Toy4x4 Digest          Mon, 26 Jan 98 12:30:01 (HST)  Volume 1 : Issue 675
 Today's Topics:
 Alternator Update
 Bio
 control arm bushings
 Elec Bananas
 Final word on exhuast (2 msgs)
 Ford shock mounts
 front spring question
 Gearing (6 msgs)
 hard starting 3.0l v6
 Lockers on Ice, experience (2 msgs)
 MILAGE
 MILEAGE
 Need advice on lifting '85 4Runner to clear 35" BFGs
 Old cruiser/ '88 Runner
 Personal Bio Info
 Question on Wood Beds
 Ranch Add-a-Leaf for sale
 San Antonio
 Speedometer adjustment revisited
 Ssstttttuuuuutttttteeeeerrrrriiiinnnnnggggg Truck
 STOCK AIR BOX
 Toy4x4 Digest V1 #674
 Truck Hill -almost- claims another
 V6 or V8 in an '80 Toy
 vented disk swap: better stops?
 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
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 ----------------------------------------------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 15:18:16 -0500
 From: Mojo  Subject: Alternator Update
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org> Interesting experience with my alternator(s) recently.>> I had posted that I replaced it with a unit from NAPA ($75). I also> noticed that the in-dash voltmeter was nearly pegged to the '18'.> I didn't recall if it did that before  someone on the list mentioned> that theirs did that too, so I didn't worry about it .> After a week, the new alternator quit !!.  Disgusted with aftermarket, I took> my 4runner to a Toyota dealer without even looking at it, since I was> about to go wheeling the next day (Winter Fun Fest in Grass Valley)> I didn't have time to dick around with it. They replaced the failed NAPA> unit with one of theirs ($120 plus labor). I wanted professionals to> 'do-it-right' so I wouldn't have to worry about it on the trail.> It still showed 18 volts on the meter, and I resolved to check that> out when I got back from my wheeling trip.>> Driving to the trailhead, I smell 'rotten-egg' odors.  I assume its my> fairly new , aftermarket Catalytic converter.  While waiting for others> to show up at the trailhead, and listening to the radio for about 90 minutes,> my battery drains.  I needed a jump start.   No problem.  A few miles down> the trail, a better-mechanic-than-I  (and there are lots of them around)> smells the odor, and suggest I check my battery.  Sure enuf, its bone dry.> We top it off with water.  (Found out later my alternator is putting out over> 22 volts, and boiling the sulfuric acid in the battery, creating the smell).> Its still driveable, but I worry about other electrical components being> fried for the rest of the weekend.>> I take it back to the dealer, since the work is under warranty, to have them> check> things out, suspecting the IC regulator.   They say its unlikely to be the> regulator, since 'they never go out'.   They check it out, and sure enough> its a bad regulator.   They want $160 plus labor, and it would have to be> ordered.>> I said never mind, and got one an hour later at a wreckers (Toyautomart> in Rancho Cordova) for $20.  Now its putting out a much-more-normal 15 volts.> I replaced the battery since it was 3-years old anyway.>> Moral :  check your battery fluid and voltage (while the engine is running)>          more often.> ##################################################################> Rick Murray                                22R motor ; 3-inch lift> 84 Toyota 4Runner SR5                    33" BFG M/Ts ; 4.88 gears> Rancho Cordova, Ca.                   Rancho 9000's ; on-board air>  http://www.jps.net/rick99/             Marlin TCase #67 ; TRD LSD> ##################################################################
 Did you take the Napa unit back for a refund???? Who's to say that it wasn't defective and caused the regulator to take a
 dump? I have bought Napa units and have had no problem. I go through an Alt about every six months cus of all the water I
 go through.  I resigned myself to getting a discount auto part unit.(not the best quality item) They warranty for lifetime
 no matter what, so far I'm on my fourth. heck if they wanna guarantee it I'll take em up.:)
 Sheldon
 sgard@flnet.com
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 15:59:16 EST
 From: spoonee@juno.com (Mark B McColl)
 Subject: Bio
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org
 On Sat, 24 Jan 1998 13:08:20 -1000
 Toy4x4-Request writes:>Personal Bio Info>>POST TO THE LIST ONLY>> toy4x4@tlca.org>+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++>>Name:Mark B McColl>>City & State:St Louis, MO>>Country:USA>>E-mail address:spoonee@juno.com>>Toyota (s) year & model: '87 4Runner>>Are you a TLCA Member (Y/N/Number?):n>>Age:23>>Occupation: Student of Theology>>Marital Status:single>>Hobbies:medicine, philosophy, my truck>>How did you find out about the Toyota 4x4 Mailing List:the web>>General info about your vehicle, self, etc.:>> _____________________________________________________________________
 You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
 Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
 Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 11:10:01 -0800
 From: Kenneth Fong  Subject: control arm bushings
 To: DRM033@aol.com, Toyota 4x4 List  This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
 - --------------40A79CF3FCDEB2BF9ADC04BE
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
 Suspension Restoration Parts gives 20% off list on
 all bushings.
