Toyota 4x4 digest:     Thursday, October 29 1998     Volume 02 : Number 157
 -   Toyota 4x4 Mailing List  (Toy4x4)   ---
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 downy headers
 Re: Bending drag link
 Re: Removing rear axle
 Re: 4.56 Gears w/33" Tires (was 13th Annual PVD)
 Re: downy headers
 Re: Axle forward..(Spring Swap)
 re; IFS
 Re: Removing Rear Axle
 Re: shift into 4WD
 "gearless locker?"
 Re: "gearless locker?"
 RE: **brake and suspension advice needed**
 Winch wiring help
 Re: Bending drag link
 Re: Bending drag link
 Bio
 RE: Winch wiring help (electric's 101)
 Re: air valve
 Re: New 4Runner Hood scoop
 Re: **brake and suspension advice needed**
 Bio Info
 Re: back from being broke
 Re: Bending drag link
 RE:Help Getting my 22RE running
 Re: Cam timing
 Help getting 22RE running
 TSB Information
 Re: 4.56 Gears w/33" Tires (was 13th Annual PVD)
 Gearless locker
 late model 5 speed
 Re: back from being broke
 welcome
 Driveshafts
 Re: Axle forward..(Spring Swap)
 Bio-Sheet
 Mystery w/92 4Runner
 All wheel drive / 4 Wheel Drive
 Re: 4.56 Gears w/33" Tires (was 13th Annual PVD)
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 22:45:11 EST
 From: MikeG135@aol.com
 Subject: downy headers
 I was wondering if anyone has tried upgrading to the downy headers to their
 3.0 liter v6.
 Mike Grzeskiewicz
 1994 t-100 4x4
 ============================================================================
 Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 19:52:11 -0800
 From: "Sterling Rorden"  Subject: Re: Bending drag link>Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 09:12:58 +0000>From: "Jay Kopycinski" >Subject: Bending drag link>>A few comments here:>>(1) Once you bend it it will be too short for full lock steering.
 Where I plan to bend it I should loose less that 1/4" in "ball to ball"
 length.  I should still be able to get full lock in both directions.>(2) What will heating do to the draglink?......if ya gotta ask.......
 This is why I would like to find someone else that has heated/welded on a
 drag link.  It looks like it has machined out of bar stock, but it could be
 forged.  I will probably weld on a brace as Chris Geiger suggests if I bend
 it.>(3) Is it worth $60-70 to you to do it with a proven part and avoid the>possibility of lossing steering control?
 This is why I am deliberating this.  If I don't get some good answers I will
 by the "proven part", although I am not thrilled with the "S" shape.
 Thanks for your input
 Sterling
 ============================================================================
 Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 21:27:33 -0800
 From: "Kenneth Sigel"  Subject: Re: Removing rear axle
 $300 sounds about right.  I thought you meant $300 just to press the
 bearings off and on.
 - -Ken
 - -----Original Message-----
 From: Chris Geiger  To: toy4x4@tlca.org  Date: Wednesday, October 28, 1998 6:29 PM
 Subject: Re: Removing rear axle>>>Ouch!  I paid $25 at the local 4 Wheel Parts for each side.>>$300 included new toyota bearings, seals and the little ring thinggy and>the labor
 Chris Geiger
 ============================================================================
 Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 23:15:26 -0800
 From: Ken Emanuel  Subject: Re: 4.56 Gears w/33" Tires (was 13th Annual PVD)> I'm currently running 33s w/5.29's.  If I had 4.88's I wouldn't bother with> regearing again since that is pretty close to stock.  I plan on making a> couple of long trips next year and would really love to go faster than 65> mph again.  The 4.56s are also stronger than the 4.88s and 5.29s.
 I can't imagine what that's like!  I think I figured that going from 31"
 to 32" tires will only drop me about 100 RPMs at 75 MPH.   I guess
 that's better than nothing, but I'm still no where near the 2600-2800
 RPM range that would be ideal at ~70 MPH.
 On the other hand, I raced a new Jeep TJ twice this evening and I
 *EASILY* dusted the guy.  He left the light before it turned green and I
 was past him before I left 1st gear.  Funny thing is that I ended up
 shifting at 4200 RPMs because I couldn't hear my engine over his 4.0 L 6
 cylinder!  He was speed shifting too!  Part of it must be the gearing.
 *-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*
 Ken Emanuel                     Emanuel@csus.edu
 '94 Xtra Cab SR5 V6             Sacramento, CA
 http://webpages.csus.edu/~sac75830/toystuff.htm
 *-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*
 ============================================================================
 Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 21:33:56 -0800
 From: Scott Wilson  Subject: Re: downy headers
 MikeG135@aol.com wrote:>> I was wondering if anyone has tried upgrading to the downy headers to their> 3.0 liter v6.
 Yes, I just added them to my 88 4Runner last month.  I LOVE them.  Huge
 performance increase.  A -DETAILED- product review will be made public
 in the next few days.  Stay tuned.
