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Toy4x4 Mailing List Digest v1n679

Publish date: Dec 1, 2005
By: ORC STAFF
Source: Off-Road.com

Toy4x4 Digest Wed, 28 Jan 98 12:30:02 (HST) Volume 1 : Issue 679
Today's Topics:
"Dixie Horn" (4 msgs)
13.......not so unlucky!
22r rings and bearings
4WD indicator light on dash of '86 4Runner
alternator update
bio
Convertible Toy Truck (3 msgs)
Final word on exhuast
funny thing seen in the 4runner forum by a web site
Gas Light (2 msgs)
Horn Relay (5 msgs)
How to keep your toyota alive, steering problems, losing oil (5 msgs)
NWOR WebSite
One more (last?) fuel light comment
San Antonio
Steven's Creek Toyota (3 msgs)
Steven's Creek Toyota -- Clueless Mike
Toy4x4 Digest V1 #678
toyota trecker
Truck Hill -almost- claims another
u-joints (4 msgs)
u-joints & long story
vented disk swap: better stops?
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 07:40:29 -0500
From: "penny" Subject: "Dixie Horn"
To: I am looking for the same horn used on the "general lee" from the old dukes
of hazzard show, none of the local parts places carry them anymore,
although 5 yrs.
ago i remember seeing em all the time. Anyone know where i could get one?
or have a used one youd like to sell?
Jimmy 82Toy4x4 L.B.
purnrgy@quancon.com
http://www.geocities.com/baja/6397/
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 05:24:59 -1000 (HST)
From: Eric Johnson Subject: "Dixie Horn"
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
On Wed, 28 Jan 1998, penny wrote:> I am looking for the same horn used on the "general lee" from the old dukes> of hazzard show, none of the local parts places carry them anymore,> although 5 yrs.> ago i remember seeing em all the time. Anyone know where i could get one?> or have a used one youd like to sell?
JC Whitney has these.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 10:27:43 -0600
From: John Schultz Subject: "Dixie Horn"
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org> On Wed, 28 Jan 1998, penny wrote:>>> I am looking for the same horn used on the "general lee" from the old dukes>> of hazzard show>> Anyone know where i could get one?
Hazzard County maybe???
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 15:14:28 EST
From: DRM033 Subject: "Dixie Horn"
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
In a message dated 98-01-28 07:49:05 EST, you write:> I am looking for the same horn used on the "general lee" from the old dukes> of hazzard show
I believe JC Whitney carries one.
- ---------------------------------------------------------------------
David Moore DRM033@aol.com
90 Toyota Truck - 4" ProComp, 33" Swampers,
4.88's, rear ARB, TJM bumper & Ramsey #8000
TLCA #5662
Traxx In Motion 4 Wheel Drive Club
- ---------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 13:46:10 -0700
From: "Jay Kopycinski" Subject: 13.......not so unlucky!
To: Toyota 4x4 List I dunno what the traditional 13th wedding anniversary
gift is, but my wife informed me that mine is a Marlin
Crawler :-) .......'course she ended up with diamonds,
but that's how it goes ;-)
hmmmm.......enough to be Toy list related I think.......
Jay Kopycinski '85 Toylet (ROKTOY)
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 11:05:09 -0700
From: "Baltzly, Michael R(C05422)" Subject: 22r rings and bearings
To: "'Toy4x4@tlca.org'" >My 81 SR5 22r longbed burns 1.5 quarts of oil per tank of gas. It has
no>leaks and Ok compression. What kind of success should I have from a
in>frame replacement of the rings and rod bearings? JC whitney sells a
kit>that includes gaskets rings and bearing for aprox $110, any thoughts?
I've>already replaced the valve stem seals, should anything else be done
during>the minor rebuild? Thanks to everyone on the list for all of the
insight>and helpful information.
By some weird coincidence I just got done replacing the rings and rod
bearings on my 85 last night. It was using about the same amount of
oil yours, also appeared to be in good shape otherwise, and had a
valve job about a year ago that didn't help the oil consumpution. I
worked carefully and it took me about 16 hours total. Once you get
everything disassembled, the actual replacement of the rings is a
snap. There is no problem accessing the bottom end on a live-axle
truck.
After 225,000 miles my old bearings looked like new, and there was
crosshatch showing in the cylinders. There was so little ridge in the
cylinders that I did not bother to remove it and the pistons slid in
easily with the new rings.
I only had a chance to drive a few miles since I got done. I will
give a better report after I make sure that everything is holding
together.
Mike
------------------------------
Date: 28 Jan 98 10:00:01 PST
From: Norman.Goetz@directory.reed.edu (Norman Goetz)
Subject: 4WD indicator light on dash of '86 4Runner
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
- --- You wrote:
The 4WD indicator light on my instrument cluster does Not
work anymore for some strange reason, after installing New
carpet in my 1986 4Runner.
Yes, I pulled the inst. cluster and checked the lamp w/a Ohm
meter. It checks good. I also cleaned the contacts but still
no light illumination when in 4WD.
- --- end of quote ---
Assuming there's a relay somewhere in the transfer case that closes in 4WD, did
your carpet project accidentally cut or short the wire between it and the dash?
Norman
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 16:11:24 -0600
From: breeze@cysource.com (Jeffrey Delzer)
Subject: alternator update
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Rick Murray wrote:>> Interesting experience with my alternator(s) recently.>> I had posted that I replaced it with a unit from NAPA ($75). I also> noticed that the in-dash voltmeter was nearly pegged to the '18'.> I didn't recall if it did that before someone on the list mentioned> that theirs did that too, so I didn't worry about it .
