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Toy4x4 Mailing List Digest v1n747

Publish date: Mar 6, 1998
By: ORC STAFF
Source: Off-Road.com

Toy4x4 Digest Fri, 6 Mar 98 12:30:02 (HST) Volume 1 : Issue 747
Today's Topics:
2wd rear spring plates/ u-bolts
92 4Runner rewiring... (2 msgs)
95 1/2 Tacoma for sale
A-C
ADMIN: & Beach stuff - take it private already!
E-Mail Address Change
Exhaust noise (2 msgs)
Front Drive Shaft
Heater Options (3 msgs)
K&N Filters
My passenger door handle won't work
Mystery Emision Fitting
Near Roll over, animated gif
noises
Platinum Plugs
recall
Roof Rack
Seat belt locking up
Sticking Windows
stuff I see for sale
Subject: Gasoline.....THE FINAL WORD(S)
TJM Bumpers (2 msgs)
Toy4x4 Digest V1 #745
Toy4x4 Digest V1 #746 Bad vibes
Which Lift??? (3 msgs)
WHO'S GOT GAS?
Why bother with high octane gas?
Years & Gears (2 msgs)
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Fri, 06 Mar 1998 15:38:00 -0600
From: Mark Kitlinski Subject: 2wd rear spring plates/ u-bolts
To: "Toy4x4@tlca.org" > I plan to flip my u-bolts soon and was thinking of welding a mount to> the front of the axle tube, but want to see Brandon's idea first before> I decide.>> Jay Kopycinski '85 Toylet (ROKTOY)
I mounted mine more along the lines that you hinted at above. Mine are
actually on top of the axle, but if you wanted to run Rancho 9012's (I'm only
running 10 inch travel ones, I forget the number off hand) you could probably
move it down a bit and fit them in. I have a couple of pics of the rear end
on my homepage, I think you can see it pretty well.
That swap would probably go good with your 2wd Mazda springs, as you can get
tons of travel out of the shock by laying it down like that.
- --
Mark Kitlinski
'85 Xtra cab
Kitlinski@worldnet.att.net
http://www.geocities.com/baja/dunes/2580/
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 Mar 1998 07:00:09 -0800
From: "Farrales, Deo" Subject: 92 4Runner rewiring...
To: "'Toy4x4@tlca.org'" Hey guys,
I posted this message yesterday on the OFC BB I didn't get much response
(yeah, I know, I should've posted hear first but I was at my girlfriends
house and she doesn't get this mailing list)
Well, here's what I'm trying to do... (BTW, I have a 92 Runner)I want
to have full time power to my CB and power windows. As per Chris
Geiger's
suggestion (thanks again Chris!), I purchased a seperate fuse box to
connect directly to the battery. Now, that leads me to my two
questions:
(Remember that this is coming from a very electrically UNeducated person
:-) )
- - What's the best way to run the wire from the battery, through the
firewall, into the truck? I followed the wires that go inside the truck
and they seem to go through a rubber boot thingy that, I guess, protects
the inside of the truck for stuff like engine noise. Is it as easy
as running the new wire through this rubber boot into the inside of
the truck. If so, where does that lead to? (seems like somewhere behind
the glove compartment) Is it easy to access? Someone mentioned to me
that they ran a wire throught the firewall by following the hood release
cable.
- - Chris told me that, for the power windows, I need to cut the black
w/ orange stripe wire that comes from the relay in the driver's side
kick panel and wire it into the new fuse box. Well, I was looking at
my Chilton's (saving up so I can buy Toyota's repair manual) and it
shows the power widow/lock master switch leading to the door control
relay then connecting to the intergration relay with the black/orange
wire. Is this the wire? This is where I get lost in the electronic
terminology. The integration relay shows it connecting to a 10A fuse.
Is the the integration relay the fuse box? If so, then I was looking
at the correct wire. It is the black with orange stripe wire connecting
to the top of the fuse box (with a few other wires in the same
vicinity).
(please respond directly as well as to the list... I'm in digest :-) )
Excuse my electronic ignorance, but I'm trying :-) I'd appreciate any
advice given. Thanks...
~~Deo ------------------------------
Date: Fri, 06 Mar 1998 11:12:47 -0800
From: Chris Geiger Subject: 92 4Runner rewiring...
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org, Deo@Guittard.com> What's the best way to run the wire from the battery, through the> firewall, into the truck?