 Scott
 - --
 _____
 /_/_|_\__      Scott Wilson
 | _     _ :     Santa Clara, CA
 */_\---/_\'     http://www.off-road.com/~swilson
 (_)   (_)
 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
 ============================================================================
 Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 21:46:06 -0800 (PST)
 From: Christain Brunini  Subject: Re: Axle forward..(Spring Swap)
 Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 08:43:08 EST
 From: "james stevenson"  Subject: Re: Axle forward..(Spring Swap)
 The stock front springs are 43.4in long (flat) the FJ springs are
 43.84in the If you take a ranch 3in lift spring as a guide they have a
 330Lb rate and 4.3in arch. Or to put it another way the truck reduces
 the arch by 1.3in at rest to get a 3in lift which equals 429Lbs. The FJ
 spring have 341Lbs and 6.2in arch. Working backwards with the 429Lbs
 this will compress the spring 1.25in giving a 5in lift.  James how do you fit FJ40 springs when the spring width of FJ40
 springs are 70mm while hilux springs are only 60mm???    Do you have
 to use different size U-bolts and plates ???
 Also spring eye diameter are 35mm for fj40 and 30mm for hilux???
 How are you able to put fj40 springs in a hilux ????
 Thanks Christian.
 ==
 _______
 Christian Brunini                       /_/__|__\__
 Chris_brunini@yahoo.com                 |_.--.__,--;
 1985 'TONKA' 4Runner                    ~'(__)'`(__)
 5.0lt V8 efi, 6" lift 35" BFG      `'`'`''`'`'`''``'`'`'`'`
 _________________________________________________________
 DO YOU YAHOO!?
 Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
 ============================================================================
 Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 21:49:28 -0700
 From: David Fritzsche  Subject: re; IFS
 no but seriously i couldent agree more with you on
 the marlin subject too bad he dont make em for my truck!
 You never know, there may be a 5-speed in your feature!!!!!!!!!!
 David Fritzsche, 1990 V-6 Ex-Cab, Roseville, CA otto@inreach.com
 ============================================================================
 Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 22:17:25 -0800
 From: Jim Brink  Subject: Re: Removing Rear Axle
 Steve Harron wrote:>>>         I used a die grinder to CAREFULLY cut the bearing most of the way> through.  Then you can break it off with a hammer and chisel.
 I always (and still do) use this method of Steve's. Never heard of a
 Toyota dealer that didn't do rear wheel bearing replacement...Bunch a
 sissies up there in Santa Barbara, eh Chris? :-)
 - --
 Jim Brink, Manhattan Beach, CA                   toytech@off-road.com
 Toyota/ASE Certified Technician      http://www.off-road.com/~toytech/
 **********************************************************************
 1986 Std. Bed 4WD  -   TLCA  -  Friends of the Mojave Road  -  CA4WDC
 ============================================================================
 Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 22:22:17 -0800
 From: Jim Brink  Subject: Re: shift into 4WD
 Scott Wilson wrote:>> Jeff Samler wrote:>>>> Well you said that ADD was not available until 1990 but my '89 SR5 V6>> 5-speed pick up must have ADD because the driveline in front is always>> spinning, which is why I am going to add warn premium manual hubs.  But>> I have tried to shift into 4WD on the fly and the lever won't move, do I>> have to engage the clutch or something?  What's up with this whole>> situation?  I don't want to force the lever as I don't want to do>> damage.  Thanks.>> Hmmm...maybe somebody knows better than me.   Perhaps ADD was was> availible on the trucks in 89?   I think it was availible on 4runners in> 90.
 Yep, ADD was available in 1989 on  SR-5s. I remember going to class to
 learn about it...
 - --
 Jim Brink, Manhattan Beach, CA                   toytech@off-road.com
 Toyota/ASE Certified Technician      http://www.off-road.com/~toytech/
 **********************************************************************
 1986 Std. Bed 4WD  -   TLCA  -  Friends of the Mojave Road  -  CA4WDC
 ============================================================================
 Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 01:18:39 -0500
 From: Bill  Subject: "gearless locker?">  Four Wheeler>  October 1998>  "The Differential Revolution">  by Ben Stewart
 This stuff is all very familiar.....is there an echo in here?   :-P
 Hey,.. I sent mine late at night... before the last issue was sent
 out... they must have crossed in the ether.
 Bill Miranda
 TLCA# 7390
 1990 4Runner SR5/V6
 K&N, Dynomax
 GPS, 240 ch CB
 Toyota front brush guard soon (From "Ft Knox")
 other stuff
 ============================================================================
 Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 01:59:21 EST
 From: Iwheel4x4@aol.com
 Subject: Re: "gearless locker?"> Hey,.. I sent mine late at night... before the last issue was sent>  out... they must have crossed in the ether.
 I guess great minds think alike!  Did I say great?  I meant sick....sick minds
 think alike!
