The LUMENITION-OPTRONIC IGNITION (that's the proper denomination) is manufactured by

Lumenition, Division of
Autocar Equipment Ltd.,
77/85 Newington Causeway,
London SE1 6BJ, Great Britain
tel: 44+ 1-403-4334
fax: 44+ 1-378-1270

When asking for info state the precise details of your car, e.g. model, year, engine + distributor type, voltage, possibly model and year of manufacture of distributor, and whatever else comes to your mind. Apparently there are dozens of variations, and the prices also differ considerably. I've just been told that the current retail price for a Lumenition fitting the french Ducellier 4-cyl. distr. costs a staggering $ 260.- Double that, and you've probably got the price for the V8 version... Oh well, I guess that's what patents are all about: inventing something, and then cashing in (courtesy of Bill Gates). Maybe we ought to invent a patent of our own. How about this one: A Land Rover gear box that *doesn't leak* (:-/)

bye for now,
stefan r. jacob, <100043.2400@compuserve.com>
LROC of Hessen
Wiesbaden, Germany

and here is some more that might be of interest -

>What all does this system do? It basically does
>away with points and condensors
>right - ie the low voltage end of things.
>The high tension side remains the same
>- yes??

Precisely.-

>What happens if this system failed -
>how hard would it be to put a set of
>points and condensor in to get the car running again.

Well, Lumenitions do occasionally fail - rarely, though - under extreme thermic conditions (desert!). My (tested) advice:

Get yourself a second inner base plate from a scrap distributor - make sure it's the exact same manufacture, compare it with the one inside your own distr. Now, *before* you start installing the Lumenition, get a new set of contact points plus condensor, install, and for a last time set the timing and tune the engine. Then remove the base plate together with the correctly set points and condensor on it (if you have a model with the condensor inside the distr., if not leave the condensor attached to the distr.), wrap it up nicely, preferably in wax paper to prevent rusting, and stow it dry and accessible inside the car somewhere (save the old rotor arm too). Fit the 'blank' scrap base plate into your distributor, and on that you install the Lumenition. Should the Lumenition konk out, all you have to do is remove the plate with the defunct Lumenition, put your original plate with the pre-set contacts back in, re-connect condensor, rotor arm, coil and suction pipe (in case it was detached), and off you go. The whole procedure shouldn't take longer than a refueling stop. Just take care you don't drop and lose those teeny-weeny screws that hold the base plate...

BTW, if the ignition fails in a car fitted with Lumention you shouldn't *immediately* conclude that it's the Lumention; it could just as well be a burnt-out coil or a plain loose wire behind the dashboard. Do some extra checking before you tear apart the Lumeniton for nothing.

Cheers,

Stefan <100043.2400@compuserve.com>

and one more comment.

Several folks have mentioned Luminition as of late. I have one thing to say...I fitted it six years ago *and havn't touched my ignition since.* That's about 60,000 miles worth.

Fitment is straightforward...it takes longer to read/figure out the instructions than it does to do the actual work. The confusing part is a reference to a "ballast resistor" (which reduces the voltage to the coil after starting) which the Rover does not sport. Don't make the mistake of mounting the control unit up high near the coil...it's one of the hottest places in the engine bay. Mount the CU on a wing or out of the way somewhere to stay cooler.

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