 http://www.suspension.com
 I have had my sets from 4WPW sitting in my garage
 for almost a year now.
 My mechanic says they are pretty time consuming to
 do so it won't be cheap.
 - --------------40A79CF3FCDEB2BF9ADC04BE
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 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
 Content-Description: Card for Kenneth Fong
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 fn:             Kenneth Fong
 n:              Fong;Kenneth
 org:            San Francisco State University
 email;internet: stealth@sfsu.edu
 tel;work:       415-605-7276
 x-mozilla-cpt:  ;0
 x-mozilla-html: FALSE
 version:        2.1
 end:            vcard
 - --------------40A79CF3FCDEB2BF9ADC04BE--
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 15:33:51 -0500
 From: Mojo  Subject: Elec Bananas
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org> Date: Sat, 24 Jan 1998 09:13:21 -0500> From: Rick > Subject: electric bananas (chat), (long)> To: Toy4x4@tlca.org>> Frustrated and whining in NC.  After pulling and having my starter> rebuilt a few months ago, experiencing a return of the "click and whirr> - - no start" and defeating it with an Optima, the dreaded ghost is back.> My 88 4Runner does not want to start sometimes.  I am sure it is not the> starter as i can climb under with a wire with alligator clips on both> ends and get it to spin immediately.  Somewhere in the ignition, there> is a short that is preventing just enough juice from tripping the> armature all the way.  Replacing those "little copper bushings" only> fixed it temporarily. Usually, it will crank if I turn off all> electrical draws on the dash - radio, fan, etc...  Yesterday, i am> driving home after work and a buddy pulls up beside me to tell me that> instead of brake lights, one turn signal comes on when I slow down.> Because I am electrically challenged (I believe in the smoke theory of> automotive electrics), I will be forced to take my baby to an auto> electrician.  Whine mode off, any thoughts out there?
 Rick it's a long shot but have you done a body lift or installed new carpet in your truck recently???
 Reason I ask is a long time ago when I put on a body lift I accidentally  crimped  some wires between a washer and the
 floorboard. This made all kinds of weird things happen like the gas gauge would move all over, brake lights would blink and
 turn signals came on when I pressed the brakes. Any who I changed a water pump in my 92 Corsica the other day and did the
 same thing, pinched a wire this caused the high beams not to work took a while to fugure out but found it after looking a
 few min.
 Like I said it's a  long shot but who knows stranger things have happened?
 Sheldon
 sgard@flnet.com
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 09:29:27 -0500
 From: Ed.Wong@astramerck.com
 Subject: Final word on exhuast
 To: JOEMAMA135@aol.com, toy4x4@tlca.org
 Joe:>>> One other
 problem, I understand that the Dynomax has the least backpressure,  so does
 that mean the Flowmaster will actually make less power and more noise?
<< Subject: Final word on exhuast
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 My opinion would be to go with the Flowmaster 3-chamber on the 3.0L.  It
 makes for a nice, throaty sound.  My brother ran one on his without a
 catalytic converter and it was a little louder than absolutely
 desirable, but when he put the cat back on it was perfect.  The Dynomax
 is also a very nice muffler, a little cheaper, and gives more of a
 European tone to the exhaust.  I have one of these on my 240Z and like
 it a lot, but for that V8 sound, the Flow is the way to go.
