Toy4x4 Mailing List Digest v1n863 - - Off-Road.com
Toy4x4 Mailing List Digest v1n863

Source: Off-Road.com
 Toyota 4x4 digest:       Wednesday, May 20 1998       Volume 01 : Number 863
 -   Toyota 4x4 Mailing List  (Toy4x4)   ---
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 For Administrative questions/problems:
 owner-toy4x4@tlca.org
 Re: Rear Axle
 Chevy Small Block Swap
 Re: Leaf spring alternatives
 What the ______?!
 Re: Toyota 4x4 digest: V1 #861
 Track Bar
 Leaf spring alternatives
 Re: Rear Axle
 Re: Bobbing a bed.....anybody have some ideas?
 Re: yokohama tires??
 whistling truck
 cheap trick
 Re: whistling truck
 Re: Bobbing a bed.....anybody have some ideas?
 Re: What the ______?!
 Re: Rear Axle
 Re: Leaf spring alternatives
 lock out hubs, rear diff fluid, pulley bearings, etc.
 Re: Leaf spring alternatives
 re:ft driveshaft u-joint
 re:ft driveshaft u-joint
 New Lister has Shimmy, Shake & Roll- Longish
 re:rear axle
 wheels (backspacing)
 alcan #
 Rear Gas Tanks
 RE:nail in tire
 New Land Cruisers, was What the...
 Re: Leaf spring alternatives
 Re: Rear Gas Tanks
 Re: New Lister has Shimmy, Shake & Roll- Longish
 Hail Damage
 Re: What the ______?!
 Slotted/Drilled brake rotors
 trailer pigtail
 DriveTrain Woes
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 19 May 1998 20:19:18 EDT
 From: DRM033  Subject: Re: Rear Axle
 In a message dated 98-05-19 19:42:17 EDT, you write:>>  I put an 88 rear on my 84, and the only down side was it is now like having>  33s on the back.  The speedo is about 12 mph slow @ 55mph.> would you mind explaining this?  You should not have any change as long as the
 gear ratio's are the same.
 David
 DRM033@aol.com
 ============================================================================
 Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 19 May 1998 17:16:45 -0700 (PDT)
 From: jim lawrence  Subject: Chevy Small Block Swap
 First of all I apologize to anyone who says I should use the archizes
 for this one.  I spent 2 hours and only gathered bits and pieces.
 Moving on...I am looking for information on putting a 305 or 350
 (which is suggested) into my 86 4x4.  I would like someone who HAS
 gone through this task already and let me know what kind of problems I
 should look for, and what I need ahead of time to be prepared.  I am
 hoping to do it in a long weekend, well most anyways.
 I know Advance makes adapters for almost everything-but some things
 haven't been mentioned before
 My Concerns-
 Moving the transfer case
 Gauges
 Squeezing in a bigger radiator
 Extra weight in the front?
 Anything else unexpected
 Please email me back personally whenever convienent@ bkdlays@aol.com
 Thanks-
 Jim
 PS- I am the guy that offers stereo equipment below wholesale and free
 technical advice, if I missed anyone in my first offer, please ask
 again- I wasn't prepared for so many questions.
 _________________________________________________________
 DO YOU YAHOO!?
 Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
 ============================================================================
 Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 19 May 1998 20:44:51 -0400
 From: Charles Brooks  Subject: Re: Leaf spring alternatives
 Tony Bartlett wrote:> A relatively little fabrication would be to get a front mount welded on> leaving the stock one.  See Jay's Mazda spring conversion.  Then do the> same thing with the rear shackle.  Buy a shackle mount and weld it on> just behind the stock one, there should be enough room.  That might give> you with length you need.
 That's an idea, I didn't think of moving the rear shackle mount!
 I think putting a longer spring on the front would be a little
 more difficult. Ha anyone done this?
 Charles Brooks
 ============================================================================
 Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 19 May 1998 17:54:29 -0700
 From: Scott Wilson  Subject: What the ______?!
 (Insert your own adjetive in the subject line)
 The last two days I've seen this big ugly RAV4 lookin' thing wearing a
 Lexus badge on the grill!   I truely HOPE they're not considering going
 that direction with the Land Cruiser!!!    Please somebody tell me
 they're not!
 Scott
 - --
 _____
 /_/_|_\__      Scott Wilson
 | _     _ :     Santa Clara, CA
 */_\---/_\'     http://www.off-road.com/~swilson
 (_)   (_)
 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
 ============================================================================
 Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 19 May 1998 21:19:04 EDT
 From: Mar1col  Subject: Re: Toyota 4x4 digest: V1 #861
 Please donit send as of May 18, 1998.
 Thanks,
 R. T. Cole/mar1col@aol.com
 ============================================================================
 Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 20 May 1998 11:59:01 EST
 From: "james stevenson"  Subject: Track Bar>what would be the disadvantage of running two bars with heims at>both ends,one end on or near the frame (on each side) and the other>to the top of the diff?
