Toy4x4 Digest          Wed,  4 Mar 98 00:30:02 (HST)  Volume 1 : Issue 743
 Today's Topics:
 22RE Gas Mpg
 22R Timing (2 msgs)
 85 Toy dsl trbo>Could Could anybody explain th (2 msgs)
 ADMIN
 ADMIN gone too far? was Re: ADMIN: Re: I  Stopped by Pismo today on my (5 msgs)
 bio
 Breaking In a Rebuilt Engine (2 msgs)
 Buggy Springs
 Clear Creek (CA.) update.
 confused
 dare... was re: bio
 Decal Removal (2 msgs)
 dirty window tracks
 Gas
 gas tank question (2 msgs)
 Gear and spares
 Guages
 Headlight covers on '93 P/U (2 msgs)
 Headliner
 High power alternator
 hubs and 4wd
 INFO ON TEXAS TRIPS
 K&N Dropin Filter (2 msgs)
 lift
 Moving spring hangers (3 msgs)
 nerf bars
 Roof Rack (3 msgs)
 Roof Strength
 Shock mounting (2 msgs)
 Tach correction (3 msgs)
 Taco (skid) crunch plates (2 msgs)
 thinking of selling
 Toyota_nut
 Tranny / Xfer Case - what fits what?
 two things from Toy4x4 Digest V1 #742
 Why bother with high octane gas? (4 msgs)
 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
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 ----------------------------------------------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 3 Mar 1998 15:55:36 -0800
 From: kkuo@wimsey.com (Kenneth Kuo)
 Subject: 22RE Gas Mpg
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org
 I realized that in my previous message I said I get "23-36" mpg in my '89
 4Runner. Sorry for the typo ..... better make that 23-26 mpg combined
 city/hwy driving. In between oil changes I put in a bottle of STP Oil
 Treatment (I do this for both our cars) and the stuff really does enhance
 fuel economy.
 Kenneth Kuo (aka "little ol' lady from Pasadena")
 Vancouver, B.C., '89 4Runner, 22RE/5spd
 kkuo@gvrd.bc.ca
 ===============================================>Date: Fri, 27 Feb 1998 12:54:07 -0800>From: kkuo@wimsey.com (Kenneth Kuo)>Subject: 22RE GAS MPG>To: toy4x4@tlca.org>>"My '89 4Runnner (22RE, 5spd) with 30x9.5" on alloys gets between 23-36
 mpg.>But to get this I pretty much have to drive like that "little old lady
 from>Pasadena".>Kenneth Kuo>kkuo@gvrd.bc.ca>Vancouver, B.C.
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 03 Mar 1998 17:40:37 -0800
 From: Jim Brink  Subject: 22R Timing
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Eli Madden wrote:>> I'm reasembling my '87 22R after doing a mild rebuild. I'm> a little mystified by the whole timing setup. I installed my> timing chain with the crankshaft ridge sticking straight up,> the timing mark on the crankshaft gear pointing straight down,> and the camshaft gear timing mark pointing straight up. The> marked links of the chain are in their proper places. I have since> manually turned the engine ove a little, but can bring it back to> this position fairly easily.>> Is this the position that I want the camshaft and crankshaft to be> in when I install the distributor? All the descriptions I've read assume> that things aren't fully disassembled.>> Is Top Dead Center (TDC) when the camshaft timing mark is pointed> straight up?
 Yes, when the cam marks are in the up position and the crank marks are
 down, this is TDC. To be sure, wiggle the rocker arms for the #1
 cylinder. They should be loose.>> Would installing the crankshaft pulley make things easier? It sounds> like there is a timing mark on it.
 If it makes it easier for you, sure. The mark on the pulley should be on
 the 0 deg. mark on the timing cover.
 To install the distributor, point the rotor to the 12 o'clock position.
 When the dist. is installed all of the way, it should rotate ccw to the
 #1 firing postion. This should get you close enough to get the motor
 started so you can make the fine, running adjustments.
 - --
 Jim Brink, Toyota/ASE Certified Technician	1986 Toyota Std. Bed 4WD
 Manhattan Beach, CA				32x11.50/15 BFG M/Ts
 ToyTech@Off-Road.com
 ************************************************************************
 TLCA - Friends of the Mojave Road (FOMR) - CA4WDC
 Visit http://www.off-road.com Putting Off-Road, Online!
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 03 Mar 1998 22:38:56 -0500
 From: Clif Moyers  Subject: 22R Timing
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org
 Eli,
 You want to insert the distributor, as shown in the manual, after rotating
 the crank to position No. 1 cylinder top dead center on its compression
 stroke.  This is described in the manual on page IG-10.  The manual talks
 about the No. 1 rocker arms being loose, indicating both valves are closed,
 and thus the compression stroke.  Since I already had the valve cover on at
 this point, I removed the No. 1 and No. 4 spark plugs and held a finger
 over each spark plug opening while my partner turned the crank through top
 dead center (say, 45 degrees before to 15 degrees past TDC).  Remember, 1
 and 4 are up at the same time, but one will be doing its exhaust stroke
 while the other is doing its compression stroke.  So, if you feel pressure
 from the No. 1 spark plug hole, you are on its compression stroke.  If not,
 rotate the crank one turn and see if No. 1 then "blows".  Once No. 1
 compression stroke has been identified, realign the crank to 0 degrees and
 insert the distributor with the rotor pointing at about 10 o'clock as shown
 in the manual.
 Hope this helps!
 Clif
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 3 Mar 1998 10:54:56 PST
 From: "Boyd,Tom"  Subject: 85 Toy dsl trbo
 To: Toy List  Saw this ad in the San Jose Mercury news today (3/3/98) '85 Toy dsl
 trbo eng/trns/etc REBUILT $1-499 408- 395-1218.  San Jose is south of
 San Francisco.
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 3 Mar 1998 18:11:23 -0500
 From: Agustinus Gunawan  Subject:>Could Could anybody explain th
 To: "'Toy4x4@tlca.org'"  My truck came with the original voltmeter but the scale is so rough that I
 could not see the difference. Mine still about 1/3 above the half mark (2/3
 from total scale) when it happened. After I install the new alternator it
 only rise a bit.
 Well maybe my Champion 4X4 batteries still have enough juice for my system.
 After I install my new alternator I still could start my truck easily, no
 jumps starting necessary. I run my truck about 30 minutes with headlights
 on.
 - -----Original Message-----
 From:	Dr. Karl Bellve [SMTP:kdb@molmed.ummed.edu]
 Sure, measure the voltages when the engine is running. A fully charge
 battery is around 12.6 volts. You should be seeing 14-15 volts when the
 engine is running if the alternator is working. I am not sure how much
 current it is putting out. You could take it out and take it to an auto
 store which usually will test alternators and batteries for free
 ^@
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 03 Mar 1998 21:02:37 -0600
 From: breeze@cysource.com (Jeffrey Delzer)
 Subject:>Could Could anybody explain th
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Agustinus Gunawan wrote:>> My truck came with the original voltmeter but the scale is so rough that I> could not see the difference. Mine still about 1/3 above the half mark (2/3> from total scale) when it happened. After I install the new alternator it> only rise a bit.
 The standard dash voltmeter is almost worthless for checking your
 alternator output until it gets way out of whack. You should use a
 high(er) quality voltmeter, if possible. I like analog voltmeters better
 in this situation because you can more easily see the variations in
 voltage, as compared to digital meters that sometimes can't decide where
 to settle their display. :)  Of course, in other situations, digital is
 the way to go.