There is a small hole near the where the steering wheel goes through the
fire wall, poke a hole in the black plastic insert and run your wires
through there. I have a bout 15 wires going through that one hole on my
truck.
Chris Geiger 93 4Runner http://geiger.mcl.ucsb.edu/offroad.html
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 06 Mar 1998 13:23:48 PST
From: "Terry Parker" Subject: 95 1/2 Tacoma for sale
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
I hate to sell this truck but getting married and need to get a more
roomy vehicle. What would be a good asking price for this truck? Any
help or offers would be greatly appreciated.
95 1/2 Tacoma LX
Black w/ Oak interior
50K miles
3.4l v6 extra cab 4wd
Downey 3" lift front and rear
K&N air filter
Smittybuilt dual tube rear bumber w/ trailer hitch
Genuine Toyota bed liner and bug shield
All black genuine Toyota paint including bumpers and grill (Custom
painted)
no chrome
32"x11.50 BFG A/T's on 8" Eagle aluminum 5 spoke wheels
Kenwood AM/FM cassette w/ 10 disk cd player
2 100W Kenwood amps
Boston accoustics 6 1/2" speakers w/ separate tweeters in front
Mpact 10" bass w/ mid range speakers in rear
Complete alarm system w/ keyless entry
Excelent truck, have had no problems what so ever.
Make an offer and I will reluctantly consider.
I paid 19.5K off the showroom floor, all customizing came later.
What should I ask for it?
Terry Parker Mesquite Tx.
______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 06 Mar 1998 06:31:34 -0500
From: Ed Ruf Subject: A-C
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
At 07:57 PM 3/5/98 -0600, Robert Stein illustriously expounded:>>Hit A-C button next to fan speed lever and it lights up when the fan>comes on. Compressor doesn't :(>I've checked the fuse, it's good, hot wired the compressor clutch and>it's good.>Anyone have any suggestions on where to go now and what/where is this>A/C Amplifier it shows ? Might the problem be in there ?>It's coming up FAST on what looks like a H O T Oklahoma summer and I'm>getting prepared early ....
I'd check:
1. A/C amplifier setting. On my '86/'87s it's in the back of the glovebox.
Just unsnap the cloth from the back of the glovebox from the dash. It's
left of center just above the opening, IIRC. There's a small pot screw for
adjustment. Hmmm, actually, unless it's REALLY out, you can check it
another way. The amplifier sets the min rpm at which the compressor clutch
will stay energized. Turn the fan and A/C on. Open the hood and the raise
the engine rpmwith the throttle and look to see if the clutch engages.
Otherwise, I don't remember which way the adjustment goes on the pot.
2. Freon charge. There is a low pressure switch in the system. Below it's
set pressure the clutch isn't allowed to be energized.
Ed
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 Mar 1998 10:56:08 -0000
From: runars@isbank.is
Subject: ADMIN: & Beach stuff - take it private already!
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Yeah, lets stop talking about irrelevant issues, like trail closures and
lift laws and the like, and concentrate on issues that really matters to
4wheelers, like stereos, thermostats and liftkits.....
Excuse me....!
Runar.> -----Original Message-----> From: daves8@juno.com [SMTP:daves8@juno.com]> Sent: Friday, March 06, 1998 12:49 AM> To: Toy4x4@tlca.org> Subject: Re: ADMIN: & Beach stuff - take it private already!>> Proper 4x4 etiquette is not appropriate to a 4x4 list?>> Sorry, I don't see that one.......>>> Dave Schoenberg, Arvada, Colorado-----Who else gives advice like> this???> '81 Toy/'86 EFI engine/5-spd/xfer--an' I did it all myself, with NO> Liquid Nails!!> Brakes and heater both work exceedingly well, thank you.> Thank You for subscribing to "Dave's Automotively Mechanical Humor> Line".> DaveS8@Juno.com>>> On Thu, 5 Mar 1998 00:45:41 EST writes:>>In a message dated 98-03-04 22:51:44 EST, you write:>>> Why is this discussion no longer heading anywhere?>>DRM033 answers:>>........... In the list rules, it says that this is a TOYOTA list,> and> we should "try" to stick to this topic. If it goes too far from this> and/or is no longer relevant to the list, it should be taken private.> Simple. This discussion has gone to just a difference of opinions> -one> side says he was right, another says he was wrong. I don't see where> this is going anywhere, and is not relevant to the majority of the> list.>>>> _____________________________________________________________________> You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.> Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com> Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 06 Mar 1998 10:34:18 -0500
From: "Eli Madden" Subject: E-Mail Address Change
To: charley@arriscom.net, , jlc@boullion.com,
Please note that my e-mail address will now be eli@computeralt.com
It has been emadden@inacom-vt.com
Yes, this is a mass mailer so I apologize if you received it in error.