 Michael (Yes, I did used to work at Flowmaster) Henry
 Forestville, CA
 henry@sonic.net
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 08:58:30 -0600
 From: Jack Alford  Subject: Ford shock mounts
 To:  Charles Brooks wrote:>Does anyone have a description of the ford shock mount>install on there page?
 Afraid I don't have any pics but I've got a set of the Ford mounts to
 sell you ...
 - jack
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 10:39:06 -0000
 From: runars@isbank.is
 Subject: front spring question
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org> Probably way more than you wanted to know...but oh well.....>> Comments always welcome :-)> [-->>  ]  Just you wait.....
 Runar> Jay Kopycinski     M-^Q85 Toylet  (ROKTOY)
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 05:27:52 -1000 (HST)
 From: Eric Johnson  Subject: Gearing
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 On Sun, 25 Jan 1998, Ken Emanuel wrote:> I was just checking the axle codes of my friend's '86 4Runner Automatic> Turbo at   http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota/4_axles.html.>> His VIN # reads G292 for the axle ratio.  This would mean that his truck> has a 2 pinion rear axle and 4.10 gears.  I thought that V6s and Turbos> had the 4 pinion rear axle.  I also thought 4 cylinder automatics had> 4.30 gears.  This can't be right.> Anyone have any ideas?
 I've seen lots of exceptions to the 'rule' of 4-pinion cases in turbos,
 gear ratios in autos, etc. Best way to tell for sure would be to pop out
 the rear third member. But '86 was the first year of the turbo - maybe
 they hadn't gotten the new diff developed by then?
 ej@off-road.com   http://www.off-road.com/~ej
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 09:30:09 -0600
 From: "Michael Rowe"  Subject: Gearing
 To:  My '88 4Runner V6 auto has the 2 pinion with 4.10 gears. It's manufacture
 date is march 1988.
 Michael Rowe
 - -----Original Message-----
 From: Eric Johnson  To: Toy4x4@tlca.org  Date: Monday, January 26, 1998 9:28 AM
 Subject: Re: Gearing>On Sun, 25 Jan 1998, Ken Emanuel wrote:>>> I was just checking the axle codes of my friend's '86 4Runner Automatic>> Turbo at   http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota/4_axles.html.>>>> His VIN # reads G292 for the axle ratio.  This would mean that his truck>> has a 2 pinion rear axle and 4.10 gears.  I thought that V6s and Turbos>> had the 4 pinion rear axle.  I also thought 4 cylinder automatics had>> 4.30 gears.  This can't be right.>> Anyone have any ideas?>>I've seen lots of exceptions to the 'rule' of 4-pinion cases in turbos,>gear ratios in autos, etc. Best way to tell for sure would be to pop out>the rear third member. But '86 was the first year of the turbo - maybe>they hadn't gotten the new diff developed by then?>>ej@off-road.com   http://www.off-road.com/~ej> ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 15:03:03 -0500
 From: Agustinus Gunawan  Subject: Gearing
 To: "'Toy4x4@tlca.org'"  My 87 turbo vin number also read G292.
 I haven't check the inside of the diff though.
 - -----Original Message-----
 From:	Ken Emanuel [SMTP:Emanuel@csus.edu]
 Sent:	Sunday, January 25, 1998 11:50 PM
 To:	Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Subject:	Gearing
 I was just checking the axle codes of my friend's '86 4Runner Automatic
 Turbo at   http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota/4_axles.html.
 His VIN # reads G292 for the axle ratio.  This would mean that his truck
 has a 2 pinion rear axle and 4.10 gears.  I thought that V6s and Turbos
 had the 4 pinion rear axle.  I also thought 4 cylinder automatics had
 4.30 gears.  This can't be right.
 Anyone have any ideas?
 *-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*
 Ken Emanuel                     Emanuel@csus.edu
 '87 Xtra Cab SR5    (22R-E)
 http://webpages.csus.edu/~sac75830/toystuff.htm
 *-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 12:50:42 -0700 (PDT)
 From: Ken Emanuel  Subject: Gearing
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Agustinus,
 Is your vehicle an automatic or manual?
