Toy4x4 Digest          Wed, 28 Jan 98 00:30:01 (HST)  Volume 1 : Issue 678
 Today's Topics:
 22r rings and bearings
 3.0 H/G and some front end problems
 4WD indicator light on dash of '86  4Runner (2 msgs)
 85 4runner back window
 Anyone have this book (3 msgs)
 Chat?? (2 msgs)
 Clinometer
 Convertible Toy Truck
 Diesel Toyota Pickups
 Final word on exhuast
 funny thing seen in the 4runner forum of a web site
 Gas Light (2 msgs)
 Head gasket (2 msgs)
 Horn Relay (2 msgs)
 Humble Opinions needed (2 msgs)
 new HG/synthetics
 New Swampers
 Rear end vibration (high speed)
 Ssstttttuuuuutttttteeeeerrrrriiiinnnnnggggg Truck
 Steven's Creek Toyota (2 msgs)
 Tire prices
 Toy Clinometer (2 msgs)
 toyota trecker
 u-joints (6 msgs)
 Wiring (2 msgs)
 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
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 ----------------------------------------------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 27 Jan 1998 16:08:52 -0800 (PST)
 From: rtupman@uky.campus.mci.net
 Subject: 22r rings and bearings
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org
 My 81 SR5 22r longbed burns 1.5 quarts of oil per tank of gas. It has no
 leaks and Ok compression.  What kind of success should I have from a in
 frame replacement of the rings and rod bearings?  JC whitney sells a kit
 that includes gaskets rings and bearing for aprox $110, any thoughts?  I've
 already replaced the valve stem seals, should anything else be done during
 the minor rebuild?  Thanks to everyone on the list for all of the insight
 and helpful information.
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 27 Jan 1998 16:40:12 -0700
 From: "Jay Kopycinski"  Subject: 3.0 H/G and some front end problems
 To: Toyota 4x4 List  Todd Johansson  wrote:>  Next, my problem.  I have a '84 PU.  I have been getting a pretty bad>shimmy from the front end.  It only happens at around 45mph.  Anyhting>over that and it's gone.  I have also started noticing my steering getting>really sensitive.  At slow speeds you can crank the wheel and the truck>barely turns. But at freeway speeds, any little movment of the steering>wheel makes the truck want to do a u-turn.  All suspension is stock.  I am>planning on replacing the bicycle air pump Toyota calls a steering>stabilizer soon.  Can the steering box be adjusted?  I have not been able>to find the bolt/screw. Any help would be great. Thanks!
 Go ahead and replace the steering stabilizer, but it will not cure other
 problems you may have in the front end. Check the wheel bearing
 play and also check for excessive steering box play.
 I assume you have crawled under and checked the tie rod and draglink
 ends for any play. If those are fine....check the box play. I usually like
 to watch the front movement while I stand outside the truck and wiggle
 the steering wheel back and forth. This is best done standing still ;-)
 If you seem to have excessive play, you can adjust the steering box.
 There is a worm adjustment screw and jam nut on the box. As I recall,
 it is on the top side of the box. I usually wiggle the steering shaft back
 and forth while I tighten the adjust screw. Once, I feel a slight tension
 in the movement, I back it back out a bit and tighten the jam nut.
 A sloppy (unadjusted) box will cause the truck to wander due to the
 play.
 You may also want to check for play in the knuckle bearings by jacking
 up the front and tugging on the tires to check for play.
 Since your suspension is stock, I'll assume your caster angle is ok.
 I would check toe-in though as it may not casue shimmy but could
 cause wander.
 Tire balance wouldn't affect the turning problem, but could cause the
 shimmy.
 Jay Kopycinski    '85 Toylet  (ROKTOY)
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 27 Jan 1998 23:38:03 -0800
 From: Dee Smith  Subject: 4WD indicator light on dash of '86  4Runner
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org
 Greetings list members:
 The 4WD indicator light on my instrument cluster does Not
 work anymore for some strange reason, after installing New
 carpet in my 1986 4Runner.
 Yes, I pulled the inst. cluster and checked the lamp w/a Ohm
 meter. It checks good. I also cleaned the contacts but still
 no light illumination when in 4WD.
 My rig is the 22R EFI w/ "Automatic transmission" all "Stock"
 everything if this makes any difference.
 I checked and made sure that all the connectors were making
 contact, they are. Still no 4WD indicator lighting up.