 Jack Alford Wrote>Well, the biggest disadvantage to me is the loss of ground clearance> as the links on a Toy truck would have to be so long ... Look at a> 4Runner, the links
 The link rods don't have to be straight. My Vlink rods are bent to clear
 the 2 fuel tanks on either side of the drive shaft. Also I cut a section
 out of the tank the rod goes up into. That was a result of more travel
 added later on. Another way is to add a 2-3 inch body lift and relocate
 the tank up 2 inch. This will allow the rod to sit under the tank.
 Jay Kopycinski Wrote>This is essentially what James does with his v-link though his is a> beefier design. If you're gonna go this route you'd better make sure> it's plenty strong. James' design does this well.
 The difference is the point on the v is at the axle on this setup and
 mine its on the Tcase crossmember. The real problem is the axle moving
 back under compression. While Lays' link is and ideal solution for
 controlling wrap up. An improvement would use helm joints at the shackle
 and axle to remove binding. However with low gears , big tyres and
 lockers ect. You run the risk of snapping an axle housing. This can be
 solved with some bracing of the axle (fill in the line from the top of
 the pumpkin to the spring pads above and below the tubes).
 James Stevenson (TonkaTuf)
 ______________________________________________________
 Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
 ============================================================================
 Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 20 May 1998 12:00:51 EST
 From: "james stevenson"  Subject: Leaf spring alternatives
 Jack Alford Wrote>Another thing is that the XJ springs are 56" long eye-to-eye> Compared to the Toy springs at 47" and Mazda springs at 52".> Needless to say that both of the spring mounts will need to be> moved...
 Only if you stay semi-elliptic. Go full elliptic and you can use the
 stock mounts with springs up to 60 inch
 Charles Brooks Wrote>I don't have access to the welder and torches I had last summer> (Not to mention I don't want to do anything permanent till I'm sure
 it's> what I want!) So I need a solution with relatively little fabrication.> How much articulation do you think would be possible with the YJ> lifted springs?
 The Long spring semi elliptic  (like the Mazda swap) gives about 35%
 more travel, change to full elliptic you get 67% over stock or more
 amazing 33% more than the Mazda swap over stock. To do full elliptic you
 need to get a set of lift shackles and a bar with helm joints on it. The
 whole setup can be returned to stook as it is a Bolton
 James Stevenson (TonkaTuf)
 ______________________________________________________
 Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
 ============================================================================
 Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 19 May 1998 19:08:03 -0700
 From: Scott Muir  Subject: Re: Rear Axle
 Ben Harrison wrote:>I put an 88 rear on my 84, and the only down side was it is now like having>33s on the back.  The speedo is about 12 mph slow @ 55mph.
 This doesn't necessarily have to happen.  You can just stuff your old 3rd member into the new tube.  This would be the result of different gearing in the diff.
 Anyway, if you notice that much of a difference, I hope you matched the front diff to it.
 Scott.
 ============================================================================
 Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 19 May 1998 19:07:42 -7 GMT
 From: "Leo G. Divinagracia III"  Subject: Re: Bobbing a bed.....anybody have some ideas?> From: "Jay Kopycinski" >> Anybody bobbed a bed or seen it done and have some good> ideas on how to go about doing it?>> What would be the best way to slice it up?
 a plasma cutter does wonders...>> How about putting it back together......butt the panels and weld it> and weld it with what?.........or flange one end of the panels, overlap> it and braze it, mig it, tig it, liquid nails it?
 probably the flange will be the best.  unless of course you're planning on
 putting a lot of weight or stress.  then a good 16 gauge flat piece underneath
 welded (and maybe riveted).  gussets if you have room...>> Looking for ideas and experiences........let me know. Thanks.> recently, i'm finishing my front mounted hitch to support the quick mount
 winch so i talked to my welder to brace the hell out of it making sure that
 if something breaks, it's the 4 bolts that hold the winch on the mounting
 plate.  he gusseted on parts he though he'd normally wouldn't.  i asked for
 extra welds also.  you can never too safe or too sorry.  sure, the mounting
 plate for the winch weighs a ton, but at least when i'm stuck axle deep in
 goo again, that's the last of my worries...
 - -----------------------
 Leo G. Divinagracia III
 ldivinag@csuhayward.edu
 ============================================================================
 Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 19 May 1998 19:10:28 -7 GMT
 From: "Leo G. Divinagracia III"  Subject: Re: yokohama tires??> From: Kathy & Ken Horn >> I am in the market for new tires and sort of thought those new yokohama> geolander m/t tires looked pretty good, but i have never heard of how> these tires wear, ride, and handle rocks and mud.  If there is anyone> who has ran yokos would you please tell me how you liked them.> recently went through some rocks at prarie city svra.  simple and short, but
 i have two cuts, one open and one sliced on the sidewalls of my yokkie super
 diggers.  while not loosing air, it maybe dangerous when the rubicon trip
 comes around that i may need to load both spares...
