Toyota 4x4 digest:    Thursday, September 24 1998    Volume 02 : Number 100
 -   Toyota 4x4 Mailing List  (Toy4x4)   ---
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 Re: ARB or Detroit
 Torsion Bars Install
 Re: variant on the front suspension (where does it come from?)
 Re: Missouri Lift Laws & Inspection
 Re: GWNF Trip...
 ATTN: J (?).Williams - GWNF trip
 Bedliner for Sale
 RE: variant on the front suspension (where does it come from?)
 RE: Toyota 4x4 digest: V2 #98
 Re: variant on the front suspension (where does it come from?)
 Re: Putting 22re wires&hoses on correctly
 RE: ARB or Detroit
 RE: variant on the front suspension (where does it come from?)
 re:ARB or Detroit
 RE: Missouri Lift Laws & Inspection
 RE: Putting 22re wires&hoses on correctly
 Re: variant on the front suspension (where does it come from?)
 Bio
 Re: ARB or Detroit
 smog pump
 Re: Scanner
 IFS
 re: Tired '81 Longbed
 Disconnects
 Re: jet chips (and some questions for Charles)
 Solid axle swap & IFS
 Highlift Jacks
 RE: variant on the front suspension (where does it come from?)
 Re: Brake Trick Was:TruTracs and Manual Trannies
 Re: Engine Woes
 Re: Highlift Jacks
 RE: Solid axle swap & IFS
 Re: Highlift Jacks
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 07:01:15 -0600 (MDT)
 From: Scott Ellinger  Subject: Re: ARB or Detroit>> Somebody that has a DAILY driver with a Detroit softlocker...........how>> does it behave?> I'm not sure if it's a softlocker or the old "hard" locker, but either way,
 it's a Detroit.  And it is in my former daily driver (till I bought the Chevy
 and broke the Toy...) still; I just can't drive the truck.  :(
 But it behaves pretty well.  If I let it do its thing (it takes some getting
 used to for the first week or so) it's almost totally transparent, but I
 know that I'm helping make it so by subtle changes in my driving style.  If
 I try to make it lock, bang, and clang, it will, but not a whole lot.
 It's most noticeable when I take off from a light that had a sidehill-ish
 approach (high road crown) about midway across the intersection--it emits a
 rather loud bang (louder than the sound of a breaking axle) and sometimes
 this bang is accompanied by a slight shimmy or small jerk.  Might be scary
 on ice, but I drove with a LockRight all last winter no problem, and I doubt
 the the Detroit will be any worse.  If it is, well, I'll just use the old
 LockRight, now up front, to make things really scary.... :)
 - --scott
 Scott Ellinger   ellinger@holly.colostate.edu   Larimer County 4WD Club
 Visit my Home Page: http://holly.colostate.edu/~ellinger
 '86 Toy pickup body, Ford 5.0, GMC NV4500, "slightly altered" RKSTMPR
 ============================================================================
 Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 06:09:44 -0700
 From: "Allen Jensen"  Subject: Torsion Bars Install
 yeah, I set up a page at http://members.home.net/aj7/torsion.htm
 ============================================================================
 Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 07:13:03 -0600 (MDT)
 From: Scott Ellinger  Subject: Re: variant on the front suspension (where does it come from?)> Front suspension: Trailmaster/Procomp Stage I off the shelf.  Remove>   the bottom-out bump stop spacers, replace with 2x3 box tube instead>   of supplied 2x4.  Use low-pro poly stops all around.  Add a 1/4">   upper ball joint spacer (or Rancho arms) to allow more travel.> Rancho Arms...   how about using a bigger spacer? ~1/2", 1"?  What's the> Stage I include?
 3/8" is about the reasonable limit; anything bigger than that won't fit
 without major cutting on the stock arms.
 Rancho arms eliminate the interference issue, (which is what the ball joint
 spacer is there for--it gets the upper ball joint a little away from the
 arm, since there's a "pocket" that interferes with the spindle spacer on
 compression otherwise) but increase height and travel somewhat, which may
 make the 930 CV's no longer optional, but required.  Also, with Rancho
 arms, you'll have to upgrade torsion bars as well; a ball joint spacer is
 pretty cheap and/or easy, whereas new upper arms, aren't.>> President of Comstock 4 Wheelers...  which means I can sign checks!  ; )
 Hey, Ken... we need to talk.... :)> - --scott
 Scott Ellinger   ellinger@holly.colostate.edu   Larimer County 4WD Club
 Visit my Home Page: http://holly.colostate.edu/~ellinger
 '86 Toy pickup body, Ford 5.0, GMC NV4500, "slightly altered" RKSTMPR
 ============================================================================
 Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 08:22:30 -0500 (CDT)
 From: Brian Wiencek  Subject: Re: Missouri Lift Laws & Inspection> Get a set of P205 tires  from a stock samurai and put them on a set of 6" steel> wheels from the junk yard just for the inspection, bet they pass it. Each shops> seems to have different stanards so take it to a different shop.
