Toy4x4 Digest Thu, 3 Apr 97 00:30:02 (HST) Volume 1 : Issue 118 Today's Topics: '88 4Runner Clutch (6 msgs) 2.8 Diesel Turbo Specs (3 msgs) 83 overheating BFG AT's Bio (2 msgs) Camper Shells (2 msgs) Detroit Lockers (2 msgs) Diff Breathers Downey/Rancho 10" travel lift (2 msgs) Driveshaft llube driveshaft mods Glass shell Horn and Computer Chip (3 msgs) lift springs like anybody cares about this but me magnet ? (3 msgs) NEED AUSSIE SHAKLES FOR 85 TOY P'UP Nerf bars None Oil Pressure Omni-Pak vs Omni Team (2 msgs) parts on 22RET (large white plastic screw) Parts on a 22RET Pro-Comp Lift (3 msgs) Recommendations on Nerf Bars (5 msgs) Redline MTL Remote Oil Filter Cover remove Shifts hard Shotguns was Re: Subwoofers.... Speedo woes (2 msgs) stereo shiite stereo speakers Subwoofers.... (2 msgs) Suspension Travel (2 msgs) Temperature gauge torque wrench torque wrenches Toy4x4 Digest Toy4x4 Digest V1 #117 Trading Turbo AT for 5 Speed What Torque Wrench to Buy? (2 msgs) - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - --- Toyota 4x4 Mailing List (Toy4x4) --- ** Sponsored by OFF-ROAD.com, The Off-Road Center of the 'Net! ** ** Visit our WWW Page -- "http://www.off-road.com" ** ** TLCA Web Page -- "http://www.tlca.org" ** To post to list: Toy4x4@tlca.org Administrative matters (sign up, unsubscribe, mail problems, etc): Toy4x4-request@tlca.org Digest back issues are available at: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toy4x4/toy4x4_digest.html ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 02 Apr 1997 21:02:51 +0000 From: sbever@jeffnet.org Subject: '88 4Runner Clutch To: Toy4x4@tlca.org, albr9619@uidaho.edu > On Mon, 31 Mar 1997 sbever@jeffnet.org wrote: > > > Any tips on replacing a clutch for a '88 4Runner and recommendations > > for a clutch disc, pressure plate, and t/o bearing? Jonothan Wrote: > If this is your original clutch, you might want to just go with another > stock clutch. Really, if a stock one lasts you more than 100,000 it's > plenty stout enough for the job. (IMO) I agree. But Toyota tells me that they only stock Toyota rebuilt clutch kits for $180! A local shop sells ASCO clutch kits for $80 and claim they are OEM. Anyone have any knowledge of this? Also, Schucks sells Ztreeter clutches with a lifetime warranty for $112. Worth it or a waste of time and money? Thanks again, Scott ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 02 Apr 1997 21:19:00 +0000 From: sbever@jeffnet.org Subject: '88 4Runner Clutch To: toy4x4@tlca.org, Jack Alford Jack Wrote: > I find it much easier to get about ~30" of extensions, Yes ~30". that puts > the extensions just beyond the tail of the transfer case where you > can rest the extensions on the tfercase once you have dropped it a bit > so that you can reach all of the bolt heads easily. then just crank > away with a 1/2" breaker bar and it's quick and easy. How do you support the motor while you lower the tcase before (and after) unbolting it? >Leave the tcase bolted to > the tranny too. No need to seperate them if you're gonna get a tranny > jack which I HIGHLY recommend. > What do you think of the floor jack tranny attachment? It only rotates left and right unlike a tranny jack which rotates fore and aft as well. Also only costs $39. I do need a tranny jack for my Cruiser, as I have to change fore/aft angles as I drop it to avoid the rear frame crossmember. How bout with the 4runner? Thanks again, Scott ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 02 Apr 1997 21:53:47 +0000 From: sbever@jeffnet.org Subject: '88 4Runner Clutch To: Toy4x4@tlca.org, Earle Rother > Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 09:43:17 -0800 > From: > Subject: > To: > > Scott Wrote: > > Any tips on replacing a clutch for a '88 4Runner and recommendations > > for a clutch disc, pressure plate, and t/o bearing? Earle Wrote: > I would go with the stock clutch - they last a long time and may not cost > you as much as the aftermarket ones. I agree. But Toyota tells me that they only stock Toyota rebuilt clutch kits for $180; they can order a new one for more $! A local shop sells ASCO clutch kits for $80 and claim they are OEM. Anyone have any knowledge of this? Also, Schucks sells Ztreeter clutches with a lifetime warranty for $112. Worth it or a waste of time and money? > If you have any questions I have the Toyota shop manuals. How did you pull the pilot bearing; slide hammer? Thanks again, Scott ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 2 Apr 1997 22:05:07 -0800 (PST) From: Jonathan Albrecht Subject: '88 4Runner Clutch To: Toy4x4@tlca.org On Wed, 2 Apr 1997 sbever@jeffnet.org wrote: > How do you support the motor while you lower the tcase before (and > after) unbolting it? I use a big chunk of wood on top of the toyota bottle jack. Seems to work okay. > What do you think of the floor jack tranny attachment? It only > rotates left and right unlike a tranny jack which rotates fore and aft > as well. Also only costs $39. Depends upon the jack that it's going on top of. Most regular floor jacks aren't real wide. I dunno, I did my tranny using just a regular costco floor jack. I guess it's nice having a jack that can go really low, so that you can slide the tranny out from underneath ontop of the jack. (my jack was not like this.) I had to lift mine off (which wasn't too big of a problem) but putting it back on...oh man that was hard. Took four people (three underneath, and me up top using a 2x4 with my tow rope wrapped around it for a makeshift hoist), and even then it was a pain. > I do need a tranny jack for my Cruiser, as I have to change fore/aft > angles as I drop it to avoid the rear frame crossmember. How bout > with the 4runner? Didn't notice that problem on my p/u. Bigest problem was getting the tranny level (left to right) with the engine. Also was hard pivoting it for/aft too. Jonathan Albrecht albr9619@uidaho.edu http://www.uidaho.edu/~albr9619/ ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 2 Apr 1997 22:47:47 -0800 From: Earle Rother Subject: '88 4Runner Clutch To: Toy4x4@tlca.org, sbever@jeffnet.org >Earle Wrote: >> I would go with the stock clutch - they last a long time and may not cost >> you as much as the aftermarket ones. let me clarify myself - aftermarket heavy duty name brand may be $$ - I call around the local toyota shops, I can think of 5 of em and I get a diffrent price on parts and service from all of them - I have also used Browns Toyota of MD. > >I agree. But Toyota tells me that they only stock Toyota rebuilt >clutch kits for $180; they can order a new one for more $! A local >shop sells ASCO clutch kits for $80 and claim they are OEM. Anyone >have any knowledge of this? I don't know about this but see if they will let you look at one - check it out and look to see whats the diff. - could be worth $100 bucks ! > >Also, Schucks sells Ztreeter clutches with a lifetime warranty for >$112. Worth it or a waste of time and money? sorry no clue. > > >> If you have any questions I have the Toyota shop manuals. > >How did you pull the pilot bearing; slide hammer? I took a chance that it would last and 75,000 miles later still going strong - I still have the one I was going to put in - I got all the parts before I started. I checkd mine and saw no problems and no leaks was good and tight so I said screw it and left it in. the slide hammer might do the trick but i think you have to pull the center or you might muck things up - someone on the list said they filled it with greese and used a socket and the greese to push it out - cool idea - maybe a little messy. this was my other problem I think toyota uses a $$tool to pull the bugger. Earle Rother ewr@appsig.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 2 Apr 1997 23:00:52 -0800 From: Earle Rother Subject: '88 4Runner Clutch To: Toy4x4@tlca.org >On Wed, 2 Apr 1997 sbever@jeffnet.org wrote: > >> How do you support the motor while you lower the tcase before (and >> after) unbolting it? > >I use a big chunk of wood on top of the toyota bottle jack. Seems to work >okay. > >> What do you think of the floor jack tranny attachment? It only >> rotates left and right unlike a tranny jack which rotates fore and aft >> as well. Also only costs $39. > >Depends upon the jack that it's going on top of. Most regular floor jacks >aren't real wide. I dunno, I did my tranny using just a regular costco >floor jack. I guess it's nice having a jack that can go really low, so >that you can slide the tranny out from underneath ontop of the jack. (my >jack was not like this.) I had to lift mine off (which wasn't too big of >a problem) but putting it back on...oh man that was hard. Took four >people (three underneath, and me up top using a 2x4 with my tow rope >wrapped around it for a makeshift hoist), and even then it was a pain. > >> I do need a tranny jack for my Cruiser, as I have to change fore/aft >> angles as I drop it to avoid the rear frame crossmember. How bout >> with the 4runner? I may be confused are you dropping a Land Cruiser or a 4Runner. I assume it was a 4Runner- ??? no anyway in a pu/4Runner I remove the center frame crossmember that the tranny is bolted to - you got to remove it. IT would be a big pain to slide/drag it across the crossmember to get it out. > >Didn't notice that problem on my p/u. Bigest problem was getting the >tranny level (left to right) with the engine. Also was hard pivoting it >for/aft too. you also have to think about getting it back in - sure getting it out may be a cake walk but getting it back in is a whole new ball game - you want a jack that you can control not some small floor jack that has a couple of 2x4 stacked and ready to fall - very unstable - this tranny + transfer case is a heavy mother and unless you can bench press ~250-300 your gonna need a good jack. believe me it is well worth it. Earle Rother ewr@appsig.