 Jeff Delzer
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 03 Mar 1998 14:35:56 -0800
 From: Scott Wilson  Subject: ADMIN
 To: Toy4x4 List  Everybody is up in arms because I sent a message that said "no flaming"
 ?!!    You all are reading WAY too far into this.  Yes, I sent the
 message as a result of the mild flame Jeffery posted towards Chris.
 No, the post was not directed JUST towards Jeffery, and NO he didn't get
 unsubscribed.
 I've said nothing about Jeffery's comments toward Chris' post.   I've
 also said nothing about Chris' post or actions.
 Get over it.
 Scott
 List Admin
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 03 Mar 1998 10:30:19 -0800
 From: Scott Wilson  Subject: ADMIN gone too far? was Re: ADMIN: Re: I  Stopped by Pismo today on my
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 wolfer1 wrote:>> First off I agree with Karl. You talk about Jeffrey's email and> flaming but not long ago there was a email in which a person got very> carried away and nothing was said. I'm talking about the thread> dealing with Cat Converters. Why was nothing said about this post? He> talks about people being "poster children for birth control and> opinions are like ***-hole, everybody has one and they're all full of> sh**!!!!!!"  You must also understand this is my opinion. You must> understand people are entitled to their opinion's and not everyone is> going to agree with them. I don't understand why certain post have> received responses about the rules (with minor infractions) and others> like I mentioned earlier (major infractions) nothing is said. Could> you please clarify for me?
 It's simple.  I am not a computer.  I could not possibly catch every
 little thing that gets posted (nor would I want to!!)
 I receive 2-3 times the amount of list-related mail as a realtime
 subscriber does each day.  Needless to say...it sucks.   Keeping this
 list up takes TOO much time.  I could not possibly read every post that
 comes through in a 'normal week', and if something in my life (work,
 studies, etc) requires more attention, I read even less posts that week.
 Also, do not assume that I did not talk directly to people you see
 sending in inappropriate posts.  I try to post as few as possible ADMIN
 messages because I HATE all the FLACK I get from them.
 Guys...take a step back.  Remember...I'm not a computer.   Let me do my
 job without jumping all over me.
 I DID NOT overreact.  I did not unsubscribe anyone.  I posted to the
 list and clarified the rules for everyone...DEAL WITH IT.
 Scott
 List Admin
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 03 Mar 1998 10:24:08 -0800
 From: Scott Wilson  Subject: ADMIN gone too far? was Re: ADMIN: Re: I  Stopped by Pismo today on my
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Dr. Karl Bellve wrote:> First, I have read Jeffrey's email and I didn't think it was 'flaming'. He> was expressing his own opinion and really didn't get personal except for> one line in the entire post. Which, I certainly don't think he should be> reprimanded for, atleast in this manner (removal from the list).
 You define flaming as "when it gets personal."  (so do I)  When Jeffery
 said 'Now this is directed towards you (Chris)...'  and proceeded to
 tell him he was to blame for the creek crossing being closed, and that
 he should grow up...didn't he get personal?
 Also, Jeffery HAS NOT been removed from the list.  The "clarification of
 the rules" that I sent in, was no more than a reminder to everybody (not
 just Jeffery) that I won't tolerate flames here.   As I've said MANY
 times already, I'm not trying to be a tyrant here...  All I did was sent
 out a clarification (a reminder if you will)..DEAL WITH IT.  Its not
 cause for discussion.> Secondly, the above rule is way too broad. You have not defined 'flaming'> in any manner. You say one cannot 'flame' someone based on their advice,> observations, etc. Most of what goes on this list is communication about> observations and advice. But you do not define what communication is> considered 'flaming'. So, if I disagree with someone, and I reply, am I> flaming? If an email implied that someone ignored the "Tread Lightly"> philosophy, should I keep quiet? Jeffrey didn't keep quiet when someone> ignored the rules and crossed the stream.
 Now you're just being silly.  I'm not going to waste my time my writting
 out a definition for flaming.  You said yourself, it is "when it gets
 personal."   That a good enough definition for me.
 I've never said you can't disagree with someone on the list.  I've never
 said you can't point out where someone may have made a mistake.   If you
 choose to do this in a way that is degrading to, or is attacking the
 individual, that is a flame, and I won't put up with it on this list.
 This list will remain a place that people can speak their opinions
 without fear of public flaming.> On the other hand, If I said that the list admin could approach> these matters better, and here's how, I would not consider this flaming.
 If you're hinting that I did not handle the situation appropriately, I'd
 like to know what you find so 'wrong' with making sure all the list
 members know flames are not acceptable, and with 'warning' Jeffery that
 his post was inappropriate.
 Boy you guys make this job so fun...
 Scott
 List Admin
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 3 Mar 1998 17:54:10 -0800
 From: "Todd and Terry Steele"  Subject: ADMIN gone too far? was Re: ADMIN: Re: I  Stopped by Pismo today on my
 To:  The bottom line is that the person who stopped by Pismo did violate the
 TREAD lightly creed.  It is a good way to lose more land for us to enjoy our
 hobby.  What is it, 12 miles of CA's 1200 mile coastline is available for
 travel by motor vehicle.  Let's follow the rules to keep it.  We owe that to
 ourselves, fellow wheelers and our children.
 My $.02
 Todd
 His:  87 Toyota 4X4, Marlin Tcase #180, EZ Lockers F/R, Warn MX8000, Custom
 rear bumper and nerfs, Ramsey F bumper, Trailmaster/Superlift 4", 33-9.5 BFG
 MT's.  Custom Body by Sierra Nevada.
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 03 Mar 1998 19:13:02 -0800
 From: chris geiger  Subject: ADMIN gone too far? was Re: ADMIN: Re: I  Stopped by Pismo today on my
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org> What is it, 12 miles of CA's 1200 mile coastline is available for> travel by motor vehicle.  Let's follow the rules to keep it.> We owe that to ourselves, fellow wheelers and our children.
 What is happining here is the rangers are now closing the park every
 time there is a chance someone might get stuck. This is wrong and
 I will fight it. I allmost whent through the creek again after the
 ranger came (I know a back way out of pismo that the rangers trucks
 could not follow) Rember the Boston tea party?
 The Government does not have the right
 to protect me from myself. They are there to protect me from others
 ONLY! That means speeding, drunk drivers, ect. I have no problem
 when it comes to the saftey of others but this new concept of
 "if we cant get to where you are going then you can't go" is really
 bad. I was not like this a few years ago. I will not be taken care
 of by anyone! Can you imagin many years ago the cops saying hey you
 can't go out west cause you all might get hurt and we could not get
 there to help you. Many people did die moving out west. This freedom
 will not be taken away.
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 04 Mar 1998 02:23:07 -0600
 From: breeze@cysource.com (Jeffrey Delzer)
 Subject: ADMIN gone too far? was Re: ADMIN: Re: I  Stopped by Pismo today on my
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 chris geiger wrote:>> What is happining here is the rangers are now closing the park every> time there is a chance someone might get stuck. This is wrong and> I will fight it. I allmost whent through the creek again after the> ranger came (I know a back way out of pismo that the rangers trucks> could not follow)
 Chris, in my humble and honest opinion, assuming I'm still allowed to
 present it, you're going about this all wrong. The way I see it, you
 want a place to play while the Rangers are given the job of ensuring
 that our generation isn't the LAST one to play there. (Reasons given
 might include conservation, safety, whatever.) By sidestepping the rules
 and directions they give you, I think you're hurting your case far more
 than helping it. There are ways to fight laws and policies that you
 don't agree with. Flagrant violations won't do it for you, and they
 won't do it for the rest of us, either.> Rember the Boston tea party?