Thanks
Eli Madden
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 5 Mar 1998 10:05:22 -0500
From: redline1@juno.com (Kurt m Steiger)
Subject: Exhaust noise
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Hey guys (& GALS) I have a problem w/ my exhaust! When the motor is
cold my exhaust sounds like there isn't a manifold on the engine at all.
I had a pin hole in my other system right where the collector is, this
truck i can't find a hole anywhere. Anyone got an idea what my problem
is. I am considering a complete new system if i have a bad manifold
gasket or pipe. I need to keep the convertor and also want to keep the
cost low. Would love some feed back on what to use ( how much can i do
myself ie. no welding) no problem doing the bolt on thing. AND the
bright side to all this is i get a new exhaust and my wife is none the
wiser on the costs involved.
thanx in advance!
_____________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 Mar 1998 13:35:00 -0800
From: "Smith, Patrick S." Subject: Exhaust noise
To: "'Toy4x4@tlca.org'" One way to hunt down exhaust leaks is to partially block the tail pipe (not
enough to stall it) and then put A FEW DROPS of auto tranny fluid (ATF) in
through the carb. Unlike oil, ATF produces a whiter smoke and makes it
easier to spot leaks. Works best if you have another set of eyes watching
the exhaust from underneath.
----------
From: redline1@juno.com
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Subject: Exhaust noise
Date: Thursday, March 05, 1998 7:05AM
Hey guys (& GALS) I have a problem w/ my exhaust! When the motor is
cold my exhaust sounds like there isn't a manifold on the engine at all.
I had a pin hole in my other system right where the collector is, this
truck i can't find a hole anywhere. Anyone got an idea what my problem
is. I am considering a complete new system if i have a bad manifold
gasket or pipe. I need to keep the convertor and also want to keep the
cost low. Would love some feed back on what to use ( how much can i do
myself ie. no welding) no problem doing the bolt on thing. AND the
bright side to all this is i get a new exhaust and my wife is none the
wiser on the costs involved.
thanx in advance!
_____________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 06 Mar 98 12:16:44 -0600
From: bwiencek@kcnet.com
Subject: Front Drive Shaft
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org>I goofed.....should be:>'80 4.37
OK, does anyone with an '80 have a set of gears that you have taken out in
favor of a lower set ?? I'd like to buy a set of 4.37's if anyone has 'em.
- - Brian
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 06 Mar 1998 06:49:20 -0500
From: Chris Knight Subject: Heater Options
To: "Toy4x4@tlca.org" Does anyone know what kind of heaters were used on VW and Porsche
vehicles? Since these were air cooled I might be able to use the heater
off one of them. If anyone has knowledge of this It would really be
helpfull.
Thanks in advance!!
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 Mar 1998 12:45:22 -0000
From: runars@isbank.is
Subject: Heater Options
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
The myths state that the old VW didn't get warn until after about 1 hour
of driving......;-))
Runar> -----Original Message-----> From: Chris Knight [SMTP:Ckhone@concentric.net]> Sent: Friday, March 06, 1998 11:49 AM> To: Toy4x4@tlca.org> Subject: Heater Options>> Does anyone know what kind of heaters were used on VW and Porsche> vehicles? Since these were air cooled I might be able to use the> heater> off one of them. If anyone has knowledge of this It would really be> helpfull.> Thanks in advance!!
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 Mar 1998 09:19:07 -0500
From: "wolfer1" Subject: Heater Options
To: Chris wrote:
Does anyone know what kind of heaters were used on VW and Porsche
vehicles?
The VW's used 2 different types of heaters. They had heat exchange
box's which were the stock exhaust manifold. These always leaked and
you had the smell of the exhaust in the VW. The other type was a gas
heater. I hope this helps
Domenick
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 06 Mar 1998 08:45:03 -0800
From: Dan Merrick Subject: K&N Filters
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org>------------------------------
I have had a K&N stock replacement filter in my truck for a few years now.