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 03 Apr 97 09:49:18 From: "Fisher, Gary" Subject: 2.8 Diesel Turbo Specs To: toy4x4@tlca.org For all those who are interested. My fuel tank is approx 70 litres (sorry I don't know how many gallons that is??) and prior to fitting my turbo charger, I was getting about 670 km's per tank. After fitting the turbo I now get about 550 km's per tank. Those figures are based on highway driving. One interesting thing I note is that if I nurse it on the highway I get LESS k's per tank?? So now I speed everywhere because I can't afford not too! I've never had the engine dyno tuned since i've had it turbo'd. Apparently it is meant to give even better fuel economy?? FYI. We have dual cab toyota utes over here in Australia by the bucket load and we can even buy a factory fitted warn winch! Gary Fisher ******************************************************** * garyf@hpa.com.au * * '89 Toyota Hilux Extra cab 2.8 turbo diesel * * 32' BFG, ARB bars all round * ******************************************************** ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 2 Apr 1997 20:34:47 -0500 (EST) From: DRM033@aol.com Subject: 2.8 Diesel Turbo Specs To: Toy4x4@tlca.org In a message dated 97-04-02 19:20:08 EST, you write: > > FYI. We have dual cab toyota utes over here in Australia by the bucket > load and we can even buy a factory fitted warn winch! > > > Gary Fisher Oh, yeah. rub it in. REAL nice pal... :) :) :) :) David DRM033@aol.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 2 Apr 1997 18:12:19 -0800 (PST) From: Jonathan Albrecht Subject: 2.8 Diesel Turbo Specs To: Toy4x4@tlca.org On Thu, 3 Apr 1997, Fisher, Gary wrote: > For all those who are interested. My fuel tank is approx 70 litres > (sorry I don't know how many gallons that is??) and prior to fitting my > turbo charger, I was getting about 670 km's per tank. After fitting the > turbo I now get about 550 km's per tank. Those figures are based on I think that means you get 22.5mpg and 18.5mpg...sounds okay I guess. Are you running larger than stock tires? What gears are you running in the diff's? > FYI. We have dual cab toyota utes over here in Australia by the bucket > load and we can even buy a factory fitted warn winch! Ya, sure...just rub it in ;) Jonathan Albrecht albr9619@uidaho.edu http://www.uidaho.edu/~albr9619/ ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 2 Apr 1997 21:03:24 -0800 (PST) From: barneym@scruznet.com (Barney McNamara) Subject: 83 overheating To: Toy4x4@tlca.org Eric wrote: >Have you replaced your radiator cap? If its releasing too early, that >could be a problem. I have not recently changed the cap, but if it was releasing, won't I loose water and see steam? >Have you pressure tested the system? No, wouldn't a pressure failure cause coolant loss? >Do you still have a fan shroud? That could be part of your problem. Yes, fan shroud is where it should be, it is lowered back down around the fan, in front of the engine. John wrote: >Just a thought, did the radiator get moved back down to its origanal height >when the body lift was installed? Yes, The radiator is down in front of the fan and engine. David wrote: >I would say the body lift is your problem. As someone posted recently, the >location of the fan in respect to the radiator is VERY important. If you did >not lower the radiator, that could be it. Also, cutting the shroud could >cause the fan not to be able to do its job. replacing all those parts will >do nothing if the fan is not in a position to do the work. Yes, the radiator and shroud (not cut) are both where they belong. Nick wrote and suggested an electric fan to replace the mechanical one. Also several other letters discuss sticking thermostat issues. I can see when my thermostat opens, the temperature climbs up to a point, then stops, which I assume is where water flow starts. When I got the truck, it had no thermostat (and the fan shroud was in the bed), and it never warmed up at all. When I replaced the heater core and valve, I got no heat due to lack of engine heating up. After adding the first thermostat, I still had no heat. I found that my friend, the previous owner :-( had used so much anti-leak gunk that the pipe under the intake manifold which feeds the hose to the heater was completely blocked with the stuff. I had to pull off the pipe and clear it out with a coat hanger to get any water to flow to the heater core. I've got plenty of heat now, in fact, a little too much. I also had a time when it really overheated after I'd gotten stuck in a muddy puddle. The mud had filled in the bottom 1/4 of the radiator fins, and was blocking all air flow. (Now that I remember that episode, I'm wondering if maybe some of that mud is still in there, still blocking air flow?) I appreciate all the feedback. I think I'll try the radiator cap - that seems cheap. I'll check on the pressure test, and also try feeling for hot/cold spots on the radiator. I also have an electric fan I could try hanging in front of the radiator for more air flow at low speed. I'll let you all know what I find. ______________________________________________________________ Barney McNamara 83 Toyota Short Bed ( barney@flowpoint.com ) stock 22R motor ; 3" body lift Santa Cruz, Ca. 8" alloy rims; 31" BFG A/Ts ______________________________________________________________ Peaceaudi, from Niall. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 2 Apr 1997 05:24:05 -0700 From: nickkrest@batnet.com (Nick Krest) Subject: BFG AT's To: Toy4x4@tlca.org Mike wrote: "...how would you rate BFG all Terrains to Mud Terrains?" If you are going to see mud - at all - avoid the BFG AT's. They have left me buried more than once, even in incredibly dry (except for winter) central California. I found a better all-terrain tire with good mud traction to be Bridgestone Dueler AT 691's, at about $20 less each. - Nick ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 02 Apr 1997 08:59:22 EST From: ggalyean@juno.com (William E Galyean) Subject: Bio To: toy4x4@tlca.org On Sat, 29 Mar 1997 17:59:53 -1000 Toy4x4-Request writes: >Personal Bio Info > >POST TO THE LIST ONLY >> toy4x4@tlca.org >+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ > >Name:W. Eugene Galyean II > >City & State:Huntington WVa > >Country:USA > >E-mail address:Ggalyean@juno.com > >Toyota (s) year & model: 93 Toyota Pickup 4x4 > >Are you a TLCA Member (Y/N/Number?):no > >Age:34 > >Occupation:Maintence for a chain of locally owned resturants > >Marital Status:Single > >Hobbies:Fishing, hunting, camping, washing the truck then going out and getting it dirty with a 6-pack of friends > >How did you find out about the Toyota 4x4 Mailing List: Web crawer > >General info about your vehicle, self, etc.:Bought it used about 3 months ago. It was basically stock at the time but gradually putting stuff on it. Added Topper, bedliner, tinted the windows and misc little items > > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 2 Apr 1997 09:38:50 -0800 From: "Victor Sery" Subject: Bio To: "Toy4x4" - ---------- > From: Toy4x4-Request > To: vsery@cnx.net > Subject: Bio > Date: Wednesday, March 05, 1997 8:55 PM > > Personal Bio Info > > POST TO THE LIST ONLY >> toy4x4@tlca.org > +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ > > Name:Victor Sery > > City & State:Kelowna,British Colimbia > > Country:Canada > > E-mail address:vsery@cnx.net > > Toyota (s) year & model:82 reg cab > Are you a TLCA Member (Y/N/Number?):n > > Age:25 > > Occupation:laborer,second year apprentis mechanic > > Marital Status:engaged > > Hobbies:4x4ing,mountain biking,pulling wrenches > > How did you find out about the Toyota 4x4 Mailing List:friend > > General info about your vehicle, self, etc.:my truck is an 82 toy with 22R, header, stock 4 gear, 7" lift, 38.5 ground hawgs, centerline style rims, 4.38 gears. Shortly is going to recive a 350 ch*v, 2" more lift, and 40" boggers. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 2 Apr 1997 05:23:45 -0700 From: nickkrest@batnet.com (Nick Krest) Subject: Camper Shells To: Toy4x4@tlca.org David Fritzsche wrote: "...I have been to three different camper shell outlets. I go in to these places and say I want to buy a shell for my truck what do you recommend. I tell them that the truck will be used for heavy four wheeling (Rubcion, Fordyce Creek, Gold Lake). I received three different answers. One says fiberglass, the other says ABS plastic, and the third says steel-not aluminum." I agree with Galen that if you want a fibreglass shell, go with Glasstite. However, 'glass shells (and steel, too) are HEAVY, my brother. If you're like me, and your truck is constantly loaded with lotsa stuff, I would go with a thermoplastic (same stuff coolers are made out of) shell. I went with a Brahma (1-800-The-Bull) 10 yrs. and 290,000 miles ago, and have not regretted it one iota. Very light (<75 lbs.) and very durable (Joie Chitwood uses them instead of roll bars in his stunt show). Except for an incident involving heroin addicts, a large steel pipe, and a San Francisco parking lot years ago, I have had no problems with it. If and when you need parts (see smack addict incident above), either see your dealer or call the toll-free number and you'll find parts are incredibly cheap and are delivered to your door. They come in a variety of configurations, are custom-painted to match your rig (for $50), and can be delivered in a week or less, depending on your distance from Tejas. Highly recommended. - Nick ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 2 Apr 1997 09:22:54 -0800 (PST) From: "J. Chacon" Subject: Camper Shells To: TLCA Well here it goes. did quite a bit of research on this subject before I purchased, and I guess