Project Used: Camoplast Track Install

With Some Much Needed Traction - Our Yamaha VMAX Was Transformed!

Jan. 01, 2004 By Jim Sprouse
Okay, Okay, we are finally getting around to changing the track on our Project Used Yamaha V-Max 700 XTC. We know that we have been saying that we were going to replace it for over a year, but we were held up by a certain track manufacturer that kept promising us a track that never showed up. So, after a year of waiting we turned to the folks at Camoplast. They were more than willing to help us out. Camoplast sent us their new 1" trail performance track that is very aggressive and perfect for the performance trail rider.. You'll hear more about the track itself in a later article.
This is a guide to changing a track. Remember that this is just the basics and this procedure was done on the Yamaha If you don't have a good understanding of the mechanics of the machine or your not sure about doing this find a friend that has done a track replacement. You can get yourself in a jam!! What we are telling you here is the basic procedure. Each make and model is different. You just need some basic hand tools, a warm and well-lit space, and time. This is a job that you will need a buddy for help. Here we go - remember that this is just a guideline and using a service manual for your sled is always best. If you doubt any of your abilities, let a dealer do the work.
  1. Get the sled off the ground safely. A sled lift will work for now, we use the REC-LIFT stand, but later you are going to have to get the rear of the sled up higher.
  2. Drain the chain case plug if you have one and drain the oil. Remove the cover the drain the oil if you dont have one. There is usually some kind of plug under the chain case in belly pan to get the oil out of the belly pan. A cut-off 2-liter soda bottle works well to catch the old oil.
  3. Remove the muffler from the sled.
  4. Replace the drain plug now so you don't forget later.

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    In a tight work area, a lift can make all the difference. In a part of the barn where space is a bit limited, we can work with ease with a REC LIFT.
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    You ask - Why are we replacing the track on a low mileage seld? Simple, it was abused by its previous owner and was damaged beyond repair. Missing studs, torn lugs and HOLES in the track made it a hazzrd to our riders.
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  5. Loosen the track and rear axle.
  6. (Yamaha Only) Loosen up the bolts on the transfer rods not the bolts that mount the transfer rods to the suspension rail. On a Yamaha, this will save you a lot of trouble when you reinstall the suspension and will help you line up the rear suspension arm .
  7. Remove the suspension bolts on the tunnel. And remove the rear suspension. NOTE: It may be necessary to remove the secondary clutch and the belt. On some models.
  8. Remove the speedometer housing.
  9. Take the chain case cover off. Be careful not to rip the gasket.
  10. Loosen the chain tensioner. Loosen the locking nut slightly and back out the bolt itself. This will give you a rough idea of where to start when you reinstall the tensioner.
  11. Remove the bolt in lower gear, then the gear and chain. There may be some spacers and shims so be careful to note them.

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    The muffler and chaincase cover are removed in this image. Try to wipe up as much opil as possible from the belly pan. It'll only make a huge mess for you to deal with the next time you work on the sled.
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    Here's a close up of the removed chaincase. You can also notice the hole in the bottom of the belly pan where the oil with drain from. The oil looks pretty mucky and made us wonder when it was last changed. We recommend you change it after every season regarless of how little you ride.
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  12. Remove the top gear nut and then the gear.
  13. Remove the brake caliper and parking brake if necessary.
  14. Remove the chain case for the sled's tunnel.
  15. Now get the sled rear end up as high as possible. A come-along works great. Remember to be safety conscious because you are going to be under there.
  16. Remove set screws in the drive shaft that hold the bearing in the speedometer housing in place.
  17. Remove the drive shaft. Sometimes they are a very tight fit. Just keep at it and usually it will come right out.

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    Its a bit tight when you remove the speedometer housing over the drive shaft. You can tell from the dirt in the bellypan that this sled was never cleaned thouroughly. We've take care of all that since this work..
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    Remove the set screw in the drive shaft. Once you have the set screws all out, you can start to work the drive shaft off the sled. It might take a bit of work, but it will come out for you.
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  18. Pull out the old track. Here are a couple of notes:
    A. If the track is in really bad shape, you can cut it with a sheet rock knife in the beginning and get it out of your way.
    B. If the track is decent, save it. It is worth some money. It can be sold at a swap meet or place an ad in the local paper. There are always people looking for a good deal on a used track.
  19. Now it is time to install the new track. Before installing any parts, inspect them closely for any wear. If they are worn, this is the time to replace them. Also, I like to use Blue Loctite to hold all the bolts securely in place. There is a lot of vibration transferred throughout the sled.
  20. Place the drive shaft inside the track. Tracks are directional. The arrow on the track must face the direction of rotation.
  21. Put the drive shaft up in place. This may be tricky with the weight of the track.
  22. Reassemble the speedometer housing. If you have trouble getting the speedometer drive to line up, take off the end of the cable at the speedometer and turn the inner cable and it will fall right into place.
  23. Reinstall the secondary clutch.
  24. Reassemble the chain case just like you took it apart.
  25. Check the chain tension. Refer to the manual if necessary.
  26. Reinstall the cover and gasket.
  27. Fill with chain case with oil designed for chain cases only. We use and like the Spectro synthetic chain case oil.
  28. Place the brake caliper and parking brake assemblies in place and tighten up.
  29. Re-install the muffler.

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    With the drive axle removed, you can inspect it for damage. Hopefully, you wont have it out of the sled for a long time.
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    Once your skid frame is removed, this is a good time to thoroughly clean and grease all the moving parts of the skid. Also, inspect EVERYTHING for broken or worn parts. Their alot easier to replace with the skid off the sled.
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  30. Re-install the rear suspension. Inspect it carefully before installation. Check all the bearings and cross shafts and idler wheels at this point because it is so much easier now with the rear suspension out. It is a good idea to adjust it if you need to and grease it while it is out of the machine. This can be tricky and you will really need someone to help you line it up.
  31. Set the rear suspension in place and get the mounting bolts in place. No need to torque them down at this point because it maybe a pain just to line up the suspension arms.
  32. Once everything is lined up and in place go ahead and tighten all mounting bolts. You should find out the torque specs and torque them to the correct spec.
  33. Tighten up the transfer rods if equipped.
  34. Adjust the track tension.
  35. Tighten the rear axle.
  36. Check everything over to make sure you didn't miss anything.
  37. Reinstall the drive belt.
  38. Run the sled on the stand to check the alignment of the track.
  39. After riding the sled for a while, check the track tension because it is going to stretch some. It is also a good idea to get some miles on a new track before studding it.
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Just to show the old next to the new. This was one beat to death track and was LONG due for replacement.
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Here's one of the best tracks right before being instaled on our project sled. Other than the new Ripsaw, the Trail Performance track is hard to beat. The 1" lug is perfect for the VMAX and the 1.25" Ripsaw would've had fit issues on our sled.
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Thirty-none steps! We broke everything down as mush as possible to make this as granular as possible, but its still a tough job. Just remember that this is a guideline. Every sled is different. Refer to a manual if necessary or your dealer. It is also a good idea to make notes as you go along. It is not a hard job but it is time consuming and a buddy's help is necessary for some of the heavier parts and aligning things.
Camoplast Traction Group
2144, rue King Ouest
Bureau 110, Sherbrooke (Qu?bec)
J1J 2E8 Canada
Tel: (819) 823-1777
Fax: (819) 823-8772
snowmobiletracks@camoplast.com
www.Camoplast.com

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