 I've thought about that - I've even thought about getting some really
 dorky looking 195/60R15's to slap on 'er to pass... I'd just hate to have
 to but 4 rims & tires just to pass inspection... I've got a friend with an
 '86 that still has the P235/75R15's on it, so I might try to borrow them -
 will a set of 31's on white-spokes that came off my solid-axle 4Runner
 fit good enough to let him drive for a day or two?> They are never going to take my 33's away from me! If they try, I know the end> of freedom is right around the cornner and it will be time to fight back.
 I hear that- it sucks that we have to jump through hoops to get this stuff
 inspected - and I made sure that I did my lift right, all springs, no
 front blocks or anything unsafe - It's definately in a lot better shape
 than some of the deathtraps that I see running around....
 - - Brian
 ============================================================================
 Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 09:39:33 -0400
 From: adickenson@kpmg.com
 Subject: Re: GWNF Trip...>Just a thought... in addition to deciding where to initially meet...>might be nice to agree to a CB channel for people arriving late...>say...25?
 Yeah, I was gonna include that in the directions, but the only problem
 is that if we head up Second Mountain, deep in the sticks, the CB's
 might not reach.  I was thinking that we'd set a meeting time and
 place and I'd have my cell phone on.  Anybody who knows they're gonna
 be late could stop and give me a call at the scheduled meeting time.
 Allen D.
 1995 4Runner - "FT KNOX"
 1972 FJ-40 - deceased....for now
 ============================================================================
 Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 09:53:59 -0400
 From: adickenson@kpmg.com
 Subject: ATTN: J (?).Williams - GWNF trip
 I accidentally erased your email before I had a chance to get your
 email address and respond to it.  Please email me again and I'll give
 you the information you asked about.
 Allen Dickenson
 1995 4Runner - "FT KNOX"
 1972 FJ-40 - deceased.....for now
 ============================================================================
 Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 10:13:48 -0400
 From: Gregg Ehrhardt  Subject: Bedliner for Sale
 ProTecta under-the-rail bedliner; purchased in Dec. 1996.  Like new - only
 used 4 months then got Rhino-liner.  Fits all Tacoma pickups (also think it
 fits previous generation 89-95 Toyota pickups).  Tailgate protector
 included.  $100.00 or best offer.  Located in southeastern Pennsylvania.
 Thanks,
 Gregg Ehrhardt
 gregg.ehrhardt@bentley.com
 Exton, PA
 ============================================================================
 Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 07:33:52 -0700
 From: "Kenneth Sigel"  Subject: RE: variant on the front suspension (where does it come from?)
 So you're saying use either the Rancho arms or a spacer?  How about both?  I
 want more downward travel!> Rancho Arms...   how about using a bigger spacer? ~1/2", 1"?  What's the> Stage I include?
 3/8" is about the reasonable limit; anything bigger than that won't fit
 without major cutting on the stock arms.
 Rancho arms eliminate the interference issue, (which is what the ball joint
 spacer is there for--it gets the upper ball joint a little away from the
 arm, since there's a "pocket" that interferes with the spindle spacer on
 compression otherwise) but increase height and travel somewhat, which may
 make the 930 CV's no longer optional, but required.  Also, with Rancho
 arms, you'll have to upgrade torsion bars as well; a ball joint spacer is
 pretty cheap and/or easy, whereas new upper arms, aren't.
 Either way, I usually just wait until something breaks before I fix it.
 Seeing something break gives me an idea where the weak link is - of course I
 already know in this case.
 - -Ken
 ============================================================================
 Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 07:32:53 -0700
 From: "Ladd Howell"  Subject: RE: Toyota 4x4 digest: V2 #98
 Ron,
 Check the clutch fork connection to the slave cylinder. I bought a 95 T100
 Ex-Cab 4x4 last December from a Ford dealer (first mistake). The next day I
 noticed a chirping sound when the clutch pedal was out. Pressing on the
 pedal made it disappear. My first thought was T/O bearing. Took it back to
 the dealer, their synopsis was T/O bearing and they agreed to fix. I talked
 them out of a new clutch also. Got the truck back with the same chirp. After
 taking back to them several times with no resolution, took it to a Toyota
 dealer, they listened and said T/O bearing. Took to another Toyota house,
 T/O bearing. Took to another Toy house who put it on a lift and greased this
 connection. Chirp gone. It has returned , however no damage is being done so
 I haven't worried about. I have not had time to investigate the joint, but
 the adjustment is a much better solution than just grease and doubt if you
 are experiencing any slippage.