I am happy with the performance, though the performance gains were minimal
on my 22R. It will save you money in the long run, as you can clean,
re-oil, and re-use the filter forever. They also have a million
mile/lifetime warranty. When a K&N filter is very dirty, it still flows
better than say, a Fram filter. The massive K&N filterchargers (like Downey
sells) work well too, especially with a cam and exhaust mods. But those
kits are $$$ and aren't good in deep water, as well as making your truck
louder, since you can hear the air entering the filter because you have
eliminated the air box.>>do the K&N filters make that much of a difference? I am thinking of =>getting one if the response is positive... Thanks!> ------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 Mar 1998 10:03:32 -0600
From: "B. Baldwin, BWSC Marketing" Subject: My passenger door handle won't work
To: "'Toy4x4@tlca.org'" I just got my '88 pickup and the passenger door won't open from the inside.
It works fine from the outside. It feels exactly the same as the driver's
handle (the same tension, etc.), but it doesn't open the door. Taking the
door panel off didn't reveal the problem. Any suggestions?
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 06 Mar 1998 10:44:43 -0500
From: "Eli Madden" Subject: Mystery Emision Fitting
To: toy4x4@tlca.org
Ok, here's a tough one......
I'm reconnecting all the hoses and wires on my '87 22R.
I know where everything goes except for one part.
There is a brass hose connection, about as big around as a
pencil and an inch long. It is just to the right of the carb as
you stand in front of the vehicle and face the engine. I know
it used to have a hose on it because it isn't dirty.
Also, I broke the top connection off the red plastic BVSV (?) valve.
At least I think that's what it is. It has three small hoses that connect to it,
one on top, and two on one side. Anybody know what the full name
of this thing is so I can buy the part somewhere? Do I even need that
top connection?
Thanks in advance! Please e-mail me direct at emadden@inacom-vt.com
as I am in digest mode and I could really use an answer before the weekend.
Thanks!
Eli Madden
Williston, Vermont
'83 SR5 Shortbed 4x4 w/31s and 189,000+ Miles
emadden@inacom-vt.com
New e-mail address will be
eli@computeralt.com starting 3/6/98
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 06 Mar 1998 11:58:22 -0800
From: Scott Wilson Subject: Near Roll over, animated gif
To: Toy 4x4 List I FINALLY got the video that the guy shot of me doing my little stunt on
Truck Hill many moons ago. It's now an animated gif, so you guys can
check it out.
For lack of a better place I put it on top of the 'Hollister - March 1'
trip report.
Scott
- --
_____
/_/_|_\__ Scott Wilson TLCA #5261 CA4WDC #13393
| _ _ : 88 4Runner SR5 V6
*/_\---/_\' Santa Clara, CA
(_) (_) http://www.off-road.com/~swilson
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 Mar 1998 07:43:18 -0700
From: "Jeffery Zicko" Subject: noises
To: toy4x4@tlca.org
hello everybody
I just wanted to thank every one that confirmed it was my
u-joints. I replaced the joint i thought it was coming from and now
my toy is running better then ever. The old joints caps were rusted
and the needle bearings were all messed up. it seems like the truck
has a bit more kick then it did and i don't even have to press on the
gas very hard. So thanks again for the reply's.
jeff zicko
jzicko@alert.alert.com
92' toy 4X4 extnd cab p/u
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 Mar 1998 08:28:55 -0500
From: "John Aird" Subject: Platinum Plugs
To: "Toyota Mail List" Ok here is one for all you Engine techs.
I took my 95 V6 4runner to the dealer for the 30k check up,( I know Dealer
is bad but it is under warranty still) among the list of stuff they checked
was to replace the Plugs. I asked if Platinum plugs could be put in and they
told me No. They said the heat range was not right. Now I know ive heard
some of the Toyota guys out there that are running these platinum plugs,
what's the Deal? Is the dealer full of it??
Thanks,
John Aird
jaird@vwc.edu
Computer Services
Virginia Wesleyan College
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 06 Mar 1998 13:49:09 -0500 (EST)
From: The Extreme Subject: recall
To: 4x4 list There was a question about a recall for a truck in here I read, I had mine
recalled, a 1991 4x4 v-6, it took about 2 days or so and it runs like gold
now, so anyone fitting the recall years of I guess it is 1990 to 1995
with a v-6 engine make an appointment and take it in, it is worth it for
free.......they may try and tell you there are other things wrong with the
truck, but it is also wise to get all the belts replaced and most of the
fluids checked while they have the engine apart anyway.....that is about
it..anyone with questions please email me....
also, what is a good replacement exhaust for a truck, and I want more
horsepower without having to put on headers, any exhausts out there for
me???