There were also a couple of us who pointed out that 18 Volts is way too
high for a properly functioning system. Sorry to hear about your
experiences, but I think it was inevitable.
Jeff Delzer
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 08:23:15 -0600
From: "B. Baldwin, BWSC Marketing" Subject: bio
To: "'toy4x4@tlca.org'" POST TO THE LIST ONLY>> toy4x4@tlca.org
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Name: Brent Baldwin
City & State: Watertown, Tennessee
Country: USA
E-mail address: bbaldwin@isdn.net
Toyota (s) year & model: 88 4x4 reg. cab V6
Are you a TLCA Member (Y/N/Number?): N
Age: 35
Occupation: Engineering Marketing
Marital Status: M
Hobbies: Caving, Metal Detecting
How did you find out about the Toyota 4x4 Mailing List: Searching
General info about your vehicle, self, etc.: I haven't picked it up yet. My
brother bought it for me in Dallas, so I'll pick it up in a couple of
weeks. Used to have a 79 4X4 and loved it.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 09:37:53 -0500
From: Ed.Wong@astramerck.com
Subject: Convertible Toy Truck
To: sgard@flnet.com, toy4x4@tlca.org
I recall these "Kits" being real popular with the 2WD "Lo-Rider" crowd.
Then the kits disappeared real fast.
(SoapBox Mode On)
I believe that a few lawsuits poped up with respect to people either flipping their
truck, or the inherent body weakness issue.
IMHO - its another example of idiots ruining it for us all.
While I would never convert *my* truck to a convertible, I dont see
why others "cant". It just that most people have no clue as to the
ramifications of such "major surgery" and then dont accept
responsibility for making such a decision.
(SoapBox Mode Off)
EWong
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 09:47:37 -0500 (EST)
From: "Dr. Karl Bellve" Subject: Convertible Toy Truck
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
On Wed, 28 Jan 1998 Ed.Wong@astramerck.com wrote:
stuff cut>> (SoapBox Mode On)> I believe that a few lawsuits poped up with respect to people either flipping their> truck, or the inherent body weakness issue.>> IMHO - its another example of idiots ruining it for us all.> While I would never convert *my* truck to a convertible, I dont see> why others "cant". It just that most people have no clue as to the> ramifications of such "major surgery" and then dont accept> responsibility for making such a decision.> (SoapBox Mode Off)>> EWong> Very true.
I wouldn't think there would be much body weakness since Toy trucks use
frames. However, the frame doesn't help when the truck is upside down
without a true roof. ;-)
I was actually thinking of doing something similiar to my 4Runner. I would
remove the roof just above and behind the driver's head. That area is
reinforced on purpose. I think pickup convetibles remove this all the way
down to the bed, removing all head protection in the event of a roll. I
would remove just behind to windshield to just before the reinforced area.
Basically the area my sun roof occupies except widen it to the doors. Then
use a roll cage in the truck. I would then be able to remove the roof
piece as a panel like the T-Tops in sport cars. I think Corvettes have a
single roof piece.
Cheers,
Karl Bellve, Ph.D.
Biomedical Imaging Group
University of Massachusetts
WWW : http://molmed.ummed.edu/~kdb/
Email: kdb@molmed.ummed.edu
Phone: (508) 856-3785
Fax : (508) 856-1840
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 15:14:20 EST
From: DRM033 Subject: Convertible Toy Truck
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
In a message dated 98-01-28 09:40:52 EST, you write:> believe that a few lawsuits poped up with respect to people either flipping> their> truck, or the inherent body weakness issue.
I talked with a friend about these kits, as he has installed several on
numerous vehicles. He said the kits are fine, but the problem comes in when
you take it off road. He said the body is now missing suppor is is designed
to need, and if you get it flexed up you run the possibility of doing damage,
including ripping off striker bolts and literally creasing or tearing sheet
metal. A good quility cage that ties the body to the frame is the only way to
really avoid this.
- ---------------------------------------------------------------------
David Moore DRM033@aol.com
90 Toyota Truck - 4" ProComp, 33" Swampers,
4.88's, rear ARB, TJM bumper & Ramsey #8000
TLCA #5662
Traxx In Motion 4 Wheel Drive Club
- ---------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 08:14:47 -0800
From: Michael Henry Subject: Final word on exhuast
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Jonathan Albrecht wrote:>>> My opinion would be to go with the Flowmaster 3-chamber on the 3.0L.>> It makes for a nice, throaty sound. My brother ran one on his without>> Are there different types of Flowmaster mufflers? Like Dynomax has the> ultra flow (looks like a borla--you can see light on the other side) and> the super turbo (baffled).> Well, yes and no. Yes, there are a few different designs, but they all
use baffles. The three chamber muffler has an additional chamber with
extra baffling to quiet the can down. It is also about twice the price
of the 2-chamber Flowmaster though. Big profit maker for Flowmaster
because I know how much extra time and materials go into them, I used to
build them. I've put the two-chambered mufflers onto 3 of my vehicles,
two V-8's and one four-cylinder with a header and 2 1/2" pipe (not a
Toyota). My recommendation is with a four cylinder go with the three
chamber or go with a Dynomax. The sound can be quite annoying with the
two-chamber, especially with a header.
Michael Henry
Forestville, CA
henry@sonic.net
------------------------------
Date: 28 Jan 1998 08:55:21 -0800
From: Dion Hollenbeck Subject: funny thing seen in the 4runner forum by a web site
To: toy4x4@tlca.org>> Eric Johnson writes:
EJ> I didn't read the whole thread - but isn't it just obvious that
EJ> you take the capacity of the tank, and when the light comes on,
EJ> fill it up and subtract the amount it took to fill?