most of the tops are actually pretty good. I purchased a GEM TOP Steel canopy. Here is why: If you are going to sleep in the truck, it breaths well. If you are going to carry loads (I have a safari rack on my truck that I had 300lbs on in Moab last year wheeling) the steel top will definately carry more weight than plastic or fiberglass.I weigh 135lbs and can stand on my top to load things on it no broblem. The steel top will definately not crack under extreme twisting (fiberglass will)no matter what anyone tells you! Plastic flexis the best, but does not breath well and is not very strong. I have not had a problem with my steel top flexing, as a matter of fact it adds great strength to the rear of the truck. The steel also adds about 50 more lbs. than a fiberglass, and about 75lbs more than a plastic, but the extra weight is apluss in my book(traction). As far as style I guess its all in what you like. Fiberglass tops definately have the market on style. I really like the modern looks of the fiberglass tops. I have a friend that has a Snug Top that seems to warp (not a great deal,,just weird) and when it heats back up ititback to its normal self. I am not sure if this is true or normal for all fiberglass. Hope This helps: Joe ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 2 Apr 1997 05:23:51 -0700 From: nickkrest@batnet.com (Nick Krest) Subject: Detroit Lockers To: Toy4x4@tlca.org Jerry Crandall wrote: "I ahve an opportunity to buy complete axels, front and rear. The front has tru trac and the rear has Detroit Lockers with 4.11 R&P. This is out of a 1984 truck with 83K on it. Also a 3 inch lift with springs. He is asking 650.00 for everything. My question is , since I just purchased my truck, and not really knowing the value of these items, is the price right and are they a worthwhile investment. I have heard bad things about the lockers on a rig that is also a commute truck, hard to handle and noisy." Good deal, if the axles aren't bent. Depends on spring lift brand, configuration, and age. Realize, though, that 4.11 (4.10?) gears won't be sufficient on a 22R rig with 32" or larger tires, and you'll have to go 4.56 or lower. I just posted two things this past week regarding my Detroit Locker experience. Check for 'em on the digest. Basically, 95% of the time (on road), I can't even tell it's back there. I KNOW it's there off-road! As for handling, well, I think degree shims in your front axle are a far worse gremlin than a locker in the rear could ever be. Good luck, - Nick ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 2 Apr 1997 09:41:01 -0500 From: Ed.Wong@astramerck.com Subject: Detroit Lockers To: " - (052)jerry (a) gcrandall.gardnerville.nv.us" Jerry: Well heck - If you saw my post - a yard here wants $450 for an "open" axle (Philly). If you dont have traction bars - swapping the axles is a 8 nut job ;) - --- ok plus 4 more for the driveshaft... and 1 fer the brake line Anyway - since I guess your rig is stock (manual) it should have 4.10, so swap in the front tru-trac to the rear if ya dont like the detroit) - and sell me the detroit fer cheap ;) (I assume that you also nave a pre 86 (solid axle) and I thought the third members were swappable front to rear on those) hey - in the worst case you'd have a spare! EWong ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 03 Apr 1997 00:34:09 -0800 From: Frank Di Giovanni Subject: Diff Breathers To: Toyota 4X4 Mailing List I know this has been exhausted quite a bit, but I just got out from under my 4Runner today to do an oil change and I was wondering about putting diff breathers in. It looks like a plastic cap on the nipple, can I break that off(plastic cap) and add a long hose from a fuel line with a fuel filter, like everyone suggested some time ago. Or do I have to retap the hole and put something else in there. The front ones are really close to the oil pan and it seem impossible to tap. If you can just use a long hose and fuel filter, what size tube or fuel line (I.D. or O.D.)should I buy. Thanks in advance for any help,and sorry for bringing this topic up again. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 02 Apr 1997 18:17:12 +0000 From: Brendan Subject: Downey/Rancho 10" travel lift To: Toy4x4@tlca.org > Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 22:30:20 -0800 (PST) > From: Jonathan Albrecht > Subject: Downey/Rancho 10" travel lift > To: Toy4x4@tlca.org > > On Tue, 1 Apr 1997, Dan Smith wrote: > > > Does anyone on the list have any experience with the Downey/Rancho 10" > > travel IFS lift? I have a 90 4-Runner & am seriously considering this lift > > as a way to increase offroad ability and travel on my truck. Just a note > > I'd see if you couldn't use their mega travel ball joints, and longer > travel shocks with the regular rancho kit (and don't drop the bumpstop). > With the Downey setup you can't run the hubs locked at highway speeds, > though I've heard of another company's cv joint setup that does let you > run in 4wd at highway speeds, not sure of the name though. > > > Jonathan Albrecht > albr9619@uidaho.edu > http://www.uidaho.edu/~albr9619/ > The name of the company is West Coast Off-Road. I believe the owner of the company is or was a subscriber to this list. If I'm not mistaken it is: Neal Sullivan, City & State: Westminster CA E-mail address: mmisullivan@msn.com (info from Toy4x4 digest V1 #19). I recall a fellow writing in at the beginning of this list's existence, saying he had the Downey shafts and that the u-joints were always breaking (plus the incapability of highway speeds). The WCOR design, if I'm not mistaken, uses a different method to where the guides in the cup are cut in a spiral fashion (vs. straight for the Toy way). This is so more travel, steeper angles, and 4wd highway speeds can be achieved (I think it is called the Rezeppa design or something like that). But if one uses the "mega travel" ball joints and the Rancho parts without lowering the bumpstops and the differential (while using the stock CV shafts), the CV shafts will end up being destroyed (because they aren't capable of much more than stock travel). So if one wants the 10-11" travel, new CV shafts have to used (along with the other parts). I'm very curious too, as to how this longer travel setup works. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 2 Apr 1997 20:58:17 -0800 (PST) From: Jonathan Albrecht Subject: Downey/Rancho 10" travel lift To: Toy4x4@tlca.org On Wed, 2 Apr 1997, Brendan wrote: > spiral fashion (vs. straight for the Toy way). This is so more travel, > steeper angles, and 4wd highway speeds can be achieved (I think it is > called the Rezeppa design or something like that). But if one uses the > "mega travel" ball joints and the Rancho parts without lowering the > bumpstops and the differential (while using the stock CV shafts), the CV > shafts will end up being destroyed (because they aren't capable of much > more than stock travel). So if one wants the 10-11" travel, new CV > shafts have to used (along with the other parts). I'm very curious too, > as to how this longer travel setup works. Here's what I'm wondering: I don't really mind lowering the diff (I've only hit mine on something once or twice, and the skidplate took all of the beating, not the diff), so would it be possible to use the standard Rancho 3" lift kit, minus bump stop extensions, plus downey upper ball joints, and plus longer travel shocks. Seems like this would work, and since angles are stock, you get 4wd on the highway (which is where I use 4wd the most anyway). The only real problem is that you still couldn't run larger tires, but you have that same problem with the downey kit anyway. Jonathan Albrecht albr9619@uidaho.edu http://www.uidaho.edu/~albr9619/ ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 02 Apr 1997 21:29:47 +0000 From: sbever@jeffnet.org Subject: Driveshaft llube To: jalford@off-road.com, Toyota 4x4 List Jack Alford wrote: > I use Mobil-1 synthetic, in all my u-joints and steering knuckles and > bearings. It is the only type grease that is not water permeable. > It's sortof costly at $4.99 at tube but well worth it in > my opinion. I do not use synthetic lubricants any where else on my > truck. Do you remove all traces of the other grease first, or do you just start lubing with the synthetic? i.e. should I dissasemble and remove all traces of the lithuim grease from things like my center arm and repack with the sythetic or just start pumping the synthetic in there? Thanks, Scott ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 02 Apr 1997 22:02:42 -0700 From: Tony Bartlett Subject: driveshaft mods To: toy4x4@tlca.org I have just replace my rear driveshaft because of the center bearing going out and they are just about as expensive as a new 1 piece shaft. They make flanges now that bolt up to the Toyota x-fer case and 3rd member flanges that use spicer 1310 u-joints (spicer number might be incorrect). I do not think they have them for the 83 and older trucks because of the different bolt size. I am not sure about the Toyota flange bolt size of 86 and newer but I think they have not changed since 84. They even make the double cardan cv joint that uses spicer u-joints and bolts up to the x-fer case. I went this direction because the spicer u-joint is easier to find in a pinch than the toyota and they should be stronger. I did have over 220,000 miles on my original u-joints though. I hope I can still have that type of milage out of the spicers. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 02 Apr 1997 10:10:45 -0500 From: Rick Furnival Subject: Glass shell To: Galen Sinkey Galen, I'd love a JPEG of your truck with the shell. I've been considering one myself. Rick Furnival, P.E. furnival@citizen.infi.net Sullivan, Donahoe & Ingalls, PC Engineers, Land Planners & Surveyors http://www.sdi-pc.com Phone: 540-898-5878 FAX: 540-898-3390 ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 2 Apr 1997 12:38:26 -0500 (EST) From: TXPakRat@aol.com Subject: Horn and Computer Chip To: Toy4x4@tlca.org I have two topics I am hoping someone, somewhere can help me with. Horns: I want to get rid of the wimpy "toy" horn on my 4Runner. Has anybody replaced theirs? If so, what did you replace it with, where did you mount it, and did you run it from the original horn wires? I have been looking at a two or three horn system from JC Whitney. They supposedly crank 134 db and the largest horn is only 7 or 8 inches long (I don't know how wide). I am wondering if they will fit close to the stock horn location between the grill and radiator. Computer Chip: Has anyone installed one of the upgrade computer chips from JET that you can get thru Performance Products? If so, what are the "real world" benefits, if any? Is it worth the $400 that they are asking (along with the 3 or 4 day turn around time)? Bob Pack Rat TXPakRat@aol.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 2 Apr 1997 09:50:56 -0800 (PST) From: Kevin Valentine Subject: Horn and Computer Chip To: Toy4x4@tlca.org Horns: I want to get rid of the wimpy "toy" horn on my 4Runner. Has anybody replaced theirs? If so, what did you replace it with, where did you mount it, and did you run it from the original horn wires? I too are interested in upgrading the road runner "beep-beep horn" on my 4Runner. Anyone try the Hella's? Looks like the air type horns are cheaper than the other type (not sure what they're called) but they look the same as stock horns - perhaps magnetic is the correct term. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 02 Apr 1997 10:14:47 -0800 From: Scott Wilson Subject: Horn and Computer Chip To: Toy4x4@tlca.org TXPakRat@aol.com wrote: > Horns: I want to get rid of the wimpy "toy" horn on my 4Runner. Has > anybody replaced theirs? If so, what did you replace it with, where did you > mount it, and did you run it from the original horn wires? I have been > looking at a two or three horn system from JC Whitney. They supposedly crank > 134 db and the largest horn is only 7 or 8 inches long (I don't know how > wide). I am wondering if they will fit close to the stock horn location > between the grill and radiator. We talked about this a few months ago when I installed my Hella twin air horns. :) They're LOUD! The pitch is just a bit higher than I wanted, but they make up for it in volume. They cost me $38 @ 4WPH. They come with all mounting hardware, compressor, and relay, but no wires. So make sure you've got some wire around when you go to install them. Installation is a piece of cake, and you can use the old horn wiring to switch the relay. Then you just need to run a line to the battery, to power the compressor. Don't have time to say more now, if anyone is interested I'll write more. Also, I've got pictures scanned in of my install if anyone wants to see them. I managed to squeeze the horns in about the same place as the old horn, right behind the grill. They --just-- fit. Scott - -- Scott A. Wilson __o __o __o __o Santa Clara, CA _'\<,_ _'\<,_ _'\<,_ _'\<,_ swilson@pacbell.net (_)' (_) (_)' (_) (_)' (_) (_)' (_) http://users.uniserve.com/~rcomber/scottw/scottw.htm ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 02 Apr 1997 17:35:13 +0000 From: Brendan Subject: lift springs To: Toy4x4@tlca.org > Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 13:33:03 -0600 > From: Jack Alford > Subject: Lift springs > To: toy4x4@tlca.org > > Depending upon your use and how much lift you want, for the money you > can't go wrong with running a set of mazda springs. They're ultra > soft and give lots of droop. Though this softness does not come > without a price, which in this case is the need to run a traction > bar to prevent kinking the soft springs. If you read Jay's article > on Off-Road.com, which can be gotten to from: > > http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota/toyota.html I don't know if this has already been asked, but how do the mazda spring length compare to the later model Toy trucks ('89 & on) spring length? Would there be a significant advantage/gain doing this modification on a later model truck? ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 03 Apr 1997 00:35:39 PST From: "jen gibson" Subject: like anybody cares about this but me To: toy4x4@tlca.org I'm so proud of my truck! I'm on spring break spending the days 4-wheeling and such, so I declared today a national holiday- "I know, let's go wheeling and fishing all day long!" so I did. Anyway, I'll get to the point- My Toyota kicked so much ass today!! I, (a 16 yr.old girl) and my truck, (a rice burner--sorry) actually out-wheeled a "certain stereotypical 4x4 god that begins with a J and ends with an EEP" driven by an egotistical little boy that no longer has any self-esteem!!!! Oh, I also put the nissan to shame (suprise,suprise). My toyota, a.k.a. 4- wheel jive, went places these other guys tried, and failed miserably! I honestly still can't believe this, it was great!! I was so excited I just had to tell you all! - -Jenny by the way- I've learned a whole heck of a ton from this list about my truck! thanks - --------------------------------------------------------- Get Your *Web-Based* Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com - --------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 2 Apr 1997 09:10:55 -0800 (PST) From: Kevin Valentine Subject: magnet ? To: Toy4x4@tlca.org That's good advice. Don't anyone take this too lightly. On Tue, 1 Apr 1997 DRM033@aol.com wrote: > this talk about safety and injuries is real important. being the typical > teenager, I thought safety goggles were for wimps. Well, the day I got a > LARGE sliver of metal in my eye taught me otherwise. You think the dentist > is bad? How would you like that drill stuck in your eye? Not fun, let me > tell you. I was lucky: he said if the injury had been in my field of vision, > I would have pretty much lost use of that eye. I use those goggles now, and > usually carrry a pair for somebody else ( like that guy in the van who fixed > Jack's shock). > be safe! > > David > DRM033@aol.com > > > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 02 Apr 1997 17:25:12 +0000 From: Brendan Subject: magnet? To: Toy4x4@tlca.org > Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 10:20:21 -0600 > From: Jack Alford > Subject: magnet ? > To: toy4x4@tlca.org > > Hello all, I find myself all to often with slivers of metal in > my fingers and hands. I was wondering if anyone knew of any super > strong (joe-average-consumer purchasable) magnet that might have > the ability to remove these slivers from my hands ?? It sure would > be easier than the dig with needle/tweezer method I regularly use. > And before anyone asks the question, Yes, I do wear gloves wherever > possible but it is not a good idea, safety wise, to wear gloves while > using certain pieces of equipment. Thanks. > How about building a super strong electomagnet? :-) I used to work at a CNC machine shop, so we were always getting metal slivers in our hands. But we always just used tweezers and careful use of a knife. However, we also used to get small slivers that we couldn't see, but everytime it was brushed the right way, we could feel it (very annoying!). I learned a valuable trick from the older machinists by taking a piece of emery cloth and rubbing it in one direction. The cloth would "grab" the tiny, unseeable sliver and remove it. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 03 Apr 1997 00:34:04 -0800 From: Frank Di Giovanni Subject: magnet ? To: Toy4x4@tlca.org At 03:16 AM 4/2/97 -0500, you wrote: >In a message dated 97-04-01 19:33:44 EST, you write: >David i can't agree with you more. Ever since i got a piece of metel stuck >in my eye i always make sure that i'm wearing my safety goggles. When I got >the piece of metal stuck in my eye i was only using the grinder for a second. > You can never be to safe. > >John > > I got a red hot stainless fragment from a grinder once, boy did that smart. It felt like a dart was thrown into my eye. I kept trying to wash it or pull it out with a tweezers(sp), but it got burned in to the skin of the eye. Finally I had to go to the doctor to get my eye frozen(I believe they put some kind of gel that freezes the eye). He tried a magnet first but I told him it was stainless and it wasn't magnetic. So he had to scrape it out, boy was I shaking and sweating. After he got it out he put a special gel in the eye, then shined a blue light to see how bad the tissue under the eye lid was. It was like someone sanded the inside of my eye lids with fine sand paper. Now back to our regular scheduled program, hope I didn't make anybody sick. _______________________________________________________ Frank Di Giovanni shoalseeker@geocities.com http://www.geocities.com/Baja/1228/pics.html 1990 Toyota 4 Runner SR5 V6 4X4 2dr. BFG All-Terrains,Trailmaster Invader sk,Warn combo winch bumper, Smittybuilt nerfbars, k&n air filter, Hi-lift jack, cb radio, wilson antenna, Aurora ignition ________________________________________________________ ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 2 Apr 1997 12:05:42 MST7MDT From: "Alan Anderson" Subject: NEED AUSSIE SHAKLES FOR 85 TOY P'UP To: Toy4x4@tlca.org, Offroad@off-road.com, LandCruisers@tlca.org I am looking to buy a full set of aussie or any other non-usa spring shackles and hangers for an '85 toy pickup....SR5 4x4....I was under the impresion that with these you could use OME Hi-lux springs?!? E-mail me w/info. and a price if there are any around or someone can find some......THANX! ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 2 Apr 1997 20:19:13 -0800 From: "Todd and Terry" Subject: Nerf bars To: > In a message dated 97-04-01 09:56:23 EST, you write: > > << I've been looking at Nerf Bars recently and am in need of some > recommendations. I like the Smittybilt Nerf Bars (not to mention their > price) but I also really like the Rhino Nerf Bars. Main problem I see > with the Rhino Nerf Bars is their price ($500 or so). Can anyone make any > recommendations or provide information on quality, durability, ease of > installation, etc. for either of these Nerf Bar setup's. > I bought a set from Derwin Diversified out of Santa Paula CA. I didn't like the width, so we cut off the brackets and 2.5" of the tube, then rewelded the brackets to pull them in closer to the rocker panels. The rear mount shares the front leaf spring bolt. I'll find out how they last on the Dusy this summer. Todd 87 Toyota 4X4, EZ Lockers F/R, 30-11.50-15 TSL SX's, 15X8 AR 26's, RS 5000's, Ramsey F bumper, Custom Nerfs, Custom rear bumper, Custom body by Sierra Nevada. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 2 Apr 1997 10:22:22 -0800 (PST) From: Chris Geiger Subject: None To: Toy4x4@tlca.org > told be that he had two 4Runners on his trail this year and both of them > broke their tie-rod ends going through golden crack. He ask me if tie-rods > were a known problem with 4Runners. Does anyone know if this is the case? > If it is what are the years that had problems? I have heard this too along with the idler arm as been week point. I broke a tie-rod on my '63 LC after a rather high (read stupid) jump. Now I carry spairs. Chris Geiger http://geiger.mcl.ucsb.edu/offroad.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 2 Apr 1997 10:15:46 -0500 From: Ed.Wong@astramerck.com Subject: Oil Pressure To: " - (052)Toy4x4 (a) tlca.org" Mike: I run mobil 1 synthetic... - regular oil will vary Cold start (winter) - runs about 70lbs at idle - up to 80lbs at speed If I use a block warmer - cold start is about 63lbs One warmed up at speed - tops out at 60lbs at idle - as low as 15lbs if is *really* hot but 20lbs is preferred. I have the gagues mounted tach/vac/oil press/oil temp.... they are "Petty-ized" so they point to 1 o'clock, but even then taking off - there a needles all over the place! Oh - I run autometer EWong ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 2 Apr 1997 12:36:41 -0500 (EST) From: TXPakRat@aol.com Subject: Omni-Pak vs Omni Team To: Toy4x4@tlca.org Butch, I believe that you what to know the main difference between the Omni-Pak and the Omni Team. Both are made by Jacobs. The Omni Team comes with a high end coil, and a separate computer controller. The Omni-Pak combines the coil and the computer into one small box. I think that the Omni Team has a few more features. However, the Omni-Pak was slightly cheaper and having everything in one small box was esier to squeeze into my already crowded engine compartment. When I installed my Omni-pak I ran into a few minor problems. First, they sent the wrong adapter to run from the stock coil to the new computer/coil. I called Jacobs and I had it within a few days. For the Toy V6, they recommend regapping the plugs to .045 (or no more than .015 over stock). After installation, I started to get pinging in the 1800 - 2400 rpm range (V6) under moderate throttle push (not under hard or light!). I called Jacobs, they said that I needed to go to a colder plug. I tried this and all it did was change the pinging to the 2200 - 3000 rpm. I call Jacobs back, they had no more suggestions. I tried calling Performance Products (very friendly people). The guy I talked to explained that although Jacobs recommends gapping to .045, every engine is different and I should try increasing the gap a little at a time until the pinging stopped. So, I went back to my original heat range plugs (Champion) and regapped to .050. That decreased the range that the engine would ping. I stepped up to .055 and guess what . . . no more ping. I tried .060 just for grins. It seemed to work fine, but I seemed to be eating up more gas, so I dropped back down to .055. That was about 9 months ago and I have not had any pinging problem since. As far as benefits, I better pickup off the line and easier starting. However, I did not get any significant increase in mpg (until I added my Borla cat-back a few months later). Hope this helps! Let me know if you need more info. Bob Pack Rat TXPakRat@aol.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 03 Apr 1997 00:34:06 -0800 From: "Frank Di Giovanni <" , Subject: Omni-Pak vs Omni Team To: Toy4x4@tlca.org At 12:36 PM 4/2/97 -0500, you wrote: I tried calling Performance Products (very >friendly people). The guy I talked to explained that although Jacobs >recommends gapping to .045, every engine is different and I should try >increasing the gap a little at a time until the pinging stopped. So, I went >back to my original heat range plugs (Champion) and regapped to .050. That >decreased the range that the engine would ping. I stepped up to .055 and >guess what . . . no more ping. I tried .060 just for grins. It seemed to >work fine, but I seemed to be eating up more gas, so I dropped back down to >.055. That was about 9 months ago and I have not had any pinging problem >since. >Bob >Pack Rat >TXPakRat@aol.com > > Hi Bob, I have a 90 4Runner also, and I'm running the Canadian version of Jacobs Omni-pak. The owner of Aurora Electronics recommends using NGKs and gapping them at .60, the motor has not pinged yet up steep hills in 4th gear. The reason for gapping the plugs that much is because the volts is increased to give a bigger and thicker spark. _______________________________________________________ Frank Di Giovanni shoalseeker@geocities.com http://www.geocities.com/Baja/1228/pics.html 1990 Toyota 4 Runner SR5 V6 4X4 2dr. BFG All-Terrains,Trailmaster Invader sk,Warn combo winch bumper, Smittybuilt nerfbars, k&n air filter, Hi-lift jack, cb radio, wilson antenna, Aurora ignition ________________________________________________________ ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 02 Apr 1997 21:36:17 -0700 From: Tony Bartlett Subject: parts on 22RET (large white plastic screw) To: toy4x4@tlca.org If it is like the 22RE then it should be your adjustment for adjusting idle when either a/c is on or high power steering pressures (turning into the stops). follow the vacuum lines from the valve, should go to you p/s pump. either turn your a/c on and check idle or turn you steering wheel all the way one direction and hold it and adjust until your idle is normal. hope this helps. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 2 Apr 1997 10:28:09 -0500 From: Ed.Wong@astramerck.com Subject: Parts on a 22RET To: " - (052)Toy4x4 (a) tlca.org" Id love ta help BUT.. We need a model year for the engine Is it California emissions or Federal emissions *rubber stopper* at the bottom of the tranny - uh - there is a metal threaded nut down there - and if its missing yer tranny will let you know REAL fast... Otherwise - I dunno what yer talking about - what side, where located? (also - what year - auto/manual, 4speed,5speed etc) EWong >>>>>>> Does anyone have an idea as to what the rather large white plastic screw near the EFI system is (the one with the spring around it), and how to adjust it? One of my stupid friends started screwing around with it and I don't know where it's supposed to be set at. Chiltons says nothing. Also, I found that the rubber stopper on the bottom of my tranny had been open for God knows how long. I am praying that that is not supposed to be any sort or tranny fluid stopper, maybe just some sort of service opening? Please cc me directly if you have the answer. ------------------------------ Date: 02 Apr 97 18:45:18 GMT From: DFritzsc@smtp.cde.ca.gov (Fritzsche, David) Subject: Pro-Comp Lift To: toy4x4@tlca.org I just received my Pro-Comp Stage II lift kit for a 1990 pickup. I need some insight on how hard this thing will be to install. What can I look for as problem spots. Any info will be appreciated. "WHAT A LONG STRANGE TRIP ITS BEEN" Grateful Dead David Fritzsche 515 L Street Suite 230 Sacramento, CA 95814 Work (916)323-5568 FAX (916)327-8306 dfritzsc@cde.ca.gov-----Work otto@inreach.com---------Home ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 2 Apr 1997 11:30:56 -0800 (PST) From: Chris Geiger Subject: Pro-Comp Lift To: Toy4x4@tlca.org > I just received my Pro-Comp Stage II lift kit for a 1990 pickup. I need > some insight on how hard this thing will be to install. What can I look > for as problem spots. Any info will be appreciated. It took me 20 hours to install the kit myself on my 4Runner. The sway bar mounts and the compression struts did not fit my truck and the company was no help. Also the shocks that came with the kit were too soft so I got a set of RS 9000. The front end needed to be aligned after putting in the kit. You don't need to cut off the frame to lower the front diff, just bend the tabs in a little and you can get the diff down, than the tabs will be there if you ever want to remove the lift. Chris Geiger http://geiger.mcl.ucsb.edu/offroad.