Toy4x4 Digest          Mon, 26 Jan 98 00:30:01 (HST)  Volume 1 : Issue 674
 Today's Topics:
 3.0 V6 headers
 36X14.50X16.50 swamper radials for sale
 alternator update
 Bio (2 msgs)
 control arm bushings
 digital clock
 electric bananas (chat), (long) (2 msgs)
 Final word on exhuast
 Ford shock mounts
 Frank Raines OHV Agenda  correction Channel 31
 Fried morning
 front spring question
 Ft Hood
 Fw: Frank Raines OHV Agenda
 Gas Mileage
 Gearing
 General stuff
 Hard Start Hot
 Headers
 Head Gasget Gone, '90 3.0L (2 msgs)
 I'm glad to be writing this... (5 msgs)
 K&N Air Filters
 K&N Filter analysis (2 msgs)
 Lockers on Ice, experience (2 msgs)
 my little trail excursion, questions (long) (2 msgs)
 no hard feelings
 Old cruiser/ '88 Runner (2 msgs)
 Prices for Dynomax
 Re-post
 rear brake proportioning bracket (3 msgs)
 Salvage Yard list
 signal rotor air gap
 Ssstttttuuuuutttttteeeeerrrrriiiinnnnnggggg   Truck (2 msgs)
 Stadium Race
 Steven's Creek Toyota (2 msgs)
 STOCK AIR BOX
 Tacoma Rear Bumper (2 msgs)
 Toy4x4 Digest V1 #671
 Truck Hill -almost- claims another
 Unsubscribe information
 What engine is in an 80 SR5
 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
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 ----------------------------------------------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 22:50:10 +0530
 From: elbutcho@juno.com (Paul Tom)
 Subject: 3.0 V6 headers
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Hi everyone,
 I'm debating whether or not I should put headers on my '93's V6.
 I've already got a drop in K&N but the exhaust is stock.  The engine has
 49k on it and has decent power but  I'm just wondering if headers would
 make a noticeable difference to justify the trouble/expense.  Also does
 anyone know who makes a header for the 3.0 besides Downey?  I think I
 heard NWOR did and there is a place locally that claims to install Doug
 Thorley headers which would be my first choice, but after calling Doug
 Thorley they know nothing about this?
 Thanks in advance!
 Paul Tom
 '93 V6 xtra-cab, K&N, 4.56's, Viper 600HF,
 h/g done at 42k, 31x10.50 BFG A/T's
 ------------------------------
 Date: Sun, 25 Jan 1998 20:36:09 -0700
 From: Tony Bartlett  Subject: 36X14.50X16.50 swamper radials for sale
 To: Toy4x4  Anyone in the Santa Cruz, CA area I just heard of a set of new Swamper
 Radials for sale. They are 36X14.50's for 16.5 wheels.
 Anyone interested you can call Jim at 408-688-7262
 I hear they have only been used for about 2 weeks for $800 (new was
 $1200)
 Tony.
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 20:08:46 -0800 (PST)
 From: rick99@jps.net (Rick Murray)
 Subject: alternator update
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org
 Interesting experience with my alternator(s) recently.
 I had posted that I replaced it with a unit from NAPA ($75). I also
 noticed that the in-dash voltmeter was nearly pegged to the '18'.
 I didn't recall if it did that before  someone on the list mentioned
 that theirs did that too, so I didn't worry about it .
 After a week, the new alternator quit !!.  Disgusted with aftermarket, I took
 my 4runner to a Toyota dealer without even looking at it, since I was
 about to go wheeling the next day (Winter Fun Fest in Grass Valley)
 I didn't have time to dick around with it. They replaced the failed NAPA
 unit with one of theirs ($120 plus labor). I wanted professionals to
 'do-it-right' so I wouldn't have to worry about it on the trail.
 It still showed 18 volts on the meter, and I resolved to check that
 out when I got back from my wheeling trip.
 Driving to the trailhead, I smell 'rotten-egg' odors.  I assume its my
 fairly new , aftermarket Catalytic converter.  While waiting for others
 to show up at the trailhead, and listening to the radio for about 90 minutes,
 my battery drains.  I needed a jump start.   No problem.  A few miles down
 the trail, a better-mechanic-than-I  (and there are lots of them around)
 smells the odor, and suggest I check my battery.  Sure enuf, its bone dry.
 We top it off with water.  (Found out later my alternator is putting out over
 22 volts, and boiling the sulfuric acid in the battery, creating the smell).
 Its still driveable, but I worry about other electrical components being
 fried for the rest of the weekend.
 I take it back to the dealer, since the work is under warranty, to have them
 check
 things out, suspecting the IC regulator.   They say its unlikely to be the
 regulator, since 'they never go out'.   They check it out, and sure enough
 its a bad regulator.   They want $160 plus labor, and it would have to be
 ordered.
 I said never mind, and got one an hour later at a wreckers (Toyautomart
 in Rancho Cordova) for $20.  Now its putting out a much-more-normal 15 volts.
 I replaced the battery since it was 3-years old anyway.
 Moral :  check your battery fluid and voltage (while the engine is running)
 more often.
 ##################################################################
 Rick Murray                                22R motor ; 3-inch lift
 84 Toyota 4Runner SR5                    33" BFG M/Ts ; 4.88 gears
 Rancho Cordova, Ca.                   Rancho 9000's ; on-board air
 http://www.jps.net/rick99/             Marlin TCase #67 ; TRD LSD
 ##################################################################
 ------------------------------
 Date: Sat, 24 Jan 1998 18:16:12 -0500
 From: ray  Subject: Bio
 To: Toy4x4  Toy4x4-Request wrote:>> Personal Bio Info>> POST TO THE LIST ONLY>> toy4x4@tlca.org> +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++>> Name:Reinaldo Torres "RAY">> City & State:Warner Robins , GA>> Country:US>> E-mail address:ray47@cyberhighway.net>> Toyota (s) year & model:1992 std & 1984 sr5 std 4x4's>> Are you a TLCA Member (Y/N/Number?):n>> Age:25>> Occupation:United States Air Force>> Marital Status:S>> Hobbies:Harley's & dirt bikes , volleyball , jetski , auto's repair> How did you find out about the Toyota 4x4 Mailing List:net surfing>> General info about your vehicle, self, etc.:1984 4x4p/u weber carb.,ranchos 5000,rancho lift , 33" tires and more....