 Also, is it a truck or 4Runner?
 I thought that since 4Runners are "lighter duty" than the trucks
 because of the lower payload and lower towing capacities, that
 the possibility exists that the turbo trucks have the 4 pinion
 axle while the turbo 4Runners have the 2 pinion.  Just a guess.> My 87 turbo vin number also read G292.> I haven't check the inside of the diff though.>> -----Original Message-----> I was just checking the axle codes of my friend's '86 4Runner Automatic> Turbo at   http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota/4_axles.html.>> His VIN # reads G292 for the axle ratio.  This would mean that his truck> has a 2 pinion rear axle and 4.10 gears.  I thought that V6s and Turbos> had the 4 pinion rear axle.  I also thought 4 cylinder automatics had> 4.30 gears.  This can't be right.> Anyone have any ideas?
 *-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*
 Ken Emanuel                     Emanuel@csus.edu
 '87 Xtra Cab SR5    (22R-E)
 http://webpages.csus.edu/~sac75830/toystuff.htm
 *-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 12:57:11 -0700 (PDT)
 From: Ken Emanuel  Subject: Gearing
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 On Mon, 26 Jan 1998, Michael Rowe wrote:> My '88 4Runner V6 auto has the 2 pinion with 4.10 gears. It's manufacture> date is march 1988.> Does anyone else with a V6 have the G292 axle code?  It is located
 on the firewall on older models, and on the door jam on newer models.
 There's a method for this madness, if anyone cares to hear about it.
 *-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*
 Ken Emanuel                    Emanuel@csus.edu
 '87 Xtra Cab SR5               (22R-E)
 http://webpages.csus.edu/~sac75830/toystuff.htm
 *-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 15:02:27 -0600
 From: "Michael Rowe"  Subject: Gearing
 To: >>There's a method for this madness, if anyone cares to hear about it.>> *-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*> Ken Emanuel                    Emanuel@csus.edu
 what is it?
 MR
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 27 Jan 1998 08:09:19 +1000
 From: Peter Mould  Subject: hard starting 3.0l v6
 To:  Just got my truck back from having it's HG done, They also replaced the rings, bearings, shaved the block & heads.
 Now it has real trouble trying to start hot or cold has to crank over for 5-10 sec.
 Took it back to the Toyota dealer and they said "give it a 1000kms or so & it should be ok".
 To me that dose not sound right!! I would like to know what I should look for to try & fix the problem
 Many Thanks
 Peter Mould
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 10:57:43 -0000
 From: runars@isbank.is
 Subject: Lockers on Ice, experience
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 It's just a tiny little hydraulic ram (25 or 35mm thick), that replaces
 the damper.  It is fed with hydro from the steering machine, which means
 the machine has to be drilled in the right positions.  What it does is
 that its kind of gears down the power steering, that is, for every
 degree you turn the wheels, the power steering must pump more fluid.
 The drawback is that the steering has a max speed now, that is you can't
 now turn the steering faster than the pump can deliver fluid to the ram,
 but that is fast enough with small enough ram.  Pluses are that road
 bumps almost wanish, and the steering load goes straight to the tie-rod,
 instead of going only through the famus steering arm.  The steering also
 gets firmer, without getting heavy.
 Rulewise, this was like so many other things up here.  Some started
 using this, and others figured out that this was a great idea, and rules
 where made on how to make them and use, and such.
 These are must with 44" tires, and on axles with weak knuckles that
 can't take steering imput through them (on the knuckle steering arm
 convertions), like the open knuckle axles.