Almost right, you forgot to subtract the amount of gas left in the
tank when it runs dry since almost every tank will not "run dry" but
stop providing fuel when there is still fuel left.
dion
`85 4Runner 22RE
`86 4x4 PU 22RE
Dion Hollenbeck (619)597-7080x164 Email: hollen@vigra.com
http://www.vigra.com/~hollen
Sr. Software Engineer - Vigra Div. of Visicom Labs San Diego, California
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 09:22:49 -0800
From: "Roger Brown P.E." Subject: Gas Light
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Luke wrote:
- -> '85 SR5 4Runner: no low gas light. I've had that dash apart, driven it
until I could put 15.12 gallons in the "15" gallon gas tank, and I know
there is no light. Oh well, it's good exercise to walk to the gas station.
<--
I'm pretty sure I don't have one in my '85 4Runenr SR5. Was cruising into
Bakersfield (on the way to Death Valley) and without warning, she just shut
down. Pulled over and dumped my spare 2 gals. of gas into it and all was fine.
Ended up with a 20+ gallon fillup (including the can).
Does anyone know for certain if the 85's had such a gizmo? I'd gladly rip the
cellophane off of my Owner's Manual, 'cept I ain't got one!
- --
Roger Brown, P.E. mailto:rogerb@sgi.com
+1.650.933.1898 (vmail) +1.650.932.1898 (fax)
http://reality.sgi.com/rogerb/
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 12:32:20 -0500
From: Karl Bellve Subject: Gas Light
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
At 09:22 AM 1/28/98 -0800, you wrote:>Luke wrote:>->>'85 SR5 4Runner: no low gas light. I've had that dash apart, driven it>until I could put 15.12 gallons in the "15" gallon gas tank, and I know>there is no light. Oh well, it's good exercise to walk to the gas station.><-->>I'm pretty sure I don't have one in my '85 4Runenr SR5. Was cruising into>Bakersfield (on the way to Death Valley) and without warning, she just shut>down. Pulled over and dumped my spare 2 gals. of gas into it and all was fine.> Ended up with a 20+ gallon fillup (including the can).>>Does anyone know for certain if the 85's had such a gizmo? I'd gladly rip the>cellophane off of my Owner's Manual, 'cept I ain't got one!> I had a regular 1985 4Runner and now a SR5 version (same year). Neither have
a gas warning light. The SR5 does have a remote gas door opening gadget that
lets me open the gas door without getting out of the truck. I hate when gas
station attendants use my key to 'force' open the gas door. (only happens
when I am in a state that forces full serve like NJ).
Cheers,
Karl Bellve, Ph.D.
Biomedical Imaging Group
University of Massachusetts
email: kdb@molmed.ummed.edu
www : http://molmed.ummed.edu/~kdb/
phone: 508-856-3785
fax : 508-856-1840
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 09:49:20 -0800
From: Kevin Valentine Subject: Horn Relay
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
I just want to caution you to probably avoid the air horns. At least
the Hella and Fiamm type with plastic horns and plastic covered
compressors.
They are crap!
I've installed and returned 3 sets.
They all quit working aparently from dust or something being sucked into
the compressor and shot into the horns.
Has anyone found any other horns that sound much better than the road
runner "beep-beeps"?
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 13:26:27 -0600 (CST)
From: "Bruce Burden" Subject: Horn Relay
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org>> I just want to caution you to probably avoid the air horns. At least> the Hella and Fiamm type with plastic horns and plastic covered> compressors.> I loathe air horns, so that wasn't an issue with me.>> Has anyone found any other horns that sound much better than the road> runner "beep-beeps"?> The Hella's I installed are regular electric horns. They
are sold as a set, including the relay. One horn is 500Hz, the
other is 300Hz. Really interesting sound, since they have their
own interference pattern. And, they get NOTICED!!!
I had a foolish woman pull out in front of me (I was expecting
it, she had "stupid" tatooed to her forehead), so as soon as
she moved, I was on the brakes and the horn. I had to chuckle
at her VERY wide eyes (caught in the glare of my Sylvania XV
halogen lights). Hopefully her panties were soiled.
At any rate, the few times I have needed the horn, *some
thing* happens, since they are more along the line of "WAKE THE
HELL UP!" rather than the stock "excuse, please." type of
horn.
Bruce
- --
- -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bruce Burden bruceb@isd.tandem.com Tandem Computers Inc.
512-432-8944 Network Verification 14231 Tandem Blvd.
Auto answer(4 rings) Austin, TX 78726
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 11:33:23 -0800
From: Scott Muir Subject: Horn Relay
To: "Toy4x4@tlca.org" Brent M. Dombrowski wrote:
I've got a '97 Tacoma and I want to put an aftermarket horn in it. Does
anybody know where the relay for the horn is?
Pull the connector off the stock horns and then get someone to press the button
a few times
and use those aural sensors of yours to find the clicking (if there is any)
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 12:52:01 -0800
From: Kevin Valentine Subject: Horn Relay
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
That is good info. on the Hella electrics with relay. They are spendy
though. I saw 'em in Performance's catalog for like $60 U.S.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 17:22:23 -0500
From: Alexander Ney Subject: Horn Relay
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
In my '93 4Runner, the relay is behind the driver side kick panel, between
then fuse box and the firewall. Real hard to get to, and even harder to
find the wires.