 1992 4x4 p/u is my baby!!!!!!!
 ------------------------------
 Date: Sat, 24 Jan 1998 19:39:22 -0800
 From: kezell@webtv.net (kelly ezell)
 Subject: Bio
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org (Toy4x4)
 NAME: KELLY D. EZELL
 CITY & STATE: BURLINGTON , WA.
 COUNTRY: USA
 EMAIL ADDRESS: KEZELL@WEBTV.NET
 YEAR & MODLE: 1980 4X4 PU.
 AGE: 30
 OCCUPATION: NAVY (MECH.)
 MARITAL STATUS: MARRIED
 HOBBIES: HUNTING, FISHING, CAMPING, & HIKKING.
 HOW FOUND: SURFING
 GEN: My Toyota has a 6" susp. lift, 33x12.50 Wild Country tires on 15x12
 wheels. It is some what of a beeter but it has never left me stranded or
 stuck ! I have owned other brands of trucks, but none compare ,even
 tough it is the oldest truck I have owned.
 I would like some info on beefing the 20R engine up a bit. It already
 has a header & I've done some minor tuning to the stock carb. & I
 installed Splitfire spark plugs. All of these have made minor
 improvements. But I am always looking & listening for ideas.
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 00:06:53 EST
 From: DRM033  Subject: control arm bushings
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 I am having some doubts about the control arm bushings on my truck.  I am
 thinking that I would like to replace them.  Performance Products lists -
 4WD PU 89-95 $57 set
 I thought some one a while back on the list said these bushings were more
 expensive, but maybe that was from the factory and was rubber.  Are these hard
 to replace?  I seem to remember some sort of horror story about the
 installation.  These are Daystar Poly.  Anyone done this to their truck?  At
 that price I may do it.
 By the way, They also list Poly lube for sale by itself (8oz) - waterproof
 poly grease with teflon for when you put too much on the first bushing...
 - ---------------------------------------------------------------------
 David Moore                       DRM033@aol.com
 90 Toyota Truck - 4" ProComp, 33" Swampers,
 4.88's, rear ARB, TJM bumper & Ramsey #8000
 TLCA #5662
 Traxx In Motion 4 Wheel Drive Club
 - ---------------------------------------------------------------------
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 22:09:43 -0700
 From: Brian Rishaw  Subject: digital clock
 To: Toyota 4x4 Digest-posting  Brown's Toyota City (800-848-4451) sell's the Toyota digital clock,
 which will plug into any truck or 4Runner's wiring harness from 89 up,
 for about $40.
 ------------------------------
 Date: Sat, 24 Jan 1998 09:13:21 -0500
 From: Rick  Subject: electric bananas (chat), (long)
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Frustrated and whining in NC.  After pulling and having my starter
 rebuilt a few months ago, experiencing a return of the "click and whirr
 - - no start" and defeating it with an Optima, the dreaded ghost is back.
 My 88 4Runner does not want to start sometimes.  I am sure it is not the
 starter as i can climb under with a wire with alligator clips on both
 ends and get it to spin immediately.  Somewhere in the ignition, there
 is a short that is preventing just enough juice from tripping the
 armature all the way.  Replacing those "little copper bushings" only
 fixed it temporarily. Usually, it will crank if I turn off all
 electrical draws on the dash - radio, fan, etc...  Yesterday, i am
 driving home after work and a buddy pulls up beside me to tell me that
 instead of brake lights, one turn signal comes on when I slow down.
 Because I am electrically challenged (I believe in the smoke theory of
 automotive electrics), I will be forced to take my baby to an auto
 electrician.  Whine mode off, any thoughts out there?
 ------------------------------
 Date: Sat, 24 Jan 98 10:23:48 -0600
 From: bwiencek@kcnet.com
 Subject: electric bananas (chat), (long)
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 On Sat, 24 Jan 1998, Rick  wrote:>electrical draws on the dash - radio, fan, etc...  Yesterday, i am>driving home after work and a buddy pulls up beside me to tell me that>instead of brake lights, one turn signal comes on when I slow down.>Because I am electrically challenged (I believe in the smoke theory of>automotive electrics), I will be forced to take my baby to an auto>electrician.  Whine mode off, any thoughts out there?
 CHECK the ground cable running from the - post of the battery to the frame & the
 engine - if in doubt - change it - $4-6 from an auto parts store, and I run an
 'extra' cable from the body point to the engine to make sure it's good and
 grounded (starter turns faster-less resistance).  The light problem is probably
 a 'flaoting' ground problem too.
 - - Brian
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 02:19:01 EST
 From: JOEMAMA135  Subject: Final word on exhuast
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org
 O.K., I just read about 2.5 hours of old threads about exhuast,  and I am even
 more lost than before.  One thing I do know is that I want to have a custom
 setup made by a local shop, because It seems cheaper, I also know that I want
 Dynomax or Flowmaster.  The problem is everybody has different opinions on the
 way they sound.  My dad has a 1990 Chevy SS 454(yes its only a 1/2 ton!)  with
 a Whipple SC, an oversize cam, Edelbrock intake manifold, and Edelbrock
 headers, with a Flowmaster setup. I think this is the sweetest sounding truck
 in the world, I don't think it is that loud, so if anybody else has heard  a
 big block with Flows', that is the type of sound I am looking for (of course,
 I know that is impossible since 3.0 liters is = to 183c.u.!!) One other
 problem, I understand that the Dynomax has the least backpressure,  so does
 that mean the Flowmaster will actually make less power and more noise?