 Runar.> -----Original Message-----> From:	Craig Blanchette [SMTP:blanchet@cnx.net]> Sent:	Saturday, January 24, 1998 12:18 PM> To:	Toy4x4@tlca.org> Subject:	Re: Lockers on Ice, experience>> I was just wondering if you would explain your ram on your steering to> greater detail. It might be interesting to try if its legal in Canada.>> -----Original Message-----> From: runars@isbank.is > To: Toy4x4@tlca.org > Date: Friday, January 23, 1998 10:14 AM> Subject: Lockers on Ice, experience>>>>Talking about lockers...>>>>Finally I've been able to try my (new) truck on Icy roads.  It has a>>Detroit or something of that kind in the front axle, and I was very>>curius to find out how it would act on Ice.>>>>Firstly driving 2WD with the hubs locked has only a very slight> effect>>on the steering, but hardly noticanble.  (My truck however has a>>hydraulic ram instead of the damper so its steering is very> powerful).>>>>Driving in 4Hi.  I always expected huge amount of understeer, but non>>came.  The steering got firmer.  Doing sharp corners, is no problem.>>>>THE SURPRICE was when trying to drive straight....!  It is almost>>impossible....  Everytime I step on the gas or let go off it, the> truck>>jumps in either direction.  I blame it on the freeplay in the locker.>>Under most road condictions, it seem that only one tire is getting>>torque, or at least gets the torque a fraction of a turn earlier,>>causing big shock into the steering.  And since I'm driving straight>>both wheels are turning at the same speed and it can take the other> tire>>forever to get its torque deliverd.>>The 12" wide rims don't make life easier here....>>>>No, no driveshaft is broken, since this shock is not in one direction>>only.>>>>No, a steering damper would not improve things, as the steering ram>>works as well as few dampers to damp things (I got 38" tires and have>>never felt any road bumps up into the steering, Yes I've driven on> bumpy>>roads)>>>>I probably got a Detroit, but I've never heard it operate....  So> maby>>it is some other "unlocker" (like somebody calls the detroit kind of>>lockers..)>>>>Runar.>>>>> -----Original Message----->>> From: Eric Johnson [SMTP:ej@blarg.net]>>> Sent: Thursday, January 22, 1998 7:10 AM>>> To: Toy4x4@tlca.org>>> Subject: Diffs are in!>>>>>> I finally got both my diffs in! Wow, that front third member is a> bear>>> to>>> install. The rear takes 20 minutesl the front takes hours.>>>>>> I went from 4.30 to 4.88 gears and from open diffs to Truetracs> front>>> and>>> rear.>>>>>> Hopefully, I'll get a chance to test this weekend, I'll let you all>>> know>>> how they perform off-road. On road, with front hubs unlocked, its>>> virtually>>> invisible; maybe a TINY bit of understeer in tight corners. With> hubs>>> locked, I get a little bit of a pull...>>>>>> -->>>>>> - ej@blarg.net>>>>>> ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 11:01:33 -0000
 From: runars@isbank.is
 Subject: Lockers on Ice, experience
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org> Speaking of which, can anyone tell me what years and for what models> the>> electric locking diff. was available???  That's what I'm shooting for> at> the> moment.> [-->>  ]  It came on double cab diesels up here for many years (early
 90ties.)  Just the original 8" axle, but I'm not sure if the housing was
 diffrent in any way.  Anyway, I bet the ARB is cheaper, and stronger.
 Runar> Thanks,>   Scott.
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 07:24:26 -0500
 From: redline1@juno.com (Kurt m Steiger)
 Subject: MILAGE
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org>Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 13:27:57 -0700 (PDT)>From: Ken Emanuel >Subject: Milage>To: Toy4x4@tlca.org>>> Your MPG will go down with the larger tires. No body ever gets>better>> milage with larger tires.>>>  My gas mileage increased about 1 mpg in town and 4 mpg on the>highway after I went from the 225/75R15s to 31x10.5s.>I check my mileage everytime I fill up.  I attribute this to>the fact that the stock gearing is too low at fast highway>speeds, and the larger tires dropped my RPMs to the torque>peak (2800 RPMs) at 75MPH (where I usually drive.)>I now get 20 MPG city and 25-26 highway, and I'm a led foot!>>Ken Emanuel>'87 Xtra Cab SR5>>------------------------------> Not saying you don't get your claimed milage.  But i have a 92 extra w/
 22re and get 20mpg no matter where i drive.  I am interested in any mods
 you might have done to achive this milage.  My normal commute speed is
 never below 70mph ( you would get run over here in Atlanta if you travel
 any slower.)  The only time i get bad milage is when i pull a trailer.
 My truck is all stock except for a camper shell, any a set of 15x7
 aluminum wheels & 30X9.5 trail TA's.  Any suggestions to improve my
 milage is a great favor.
