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After
loading up the Rover with all of my stuff and picking up Jan and his stuff
from his house, a more heavily laden than usual Land Rover left Ridgecrest
for Needles early on Friday afternoon. We reached Needles without incident
around dusk, grabbed some fast food and headed off to find the campsite in
the dark. Ironically, the other 3 vehicles had GPS units, and I, the one who
looked up the coordinates didn't. In the dark we overshot the objective by a
few miles. So we turned around and found a rocky dirt track that was about
in the right place. I locked the hubs and started up the trail.
After
about 500 yards I called out on the CB just to see if any of the other
Rovers were in the area. Jim and Lynn answered. They said that Gerry had
also just arrived. During the conversation Jan and I followed the road
towards higher ground. We established that I was really close to the
campsite but couldn't spot their headlights in the dark. Gerry had driven
down to the road to make the correct trail so I turned back. (In the morning
we discovered that literally I had been about 100 yards south of the
campsite and if I had continued on the road I was following, I would have
arrived at the campsite.)
So
we talked a bit, had a small fire and when to bed. I awoke about 30 minutes
later to Rick's D90 arriving.
The
next morning we headed back into Needles to see if anyone else was going to
arrive. None did. So we headed out to the trail. The Mojave Road (aka the
Government Road) was used in the 1860s and stretched from Prescott Arizona
to Camp Cody (near Barstow, California). The section that we were following
was from the Colorado River crossing to 10 miles short of the Camp Cody
site. The path through the desert roughly corresponds to that which the
Mojave Indians took on their way to the Ocean to trade goods. The trail does
not take the easiest route; it takes the shortest route between water. I don't have the book, but I think the Mojave Road was for the most part
abandoned circa 1870 when the southern Rail Road was put in.
The
first bit of the trail rouse out of the Colorado river basin. For the first
few miles of the trail, someone had painted ever single piece of bedrock
that stuck more than an inch out of the dirt with bright red paint. I guess
they were trying to identify the diff killing rocks for people with low
profile tyres.
Lunch
was in a shady grove in Piute Creek. It almost looked civilized with us
sitting on blankets in the shade. At this point we had to get off the trail
and take some newer roads because the Piute Creek section was blocked. (In
Piute creek there are some sandstone rocks with ruts from wagons still in
them and the powers-that-be don't want 4x4s destroying the tracks.) In
vectoring around we came across a 3 to 4 foot tall enscarpment from a wash.
All I told Jan (who was reading) was "Hold on". Then the front end
of the Rover rose towards the sky. (Observers say I lifted a wheel)
Unfortunately I didn't make it and needed to try a different line. One of
the Defenders needed a second try, but we all got up without too much
trouble.
We
had to drive a few more miles on a graded dirt road before we rejoined the
Mojave Road. Lots of wide open spaces. Sandy trails. Despite it getting dark
around 4:30 in the afternoon we found ourselves moving fairly quickly and
were way ahead of schedule. So when we came across a graded dirt road that
lead up to the New York Mountains, we decided to try and find one of the
mines I visited on my previous Mojave Road trip. Now this graded dirt road
was rounded, smooth and could take 4 cars abreast. It was in such good shape
that all one needed to do was pour the pavement. With dust clouds billowing,
we raced 10 or so miles up this road at about 60mph.Now I didn't recall the
exact road that I took last time, but one of the mine names sounded
familiar. And with Rick's GPS we found a trail that went towards that mine.
This trail proved to be fairly interesting. The trail wasn't challenging,
but it was technical driving. We wound our way up a wash and into the hills.
After a number of miles we came about a mine site that was very familiar. We
parked looked around. After looking down a mine entrance and my remark that
I didn't recall seeing a bunch of boulders from a cave in there last time,
we all wisely returned to our vehicles for more trail riding. I knew that
further up the valley was some really technical boulder crawling in a stream
bed so we pressed on.
The
main route in was marked "Keep out", but I knew there was a higher
road, so we looked for that. (And found the easier way into the valley than
we took. After a few wrong turns we found a steep, loose rocky track that
looked familiar. It went up for maybe 150 feet and then down just as steeply
into the stream bed. We traveled up the streambed. Then, maybe 100 yards
short of the mine that we were trying to find, as the streambed got rockier
and rockier we decided to scout ahead. Gerry decide to leave his Disco where
it was and the Defenders and Series III forged on ahead. We even passed the
pink chunk of bedrock (that dented my rear quarter panel the last time I was
there) without incident.