 Whichever one I choose,  I want it to sound GOOD!! I will be very unhappy, and
 actually go so far as to put the STOCK exhaust back on if it sounds like on of
 those Honda Civics with an 8" tail pipe.
 Sorry for the long post, but I finally have some money lying around, and I
 want to get this done on monday or tuesday.
 I would appreciate any and ALL opinions on this,
 Thanks
 Joe Lillard
 Joemama135@aol.com
 93 Toyota X-Cab V6, 4" Pro-Comp Stage II
 33x12.5 Goodyear MT's
 15x10 American Eagle 589's
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 22:13:29 -0500
 From: Charles Brooks  Subject: Ford shock mounts
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org
 Does anyone have a description of the ford shock mount
 install on there page?
 Charles Brooks
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 22:40:26 -0800
 From: "Todd and Terry Steele"  Subject: Frank Raines OHV Agenda  correction Channel 31
 To: "Offroad Digest" , >>Okay, here's the deal.>>>>We'll plan to meet over at Frank Raines OHV Park at 10:30am on January>>31st!  I've never been there before, so I'm hoping there is a ranger>>station or main gate where we'll meet.>>>>For those of us who have CB's, we'll be on channel 31 when we're in range.>>>>Again, if you want to know a bit more about Frank Raines, you can visit>Roger Brown's page at:>http://reality.sgi.com/rogerb/4x4/FrankRaines/index.html>>>I'll be away from my computer from Monday to Wednesday.  If you're>interested, drop me a line and I'll respond when I get back.>>Todd>His:  87 Toyota 4X4, Marlin Tcase #180, EZ Lockers F/R, Custom rear bumper>and nerfs, Ramsey F bumper, Trailmaster/Superlift 4", 33-9.5 BFG MT's.>Custom Body by Sierra Nevada.>>> ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 18:24:34 -0600
 From: breeze@cysource.com (Jeffrey Delzer)
 Subject: Fried morning
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 bwiencek@kcnet.com wrote:>> Well, glad to hear it was easy - as for what the other person suggested, I'd> be careful about using wd-40 for anything but the cleaning - when it> evaporates it gets real gummy.  The graphite lock lube does work good, and is> probably the best for this - I totally forgot about it.
 Graphite is probably best, but I've never owned any, so I've been using
 WD-40 on my vehicles for 20+ years now without problems, and I've lived
 in just about every climate there is. It's not permanent, though. You
 have to reapply it every 3-4 years, as necessary.
 Jeff Delzer
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 16:40:38 -0700
 From: "Jay Kopycinski"  Subject: front spring question
 To: Toyota 4x4 List >This wonM-^Rt increase my front approach angle at the springs, but
 Sorry about the control characters again. I found out what the problem
 is. I composed the last half of the message in Microsoft Word and when
 I cut and paste it in Netscape Communicator......it upsets the apostrophes.
 I'll try not to do it again.......back to my corner.......
 Jay Kopycinski     '85 Toylet  (ROKTOY)
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 19:37:27 -0600 (CST)
 From: gfrancis@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (Greg S. Francis)
 Subject: Ft Hood
 To: dphills1@mmm.com>Greg>Todd Hoffmaster in San Antonio told me that the National Guard>is training up there for a couple of weeks. I guess that means no>civilians. I'm going to mess around out by Lakeway on Sat. afternoon.>Want to go?>>Doug>dphills1@mmm.com
 Doug-
 This is indeed true, Hood is closed.  Several of us are heading down to a
 place near San Antonio early tomorrow for the day.  This is a place that
 Just Jeeps in Austin told me about that promises to be pretty good.  I am
 extending an open invitation to you and anyone else that wants to come.
 Contact me before 7 am on Saturday morning if you want to go.  We'll be
 heading out around 7.30.
 Greg Francis
 512/457-9028
 Greg S. Francis
 University of Texas @ Austin
 School of Architecture
 gfrancis@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu
 TLCA Member #5558
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 22:21:34 -0800
 From: "Todd and Terry Steele"  Subject: Fw: Frank Raines OHV Agenda
 To: "Offroad Digest" , "Toyota Digest" >Okay, here's the deal.>>We'll plan to meet over at Frank Raines OHV Park at 10:30am on January>31st!  I've never been there before, so I'm hoping there is a ranger>station or main gate where we'll meet.>>For those of us who have CB's, we'll be on channel when we're in range.>>Again, if you want to know a bit more about Frank Raines, you can visit
 Roger Brown's page at:
 http://reality.sgi.com/rogerb/4x4/FrankRaines/index.html> I'll be away from my computer from Monday to Wednesday.  If you're
 interested, drop me a line and I'll respond when I get back.
 Todd
 His:  87 Toyota 4X4, Marlin Tcase #180, EZ Lockers F/R, Custom rear bumper
 and nerfs, Ramsey F bumper, Trailmaster/Superlift 4", 33-9.5 BFG MT's.
 Custom Body by Sierra Nevada.
 ------------------------------
 Date: Sun, 25 Jan 1998 23:31:15 -0800
 From: Jason Redman  Subject: Gas Mileage
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 My gas mileage with the stock 31x10.50's on my V6 Tacoma was between
 16.5 and 18 mpg.  When I put on 33x12.50's, it dropped immediately to
 between 13 and 13.5 mpg.  That seemed like a pretty big drop for that
 small of a change in tire size, but I didn't worry.
 For the last four or five tanks of gas, though, my mileage has been
 about 16 to 16.5 mpg.  Don't get me wrong, I'm not complaining, but I am
 curious.  I didn't make any engine mods, didn't get any work done on it,
 didn't change my style of driving, and I'm still running about 35psi on
 the road.  So what would make my mileage jump up like that?
 Austin Marriage
 yeti@inetworld.net
 96 Tacoma XCab 4X4 V6, 4"Downey, 33" BFG M/T's
 ------------------------------
 Date: Sun, 25 Jan 1998 20:50:15 -0800
 From: Ken Emanuel  Subject: Gearing
 To: Toyota E-mail List Group  I was just checking the axle codes of my friend's '86 4Runner Automatic
 Turbo at   http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota/4_axles.html.