 Oh BTW, yes, the 4WD is engaging when I "lock" the front hubs
 put in "Park or neutral" then shift the transfer into 4 Hi or
 4 Lo
 What gives?
 Please "clue me in" Thanks in advance for any hints.
 Regards,
 Dee Smith
 Huntsville, Alabama       1986 4Runner, 22R EFI, "automatic"
 "bone stock" w/ 239,500 orig. mi. and goin' strong!
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 27 Jan 1998 22:21:55 -0800
 From: "Craig Blanchette"  Subject: 4WD indicator light on dash of '86  4Runner
 To:  On the older toys, the light indicator switch was located in the
 transfercase. A couple of wires then went into the truck and up to the dash
 cluster. Possibly the wires under the truck were damaged.
 - -----Original Message-----
 From: Dee Smith  To: Toy4x4@tlca.org  Date: Tuesday, January 27, 1998 10:11 PM
 Subject: 4WD indicator light on dash of '86 4Runner>Greetings list members:>>The 4WD indicator light on my instrument cluster does Not>work anymore for some strange reason, after installing New>carpet in my 1986 4Runner.>>Yes, I pulled the inst. cluster and checked the lamp w/a Ohm>meter. It checks good. I also cleaned the contacts but still>no light illumination when in 4WD.>>My rig is the 22R EFI w/ "Automatic transmission" all "Stock">everything if this makes any difference.>>I checked and made sure that all the connectors were making>contact, they are. Still no 4WD indicator lighting up.>>Oh BTW, yes, the 4WD is engaging when I "lock" the front hubs>put in "Park or neutral" then shift the transfer into 4 Hi or>4 Lo>What gives?>Please "clue me in" Thanks in advance for any hints.>>Regards,>>Dee Smith>Huntsville, Alabama       1986 4Runner, 22R EFI, "automatic">            "bone stock" w/ 239,500 orig. mi. and goin' strong!
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 27 Jan 1998 18:07:45 -0500
 From: Ed.Wong@astramerck.com
 Subject: 85 4runner back window
 To: mpc_7@yahoo.com, Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Michael asked:>> Anyway has anybody dealt with replacing the track(s) for the rear
 window ?
 I went to put down the window and I look back to see half the window
 hanging down sideways. Further investigation revealed that the right
 track has rusted into non-existance.
 In the shop manual I see two tracks that attach to the window,  are
 these replaceable ?
 Is it a easy job ?
< Subject: Anyone have this book
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Spend your money on the factory manual, that manual is good if you don't have
 much experience but for too many of the jobs it just says "take your truck to a
 qualified mechanic."
 Eric Johnson wrote:> Does anyone have the book "How to Keep Your Toyota Pickup Alive : Step by> Step Procedures for the Compleat Idiot for 1975-1987/2 & 4 Wd" by Larry> Owens? I'm thinking of picking it up, but wanted to hear from other readers> first.> --> - ej@blarg.net
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 27 Jan 1998 13:10:05 -1000 (HST)
 From: Eric Johnson  Subject: Anyone have this book
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 On Wed, 28 Jan 1998, Brandon Miller wrote:> Spend your money on the factory manual, that manual is good if you don't have> much experience but for too many of the jobs it just says "take your truck to a> qualified mechanic."
 Ok, that seems to be the consensus. I do already have a factory manual,
 and Moses Ludel's book, and an aftermarket manual or two, I was just
 wondering if there's anything new in this book. Sounds like there isn't.
 I agree that the factory manual is worth every penny, even if its just for
 the complete and accurate wiring diagrams and torque specs.
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 01:08:48 -0800
 From: Brandon Miller  Subject: Anyone have this book
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 It aint all bad, gotta admit the guy has some suggestions for jobs that work great
 and you won't find in a regular manual.  Pick a section and read through it if
 somewhere near you carries it.  I was just saying that I wouldn't rely on it,
 sometimes I need more info- it really isn't as bad as it seems.
 Eric Johnson wrote:> On Wed, 28 Jan 1998, Brandon Miller wrote:>>> Spend your money on the factory manual, that manual is good if you don't have>> much experience but for too many of the jobs it just says "take your truck to a>> qualified mechanic.">> Ok, that seems to be the consensus. I do already have a factory manual,> and Moses Ludel's book, and an aftermarket manual or two, I was just> wondering if there's anything new in this book. Sounds like there isn't.>> I agree that the factory manual is worth every penny, even if its just for> the complete and accurate wiring diagrams and torque specs.