 - -----------------------
 Leo G. Divinagracia III
 ldivinag@csuhayward.edu
 ============================================================================
 Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 19 May 1998 22:10:17 EDT
 From: DRM033  Subject: whistling truck
 I have a whistle in my truck.  First it is a 90 model 22RE.  I am trying to
 locate a whistle that occurs only at & above 3 grand on the tach.  I just
 replaced the y pipe that was cracked & thought the whistle was from that, but
 it is still there.  I am thinking it could either be idler pulley bearings or
 fan belts slipping at that RPM.  I am gonna try removing the belts one at a
 time & narrow things down.  Will this hurt the engine?  I already have new
 belts to put on tonight.  The present belts are old, but seem to still be in
 ok shape & seemingly tight.  Any feedback on what the problem might be is very
 welcome.
 thanks
 - ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 David Moore                                 DRM033@aol.com
 TLCA #5662
 Traxx In Motion 4 Wheel Drive Club
 http://www.Tennessee4X4.com/traxx
 - ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 ============================================================================
 Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 19 May 1998 22:15:31 EDT
 From: DRM033  Subject: cheap trick
 I just figured out a great cheap trick for woring in & around the engine of
 your truck.  I just happened to be around when they cleaned out the medical
 office next door & picked up some free exam lights - the ones with the
 flexible extension head & adjustable height.  They make the best engine work
 light.  I have two right now over the engine & I can see every little nook &
 cranny.
 You should be able to find some of these at flea markets or other cheap
 stores.
 - ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 David Moore                                 DRM033@aol.com
 TLCA #5662
 Traxx In Motion 4 Wheel Drive Club
 http://www.Tennessee4X4.com/traxx
 - ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 ============================================================================
 Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 19 May 1998 21:23:00 -0500
 From: "Steve C."  Subject: Re: whistling truck
 DRM033 wrote:>> I have a whistle in my truck.
 sure you dont want to keep those kind of details personal?
 - --
 Steve Capuano			1996 Tacoma ext cab V6 4X4
 stevecapuano@geocities.com	32x11.50x15 BFG MT
 Houston, Texas			Rear LockRight  K&N filter
 Edelbrock headers
 NRA lifetime member		Dynomax 2.5" cat back
 ============================================================================
 Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 19 May 1998 22:33:01 -0400
 From: Scott  Subject: Re: Bobbing a bed.....anybody have some ideas?
 At 02:43 PM 5/19/98 -0700, you wrote:>Anybody bobbed a bed or seen it done and have some good>ideas on how to go about doing it?> I was just down at GSMTR, and saw a couple of bobbed beds.  One was a newer
 model pickup, painted in Toyota racing trim.  It was absolutely beautiful.
 The bed ended right behind the rear shackles.  I didn't get to talk to the
 guy, but maybe I can dig up someone who has.  You might even see it in an
 upcoming issue of one of the magazines.
 Oh, by the way, Tellico is extremely fun, and the Toyota event was
 spectacular.  It was really nice to meet so many nice people willing to
 swap ideas and such.  Especially Marlin.  That is one nice guy.
 Scott
 ============================================================================
 Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 19 May 1998 20:25:52 -0700
 From: Jim Brink  Subject: Re: What the ______?!
 Scott Wilson wrote:>> (Insert your own adjetive in the subject line)>> The last two days I've seen this big ugly RAV4 lookin' thing wearing a> Lexus badge on the grill!   I truely HOPE they're not considering going> that direction with the Land Cruiser!!!    Please somebody tell me> they're not!> It probably WAS the new Land Cruiser V8/LX 470 (UZJ100-L).
 Hmm. I never looked at it as a big RAV-4. Guess they're all going
 towards that look.
 Anyways, I had one of these to drive for the weekend. The V8 is nice and
 smooth. The front suspension (coil-sprung IFS of course) leaves a little
 to be desired...
 - --
 Jim Brink, Toyota/ASE Certified Technician    1986 Toyota Std. Bed 4WD
 Manhattan Beach, CA			      32x11.50/15 BFG M/Ts
 ToyTech@Off-Road.com                          4.88s/Downey LSD/EZ Locker
 ************************************************************************
 TLCA - Friends of the Mojave Road (FOMR) - CA4WDC
 http://www.off-road.com/~toytech/
 www.off-road.com  Putting Off-Road, Online!
 ============================================================================
 Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 19 May 1998 20:46:57 -0700
 From: "Brandon Miller"  Subject: Re: Rear Axle
 why?  The only thing that changed is your track width??  Same gears right?