 On a different subject, the first time I got the truck back after
 replacement of the clutch and T/O, the clutch would not release properly.
 After numerous trips back to the dealer and about a month in a rental at
 their expense, they replaced the slave cylinder with no result. Finally a
 crack was found at the firewall where the master cylinder is mounted. Their
 fix supposedly recommended by Toy, was to weld a plate to the firewall and
 remount the master. I was non too happy with this, but to their credit, the
 mend is virtually un-noticeable and fixed the problem.
 Date: Wed, 23 Sep 1998 12:10:29 -0400
 From: "Ron Rollinson"  Subject: weird clutch noise
 Guys, I have a 94 4x4 with the V-6 engine in it.  Lately, I have been
 noticing a weird high pitched (kind of like a chirp) sound coming from what
 appears to be my clutch.  I only hear it when the clutch pedal is totally
 out (in or out of gear) and I can make it disappear by resting my foot on
 the clutch pedal or depressing the clutch pedal a very small amount (say
 1/2").  I examined the clutch pedal mechanism and realize I can adjust the
 pedal to provide the pressure needed to get rid of the noise.  While
 driving I've tried to tell if this would cause any slippage and I really
 can't see it causing any.  Any thoughts on what this might be?
 Thanks,
 Ron Rollinson
 ronr@nowonder.com
 ============================================================================
 Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 10:32:30 EDT
 From: DRM033@aol.com
 Subject: Re: variant on the front suspension (where does it come from?)
 ksigel@scs.unr.edu writes:> So you're saying use either the Rancho arms or a spacer?  How about both?  I>  want more downward travel!
 Could someone go into more detail as to how a ball joint spacer would help me?
 (ProComp front lift).  I am planing on cutting the front fenders & hammering
 the front seam to clear room for more compression travel.  Will this spacer
 allow more movement, and in which direction?
 David
 DRM033@aol.com
 ============================================================================
 Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 08:06:46 -0700 (PDT)
 From: Dan Merrick  Subject: Re: Putting 22re wires&hoses on correctly
 Here's a few tricks i learned while pulling my brother's 22r and my 22r:
 How to assemble all the wires and hoses:
 You should have started by using a video camera to take some footage of the
 engine compartment before disassembling. I took nice, still footage of all
 of the hoses that route from the fender to the intake, distributor, etc. If
 you don't know where something goes, put the tape in the VCR and you have a
 video of your wiring diagram. I know this trick is a little late for you,
 since you have already started disassembly...
 I also used masking tape and a permanent pen to label all of the hoses,
 fittings, wires, and plugs. For example, before I would pull a vacuum hose
 off a barbed fitting, I would take two small pieces of tape, write the
 number "1" on each piece, then attach the tape to the hose and the barb as
 soon as I pull them apart. There are some parts that the tape might not want
 to stick to, so you may want to use something else (Chris G's colored zip
 tie trick would work!)
 It also helps if you have a friend who has the same engine in his truck so
 you can peek under his hood to verify any hose/wire routings. Otherwise get
 a good manual or ask some of the listers to send you photocopies of vacuum
 hose diagrams, wiring diagrams, etc.
 As far as the engine rebuild goes.. I would ask some local mechanics, auto
 parts techs, etc. if they know of a reputable machine shop to overhaul your
 engine. If I were you, I would do a little research into what parts to
 replace, what brand parts to use, and then find a machinist who will do the
 work. Having "your" old engine rebuilt by someone with a reputation and
 using parts that have been recommended by Toyota fanatics is the best way to
 go. Sometimes you don't know what you are getting with the remanufactured
 engines. I have heard that ATK reman. engines are good though. The
 warranties usually cover defects in parts and workmanship. But you have to
 pull the motor and reinstall it(or pay someone else to do it). So I think
 that a warranty is kinda useless, since removal and installation will cost
 you about 2-4 days of work(assuming you are a 1 banana howler monkey!) Also,
 it could take about a month for a good shop to rebuild your engine, since
 good shops are always busy!
 If you have a friend (or friends) who are more evolved howler monkeys, then
 they hopefully can help you pull the engine, strip it down, and bring it to
 the machine shop. Doing the removal and installation will offset the cost of
 a good engine rebuild.
 My brother's '82 22r was rebuilt for $1300, and still runs strong with about
 40K on it. I ended up throwing a $800 junkyard motor in my '85, and it ran
 great, until I sold it!