 Allen Dickenson     -   IWheel4x4@aol.com         TLCA #6318
 1995 4Runner - "FT KNOX" - Downey 1.5" rear lift springs, torsion bars
 cranked, Rancho RS9000?s front, RS5000?s rear, 31x10.5 BFG A/T?s, K&N
 Filtercharger, extended diff. breathers, low-profile bumpstops, Smittybilt
 Nerf Bars, Warn Premium hubs, Cobra 18-Ultra CB, Viper C-70 alarm. - Coming
 Soon:  ARB Bull Bar
 ============================================================================
 Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 23:09:48 -0800
 From: "Devin Noel"  Subject: RE: **brake and suspension advice needed**
 Can you feel the brake pedal vibrating? My parents Volvo had that problem,
 so I did a brake job and found (as I suspected) that the rotors were warped.
 As they turned they would press unevenly on the brake pads, causing the
 pedal (and the rest of the car to a lesser degree) to pulsate.
 Devin Noel> I have a 1987 4Runner, 5spd, SR5, 22RE, all original, 190k> Problems: Sometimes when I am braking, I hear a vibrating noise that> sounds like it is coming from the front. I dont always get it. If i brake> hard, usually nothing. Soft and i hear a squeal. With medium pressure,> it sounds like something is rubbing. Also when i run over bumps, i> sometimes hear a thug comming from the suspension. what can it be?> bearings? rotor out of balance? the pads on all four wheel are in great> shape. any advice is appreciated. george mihalik
 ============================================================================
 Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 00:22:49 -0800
 From: Dan Boucher  Subject: Winch wiring help
 I have a Tensen Tx2 winch.  It is a little older but the wiring is
 similar to a Warn 8274.  I seem to have pooched the solenoids as it only
 goes click when I try to engage it in or out.  The winch was rated at
 12000lbs.  It came with the truck and never seemed to pull like an old
 8274 I had.  Is is possible for the winch to work if one or more of the
 solenoids are fried.  I am not an electrician.  I am thinking maybe it
 was only working on half the solenoids and shorting(maxing) out because
 of lack of true battery hookup.  Another question in relation to wiring
 how does it differentiate between in and out?  Are two solenoids used
 for in and two for out? Or do all of them work at the same time.  Help
 me.  I know the basic principles of how the winch works.  Power to the
 motor via the solenoids activated by the switch but which way does the
 current go?
 Thanks
 Dan Boucher
 84 Toy Excab 6"  33" BFG MT Lockright rear  Forerunner rollbar broken
 winch
 ============================================================================
 Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 23:28:25 -0800
 From: Chris Geiger  Subject: Re: Bending drag link> I am not thrilled with the "S" shape.
 I saw one of those fold on the Rubicon this summer. After I pounded it back
 into shape another guy welded 2 wrenches onto it and it held for the rest
 of the trail.
 - --
 Chris Geiger 93 4Runner http://www.off-road.com/~geiger
 Off-Road.Com Toyota section editor, Album page editor
 ============================================================================
 Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 23:52:21 -0800
 From: Jim Brink  Subject: Re: Bending drag link
 Chris Geiger wrote:>>> I am not thrilled with the "S" shape.>> I saw one of those fold on the Rubicon this summer. After I pounded it back> into shape another guy welded 2 wrenches onto it and it held for the rest> of the trail.
 I hope they weren't Snap-On wrenches...
 - --
 Jim Brink, Manhattan Beach, CA                   toytech@off-road.com
 Toyota/ASE Certified Technician      http://www.off-road.com/~toytech/
 **********************************************************************
 1986 Std. Bed 4WD  -   TLCA  -  Friends of the Mojave Road  -  CA4WDC
 ============================================================================
 Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 01:01:44 -0700
 From: Joey Consos  Subject: Bio
 Name:Joey Consos
 City & State: San Luis Obispo, CA
 Country:USA
 E-mail address:jconsos@calpoly.edu
 Toyota (s) year & model:1993 Toyota Short Bed 4x4
 Are you a TLCA Member (Y/N/Number?): Yes
 Age:19
 Occupation:Student
 Marital Status:Single
 Hobbies:cars/trucks, photography, tennis
 How did you find out about the Toyota 4x4 Mailing List:I am already on the list I am
 just changing email addresses
 General info about your vehicle, self, etc.:I am a student at Cal Poly, San Luis Obispo
 studying art and design with emphsis in photography.  My truck is pretty much stock
 except for 31" BFG AT's, a K&N, a Leer Shell, and an Alpine CD player with Infinity and
 Kicker Speakers.
 ============================================================================
 Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 01:10:00 -0800
 From: "Devin Noel"  Subject: RE: Winch wiring help (electric's 101)
 When wiring up something to a vehicle (such as a winch) 1 lead is hooked to
 the battery (usually by a fuse), and the other end is attached to the frame.
 The frame is wired directly to the negative terminal of the battery. If you
 brake the connection anywhere along the system, it won't work. 99% of the
 time the switch (a relay, or solenoid is just an electrically operated
 switch) is located between the positive terminal, and the load. For all
 PRACTICAL (theoretical stuff aside) electricity flows from positive to
 negative.