I did what sounds like you are you are trying to do, put in air horns.
Mine or on a switch with the OE horns. The two magnetic horns come
together somewhere in the cabin, I believe, and then go into the relay,
which recieves the power and the signal from your horn button. I could not
find where the two horn wires came together, but I do know that they do
somewhere. I ended up cutting the wire right before one of the horns and
using that as my signal to the relay for my air horns. It is all tied into
a switch on my dash, I can choose between the magnetic and the air horns.
Hope this helps, let me know if you find the wires going in/out of the
relay. With my current set-up, one of the magnetics always goes off and,
due to a lot of wiring, there is a small delay for the air horn when it is
on.
- Alex
- -----ORIGINAL MESSAGE-----
Date: Tue, 27 Jan 98 16:06:55 -0700
From: "Brent M. Dombrowski" Subject: Horn Relay
To: I've got a '97 Tacoma and I want to put an aftermarket horn in it. Does
anybody know where the relay for the horn is? I would like to tap into
the circuit before the relay (I'm assuming there is one someplace).
bd
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 13:48:33 -0500
From: "Eli Madden" Subject: How to keep your toyota alive, steering problems, losing oil
To: toy4x4@tlca.org
Sorry to put three subjects in one message, but I'm in a hurry.
*How To Keep Your Toyota Alive* is a great book for beginners. Even if you have worked on your Toy before, it's still funny and informative to read. It has probably the best descriptions of routine maintenance that I've sseen. It does not go into the engine hardly at all.
*Steering*. Is there slop in the steering wheel? When I bought my '83 it had a good amount of slop. Most of the slop was from where the drag-link connects to the axle (the drag link is the rod that goes from the steering box to the axle). I took apart the junction, cleaned it out, filled it with grease and put a couple extra washers in or something. I can't remember what I put in there to take up the space, but it should be obvious once you get it apart. At this point there was still a little slop at the
wheel. There is a nut on the side of the steering box that tightens the steering. It has a screw in the middle of the nut that locks the nut. Loosen the screw, tighten the nut a little, check the wheel for slop (this presumes that the remaining slop is coming from the box), tighten or loosen the nut a little more, then tighten the lock screw. Actually, the nut might lock the screw, I forget. It'll be obvious once you play with it. Anyways, now go for a drive. I loosened the box up a little after going for a
drive because it was tightened enough that the wheels would stick slightly, ie I could let go of the wheel while turning and the vehicle would keep turning instead of straightening out. Takes a little fiddling and tuning, but man is it worth it! You don't realize how loose steering is until you tighten it up!
You shouldn't need a steering stabilizer on the road. If tightening the steering wheel dosn't solve your problem, check your tires for uneven wear. Check alignment. Rotate your tires.
*Losing Oil* If the truck is BURNING oil you'll see blue-ish smoke coming out the exhaust when you accelerate or just rev the engine. If it is LEAKING oil you should see it on the engine somewhere. You might need to wash the engine (wait for the engine to cool first!) to see where the oil is coming from.
This brings up a question that I've pondered for a while -
How come washing your hot engine at the car wash can crack it, but plunging into water or mud dosn't?
Eli Madden
emadden@inacom-vt.com
'83 Toyota SR5 Shortbed
------------------------------
Date: 28 Jan 98 11:23:24 PST
From: Norman.Goetz@directory.reed.edu (Norman Goetz)
Subject: How to keep your toyota alive, steering problems, losing oil
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
- --- You wrote:
This brings up a question that I've pondered for a while -
How come washing your hot engine at the car wash can crack it, but plunging
into water or mud dosn't?
- --- end of quote ---
Not sure, but it may be that when the engine is running and the coolant and oil
are circulating, it can dissipate sudden heat or cold better.
Norman
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 15:11:17 -0500
From: Darren Floen Subject: How to keep your toyota alive, steering problems, losing oil
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
I,personally,Have never heard of anyone cracking an engine block from
either of these situations.I would imagine that if the engine
temperatures were high enough that it may be possible,but i really don't
think that 200 degrees would be hot enough.Anyone else ever hear witness
this?Just curious.
Darren
Norman Goetz wrote:>> --- You wrote:> This brings up a question that I've pondered for a while -> How come washing your hot engine at the car wash can crack it, but plunging> into water or mud dosn't?> --- end of quote --->> Not sure, but it may be that when the engine is running and the coolant and oil> are circulating, it can dissipate sudden heat or cold better.>> Norman
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 12:44:44 -0700 (PDT)
From: Ken Emanuel Subject: How to keep your toyota alive, steering problems, losing oil
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
On Wed, 28 Jan 1998, Darren Floen wrote:> I,personally,Have never heard of anyone cracking an engine block from> either of these situations.I would imagine that if the engine> temperatures were high enough that it may be possible,but i really don't> think that 200 degrees would be hot enough.Anyone else ever hear witness> this?Just curious.> I have heard of it plenty of times on small motors--lawn mowers, weed
eaters, etc.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 16:41:18 -0500
From: Darren Floen Subject: How to keep your toyota alive, steering problems, losing oil
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
I threw a chainsaw in a pond once,but i doubt it cracked cuz it wouldn't
start.:-)
Darren Floen
Ken Emanuel wrote:>> On Wed, 28 Jan 1998, Darren Floen wrote:>>> I,personally,Have never heard of anyone cracking an engine block from>> either of these situations.I would imagine that if the engine>> temperatures were high enough that it may be possible,but i really don't>> think that 200 degrees would be hot enough.Anyone else ever hear witness>> this?Just curious.>>>> I have heard of it plenty of times on small motors--lawn mowers, weed> eaters, etc.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 12:43:27 -0600
From: "Gallus, Brian" Subject: NWOR WebSite
To: "'toy4x4@tlca.org'" Sorry, don't mean to start this thread again, but I just had to share
this from NWOR's web site:
"We may not always be the cheapest, but when quality, service and
dependibility are considered, we will usually be the least expensive. "
After the morning that I've had, this has brought a smile to my face....