 Dan>	I posted a few weeks ago about my 22re engine (on an 88 4Runner) that>overheated that I was told either had a blown head gasket or cracked>head.
 ============================================================================
 Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 10:19:45 -0500
 From: Ryan Beal  Subject: RE: ARB or Detroit
 Paul How do you feel about True Tracs?> ----------> From: 	Paul Kube[SMTP:kube@gremlin.ucsd.edu]> Reply To: 	toy4x4@tlca.org> Sent: 	Wednesday, September 23, 1998 10:53 PM> To: 	toy4x4@tlca.org> Subject: 	Re: ARB or Detroit>>> From: michael >> Somebody that has a DAILY driver with a Detroit> softlocker...........how>> does it behave?>> Ah, a subject near to my heart.>> When I was deciding between a Detroit and an Airlocker for the rear,> it was explained to me that driving a Detroit on the street is like> driving with a bad u-joint.  This turns out to be true, but it is only> part of the story, namely what the driveline slop is like when you're> not turning.  So, anyway, part of the decision should be whether you> would like driving with a bad u-joint all the time.  (If you already> have a bad u-joint this won't be a problem :)>> The other part relates to what it's like in a turn on dry pavement.> You may be surprised to find that this "traction-aiding device"> actually> reduces traction on dry pavement in a turn, compared to an open> diff...> reduces it to about half, in fact, since it drives only the wheel> that's having weight transferred off of it in the turn.  This may or> may not be a problem, depending on how you drive.  Another feature> is that if, in a turn, you switch from accelerating to engine braking,> or vice versa, the Detroit will switch from unlocking the outside> wheel to unlocking the inside wheel, or vice versa, and in a tight> turn,> where those wheel speeds are quite different, the effect is not> subtle.>> Describing all this in words doesn't really do it justice; the best> thing is to find someone who has one and who will let you drive it> to see what it's really like.>> They do wheel pretty well, though, I must say.>> 	--Paul> 	'85 4Runner SR5, Alcans, Detroits, 32" BFG's>>>> ======================================================================> ======> Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota> ============================================================================
 Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 08:33:32 -0700
 From: "Kenneth Sigel"  Subject: RE: variant on the front suspension (where does it come from?)
 The Rancho arm eventually hits the frame in the downward position.  I'm
 running the stock bump stops to prevent it.  I'm still getting more travel
 than stock arms because the Rancho arm is both longer and not as tall.  The
 spacer should give me a little more travel on the downward stroke - the
 upper arm will still hit the stop, but everything below it will move the
 extra distance of the spacer...     Another idea is to use the bracket from
 a Trailmaster kit that mounts to the upper ball joint to lower everything.
 I'd probably have to lower my diff too.  That might allow me to clear 35's
 though!
 I actually found that the Rancho arms weren't the best quality.  One of the
 torsion bolts wouldn't even fit.  I had to modify (aka - use a heavy hammer)
 on the tube to get the bolt to fit.
 I like the idea, but if the arms were longer and I added a lower control
 arm, I'd be able to get more travel and better CV angles.
 Ken Sigel
 - -----Original Message-----
 From:	owner-toy4x4@tlca.org [mailto:owner-toy4x4@tlca.org] On Behalf Of
 DRM033@aol.com
 Sent:	Thursday, September 24, 1998 7:33 AM
 To:	toy4x4@tlca.org
 Subject:	Re: variant on the front suspension (where does it come from?)
 ksigel@scs.unr.edu writes:> So you're saying use either the Rancho arms or a spacer?  How about both?
 I>  want more downward travel!
 Could someone go into more detail as to how a ball joint spacer would help
 me?
 (ProComp front lift).  I am planing on cutting the front fenders & hammering
 the front seam to clear room for more compression travel.  Will this spacer
 allow more movement, and in which direction?
 David
 DRM033@aol.com
 ============================================================================
 Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
 ============================================================================
 Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 23 Sep 1998 14:22:59 -0700
 From: David Fritzsche  Subject: re:ARB or Detroit
 I have been running an ARB for a year and half and I have had NO
 PROBLEMS with it. I have been on Fordyce Creek three times this year and
 the Rubicon once. This truck is a daily driver sixty to seventy miles a
 day.
 David Fritzsche, 1990 V-6 ex-cab, Pro-Comp II Lift, Rancho 9000 Shocks,
 Marlin Gear Change, 4:88 Gears, Tru-Trak Front, ARB rear, 33"
 BFG-MT's,Warn8000, Custom Rear Bumper, Winch Mount, Re-Worked
 Smitty-Built Nerf Bars, CB Mount, Skid Plates all designed and built by
 owner (Man! I hope they don't fall off)
 ============================================================================
 Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 10:59:01 -0500 (CDT)
 From: Brian Wiencek  Subject: RE: Missouri Lift Laws & Inspection>> Brian, Out here in Okla the law is 54", [or was it 58"?] to the bottom>> of the headlight>>> Nothing strange with that.  Higher headlighs will blind oncomming traffic> all the time.>> I belive the limit is about 52" around here.