 Here are some electrical analogies I've found useful:
 volts = electrical pressure (water pressure)
 amps = electrical flow (gallons per minute)
 wire gauge = diameter of pipe
 insulation thickness = thickness of pipe wall's
 As for the winch specific stuff, I have no Idea, as I have never owned or
 used a winch.
 Devin Noel> I have a Tensen Tx2 winch.  It is a little older but the wiring is> similar to a Warn 8274.  I seem to have pooched the solenoids as it only> goes click when I try to engage it in or out.  The winch was rated at> 12000lbs.  It came with the truck and never seemed to pull like an old> 8274 I had.  Is possible for the winch to work if one or more of the> solenoids are fried.  I am not an electrician.  I am thinking maybe it> was only working on half the solenoids and shorting(maxing) out because> of lack of true battery hookup.  Another question in relation to wiring> how does it differentiate between in and out?  Are two solenoids used> for in and two for out? Or do all of them work at the same time.  Help> me.  I know the basic principles of how the winch works.  Power to the> motor via the solenoids activated by the switch but which way does the> current go?
 ============================================================================
 Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 01:25:07 -0800
 From: Jim Brink  Subject: Re: air valve
 Tim Brewers wrote:>> What exacly does the air valve do?   According to my haynes manual it says> to screw the idle speed screw all the way.  If the engine is cold the idle> should go down and if the engine is warm the idle shouldn't change.  My idle> goes down when the engine is warm,  supposedly meaning my air valve is bad.> Has anyone had this problem before?  How much is a new air valve?  Can you> fix the old one?  Thanks for the help.
 The air valve adjusts the amount of intake air that bypasses the closed
 throttle plate to regulate engine idle speed. The air valve opens for
 cold engine operation (fast idle speed) and for idle up needs like when
 the A/C and power steering load the engine and the idle speed needs to
 be adjusted to maintain the specified idle speed.
 New air valves run close to $200 but I'll bet your's is just sludged up.
 The throttle body could probably use a good a cleaning too if the air
 valve is dirty. Give them a good cleaning with carbutetor or throttle
 body spray cleaner.
 Hope this helps.
 - --
 Jim Brink, Manhattan Beach, CA                   toytech@off-road.com
 Toyota/ASE Certified Technician      http://www.off-road.com/~toytech/
 **********************************************************************
 1986 Std. Bed 4WD  -   TLCA  -  Friends of the Mojave Road  -  CA4WDC
 ============================================================================
 Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 01:52:17 -0800
 From: Jim Brink  Subject: Re: New 4Runner Hood scoop
 Iwheel4x4@aol.com wrote:>>> Nope, not a blower under there (not from the factory). The hood scoop is>>  part of the 1999s SR-5 "Sports Package" that also includes 16" tires and>>  wheels, larger front brakes, sport seats, fender flares, fog lights,>>  etc., etc.>> Does it serve any purpose other than cosmetic?  I saw my first '99 4Runner> this morning, and I must say, it looks really cool.
 Uh, it looks neato. That's about all it does.
 - --
 Jim Brink, Manhattan Beach, CA                   toytech@off-road.com
 Toyota/ASE Certified Technician      http://www.off-road.com/~toytech/
 **********************************************************************
 1986 Std. Bed 4WD  -   TLCA  -  Friends of the Mojave Road  -  CA4WDC
 ============================================================================
 Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 09:07:48 -0500
 From: "Karl Bellve, Ph.D."  Subject: Re: **brake and suspension advice needed**
 Devin Noel wrote:>>         Can you feel the brake pedal vibrating? My parents Volvo had that problem,> so I did a brake job and found (as I suspected) that the rotors were warped.> As they turned they would press unevenly on the brake pads, causing the> pedal (and the rest of the car to a lesser degree) to pulsate.>> Devin Noel>>> I have a 1987 4Runner, 5spd, SR5, 22RE, all original, 190k>> Problems: Sometimes when I am braking, I hear a vibrating noise that>> sounds like it is coming from the front. I dont always get it. If i brake>> hard, usually nothing. Soft and i hear a squeal. With medium pressure,>> it sounds like something is rubbing. Also when i run over bumps, i>> sometimes hear a thug comming from the suspension. what can it be?>> bearings? rotor out of balance? the pads on all four wheel are in great>> shape. any advice is appreciated. george mihalik>> ============================================================================> Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
 Actually, I get the same grinding noise and I have brand new calipers,
 rotors and pads. If I hit the brakes harder, it goes away. And it
 doesn't always happen. It felt it was coming from my right caliper and I
 took a look at it and it and the rotor was fine. I should have pulled
 the pads and inspected them since I was on a recent 4x4 trip where there
 was plenty of sand. However, I don't think it is sand, since I also
 notice I lost the anti-rattle spring on that caliper. The other caliper
 is fine. I bet when I replace it, the noise will go away.