 Yes, it had to do with "taxation without representation." We all have
 some degree of representation these days, so I don't think it makes a
 good cause this time around. By the way, that 'representation' is
 sometimes a good place to start when it's time to make changes to
 existing laws and policies.> The Government does not have the right> to protect me from myself. They are there to protect me from others> ONLY! I will not be taken care of by anyone!  This freedom> will not be taken away.
 I think we all need to stand back, take a breath, and realize none of us
 are in this world alone. Sure, we all want our beloved freedom, but that
 freedom comes at a price, and it comes with responsibilities too
 numerous to list here. One of those responsibilities, however, is to use
 the resources we have in a responsible way so that others can enjoy them
 after we've moved on. (This is the basis of the Tread Lightly program, I
 believe.)
 In my humble and honest opinion, the quickest way to prove you wrong is
 to let you continue to do what you're already doing. It shouldn't be
 long before we're all restricted to paved roads only. So take plenty of
 pictures while you're out there doing your thing. Those pictures might
 be all our children ever get to see.
 There's nothing in this post that's intended as a cheap shot or a flame,
 so please don't take it that way. Thanks for voicing your opinion, and
 for letting me voice mine.
 Jeff Delzer
 P.S. To all of you who voiced your opinions in support of mine, both
 publicly and privately, I thank you very much! I sincerely appreciate
 it.
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 03 Mar 1998 14:30:50 -0800
 From: konopski@dowco.com
 Subject: bio
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org
 My name is Carl Konopski and I live in Agassiz,B.C. Canada.E-Mail me at
 konopski@dowco.com.I have a 1996 Tacoma Xtra-cab 4x4
 with;V-6,5speed.I am not presently a TLCA member.I am 42 years young as
 of today and am happily married.I am employed as a Building Service
 Worker.My hobbies include;4 wheeling,hunting,camping,motorcycles,working
 out,etc.I found out about the list by surfing 4x4 links.My truck
 currently has 31x10.5 Goodyear Wranglers on 15x7 Toyota aluminum mags.I
 am seriously considering installing a lift kit.First choice,Trailmaster
 6"kit.Second choice,ProComp 4"kit.For tires maybe,32x10.5 or 11,or
 33x10.5 or 11 all terrains.BFG's ? I would really appreciate any
 advice,feedback,experiences-good and bad concerning these lift kits and
 tire choices.Yours truly Carl Konopski
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 03 Mar 1998 14:50:10 -0800
 From: Jerald Josephs  Subject: Breaking In a Rebuilt Engine
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Smith, Patrick S. wrote:> Further to Norman's good advice:> 1.  The idea of keeping the rev's up is to ensure the engine is always>> making a good oil pressure, so avoid extensive idling.> Actually, the reason to keep the RPM's high is to account for
 whateverslack may exist between the crankshaft, rods, and pistons.  The
 faster
 you go, the farther up the cylinder the piston travels.  We are talking
 micrometers here, but the idea is for the rings to work the cylinder
 for the entire length of the longest possible stroke.
 - --
 Jerald Josephs   Nokia - IP Routing
 jerald.josephs@iprg.nokia.com 232 Java Drive, Sunnyvale, CA 94089
 http://www.ipsilon.com  Phone:  (408) 990-2000 ext 2175
 Fax:  (408) 743-5679
 ------------------------------
 Date: 03 Mar 98 15:05:11 PST
 From: Norman.Goetz@directory.reed.edu (Norman Goetz)
 Subject: Breaking In a Rebuilt Engine
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 - --- You wrote:
 Smith, Patrick S. wrote:> Further to Norman's good advice:> 1.  The idea of keeping the rev's up is to ensure the engine is always> making a good oil pressure, so avoid extensive idling.
 Actually, the reason to keep the RPM's high is to account for
 whateverslack may exist between the crankshaft, rods, and pistons.  The
 faster
 you go, the farther up the cylinder the piston travels.  We are talking
 micrometers here, but the idea is for the rings to work the cylinder
 for the entire length of the longest possible stroke.
 - --- end of quote ---
 Never heard it explained that way before, but it makes good sense.  Anyone
 who has rebuilt an engine knows that the greatest wear to the bore occurs
 at the top ring, which produces a vertically rounded depression.  Breaking
 in at higher RPM would postpone the formation of that groove which would
 eventually start robbing compression from the cylinders.
 Norman
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 03 Mar 1998 15:18:30 -0500
 From: Sheldon Gardner  Subject: Buggy Springs
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org> Date: Mon, 2 Mar 1998 19:00:24 -0800> From: Sharon Denton > Subject: buggy spring for yotas> To: "'toy4x4@tlca.org'" >> I have seen many jeeps in magazines that have the extra spring between the frame and the shackle (buggy spring).  I was wondering if anyone has done this or seen it done to a yota p/u so I can get some ideas.>> Rick Denton "Yota"> doradotv@innercite.com>> -
 Plan on doing it weekend after next, along with the mazda or maybe chevy rear spring swap, stay tuned.
 Sheldon
 atzmkt@sunline.net
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 3 Mar 1998 11:36:52 -0800
 From: "Roger Brown P.E."  Subject: Clear Creek (CA.) update.
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 I just called the BLM Clear Creek hotline and I've updated the information on
 my web page to reflect the current status.
 In a nutshell:
 This winter's storms have taken their toll on this OHV area. Before heading out
 to Clear Creek, it is a good idea to check the status of Hwy. 25 on the
 Cal-Trans web page and to call the BLM Clear Creek hotline at +1.408.630.5060.
 Latest report has it that the park was partially re-opened on 02/27/98.
 Apparently, there is access from the south via Coalinga and the east from King
 City. The north access via Hwy. 25 is still washed out about 5 mi. south of
 Hollister. Inside the area, the main county road is washed out about 10.5 miles
 east of the entrance, so access to the Idria site is not possible. The ridge
 roads are open, but the BLM is advising against 4WD travel out of the lower
 canyon. They are taking volunteers for work parties, you can call
 +1.408.630.5020 to sign up.
 http://reality.sgi.com/rogerb/4x4/ClearCreek/index.html
 - --
 Roger Brown, P.E.        mailto:rogerb@sgi.com
 +1.650.933.1898 (vmail)  +1.650.932.1898 (fax)
 http://reality.sgi.com/rogerb/
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 03 Mar 1998 20:15:22 -0700
 From: Tony Bartlett  Subject: confused
 To: Toy4x4  Want to talk confusing.
 OK, I hear that when the front torque rod is removed you will dive right
 (i think) when you brake hard.
 Well, when I put on my alcans with axle moved forward I had no front
 drive shaft in.  While driving I would have bad diving right problems
 when braking. (this is with no torque rod)
 Well, after I installed my front driveshaft I no longer have this
 problem, still with no torque rod.
 Tony
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 3 Mar 1998 11:41:52 -8 GMT
 From: "Leo G. Divinagracia III"  Subject: dare... was re: bio
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org>From: "james stevenson" >Excuse my ignorance, but what is a DARE coordinator ?
 around california, there's a police program, drug abuse rehabilition
 education (DARE) created for young kids.  police agencies would dress up
 vehicles to attract the kids and then 'preach' to them the bad side of doing
 drugs.  anyway, beverly hills (calif) was the first agency to get a land
 rover discovery and of course, it was immediately stamped with DARE logos
 everywhere...
 funny thing: check out chris g.'s web page when we went to hollister hills.
 he has a photo of a nissan pathfinder that almost rolled.  it had a bumper
 sticker with a DARE logo, but the D stood for donuts... for cops.