 /\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\
 /\/\/\/\
 Brandon Miller        ICQ# 8392888
 Sacramento CA
 email - miller@csus.edu
 home page - http://gaia.ecs.csus.edu/~millerb
 /\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\
 /\/\/\/\
 - -----Original Message-----
 From: Ben Harrison  To: toy4x4@tlca.org  Date: Tuesday, May 19, 1998 4:44 PM
 Subject: Re: Rear Axle>I put an 88 rear on my 84, and the only down side was it is now like having>33s on the back.  The speedo is about 12 mph slow @ 55mph.>>At 10:58 PM 5/18/98 -0400, you wrote:>>I'm about to buy a used complete rear axle assembly. I know that 86 and>>ups have a 3" wider track. I'm wondering what experiences, good or bad,>>people have had with swapping to the wider axle.>>>>For example, when in mud, does the rear get squirelly because it can't sit>>in the same ruts as the front? or is this good, giving the rear better>>traction?>>>>Do you find yourself catching the rear on obstacles more?>>>>I know that it will vastly improve articulation and stability.>>>>Thanks for any input!>>>>Eli Madden, N1XCZ>>Middlebury, Vermont>>'83 SR5 Shortbed 4x4 [ANYWARE]>>31" Muds, 3" Front Springs (sits level), '87 22R>>eli@computeralt.com>>>>>>==========================================================================
 ==>>Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota>>>>===========================================================================
 =>Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
 ============================================================================
 Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 19 May 1998 20:57:37 -0700
 From: "Brandon Miller"  Subject: Re: Leaf spring alternatives>Jack Alford Wrote>>Another thing is that the XJ springs are 56" long eye-to-eye>> Compared to the Toy springs at 47" and Mazda springs at 52".>> Needless to say that both of the spring mounts will need to be>> moved...
 Why?>>Only if you stay semi-elliptic. Go full elliptic and you can use the>stock mounts with springs up to 60 inch> hate to sound stupid but I am sure that I am not the only one that doesn't
 get what you mean with the elliptical.>To do full elliptic you>need to get a set of lift shackles and a bar with helm joints on it. The>whole setup can be returned to stook as it is a Bolton> Explain please??
 Anyone know the length of the T100 springs?  Why don't more people use
 these? If anyone has a pair laying around I'd be glad to give them a shot
 and document it on the web ;-)
 Sounds like many people have used the mazda swap, what is the consensus on
 where to mount the hangers.  But it to the old one, or shave off some and
 then but it to the old one.  I would rather have my lift shackles lay back
 to take advantage of them.  I think I'd rather get the T100 springs and
 place them so the shackle sits back at atleast 20degrees (I have noticed a
 lot of stock vehicles like this) and then I can drill the center hole
 accordingly.  Are there any on-line pics other than Jay's?  (nice article
 and pics).  By the way, I am sure not everyone has a pair of downey's laying
 around, I know I don't.  See any problem with throwing my current add a leaf
 into the mazda pack?
 Thanks,
 Brandon Miller
 ============================================================================
 Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 20 May 1998 00:22:32 EDT
 From: DRM033  Subject: lock out hubs, rear diff fluid, pulley bearings, etc.
 (she's a long one)
 I am doing some last minute crash maint. to my truck before the trail ride
 this weekend, but I am running into some situations...
 Last Sunday we went riding & we get to the first mud hole & Dave has only rear
 wheel drive.  I figured the pass. hub was screwed up & I was right.  I got the
 truck to move around enough to get the front tire on dry ground so I could
 take it apart.  The lock out was filthy inside so I had to clean as best as I
 could on the trail & re-assemble.  They are already hard to turn (maybe the
 lost *lock* ball that is supposed to be on the spring being replaced with a
 tiny round-top screw has something to do with this?) Anyway, I pulled &
 repaired it again a few minutes ago.  A few questions:
 - -Is there some way to get the outer paper seals to actually seal?
 - -anyone know the size of those little balls that go on the springs in the caps
 so I can put some back in there?
 I also checked the rear diff fluid.  I always have the oil change place change
 it, & when I went to open the filler fluid poured out.  I would guess probably
 a little less than a pint came out.  How did they get this to stay in while
 they put it in?  Isn't this too much fluid?  What is the correct ammount?
 Now, about that whistle.  I have checked the belts - they are tight & in good
 shape.  I used white lithium grease to spray on the backs of the pulleys as
 best as I could & that managed to eliminate the whistle around 3000 rpm.  Now,
 when she gets up to around 4200 rpm it squeals.  I have narrowed it down to
 the lower idler pulley or the something else on that side.  Could this squeal
 just be the belts at such a high rpm?  the squeal sounds kinda like a slipping
 belt, but I am not sure.