 - --
 Cheers,
 Karl Bellve, Ph.D.                   ICQ # 13956200
 Biomedical Imaging Group             TLCA# 7938
 University of Massachusetts
 Email: kdb@molmed.ummed.edu
 Phone: (508) 856-6514
 Fax:   (508) 856-1840
 ============================================================================
 Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 08:18:39 -0600
 From: Haas Cory  Subject: Bio Info
 Name:Cory Haas
 City & State: Cedar Rapids, IA
 Country:U.S.A.
 E-mail address: cory_haas@cmfz.com
 Toyota (s) year & model:1989 4Runner Sr5
 Are you a TLCA Member (Y/N/Number?): No :-(
 Age: 25
 Occupation: Network Engineer
 Marital Status: Single
 Hobbies: Wheelin, Mtn. Biking, Snowboarding (waiting for snow),
 Rollarblading, Anything
 How did you find out about the Toyota 4x4 Mailing List: I have been on the
 list for a while but just switched jobs (and e-mail), so I thought I would
 fill out a bio for the first time...
 General info about your vehicle, self, etc.: When you think of stock you
 think of my truck, It's a '89 Runner with 31x10.50 Bridgestones.  It is an
 Auto that drives like a dog.  This list will be the savior for my Runner and
 make it more fun to drive...( I hate downshifting on the highway!)
 ============================================================================
 Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 08:22:55 +0000
 From: "Jay Kopycinski"  Subject: Re: back from being broke
 Hollis Ferris  wrote:>Jay Kopycinski wrote:>>> Having a solid axle up front doesn't necessarily mean you won't break.>> I do think the IFS is weaker and makes for a weaker suspension system>> due to airing one front tire more often (placing greater stress on the one>> left on the ground).......but I've also seen guys with beefed vehicles that>> still broke plenty of parts because they didn't understand how to pick lines,>> or abused their equipment, or just plain did not understand how to drive>> without placing tremendous strains on their driveline.>Well if your implying that I dont know how to choose the right lines>and thats the reason I broke, your wrong, I think Brandon can atest to>the fact that I definatly know how to drive and that its not the reason>I broke. Why do you people have a hard time seeing that I broke because>my suspension is holding me up???????
 No, Hollis, that is not what I meant at all. I'm sorry if I made it sound that
 way. I was just making a general statement that too many people believe
 that swapping up to a live axle or beefier parts will cure all breakage
 problems. Breaks can still happen no matter how careful you drive or what
 line you may choose. For instance, I know when I wheel I can't follow some
 of the lines the rock buggies and some Jeeps use due to my sheetmetal
 concerns or the strength of my drivetrain or my tire size.
 It does sound that you are at a level of wheeling possibly beyond the
 reliable capabilities of your IFS. I think maybe Chris is finding the same
 in his case.
 Is that any better.....or am I in hot water?  ;-)
 Jay Kopycinski    '85 Toylet  (ROKTOY)
 ============================================================================
 Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 08:32:01 +0000
 From: "Jay Kopycinski"  Subject: Re: Bending drag link
 "Roger Brown, P.E."  wrote:>Among the differences I noticed between my stock draglink and the Superlift>dropped version was the ends of the Superlift were "fatter" that the stock>one, making the fit tighter.  When I tried running 4 leaves and a 3 degree>shim on the driver's side, the dropped link wouldn't fit while the stock one>did.  Also, the stock drag link grease fitting is on the out-side, while the>Superlift places it on the down-side, further reducing clearance.
 I have heard of a few cases where the dropped draglinks can still hit
 something (can't recall what) under some conditions.
 Also, one down side that Steve Benson once pointed out to me is the
 fact that the ball-socket ends they use are identical. The draglinks are
 spring loaded on one end of each ball. The stock unit has it so when
 you push or pull on the draglink only one spring is in action at any
 one time. With the Superlift one, there is no spring action in one
 direction and 2 springs in action in the other direction. This makes
 the draglink a little quirky. Steve told me the guys in MN had gone
 to tightening the Superlift ones past the factory spec. This helps remove
 some of the excess slop without overlky tightening the ball and socket.
 Jay Kopycinski    '85 Toylet   (ROKTOY)
 ============================================================================
 Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 09:41:02 -0500
 From: Michael Nelson  Subject: RE:Help Getting my 22RE running
 From: Kath Courtney  To: toy4x4@tlca.org  Date: October 24, 1998 1:22 PM
 Subject: Help getting my 22RE running>I got my rebuilt 22re into my '86 4Runner (finally) and now it won't
 start.>Actually it'll start right up for about a second then immediately die.
 I>suspect an EFI system problem since I know I'm getting a spark to all 4>cylinders and the ignition timing is correct.  So is cam timing, valve>clearances and compression (as one would hope on a new engine).  The
 EFI
 system>is all taken from the old motor and worked fine until being swapped
 over.>>Possibilities:>>1.  I might have gotten one or another of the many vac hoses on the
 intake>manifold mixed up (labels fell off and I had to guess).  If anyone has
 any>suspicions about how this might cause my problem I 'd love to hear
 them.>>2.  Loose electrical connection somewhere.  I'm pretty sure I got all
 the
 plugs>back in the right places and secured properly, but I guess a screw up
 here
 is>possible too.>>3.  I put in a new EFI fuel filter while the engine was bare, but I
 can't>imagine this screwing up the fuel system.>>Any ideas ??>>HELP!>>Fred Vachss>'86 4Runner (275K miles on engine #1, 0 miles on #2).