 - -----------------------
 Leo G. Divinagracia III
 ldivinag@csuhayward.edu
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 03 Mar 1998 10:32:54 PST
 From: "Mitch Housh"  Subject: Decal Removal
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 "T. Christopher Dunn"  Wrote:
 Subject: Removing body decals
 What is the best way to remove all the stickers from my truck including
 the
 glue, without harming the paint?
 Chris
 Chris,
 I have a 1984 Toyota SR5 X-Cab 4X4 and I removed my decals with just a
 1500 watt hair dryer and my fingernails. And by the way my wife didn't
 even mind me using her hair dryer since I returned it!
 Good Luck,
 Mitch Housh
 Yukon,OK
 ______________________________________________________
 Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 03 Mar 1998 10:32:54 PST
 From: "Mitch Housh"  Subject: Decal Removal
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 "T. Christopher Dunn"  Wrote:
 Subject: Removing body decals
 What is the best way to remove all the stickers from my truck including
 the
 glue, without harming the paint?
 Chris
 Chris,
 I have a 1984 Toyota SR5 X-Cab 4X4 and I removed my decals with just a
 1500 watt hair dryer and my fingernails. And by the way my wife didn't
 even mind me using her hair dryer since I returned it!
 Good Luck,
 Mitch Housh
 Yukon,OK
 ______________________________________________________
 Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 03 Mar 1998 21:16:50 -0600
 From: breeze@cysource.com (Jeffrey Delzer)
 Subject: dirty window tracks
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Leo G. Divinagracia III wrote:>> another thing is that if the window tracks are dirty, it will cause the> window travel to slow down, draining more juice while it's travelling.
 My windows seem to be moving slower than they used to, but the tracks
 don't look that dirty. What should I look for, and how would I clean
 them? Remove the door panels and try to go in that way?
 Jeff Delzer
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 03 Mar 1998 15:10:51 -0800
 From: Jerald Josephs  Subject: Gas
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Jeffrey Delzer wrote:> Wayne wrote:>>>>     My mileage has been poor also..but I also remember that during> the>> winter months (or more often), Calif oxygenates the gas to reduce> the>> pollution.>> Someone recently said they were seeing a pressure build-up in their> gas> tank, almost like the gas was carbonated. I didn't think to ask, but> now> I wonder if the folks who said that are in CA... Just a thought. If> they'll oxygenate, they might also carbonate, either of which it seems>> would lower the thermal energy contained in a given quantity of fuel.>> Jeff Delzer
 I was on that thread you mentioned and I am
 in California where the water is bottled and
 the gas is bubbly...
 Party on...
 - --
 Jerald Josephs   Nokia - IP Routing
 jerald.josephs@iprg.nokia.com 232 Java Drive, Sunnyvale, CA 94089
 http://www.ipsilon.com  Phone:  (408) 990-2000 ext 2175
 Fax:  (408) 743-5679
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 03 Mar 1998 15:20:34 -0800
 From: Jerald Josephs  Subject: gas tank question
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Well, heck, I dunno!
 I don't think we in CA buy carbonated gas.
 We buy oxygenated gas.
 Since oxygen is part of the combustion process,
 I guess it improves the burning efficiency.
 As to why there is tank pressure, I can only imagine
 that during normal operation, the contents of the tank
 heat up and expand.  If the tank was open, vapors would
 exit into the atmosphere.
 now, you wouldn't want that, would you?
 - --- jerald
 Jeffrey Delzer wrote:> Evidently those of you buying the carbonated fuel have decided to> remain> silent on this matter. Oh well, another mystery goes unsolved.>> Jeff Delzer>> Jeffrey Delzer wrote:>>>> Jerald Josephs wrote:>>>>>> The Emissions system on the Toys are supposed to direct high>>> pressure up to the front of the vehicle, through the charcoal> cannister,>>> and back through the intake manifold.>>>> Where does this high pressure originate, and why? In my experience,> you>> can shake a container of gas all day long without having it build up> any>> appreciable pressure. It's not carbonated like Coke, after all.> (extreme>> example, I know)>>>>> When you have a vacuum, this is supposed to be relieved by>>> the correct gas tank cap that will allow air to enter the tank>>> when necessary.>>>> It's been years since I read the Emissions section of my manual, but> I>> was under the impression that modern emissions systems had> NON-vented>> caps for the express purpose of directing fuel vapors into the> charcoal>> canister rather than allowing any direct interaction (in either>> direction) with the outside air. Have I been wrong all this time? It>>> appears so...>>>>> My '93 Regular cab V6 has always developed high tank pressure (not>>>> vacuum) since I bought it used with 16K on it.  Never did try to> resolve>>> it...>>>> My last half dozen vehicles or so, covering the last 15+ years for> me,>> have all had in common the fact that they draw in large amounts of> air>> as I remove the gas cap to refuel an empty tank. Not once has one>> developed a positive pressure inside the tank.>>>> You guys with your carbonated fuel have me ALL confused! :)>>>> Jeff Delzer
 - --
 Jerald Josephs   Nokia - IP Routing
 jerald.josephs@iprg.nokia.com 232 Java Drive, Sunnyvale, CA 94089
 http://www.ipsilon.com  Phone:  (408) 990-2000 ext 2175
 Fax:  (408) 743-5679
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 03 Mar 1998 20:53:12 -0600
 From: breeze@cysource.com (Jeffrey Delzer)
 Subject: gas tank question
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Jerald Josephs wrote:>> As to why there is tank pressure, I can only imagine> that during normal operation, the contents of the tank> heat up and expand.  If the tank was open, vapors would> exit into the atmosphere.>> now, you wouldn't want that, would you?
 Thanks Jerald, but I'm still confused. I agree with you, during normal
 operation the contents of the tank heat up (ambient air temp versus temp
 of underground storage tank), and that if the tank were open, (like they
 used to be years ago), then the vapors would exit into the atmosphere.
 But such is not the case anymore. For many years now, these vapors have
 been routed up front to a charcoal canister where they're stored until
 the engine is started. At that time, they're drawn into the engine and
 burned. None of this seems like it should cause a pressure build-up,
 AFAIK. In fact, just the opposite. I think I'll chalk it up to a plugged
 vent line between the tank and the charcoal canister.
 Jeff Delzer
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 03 Mar 1998 15:25:21 -0800
 From: Jerald Josephs  Subject: Gear and spares
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 s0baker@usuhsb.usuhs.mil wrote:> I am planning a trip to Moab for a week or so this summer.  I know it> will> be hot but I grew up in the desert so what else is new.  Anyways,> I have an '87 runner that is pretty much stock with 32x11.5 BFG AT.  I> intend> to put a lock-right and 4.88 gears on before I leave ans well as maybe>> some of those fenders you put on then cut out the sheetmetal to clear> the 32's> properly (They rub a little on compression).
 (snip)>  I may head over> to the rubicon while I am west of the mississipi as well.  What mods> are> necessary?  Do some of the more vertical obstacles have bypass routes> for> less equipped vehicles?
 A friend of mine did the Rubicon from the trail head at Ice House Roadto
 Spider lake in a '91 Ext Cab V6 Auto with Bridgestone MT 32x1150
 and the torsion bars cranked a little in front.
 He had no dents on the way in due to skilled spotters, who eventually
 drank too much and were useless on the way out.