 While we do have some headlight Max, it's the bumper height that's getting
 me - it can be xx inches to the *Middle* of the bumper - I think it is
 like 21"... I'll have to double check with the DMV.
 - - Brian
 ============================================================================
 Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 09:15:31 -0700
 From: "Kenneth Sigel"  Subject: RE: Putting 22re wires&hoses on correctly
 Toyota rebuilt my 22RE a year ago.  It now has 28k miles on it and still
 purrs.  They did they whole job in about 10 days.  I did have to take it
 back a few days later when I noticed that a stud was broken on my header.
 Other than that, I've been very happy with it.  They charged me $3391 for
 everything - all new parts except for the block, head, and cam.  That was
 including a new clutch too.
 Ken Sigel
 ============================================================================
 Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 09:05:17 -0700
 From: Chris Geiger  Subject: Re: variant on the front suspension (where does it come from?)> Either way, I usually just wait until something breaks before I fix it.> Seeing something break gives me an idea where the weak link is.
 Well then take a look at the pictures of two broken outer CV joints on my web
 page. If the stock CV joints can't handle the extra angle of low profile stops
 then it is surely not going to handle the kind of angles your talking about. BTW
 one of the problems that people with the WCOR 10" and 14" setup are having is
 with broken CV joints.
 ============================================================================
 Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 09:45:11 -0700 (PDT)
 From: Bryan Coulombe  Subject: Bio
 Name:	Bryan R. Coulombe
 City & State:	Prescott, AZ
 Country:	USA
 E-mail address:	coulomb@pr.erau.edu
 Toyota year and model:	87 4x4 X-tra cab
 Are you a TLCA member:	N
 Age:	22
 Occupation:	Senior Aerospace Engineer student at Embry-Riddle Aero. Univ.
 Marital Status:	Single
 Hobbies:	auto mechanic, mountain biking
 How did you find out about the Toyota 4x4 mailing list:	surfing the web
 General information about your vehicle, self, etc.:
 My daily drive machine is an 87 4x4 X-tra cab.  It has over
 210,000 miles on the frame.  The current mods that I have are
 rebuilt engine, K&N air filter, cross drilled front rotors, Jacobs Omni
 Magnum Ignition, Downey headers, free flow cat, and a 2 inch body lift that helps to fi
 32" BFG all terrains.
 I will be graduating in May with a B.S. degree.  Currently I am
 searching for engineering jobs in aerospace and automotive industries.
 ============================================================================
 Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 10:07:02 -0700
 From: Scott Muir  Subject: Re: ARB or Detroit
 Speaking of Detroit,
 Could someone detail all the Detroit lockers there are?  I was driving
 with a friends early Detroit, I don't have a clue what it was but I
 don't think it was a softlocker.  Descriptions would be nice too...
 Thanks,
 S.
 ============================================================================
 Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 10:27:15 -0700
 From: Barney McNamara  Subject: smog pump
 Ed,
 Thanks for the suggestion. I decided to go ahead and pay the $85 for
 a rebuilt pump. I also needed a new belt $15, as mine was burnt when
 the old pump jammed. I like working on my truck, but I hate doing the
 same thing over and over. So I figure, after 235,000 miles, the old
 pump had given a good life. Now with a 'new' one, I am set for
 another  trip to the moon.
 Barney>Date: Wed, 23 Sep 1998 10:27:41 -0500>From: "Edward C. Fisher" >Subject: smog pump>>Barney:>>This may be late but I'll post anyway.  My 79 20r smog pump hung up twice>while I owned it.  The truck had ~156,000 miles on it.  I simply removed the>pump, and 'forced' the pully back and forth slowly with channel locks.
 ============================================================================
 Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 10:58:08 -0700
 From: "Bob Williams"  Subject: Re: Scanner
 Hey Steve,
 I'll be looking for your web site, I'd like to see if you ever got the
 running boards looking good again!