Patrick Gers
pgers@orion.ramapo.edu
1991 4x4 V-6
Grizzly Double/Single roll bars
Ram nerf bars
Manik full brush guard
Rancho RS 5000 shocks
Hella 500 driving lights
Bushwacker Flares
31-11.50 Yokohama Super Digger V's
Alloy American Racing Rims 15x8
GTS Headlight/Tailight blackouts
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 06 Mar 1998 10:47:25 -0800
From: "Richard Aguinsky" Subject: Roof Rack
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
greg: i normally drive a toyota camry and have my 4 runner for fun and
mainly for work.
last year i rebuilt the roof on my house and i brought ALL the materials
on my 4 runner little by little.
the 4x8 plywood went on the roof. I have some tulhe bars, i mounted
one on the metal cabin, forward, close to the windshield and the other
on the fiberglass gutter.
I loaded the plywood so the mayority of the weight would be forward
and the rear one to hold in place. no problem.
when i got home, i would climb on the fiberglass roof and put the
plywood on the roof of the house.
the only damage i did, was that the metal roof is higher than the
gutters and i made some dents on the metal because i had the
wrong tuhle racks (from my previous renault fuego).
and if anybody is wondering about the weight: go to home depo and get
15 4x8' 1/2" roofing plywood, the scattered-glued type which is heavier.
and if anybody is wondering for MORE weight, lower the rear seat and
fill it up with shingles, i believe that i fitted 17 bundles of
30 year asphalt shingles. the rear was at the lower limit, the
tires were half way down by the weight.
this truck is tough!!!!!
rich
'87 4 runner
191000 miles young
Greg wrote:
I have an '88 4Runner, and I am thinking of putting a rack on it. I
already have some gutter-mount cross bars for it, and was going to put
the
rack on top of the bars. My question is, how strong are the gutter
rails
on the fiberglass top? Will I break them by putting some gear and a
bike
on top? What have you other 1st gen. 'Runner guys done? I'm not in
favor
of mounting a rack through the top with bolts.
Thanks,
- -Greg
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 05 Mar 1998 08:16:22 -0500
From: Bob Bascom Subject: Seat belt locking up
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Afonso, Carlos M wrote:>> I'm having a problem with my seat belt locking up on me at any time, and> worse is that when I let it in to get it to unlock it won't release, so I> have to undo the belt and let it all back in and then try again. It's> becoming a big pain to have to take my belt off and on over and over before> it finally releases, but it isn't long before it locks up again. Did I> mention that this all happens as I'm just driving along and not braking. If> any one can help, please do, I hate driving without a seat belt.>> --Carlos
Take apart the rathet part at the bottom and see if there is anything
stuck in it. My belt used to do that till I found out there was a marble
lodeged in the ratchet part.
Ryan
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 Mar 1998 11:22:45 -0600
From: "Tong, Donald L" Subject: Sticking Windows
To: "'bmiranda@loudoun.com'" ,
Bill,
I read your post in the Toy 4x4 Digest. Sorry, but I don't have a
definitive answer. I can, however, commiserate with you. I've been
having the same problem with my '91 4R since September. I thought it
was a cold weather only problem, but when I started to take things apart
on a warm day, it still happened intermittently. I sure hope I'm right
'cause I'm going to Mammoth next week and would hate to get caught with
a rear window that won't come up.
First, I assume you're having the problem regardless of whether you use
the key switch or the switch on the center console. If that's not the
case, you might want to check the switches first.
In my case, I know it's not the switches because it happens with both.
I also know it's not the motor because I disconnected the motor and
verified that on occasion, power was not being supplied by the relay.
(On a '91, the relay is located behind the left-side panel, aft of the
storage compartment. I suspect a '90 would be identical.) The relay
unit is actually about six relays, and the dealer charges $300 for a new
unit.
If you play with it and listen carefully, when you activate the window
to go one direction, you'll hear two clicks from the relays. When going
the other direction, you'll only hear one. (I think it's one click
going up and two coming down, but I could have it backwards) This is
normal, because the "default" when power is applied to the window is to
raise(?) the window. When lowering the window, the second click is a
second relay being activated to reverse the polarity of the power going
to the motor.
Since that second relay is about the only thing I see different about
whether the window is going up or down, I think the problem is
oxidation on the contacts of that second relay. I really have nothing
better to explain it.