 Now my friend has a few stories to tell... (I'll let him tell you the
 stories...)>>> Troy Baker> 87 'Runner
 - --
 Jerald Josephs   Nokia - IP Routing
 jerald.josephs@iprg.nokia.com 232 Java Drive, Sunnyvale, CA 94089
 http://www.ipsilon.com  Phone:  (408) 990-2000 ext 2175
 Fax:  (408) 743-5679
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 03 Mar 1998 17:56:44 -0800
 From: Gregg R Hayford  Subject: Guages
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org
 Saw a nice little stock guage step up at junk yard other dya I'm
 thinking of buying.  I forget the appropriate name but it is a guage set
 that tells your elevation and your body roll.  It does come from a Toy,
 but I'm curius where it would be mounted.  I'm guessing some trucks come
 stock with them.  Where do they come mounted from the factory??  I want
 it but not sure where I can put it w/o restricting my view out the front
 window.  My only guess right now is to maybe mount it on the dash on the
 passenger's side.  Any suggestions??  BTW,  I own a '93 Toy P/U
 - --
 ____________________
 Gregg R Hayford
 '93 Toy P/U
 22re 4 cyl.
 3" body
 33x12.50 Thornbirds
 15x10 wheels
 Http://www.geocities.com/baja/dunes/6290
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 03 Mar 1998 17:53:41 -0800
 From: Gregg R Hayford  Subject: Headlight covers on '93 P/U
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org
 Quick question.  I just recieved the carbon fiber headlight covers I
 ordered for my '93 Toy P/U.  The box they came in says '92 and up,
 however the method in which they need to be mounted to the truck doesn't
 seem possible.  The instruction state there are 3 different ways.  From
 the equipment that came with the box it is obvious that mounting them
 does not require the double sided tape,  didn't come with package,  all
 it came with was some little clips that clips to covers and then are
 suppose to snap over headlight assembly.  I've tried it numerous times
 and it just doesn't work.  Anyone else have this problem??  Appreciate
 any help I can get.
 Gregg
 - --
 ____________________
 Gregg R Hayford
 '93 Toy P/U
 22re 4 cyl.
 3" body
 33x12.50 Thornbirds
 15x10 wheels
 Http://www.geocities.com/baja/dunes/6290
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 03 Mar 1998 21:31:49 -0500
 From: Darren Floen  Subject: Headlight covers on '93 P/U
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 What are carbon fiber headlight covers for?Just for looks?
 Try calling the manufactorer for mounting details.Does it have clips
 that bolt to the headlight ring?
 Darren
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 03 Mar 1998 21:08:31 -0500
 From: Chris Knight  Subject: Headliner
 To: "Toy4x4@tlca.org"  Does anyone know of a company that makes molded headliners for Toyota
 p/u. I have an 85 X-cab and would like a full length one with a slot for
 a CB or radio and maybe two small speakers on each side. I'm planning on
 tearing everything out and having a custom center console with all the
 guages and accessories like a baja truck...what material do they use???
 I've considered black diamond plate alum. but haven't decided for sure.
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 04 Mar 1998 00:26:42 -0500
 From: andrew  Subject: High power alternator
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org>I've got a question for the list.  I've noticed in my 4Runner, that when>I use power accessories like windows or door locks my dash lights dim.>What can cause this and how can I correct it?
 I have the same problem, I asked the same type of question in issue #739
 I was wondering what alernator to get,I want one  with more power.  Any
 suggestions?  Thanks!
 Andrew>>>>85' 4x4 std. cab
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 3 Mar 1998 17:38:53 -0700
 From: "Eric Holley"  Subject: hubs and 4wd
 To: "toylist"  well I just replaced my hubs, from stock to warn premium hubs. I had a
 problem with the right front not unlocking. well when I took them apart the
 right one was shot. the spring was all bent and separated from the rest of
 the hub, and there was parts just falling out. well I think that my 4wd
 stick doesn't fully disengage the 4wd. how far should the travel be? it does
 turn the 4wd light out but I think that it used to go further forward.
 thanks,
 Eric Holley
 88' std cab                                          92' 4Runner
 31x10.5 BFG AT's                                 RS 5000's
 RS 5000's
 Smittybuilt prerunner grill guard
 93' 4Runner buckets
 Warn premium hubs
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 03 Mar 1998 22:36:37 -0600
 From: Chris Austin  Subject: INFO ON TEXAS TRIPS
 To: "Toy4x4@tlca.org"  Could someone provide me with some info on any good Texas trips ? I live
 in Dallas and have
 a stock 86 truck except for 31x11.5 tires...or does any one know of any
 good areas in the south
 Dallas area ...I actully live in Duncanville.....any one selling any
 parts? I am looking for a rear locker
 thanks,
 Chris Austin Jr.
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 03 Mar 1998 15:07:05 -0800
 From: Jerald Josephs  Subject: K&N Dropin Filter
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 John Aird wrote:> Wow,> I just bought a K&N Filter for my 95 4Runner V6,  Nice little> improvement!> Noticed a small increase in HP and Acceleration. Question: I noticed> that it> uses an oil to filter small particles when you clean it. Do these> filters> come already with the oil in them??
 Yes.> The installation instructions are vague.> It does say when you clean the filter to wash and dry, then re-oil> with a> K&N filter oil. And how often should I be looking to cleaning the> filter??> 15, k miles or what?? I dont do much off road stuff.
 Probably 15K ~ 30K for you.If you take it off-road and it is dusty, then
 clean it when
 you get home.
 don't worry about it looking dirty.  It actually works better after it
 has
 accumulated a little dirt after you clean.
 I tend to gently vacuum out the bugs and debris first and then
 consider cleaning and re-oiling, if necessary.
 I definitely clean the filter if I cannot see any red in the oil
 or if I cannot see any daylight through the filter.>>> Thanks,> John Aird>> jaird@vwc.edu>> Computer Services> Virginia Wesleyan College
 - --
 Jerald Josephs   Nokia - IP Routing
 jerald.josephs@iprg.nokia.com 232 Java Drive, Sunnyvale, CA 94089
 http://www.ipsilon.com  Phone:  (408) 990-2000 ext 2175
 Fax:  (408) 743-5679
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 03 Mar 1998 18:50:05 -0600
 From: "Steve C."  Subject: K&N Dropin Filter
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 John Aird wrote:>> Wow,> I just bought a K&N Filter for my 95 4Runner V6,  Nice little improvement!> Noticed a small increase in HP and Acceleration. Question: I noticed that it> uses an oil to filter small particles when you clean it. Do these filters> come already with the oil in them??
 If its red then its ready to rock and roll....its a cotton gauze so if
 its white then you need to oil it up.
 The installation instructions are vague.> It does say when you clean the filter to wash and dry, then re-oil with a> K&N filter oil. And how often should I be looking to cleaning the filter??> 15, k miles or what?? I dont do much off road stuff.> Clean when dirty...depends on you> Thanks,> John Aird>> jaird@vwc.edu>> Computer Services> Virginia Wesleyan College
 - --
 Steve Capuano			1996 Tacoma ext cab V6 4X4
 stevecapuano@geocities.com	32x11.50x15 BFG MT
 Houston, Texas			Rear LockRight  K&N filter
 Edelbrock headers
 NRA lifetime member		Dynomax 2.5" cat back
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 03 Mar 1998 13:45:39 -0500 (EST)
 From: The Extreme  Subject: lift
 To: 4x4 list  Hello all,
 I have a 1991 toyota 4x4 and am interested in lifting it, so what options
 do I have as far as lifts, mainly body. I am looking to run 33-12.50's and
 want to go for the best body lift around. What kind of lift should I go
 for. Also, it is a stick, is there any kind of extension that I have to
 get for the shifter so it will stay the same height , or is that only for
 the 4wd shifter???
 Any help is appreciated, and if anyone can tell me what kind of
 modifications I will need to do to the truck it will really help me
 also....thanks...