 Bob Williams, Las Vegas, NV
 - -----Original Message-----
 From: Steve Harron  To: 'Toyota Mailing List'  Date: Tuesday, September 22, 1998 4:15 PM
 Subject: Scanner>Hello all,>>I know this doesn't sound Toyota related.... but it is!  I am putting>together my 4Runner web page and I am sick of going to Kinko's to scan>pictures.  So, I want to buy a scanner.  Anyone out there have any>suggestions?  What do people use besides buying a digital camera?  Many>thanks!>>Steve Harron>FX/Fox Sports Net Traffic>310-444-8260>>>===========================================================================
 =>Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota> ============================================================================
 Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 11:11:52 -0700
 From: David Fritzsche  Subject: IFS
 Until you put the solid axle crank your torsion bars down and remember
 that with the Marlin you have a heck of a lot more torque, things will
 break easier. I too am going to put in a solid axle, I am in the process
 of gathering the parts, so far I have the complete front end off of an
 1984 long bed, picked up the whole thing for two hundred dollars.
 David Fritzsche, 1990 V-6 ex-cab, Pro-Comp II Lift, Rancho 9000 Shocks,
 Marlin Gear Change, 4:88 Gears, Tru-Trak Front, ARB rear, 33"
 BFG-MT's,Warn8000, Custom Rear Bumper, Winch Mount, Re-Worked
 Smitty-Built Nerf Bars, CB Mount, Skid Plates all designed and built by
 owner (Man! I hope they don't fall off)
 ============================================================================
 Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 14:16:59 -0400
 From: Eli  Subject: re: Tired '81 Longbed
 William Wrote -
 ****************************
 I have a 1981 longbed 4x4, 230k mi, 4 speed, open diffs, 2nd plug was
 covered with oil last tune-up, uses 1.5 qt oil every 200 miles, no power
 steering, good cab, fair bed.
 my dilemma is this. Is this a suitable base for an off-road project truck
 or should I retire it to a trash and wood hauler and get a newer truck. It
 is driven daily now but I don't think it will last much longer in it's
 present condition.  Any suggetions as to modifications, engine swap vs.
 rebuild, is the four speed strong enough for a serious trail rig? new
 gears, lockers or limited slip diffs,
 If I proceed with this project, what kind of funds can I expect to spend on
 a build up?
 My point is, would it be cheaper to just buy another truck that may be more
 trail worthy to start with and go from there. Help!
 ***********************************
 Well, it sounds like the engine needs to be rebuilt or replaced.
 How is the frame and body? Are they rusty? The first spots to rust on a
 Toyota pickup frame are below where the bed and body meet and on the inside
 of the framerails under the bed. If you see major damage in these areas it
 means the frame is getting rusty INSIDE the frame as well. Bad.
 Now, some people aren't used to rust as much as I am and will freak when
 they see a tiny spot and call it bad, but I'm talking about HOLES in the
 frame or CRACKS. Where has the truck spent most of it's life? If it's in an
 area where the roads are salted during the winter, chances are that it's
 pretty rusty, being 17 years old and 230,000 miles.
 I believe the 4 speed trannies were pretty strong. The early 5 speeds had
 problems with the input bearing going.
 Does it shift into and out of 4wd ok? Do the hubs lock and unlock ok? Is
 there much slop in the driveshafts?
 If the truck is rust free I would highly recommend driving it to
 Middlebury, Vermont and giving it to me, regardless of the condition of the
 parts ;-)
 Eli Madden
 Middlebury, Vermont
 '83 4x4 Shortbed w/ '87 22R, 31s, 3" Front Springs, and lots of rust and
 dents!
 eli@computeralt.com
 ============================================================================
 Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 11:40:08 -0700
 From: Scott Wilson  Subject: Disconnects
 Forgive me if this particular set has already been seen here...I just
 saw these for the first time, and thought some of you might be
 interested.   http://www.jps.net/persson/
 Scott
 - --
 _____
 /_/_|_\__       Scott Wilson TLCA #5261  CA4WDC #13393
 | _     _ :     88 4Runner SR5 V6
 */_\---/_\'     Santa Clara, CA
 (_)   (_)      http://www.off-road.com/~swilson
 L~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
 ============================================================================
 Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 12:27:58 -0800
 From: Jeff Moskovitz  Subject: Re: jet chips (and some questions for Charles)
 Charles,
 I would agree with you about JET, but I haven't heard of either Hypertech
 or ADS -- do you have their Web addresses? I've tried the obvious, e.g.,
 hypertech.com and ads.com, and variations, but no luck. Also, can you
 provide a little more info on the Hypertech and ADS units? Are these
 reprogrammed stock ECUs or piggyback units? Do you know how much these
 units cost?