At
the mine site, there was a large pile of tailings from a shaft located maybe
100 feet above the streambed. (Anyone for a winching challenge up a 60+
degree tailing pile?). There was a steep trail up to the shaft. Rick with
lockers for and aft decided that he wanted to get his Defender up there. Now
to paint some the picture. He had to drive off of a 3 foot stream bank into
the streambed (which was not much wider than a D90 is long) and then climb
up the other side which was the valley wall. The other side was loose
(though not tailings) crumbly rock at maybe 45 degrees of slope. If Rick
could get his front wheels up 20 or so feet, he would make it. After moving
some of the larger (200 lb class) rocks, and locking his diffs, Rick make
his attempt. It was too steep. But in attempting, Rick managed to wedge a 6
inch thick, 1.8 foot diameter rock between his frame, rear axle, right rear
tyre and the ground. His D90 still had it's front wheels way of the side of
the trail. So Rick was "between a Rock and a hard place" With a
section of pipe was able to removed the rock with about 10 minutes of work.
(And the LR V8 was happily running with no loss or pressure at this extreme
angle). After that Rick extracted himself.
By
now the light was failing. We headed back down the streambed and up the side
of the mountain. It was full dark as I descended the initial steep rocky
section. Near the bottom, while slowly engine braking in 1st low (and
brakes), my Rover stopped dead. I couldn't back up hill and couldn't go
forward. In fact in neutral I was effectively chocked in place. We found
that I was hooked by a rock on my rear diff. I few well placed rocks and I
lifted the rear end enough to clear the obstacle.
We
drove down a bit to where we had passed a rock cabin site. Here we camped
for the night. The site had a small flat area maybe 30 feet by 40 feet. On
the streambed site there was a small retaining wall at the edge of the flat
area and a stone structure. The structure was a cabin for a miner and most
of the walls were still intact. So imagine if you will a grey stone and
cement cabin with 2 foot thick walls, about 8 feet tall and had an inner
space of about 9 feet by 9 feet. The doorway was about 5 feet wall and faced
the retaining wall and flat area. Inside there was no ceiling, but a
fireplace with chimney was opposite the door. One of the corners near the
fireplace had collapsed at one point and the wall had been rebuilt to about
half height by just stacking the stones. We started dinner outside in a
firering on the flat area, but right after dinner we lit a fire in the
fireplace and extinguished the other one. I hung a dark green, wax
impregnated, canvas tarp over the doorway. The wind gusted, but we sat
around the fire and talked for a number of hours. Rick, Lynn and Jim set up
tents to sleep in. Jan slept under the stars. Gerry Elam and I set up next
to the fire in the cabin. It was a nice campsite for a small group. We could
have fit maybe 4 or 5 more people in there for talking. I'll have to
remember that campsite.
The
next morning dawned and we decided to explore the next valley to the north.
I knew that there were some mines up there, but not exactly where. So we
drove back up and took the easy road over into the next valley. Gerry
mentioned that he was going to start back towards Arizona sometime around
noon or 2pm. Trial up and over was fairly easy, but on the downhill side
recent rains had leaf some 2+ foot deep ruts and it was a little tricky to
maneuver around them. But we soon joined the road up into the next valley.
Since
I have never been on this trail before I was selecting turns at random. We
took a left at a major fork in the road. Soon the trail was steeply climbing
the mountain side. There were a few tight spots between fallen boulders, but
nothing special. Then we rounded a corner and had a most impressive view of
the desert. We spent a while taking photos and just looking around. A stiff
wind was blowing abut that didn't stop all of us from climbing around to the
nearest highpoints.
After
a bit we headed back down and tried the right fork in the trail. Almost
immediately the trail got rougher. About a half a mile later the trail
turned into a steep, rocky, frame and diff damaging track. I stopped to see
if the rest wanted to go on. Gerry wisely decided that his Disco didn't have
the ground clearance. Rick offered to go first since he had the air lockers.
After about a hundred feet he paused at a patch of larger rocks to lock his
diffs. (larger being 1 foot and larger diameters). He easily when on up and
out of sight. I removed the spare from the bonnet and tossed it in the roof
rack so that I could see more of the rocks. I went next in 1st low at about
1000rmp. I got to the point that Rick locked and lost momentum. It took me 4
or 5 attempts (all slowing in 1st low) to get it right and get over the
rocks. Then on up. About 100 feet later I dodged around (well mostly
through) a tree branch and came upon a soft, loose gravelly section and
stopped. I tried 10 or so times but just couldn't get past the spot.
Meanwhile Lynn and Jim had come up behind me. So I got out my sand ladders.
That made all the difference. I was out of there in one attempt. The trail
when up some more and then switched backed twice to get up the tailing. Near
the top was a 15 foot section of ice (and the steep tailing side becking if
you screwed up) and then I was at the mine site. A narrow gauge rail lead
into a 3 foot diameter horizontal shaft from which a small stream of water
flowed. We lined the 3 Rovers up with my blue Series III between the two
black Defender 90s. It was a great picturesque scene and we took a bunch of
photos.