haven't laughed so hard in a while.
bkg
- ---------------------------------------------------------------------
Brian Gallus 87 4Runner SR5
BrianGallus@DynaMark.com 33's, 4.88's, TrueTrac
Vadnais Heights, MN 3" Rancho, 2" body
Minnesota Toyx4's #95 / MN4WDA / TLCA #5581
http://www.off-road.com/~MNTOYX4
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 06:58:48 -0800
From: "Don M. West" Subject: One more (last?) fuel light comment
To: Toyota 4x4 mailing list When I bought my truck last year i had wondered about the low fuel light,
too. The truck is a DX model ('94) and has a tach in the instrument
cluster. The owner's manual simply shows that if you have this cluster you
have a low fuel light, but that ain't so, Joe, there's no light on mine.
The later consensus was that it was an SR5 thing. Oh well, I've gotten to
know my truck and I know how far I can take the needle down to (and past)
the "E"...works for me.
Meanwhile I was looking through old digests and researching my front bumper
options. Smittys are OK, but I think I'd like to save for something even
beefier. The TJM and ARB look great and appear as close to as stong as you
can get (just ask Chris!), but aren't cheap (Performance quoted the T-17
TJM with grill guard at close to $600 + shipping...and it takes 3 months to
come from Austrailia). Ruenel was also mentioned to me, but I didn't find a
lot of info on them. Anyone have comments? They're based in California, I
understand, and custom make a bumper to your specific year and model, which
sounds great (although probably in the same price range). Well, I like to
get all my facts and do it right when I can *;)
Don
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 14:43:42 -0600 (CST)
From: gfrancis@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (Greg S. Francis)
Subject: San Antonio
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org>Greg,>>Im curious as to where you went in SA?>And how was it??>>John
John,
We went to Uvalde, and this is a reprint of what I wrote to Todd Hoffmaster
about it:> Hey Todd,> Yes, we went to Uvalde on Sat, but it was a late decision and I didn't get> it posted in time to get anyone from the list to come.> Overall, I was a bit dissapointed. We went upstream from the bridge (US> 83?), and the only challenging obstacles we encountered were some small> waterfalls. Two of the J**ps I was with had open diffs, and kept getting> bogged down in the gravel, so strapping them out every few minutes really> slowed things down. The most fun we had was flying around in my brother's> VW powered sandrail. He's a madman ad would jump it 20 feet from the bank> into the river! It was a blast. Not much of a challenge for the trucks,> I> prefer Ft. Hood. Not worth the 3.5 hour drive IMHO.> Have you been there before? What did you think? Did you go up or down> river?> I'd like to know how your trip this weekend goes.> -Greg>> He says he is going this Sat., and has a friend who knows some trails, so
they may have a better time of it. I'm anxious to see what he thinks.
- -Greg
Greg S. Francis
University of Texas @ Austin
School of Architecture
gfrancis@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu
TLCA Member #5558
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 06:46:34 -0500
From: Ed Ruf Subject: Steven's Creek Toyota
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
At 06:58 PM 1/27/98 -0800, Scott Wilson illustriously expounded:>it. The service guys are clueless...except for Mike...he's the service>writter I've been dealing with for the last 2.5 months. And don't get>me wrong...MIKE IS CLUELESS..just not about the discount.
I think this must be the number one qualification for the job. When I had
the truly wonderful (sic) experience of owning a first year IROC-Z, I used
to show up with literally several pages of typed complaints and notes about
the problems that needed taking care of. No matter how hard I tried, this
would get translated down in to a few minuscule lines on the work order,m
any times missing the main key point. Even with my notes stapled to the
form they were totally ignored. Needless to say that in 13 months this new
car spent over 90 days in the shop. Just glad I won the lemon law
arbitration and GM had to buy the car back, though at some loss to me. I'll
never buy another GM product as long as I live.
Ed
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 09:19:18 -0500 (EST)
From: "Dr. Karl Bellve" Subject: Steven's Creek Toyota
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
On Wed, 28 Jan 1998, Ed Ruf wrote:> I think this must be the number one qualification for the job. When I had> the truly wonderful (sic) experience of owning a first year IROC-Z, I used> to show up with literally several pages of typed complaints and notes about> the problems that needed taking care of. No matter how hard I tried, this> would get translated down in to a few minuscule lines on the work order,m> any times missing the main key point. Even with my notes stapled to the> form they were totally ignored. Needless to say that in 13 months this new> car spent over 90 days in the shop. Just glad I won the lemon law> arbitration and GM had to buy the car back, though at some loss to me. I'll> never buy another GM product as long as I live.>> Ed
IROC-Z came out in the mid 80s? I think alot of the american cars were
suspect up into the 80s. However, I wouldn't rule out a manufacturer
because of one car, especially one built in the mid 80s. I have owned GM,
Toyota, Ford cars. I currently own my 4Runner and a Ford Taurus station
wagon (3.0 V6). The wagon has 250K miles on it and has had no problems
(besides rust spots due to the NE). My 4Runner has had blown a head gasket
(shortly after I bought the truck used, 22RE), dead fuel pump, idler pully
bearing shot, front knuckle bearings go (waiting for the summer to replace
these), dead rear window defroster. These are just the things that have
happened in the last year. I know other stuff has happened before I bought
the truck (former owner didn't tell me about) because when I replaced the
head gasket, that bolt that is hidden under the oil near the timing chain
was missing. So, the previous owner must have had the head removed. He
told me that he did replace the oil seal/crank seal and alternator. The
wheel bearings on the front axle were also replaced at one time (they were
non-toyota bearings and the locking nuts had gouges in them due to a use
of a screw driver to remove them). The 4Runner I had before this was
reliable. It only let me down once when a value that controlled fluid to
the EFI shorted out causing my EFI to go down. It did cost me 4 days in a
motel while a Toyota dealership couldn't figure it out nor had the part
when they did. My brother had toyota (camry) that the timing belt let go.