 Anyway, enough for tonight.  starting at 9 am I will be building the bed bar-
 ammo tool box rack-Hi Lift jack rack-antenna mount thingie.  At 3 pm I am
 scheduled to head over to another friend's house for the lock-rite install.
 Thusrday is for the finishing touches & shining the truck up a bit (as well as
 it will shine with the scratched paint & rusty chrome wheels...) I would bet
 there is not a sq. inch on my truck's body that does not have a *nice* scratch
 on it...
 sorry this is so long
 - ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 David Moore                                 DRM033@aol.com
 TLCA #5662
 Traxx In Motion 4 Wheel Drive Club
 http://www.Tennessee4X4.com/traxx
 - ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 ============================================================================
 Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 20 May 1998 00:29:56 EDT
 From: DRM033  Subject: Re: Leaf spring alternatives
 In a message dated 98-05-19 23:57:25 EDT, you write:>>  hate to sound stupid but I am sure that I am not the only one that doesn't>  get what you mean with the elliptical.
 SNIP>  Explain please??
 By full eliptical he means a shackle at both ends.

 I would really look into something like this.  You may want to use the mazda
 spring swap, but don't move the hangers.  simply build a V link (Jack A. has a
 great description on his page from James) & use the mazda springs with a a
 shackle in the front & back.  This requires a custom shackle for the previous
 solid mount spring eye, but you will be able to go back to stock springs at
 any time.
 The other way he mentioned was to use rods & extra spring hangers.  I too
 would like to hear more about this.
 James, you really gotta start metering this stuff out to us slower - it is
 hard to keep up!  ;)
 ============================================================================
 Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 19 May 1998 21:45:24 -0700
 From: "Raymond Kumar"  Subject: re:ft driveshaft u-joint
 Tru cross makes front shaft uj's for 79-83 models paart#1510-1
 Ray
 ============================================================================
 Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 19 May 1998 21:45:24 -0700
 From: "Raymond Kumar"  Subject: re:ft driveshaft u-joint
 Tru cross makes front shaft uj's for 79-83 models paart#1510-1
 Ray
 ============================================================================
 Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 19 May 1998 22:47:28 -0600
 From: "Marc F. Lemieux"  Subject: New Lister has Shimmy, Shake & Roll- Longish
 Well almost...
 Hello to all! As mentioned, I'm new to the list and have a question about a
 shimmy problem with my '90 SR5 4 Runner. I bought the truck from a
 friend about a year ago. At the time it had Yokohama Super Digger tires
 on it which I replaced back in Nov. '97 with OE Dunlop Gran Trek 31.5 x
 10. Although the Yokohamas had a small shake you could feel in the
 steering wheel (and see in the shifter knob), the Gran Trek's have a much
 more pronounced sort of gallopping. It is most prominent at 100 kmh.
 However it seems to largely disappear at times then reappear after, say,
 you turn a corner. Sometimes you can feel it in the brakes as you step on
 the pedal.
 I have had the tires balanced, rotated and re-balanced. Rims are straight. I
 have had the truck road-tested and the front end check by a Toyota front
 end technician/specialist, including the steering damper. A wheel
 alignment was completed. All checked out fine.
 On my last service at Toyota, I was told that there is slightly excessive
 wear in the r/f upper ball joint and some play in the U-joints (truck has
 200,000 Kms). Otherwise this truck has seen all Toyota recommended
 service intervals and required maintenance.
 My question...besides the tires having run out or some other unknown
 problem, are there any recalls, defects, Toyota service bulletins or other
 information known to listers relating to this problem?
 I plan to go for a drive today with the Runner and my suburban to see if I
 can spot a potential tire problem.
 Any help from the collective knowledge of the list would be very much
 appreciated!
 Oh, one other thing. Does anyone know where I can get a black Toyota
 grill guard for my truck.  They are listed as discontinued in Canada, so if
 someone in the US can help me find one I would sincerely appreciate it.
 (To acid bath and refinish the one I have they want $300 Can.)
 Best Regards to all!
 Marc Lemieux
 vfrbest@cadvision.com
 Calgary, Alberta
 '90 4 Runner
 '90 Suburban
 '90 VFR
 ============================================================================
 Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 19 May 1998 21:55:11 -0700
 From: "Raymond Kumar"  Subject: re:rear axle
 I'm running a 92 extracab axle in my 85 4runner and have found very little
 problems with this setup,the track if I remember correctly is 52",the
 bigger brakes are nice especially if you run the booster and master like
 I've installed.
 Ray
 ============================================================================
 Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 19 May 1998 10:02:52
 From: Rick Murray  Subject: wheels (backspacing)
 Marc wrote :>I have a question about wheels too. I have an '84 4x4 pickup, stock>suspension (except for the RS9000s) and would like to get different wheels>& tires. Will the stock '93 steel spokes (the 7" wide gray ones) work on>this truck? I'm planning on running 31x10.50.15 BFG mud-terrains.