 His VIN # reads G292 for the axle ratio.  This would mean that his truck
 has a 2 pinion rear axle and 4.10 gears.  I thought that V6s and Turbos
 had the 4 pinion rear axle.  I also thought 4 cylinder automatics had
 4.30 gears.  This can't be right.
 Anyone have any ideas?
 *-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*
 Ken Emanuel                     Emanuel@csus.edu
 '87 Xtra Cab SR5    (22R-E)
 http://webpages.csus.edu/~sac75830/toystuff.htm
 *-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 22:10:12 -0500
 From: Charles Brooks  Subject: General stuff
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org
 Now that I have the other car to drive I just don't know
 where to start on the truck! I'll be pulling the seat out
 sunday so I can r/r the carpeting and repair a small
 rust hole. I figure the interior will keep me occupied
 for a couple of weeks. I think after that, I'm going to
 move to the suspension. Maybe fab the extended shock mounts
 if I can find some ford mounts. I dunno my heads a spinnen ;)
 Charles Brooks
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 17:17:05 -0600
 From: Keith & Christy  Subject: Hard Start Hot
 To: "Toyota, Mailing"  Sounds as if the switch is not sending ignition voltage (12v) while the
 switch is in the 'start' position.  Probably a bad switch, but you can
 check the voltages to be sure.  You should have 12v on the ignition lead
 when 'on' and a momentary (until you switch back to on) 12v on the start
 position when starting.
 - --
 Keith Campbell
 /////////////\\\\\\\\\\\\
 Si Vis Pacem, Para Bellum
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 18:18:55 -0500
 From: Ed.Wong@astramerck.com
 Subject: Headers
 To: Toyotanut@aol.com, toy4x4@tlca.org
 As people on this list already know, Im partial to LC Engineering headers.
 Mostly as they have "updated" their desing over the years.
 They also ceramic coat them - lasts much longer here in the
 "rust belt".
 The LC header is a long primary 4 into1 header. In general - the difference
 between tri-Y vs. 4into1 is more of an issue of who bent them up vs
 any actual advantage of TriY vs 4into1.
 FYI - the OEM 22RE manifold is a TriY design :)
 EWong
 ------------------------------
 Date: Sat, 24 Jan 1998 17:37:02 -0800
 From: "Wayne"  Subject: Head Gasget Gone, '90 3.0L
 To:  All,
 Well, it happened. Was running a little rough and I decided to put a set of
 plugs in it. Pulled #6 and water poured out. Called the Toyota dealer and
 they said bring it in. They are doing a recall of their own. Service guy
 said I would have gotten a letter on it in a few days. Had a little over 90k
 when it went.
 I have already done the timing belt (and all the other belts), and the
 exhaust manifolds. Anyone got any suggestions as to what else I probably
 should do to it while it is down? I am not sure what is prone to going out
 on this particular year of engine.
 Thanks, Wayne
 ------------------------------
 Date: Sat, 24 Jan 1998 22:03:03 -0800
 From: James Brink  Subject: Head Gasget Gone, '90 3.0L
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Wayne wrote:> I have already done the timing belt (and all the other belts), and the> exhaust manifolds. Anyone got any suggestions as to what else I probably> should do to it while it is down? I am not sure what is prone to going out> on this particular year of engine.
 1. Water pump
 2. Camshaft and crank seals
 3. Timing Belt tensioner/idler
 4. Thermostat
 - --
 Jim Brink, Toyota/ASE Certified Technician	1986 Std. Bed 4x4
 Manhattan Beach, CA				32x11.50/15 BFG M/Ts
 ToyTech@Off-Road.com
 ********************************************************************
 TLCA - Friends of the Mojave Road (FOMR) - CA4WDC
 ------------------------------
 Date: Sat, 24 Jan 1998 23:10:32 -0800
 From: Eric Johnson  Subject: I'm glad to be writing this...
 To: "'mike50pat@aol.com'" ,
 I went up the Shaw Lake trail today, mostly testing out my new Truetracs
 and gears. We had intended to play in the snow around Spada Lake, but the
 snow which had just a few weeks ago been dry and deep, was now wet and
 largely gone, so we headed to the nearby Shaw Lake trail.
 The truetracs are really awesome - they really improve the overall
 traction. There were sections and situations on the trail where I
 previously got crossed up and just sorta dangled there when I had open
 diffs -- with the truetracs, I generally drove right up. In some
 situations, with a wheel or two in the air, I had to give a little foot
 pressure on the brakes to get the sides with traction to spin, but it
 usually worked. The only situations where I got stuck, on some snow we ran
 prior to running the trail, I had all four wheels spinning. I'm really
 pleased with them so far.
 Going up the trail was uneventful, though it was quite a bit easier for me
 than the last time I had taken it. I got the opportunity to try a few of
 the more aggressive lines. This trail definitely is more challenging when
 it has been raining.
 Coming down the trail got interesting. A pickup that was ahead of us had a
 tie-rod-end come out of his front tie-rod, and we spent until past sunset
 getting him going again, along with an impromptu trail front-end-alignment.
 Anyways, by now its dark. Somehow, it worked out that I was in the lead. I
 don't do much night wheeling. but I've been on this trail many times and
 pretty much figured I knew my way around the various obstacles.
 Most of the way down was without incident. I eventually got to the lowest
 stream crossing, which is an unremarkable affair, except that the trail
 following it is an off-camber lean into the gulley formed by the creek. Its
 also the last obstacle of any difficulty that we would normally face coming
 off the trail. After crossing the creek itself, the trail kinda goes up and
 to the right, cresting, and back down again. All at a pretty good (20+
 degrees) lean into the gulley.
 By the way, this was all during a torrential downpour of rain. Pretty heavy
 even by pacific northwest standards. And it was dark.