It was promptly towed to a dealer and replaced. Engine was inspected but
30K miles later (114K), a piston collasped, most likely due to a value
causing a small fracture in the piston. Camry is still running today with
a rebuilt engine out in washington state with someone else as the ownwer.
I won't tell you what the most reliable car I have owned was. It is too
embarassing but it never let me down once.
I would suggest that you revise your opinion. The cars being built today
from all the manufacturers are outstanding.
Cheers,
Karl Bellve, Ph.D.
Biomedical Imaging Group
University of Massachusetts
WWW : http://molmed.ummed.edu/~kdb/
Email: kdb@molmed.ummed.edu
Phone: (508) 856-3785
Fax : (508) 856-1840
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 14:00:51 -0500
From: Ed Ruf Subject: Steven's Creek Toyota
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
At 09:19 AM 1/28/98 -0500, Dr. Karl Bellve illustriously expounded:>On Wed, 28 Jan 1998, Ed Ruf wrote:>>> I think this must be the number one qualification for the job. When I had>> the truly wonderful (sic) experience of owning a first year IROC-Z, I used>> to show up with literally several pages of typed complaints and notes about>> the problems that needed taking care of.
snip...snip>Needless to say that in 13 months this new>> car spent over 90 days in the shop. Just glad I won the lemon law>> arbitration and GM had to buy the car back, though at some loss to me. I'll>> never buy another GM product as long as I live.>>>> Ed>>IROC-Z came out in the mid 80s? I think alot of the american cars were>suspect up into the 80s. However, I wouldn't rule out a manufacturer>because of one car, especially one built in the mid 80s.
snip... snip>I would suggest that you revise your opinion. The cars being built today>from all the manufacturers are outstanding.
Actually it was the treatment from the SoCal regional office and the
snot-nosed representative they sent to the arbitration hearing the closed
the coffin lid as far as I'm concerned. I could put up with the poor
quality. I was aware of the rep of the Camaro going in. I didn't appreciate
being looked at like some idiot not knowing what I was talking about and
being told socalled nonsensical explanations for my problems.
Specifically the early 4 wheel disc F-cars had problems with the parking
brake system not mantaining it's seaparation from the main brake
hydraulics. Hit the brake pedal and you pumed fluid into the parking brake
system, resulting in a much lower pedal. Now I lived on top of the hill in
Palos Verdes at the time and the morning drive was down a 1500 ft hill with
a light at the Pacific Coast Hywy crossing at the bottom. Had the pedal go
to the floor several times. This idiot explained it to the arbitrator as
caused by high metallic content brake pads acting different when cold.
Unfortunately, she was not technically qualified and took my and their
arguments as equals. As a Mech Eng by school and trade I knew what hogwash
it was. This is only one example of the BS that spat out. Given enough to
pay off the car and buy my FJ1200 I took the money and ran.
As another point my sister had a similar deal with Mazda in NY. Had an RX-7
which would foul the plugs and not start after sitting for a week. Got
within 1 week or arbitration and they called my brother-in-law at work,
asked how much $$ they had in the car and offered total reimbursement,
which they took the next day.
This is why I'm glad to now see Toyota bellying up to the bar on the head
gasket issue. Probelms in design and manufacturing are part of life. As an
engineer I'm well aware of this, and have made many mistakes on my own and
will make more I'm sure. It's how you stand behind your product and how you
treat your customer. I lost ~$5K in that deal, how many times are you
willing to do that and be treated as an idiot?
Ed
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 08:38:34 +0000
From: Henry Brimmer Subject: Steven's Creek Toyota -- Clueless Mike
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
scott wilson wrote:> except for Mike...he's the service> writter I've been dealing with for the last 2.5 months. And don't get> me wrong...MIKE IS CLUELESS..just not about the discount
Clueless Mike sounds like a character to be developed... like "gombay"
in the landcruiser list... :)
henry brimmer
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 09:37:43 EST
From: mahealani@juno.com (michael M GERARD)
Subject: Toy4x4 Digest V1 #678
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org>Date: Tue, 27 Jan 1998 18:07:45 -0500>From: Ed.Wong@astramerck.com>Subject: 85 4runner back window>To: mpc_7@yahoo.com, Toy4x4@tlca.org>>Michael asked:>>>>Anyway has anybody dealt with replacing the track(s) for the rear>window ?>I went to put down the window and I look back to see half the window>hanging down sideways. Further investigation revealed that the right>track has rusted into non-existance.>In the shop manual I see two tracks that attach to the window, are>these replaceable ?>Is it a easy job ?>EWong
I also have a 85 4runner and my rear window has a problem. From
inside the truck I am unable to roll the window down when the window is
fully closed. I have to go outside and open the window then I can
control the window from the inside. But once the window is fully closed
again I am unable to open it up from inside. I pulled the back cover off
but couldn't find any loose wires or what not. Any one who can help I
appreciate it.