 Thanks in advance.
 _____________________________________________________________________
 You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
 Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
 Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 10:41:56 -0700 (PDT)
 From: Ken Emanuel  Subject: MILEAGE
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 On Wed, 14 Jan 1998, Kurt m Steiger wrote:> Not saying you don't get your claimed milage.  But i have a 92 extra w/> 22re and get 20mpg no matter where i drive.  I am interested in any mods> you might have done to achive this milage.  My normal commute speed is> never below 70mph ( you would get run over here in Atlanta if you travel> any slower.)  The only time i get bad milage is when i pull a trailer.> My truck is all stock except for a camper shell, any a set of 15x7> aluminum wheels & 30X9.5 trail TA's.  Any suggestions to improve my> milage is a great favor.> First question, are you taking into account the fact that your speedometer
 and odometer are off now because of the larger tires?  I have to add
 about 12 percent to what my odometer shows, then divide that by the
 number of gallons of gas I added to the tank.
 Another consideration is where you live.  I live in Sacramento, CA at
 about 300 ft. in elevation.  The ground is flat and the low
 elevation=high atmospheric pressure.
 My engine has no mods except for Bosch Platnum spark plugs, NGK wires,
 and a K&N air filter.  I have a campershell that may or may not make
 the truck more streamlined.
 One additional note, I have gotten 33 MPG TWICE now from slow moving
 trips in 4WD.  (Whether you want to believe that or not.)
 Ken Emanuel
 '87 Xtra Cab SR5-
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 13:56:58 -0800
 From: Jerald Josephs  Subject: Need advice on lifting '85 4Runner to clear 35" BFGs
 To: Toy4x4  Runar,
 I just do not want to cut the sheetmetal, if I can avoid it.
 I realize that I may have to do just that, but if I get a mechanical
 solution, I am going to go with that.
 I see a lot of great suggestions, thanks!
 So far, that which resonates with me are the suggestions which do
 limit the spring lift in order to preserve wheel travel, which is the
 2nd
 most important issue besides the 35s.
 Yes, the truck is getting re-geared.  It's gonna get 5.29s.
 It is also going to get lockers and the Marlin Ice-crawler.
 So far, it looks like 4" springs and 3" shackles.
 There has also been a suggestion to replace the spring (front) mounts
 with something closer to 4".  A friend as done this with success.
 I find the Mazda spring suggestion really interesting. I hadn't thought
 about springs designed for other vehicles!
 - --- jerald
 Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 12:22:55 -0000
 From: runars@isbank.is
 Subject: Need advice on lifting '85 4Runner to clear 35" BFGs
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Give me one reason why not to cut sheetmetal.
 Runar.> -----Original Message-----> From: Jerald Josephs [SMTP:jerald.josephs@ipsilon.com]> Sent: Thursday, January 22, 1998 8:28 AM> To:   Toy4x4@tlca.org> Subject:      Need advice on lifting '85 4Runner to clear 35" BFGs>> I think I have finally settled on the rubber and now I just need to> get the clearance.  I checked 4WPW's catalog and it appears that the> only set of leaf springs that are going to go above 4" are the> SuperLifts.>> I would like to avoid the use of a body lift and I definitely do not> want to cut any sheet metal.  The truck has some (Bushwacker?)> fender flares.>> Is this going to be possible, or am I dreaming?
 - --
 Jerald E. Josephs                         Nokia
 Customer Support Engineer                 232 Java Drive, Sunnyvale, CA
 94089-1318
 jerald.josephs@ipsilon.com                (408) 990-2000        fax
 (408) 743-5679
 phone (408) 990-2175                      http://www.ipsilon.com
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 10:01:03 -0500
 From: Ed.Wong@astramerck.com
 Subject: Old cruiser/ '88 Runner
 To: davekw@pobox.alaska.net, toy4x4@tlca.org
 David asks:> Without a lot of discussion, is there a non-clutch LS Diff that> fits/adapts_to the '88 'Runner?
 YES - TruTrac (its an all gear "torsen" type diff. Its not really a "limited slip", its
 a "torque proportioning" device.