 Since I need to modify the ECU on my 22R-TE (I figure I'm losing about 15
 hp to an incorrect fuel mapping table) I've been looking into various
 options for this, from modifying the stock ECU to going with a separate
 standalone system, like SDS or TEC. In the process of researching this,
 I've found a company that's working on exactly what I was hoping to find:
 a re-programmable stock 22R-TE ECU. I've been swapping email with this
 company, and they will be coming out with a programmable ECU for the
 22R-TE (and presumably the 22RE) in the near future. You'll be able to
 adjust the fuel and spark tables, as well as a couple of other functions,
 via a laptop. They are still in the development/prototype phase, so I
 can't share any more information at this time, but they've been working
 on this project for about a year (on and off, since demand is low
 compared to ECUs for other vehicles), and I'm pretty sure they'll bring
 it to market.
 So if anyone else is looking for the same thing I am, be patient, as
 there may be a very good solution available before the end of the year.
 Jeff
 P.S.: Rereading the above makes me wonder if I've set some sort of record
 for use of TLAs (three letter acronyms)...>Date: Wed, 23 Sep 1998 19:52:02 -0400>From: Charles Brooks>Subject: Re: jet chips>>Eric Holley wrote:>>>> has any one used these chips? i was wondering if they would be worth it? is>> it just a simple drop in EPROM for JET? it's kind of alot of $$ but it is>> suposed to give 12-14 more hp. thanks>>If you want to use a chip I would'nt go with JET. ADS makes a fair unit>but Hypertech is the best (More expensive though)>>Charles Brooks
 - -------------------------------------------------------------------------
 Jeff Moskovitz                             1986 22R-TE truck,
 Technical Writer                           http://www.well.com/user/mosk
 FileMaker, Inc.
 jeff_moskovitz@filemaker.com
 mosk@well.com
 ============================================================================
 Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 15:33:12 EDT
 From: DRM033@aol.com
 Subject: Solid axle swap & IFS
 I have read a little more about solid axles swaps lately from people with IFS
 trucks.  I do have one things to say to Chris - have you thought that maybe
 the CV was already stressed from the 4 wheeling use it has seen, and it only
 took a little more to get it to give?  It if is the original CV from your
 truck, this is likely.
 Anyway, although I am again delaying my solid axle swap, I am still gathering
 parts for it all.  I spent months trying to figure out the width I wanted, and
 trying to find a Dana 44 front & a 9" rear that were within 1.5" of each
 other.
 Well, the other day a friend told me I could have a 9" he has in a parts truck
 of his.  On this, I decided that my new track width will be whatever that axle
 width is!  I am going to ditch the Scout 44 front idea, and another friend is
 arranging for me to get a 44 from a 70's Chevy Blazer.  I am buying new wheels
 this weekend (tired of vibrating down the road), and I will have to have the
 rear 9" flanges & brake drums re-drilled for 6 bolt wheel pattern to match the
 Chevy front.
 I have given up on the 35" bogger idea, and will stick with the 36x12.5
 swampers.  I haven't figures out the amount of lift & where it will come from,
 but it will likely be a combination of a 1" body lift, fender/seam trimming,
 suspension drop brackets, and mild lift springs.
 With the way the engine is acting lately, I will likely end up dropping a new
 one in or rebuilding this one before I get to do fun stuff like axle swaps.
 I just love how things get delayed, and delayed, and delayed..
 David
 DRM033@aol.com
 ============================================================================
 Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 25 Sep 1998 07:42:19 +1200
 From: Stuart Clarke  Subject: Highlift Jacks
 Hi Guys,
 This one is specifically for those of us with 1st Gen 4-Runners.  Where do
 the rest of you with Highlift jacks mount them, I'm just about to purchase a
 Highlift and would like to have it mounted outside the truck (somewhere) but
 am at a loss for idea's, any suggestions welcome
 TIA
 Stu Clarke
 ___________________________________________________________
 Late 85 4-runner IFS Pretty stock but for the Alpine
 sclarke@swichtec.co.nz
 _____________________________________________________________
 ============================================================================
 Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 12:58:39 -0700
 From: "Kenneth Sigel"  Subject: RE: variant on the front suspension (where does it come from?)
 I guess I've been pretty lucky with my CV's.  Knock, knock, knock!
 What's the alternative if we don't use CV's?  Is there an easy way to beef
 up the outer CV?
 - -Ken
 - -----Original Message-----> Either way, I usually just wait until something breaks before I fix it.> Seeing something break gives me an idea where the weak link is.
 Well then take a look at the pictures of two broken outer CV joints on my
 web
 page. If the stock CV joints can't handle the extra angle of low profile
 stops
 then it is surely not going to handle the kind of angles your talking about.
 BTW
 one of the problems that people with the WCOR 10" and 14" setup are having
 is
 with broken CV joints.