I saw in the local newspaper that someone is selling their 88 4Runner
for $4000 because it has engine problems(probably the HG). Boy I wish I
had some $$$$
I still can't figure out where the clunking noise is coming from on my
wifes 94 4Runner(somewhere in the front driver side)
Mike
85 4Runner-Mine
94 4Runner-Hers
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 11:45:11 -0800
From: Scott Muir Subject: toyota trecker
To: "Toy4x4@tlca.org" jamie sather wrote wrote:>Just a quick note to ask if anyone would be interested in a Toyota Trecker>or parts of it ??? I have a wrecked one I`m getting rid off . Email me direct
Where it is?
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 15:53:39 -0600
From: breeze@cysource.com (Jeffrey Delzer)
Subject: Truck Hill -almost- claims another
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Scott Wilson wrote:>>> It was the + cable. The lousy techs at Steven's Creek Toyota didn't> screw it down tight. I found the loose wing nut today.
Glad to hear it didn't turn out to be a short! A short in that area can
cause big damage, but an open is more of an annoyance. Glad you found &
fixed it.
Jeff Delzer
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 09:14:38 -0600
From: Clif Moyers Subject: u-joints
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
The Toyota Manual describes different thickness clips to be used during
u-joint replacement. The ones I got from NAPA had one set of clips
which left a little (maybe .010") slop.
Ideas?
Clif
- -----------------------
++++++++++ To Reply Remove 0 (zero) from Address +++++++++++
Clif Moyers
(cmoyers@mickey0.cti-pet.com)>Date: Tue, 27 Jan 1998 20:58:00 -0600>From: John Schultz >Subject: u-joints>To: Toy4x4@tlca.org>>Eric Johnson wrote:>>> whats the shade-tree method of removing u-joints? I've got a loose one, and>> a new one ready to go in, but the manuals I have say i need a special tool.>> I know there's a more 'bubba' way of doing this :)>> -->>>I hope that I can describe this adequately. I always carry an 8 inch C Clamp>for U-Joints. I use a small socket to press on one cap and a large socket for>that the other cap fits into so it has a place to go.>Boy that sucks, let me try again......>I put a small socket (smaller than the hole) against one cap and a large socket>(larger than the hole) over the other cap. I then clamp a large c-clamp over>this whole schmeel (technical term??) and torque it down. It presses the joint>right out of the yoke.>>E-mail me if no one comes up with a better explanation. I can usually write>but this one has me finger tied.>>>John
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 05:37:06 -1000 (HST)
From: Eric Johnson Subject: u-joints
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
On Wed, 28 Jan 1998, Clif Moyers wrote:> The Toyota Manual describes different thickness clips to be used during> u-joint replacement. The ones I got from NAPA had one set of clips> which left a little (maybe .010") slop.
It never even occurred to me that the the clips could be of different
thicknesses. Mine was a napa unit (heavy duty, #285 i think) and it had
way more clips than i needed. I hope i used the right ones! I think there
was 7 total - the 3 remaining are all .093" thick.
ej@off-road.com http://www.off-road.com/~ej>> Ideas?>> Clif> -----------------------> ++++++++++ To Reply Remove 0 (zero) from Address +++++++++++> Clif Moyers> (cmoyers@mickey0.cti-pet.com)>>>>Date: Tue, 27 Jan 1998 20:58:00 -0600>>From: John Schultz >>Subject: u-joints>>To: Toy4x4@tlca.org>>>>Eric Johnson wrote:>>>>> whats the shade-tree method of removing u-joints? I've got a loose one, and>>> a new one ready to go in, but the manuals I have say i need a special tool.>>> I know there's a more 'bubba' way of doing this :)>>> -->>>>>>I hope that I can describe this adequately. I always carry an 8 inch C Clamp>>for U-Joints. I use a small socket to press on one cap and a large socket for>>that the other cap fits into so it has a place to go.>>>Boy that sucks, let me try again......>>>I put a small socket (smaller than the hole) against one cap and a large socket>>(larger than the hole) over the other cap. I then clamp a large c-clamp over>>this whole schmeel (technical term??) and torque it down. It presses the joint>>right out of the yoke.>>>>E-mail me if no one comes up with a better explanation. I can usually write>>but this one has me finger tied.>>>>>>John> ------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 07:51:07 -0800
From: Dan Merrick Subject: U-joints
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
The easiest way to install u-joints is with a hydraulic press. You would be
surprised at how inexpensive they are from cheap tool suppliers. I got mine
from Harbor Freight...mail order, free shipping. It makes any kind of
bearing installation a breeze.
Otherwise, use a large vise and various size sockets to press the old parts
out and the new ones in. It can be helpful to tap(very gently)the area on
the flange or driveshaft(half-circle shaped area) that surrounds the
u-joint caps. This area may undergo extreme tension or compression as you
press fit the caps in place. The tapping action helps relieve some of the
stresses and aids in aligning the cap to the flange(or driveshaft). Use a
smooth faced hammer!!! The key word is "gently"...>whats the shade-tree method of removing u-joints? I've got a loose one, and>a new one ready to go in, but the manuals I have say i need a special tool.>I know there's a more 'bubba' way of doing this :)
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 98 12:58:00 -0500
From: Rosenberger Bud Subject: u-joints
To: "mail@UUCP {Toy4x4@tlca.org}" Eric Johnson wrote about his u joint replacement:>>Much easier to get to,>but I hope I don't shear it off on the trail. Is there a flush-mount
plug>available? maybe something with a hex-head?