It
was getting on towards noon so we started down. I lead the way, pausing only
to reclaim my sand ladders. I almost made it. Right in the spot where Rick
locked his lockers and I had a hard time the Rover got stuck. I couldn't
back out. We tried adding weight to no avail. I was stuck on both diffs. We
tried adding rocks, but I couldn't get out. So Lynn attempted to winch me
back up the trail. It was a nice winching setup and we even used a snatch
block. On the first pull all we did was pull the Defender forward so we had
to reblock the Defender and pull again. This time it worked and I was pulled
back about 2 feet. Rocks were added so that my diffs would clear and I
started down. Almost at the bottom I paused to gather gear. Someone noticed
that my engine had dropped some 20w-50 while I was stuck, so I pulled head
of the Disco to a flat spot to check.
The
instant I walked behind the Rover to get a rag, I knew something was wrong.
The right rear corner was too low. I peaked underneigth and saw the problem.
The outboard Ubolt on the right side had snapped at the top of the threads.
The Ubolt had bent and dropped the shock mount plate down a few inches on
that side. (The Ubolts clamp down on the shock mount plate to hold the
spring against the axle. The other UBolt was tweaked. And the plate that the
break line attaches to, the one that is supposed to be between the shock
plate and the spring had been kicked out, rerouting the brakeline. Luckily
the brakeline hadn't kinked and wasn't leaking. So I got out the high lift
and jacked up the corner to get the weight off of the ubolts. While everyone
else sat down to eat lunch and watch (and was nice enough to shove food in
my direction periodically --thanks guys!). The Ubolts came off as did the
brakeline plate and the shock mount plate. I pulled out my spares box and
found 2 old Ubolts (I had replaced the existing ones 3 years ago). But the
Ubolts were too short (from the front axle). I puzzled a bit. Then someone
mentioned taking some leaves off of the spring. A grand idea! I undid the
nut and removed the two lowest leaves (the ones that aren't held in by the
bent clips). But the bolt that holds the leaves together isn't threaded that
far. Despair not, I got a big washer from my toolbox to act as a spacer. I
passed the end of the bolt through the shock mount plate, put on the washer
and bolted the plate directly to the spring. Then the Ubolts fit. But I only
had 3 nuts. Luckily the Ubolt nuts are similar in thread to the nuts that
hold the SIII doortops in. So I uses two of those nuts on one side and two
Ubolt nuts on the other and attached everything. I was back in business and
the field repair had only taken 1 hour 15 minutes. Then I looked under the
Rover for more damage. There are now 2 dents in the oils pan and the
crossmember under the bellhousing is severely bent and crushed. The
bellhousing is resting on the crossmember in fact. It looks like it had 4 or
5 big hits (I didn't head any). And now my front propshaft is scored from
rubbing on deformed crossmember while the axle articulated. the rear
propshaft and both diffs show where they rubbed against rocks, but are
undamaged. The oil leak proved to just be my valve cover gasket which
started leaking recently. For the most part on the weakened side the axles
was resting on the bump stops.
So
a much subdued Ben lead everyone down the hill towards the dirt
superhighway. I was very careful to minimize the bumps. At the dirt highway
Gerry took off headed for home and we drove back towards the Mojave Road. We
found it and soon were headed for Rock Creek. More desert miles and a steep
decent into a wash were our next encounters. Right after Rock creek we had
to join a graded dirt road to go over a pass. The last few miles of the road
were actually paved with MacAdam. Then back to the dirt again. The terrain
in front of us is called Cima Dome. On paper the contour lines are
concentric circles. But the slope is so gentle that you can't tell that it
is a dome. It just looks like a gentle slope desert. The guide books
mentioned that before cattle came the water ran smoothly off of the dome.
Cattle compacted the soil an now the whole dome is covered with little
washed. So we had 4 miles of slow going on a rough road. The sun was going
down and we finally got to better road where we could pick up the pace. A
few miles later we came to a few hundred foot tall rocky hill with some
massive boulders that formed semi wind break. We decided to camp there. No
roads nor lights were anywhere in sight.
We
camped in the lee of a large boulder and strategically parked the three
Rovers to block the wind between the boulder and the hillside. All night the
wind blew in gusts with a few calm periods. The fire was placed on the lee
side of the rock. We huddled around the fire, ate, drank, talked and waited
for midnight to toast the new year. It's a long time to wait when it gets
dark around 4:30pm. Lynn, Jim and Jan didn't make it. Right at midnight Rick
and I said "Happy New Year" and then Rick turned in for the night.
I spent the next half hour nursing my last beer and watching the fire.