I've got the Toyota manual and therefore have the wiring diagrams and
diagnostic procedure. What I really don't like is that (a) the
diagnostic procedure for the relay is "check the rest of the wiring, and
if it's okay, then the problem is the relay", and (b) the relay is shown
in the schematic as a black box. However, knowing what's supposed to
happen when, I figure that as a last resort I can build and wire in my
own relay box.
If you have need of the schematics and diagnostic procedures, send me a
fax number.
Donald Tong
donald.tong@unisys.com
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 06 Mar 1998 10:26:58 -0600
From: Jack Alford Subject: stuff I see for sale
To: I don't know anyone selling these parts or anything about them ... blah ...
blah
8" 3rd Member 4:10 gears($75)
http://www.classified2000.com/cgi-cls/ad.exe?P12+C239+A0+R11070+Q54495904
Misc. Engine parts (good prices $10-100):
http://www.classified2000.com/cgi-cls/ad.exe?P12+C239+A0+R9176+Q54495904
81 Tranny & Transfer case ($150)
http://www.classified2000.com/cgi-cls/ad.exe?P12+C239+A0+R12583+Q54495904
89 rear axle (description leads me to believe it's complete hub to hub for
$100)
http://www.classified2000.com/cgi-cls/ad.exe?P12+C239+A0+R9067+Q54495904
- jack
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 Mar 1998 08:47:03 -0500
From: Randall_Gary@tmac.com
Subject: Subject: Gasoline.....THE FINAL WORD(S)
To: Toyota Users Group >>if oxygenation has the negative effect on mileage that I have read about.
YES!
Gary Randall -- Brunswick, Maine
'85 2200 RE
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 Mar 1998 09:15:34 -0500 (EST)
From: "Dr. Karl Bellve" Subject: TJM Bumpers
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
I want to take advantage of the 15% off offer at Performance Products and
get a TJM front bumper. I am deciding between the steel TJM 13 ($689) or
the aluminum TJM 13 ($1159) or 15 ($1059). My wife doesn't like the steel
look and I don't like the way steel rusts in the northeast (US) at the
first drop of salt on the road. I prefer the look of the 15 versus the 13.
My wife likes the 13. My wallet likes the steel 13 ;-). However, the
aluminum bumpers are about $500 more but are they worth it? Does anyone
have one? Are people happy with the strength and durability of the steel
ones (including its ability to not rust)?
Any advice would be appreciated. The discount ends March 15. Quoted prices
do not include the 15% off.
Cheers,
Karl Bellve, Ph.D.
Biomedical Imaging Group
University of Massachusetts
WWW : http://molmed.ummed.edu/~kdb/
Email: kdb@molmed.ummed.edu
Phone: (508) 856-3785
Fax : (508) 856-1840
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 Mar 1998 11:58:55 EST
From: DRM033 Subject: TJM Bumpers
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
The Aluminum ones are for show (gotta have an extra brace just to support the
winch). If yuo plan to use it, get the steel. I have the T17 steel with
optional loop (loop attaches where the lights are in the pictires). I love
mine. A friend has the T13 steel on his Ford Ranger & it looks pretty good.
I like the flat front of mine cause when I am winching I can pull up to a tree
& use it as a brace.
- ---------------------------------------------------------------------
David Moore DRM033@aol.com
90 Toyota Truck - 4" ProComp, 33" Swampers,
4.88's, rear ARB, TJM bumper & Ramsey #8000
TLCA #5662
Traxx In Motion 4 Wheel Drive Club
www.netmatter.com/traxx
- ---------------------------------------------------------------------
In a message dated 98-03-06 09:21:59 EST, you write:> I want to take advantage of the 15% off offer at Performance Products and> get a TJM front bumper. I am deciding between the steel TJM 13 ($689) or> the aluminum TJM 13 ($1159) or 15 ($1059). My wife doesn't like the steel> look and I don't like the way steel rusts in the northeast (US) at the> first drop of salt on the road. I prefer the look of the 15 versus the 13.> My wife likes the 13. My wallet likes the steel 13 ;-). However, the> aluminum bumpers are about $500 more but are they worth it? Does anyone> have one? Are people happy with the strength and durability of the steel> ones (including its ability to not rust)?> ------------------------------
Date: Mon, 16 Feb 1998 15:20:25 -0500
From: redline1@juno.com (Kurt m Steiger)
Subject: Toy4x4 Digest V1 #745
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
OK OK....