 This sounds like a similar situation i was in.  It took me a week (and
 several disassembles of my manifold) to figure out that my mass air flow
 sensor had been unplugged.  If your getting fuel pressure, that would be
 my bet.
 ============================================================================
 Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 09:38:41 -0600 (CST)
 From: Brian Wiencek  Subject: Re: Cam timing> Ok... I don't understand this whole cam timing thing.  From what I read> in the Toyota manual, the cam timing is not adjustable w/o an adjustable> cam gear.  After I put the engine together (LC Engineering Cam), it just> didn't run right, so I dropped it off at Toyota last Friday to have them> do a quick Diag.  Their diagnosis?  Cam timing is off.  Hmm...  How's> that possible???  Jim?  Can some explain that to me?  I followed the LC> Engineering/Toyota Factory manual to a "T" when assembling the engine,> so I'm WAY confused by how the Cam Timing can be off when not using an> adjustable cam gear...
 There are acouple of things - first - did you have your head milled or the
 block decked?  Are you mixing pre-84.8 parts with post 84.8 parts? (i.e
 timing chain, block or head?)  Remember the pre-84.8 stuff has a taller
 center-to-center measurement - that means that the chain is longer and the
 deck height of the head is taller.
 Are they saying the cam is advanced or
 retarded?  There could be a manufacturing problem with the cam where the
 pin hole in the front was drilled several degrees off (not likely)  I'm
 sure you're not off 1 tooth on either sprocket - that would be an awful
 lot (top gear would be like 7-8 degrees???)
 Also are they using LC's specs to index the cam based on crank rotation
 (i.e. degreeing in the cam)  Without knowing what the profile of the
 cam is supposed to be and when the engineers expected it to open/close
 you're taking a guess at all this Have the toyota mechanics check this
 and if it's way off call LC and ask for a replacement cam - it shouldn't
 be that far off unless you've got mixed components as above...
 Many 'performance' cams are ground a couple of degrees advanced to get
 better 'top end' performance from what the factory cam was ground at.
 - - Brian
 ============================================================================
 Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 10:52:12 -0500
 From: "Patrick Skelley"  Subject: Help getting 22RE running
 I experienced the exact same symptom after doing my header install.  After much tool throwing and swearing, I discovered that I left the plug for the Mass Air Sensor disconnected, even after I had triple checked all of my work (drat!).  It may be worth checking.
 Patrick Skelley
 1993 4Runner SR-5 (no detailed signature line yet, and not enough time to list mods)
 ============================================================================
 Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 08:53:59 -0700
 From: Wayne Johnson  Subject: TSB Information
 Does anyone on this list have any details about what TSB #ST00197 says
 about the "Steering Wheel Vibration" problem found on many Tacomas?  I've
 been trying to staighten this problem out with my truck for 2 years, to no
 avail.  It is getting close to going out of warranty, and if there is still
 something I could try to get Toyota to do, I'd like to go for it.
 thanks
 - -------------------------------------------------------------------
 Wayne Johnson - johnson@gc.maricopa.edu
 http://maverick.gc.maricopa.edu/appliedscience/wmjweb/wmjhome.html
 "You're in good hands...with Toyota"
 "I love what they've done for  me"  YEAH, RIGHT!
 - -------------------------------------------------------------------
 ============================================================================
 Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 10:02:14 -0600 (CST)
 From: Brian Wiencek  Subject: Re: 4.56 Gears w/33" Tires (was 13th Annual PVD)>>The guy I bought the truck from said the gear ratio was stock.  I have>>the V6 and 5-speed w/ 33's and at 75mph I am turning like 3300 rpms and>> Like me, you've got 4.56 gears.  I have 31" tires and show approximately> 3400 RPMs at 75 MPH.
 Remember - your INDICATED speed and RPM will NOT change - an indicated 75
 with stock 4.10's and 33's is like an actual 85+ mph - now when you change
 gears in the rear to a 4.88 your speedometer will still read 75 and your
 tach will still read 3400 but your actual speed will be close to 75 mph
 and NOT the 85+ that it was before.
 Also - remember when calcualting the RPM's at a given MPH that the toyota
 transmissions have an overdrive and NOT just 1:1 - off the top of my head
 the 5 speed is like .82:1 in 5th and with 4.10's that's a final drive
 ratio of 3.36 - use that when the calculators are trying to figure engine
 rpm from tire/gear or vice-versa.
 - - Brian
 ============================================================================
 Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 11:06:08 -0500
 From: Ed.Wong@astramerck.com
 Subject: Gearless locker
 Thanks to Bill for typing up the blurbs from Four Wheeler.