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 2 Apr 1997 17:53:56 -0800 (PST) From: Jonathan Albrecht Subject: Pro-Comp Lift To: Toy4x4@tlca.org On 2 Apr 1997, Fritzsche, David wrote: > I just received my Pro-Comp Stage II lift kit for a 1990 pickup. I need > some insight on how hard this thing will be to install. What can I look > for as problem spots. Any info will be appreciated. I've been meaning to write up our install of a Superlift kit (pretty similar to the Pro-comp and Trailmaster)...but I haven't yet. So here's a 'quick' run down of what you will need to do. Okay, first off, I want to say that you can install this kit without any air tools or anything like that. You will need a hacksaw or grinder, a pitman arm puller (or similar type that is very strong), and a regular box of tools. You'll also need a couple of Jacks (I think you could do it with just one) and a pair of nice high jackstands. With any luck your instructions are pretty complete (the Superlift ones were 'good enough'), and you should read them through at least once, preferably twice before you do anything. If anybody's helping you out with the kit, get them to read the instructions too. The install isn't that hard, but is time consuming. I think we spent about 36 hours on our's, but others have done it in much, much less time (like 8 hours or so). I suspect a shop could do it even faster. Anyway, you need to lift the frame up high enough that the front tires are off the ground, and then put jackstands under the frame behind the sway bars. Then pull out the jack, take off the tires, and shocks, and follow the instructions. The harder parts (that I remember) Pulling the upper ball joint out of the knuckle. You will need a puller. I used a $40 pitman arm puller from Western Auto, and returned it after I was done with it (probably not the 'right thing to do' but it did work.) Oh yeah, try asking at the parts counter, because sometimes places like Western Auto will loan out pullers and tools if you give them some money for collatoral--Western auto wants 10 dollars for a week, refunded when you give them back the tool. Pressing out those ball joints took a huge amount of force, I actually thought I was going to break the puller, (it was a huge non-adjustable one too), but the joints do pop out eventually. Also, put something underneath the hub to catch it when it fall down. I ripped a cv boot wide open on my friends cause I didn't (it did have a small rip in it already from running around in 75+ degree weather with 1.5-2" of cranking--hubs unlocked) You will also need to press the tie rod ends out of the knuckle, and then press them into the new ones that come with the lift. One guy I talked to tried a pickle fork, and ended up destroying his, and bought new greaseable ones instead. We lucked out, 'cause my friend's uncle had access to a huge hydraulic press, which did them real easy. When you drop down the diff you will need to trim off a corner of one of the old drop down brackets. We used an electric grinder, but you could use a hacksaw too (though it might be hard to get at it with the diff in the way). On the Superlift kit, an edge of the bumpstop needs to be trimmed, for shock clearance. (though we didn't find that out until we tried that 3' berm...at 35mph). Also, if your kit uses different eccentric cams (I don't think it does) then you will need to press off the old ones, and press the new ones on. It is possible to beat the old ones off with a hammer, and press the new ones on by just tightening the eccentric cam bolts when you put them on the truck. It's easier just to get them pressed when you get the tied rods done though. That's all of the major things that I can think of offhand. Remember to coat everything with some kind of penatrant, remember to re-tighten everything a few days after you install the lift, and don't forget to schedule and alignment apointment ahead of time, cause it's pretty hard to get it back to spech using just a tape measure. One other thing: You may want to pressure wash the underside before you start work, but be careful! My friend did a real good job, and ended up destroying his oil pan gasket, which is a PITA to change. Hope this helps, Jonathan Albrecht albr9619@uidaho.edu http://www.uidaho.edu/~albr9619/ ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 2 Apr 1997 05:24:08 -0700 From: nickkrest@batnet.com (Nick Krest) Subject: Recommendations on Nerf Bars To: Toy4x4@tlca.org Martin E. Rubin wrote: "I've been looking at Nerf Bars recently and am in need of some recommendations. I like the Smittybilt Nerf Bars (not to mention their price) but I also really like the Rhino Nerf Bars. Main problem I see with the Rhino Nerf Bars is their price ($500 or so). Can anyone make any recommendations or provide information on quality, durability, ease of installation, etc. for either of these Nerf Bar setup's." Wow, for $500 I hope they come with some extra-special stuff that can't be mentioned on a family list like this. SKeene8194@aol.com wrote: "I bought the Smittybuilt Nerf bars. They are just for looks only. Because of the way they attach, they can be bent up easly by a rock. I had to do some modifications to my bars for real off road use." I would have to disagree with this. I have heard the now-familiar "WHAM! bonnnng..." sound of my long-wheelbase pickup smashing down on a rock a lot of times in the 9+ years since I bolted on my Smittybilts. I recently replaced the bolts with some cad-plated grade 8's, but have not even painted them since they went on. I have used a Hi-lift on them numerous times with no problem. I don't thing they can be beat for the money. And Scott's right, the correct word for my truck is "abuse" not "use"; likewise, substitute "neglect" for "maintain" in any situation except for fluid changes. - Nick ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 2 Apr 1997 18:28:13 -0500 (EST) From: SKeene8194@aol.com Subject: Recommendations on Nerf Bars To: Toy4x4@tlca.org In a message dated 97-04-02 10:46:47 EST, you write: << SKeene8194@aol.com wrote: "I bought the Smittybuilt Nerf bars. They are just for looks only. Because of the way they attach, they can be bent up easly by a rock. I had to do some modifications to my bars for real off road use." Nick Krest Wrote: I would have to disagree with this. I have heard the now-familiar "WHAM! bonnnng..." sound of my long-wheelbase pickup smashing down on a rock a lot of times in the 9+ years since I bolted on my Smittybilts. I recently >> On my 81 long bed the rear of the nerf bar has a plate welded on with two holes at the top of the plate only. You drill holes in the frame and put bolts thru the holes in the plate. The plate can bend because there it nothing holding the the bottom of the plate down. When a rock hits the bottom of the nerf bar there is a lot of leverage on the mounting plate. I welded a piece of angle iron to the mounting plate and bolted that to the frame to hold the bottom down. The front of the tube has a 1" wide, maybe 6" long bar welded to the side of the tubing with holes in it for attaching to the trany cross member bolts. It just does not look very strong. I have a friend here in CA with an 84 X-cab, same bars, they are bent up against the body. Although for the price, you could consider them disposable. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 2 Apr 1997 20:30:57 -0500 (EST) From: DRM033@aol.com Subject: Recommendations on Nerf Bars To: Toy4x4@tlca.org In a message dated 97-04-02 18:33:20 EST, you write: > On my 81 long bed the rear of the nerf bar has a plate welded on with two > holes at the top of the plate only. You drill holes in the frame and put > bolts thru the holes in the plate. > The plate can bend because there it nothing holding the the bottom of the > plate down. > When a rock hits the bottom of the nerf bar there is a lot of leverage on > the mounting plate. I welded a piece of angle iron to the mounting plate > and bolted that to the frame to hold the bottom down. My truck has similar "show only" nerf bars. If anyone doubts how poorly they attach, I will gladly sell them to ya cheap so I can make my own. 2" square tubing from wheel well to wheel well - now thats protection. David DRM033@aol.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 2 Apr 1997 22:36:36 -0800 From: rmurray@gvn.net (Rick Murray) Subject: Recommendations on Nerf Bars To: TOY4X4@TLCA.ORG I had mine custom-built at a welding shop for $160. Got exactly what I wanted, and they are strong enuf for jacking. ################################################################## Rick Murray 84 Toyota 4Runner SR5 rmurray@gvn.net stock 22R motor ; 3" ProComp Lift http://www.gvn.net/~rmurray/ 8" steel rims; 33" BFG M/T Rancho Cordova, Ca. 4.88 gears; Marlin TCase #67 ; TRD LSD ################################################################## ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 03 Apr 1997 00:34:08 -0800 From: "Frank Di Giovanni <" , Subject: Recommendations on Nerf Bars To: Toy4x4@tlca.org At 05:24 AM 4/2/97 -0700, you wrote: >I would have to disagree with this. I have heard the now-familiar "WHAM! >bonnnng..." sound of my long-wheelbase pickup smashing down on a rock a lot >of times in the 9+ years since I bolted on my Smittybilts. I recently >replaced the bolts with some cad-plated grade 8's, but have not even >painted them since they went on. I have used a Hi-lift on them numerous >times with no problem. I don't thing they can be beat for the money. And >Scott's right, the correct word for my truck is "abuse" not "use"; >likewise, substitute "neglect" for "maintain" in any situation except for >fluid changes. > > - Nick > I have had my smittybuilt nerfbars for 4 yrs now and they have been used to save the rocker panel many times. They are reasonably price, strong and comes heavily powder coated for rust prevention. I'm not to sure if I can use my hi-lift jack to lift it from the side though. As I remember it came with grade 5 bolts but you can upgrade it to grade 8 easily. I believe it has a 1/4" plate welded to the end and lines up with existing holes on the frame. When I get a chance I will weld a better plate on the end so I can bolt it from top and bottom, or a square plate with 4 holes so it would be strong enough to lift it with a hi-lift jack. _______________________________________________________ Frank Di Giovanni shoalseeker@geocities.com