 I couldn't see squat, as I was going over the crest. I should have radioed
 for a spotter. But I didn't. It was getting late and we kinda wanted to get
 out of there. I tried to feel my way around, watching the clinometer pretty
 carefully, since I couldn't see the terrain. Next thing I know, I feel a
 huge lean and the clinometer suddenly makes a large jump. So I radioed the
 guy behind me (Tom Kay) and asked him to take a peek. He radioes back
 "Don't move an inch."
 It turns out I had driven insanely close to the edge of the trail, which
 becomes a slippery slope into the ravine. It was one of those situations
 where moving forward made you slide further in, moving backwards did the
 same. Even turning the steering wheel inched my towards the slippery slope.
 I eventually got my parking brake on tight enough to hold, and was able to
 get out of the 4Runner to take a look. It was pretty ugly....
 We first tried to get me out by snatching me from Tom's rig (behind me) but
 as he tugged, I inched further down the slope .
 We eventually got me out of danger by running chain, cable, and a
 come-a-long from my front tow hook to a tree high up on the bank. That at
 least would keep my front end from slipping in. The guys we had helped with
 the tie-rod problem were a great help here, as they had a long length of
 chain with them. Several of us would lift on my front bumper as anther
 cranked the come-a-long and the front end inched out of danger.
 We attempted the same with the rear, but we didn't have a convenient
 anchor. Tom drove his 4runner up so we could pull against it, but all we
 really accomplished with that was to pull his rig down at least as much as
 mine went up. But at least being hooked up in the rear would protect the
 rear from sliding in (or I'd take Tom with me, but that was fairly unlikely
 since he had a pretty good footing. With all the lines running to my rig,
 it reminded me somewhat of my boat when its tied up to a pier.
 So we continued to crank the front end over as far as possible. Eventually,
 belayed at both ends, and expertly spotted and guided by Rich Shade, I was
 able to drive out of danger. Whew!
 They say good judgment comes from experience. Experience comes from bad
 judgment. :) I got myself some experience tonite!
 - --
 - - ej@blarg.net http://www.off-road.com/~ej
 ------------------------------
 Date: Sun, 25 Jan 1998 01:30:24 -0800
 From: Tom Kay  Subject: I'm glad to be writing this...
 To: 4x4nw@unix.off-road.com
 Eric Johnson wrote:>> I went up the Shaw Lake trail today, mostly testing out my new Truetracs> and gears. We had intended to play in the snow around Spada Lake, but the> snow which had just a few weeks ago been dry and deep, was now wet and> largely gone, so we headed to the nearby Shaw Lake trail.>> The truetracs are really awesome - they really improve the overall> traction. There were sections and situations on the trail where I> previously got crossed up and just sorta dangled there when I had open> diffs -- with the truetracs, I generally drove right up. In some> situations, with a wheel or two in the air, I had to give a little foot> pressure on the brakes to get the sides with traction to spin, but it> usually worked. The only situations where I got stuck, on some snow we ran> prior to running the trail, I had all four wheels spinning. I'm really> pleased with them so far.>> Going up the trail was uneventful, though it was quite a bit easier for me> than the last time I had taken it. I got the opportunity to try a few of> the more aggressive lines. This trail definitely is more challenging when> it has been raining.>> Coming down the trail got interesting. A pickup that was ahead of us had a> tie-rod-end come out of his front tie-rod, and we spent until past sunset> getting him going again, along with an impromptu trail front-end-alignment.>> Anyways, by now its dark. Somehow, it worked out that I was in the lead. I> don't do much night wheeling. but I've been on this trail many times and> pretty much figured I knew my way around the various obstacles.>> Most of the way down was without incident. I eventually got to the lowest> stream crossing, which is an unremarkable affair, except that the trail> following it is an off-camber lean into the gulley formed by the creek. Its> also the last obstacle of any difficulty that we would normally face coming> off the trail. After crossing the creek itself, the trail kinda goes up and> to the right, cresting, and back down again. All at a pretty good (20+> degrees) lean into the gulley.>> By the way, this was all during a torrential downpour of rain. Pretty heavy> even by pacific northwest standards. And it was dark.>> I couldn't see squat, as I was going over the crest. I should have radioed> for a spotter. But I didn't. It was getting late and we kinda wanted to get> out of there. I tried to feel my way around, watching the clinometer pretty> carefully, since I couldn't see the terrain. Next thing I know, I feel a> huge lean and the clinometer suddenly makes a large jump. So I radioed the> guy behind me (Tom Kay) and asked him to take a peek. He radioes back> "Don't move an inch.">> It turns out I had driven insanely close to the edge of the trail, which> becomes a slippery slope into the ravine. It was one of those situations> where moving forward made you slide further in, moving backwards did the> same. Even turning the steering wheel inched my towards the slippery slope.>> I eventually got my parking brake on tight enough to hold, and was able to> get out of the 4Runner to take a look. It was pretty ugly....>> We first tried to get me out by snatching me from Tom's rig (behind me) but> as he tugged, I inched further down the slope .>> We eventually got me out of danger by running chain, cable, and a> come-a-long from my front tow hook to a tree high up on the bank. That at> least would keep my front end from slipping in. The guys we had helped with> the tie-rod problem were a great help here, as they had a long length of> chain with them. Several of us would lift on my front bumper as anther> cranked the come-a-long and the front end inched out of danger.>> We attempted the same with the rear, but we didn't have a convenient> anchor. Tom drove his 4runner up so we could pull against it, but all we> really accomplished with that was to pull his rig down at least as much as> mine went up. But at least being hooked up in the rear would protect the> rear from sliding in (or I'd take Tom with me, but that was fairly unlikely> since he had a pretty good footing. With all the lines running to my rig,> it reminded me somewhat of my boat when its tied up to a pier.>> So we continued to crank the front end over as far as possible. Eventually,> belayed at both ends, and expertly spotted and guided by Rich Shade, I was> able to drive out of danger. Whew!>> They say good judgment comes from experience. Experience comes from bad> judgment. :) I got myself some experience tonite!> -->> - ej@blarg.net http://www.off-road.com/~ej>> =====================================================> This list courtesy of Off-Road.Com: http://www.off-road.com
 Eric was just a little conservative with one particular statement
 above.  Where he says, "It turns out I had driven insanely close to the
 edge of the trail, which becomes a slippery slope into the ravine."