 Patrick Gers
 1991 4x4 V-6
 Grizzly Double/Single Roll bar
 Manik Full Push Bar
 Ram nerf bars
 rancho rs 5000 shocks
 Hella 500 driving lights
 31-11.50 Yokohama Super Digger V's
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 3 Mar 1998 22:45:14 -0000
 From: runars@isbank.is
 Subject: Moving spring hangers
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Scott, are you sure that it's just not he other end of the sway bar that
 is shackled...
 Anyway, the Toyota fact is very simple, If you are planning on
 increasing the front axle travel, you NEED crossover steering, to be on
 the safe side.   Its that simple.
 Runar.> -----Original Message-----> From:	Scott [SMTP:shollist@vt.edu]> Sent:	Tuesday, March 03, 1998 10:09 PM> To:	Toy4x4@tlca.org> Subject:	Re: Moving spring hangers>>>>>On this, why do Toy's need this rod?  I know Chevy's have the> same/similar>>steering, and they do not need a torque rod.  What is the difference?> stiffer>>springs?  Is it that crossover steering just makes this "roll"> irrelevant>>whereas it binds the stock steering?>>> I think it is in the way the sway bar is mounted.  It connects> directly to> the axle, which probable acts like the torque rod.> Scott
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 03 Mar 1998 16:50:04 -0700
 From: "Jay Kopycinski"  Subject: Moving spring hangers
 To: Toyota 4x4 List  DRM033  wrote:>On this, why do Toy's need this rod?
 When the axle rolls it under braking it changes the effective draglink
 distance and cause the tires to turn slightly.>I know Chevy's have the same/similar steering, and they do not>need a torque rod.  What is the difference?
 Hmmmm......thought about this but I'm not sure......>stiffer springs?
 Maybe....they also runlnverted leaves I think and maybe the center
 pin offset is different too.>Is it that crossover steering just makes this "roll" irrelevant>whereas it binds the stock steering?
 Since the control distance for the steering is no longer in a
 front to rear direction, but in a cross-wise direction, axle roll
 does not change the effective draglink distance.
 Jay Kopycinski    '85 Toylet  (ROKTOY)
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 03 Mar 1998 19:43:46 -0500
 From: Scott  Subject: Moving spring hangers
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 At 10:45 PM 3/3/98 -0000, you wrote:>Scott, are you sure that it's just not he other end of the sway bar that>is shackled...> Could be......
 Scott
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 03 Mar 1998 13:14:55 -0500
 From: Rob Ditusa  Subject: nerf bars
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Fred,
 I bought Smittybuilt nerf bars and bumpers for my 1980 longbed from
 4WPW in Ca. Their phone # is 1-800-421-1050. They are black, but I'm
 pretty sure they asked me if I wanted chrome. Only thing tho, Smittybuilt
 chrome is el-cheapo, rusts out real quick.
 RD>>> Fred Shaw  03/03/98 12:33pm>>> Looking for nerf bars in chrome for 1981 Toy 4x4  long bed, can't find
 anything in chrome here in the North West for anything older than 84.
 Does anyone know if nerf's for a 84 will fit a 81 ? Where does one find
 goodies for the older trucks?  Thanks Fred  S. Shaw
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 3 Mar 1998 12:54:39 -0600 (CST)
 From: gfrancis@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (Greg S. Francis)
 Subject: Roof Rack
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org
 I have an '88 4Runner, and I am thinking of putting a rack on it.  I
 already have some gutter-mount cross bars for it, and was going to put the
 rack on top of the bars.  My question is, how strong are the gutter rails
 on the fiberglass top?  Will I break them by putting some gear and a bike
 on top?  What have you other 1st gen. 'Runner guys done?  I'm not in favor
 of mounting a rack through the top with bolts.
 Thanks,
 - -Greg
 Greg S. Francis
 University of Texas @ Austin
 School of Architecture
 gfrancis@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu
 TLCA Member #5558
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 3 Mar 1998 13:39:59 -1000 (HST)
 From: Eric Johnson  Subject: Roof Rack
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 On Tue, 3 Mar 1998, Greg S. Francis wrote:> I have an '88 4Runner, and I am thinking of putting a rack on it.  I> already have some gutter-mount cross bars for it, and was going to put the> rack on top of the bars.  My question is, how strong are the gutter rails> on the fiberglass top?  Will I break them by putting some gear and a bike> on top?  What have you other 1st gen. 'Runner guys done?  I'm not in favor> of mounting a rack through the top with bolts.
 I would go buy the Con-ferr bolt-on mounts that are like a mini-gutter.
 the fiberglass gutters will break.
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 03 Mar 1998 17:53:30 -0700
 From: Rob Boyle  Subject: Roof Rack
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Eric Johnson wrote:>> On Tue, 3 Mar 1998, Greg S. Francis wrote:>>> I have an '88 4Runner, and I am thinking of putting a rack on it.>> I would go buy the Con-ferr bolt-on mounts that are like a mini-gutter.> the fiberglass gutters will break.
 I am the proud owner of an 85, and i have no fiberglass gutters left.
 they can handle about 500 lbs, till you start hitting bumps. At least
 that was the case for my gutters. everything was ok till I decided to
 take that shortcut to Telluride :)
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 3 Mar 1998 17:26:37 -0600 (CST)
 From: gfrancis@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (Greg S. Francis)
 Subject: Roof Strength
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org
 I have an '88 4Runner, and I am thinking of putting a rack on it.  I
 already have some gutter-mount cross bars for it, and was going to put the
 rack on top of the bars.  My question is, how strong are the gutter rails
 on the fiberglass top?  Will I break them by putting some gear and a bike
 on top?  What have you other 1st gen. 'Runner guys done?  I'm not in favor
 of mounting a rack through the top with bolts.
 Thanks,
 - -Greg
 Greg S. Francis
 University of Texas @ Austin
 School of Architecture
 gfrancis@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu
 TLCA Member #5558
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 03 Mar 1998 08:51:04 -0700
 From: "Jay Kopycinski"  Subject: Shock mounting
 To: Toyota 4x4 List  dquezada@diabloresearch.com wrote:>Is it okay to mount my RS9000's upside down? I'd like to get the>adjustment knob as far away from the ground (dirt, road grime, etc.)>as possible, and flipping the shock seemed like an easy solution.>Also, I've heard the pros and cons of running with and without>shock boots; what do you guys recommend?
 Yes, you can mount RS9000s either way. My vote is for bootless.
 Jay Kopycinski    '85 Toylet  (ROKTOY)
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 03 Mar 1998 20:26:16 -0700
 From: Tony Bartlett  Subject: Shock mounting
 To: Toy4x4  Dan wrote about mounting rs9000 upside down.
 I know a lot of people mounting them upside down, including me.
 I have seen them get air in the adjuster and they stop having any shock
 rate to them.
 I would mount mine right side up but with solid axle and normal steering
 you can not clear the tire and the steering arm with them mounted
 upright.
 If you set one on setting 1 and compress and rebound the shock they have
 different rates, I would think this would have some noticable difference
 between upside down and rightside up.
 Now about shock boots.  If you have the 9012 (13 1/2 inch travel)  The
 shock boots are not long enough to fully extend with the shock.  Kind of
 stupid to send a boot that will not even work with the shock.
 I also think the seal where the shaft enters the body is good enough on
 its own.
 Tony
 http://www.digitalpla.net/~offroader
 offroader@digitalpla.net
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 03 Mar 1998 08:52:52 -0700
 From: "Jay Kopycinski"  Subject: Tach correction
 To: Toyota 4x4 List , shollist@vt.edu
 Scott  wrote:>I was wondering if anyone knows which two terminals to hook the trim pot>to to recalibrate the tach for a V8.  I have taken the thing apart, and the>terminals are all labeled in Japanese.  I have asked Jay, but he doesn't>remember.  Reading the tach at double the rpm is getting a little tedious.