Monday
dawned with a lot more miles to go. More desert roads, Marl Springs and on
past some lava flows. The trail was soft sand and I picked up the pace quite
a bit. Soon I was zooming around bends and getting up to 40mph on the
straight aways. The Rover swayed too and fro as I skidded around turns. I
was having a blast. And then I spied a bunch of bumps near some embedded
lava boulders. I was trying to avoid the bumps to avoid the shock on my
Ubolts. So at maybe 30mph I dodged right then left to miss the first rock
which aimed me at the next one. An even sharper turn avoided that one and
started the skid. I was headed right for the lava enscarpment (maybe 3 feet
tall at this point) and cut back sharply to the left. I lost the rear end
and is skidded thought the sand leaving foot deep furoughs. As I was
correcting out of the skid we slowed down to maybe 5mph and leaned way over.
Not quite enough to go over. Of course all though this all of my load from
in back shifted dramatically. Lynn was behind me and said that she wished
she had a video camera to record my swaying and skidding. Heck, I had a huge
jolt of adrenaline out of the event. It all happen so quick all I could do
was react. Then afterwards the adrenaline hits. Funny that.
Next
was the descent to Soda Lake. Since it had rained a week before I was worried
that the lake bed might be so muddy that it wasn't passable. As we got to
the dusty bottom of the lake bed we paused to airdown the tyres. We decided
to order the Rovers based on traction (least in front)--My Series III then
Lynn's D90 then Rick's with the airlockers. We kept a large following
distance. And our fears proved to be unfounded. The path across the lake bed
was mostly dry and only minimally muddy towards the end.
The
terrain turned to sand as we entered the Mojave River wash. As Rick
mentioned we spotted a white gazebo on top of a sandy dune. It was noon and
the gazebo looked so out of place, but was a good place for lunch. Upon
closer inspection the gazebo had a fresh coat of paint, some wicker chairs
and a chained anchor affixed it to the ground. It even had a weathered brass
rooster wind vane on it's top. We had a grand lunch sitting on the wicker
chairs in the sunny calm air with, of course, the grey poupon.
After
lunch we set out back on the trail, but my navigational skills failed me.
Instead of following the Mojave Road through off road park I ended up on a
trail the quickly converged to that of only 4 wheel ATV tracks. The trail
was fun enough, but kept on taking us father off coarse. We didn't spot any
cross trails, and eventually ended up on a graded dirt road near I-15. A few
quick miles and we rejoined the Mojave Road. At this point the road follows
the wash into Afton Canyon. Steep walls grew on both sides. Eventually, we
encountered water (traveling up stream). I play in the shallow streams a bit
was we passed through until I splashed enough that the engine started to run
rough. All to soon we got to the point at which the wash was blocked with a
cable and posts are were forced to get on a graded dirt road.
This
road had a bunch of ups and downs. Previously I had successfully navigated
some small, shallow puddles. But the last one, more of a small stream
crossing at in the bottom of a larger dip was my undoing. I even slowed down
and got into first gear. But I hit it too hard and drowned the engine. I was
only hub deep and maybe 2 or 3 Rover lengths wide, but I didn't make it out.
So with grumbles and curses at might self I use my Rover like a set of
monkey bars to crawl all over and still stay dry. Rick offered to pull me
out, but I refused. The WD-40 came out and I sprayed down the cables. The
first attempt didn't start Dora. Rick said that I had one more shot and then
he was going to pull me out. I was blocking the road and all. So I pulled
the distributer and pulled the rotor. Only the rotor popped out of my hands
and dropped between the engine and the fan. More curses in Dora's general
direction. I looked for a spare rotor in the dash, but didn't find one in
good shape. So I grumbled, took off my shoes and socks and got in the 6
inches of water. I was going to reach under an get the rotor when I realized
that it was behind the axles. Bugger. So I got her in neutral and started to
push her into deeper water. The others pitched in. And I retrieved the
rotor. After WD-40ing and drying everything I got in. Just then a red Jeep
Wagoneer showed up. Great, now a Jeep sees a stalled Rover. Dora cranked
over a bit and then started right up with a little bit of stumbling. I
pulled her up the hill to a flat spot (no working tranny brake) and reloaded
everything.
About
here was the end of the road for us. We decided that it wasn't worth the
time to drive the last 10 miles as the site of Camp Cody is on private
property and nothing remains. And it's tricky to find a way out around the
private property. We also were getting low on fuel and weren't quite sure if
we had enough to make it. So we drove out on the graded dirt road and joined
the madhouse on I-15.
I
had fun. I assume the others had fun. And Jan wants to go on other Rover
trips. He even mentioned that if I came across a $2000 SIIA 88 he would be
interested.
So,
same time, next year?
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