 This is a near verticle drop of about 16-18 feet with a guaranteed roll,
 and when I saw the position of his right side tires, I learned the true
 meaning of "pucker"!
 ------------------------------
 Date: Sun, 25 Jan 1998 13:25:42 -0500
 From: Chris Caldwell  Subject: I'm glad to be writing this...
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Eric Johnson wrote:> I tried to feel my way around, watching the clinometer pretty> carefully, since I couldn't see the terrain. Next thing I know, I feel a> huge lean and the clinometer suddenly makes a large jump.
 So what is a clinometer?
 Chris Caldwell
 caldwell@vol.com
 ------------------------------
 Date: Sun, 25 Jan 1998 09:21:10 -1000 (HST)
 From: Eric Johnson  Subject: I'm glad to be writing this...
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 On Sun, 25 Jan 1998, Chris Caldwell wrote:> Eric Johnson wrote:>>> I tried to feel my way around, watching the clinometer pretty>> carefully, since I couldn't see the terrain. Next thing I know, I feel a>> huge lean and the clinometer suddenly makes a large jump.>> So what is a clinometer?
 its a normally useless set of gauges that tells you how far leaned over
 you are, front to back and side to side. It was an option available from
 the factory in some years.
 ------------------------------
 Date: Sun, 25 Jan 1998 15:41:48 -0600
 From: "Steve C."  Subject: I'm glad to be writing this...
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Chris Caldwell wrote:> So what is a clinometer?>> Chris Caldwell> caldwell@vol.com
 Its similar to what an airplane has...lets you measure the climb and
 lean of a hill that your truck is on.  A built in protractor of sorts.
 - --
 Steve Capuano			1996 Tacoma ext cab V6 4X4
 capuano@hypercon.com		31x10.50x15 Wrangler RT/S
 Houston, Texas			Rear LockRight  K&N filter
 Edelbrock headers
 NRA lifetime member		Dynomax 2.5" cat back
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 15:41:38 -0800
 From: Barney McNamara  Subject: K&N Air Filters
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org, cbrooks1@mail.tqci.net
 Charles wrote:>A long time back we had a discussion on the merits and>drawbacks of the K&N's. Is the person who did the oil>analysis after using one still on the List? I tried finding>the thread in the back issues but didn't have any luck.
 That particular article is now on my web pages in the technical
 discussion - engines - kn filters thread.
 I thought it was real intersting, too.
 ______________________________________________________________
 Barney McNamara              JENNY - 83 Toyota Short Bed
 ( barney@flowpoint.com )     stock 22R motor ; 3" body lift
 Santa Cruz, Ca.              8" alloy rims; 31" BFG A/Ts
 homepage: http://www.scruz.net/~barneym/barnhome.htm
 ______________________________________________________________
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 19:26:05 -0800 (PST)
 From: rick99@jps.net (Rick Murray)
 Subject: K&N Filter analysis
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org>I believe the analysis was done on fleet vehicles that>had documented regular maintenance. Can anyone help?>>Does anyone even remember this???   :)
 Yeah, I remember it.    It is on list #475.  I can re-post it
 or send it to you.  Interesting write-up.  Un-flattering picture
 of K&N filters.
 ##################################################################
 Rick Murray                                22R motor ; 3-inch lift
 84 Toyota 4Runner SR5                    33" BFG M/Ts ; 4.88 gears
 Rancho Cordova, Ca.                   Rancho 9000's ; on-board air
 http://www.jps.net/rick99/             Marlin TCase #67 ; TRD LSD
 ##################################################################
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 22:58:01 -0500
 From: Charles Brooks  Subject: K&N Filter analysis
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Rick Murray wrote:> Yeah, I remember it.    It is on list #475.  I can re-post it> or send it to you.  Interesting write-up.  Un-flattering picture> of K&N filters.
 Barney has it on his page, Thanks for the offer though.
 Charles Brooks
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 15:54:15 -0800
 From: Scott Muir  Subject: Lockers on Ice, experience
 To: "Toy4x4@tlca.org"  Runars wrote:>Talking about lockers... (Detroit or something)>THE SURPRIZE was when trying to drive straight....!  It is almost>impossible....  Everytime I step on the gas or let go off it, the truck>jumps in either direction.  I blame it on the freeplay in the locker.
 I'll just jump in here with some comments on a borrowed detroit
 I've been using for the last 3 weeks.
 I don't know what model this is, and the owner wasn't sure either,
 but it's an older 'replace the carrier' type.
 This is in a 85 SR5 xtracab. 31x11.5 Hankook Dynamics. Front diff
 is open, whereas Runar said his locker is in the front.
 I really like it offroad.  It makes really good use of the tires. It
 rocks!
 On-road is different.  I have to say that I run my truck more like a
 sportscar and this detroit doesn't like me doing this.  What Runar
 mentions
 above on ice, I get some sense of my truck wanting to do the same
 on the highway.  I think it comes from the locker not spooling when
 going in a straight line and actually only powering one side.  I've
 driven
 an FJ40 with a lockright in the back.  It was a real handful on the
 street.
 Short wheelbase, less than tight steering, 32" BFG-MT's.  Pull hard to
 the right when on the gas, and hard to the left when compression
 braking for the same reason (but waaaaaay worse).
 It is however really quiet and really fun on wet pavement.  I really
 hate
 the "added backlash" in the system.  It detracts from an otherwise
 fine piece of hardware.
 However, I've decided I want a manual locker instead.  I don't offroad
 enough to justify the side effects.  The another benefit of a manual
 locker
 is you can go off-roading 'UN-locked'.