http://www.geocities.com/Baja/1228/pics.html 1990 Toyota 4 Runner SR5 V6 4X4 2dr. BFG All-Terrains,Trailmaster Invader sk,Warn combo winch bumper, Smittybuilt nerfbars, k&n air filter, Hi-lift jack, cb radio, wilson antenna, Aurora ignition ________________________________________________________ ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 2 Apr 1997 05:24:00 -0700 From: nickkrest@batnet.com (Nick Krest) Subject: Redline MTL To: Toy4x4@tlca.org "Where can I come by some Redline MTL?" Most road-race/autocross-type shops will carry it. - Nick ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 2 Apr 1997 13:02:18 -0500 (EST) From: TXPakRat@aol.com Subject: Remote Oil Filter Cover To: Toy4x4@tlca.org I had a remote filter for my V6 4Runner (currently not using it, though) . I mounted it high in the front of the drivers side wheel well. I was afraid of rocks and things hitting it, too. So, I bought a cheap rubber floor mat (I think I paid $2). I cut holes in each of the 4 corners and mounted it on the inside of the wheel well at an angle to cover the filter and hoses. I added a couple of other bolts to help "shape" the mat the way that I wanted. It worked great. I left room at the front and top so that I could still reach into the wheel well and remove the filter without having to remove the cover. If you do it right, it will not interfere with the articulation of the tire! I never once had a single ding or dent in the filter, but I had lots of scratches, dents, tar and dirt stuck to the cover! I removed the filter because I kept getting drips of oil at the nipple connections on both ends of the hose. I tried changing the position of the clamp, tried two clamps, and tried wider clamps. I even tried using a little gasket sealer (what a mess, I blew the hoses . . . ask me about that one sometime). Nothing seemed to stop the incessant slow drip, so I gave up. I think that it may have something to do with me using synth engine oil (too slick and seeps too easily). Bob Pack Rat TXPakRat@aol.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 2 Apr 1997 19:23:29 -0500 (EST) From: Misulka@aol.com Subject: remove To: Toy4x4@tlca.org Please remove me from your mailing list. Thank you Michaela ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 02 Apr 1997 12:06:11 -0500 From: "Donn E. Downey" Subject: Shifts hard To: Toy4x4@tlca.org I was just wondering if anyone could lend some insight on a shifting problem. I just bought the truck ('87 4x4 X-cab 5spd) with 113Kmi and have put on a couple thousand more. The guy told me he put a new clutch in 500 miles ago (in order to sell the truck). Now what happens is it goes into gear hard- all gears, but the lower ones more than the higher ones. sometimes i really have to force it to get first. and to get reverse i usually have to put it in second or else i get that ugly grinding noise which we all hate so much. i've spoke to many mechanics and dealers, about half tell me the flywheel was machined too much, the other half say my synchronizers are worn. the clutch doesn't slip at all when driving. how can i figure out what the problem is (without diving into the tranny and measuring the flywheel?) Any advice would be much appreciated. Thanks. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 2 Apr 1997 20:30:42 -0600 From: Steve Capuano Subject: Shotguns was Re: Subwoofers.... To: Toy4x4@tlca.org "If you fill up the area behind your rear >seat with speaker boxes, where do you put your shotgun?" :) > >-Eric >Still (seriously!) trying to figure out where to mount a gun rack in an '87 >4Runner (turkey season opens in two weeks! :) >-- >-- ej@blarg.net > > How bout the vertical method used in squad cars so you will have a skylight if it goes off. Should be kept unloaded though...right ;) (Hey Bill Clinton you are not reading this are you??) Steve Capuano capuano@hypercon.com NRA lifetime member ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 02 Apr 1997 21:43:16 -0700 From: Tony Bartlett Subject: Speedo woes To: toy4x4@tlca.org Jay, if the speedo cable is like Mazda's, which I am sure it is, then the main thing to do is replace it. I have not looked at mine to see if it two piece or not. Mazda's have two piece cables. Just make sure it is not your speedo. I think if you disconnect the cable from the back of the speedo and drive it and the noise is still there then it your cable. If it goes away I think it could still be either (more than likely the cable). I do not know any repairs for the cable. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 2 Apr 1997 21:54:41 -0800 (PST) From: Jonathan Albrecht Subject: Speedo woes To: Toy4x4@tlca.org On Wed, 2 Apr 1997, Tony Bartlett wrote: > Jay, if the speedo cable is like Mazda's, which I am sure it is, then > the main thing to do is replace it. I have not looked at mine to see if > it two piece or not. Mazda's have two piece cables. FWIW, if it's like the cable on the 4cyl p/u's (probably exactly the same), you can't really do any kind of servicing. Just replace the whole thing. It costs about $50 new at the dealer. Might also want to check your speedo gear in the t-case, as this can sometimes get stripped too. Those are either 3 bucks or 8 bucks (forget which). Jonathan Albrecht albr9619@uidaho.edu http://www.uidaho.edu/~albr9619/ ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 02 Apr 1997 13:20:58 -0800 (PST) From: PSHENG@SCUACC.SCU.EDU Subject: stereo shiite To: toy4x4@tlca.org My buddy has 2 Kicker solo-baric 10's behind the seat in his '91 standard cab, amps mounted under the seat. Although the kickers only require .75 cubic feet of air space each and have pretty small boxes, the seat must be positioned too close for comfort for my taste (6'0"), but works OK for him (5'6") He has the pre-fab truck boxes, but if you need more leg room you could have your local stereo shop build a box that is thinner depthwise but larger in length and height. The best place to buy kicker speakers and orion amps is stereo city in newark, CA (on Thornton ave, I can get the address & number if anyone wants it)- these guys have the best prices around and don't have a good enough command of the english language to give you lengthy sales pitches. I was clintoning (waffling) between 2 amps, leaning towards the less expensive one, and they cut me a deal on the more expensive one (didn't have to pay sales tax). I also bought one 4-ohm 10" there, and they said if I wanted to go with 2 8-ohm 10's in the future, they would kick down an 8-ohm coil for the woofer I bought so I would only have to buy 1 new one. The boxes they build aren't that great, though. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 03 Apr 1997 02:55:44 -0700 From: Herman Snodgrass Subject: stereo speakers To: toy4x4@tlca.org >hey all, > >i know this message isn't gonna apply to everyone, but i was wondering >if anyone had any stereo tips on this topic. I currently have a kenwood >CD player in my truck (reg cab 4cyl) and some OZ Audio tweeters and >midranges in the doors. My question is, has anyone squeezed a pair of >subwoofers and an amp behind the seat yet? if so, how was it done and >how big were the subwoofers? sorry to all you guys that don't give a >$%#@ about this topic, but i was just wonderin... :) > > > -paul > (pkn7564@acs.tamu.edu) A friend of mine has done this. He had 2 ten inchers behind the seat with tweeters in a truck box....Worked great...thought he had a blanket over the tweeters so he didn't blow his hears out it was so loud in the cab. -Herman Snodgrass ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 2 Apr 1997 09:38:21 -0800 From: Eric Johnson Subject: Subwoofers.... To: "'Toy4x4@tlca.org'" I had kinda a funny thought: With all this talk about subwoofers, the first thing that crossed my mind was "If you full up the area behind your rear seat with speaker boxes, where do you put your shotgun?" :) - -Eric Still (seriously!) trying to figure out where to mount a gun rack in an '87 4Runner (turkey season opens in two weeks! :) - -- - -- ej@blarg.net ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 2 Apr 1997 20:26:05 -0500 (EST) From: DRM033@aol.com Subject: Subwoofers.... To: Toy4x4@tlca.org In a message dated 97-04-02 15:49:52 EST, you write: > > -Eric > Still (seriously!) trying to figure out where to mount a gun rack in an '87 > 4Runner (turkey season opens in two weeks! :) > -- > -- ej@blarg.net I strap the hard case in the bed of my truck when I head out for the ducks. I figured it would be easy to find a place in the Runner. David DRM033@aol.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 02 Apr 1997 19:28:03 -0800 From: Sterling Rorden Subject: Suspension Travel To: Toy4x4@tlca.org Hi all, Is there a rule of thumb as to what percentage of suspension travel should be in the up direction as opposed to the down (droop) direction? Also, does anybody know the amount of up travel on a stock 1980 4wd pickup? Thanks, Sterling Rorden (rorden@jps.net) ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 3 Apr 1997 03:01:31 -0500 (EST) From: Ironmenn@aol.com Subject: Suspension Travel To: Toy4x4@tlca.org In a message dated 97-04-02 22:44:38 EST, you write: << Also, does anybody know the amount of up travel on a stock 1980 4wd pickup? Thanks, Sterling Rorden (rorden@jps.net) I think that on all stock live axle trucks the upward travel is around 2 inches. John ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 02 Apr 1997 19:52:37 +0000 From: Dylan Keon & Karen Levy Subject: Temperature gauge To: Toy4x4@tlca.org My temp gauge hasn't worked for a long time now...it seems to stick in the low position until the engine warms up, then the needle travels almost to the halfway point and sticks there. It will neither rise nor fall at that point, until I shut off the engine. I replaced the temp sending unit and the t-stat with no luck. So I tore into the dash to have a look and tried to remove the gauge...how the heck do you get it out? Seems like as far as I could get was to remove the temp gauge/oil pressure gauge enclosed unit (SR5 gauges) from the backside. The dealer listed the temp gauge as a single part, so there must be a way to get it out. Any ideas? Thanks, Dylan Keon 1986 Toyota SR5 22RE 4WD longbed ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 02 Apr 1997 21:53:42 -0700 From: Tony Bartlett Subject: torque wrench To: toy4x4@tlca.org One thing someone might do if they really want to know how well the torque wrech works is take it someplace that can calibrate it. If you look in the yellow pages under calibration services there should be some listings. and it should not cost to much. You might even call and ask if they know any manufatures that are better than others. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 02 Apr 1997 09:55:38 -0500 From: Bob Bascom Subject: torque wrenches To: toy4x4@tlca.org I would stay away from the craftsman. I work in the hardware section at sears. The warranty only goes for a year and you have to keep the reciept. We get alot of people who didn't realize they didn't have a lifetime warranty. If you do have a broken tool go to sears and if they refuse ask for "The Pickle" its this lame new customer satisfaction policy based on greasing the sqeuky wheel and something to do with an icecream store. Ryan Bascom '87 4Runner bascom@erols.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 02 Apr 1997 20:23:38 -0800 From: Dave Georgeu <4wdc@ilink.nis.za> Subject: Toy4x4 Digest To: Toy4x4@tlca.org Unsubscribe ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 2 Apr 1997 09:29:12 -0800 From: tech_47 Subject: Toy4x4 Digest V1 #117 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org >hey all, > >i know this message isn't gonna apply to everyone, but i was wondering >if anyone had any stereo tips on this topic. I currently have a kenwood >CD player in my truck (reg cab 4cyl) and some OZ Audio tweeters and >midranges in the doors. My question is, has anyone squeezed a pair of >subwoofers and an amp behind the seat yet? if so, how was it done and >how big were the subwoofers? sorry to all you guys that don't give a >$%#@ about this topic, but i was just wonderin... :) I installed sub's behind my toy. Heres my setup, run 6 lines, with 2 of those being 10'' subs behind the seat. It took me a long time to figure out how to do this, and it still isnt perfect. First, you can fit 12''s but they will realy push on you're seat (this is in a '82 reg cab, should be amlmost the same for all.) If you don't want any presure on you're seat you'll have to jump down to 8's. Bye them unboxed, but not free air. Single voice coil (dual wont fit,) then remove the jack, and all your tools, and pry off the mounts for the jack bar with a pair of pliars. I tryed to hack saw them off put they have to be flush and the saw left a jaged edge. Now you'll have to build a box, I used 3/4' plywood, half inch would work also, I did not use fiber or partical board because the seat will bash it a lot (I have bench seats!!) The 1/2' would lower the height slightly, this would be good. The box's are 13.5''s high and just under 4 inches wide. Note this is less then it should be for good compresion and all but not much of a choice unless you're a very good at fabrication. There is no back on the box, also won't fit! The back of the box should be flush with the box edge. I mounted the speaker with the lip above the hole for to make the box width slightly smaller. I used the gril (make sure its a strong one) from a box from 12's, it goes over the lip perfectly and is big so it gives more protection from the seat. Seal the whole thing (don't use ports, seal it because theres not enough physical volume for proper porting) and fill it more then normal (full) with insilation, fiberglass home stuff works fine. But I good sized layer over the magent. Then push the open box back agianst the trucks cab hard, making sure theres insilation between the magnet and cab so it will not clang and be load duing driveing. Then bolt it from the under the cab, and from behind, and bolt it good. The ribs in the cab will keep it from fiting flush (i tried to cut the wood to match but it left tiny holes that would leak, and the pressure would blow the sealent. So I used a flat box end (not done with this yet) am trying to seal it with plastic junk and Silicon cauk. The amps can be easily mounted under the seat (no prob), I have an amp under each seat, take the seat out and bolt it down. I also have 6x9's under the seat (again custom box) The sub crossover is monted below the seatbelt fastener above the seat for access, and a ohms converter under the lip that the front of the seat bolts to. Wires can be shoved under the seat. Take out the seat during all of this, but put it back in order to make sure the box fits. I can feel the box's, but its worth it for dual 10's. The pressure will crush you in the little toy cab. I also have a set of mids and tweeters (SAS) on the door, the crossovers are are also on the door, none of it is flush mounted. The amp is under the drivers seat. Have fun, wheelin is much improved with a strereo! - --Christian Nousiane- tech_47 nous@goldrush.com - --Christian Nousaine- nous@goldrush.com Apple/NeXT/Sun/SGI/Digital Those who I wished I worked ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 01:35:40 -800 From: "Ken Emanuel" Subject: Trading Turbo AT for 5 Speed To: Toy4x4@tlca.org Hi everyone, A good friend of mine has an '86 Turbo 4-Runner. Unfortunately, the early turbos were only available with automatic transmissions. Not willing to part with his rig, he wants to swap transmissions. My question is for anyone who might have valuable information for this project. So far we know that we need to install new hydraulic clutch linkage, and flywheel, etc. The AT and the 5 speed differ apx. 1 in. in length. This may or may not require a new rear driveshaft. So far our biggest problem has been acquiring a five speed w/ married T-case. The five speeds are not hard to find, but he would ideally prefer to swap. One wrecking yard, here in Sacramento, told us that they don't want the Turbo AT because "they never break." He has been quoted from $750 to $1200 for a Turbo AT w/ T-case. 5 speeds start at around $500, depending on the year. Any information that anyone has for an automatic transmission to 5 speed conversion would be greatly appreciated. Anyone in the market for a Turbo automatic, transfer case, ECT computer, etc? Thanks, Ken Emanuel Emanuel@CSUS.edu 1987 Toyota Xtra Cab SR5 ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 2 Apr 1997 10:36:57 -0500 From: Ed.Wong@astramerck.com Subject: What Torque Wrench to Buy? To: " - (052)toy4x4 (a) tlca.org" Just adding my $0.02 worth.. I had a Craftsman torque wrench fer years - the it started gettin weird (like it wouidl click at 70lbs, not click at 80lbs - so I'd keep turning and then I knew it was just too much so I set it at 90lbns and it clicked w/o turning) I then dropped the $$$ and got a Snap-On wow - that thing is a beauty. And you dont have to reset it to zero! EWong ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 02 Apr 1997 21:38:33 +0000 From: sbever@jeffnet.org Subject: What Torque Wrench to Buy? To: jalford@off-road.com, Toyota 4x4 List Jack Alford wrote: > I bought a Thorsen for $39.99 from > Advanced Auto, it has a lifetime warranty and is quite a healthy > sized tool. What does anyone think of Great Neck? Also, I've seen 3/8" and 1/2" drive wrenches. Is it better to get the 1/2" 10-150ft/lb wrench for most everything, then buy a smaller 3/8" drive torque wrench if you have to torque something in a small place? BTW, are torque wrenches just as accurate using a universal adapter or a 3/8" adapter on a 1/2" drive. I'd assume yes... Thanks again, Scott ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 2 Apr 1997 09:57:04 -0500 From: Ed.Wong@astramerck.com To: " - (052)Toy4x4 (a) tlca.org" Dan Smith was asking about the 10" travel Downey/Rancho combo kit... Jonathan Albrecht was commenting that the Downey kit cant be used on the highway in 4WD. If one looks at the kit - it uses U joints for the inner CVs. While this is mega cheap (compared to CVs - either tulip tripod (stock) or rezeppa (outer) design), U joints dont like operating at extreme angles contantly. OK - so Downey was appealing to the masses and trying to keep the prices down. Looking at a yota half shaft - one realizes that it isnt to hard to 1 - fab a new shaft with splines to match the stock outer CV 2 - make an adapter plate for the inner CV 3 - bolt on yer own rezeppa type CV (hmmm Porche 930?) So Neil Sullivan has done that. His outfit is West Coast Off Road. email is --- mmisullivan @ msn.com His axles cost more than Downey's - but you get back the highway 4WD. He has a photo ad in the back of 4WD and Sport Utility Last I heard he was working on a 14" travel kit that used new upper and lower arms EWong ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 02 Apr 97 10:42:00 mst From: "Roubinet, Paul @ SLG" To: Toy4X4 I was talking with one of the trail leaders at this years J**p safari. He told be that he had two 4Runners on his trail this year and both of them broke their tie-rod ends going through golden crack. He ask me if tie-rods were a known problem with 4Runners. Does anyone know if this is the case? If it is what are the years that had problems? Thanks. ------------------------------ The views expressed in Toy4x4 are those of the individual authors only. Be sure to check out the OFFROAD MAILING LIST. 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