 They will NOT fit.  IFS trucks come with wheels with 4.5 inch back-spacing.
 Solid-axle trucks come with 3.5 inch, and there is precious little room
 between
 the wheel and the tie-rod end.  They will more than just rub on the tie-rod
 ends,
 you will not be able to mount the wheel.
 About the same subject. Have any of you fellow  solid-axle-owners  had
 custom wheels made, with 2.5 inch backspacing ?  This would provide a slightly
 wider track, more stability, and protect the sheet metal a bit.  I imagine
 it would be harder on the wheel bearings in the front, but would that be of
 any
 real concern ?	  Any other down-sides ?  Costs for steel spoke wheels ?
 ============================================================================
 Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 19 May 1998 22:06:37 -0700
 From: "Brandon Miller"  Subject: alcan #
 anyone got alcans phone number?
 thanks
 /\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\
 /\/\/\/\
 Brandon Miller        ICQ# 8392888
 Sacramento CA
 email - miller@csus.edu
 home page - http://gaia.ecs.csus.edu/~millerb
 /\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\
 /\/\/\/\
 ============================================================================
 Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 20 May 1998 16:43:34 EST
 From: "james stevenson"  Subject: Rear Gas Tanks>I was looking for a tank that might fit flush in place of the spare
 tire.> My 4Runner tank hangs way low, and gets a beating. The factory> tank is a perfect place for a small air tank.
 The stock location you can fit a 200L tank and another 200L on the other
 side without drop below you ramp over angle. I use the 2 tanks on
 TonkaTuf2 with 2 more under the bed (100L diesel/ 100L water) plus 2
 batteries and other stuff. ARB have a 60L tank the goes between the bed
 and the spare. It does not lower the spare but takes up the room above
 it to the bed. Another option is a stainless tank made for powerboats.
 They will fit behind the crossmember easily and are reasonably priced. I
 setup my fillers by adding a cap on the other side and re welding the
 hinge do that the door opens the right way. I use a changeover solenoid
 on the tanks to switch lines. I also have a couple on the fuel returns
 to transfers between the tanks. I have the 100L tank under the bed as
 the main and the two 200L ones as Aux tanks. I switch to an aux, draw
 fuel from both 200L tanks  and the return line fills the main 100L tank
 . When the back tank is full I switch back to it. Also the overflow line
 on all three tanks are linked so I cant overfill the main tank. I can
 send a pic of the ARB tank if you like. It comes with a Y valve for the
 filler and an electric changeover. As for air tanks I fit scuba tanks
 under the kick pannel in the bed (outside the frame)
 James Stevenson (TonkaTuf)
 ______________________________________________________
 Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
 ============================================================================
 Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 19 May 1998 22:57:06 -0700
 From: Tyghe Tordoff  Subject: RE:nail in tire
 The way i have repaired tires is to take the tire off the rim (once you found the hole) and use what is called a COMBI patch.First the tire is drilled to clean the steel belts.Then it is buffed to clean the rubber on the inside of the tire.Then a tire cleaning solvent is used  on the buffed area to make sure the patch has a super clean surface to adhere to.The buffed area is then scraped to remove the rubber that has been buffed off.Now the cold vulcanization fluid(glue) is then applied and allowed to dry(cure)fully.now you take the COMBI (which is a plug with a patch onthe top. looks like a mushroom) plug and stick it in the hole (from the inside to the outside of the tire) and pull the stem tight. you then take a roller and roll the patch on the inside of the tire flat to make sure it has made good surface contact with the tire.Now you can cut off the piece of the stem about 3/8`` from the tread of the tire and re-install the tire on the rim.
 As far as I know this is the only speed rated repair available.I use it on my 31``s and have used it on pinto`s,a viper and a school bus+ every thing in between.
 ============================================================================
 Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 20 May 1998 00:56:26 -0700 (PDT)
 From: Jon Brandt  Subject: New Land Cruisers, was What the...
 On Tue, 19 May 1998, Jim Brink wrote:> Anyways, I had one of these to drive for the weekend. The V8 is nice and> smooth. The front suspension (coil-sprung IFS of course) leaves a little> to be desired...> just out of curiousity, what more is to be desired from the new cruiser's
 IFS suspension? I am not in the market, so I have not driven one. Are they
 way too soft, just like the Tacomas, ect.?
 I am dissapointed with the Tacos. The crossmember/skid plate is sad. I
 would not want to drag one over rocks. The crossmember no longer
 protects the t-case. If you land it, the weight is supported by the
 transmission, rather than cross  member. The paper thin plate under the
 t-case doesn't seem like it serves any practical purpose. I like how the
 older models will not easily contact the transmission. The 2" gain in
 ground clearance is with a sacrafice of protection. An extra plate would
 be a must on the Taco, in my opinion.