 Speaking of which, can anyone tell me what years and for what models the
 electric locking diff. was available???  That's what I'm shooting for at
 the
 moment.
 Thanks,
 Scott.
 ------------------------------
 Date: Sat, 24 Jan 1998 04:18:01 -0800
 From: "Craig Blanchette"  Subject: Lockers on Ice, experience
 To:  I was just wondering if you would explain your ram on your steering to
 greater detail. It might be interesting to try if its legal in Canada.
 - -----Original Message-----
 From: runars@isbank.is  To: Toy4x4@tlca.org  Date: Friday, January 23, 1998 10:14 AM
 Subject: Lockers on Ice, experience>Talking about lockers...>>Finally I've been able to try my (new) truck on Icy roads.  It has a>Detroit or something of that kind in the front axle, and I was very>curius to find out how it would act on Ice.>>Firstly driving 2WD with the hubs locked has only a very slight effect>on the steering, but hardly noticanble.  (My truck however has a>hydraulic ram instead of the damper so its steering is very powerful).>>Driving in 4Hi.  I always expected huge amount of understeer, but non>came.  The steering got firmer.  Doing sharp corners, is no problem.>>THE SURPRICE was when trying to drive straight....!  It is almost>impossible....  Everytime I step on the gas or let go off it, the truck>jumps in either direction.  I blame it on the freeplay in the locker.>Under most road condictions, it seem that only one tire is getting>torque, or at least gets the torque a fraction of a turn earlier,>causing big shock into the steering.  And since I'm driving straight>both wheels are turning at the same speed and it can take the other tire>forever to get its torque deliverd.>The 12" wide rims don't make life easier here....>>No, no driveshaft is broken, since this shock is not in one direction>only.>>No, a steering damper would not improve things, as the steering ram>works as well as few dampers to damp things (I got 38" tires and have>never felt any road bumps up into the steering, Yes I've driven on bumpy>roads)>>I probably got a Detroit, but I've never heard it operate....  So maby>it is some other "unlocker" (like somebody calls the detroit kind of>lockers..)>>Runar.>>> -----Original Message----->> From: Eric Johnson [SMTP:ej@blarg.net]>> Sent: Thursday, January 22, 1998 7:10 AM>> To: Toy4x4@tlca.org>> Subject: Diffs are in!>>>> I finally got both my diffs in! Wow, that front third member is a bear>> to>> install. The rear takes 20 minutesl the front takes hours.>>>> I went from 4.30 to 4.88 gears and from open diffs to Truetracs front>> and>> rear.>>>> Hopefully, I'll get a chance to test this weekend, I'll let you all>> know>> how they perform off-road. On road, with front hubs unlocked, its>> virtually>> invisible; maybe a TINY bit of understeer in tight corners. With hubs>> locked, I get a little bit of a pull...>>>> -->>>> - ej@blarg.net>>>> ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 00:06:51 EST
 From: DRM033  Subject: my little trail excursion, questions (long)
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 I went to a local park with some trails this weekend.  We had several 4x4's:
 my Toy, 4 Jeeps (one YJ -9"rear, 44 Frnt, locked F&R, 38's), a newer IFS Chevy
 (38's)
 The park is mostly mud and some smallish rock ledges, but the 3 weeks of rain
 mad it extra fun.  Anyway, I was headed towards a mud hole to show the big
 dogs in the group where they can play, and I get stuck in the front.  They
 tell me to go ahead, so I decided to.
 Background: last time I had been to this hole several trucks went through, all
 had 35+ tires and one with 33's lost a bead coming back through on the way
 out. I did not try that time.
 Well, I engaged the rear ARB and nosed in.  Big mistake.  I made it in far
 enough to get the rear tires in, and that as it.  It was DEEP (read: halfway
 up the headlights).  I was able to almost back out, but all of a sudden my
 navigator/girlfriend made it aware to me that her floorboard was filling with
 water - and fast( 3" at deepest).  I motioned to the Jeep behind me to pull me
 out fast.  I had to climb out my window, hook up the strap, then squirm back
 in the window and get out as fast as I could.  Once they pulled me out, She
 opened the door and I actually heard a "swoosh" as about 4 gallons of water
 poured out of the cab.  I would have stayed in there and tried a little
 harder, but the computer being in the pasenger kick pannel got me scared fast.
 Well, old blue started running real rough, and stalling on me (I know - she
 was pissed I made her swim in that cold muddy water and get her carpet wet and
 almost dunk her brain).  I checked the air box - water in the bottom, but the
 filter was dry - whew.  Then it was time to pull the distributor cap - full-o-
 water.  A hand towel and some WD-40 later she was much happier and purring
 like a kitten.
 Well, the starter was full-o-mud, and started not starting.  Did it Sunday too
 so I took AutoZone up on that lifetime warranty.
 So, now to the question part of the class...
 Do Toy distributors mind being siliconed?
 Is there any way to waterproof  the computer somewhat?
 Is there anything to check to help the door seal better?(drivers door let no
 water in)
 Anyone seen a snorkel kit for a 90 Toy 22RE???
 thanks, sorry so long
 - ---------------------------------------------------------------------
 David Moore                       DRM033@aol.com
 90 Toyota Truck - 4" ProComp, 33" Swampers,
 4.88's, rear ARB, TJM bumper & Ramsey #8000
 TLCA #5662
 Traxx In Motion 4 Wheel Drive Club
 - ---------------------------------------------------------------------
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 10:15:38 -0800
 From: Chris Geiger  Subject: my little trail excursion, questions (long)
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org> Do Toy distributors mind being siliconed?
 I put a bit on silicone on my dist every time I have it off and it hold water out
 real well.> Is there any way to waterproof  the computer somewhat?
 Yes, cut  the wires off from the computer connector and extend the wires so you
 can drop the head liner of the truck and put the computer up there. Vent the
 diffs, and trannys. up high too.> Anyone seen a snorkel kit for a 90 Toy 22RE???