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 27 Jan 1998 21:21:28 -0600
 From: John Schultz  Subject: Chat??
 To: "Toy4x4@tlca.org"  Have any of the web page owners out there ever thought about putting one
 of those Internet based chat applets on your page?  I don't have a page
 but, it would be cool to chat real time with people who are online at
 the same time.  Another way is to use ICQ.  My UIN # is 563593.
 I don't think it would defeat the purpose of the list, just enhance it.
 John Schultz
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 01:12:39 -0800
 From: Brandon Miller  Subject: Chat??
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 I have one, anyone is free to use it.  I know of atleast three other places
 that also have em if anyone is interested...
 http://gaia.ecs.csus.edu/~millerb/4x.html
 John Schultz wrote:> Have any of the web page owners out there ever thought about putting one> of those Internet based chat applets on your page?  I don't have a page> but, it would be cool to chat real time with people who are online at> the same time.  Another way is to use ICQ.  My UIN # is 563593.>> I don't think it would defeat the purpose of the list, just enhance it.>> John Schultz
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 27 Jan 1998 17:19:50 -0800
 From: "Allen Jensen"  Subject: Clinometer
 To:  I have the one in question. It works really well. It has a light inside that
 you can wire to your dash lights. It also does not jitter back and forth too
 bad.
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 27 Jan 1998 22:17:57 -0500
 From: Sheldon Gardner  Subject: Convertible Toy Truck
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Hey yall, I can't remember who it was on the list, I got so many inquires about the convertible Toy Truck on my web page. He bought the conversion in a kit form. I finally got the guys e-mail so if ya want to find out more about it e-mail me.
 Sheldon
 sgard@flnet.com
 http://www.flnet.com/~sgard/
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 27 Jan 1998 15:47:05 -0800
 From: Wai Liu  Subject: Diesel Toyota Pickups
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 All,
 I know that Diesel Toy pickups were imported into Canada in the late
 80's but beyond that I'm not too familiar with them. I come across them
 periodically in my regular perusals of classifieds and Truck Traders.
 How common are they? Do they have the same reputation for reliability at
 their Land Cruiser relatives? If anyone has one I would like to hear
 about your experiences with it...reliability, off-roadability, economy,
 repairability etc.
 Thanks,
 Wai C. Liu
 LC's: 1984 BJ42, 1987 HJ60, 1978 FJ45.
 Vancouver, British Columbia
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 27 Jan 1998 22:56:13 -0800 (PST)
 From: Jonathan Albrecht  Subject: Final word on exhuast
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org> My opinion would be to go with the Flowmaster 3-chamber on the 3.0L.> It makes for a nice, throaty sound.  My brother ran one on his without
 Are there different types of Flowmaster mufflers?  Like Dynomax has the
 ultra flow (looks like a borla--you can see light on the other side) and
 the super turbo (baffled).
 _______
 Jonathan Albrecht                      __.           /_/__|__\__
 albr9619@uidaho.edu                 __/__|\___       |_.--.__,--;
 http://www.uidaho.edu/~albr9619    :--.__|.--.|,---- ~'(__)'`(__)
 `'`'`''`'`'`''``'`'`'`'`''`'`'``'`
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 27 Jan 1998 17:07:41 -8 GMT
 From: "Leo G. Divinagracia III"  Subject: funny thing seen in the 4runner forum of a web site
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org> From: Eric Johnson >> I didn't read the whole thread - but isn't it just obvious that you take> the capacity of the tank, and when the light comes on, fill it up and> subtract the amount it took to fill? Some of the questions people post on> the various boards crack me up... "Sure, its on the owner's manual, but I> don't  want to take the cellophane off of it - I'd rather bother y'all" :)> that's what i wrote... 8-))  the ones i like to answer are the questions
 asking if they should get a 4wd.  i tell them to get a AWD minivan instead...
 yeah, there are the RTFM questions also, that gives me a good laugh at late
 nights...
 - -----------------------
 Leo G. Divinagracia III
 ldivinag@csuhayward.edu
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 27 Jan 1998 17:23:25 -0800
 From: David Fritzsche  Subject: Gas Light
 To: "Toy4x4@tlca.org" > Oddly enough in my truck the gas light coming on simply means that I'm going> to run out of gas and the truck will quit in less than 60 seconds ... sortof> a 'mission impossible' thing ...> Something is definitely wrong with your light. Every car and truck
 that I have owned that had a light meant I had two to three gallons
 left. Your light is like a why bother to waste the energy to turn it on.