 Jon Brandt
 ============================================================================
 Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 20 May 1998 01:16:28 -0700 (PDT)
 From: Jon Brandt  Subject: Re: Leaf spring alternatives
 With all the track bars and double shackle eliptical set-ups, longer
 springs, ect. ect., it sounds like ye' all are try'n to mimic the 2nd
 gen. 4Runner coil suspension. Maybe you could use an axle assembly from a
 newer 4Runner and weld in some plates to hold coil springs and heim joint
 the links. Finding coil springs would probably not be as hard to find as
 we may think.
 Once you get into fabricating track bars, you might as well think from
 scratch.
 Just a thought, Jon Brandt.
 ============================================================================
 Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 20 May 1998 01:36:53 -0700 (PDT)
 From: Jon Brandt  Subject: Re: Rear Gas Tanks
 Sounds Real Simple Jimmy. :)
 On Wed, 20 May 1998, james stevenson wrote:>>I was looking for a tank that might fit flush in place of the spare> tire.>> My 4Runner tank hangs way low, and gets a beating. The factory>> tank is a perfect place for a small air tank.>> The stock location you can fit a 200L tank and another 200L on the other> side without drop below you ramp over angle. I use the 2 tanks on> TonkaTuf2 with 2 more under the bed (100L diesel/ 100L water) plus 2> batteries and other stuff. ARB have a 60L tank the goes between the bed> and the spare. It does not lower the spare but takes up the room above> it to the bed. Another option is a stainless tank made for powerboats.> They will fit behind the crossmember easily and are reasonably priced. I> setup my fillers by adding a cap on the other side and re welding the> hinge do that the door opens the right way. I use a changeover solenoid> on the tanks to switch lines. I also have a couple on the fuel returns> to transfers between the tanks. I have the 100L tank under the bed as> the main and the two 200L ones as Aux tanks. I switch to an aux, draw> fuel from both 200L tanks  and the return line fills the main 100L tank> . When the back tank is full I switch back to it. Also the overflow line> on all three tanks are linked so I cant overfill the main tank. I can> send a pic of the ARB tank if you like. It comes with a Y valve for the> filler and an electric changeover. As for air tanks I fit scuba tanks> under the kick pannel in the bed (outside the frame)>> James Stevenson (TonkaTuf)>>> ______________________________________________________> Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com>> ============================================================================> Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota> ============================================================================
 Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 20 May 1998 05:49:17 -0500
 From: Mike Tolliver  Subject: Re: New Lister has Shimmy, Shake & Roll- Longish
 You might try having the tires balenced on the truck.  Some shops do this and
 I've found I get a much better balance.  I've had some shakes a regular computer
 balance wouldn't fix but getting the tires balanced on the truck took care of
 every time.
 Mike Tolliver
 t1der@bellsouth.net
 Marc F. Lemieux wrote:> Well almost...>> Hello to all! As mentioned, I'm new to the list and have a question about a> shimmy problem with my '90 SR5 4 Runner. I bought the truck from a> friend about a year ago. At the time it had Yokohama Super Digger tires> on it which I replaced back in Nov. '97 with OE Dunlop Gran Trek 31.5 x> 10. Although the Yokohamas had a small shake you could feel in the> steering wheel (and see in the shifter knob), the Gran Trek's have a much> more pronounced sort of gallopping. It is most prominent at 100 kmh.
 ============================================================================
 Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 20 May 1998 07:10:06 -0500
 From: "Edward C. Fisher"  Subject: Hail Damage>Well, now that the engine is working fine, something else had to go>wrong, didn't it????  We had really bad weather here in MN last Friday.>Her truck got caught in a hail storm....  Poor girl - she's only had the>thing about 6 weeks!> Brian:
 Before she succumbs to a high estimate for body work and a repaint, have her
 go to a 'paintless dent repair' shop.  These places specialize in damages
 like door dings and hail.  I have had work done on my BMW here in Dallas
 that was first rate.  I paid 50.00 for two door dings after getting an
 estimate for 600.00 for body work and repaint.  The sooner she gets it done
 the better the chances of a good result.  For some reason the sheet metal
 likes to go back to it's original shape more readily if the metal is put
 back in a timely manner.  Get referrals if possible.  The shop I chose fixed
 over 50 Lexus' after a hail storm here in Texas.
 Good luck,
 Ed Fisher
 ============================================================================
 Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 20 May 1998 08:23:58 -0400
 From: Chris Knight  Subject: Re: What the ______?!
 Jim Brink wrote:>> Scott Wilson wrote:>>>> (Insert your own adjetive in the subject line)>>>> The last two days I've seen this big ugly RAV4 lookin' thing wearing a>> Lexus badge on the grill!   I truely HOPE they're not considering going>> that direction with the Land Cruiser!!!    Please somebody tell me>> they're not!>>>> It probably WAS the new Land Cruiser V8/LX 470 (UZJ100-L).>> Hmm. I never looked at it as a big RAV-4. Guess they're all going> towards that look.>> Anyways, I had one of these to drive for the weekend. The V8 is nice and> smooth. The front suspension (coil-sprung IFS of course) leaves a little> to be desired...
