allows you to bolt it down to just about anything flat, or clamp it in a vise (with some padding to keep from destroying that fine anodizing of course).  It also allows you to pivot the tool for much greater flexibility when needed, so that you can notch that oddly bent or awkward piece of tube.  These shots show the RTN1000 installed on a stand that I quickly fabbed up.  

 

Set up and ready to go, don't make fun of my dirty drill. Click for full size image

Half way through a piece of 2" thin walled tube.   Click for full size image

Here are a few shots of pieces of tube that I notched with the RTN1000, as well as what some joints look like with and without notching.  As you can tell, the notched joint makes for much better contact and stronger easier welds to be made.  We used Lennox brand hole saws for the cuts we made and they have not slowed down a bit after quite a few notches cut.  Take your time and feed the saw into the metal nice and easy.  On thicker tube, use a little cutting oil to keep the saw teeth cool.  This will make them last much longer.  Also always wear safety glasses, the tool can send metal shavings flying all over as its cutting.  

 

2", 1.5" and 1" tube all notched and ready to go. Click for full size image	1" thick wall DOM tube notched to attach to 1.5"tube. Click for full size image
2" thin wall tube notched to attach to another piece of 2". Click for full size image	No notching, this would not make for a very strong joint. Click for full size image

We were very  pleased with the performance of the RTN1000, if you need to do a good bit of tube joints we would highly recommend the RTN1000 from Joint Jigger as a great tool for the job, give them a shot, you wont be disappointed.

Any questions or comments regarding this article, please feel free to email me:

Glenn

depdog@off-road.com

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