 You probably have to drop the tank and replace the sender.
 David Fritzsche
 1990 V-6 Ex-Cab
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 27 Jan 1998 19:05:49 -0800 (PST)
 From: Luke P Miller  Subject: Gas Light
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 '85 SR5 4Runner: no low gas light. I've had that dash apart, driven it
 until I could put 15.12 gallons in the "15" gallon gas tank, and I know
 there is no light. Oh well, it's good exercise to walk to the gas station.
 Luke Miller
 '85 4Runner
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 27 Jan 1998 17:47:32 -0800
 From: "Rick Felde"  Subject: Head gasket
 To:  This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
 - ------=_NextPart_000_0027_01BD2B4B.A4CA39E0
 Content-Type: text/plain;
 charset="iso-8859-1"
 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
 After seeing the traffic here about failing head gaskets (old news to =
 most of you, sorry), I plan on contacting my local dealer to check his =
 version of the repair story.  I've heard there's also a wiring harness =
 that should be replaced while the engine is torn apart, something =
 that'll cost minimal extra $$ and prevent larger headaches and another =
 teardown later.  Can someone please enlighten me just a little, so I'll =
 know what to ask about when I go in there?  Something about an oxygen =
 sensor harness or -- ?
 Thanks!
 Felix
 - ------=_NextPart_000_0027_01BD2B4B.A4CA39E0
 Content-Type: text/html;
 charset="iso-8859-1"
 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
After seeing the traffic here about =
 failing head=20
 gaskets (old news to most of you, sorry), I plan on contacting my local =
 dealer=20
 to check his version of the repair story.  I've heard there's also =
 a wiring=20
 harness that should be replaced while the engine is torn apart, =
 something=20
 that'll cost minimal extra $$ and prevent larger headaches and another =
 teardown=20
 later.  Can someone please enlighten me just a little, so I'll know =
 what to=20
 ask about when I go in there?  Something about an oxygen sensor =
 harness or=20
 - -- ?
 
Thanks!
Felix
 - ------=_NextPart_000_0027_01BD2B4B.A4CA39E0--
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 27 Jan 1998 23:05:22 -0500
 From: Alexander Ney  Subject: Head Gasket
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 I have a '93 4Runner V6 with 52K and the head gasket hasn't been a
 problem...yet.  I read in a message that Toyota might be changing their
 policy soon.  Should I go ahead and try to get it replaced now, even though
 I haven't had any problems yet, or should I wait it out?  Any idea if
 Toyota is really going to change their policy and if so, when?
 Thanks - Alex
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 27 Jan 98 16:06:55 -0700
 From: "Brent M. Dombrowski"  Subject: Horn Relay
 To:  I've got a '97 Tacoma and I want to put an aftermarket horn in it.  Does
 anybody know where the relay for the horn is?  I would like to tap into
 the circuit before the relay (I'm assuming there is one someplace).
 bd
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 27 Jan 1998 17:17:43 -0600 (CST)
 From: "Bruce Burden"  Subject: Horn Relay
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org>> I've got a '97 Tacoma and I want to put an aftermarket horn in it.  Does> Make sure the aftermarket unit will fit first! There isn't a
 lot of room behind that grill, as I found out installing dual
 Hella units.>> anybody know where the relay for the horn is?  I would like to tap into> the circuit before the relay (I'm assuming there is one someplace).> I suspect it is inside, behind the dash. I base this on the
 fact that I could hear a 'click' when my original horn failed.
 Since the Hella horns came with a relay, I simply took power
 off of the battery, and ran the original wire into the relay.
 Bruce
 - --
 - -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 Bruce Burden            bruceb@isd.tandem.com         Tandem Computers Inc.
 512-432-8944            Network Verification          14231 Tandem Blvd.
 Auto answer(4 rings)                                  Austin, TX 78726
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 27 Jan 1998 15:12:38 -0700
 From: daves8@juno.com (DAVE SCHOENBERG)
 Subject: Humble Opinions needed
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 1)	I understand Monroe is very liberal on replacement.  Your
 shocks may have a lifetime warranty and Monroe will probably replace for
 free.  I was told this about my Monroe Gas Magnum LT's.