 EWong
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 09:26:48 -0800
 From: millersc@ccmail.orst.edu (Scott Miller)
 Subject: Personal Bio Info
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org
 Personal Bio Info
 POST TO THE LIST ONLY>> toy4x4@tlca.org
 +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
 Name:Scott Miller
 City & State:Eugene, Oregon
 Country:USA
 E-mail address:millersc@ccmail.orst.edu
 Toyota (s) year & model:1988 Long-bed 4X4 P/U 4 cyl.
 Are you a TLCA Member (Y/N/Number?):No
 Age:29
 Occupation:Research Assistant, Oregon State University
 Marital Status:Single
 Hobbies:Fly-fishing, woodworking, my truck
 How did you find out about the Toyota 4x4 Mailing List:Surfing the net
 General info about your vehicle, self, etc.:
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 26 Jan 98 10:28:33 EST
 From: "Pete Karasz"  Subject: Question on Wood Beds
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org
 How simple is it to put a (nice looking) wood bed on a Toyota?  I just
 purchased a 82 4x4 with 99,000mi on it.  It is in great shape but the
 bed is just about ready to fall off the frame.
 Are there any kits you can purchase?
 Any info would be appreciated.
 PETE
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 26 Jan 98 08:54:00 -0800
 From: Mark Hansen  Subject: Ranch Add-a-Leaf for sale
 To: "Toyota 4x4 list"  After a spring change this weekend I have my Add-a-Leaf's for sale.  Used
 about 6 months, I'm asking $40.
 I'm in the Bay Area of California if you're interested.
 Mark H.
 '87 4Runner
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 10:11:05 -0600
 From: John Vargas  Subject: San Antonio
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Greg,
 Im curious as to where you went in SA?
 And how was it??
 John
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 08:16:20 -0800
 From: davidl@city.victoria.bc.ca
 Subject: Speedometer adjustment revisited
 About adjusting the speedometer needle.......
 1- Yes, I know that the odometer would still be off, it was the SPEED I
 wanted corrected.
 2- The "correct speed" I set the needle at was for highway speeds ( where
 I'm most likely to get tickets )
 3- I had a friend drive the truck, I repositioned the needle. ( thanks for
 your concern )
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 09:53:35 -0500
 From: Ed.Wong@astramerck.com
 Subject: Ssstttttuuuuutttttteeeeerrrrriiiinnnnnggggg Truck
 To: TXPakRat@aol.com, toy4x4@tlca.org>>>I did not resurface the flywheel.
 IHMO - the description sounds like a slipping clutch.
 It may be that the flywheel is out of balance. More likely,
 the main seal on the engine or tranny or both is leaking oil
 on to the pressure plate.
 A relatively cheap fix (parts wise) but a real PITA labor
 wise.
 EWong
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 07:52:35 -0500
 From: redline1@juno.com (Kurt m Steiger)
 Subject: STOCK AIR BOX
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 On Fri, 23 Jan 98 00:30:03 (HST) Jack Alford (The Administrator)
 writes:>>Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 23:59:04 -0500>From: ray >Subject: STOCK AIR BOX>To: toyota group >>Hi everytoyobody i'm Ray Torres and i need to know who have a spare>stock air box for a 1992  4x4 p/u .>THANKS>RAY> Well Ray I might be able to help you.  My neighbor just decided 2 get a
 new truck (NOT A YOTO THIS TIME) andhappens that he robbed most of the
 mods back from the truck.   I just bought his K&N for $100 and will be
 installing it next month sometime.  Mine is a 92 extra also (Takes the
 guess work out 4 u.)  So what is the air box worth 2 u?  Just let me know
 when, where, and $ i'll ship it.  You can e-mail me off-list w/ your
 response.
 _____________________________________________________________________
 You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
 Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
 Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 08:27:17 -0600
 From: Chuck & Birgit Schladenhauffen <4RUNNER4X4@prodigy.net> Subject: Toy4x4 Digest V1 #674
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 22:09:43 -0700
 From: Brian Rishaw  Subject: digital clock
 To: Toyota 4x4 Digest-posting  Brown's Toyota City (800-848-4451) sell's the Toyota digital clock,
 which will plug into any truck or 4Runner's wiring harness from 89 up,
 for about $40.