 ============================================================================
 Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 11:25:21 -0700
 From: "Roger Brown, P.E."  Subject: Re: Brake Trick Was:TruTracs and Manual Trannies
 Regarding in-cab adjustable brake bias devices...
 Someone wrote:> Its true, they are illegal for streat use, but who's gonna know?
 Anyone have a reference to the regulation where this is spelled out?  I've
 done a cursory search of the DOT regs and haven't found anything that says
 this.  In fact they talk about doing tests with proportioning valves connected
 and disconnected (to simulate failure of the system).
 I wonder how this applies to in-cab brake line locks and to
 disconnecting/modifying factory proportioning valves?
 ============================================================================
 Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 10:34:48 -0700
 From: "Roger Brown, P.E."  Subject: Re: Engine Woes
 I was told that the Toyota cylinder heads (at least the 22RE variety) can't be
 re-surfaced and must be replaced if warped beyond the 0.007" limit.  I also
 heard that there is a way to "straighten" warped heads though some sort of
 heat treatment process.
 Anyone have comments on the repair of cylinder heads?
 ============================================================================
 Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 13:14:15 -0700
 From: Scott Wilson  Subject: Re: Highlift Jacks
 Stuart Clarke wrote:>> Hi Guys,> This one is specifically for those of us with 1st Gen 4-Runners.  Where do> the rest of you with Highlift jacks mount them, I'm just about to purchase a> Highlift and would like to have it mounted outside the truck (somewhere) but> am at a loss for idea's, any suggestions welcome
 One of the few roof top mounts I've seen is on Kevin Carey's 4Runner.  I
 believe he designed his own brackets, and just bolted it through the
 fiberglass top.
 http://www.off-road.com/~swilson/april11/pictures/image32.jpg
 Mounting it on the rear bumper isn't really an option because of the
 tail gate.
 Mounting is on the front bumper is possible, but you risk damaging the
 jack.  Guy (a regular at the 4Runner jamboree has his on his front
 bumper)
 http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota/trips/jamboree98/111.jpg
 http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota/trips/jamboree98/60.jpg
 http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota/trips/jamboree98/cover.jpg
 Personally I try to keep mine inside so it won't rust.   I used a trick
 of Eric Johnson's and used U-bolt (from the hardware store) to mount it
 to the roll bar in the back of my 4runner.
 http://www.off-road.com/~swilson/trailreports/hollister/hollister01.jpg
 Scott
 - --
 _____
 /_/_|_\__       Scott Wilson TLCA #5261  CA4WDC #13393
 | _     _ :     88 4Runner SR5 V6
 */_\---/_\'     Santa Clara, CA
 (_)   (_)      http://www.off-road.com/~swilson
 L~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
 ============================================================================
 Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 13:37:07 -0700
 From: "Kenneth Sigel"  Subject: RE: Solid axle swap & IFS
 Why not use Toyota axles?  With the stock engine, shouldn't the stock axles
 be fine?  Add a Marlin or two -- are they still strong enough?
 Ken
 - -----Original Message-----
 Well, the other day a friend told me I could have a 9" he has in a parts
 truck
 of his.  On this, I decided that my new track width will be whatever that
 axle
 width is!  I am going to ditch the Scout 44 front idea, and another friend
 is
 arranging for me to get a 44 from a 70's Chevy Blazer.  I am buying new
 wheels
 this weekend (tired of vibrating down the road), and I will have to have the
 rear 9" flanges & brake drums re-drilled for 6 bolt wheel pattern to match
 the
 Chevy front.
 ============================================================================
 Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 13:31:47 -0700
 From: Chris Geiger  Subject: Re: Highlift Jacks
 I have a 2nd gen 4Runner and mounted the jack in the bed, that should work for
 you too. I used 2, 1/2" bolts about 4" long that go through the fenders and nuts
 placed under the jack to keep the bolts from moving. The jack slips on top of
 those and then I use a wing nut to hold the jack down. Over the years I have
 used this system to mount hilift jacks to the rear bumper, on top of the engine
 and in the bed. My favorite position is in the bed. The longer a highlift jack
 is out in the weather the more problems it gives you when trying to use it, so
 by keeping the jack inside the truck it should give years of service without
 binding or rusting. See a picture of my current setup
 athttp://www.off-road.com/~geiger/modifications/storage/storage.html
 Chris Geiger 93 4Runner http://www.off-road.com/~geiger> Where do> the rest of you with Highlift jacks mount them, I'm just about to purchase a> Highlift and would like to have it mounted outside the truck (somewhere) but> am at a loss for idea's, any suggestions welcome
 ============================================================================
 Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
 ------------------------------
 End of Toyota 4x4 digest: V2 #100
 *********************************
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