 2)	You can get a new aftermarket for much, much less than that.
 Not hard to bleed brakes, just takes a while.  Don't get brake fluid on
 your paint.
 Dave Schoenberg, Arvada, Colorado-----Who else gives advice like this???
 '81 Toy/'86 EFI engine/5-spd/xfer--an' I did it all myself, with NO
 Liquid Nails!!
 Brakes and heater both work exceedingly well, thank you.
 DaveS8@Juno.com
 On Tue, 27 Jan 1998 11:24:24 -0700 "Lang, David V."  writes:>1. Right rear gas shock is leaking. I currently have Monroe Magnum Plus
 Road sensors.......>2. Master Cylinder is leaking. Shop quote of 200.00 for replacement, not
 including labor. Does anyone know what a Toyota Master Cylinder costs?
 .................replace master cylinder and bleed brake system, what
 other things do I have to look for or do that they do not mention in the
 manual???
 _____________________________________________________________________
 You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
 Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
 Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 27 Jan 1998 22:48:38 -0800
 From: James Brink  Subject: Humble Opinions needed
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Lang, David V. wrote:>> 88 4Runner   130,000 miles>> Had truck in for water pump replacemet, shop gave me some other things> and quotes to fix. Looking for ideas, or suggestions from the list about> your experiences..> 2. Master Cylinder is leaking. Shop quote of 200.00 for replacement, not> including labor. Does anyone know what a Toyota Master Cylinder costs? I> would like to replace this myself also. I read the Cliton's manual, and> it seems pretty straight forward, but I know with alot of things in the> world, there is the between the lines reading. If I following the book,> and replace master cylinder and bleed brake system, what other things do> I have to look for or do that they do not mention in the manual???
 New OEM master cylinders for your vehicle run around the $170 mark.
 Pretty easy to replace. Bench bleed the master (off the vehicle) if you
 can prior to installation. This involves filling the reservior and
 cycling the piston to fill the master and expell air. There are kits
 available to simplify this operation that dump the fluid from the fluid
 ports back into the reservior.
 Once the master is mounted on the booster (two 12mm hex nuts), bleed it
 as you would the brake cylinders by cracking the fluid lines after
 pumping the pedal. You shouldn't need to bleed the rest of the system
 unless the pedal is still spongy.
 Try to use a flare nut or "line" wrench on the fittings for the master
 cylinder fluid lines. They are quite soft and the hex portions will
 round off if a regular wrench is used.
 - --
 Jim Brink, Toyota/ASE Certified Technician	1986 Std. Bed 4x4
 Manhattan Beach, CA				32x11.50/15 BFG M/Ts
 ToyTech@Off-Road.com
 ********************************************************************
 TLCA - Friends of the Mojave Road (FOMR) - CA4WDC
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 27 Jan 1998 23:15:21 -0800
 From: Jason Redman  Subject: new HG/synthetics
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 tambrose@cbm.canon.com wrote:>      I got a call from South Coast Toyota (Costa Mesa, CA) last night> about>      the headgasket recall.  They said they would replace the> headgasket>      and give me a rental car....all paid for.  They also mentioned> that>      the work would take about day and a half (about a 12 hour job).>>      I mentioned that I only had 72,000 miles and I had no problems> now.>      They said that Toyota is going to be changing the policy of> paying for>      everything (work, rental car, etc.) very soon and that I should> have>      it done now.>>      Does this sound right?>>      I saw Jim Brink's recent post about what else to have them do.  I> just>      had the water pump and thermostat replaced with the timing belt.> I>      will have them do the camshaft and crank seals and the timing> belt>      tensioner.>>      Also, I'm running Mobil 1.  Is it OK to run synthetic with the> brand>      new head gasket or should I run conventional oil for a while?>>      Thanks,>>      -tom
 I switched to Redline oil when I had my HG replaced at abou 29k.  No
 problems or leaks yet after 6k.
 BTW, I put Redline synthetics (10w30, MTF, 75w90) in the engine, tranny,
 diffs, and xfer case at 29k (hoping for better mileage and maybe even a
 performance boost), and I noticed no difference at all.  I hope it
 really is better for engine and gear wear, or else I did it all for
 nothing.
 Austin Marriage
 yeti@inetworld.net
 96 Tacoma XCab 4X4 V6, 4"Downey, 33"BFG M/T's
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 27 Jan 1998 20:05:05 -0700
 From: Tony Bartlett  Subject: New Swampers
 To: Toy4x4  Someone wanted to know Interco's (Super Swamper tires) phone number.