 The question I now have (and the question that David asked originally)
 is that if the power is trasnferred to the axles via "disks" - does that
 mean that its a pseudo limited slip (in that the disks transfer power
 via friction engagement rather than "teeth" engagement)? Does this
 imply that those disks need to be replaced at times (aka serviced
 just like a limited slip)..???
 EWong
 ============================================================================
 Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
 ------------------------------
 Date: 29 Oct 98 15:43:50 America/Fort_Wayne
 From: Bryan Dunn  Subject: late model 5 speed
 I asked this question about a week ago and didn't get any response.  What I
 need to know is for those owners of 1st get pickups, what do you run in the
 way of a transmission?  Mine has a worn out shifter plate in the top so I'm
 going to have to pull it anyway.  I've heard that the earlier treansmissions
 had a lot of problems.  I really liked the unit that was in my '91 Toy.  Can a
 late model tranny be swapped with minimal  modifications?  Has anyone done it?
 Any help would be appreciated.  I plan to swap it along with a rebuilt Buick
 231.  I want to keep the five speed format and the stock Toyota T case.
 Thanks,
 Bryan Dunn & The Beast
 ____________________________________________________________________
 Get free e-mail and a permanent address at http://www.amexmail.com/?A=1
 ============================================================================
 Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 08:25:04 -0800
 From: "Kenneth Sigel"  Subject: Re: back from being broke
 I think Hollis probably forgot all about you, Jay, after Brandon's last
 post.
 - -Ken
 - -----Original Message-----
 From: Jay Kopycinski >Is that any better.....or am I in hot water?  ;-)>>Jay Kopycinski    '85 Toylet  (ROKTOY)
 ============================================================================
 Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 10:57:56 -0500
 From: "Mettler"  Subject: welcome
 Name:  Andrew Mettler Hayes
 City & State: Columbia, SC
 Country: usa
 E-mail address: andrewhayes@klinetowers.com
 Toyota (s) year & model:
 1987 sr5
 Are you a TLCA Member (Y/N/Number?):
 no, not that I know of
 Age:
 29
 Occupation:
 engineer
 Marital Status:
 Single
 Hobbies:
 Soccer, music(playing and listening)
 How did you find out about the Toyota 4x4 Mailing List:
 from a friend
 General info about your vehicle, self, etc.:
 1987 sr5 with a Chevy 4.3 V-6. ..I am located at
 http://members.aol.com/mettler     a picture of the 4Runner will be there
 shortly...it rocks..I just bought it
 Hang Tough Ain't Room For Second Best
 Andrew Mettler Hayes
 Engineer
 phone - 803-251-6213
 fax - 803-251-8099
 ============================================================================
 Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 11:15:37 -0500
 From: Ed.Wong@astramerck.com
 Subject: Driveshafts
 I needed a new driveshaft.
 I was going to go wiuth Six States, but I kinda needed it NOW.
 I ended up going with a local HD truck place - Florig in Conshohocken PA
 Total cost was $318 plus tax.
 Six States builds it for about $285
 I figure that with FedEx it would come about about the same.
 It uses a 3" diamter tube and all Dana Spicer parts (1310 U joints)
 No balance weights on it, and *be-yu-ti-ful* welds. Only ran it up to
 50mph for far and its super smooth...
 They basically built it that day.
 So that means my new National/Deavers are running real smooth now.
 Man - the suspension is better than new - well almost. I stll need to fix
 the front end  rebound damping.
 Its kinda weird. The truck is rock solid. It dosent move when I
 get in the truck, but its not harsh over the bumps and pot holes.
 I still need to relo the exhaust as it exits through the spring and the
 spring clamp pinches it against the body - makes a bang.
 Anyway - Id reccomend FloRig if yer in the Philly area.
 And Im really happy with the National/Deavers.
 EWong
 ============================================================================
 Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 10:17:38 -0600 (CST)
 From: Brian Wiencek  Subject: Re: Axle forward..(Spring Swap)> The stock front springs are 43.4in long (flat) the FJ springs are> 43.84in the If you take a ranch 3in lift spring as a guide they have a
<>> James how do you fit FJ40 springs when the spring width of FJ40> springs are 70mm while hilux springs are only 60mm???    Do you have>> How are you able to put fj40 springs in a hilux ????
<> Well one thing to remember is that he's probably NOT talking about the US
 trucks and that they still can get FJ labeled trucks over there - Remember
 he's overseas from the USA - where a NEW solid axle truck can be had
 directly from toyota - and his view of parts is a bit different - FJ's are
 still referred to as FJxx's, and not LandCruiser 65's, 80', etc.
