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Rocker Panel ProtectionRocker Panel Protection

Eric Stegall
Toyota Land Crusier at Off-Road.com

Stock running boards

Original rocker panel protection

3" below body support

Cut line template

3" cut off rockers

Marking fender cut line

Fender cut line

Marking and drilling holes

Notched and bent for body contour

Fender cut

New rocker panel protection with 3" of more ground clearance
 
The factory running boards on my Cruiser served well in the scheme of things.  They made it easy to climb into the captain's chair of the old beast. And prettiest of all, they kept the road tar and trail sludge from finding its way onto the paint job.

But as the good word goes: "Running boards don't work well when you go up against the rocks of the Rubicon." And with my Cruiser's first trip to the 'Con on the calendar, I decided the running boards were coming off. Therefor, rocker panels were in order. 

The first set of rocker panels I designed bolted onto the tub, making use of the running board's factory. The reason being, I wanted both of them to be interchangeable with one another.

I drilled five mounting holes in 3" x 2" x 1/4" angle iron, and cut them to match the angle of the font fender. With a quick shot of black spray paint, and bolted them to the Cruiser, using 3/8" bolts. I mounted the 3" section angle iron against the body and the 2" section beneath the tub.

This worked well for the Cruiser's first two trips to Rubicon. But after some severe boulder-bashing on the trail, the rocker panels bent inward towards the tub. This was unacceptable, hence, the painful decision to take the jig saw to the tub. 

Now, this may have been an excruciating thought to fathom, but it afforded the Cruiser an additional three inches of ground clearance.   No rock crawler in his right mind could turn down an additional three inches of ground clearance.

So, onward I went, my objective to cut clear up to the body mounts.  I flipped the rocker panels around 180 degrees and clamped them to the tub using C-clamps.  With the 3" side lined up to the bottom of the rocker panel, I marked a line with a felt tip pen. 

With the line drawn, I removed the rocker panel. Then I sat there to regain my senses. I found it difficult to hack away what Toyota once considered a good idea, three inches of clearance-robbing sheet metal.

I took a last gasp of air, fired-up the jig saw and did what every rock crawler in my shoes would have done, rid my rig of the waste. 

After doing justice to the rocker panel, I focused my efforts toward trimming the fenders. This way, the fenders would also be further from a rock's wrath.  I taped a 30-60-90 triangle to the front fender and drew a line using the 60 degree from vertical edge.

I removed all components and wires attached to the fender, then the fender (it is much easier to trim when it is removed). I used a 3" pneumatic tool to cut the fenders and round-out the edges. I then reinstalled the fenders.

For fender protection, I commandeered two long pieces of 2 1/2 x 2 1/2 x 1/4" angle iron.  I cut the front of each piece at an angle to match the contour of the front fenders.  I clamped them to the rocker panels for a test fit and did some minor body trimming for that perfect fit.  I marked and drilled six (of seven total)  3/8"  holes.  I did not drill the seventh hole yet because Cruiser bodies bend a few degrees after the door seam.

I wanted a clean look, so I cut a notch out of the bottom of the angle iron and bent it to the contour of the body. I then welded the notch back together and drilled the last mounting hole.

Making your own set of rocker panels comes with its rewards. You can make them the way you want them. I've seen other rocker panels that only extended to the rear a bit past the body seam. These off-the-shelfers did not bend to the contour of the Cruiser. 

The benefits of my second set of rocker panels were many. Here are a few highlights:

• Three-inch gain in ground clearance.   
• Sleeker look.

• Beefier, rock ready rocker panels.
• Body supports are a better mounting surface.

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