 It is 318-334-3814
 or at least the last time I called
 Ask for Warren Guidry (or maybe his son David)
 They will talk your ear off about tires if you want them to.
 They are very good to deal with
 I ordered my Thornbirds when I saw a 1/4 clay model of them in 4Wheel
 and Off Road before they came out.
 I had a set of the 4 ply Thornbirds sent to me the day they came off the
 line.
 Had them for over a year before I saw another set.
 Tony
 http://www.digitalpla.net/~offroader
 offroader@digitalpla.net
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 27 Jan 1998 16:42:30 -0700
 From: "Jay Kopycinski"  Subject: Rear end vibration (high speed)
 To: Toyota 4x4 List  Scott Rowin  wrote:> My '88 130k mi 4 Runner started having a slight vibration up at 75 MPH+>(mostly under power, not as bad w/o).  Wheels have been rebalanced twice ->I wanted a second opinion and found out the first time they installed a bit>too much weight.  I've recently replaced the u-joints due to the infamous>clunk - that's gone.  But now the vibration is worse.  I'm thinking of>doing these steps to get it back to smooth (testing after each to see if>there's a fix):
 Have you made any changes to the suspension or ride height?
 Jay Kopycinski    '85 Toylet   (ROKTOY)
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 27 Jan 1998 22:23:21 EST
 From: TXPakRat  Subject: Ssstttttuuuuutttttteeeeerrrrriiiinnnnnggggg Truck
 To: Ed.Wong@astramerck.com, Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Ed Wong wrote:
<<>>>I did not resurface the flywheel.
 IHMO - the description sounds like a slipping clutch.
 It may be that the flywheel is out of balance. More likely,
 the main seal on the engine or tranny or both is leaking oil
 on to the pressure plate.
 A relatively cheap fix (parts wise) but a real PITA labor
 wise.>> Ed,
 Thanks for the advise!!!
 I did not resurface the flywheel because of advise I got from a number of
 people.  I was getting no chatter from it prior to putting the new clutch in.
 In addition, there were no black marks or scoring on the surface.  I talked to
 two different independent shops, a mechanic at the local Toy Dealer, and the
 guy who helped me do the swap.  They all said that it was not necessary if
 there was no scoring, black marks, or chatter when I shifted.
 Oh, and I did replace the TO bearing when I did the clutch replacement.
 As far as the clutch slipping, I do know what that feels like.  That is what
 my clutch was doing prior to changing it.  If I popped the old clutch (like
 trying to take off fast into traffic) the truck would sit there for a second,
 take off slowly, and then I would get this awful burning smell (like ozone).
 If there is oil leaking onto the clutch, I would think that there would be
 similar symptoms.  I can actually pop the new clutch and squeal the tires
 (nice loud squeal and decent rubber tracks!!!).  I don't think I could do this
 with a slipping clutch!  In addition, it was stuttering (although much less)
 prior to the clutch change and there was no oil in the bell housing when we
 did the work.
 ******************
 JIM, CHRIS, or any other Toy Mechanic!!!   Any suggestions???
 Any help would be SINCERELY appreciated!!!
 p.s.  Thanks to all those who have replied so far.  I will check out a few of
 the suggestions.
 Bob
 "THE Texas Pack Rat"
 '90 4Runner SR5 V6 with more mods than I can list here!!!
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 27 Jan 1998 21:15:02 EST
 From: JC VR 4  Subject: Steven's Creek Toyota
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 What discount is usually given to members of the TLCA at Steven's Creek Toyota
 for Parts/Service?  I called today, but the guy did not really seem to know
 what was going on or if they even gave a discount.
 Thanks Joey
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 27 Jan 1998 18:58:08 -0800
 From: Scott Wilson  Subject: Steven's Creek Toyota
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 JC VR 4 wrote:>> What discount is usually given to members of the TLCA at Steven's Creek Toyota> for Parts/Service?  I called today, but the guy did not really seem to know> what was going on or if they even gave a discount.
 25% - I'm almost sure everyone of the parts guys currently knows about
 it.  The service guys are clueless...except for Mike...he's the service
 writter I've been dealing with for the last 2.5 months.  And don't get
 me wrong...MIKE IS CLUELESS..just not about the discount.