 Best bet is to access the terminals coming directly out of the ammeter
 where they contact the printed circtuit board.
 Jay Kopycinski    '85 Toylet  (ROKTOY)
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 3 Mar 1998 20:22:07 +0200
 From: "Barry Miller"  Subject: Tach correction
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org
 Someone wanted to know how to correct the tach
 On my old model there is an adjusting potentiometer on the back of the tach.
 You need to strip the instrument panel.
 I adjusted when I replaced the four cylinder with a Ford V6
 No problem.
 Barry
 Barry Miller
 PO Box 4172, Durban .South Africa . 4000
 Fax +27 <31> 833-202
 alias bmiller@iaccess.za
 alias bmiller@iafrica.com
 Cellphone <082>967-1998
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 03 Mar 1998 19:48:33 -0500
 From: Scott  Subject: Tach correction
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 At 08:22 PM 3/3/98 +0200, you wrote:>Someone wanted to know how to correct the tach>>On my old model there is an adjusting potentiometer on the back of the tach.>You need to strip the instrument panel.>>I adjusted when I replaced the four cylinder with a Ford V6>>No problem.> Thanks.  I am going to pull the cluster again tomorrow.
 Scott
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 03 Mar 1998 19:03:37 -0500
 From: Darren Floen  Subject: Taco (skid) crunch plates
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Up here in North West Ontario,logging is our main industry.These trucks
 i speak of haul logs to the sawmills and paper mills.The trailers we
 haul can carry around 25 cords of wood(logs),thats where the weight
 comes from.These trucks do some pretty amazing things in the bush to get
 that wood out.The roads are very rough,since they are only used until
 the wood is all gone from that area,then abandoned pretty much.All our
 trucks use stump pans,since the snow hides the obstacles.
 Darren
 wolfer1 wrote:>> Darren wrote:> I've seen aluminum pans tear like paper.They look good until you use> them.>> I've seen them tear also, but with closer inspection and getting a> piece of the skid plate it was only 3/32". Yes that would cause it to> tear. Taking it to work and testing it, it was a soft alloy and was> unaged. Artificial aging (baking in a oven) gives aluminum it's> strength. The ones in which I have fabricated for my Jeep CJ-6 ( Yes I> also own a JEEP) have held up for 3 years now and have minor dings in> them. I'm using 3/16" aluminum. The alloy has allot to do with how> strong the aluminum is. Out of curiosity what kind of truck and what> is loaded on them to weigh 150,000?>> Domencik
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 4 Mar 1998 00:49:02 -0500
 From: "wolfer1"  Subject: Taco (skid) crunch plates
 To:  I see why you have to built them so strong. If those are the same
 trucks they use on the west coast of Canada I have had a few close
 calls with them when I lived in Alaska and drove the AlCan or Cassiar
 Hwy.
 Darren wrote:
 Up here in North West Ontario,logging is our main industry.These
 trucks
 I speak of haul logs to the sawmills and paper mills.
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 3 Mar 1998 14:45:26 -0700 (PDT)
 From: Ken Emanuel  Subject: thinking of selling
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 On Mon, 2 Mar 1998, Neil McMullen wrote:> I'm thinking of trading in my 1992 Toyota 22RE 5 speed and getting a> Dodge... just kidding.  Actually I would like to get a 95.5 or newer Tacoma> V6 SR5 Xtra-Cab (hey I want all the goodies and power).  My question> surrounds what year, if any would be the best?
 First of all, I'm glad to see you're kidding about the Dodge.
 Second, IN MY OWN OPINION, (to be clearly stated), I would
 recommend sticking with the '89-'95 style truck.  Replace
 yours with an Xtra Cab SR5 V6.  I have heard of people having
 far more problems with the Tacomas then any of the older
 trucks.  The Tacomas weigh 400 lbs less than the truck
 they replace, and I just have to wonder where all that weight
 went besides thinner body panels and a frame that is unboxed
 from the forward rear spring mounts to the rear.
 After driving several Tacomas, I have learned that they
 are also noiser than the older trucks.  (The new 4 cylinder
 is quieter than the 22R-E, but the new 3.4L V6 is noiser
 than the old 3.0L V6.)  However the 400 lb. lighter Tacoma
 with an extra 40 HP outperforms any 3.0L V6 by no slim margin.
 The Tacomas have the first recalls that I have ever heard
 of in Toyota's history of 4WDs.
 *-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*
 Ken Emanuel                     Emanuel@csus.edu
 '87 Xtra Cab SR5    (22R-E)
 http://webpages.csus.edu/~sac75830/toystuff.htm
 *-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 03 Mar 1998 18:34:19 -0800
 From: Ken Emanuel  Subject: Toyota_nut
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Toyotanut wrote:>> unsubscribe please
 Hmm.  If the "Toyota_nut" can't take it anymore, what does that say
 about us?   We must be extra nutty.
 *-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*
 Ken Emanuel                     Emanuel@csus.edu
 '87 Xtra Cab SR5    (22R-E)
 http://webpages.csus.edu/~sac75830/toystuff.htm
 *-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 3 Mar 1998 13:28:42 -0500
 From: "Dan Schein" Subject: Tranny / Xfer Case - what fits what?
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Yesterday I wrote:>I pulled my 'G52' tranny apart tonight and the inside appears to be fine.
 The 'Counter Gear'>(commonly called the lay shaft) broke right where the
 snap ring on the rear of the case belongs>(where the diameter of the shaft gets smaller). This caused the 'needle
 roller bearing' to>destroy itself and jam things up.>Short version, i'm in need of a new lay
 shaft.>>Option #1 - Toyota or aftermarket replacement shaft (sounds costly)
 $349.64 for the Counter Gear - but that part has changed so it requires a
 new 2nd gear @ an
 additional $109.57.>Option #2 - Find a person, salvage yard, tranny shop with a used shaft in>good shape>Option #3 - Find a person, salvage yard, tranny shop local to me with a>used tranny and combine the 2 into one good one
 I called 19 transmission repair firms, none had parts or a tranny. Called
 16 yards, 1 had a
 tranny for $500, another for $600 w/exchange. Finally found one that has a
 G52 from an 85 22RE
 (Fuel Injected 4x4 P/U) for $350. They tell me it will fit if I also swap
 the transfer case.
 They have offered to swap transfer cases w/me for free. Sounds good, but
 does it fit?
 So its time for the experts in Toyota transmissions & transfer cases to
 come forward.
 What transmission & transfer case fits what?