Enough on the gas/water thing i run my truck till the trip odometer reads
300miles which almost always equates to 15 gallons, way past the 1/4 tank
thing. I never have a problem of any sort. Also the higher the octane
the lower the combustion rate. when the YOYO pings you are preigniting
the gas so try a higher octane. there is no cure for the
humidity/condensation thing, you are gonna have water everywhere but
outerspace.(& they think they found water on the moon now!) Back in high
school i worked in a full service station, anyway when the tanks get low
or empty there is still several hundred gallons in the ground so you are
not likely to get water in your tank.
So i rambled enough.
Kurt Steiger
92 extra 4x4
_____________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 06 Mar 1998 12:31:15 -0800
From: David Gibbs Subject: Toy4x4 Digest V1 #746 Bad vibes
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Bad vibes- someone may have already mentioned this but here it is. Try
wiggling your drive shafts. If they wiggle narrow it down to t-case
output, slipyoke, or rear end. Check all 4 rims for mud packed in.
Have you done anything to the clutch or flywheel lately?
David Gibbs
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 Mar 1998 07:21:17 -0800
From: Brian Gallus Subject: Which Lift???
To: "'toy4x4@tlca.org'" Jacques Wrote:> I am looking into getting a suspension lift for my '94 std cab 4x4...> You can reply to me personally so the list doesn't get all tied up. I> appreciate all suggestions .> Jon Responded:
Be warned, these lifts arguably weaken the suspension and commonly
develop alignment problems. They are also costly and involved. They are
definately not a 2-3 bannana job.
Sorry Jon, but I'd have to disagree!!! I won't argue that these kits do
put some more stress on *certain* components, but I don't think that
it's necessarily safe to say that they "weaken the suspension". Two
reasons:
The stock IFS Toy doesn't have a cross-member for the rear a-arm towers.
This is a design flaw and often results in spreading of these mounts.
Believe me, I've been there and they are a pain to straighten. Both
Rancho and Pro-Comp come with rear cross-members that arguably
"strengthen" the frame.
Secondly, some of these kits, at least the Rancho for sure, improve on
the stock wheel geometry. I can't speak in mechanics talk here, but
I'll tell you that my 4Runner handles, drives, rides much better with
the kit than w/o. Aligments have NEVER been a problem (with the
exception of the first alignment on my 86 - bent frame and poor
alignment shop. Fixed by another shop.) nor has steering or any other
component.
As for installation difficulty, I am by no means a mechanic. I
installed the Rancho kit with help from my father (who is no mechanic
either - believe me... ) in four - five days taking our time (ie - one
weekend and a couple of hours a night after work). During that time I
also installed new poly bushings in the lower control arms, new CV
boots, inner tri-pod rebuild kit, extended breathers, new brakes,
rotors, hubs, painted EVERYTHING (including the frame), low profile
upper snubbers, etc. Like I said, I'm NO mechanic, but I didn't find
anything particularily difficult about the kit. The instructions are
decent and the most difficult aspect of installing the kit was getting
the rusty bolts off the old components!!! Other than drilling 5-6
holes, everything is completely bolt on and relatively easy to do.
Now, I'm not saying that anyone should go out and install a kit on their
vehicle if they have absolutely no mechanical skills, but I don't think
that we should scare people into thinking that it's harder than it
really is. If you take your time, pay attention to details and double
check your work (and read the manual FIRST), I see no reason why this
has to be a difficult job.
just my opinion....
bkg
- ---------------------------------------------------------------------
Brian Gallus 87 4Runner SR5
BrianGallus@DynaMark.com 33's, 4.88's, TrueTrac
Vadnais Heights, MN 3" Rancho, 2" body
Minnesota Toyx4's #95 / MN4WDA / TLCA #5581
http://www.off-road.com/~MNTOYX4
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 Mar 1998 13:41:21 -0700 (PDT)
From: Ken Emanuel Subject: Which Lift???
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
On Fri, 6 Mar 1998, Brian Gallus wrote:> The stock IFS Toy doesn't have a cross-member for the rear a-arm towers.> This is a design flaw and often results in spreading of these mounts.
I don't necessarily agree that this is a design flaw. I've always thought
that I would be more likely TO bend the A-arm mounts in if the rear
cross member catches on something. I guess it depends on what you're
doing with your truck. If you run dunes and jump all of the time, a
rear cross-member might be a good idea, but I certainly wouldn't call
not having one a "design flaw."