 Scott
 - --
 _____
 /_/_|_\__      Scott Wilson
 | _     _ :     Santa Clara, CA
 */_\---/_\'     http://www.off-road.com/~swilson
 (_)   (_)
 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 27 Jan 1998 22:52:27 EST
 From: DRM033  Subject: Tire prices
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 FYI...
 The local Super WalMart has Laredo M/T's for a good price and the tread looks
 pretty good.
 30x9.5's were $97
 32x11.5's for $105
 The tire counter was closed fror the night so I did not get any prices other
 than those sitting out.
 Gotta love WalMart....   I may get a spare set of tires, considering 33's
 should be around $110
 - ---------------------------------------------------------------------
 David Moore                       DRM033@aol.com
 90 Toyota Truck - 4" ProComp, 33" Swampers,
 4.88's, rear ARB, TJM bumper & Ramsey #8000
 TLCA #5662
 Traxx In Motion 4 Wheel Drive Club
 - ---------------------------------------------------------------------
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 27 Jan 1998 17:38:14 -0800
 From: "John M. Smith"  Subject: Toy Clinometer
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 let me deffinately re phrase that: does anyone have a TOYOTA clinometer
 for sale?
 ps I am not a JC Shitney fan
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 27 Jan 1998 21:01:50 -0600
 From: John Schultz  Subject: Toy Clinometer
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 I don't think he was offering his for sale, I just think he was describing
 the type and operating characteristics of the one that he happens to own.
 Maybe he bought it at JC and maybe he didn't.  I see them at the local auto
 parts stores all the time.
 John Schultz
 John M. Smith wrote:> let me deffinately re phrase that: does anyone have a TOYOTA clinometer> for sale?>> ps I am not a JC Shitney fan
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 27 Jan 1998 18:12:28 -0800
 From: "j. sather"  Subject: toyota trecker
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Just a quick note to ask if anyone would be interested in a Toyota Trecker
 or parts of it ??? I have a wrecked one I`m getting rid off . Email me direct
 lana & jamie sather
 cruiser4x4@coastnet.com
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 27 Jan 1998 18:00:14 -0800
 From: Eric Johnson  Subject: u-joints
 To: "'toy4x4@tlca.org'"  whats the shade-tree method of removing u-joints? I've got a loose one, and
 a new one ready to go in, but the manuals I have say i need a special tool.
 I know there's a more 'bubba' way of doing this :)
 - --
 - - ej@blarg.net
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 27 Jan 1998 20:58:00 -0600
 From: John Schultz  Subject: u-joints
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Eric Johnson wrote:> whats the shade-tree method of removing u-joints? I've got a loose one, and> a new one ready to go in, but the manuals I have say i need a special tool.> I know there's a more 'bubba' way of doing this :)> --> I hope that I can describe this adequately.  I always carry an 8 inch C Clamp
 for U-Joints.  I use a small socket to press on one cap and a large socket for
 that the other cap fits into so it has a place to go.
 Boy that sucks, let me try again......
 I put a small socket (smaller than the hole) against one cap and a large socket
 (larger than the hole) over the other cap.  I then clamp a large c-clamp over
 this whole schmeel (technical term??) and torque it down.  It presses the joint
 right out of the yoke.
 E-mail me if no one comes up with a better explanation.  I can usually write
 but this one has me finger tied.
 John
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 27 Jan 1998 19:18:42 -1000 (HST)
 From: Eric Johnson  Subject: u-joints
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 On Tue, 27 Jan 1998, John Schultz wrote:> Eric Johnson wrote:>>> whats the shade-tree method of removing u-joints? I've got a loose one, and>> a new one ready to go in, but the manuals I have say i need a special tool.>> I know there's a more 'bubba' way of doing this :)>> I put a small socket (smaller than the hole) against one cap and a large socket> (larger than the hole) over the other cap.  I then clamp a large c-clamp over> this whole schmeel (technical term??) and torque it down.  It presses the joint> right out of the yoke.> I figured it out - mine was the original, and was getting a little play in
 it. I finally dropped it in a vice, stuck a socket on one end, and beat on
 it till it popped out on the other side, then I grabbed the side that was
 popped out with the vise, and tapped the yoke away from it. lather rinse
 repeat...