 - -Dan
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 3 Mar 1998 16:39:08 -8 GMT
 From: "Leo G. Divinagracia III"  Subject: two things from Toy4x4 Digest V1 #742
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org> From: Kevin Valentine > Subject: higher power alternator>> I've got a question for the list.  I've noticed in my 4Runner, that when> I use power accessories like windows or door locks my dash lights dim.> What can cause this and how can I correct it?
 two words: power surge.  power windows can suck like 10-20 amps when it hits
 the limits - upper and lower.  if you don't release the switch and the window
 has already stop moving, the system wants to use more electrical juice to
 keep it moving.  my car alarm for my 90 4runner has window modules that allow
 me to raise the windows when the alarm is armed.  the modules have a sensing
 feature that when it tries to raise the windows and it reaches a certain
 amount of juice, it stops since it thinks it has reach the limit.
 another thing is that if the window tracks are dirty, it will cause the
 window travel to slow down, draining more juice while it's travelling.
 door locks should be not that bad of a problem since it's almost less than a
 second of drain, unless of course if the solenoids are sticking...  i'd check
 with the window tracks first.
 and if it seems that your battery is really 'weak,' you may wanna replace it
 if it's still the stock battery.> ------------------------------>> From: "John Aird" > Subject: K&N Dropin Filter>> Wow,> I just bought a K&N Filter for my 95 4Runner V6,  Nice little improvement!> Noticed a small increase in HP and Acceleration. Question: I noticed that it> uses an oil to filter small particles when you clean it. Do these filters> come already with the oil in them?? The installation instructions are vague.> It does say when you clean the filter to wash and dry, then re-oil with a> K&N filter oil. And how often should I be looking to cleaning the filter??> 15, k miles or what?? I dont do much off road stuff.> yes, they come oiled already.  it's the red dye added to the oil that you can
 check if the filter is still good.
 k&n claims around 50k between cleaning and re-oiling but some say they do
 theirs every oil change.  why not!  after all the cleaning kit's around $10-
 15.  it'll last for a few cleaning cycles.
 btw to clean them is a two step process.  you spray some cleaner to remove
 the dirt and the old oil.  let it air dry and re-oil.  kinda simple.  the
 biggest tip i can give you is to SAVE THE OLD FILTER!!!  when you clean the
 k&n, you have to stick in a filter if you wanna drive.  the first time i
 cleaned the filter, i needed to go somewhere but the k&n hasn't dried yet.
 so i was stuck...
 - -----------------------
 Leo G. Divinagracia III
 ldivinag@csuhayward.edu
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 03 Mar 1998 15:15:34 -0800
 From: Jerald Josephs  Subject: Why bother with high octane gas?
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org> The question was asked whether higher octane wasworth it in terms of gas
 mileage.  I get 17mpg city/hwy
 combined here in CA and I only use Chevron Premium.
 If I am anywhere, I will fill only with Chevron, Mobil, or
 Shell.  This is because I had read a Consumer Reports
 article about a decade ago, which rated these three as having
 gas that did what they claim it to do: make your car move and
 keep you engine clean.
 I run 92 octane for only one reason and that is to keep the
 injectors, valves, and combustion chambers clean.  I have been
 doing this for years, from Volkswagons and Volvo 122s to Toyota
 Supras and Trucks.
 I think at best, it just keeps things humming along a little better.
 I gave up on getting good gas mileage when I decided that I
 need to have BFG MTs on my truck to have fun!
 - --
 Jerald Josephs   Nokia - IP Routing
 jerald.josephs@iprg.nokia.com 232 Java Drive, Sunnyvale, CA 94089
 http://www.ipsilon.com  Phone:  (408) 990-2000 ext 2175
 Fax:  (408) 743-5679
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 4 Mar 1998 15:25:47 -0800
 From: "Brandon Miller"  Subject: Why bother with high octane gas?
 To:  This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
 - ------=_NextPart_000_0055_01BD4781.CE9582A0
 Content-Type: text/plain;
 charset="iso-8859-1"
 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
 My thoughts, I have tried different octanes and if your engine is not
 modified it does not need high octane fuel.  I run the cheapest gas I find
 and have never had problems, hey the difference adds up over time. Run what
 your manual says and save your money for other things,,,,
 - -----Original Message-----
 From: Jerald Josephs  To: Toy4x4@tlca.org  Date: Tuesday, March 03, 1998 3:19 PM
 Subject: Why bother with high octane gas?>>>>The question was asked whether higher octane wasworth it in terms of gas>mileage.  I get 17mpg city/hwy>combined here in CA and I only use Chevron Premium.>>If I am anywhere, I will fill only with Chevron, Mobil, or>Shell.  This is because I had read a Consumer Reports>article about a decade ago, which rated these three as having>gas that did what they claim it to do: make your car move and>keep you engine clean.>>I run 92 octane for only one reason and that is to keep the>injectors, valves, and combustion chambers clean.  I have been>doing this for years, from Volkswagons and Volvo 122s to Toyota>Supras and Trucks.>>I think at best, it just keeps things humming along a little better.>I gave up on getting good gas mileage when I decided that I>need to have BFG MTs on my truck to have fun!>>>--
>Jerald Josephs   Nokia - IP Routing>jerald.josephs@iprg.nokia.com 232 Java Drive, Sunnyvale, CA 94089>http://www.ipsilon.com  Phone:  (408) 990-2000 ext 2175>Fax:  (408) 743-5679>> - ------=_NextPart_000_0055_01BD4781.CE9582A0
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 filename="Brandon Daniel Miller.vcf"
 BEGIN:VCARD
 N:Miller;Brandon;Daniel
 FN:Brandon Daniel Miller
 ORG:Rail Technology, Inc.
 TITLE:Civil Engineer
 ADR;HOME:;;;Sacramento;CA
 LABEL;HOME:Sacramento, CA
 URL:http://gaia.ecs.csus.edu/~millerb
 URL:http://members.aol.com/railtekinc/
 EMAIL;PREF;INTERNET:miller@csus.edu
 END:VCARD
 - ------=_NextPart_000_0055_01BD4781.CE9582A0--
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 03 Mar 1998 18:37:59 -0500
 From: Ed Ruf  Subject: Why bother with high octane gas?
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 On 03:15 PM 3/3/98 -0800, Jerald Josephs wrote:>I run 92 octane for only one reason and that is to keep the>injectors, valves, and combustion chambers clean.  I have been>doing this for years, from Volkswagons and Volvo 122s to Toyota>Supras and Trucks.
 It's not the higher octane rating that does the cleaning, it's the
 detergents added. Years back these detergents were only added to the
 highest octane (read mot expensive) formulations. These days that is
 no longer the case. There are significant levels of detergents in all
 octanes and every brand, save Bossie's fillup on the side of the Hwy
 in crossroads Kansas. FWIW, major brand names may or may not mean
 much as far as the actual gas goes.
 Ed
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 3 Mar 1998 18:40:11 EST
 From: DRM033  Subject: Why bother with high octane gas?
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 In a message dated 98-03-03 18:27:49 EST, you write:> My thoughts, I have tried different octanes and if your engine is not>  modified it does not need high octane fuel.  I run the cheapest gas I find>  and have never had problems, hey the difference adds up over time. Run what>  your manual says and save your money for other things,,,,
 I gotta disagree.  I think this comes down to each different engine.  My 22RE
 runs poorly on 87 octane, and better on 89/90 + octane.  some engines, like
 yours, obvoiusly do not react differently.  I don't know why, but this is
 life.  So, I have always gone by the rule that you should run the minimum
 octane that does not offer any engine performance problems, whatever that may
 be.
 As to gas brand preferences, there are major differences between stations.  I
 will never buy from Golden Gallon again.  on a trail ride our club had, out of
 6 trucks that filled up there 4 had started running poorly by halfway through
 the trail.  All trucks filled up again (Shell) before heading home, and
 everyone reported that the problems were gone once that bad gas had been run
 through.
 I prefer Shell, Amoco(sp), BP, or Exxon.  I WILL NOT but gas from a no-name
 place, especially the ones that sell for 5 cents less than anywhere else.
 Kinda makes me wonder - the old saying "you get what you pay for"...
 - ---------------------------------------------------------------------
 David Moore                       DRM033@aol.com
 90 Toyota Truck - 4" ProComp, 33" Swampers,
 4.88's, rear ARB, TJM bumper & Ramsey #8000
 TLCA #5662
 Traxx In Motion 4 Wheel Drive Club
 www.netmatter.com/traxx
 - ---------------------------------------------------------------------
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