I believe that they are a metric pipe thread (6mm) and yes they do make
steel hex socket plugs for them. If they are standard pipe thread they
are even easier to find. You can get them at some well stocked auto
parts places or an industrial pipe fitting place.
Perhaps you could also use those plastic caps that they put in grease
fitting holes from the factory on some cars. You know, the ones that
everyone has to throw away the first time you want to grease something!
Bud
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 10:22:14 -0500
From: Ed.Wong@astramerck.com
Subject: u-joints & long story
To: toy4x4@tlca.org
Bear with me - there's a comical story in here somewhere...
I personally never had access to a vise big enough to do the
"press it off" trick". I have done 3 U-joints on my Yota via the
beat it to death method. I hope I haven't damaged anything
on the yokes :(
Well - I now have a very customized 19mm Craftsman socket
and a 17mm Husky impact socket (similar outside diameters)
sitting in the toolbox in the truck. A 4lb sledge makes short
work of the pounding part as well.
The problem is that as you pound one cap in (to get the other
cap out), there isn't enough clearance to get the other cap
all the way out. In order to get the other cap off - you have to
"crack/shatter" the edges of the two caps that run 90 degrees
to the cap you are removing. This takes time and brute force :(
A "fork" shaped tool that could press on the cross yoke rather
than pressing on the yoke via the end cap would seem to make
this whole affair much easier.
(story)
The Upper U joint was going on my rear driveshaft. I needed to
get to work and stuff, and I couldn't make it back to my parents
garage that weekend because - well, it was really loose. The
last time I tried a long distance drive with a bad U-joint - well
the diff wasn't too happy. (actually, the diff was already unhappy,
but continual shimming kept it alive for another 130K- go Yota!)
Because of the people on the TLCA list, I had a SPICER version
of the Yota Ujoint in the spare parts box in the back of the truck.
It sure looked nicer than the $9 Pep Boys special that I had in the
lower U-joint (its all that was open at that time). Cost more too :(
This time I was prepared - I had a 4lb sledge. I had the 17mm Impact
socket (no chrome to splinter off and slice my finger tips). But I
didn't have anything to pound on (I rent a small guest house in
the "country").
So, I went rummaging through the lady's tool shed (she lets me
borrow some of the weird/wonderful/ancient/rusty tools that are in
there - she doesn't even know what half that stuff is. In return she
borrows CDs from my collection - usually the classical stuff).
Buried in the corner is a large tree trunk section and an ancient
anvil bolted/nailed to the top. Wow!
After clearing a path through the assorted flotsam, I rolled the stump/
anvil (along with a saw horse) out into the gravel driveway. Now this
was cool. No more bending down to pound on the shaft on the ground!
I could work standing, with the shaft at waist level.
The anvil was ancient and rather rusty looking. So just to see
the condition of the surface rust, I figured I'd knock some of the
scale off with the sledge. After a dozen wacks - some aided
with a chisel - nothing. After some head scratching, it occurred
to me that this was no "decorator" anvil - it was probably used
to make horse shoes on. (I live in the "chi-chi" section in the
far NorthWest of Philly - it IS horse country) Therefore, that
"scale" was probably work hardened and embedded with
silicon - this was a "real" item.
So there I am - 10pm in the dark, with a headlamp on, standing
in the chill fall air in the middle of the driveway, wailing away
at the Ujoint on a drive shaft, when the landlady comes home.
She Deerlights me in mid swing, and then rolls down the window.
"Is that my grandfathers anvil?"
"Yeah - I got it out of the shed"
"Oh dear - you'd better not damage it!"
"Yes ma'am - I'll be careful!"
(wait for her to go inside the house... continue to beat
the snot outta the U-joint)
EWong
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 16:06:24 -0600
From: breeze@cysource.com (Jeffrey Delzer)
Subject: vented disk swap: better stops?
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Darren Floen wrote:>> All the logging trucks i wrench on and drive will also experience severe> brake fade on long down hill slopes.The trick is to gear down well below> the top of the hill and progressivly upshift as you are going down using> the jake-brake for controlling speed.
This is probably off-topic for this list, but I've been wondering how a
jake brake works. Does it work off of engine compression somehow?
Jeff Delzer
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 13:19:30 -0600
From: "Gallus, Brian" To: "'toy4x4@tlca.org'" You wrote -
The 4WD indicator light on my instrument cluster does Not
work anymore for some strange reason, after installing New
carpet in my 1986 4Runner.
If I remember correctly (it's been over a year now), the 4wd inicator
light "switch" is on the transfer case lever. I had a lot of troubles
when I installed the body lift on my auto-4Runner with the indicator
light not coming on when the lever has engaged the t-case. Given the
fact that you just installed new carpet, I'd have to guess that
something didn't get hooked up correctly under the console. Pull the
plastic cover off of the shifter console and check the wires going to
the shift levers. If I'm correct, there is a single wire on the t-case
lever that isn't connected properly.
Hope that helps. If not, I'd be curius to know what the real problem
is.
bkg
- ---------------------------------------------------------------------
Brian Gallus 87 4Runner SR5
BrianGallus@DynaMark.com 33's, 4.88's, TrueTrac
Vadnais Heights, MN 3" Rancho, 2" body
Minnesota Toyx4's #95 / MN4WDA / TLCA #5581
http://www.off-road.com/~MNTOYX4
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------
The views expressed in Toy4x4 are those of the individual authors only.
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