 He is probably referring to the RX 300 (I think that's the designation)
 It is their answer to the Mercedes M-class. If I could afford one I
 would get it for my wife but it's definately not an Off-Road vehicle.
 ============================================================================
 Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 20 May 1998 08:42:08 -0400
 From: Ed.Wong@astramerck.com
 Subject: Slotted/Drilled brake rotors> Anyone else have any good luck with> the Power Slots?
 Ive had both the NWOR drilled rotors and recently the
 Performance Products PowerStop rotors.
 Both of these were "drilled" and not slotted.
 Personally I think the NWOR rotors are drilled "wrong".
 There are too many holes...
 I had a problem with "ridges" forming on the NWOR rotors.
 The PowerStops have been good so far (not that many miles
 on em yet)
 The NWOR's were yanked because the ridges had gotten
 unreasoably high and hte back side of the rotors
 were "rusted/trashed" because the inside pads on
 the calipers had frozen (gee - after 265K - even
 with annual brake bleedings, things wear out)
 Interesting enough - the supplier I use for Repco
 Metal Master pads (who does SCCA racing) notes that
 there is really no difference in braking power between
 a drilled and non drilled rotor (assuming they were
 vented to begin with) They do mention that they do
 "look" way cool.
 The Porche's etc that have them OEM use a "forged"
 Brembo rotor on a "hat" - very different than your
 OEM single casting...
 EWong
 ============================================================================
 Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 20 May 1998 08:45:03 -0400
 From: Ed.Wong@astramerck.com
 Subject: trailer pigtail> does the wiring come down the drivers side of the> chassis or the passenger,s side?
 The wiring on my 89 (gen1) 4Runner is down BOTH sides of the truck.
 You can pull the tail lights and tap in there.
 The Yota OEM wiring *manual* is simply marvelous.
 Also - there is a gromet for the tailgate harness
 on the *drivers* side, so if you want a really clean install,
 I'd fish the cables out that side. Then you can ty-rap
 the harness-es togheter.
 EWong
 ============================================================================
 Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 20 May 1998 09:18:57 -0400
 From: Ed.Wong@astramerck.com
 Subject: DriveTrain Woes
 Eli Madden [w/ drivetrain troubles]>> CV rebuild...
 I've seen NWOR offer a kit to rebuild the CV - about $50
 Check a yard though - they might sell the entire
 front shaft for less. Besides we all know about NWOR...>> Front Pinion Bearing [rear diff] Q...
 Well Eli - I may get some flak from Jim Brink on this one,
 but I cant figure out how to remove the front pinion
 bearing w/o the SST...
 While the SST for removing the seal is simply trick,
 it really isnt necessary....
 The oil slinger washers can be pulled out with a
 home made coat hanger tool.
 The bearing - well after much use, its semi press fit
 onto the pinion shaft. There really isnt much to "grab"
 on the pinion bearing itself. The SST uses a really
 thin/shallow teeth to grab the inner race and a screw
 arrangement ot gently pull it out. Normal sized
 gear puller jaws wont be able to gab the inner race.
 Also, once you get the bearing out - how are you going
 to pull the race out? At this time there *might*
 be enough room to get gear puller jaws on to the race,
 and using a "bridge" arrangement, along with a piece of
 3"+ wide flat stock (with a hole drilled so it can clear
 the pinion shaft) pull the race out.
 All of this depends on your goals....
 I had a rear pinion that was going south.
 I ordered the SST (about $100 if I recall -
 single and easily seperated from my $$$)
 Pulled the bearing and then stared at the race
 (did not want to spend $$ for gear pullers)
 For about 150K I ran the diff with a bad bearing
 and just put spacers/seals in every 30-40K.
 Then I pulled it apart and the bearing fell apart.
 Fished out all the rollers and said - what the
 hay - and put the new bearing in on top of the
 old race and *cranked* on the pinion nut to
 "set" it... Ran like that for another 15K before
 it made enough noise that I put in a junkyard
 diff ($350).
 Running like this will also take out Ujoints
 faster than normal offroad abuse will...
 The main problem is that the crush sleeve is
 *behind* the pinion bearing... so unless you get
 the bearing out - you cant replace the crush
 sleeve.
 I've had *mild* success (as per above) by just
 cranking harder on the pinion nut (use a new one)
 but - hey - as an engineer - that an abomination
 (but thats the way *field* engineers work)
 Good Luck!
 EWong
 ============================================================================
 Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
 ------------------------------
 End of Toyota 4x4 digest: V1 #863
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