 Its a good thing i changed it out - one of the caps was almost bone dry
 and was obviously the one giving me problems, while the other 3 still had
 lots of fresh grease in there. I noticed the play when swapping 3rd
 members on my recent diff project. Maybe its my imagination, but I am
 feeling much less backlash in the drivetrain now. I found a U-joint at
 NAPA that hass the grease fitting on an end cap. Much easier to get to,
 but I hope I don't shear it off on the trail. Is there a flush-mount plug
 available? maybe something with a hex-head? I'd like this joint to last
 155,000 miles like the last one :)
 This was by far the easiest project I've done in a while. I sure don't
 wanna wrestle a front IFS diff in again any time soon.
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 00:32:01 EST
 From: DRM033  Subject: u-joints
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 In a message dated 98-01-28 00:25:05 EST, you write:>  Is there a flush-mount plug>  available? maybe something with a hex-head? I'd like this joint to last>  155,000 miles like the last one :)
 I had the same problem with the last rear U joint I changed - one bone dry cap
 and the rest were fine.  I think this is a design flaw in that the grease
 takes the path of least resistance, and the cap that may be too tight is
 starved.  The only way I see around this is to make sure you grease the joint
 before it is in, and that there is grease to all four caps.
 By the way, If you get a rock close enough to the joint to pop the fitting on
 the end of a cap off, you will probably have worse problems than a sheared
 fitting...
 - ---------------------------------------------------------------------
 David Moore                       DRM033@aol.com
 90 Toyota Truck - 4" ProComp, 33" Swampers,
 4.88's, rear ARB, TJM bumper & Ramsey #8000
 TLCA #5662
 Traxx In Motion 4 Wheel Drive Club
 - ---------------------------------------------------------------------
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 27 Jan 1998 21:50:45 -0800
 From: James Brink  Subject: u-joints
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Eric Johnson wrote:>> whats the shade-tree method of removing u-joints? I've got a loose one, and> a new one ready to go in, but the manuals I have say i need a special tool.> I know there's a more 'bubba' way of doing this :)
 An old connecting rod wrist pin from a 22R makes a great pounding tool.
 Works a lot better than Snap-On sockets (we're talking really desperate
 here) IMHO.
 - --
 Jim Brink, Toyota/ASE Certified Technician	1986 Std. Bed 4x4
 Manhattan Beach, CA				32x11.50/15 BFG M/Ts
 ToyTech@Off-Road.com
 ********************************************************************
 TLCA - Friends of the Mojave Road (FOMR) - CA4WDC
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 01:10:11 -0800
 From: Brandon Miller  Subject: u-joints
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Put a socket bigger than the u-joint on one side of the driveshaft and one
 smaller than the u-joint on the other side and squeeze it in a vice or bang
 away- works for me
 Eric Johnson wrote:> whats the shade-tree method of removing u-joints? I've got a loose one, and> a new one ready to go in, but the manuals I have say i need a special tool.> I know there's a more 'bubba' way of doing this :)> -->> - ej@blarg.net
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 27 Jan 1998 20:24:41 -0700
 From: Tony Bartlett  Subject: Wiring
 To: Toy4x4  Eli Madden wrote about information for a brake light/blinker problem.
 You might check and make sure you have the correct bulbs in the correct
 places.
 It amazes me when someone comes in with a tail light problem and somehow
 they have a single filiment bulb screwed into a dual filiment bulb
 socket
 Also, if you have trailer wiring hooked up you might want to disconnect
 that before starting any checks
 Tony
 http://www.digitalpla.net/~offroader
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 00:24:37 -0800
 From: "Craig Blanchette"  Subject: Wiring
 To:  There might be a simple answer to your problem. I lost the ground wire for
 the rear tail lights. Everything back there went nuts, hit the brakes and
 all lights came on, turn signals blinked half the lights, you get the idea.
 I traced the problem to the common ground for the rear tail light asemblies.
 When I fixed that all the lights worked fine again.
 - -----Original Message-----
 From: Tony Bartlett  To: Toy4x4@tlca.org  Date: Tuesday, January 27, 1998 10:28 PM
 Subject: Wiring>Eli Madden wrote about information for a brake light/blinker problem.>You might check and make sure you have the correct bulbs in the correct>places.>It amazes me when someone comes in with a tail light problem and somehow>they have a single filiment bulb screwed into a dual filiment bulb>socket>Also, if you have trailer wiring hooked up you might want to disconnect>that before starting any checks>Tony>http://www.digitalpla.net/~offroader
 ------------------------------
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