 Before you buy the parts from browns check out Jay Marks Toyota I did
 and save all most $30.00 onthe same parts they also give discount to
 TLCA members tell them you seen it on the web. and very Frendly to talk
 to.
 http://www.jaymarkstoyota.com/bin/texhtml?form=dn/dealers.one.dn&dealno=309&file=/dealers/gulf/42244-309/parts.htm
 - --
 Chuck & Birgit Schladenhauffen
 4RUNNER4X4  85  &  88 4Runners
 http://members.tripod.com/~schladenhauffen/index.html
 My 4Runner Homepage
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 12:33:49 -8 GMT
 From: "Leo G. Divinagracia III"  Subject: Truck Hill -almost- claims another
 To: Toy4x4 List  From: Scott Wilson  I  go to start the truck to get out of this 'situation' and NOTHING
 HAPPENS!! No power...anywhere. Oh sh*t. I pop the hood and get Mark
 to  check everything  out,  but  everything is  in order...it still
 wont'  start.  Finally  something he did  makes my  phone (which is
 hooked  up to  charge) beep...so I  know something he  did just got
 power  to it.  I yell at him to do it again...and eventually we get
 it so it is working 100%.  yippy.  (Thanks Mark!) I have to believe
 that  the short  is another  bi-product of  Steven's Creek Toyota's
 work..because it never did it before they remvoed the battery while
 doing the engine rebuild.
 i'd check the ground wire from the battery to the engine block.  it may have
 been loose and mark's shaking it could have caused it to contact enough for
 you to start it.  it's bolted to a bottom part of the engine, on the
 passenger's side in the front.  you can work on it from under, remove the
 aluminum foil... er i mean the front skid plate first.  if i remember right,
 it's a weird head on the bolt, like a torx...
 - -----------------------
 Leo G. Divinagracia III
 ldivinag@csuhayward.edu
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 12:48:39 EST
 From: DRM033@aol.com
 Subject: V6 or V8 in an '80 Toy
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 I know this has been tossed around many times, but I have a few more
 questions.  I will be checking the archives and am looking for new input also.
 Which is easier, V6 or V8?
 Which is cheaper?
 4.3 or Buick?
 We are planning on skipping the adapter stuff and just using 700R4 or T350
 with 203 (I think) X-fer case.  Anything other than making whole new
 crossmember? (I know new drive shafts)
 Any thoughts on this or any other tips?  like I said, we are trying to avoid
 the $$$$$$ adapters.
 thanks
 - ---------------------------------------------------------------------
 David Moore                       DRM033@aol.com
 90 Toyota Truck - 4" ProComp, 33" Swampers,
 4.88's, rear ARB, TJM bumper & Ramsey #8000
 TLCA #5662
 Traxx In Motion 4 Wheel Drive Club
 - ---------------------------------------------------------------------
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 06:50:21 -0500
 From: Ed Ruf  Subject: vented disk swap: better stops?
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 At 09:39 PM 1/22/98 EST, DRM033 illustriously expounded:>In a message dated 98-01-22 15:14:40 EST, you write:>>>  The real culprit is as Runar mentioned. At higher temps the surface of the>>  pads/shoes ablates. This causes a hot gas layer in between the disk and>>  friction material. I also believe the coefficient of friction is lower at>>  higher temps, gas layer aside.>>Is this a something drilled rotors help solve?  Sounds good to me...
 Much more complicated than a yes or no question, especially htaking into
 account the loss in surface area. The ideal solution is to never let the
 brakes this hot. Ok, I know that's the ideal case. Here's a low tech, cheap
 solution that might be of use depending on your circumstances. Find a large
 windshield washer reservoir and associated hardware at the wrecking yard.
 Mount such that the spray is directed at the front rotors. Mount a switch
 in a convient spot and then use when needed. Now, this won't work for all,
 but may for some folks depending on your vehicle use. I can tell you it was
 the biggest bang for the buck improvement to the SCCA GT1 car I crewed for
 some years ago, even after all the normal high $$ fixes. It was easier to
 mount though, as we had the cooling ducts to place the injectors in.
 Ed
 ------------------------------
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