 - - Brian
 ============================================================================
 Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 08:20:22 -0800
 From: Sassi Eric E CPT  Subject: Bio-Sheet> ===========================> Personal Bio Info> ===========================>> POST TO THE LIST ONLY>> toy4x4@tlca.org> +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++>> Name:  Eric E. Sassi>> City & State:  Olympia, Washington>> Country:  USA>> E-mail address:  sassie@lewis.army.mil>> Toyota (s) year & model: 93 SR5 XC Pickup>> Are you a TLCA Member (Y/N/Number?): N>> Age: 27>> Occupation: U.S. Army>> Marital Status: Single>> Hobbies:  Skiing, Anything Outdoors, Moderate 4 Wheeling>> How did you find out about the Toyota 4x4 Mailing List: Off-road.com>> General info about your vehicle, self, etc.: V6, Milemarker Winch, 26mm> Torsion Bars, Poly bushings, NWOR lift shackles, Aluminum Camper Top,> Hella 220's, 31x10.5 BFG AT's.>>>> ============================================================================
 Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 11:29:54 -0500
 From: "Ken Flesher"  Subject: Mystery w/92 4Runner
 Hello all:
 Thanks for letting me join this list. Been enjoying reading the messages so
 far, I can see I still have lots to learn.
 I've got several questions, but I promise to take them one at a time. The
 first is a weird problem that I can't diagnose. I own a '92 4Runner SR5 V6
 Limited that has no suspension or engine mods (yet). I am totally pleased
 with this vehicle, and I plan on driving it much longer than it's current
 140K miles. I've made many, many changes so far, but most of them are
 "creature comforts". The list is long...
 About 8 months ago the truck started to develop a strange behavior, that is
 tough to describe. It's like the thing is "bucking" or "jerking" at low RPMs
 (1800-2400). It started very faintly, but now is much worse. I had the thing
 at the local dealer, and they first said it was the pickup coil in the
 distributor. When that didn't help, I had them also replace the wires,
 rotor, cap, and plugs. After $400, the truck was no better (despite the shop
 foreman telling me it was "perfect". I won't be going back there again).
 I'm now thinking it's in the drivetrain, like a loose/worn bearing or
 something. Perhaps in the tranny? I do hear a groaning at very low revs, but
 had another Toyota tech tell me that's normal at this many miles. It's
 almost as if the clutch was slipping, but I had it replaced in July '97
 (25,000 miles ago), and I've checked the freeplay carefully.
 This is really driving me nuts. Any ideas? Thanks!!
 +-------------------------------------------+
 |Ken Flesher             ken.flesher@unh.edu|
 |Autodesk ATS for GIS/Mapping               |
 |University of New Hampshire                |
 +-------------------------------------------+
 ============================================================================
 Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 11:40:07 -0500
 From: Ed.Wong@astramerck.com
 Subject: All wheel drive / 4 Wheel Drive
 A while back Runar asked about a means to get
 all wheel drive and locked 4WD at the same time in a "external"
 unit that could be added to an existing 4WD vehicle.
 I had mentioned the use of MileMarker's Visco unit, but that
 would not give very good full lock 4WD (at least IMHO).
 There is now another option - Halidex Limited Slip Coupling.
 While again not "full lockabe" like the MileMarker unit,
 it will transmit lock up to 2000Nm. Beyond that - I guess
 maybe getting stuck is preferrable to breaking stuff?
 The unit uses both electonics (external eletrical pump)
 as well as internal hydrulic pumps to control a wet plate clutch.
 The pump pressures are computer controllable (traction control)
 There are some limits to cold wether use (sorry Runar)
 at the -40degC range - due to the use of HTF oil in the
 wet plate clutch.
 Further details are available in the Sep/Oct Racecar enginnering issue.
 Now if only Weismann would make more of their famous locker/torque split
 diffs....
 EWong
 ============================================================================
 Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 08:42:42 -0800
 From: Ken Emanuel  Subject: Re: 4.56 Gears w/33" Tires (was 13th Annual PVD)
 On Thu, 29 Oct 1998, Brian Wiencek wrote:> Remember - your INDICATED speed and RPM will NOT change - an indicated 75> with stock 4.10's and 33's is like an actual 85+ mph - now when you change> gears in the rear to a 4.88 your speedometer will still read 75 and your> tach will still read 3400 but your actual speed will be close to 75 mph> and NOT the 85+ that it was before.
 DOH!  In an effort to be brief I left a lot of information out.  I
 promise, I won't do it again!  :-)   (I'm slapping my own hand right now.)> Also - remember when calcualting the RPM's at a given MPH that the toyota> transmissions have an overdrive and NOT just 1:1 - off the top of my head> the 5 speed is like .82:1 in 5th and with 4.10's that's a final drive> ratio of 3.36 - use that when the calculators are trying to figure engine> rpm from tire/gear or vice-versa.
 When using www.4lo.com, I calculated my engine RPMs in 4th gear (1:1
 ratio) at 70 MPH with 4.56 gears and 31" tires.  I recalculated using the
 same parameters except with 32" tires.  The change was about 100 RPMs in 4th
 gear, and since there is only a 300 RPM difference between 4th and 5th
 gear, I just subtracted 300 RPMs from the 4th gear RPM numbers to figure
 out what my RPMs would be in 5th gear.  Kinda rough, but should work.
 Thanks!
 Ken
 ============================================================================
 Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
 ------------------------------
 End of Toyota 4x4 digest: V2 #157
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