*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*
Ken Emanuel Emanuel@csus.edu
'87 Xtra Cab SR5 (22R-E)
http://webpages.csus.edu/~sac75830/toystuff.htm
*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 Mar 1998 16:14:33 -0600 (CST)
From: gfrancis@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (Greg S. Francis)
Subject: Which Lift???
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org>I don't necessarily agree that this is a design flaw. I've always thought>that I would be more likely TO bend the A-arm mounts in if the rear>cross member catches on something. I guess it depends on what you're>doing with your truck. If you run dunes and jump all of the time, a>rear cross-member might be a good idea, but I certainly wouldn't call>not having one a "design flaw."> I am running the 3" Rancho IFS lift on my '88. I find it hard to believe
that catching the rear crossmember on any thing at a reasonable off-road
speed would bend the a-arm pivots, that thing is sturdy. What I would call
a design flaw is that with the Rancho kit, the bottom of the front diff
hangs about 1/8 inch below the front and rear crossmembers! I had a
special skid plate welded up that runs under the crossmembers and protects
the diff.
- -Greg
Greg S. Francis
University of Texas @ Austin
School of Architecture
gfrancis@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu
TLCA Member #5558
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 Mar 1998 10:03:07 -0600
From: john_j_harville@amoco.com
Subject: WHO'S GOT GAS?
To: Toy4X4@tlca.org
Water will indeed lay on the bottom of your gas tank. Thanks, Ed Ruf
for clearing this up. Thought this was a rudimentary fact that
everyone knew. If it were the other way around, that Valdez' oil spill
may have gone unnoticed for a while, eh? Anywho......you may rebut all
you want about it. The fact remains that you should buy your gas from
a reputable station (did someone say Amoco?) who maintains there
systems(tanks, filters, water separators, etc) to avoid large doses of
foreign matter(particulate, water, etc.) into your tank. Even if you
get some......which is going to happen.....it's not the end of the
world.... unless somehow you get so much water that the LEL(lower
explosive limit) is such that when the fuel/air mixture is sprayed
into your combustion chamber it will not ignite. This is not going to
happen with a few drops here or there. You may get a hesitation or a
miss that will possibly go unnoticed, but no "biggie".
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 06 Mar 1998 08:01:58 -0800
From: Barney McNamara Subject: Why bother with high octane gas?
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Barney missed again:>>I believe water floats on top of gas, and this wives tale is related>>not to crud at the bottom, but water on the top of a tank of gas.
Ed responded:>It's the other way around. Many hyrocarbons are liter than water.>Remember an oil slick floats on top of water.
Well, I'm wrong about the water on top of the gas, but I'll stick
to my story about some impurities floating on the gas and getting
sucked into the engine when the tank goes low. I don't consider it
a problem to run my gas tank low, but I do try to minimize the
number of gas stations I visit to reduce the chance of running into
a station with a leaky tank, and contaminated gas.
I also use the lowest octane I can buy that does not ping. I run 87
in most of my cars, but one needs 89 to avoid pinging while climbing
steep hills. My truck lumbers along just fine on 87.
______________________________________________________________
Barney McNamara JENNY - 83 Toyota Short Bed
( barney@flowpoint.com ) stock 22R motor ; 3" body lift
Santa Cruz, Ca. 8" alloy rims; 31" BFG A/Ts
homepage: http://www.scruz.net/~barneym/barnhome.htm
______________________________________________________________
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 Mar 1998 16:36:21 EST
From: DRM033 Subject: Years & Gears
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
With all this talk about gears, I was wondering if the package had anything to
do with gear ratio's. I have an 81 SR5 with all the best (22R & 5 speed) &
those cool TRD colors. I thought maybe that this package would have lower
gears than what was listed (3.90's right?)
I guess I will have to get dirty & just find out for myself.
- ---------------------------------------------------------------------
David Moore DRM033@aol.com
90 Toyota Truck - 4" ProComp, 33" Swampers,
4.88's, rear ARB, TJM bumper & Ramsey #8000
TLCA #5662
Traxx In Motion 4 Wheel Drive Club
www.netmatter.com/traxx
- ---------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 Mar 1998 11:52:37 -1000 (HST)
From: Eric Johnson Subject: Years & Gears
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org> With all this talk about gears, I was wondering if the package had anything to> do with gear ratio's. I have an 81 SR5 with all the best (22R & 5 speed) &> those cool TRD colors. I thought maybe that this package would have lower> gears than what was listed (3.90's right?)>> I guess I will have to get dirty & just find out for myself.
...or you could read the axle code.... :)
------------------------------
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