 Yes, you can order one from 4WPW for about $350
 Chris Gegier 93 4Runner http://geiger.mcl.ucsb.edu/offroad.html
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 21:15:46 -0900
 From: "David K. Walker"  Subject: no hard feelings
 To: Toy list Digest  I hope I didn't offend anyone. Sorry if I ran my lip.
 My Runner is my current "baby" and she does what I bought her to do
 very well. But there are tradeoffs.
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 20:20:42 -0900
 From: "David K. Walker"  Subject: Old cruiser/ '88 Runner
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org
 Hello, and thanks to all for the wealth of info...present and future.
 1) Without a lot of discussion, is there a non-clutch LS Diff that
 fits/adapts_to the '88 'Runner?
 And in particular, I have access to a "seventies" vintage Land
 Cruiser. Would the rear diff be of any use to me? And because my
 front end is independant, the Land Cruiser front end is of no val-
 ue to me?
 2) This Land Cruiser is maybe a '73 (guessing). I was one of the
 last to drive it, (neighbors plow truck) and the running gear is
 good. But the engine achieved termination about five years back
 and it has set ever since.
 Are the tranny, t-case and diffs worse for wear for having
 set? Short of tearing them down, what would be course of action for
 rehabilitating  these components.
 Would it be feasable to put an EFI engine in this rig. I am
 reasonably sure it has an inline six now.
 3)I am driving my 'Runner with hubs "in" and shift in and out of
 4W throughout the day. I will continue to do so through the win-
 ter,  until early to mid April. (yes, this is Alaska)
 What sort of long term maintance should I plan for my front run-
 ning gear? What repairs can I expect to inflict with this practice.
 These diffs are sad on this rig, and it needs all the help it
 can get. Even with studs on this and all season radials on my S-10,
 the S-10 blows this Toyota away for winter conditions. The Blazer
 is more stable on ice, churns through snow better, holds a corner
 better.
 You guys go play in the hills...I live it six months a year.
 The yota is like a sports car to drive, but watch yourself.^Z
 ------------------------------
 Date: Sat, 24 Jan 1998 16:02:16 -0700
 From: daves8@juno.com (DAVE SCHOENBERG)
 Subject: Old cruiser/ '88 Runner
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 I hear most guys put Chevy 350's in them.  I'm sure somebody on the list
 knows more about this than I do.
 Dave Schoenberg, Arvada, Colorado-----Who else gives advice like this???
 '81 Toy/'86 EFI engine/5-spd/xfer--an' I did it all myself, with NO
 Liquid Nails!!
 Brakes and heater both work exceedingly well, thank you.
 DaveS8@Juno.com
 On Fri, 23 Jan 1998 20:20:42 -0900 "David K. Walker"
 writes:
 ...........This Land Cruiser is maybe a '73 (guessing).  Would it be
 feasable to put an EFI engine in this rig. I am reasonably sure it has an
 inline six now.
 ------------------------------
 Date: Sat, 24 Jan 1998 01:32:47 -0800
 From: Kenneth Fong  Subject: Prices for Dynomax
 To: m.rowe@mail.utexas.edu, Toyota 4x4 List  This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
 - --------------681451B536175D3263E7D902
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
 $69 is ok for the muffler.  It's below suggested
 list price.
 The tailpipe is pretty expensive.  It's marked up
 a lot and over suggested list.
 Don't forget the inlet pipe which connects the
 cat.
 See if you can get the whole kit which is part
 number 17419 for 88-4/89 or 17418 for 4/89-93.  It
 comes with clamps and brackets.  You still need
 the inlet pipe, though.
 - -----------
 I was just quoted $69 for a Walker Dynomax muffler
 to go on a V6 4Runner.
 Plus $39 for a tail pipe. This seems pretty steep
 compared to the prices
 listed in the Exhaust archive. Is this too much or
 is it about right.
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 ------------------------------
 Date: Sat, 24 Jan 1998 17:29:23 -0800
 From: "Don M. West"  Subject: Re-post
 To: Toyota 4x4 mailing list  I didn't get any takers the first time around...hope you don't mind me
 reposting this.
 I have a stock rear bumper in perfect condition (it does have a CB antenna
 mount hole drilled in the left corner, but can be covered with a new
 plastic step plate that i also have). It's from my 94 p/u; I put on a tube
 rear bumper and don't need this one. Anyone interested, please E-mail me....
 ------------------------------
 Date: Sun, 25 Jan 1998 16:36:37 -0700
 From: Allan Davis  Subject: rear brake proportioning bracket
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org
 Can anyone tell me a little about the rear brake bracket that Downey,
 NWOR, et. al sells that is supposed to return braking to normal after
 lifting a truck?  I can't even see where it is supposed to attach on the
 truck.
 My OME kit did not include anything like this--is it really necessary?
 My brake pedal seems harder but the brakes still work fine.
 Thanks for any help.
 Allan
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 08:13:30 -0800
 From: Chris Geiger  Subject: rear brake proportioning bracket
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 The bracket bolts on between the proportioning valve arm and the pan hard
 rod. The one that came with my downey springs had 2 positions, one for 1.5"
 lift and the other for 3" lift.
 Many people find the rear breaks to be too weak compared to the front so
 many people remove the proportioning valve arm all together and tie up the
 valve to the top position to get as much breaking out of the rear as
 possible, I find this works great with my truck as I always carry my tools
 and spare parts so the back of my truck is a bit heavy. This may be too much
 on a pick-up with nothing in the bed. I have a picture of the proportioning
 valve tied up on my truck on my web page.
 Chris Geiger 93 4Runner http://geiger.mcl.ucsb.edu/offroad.html
 Allan Davis wrote:> Can anyone tell me a little about the rear brake bracket that Downey,> NWOR, et. al sells that is supposed to return braking to normal after> lifting a truck?  I can't even see where it is supposed to attach on the> truck.>> My OME kit did not include anything like this--is it really necessary?> My brake pedal seems harder but the brakes still work fine.>> Thanks for any help.>> Allan
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 00:11:35 EST
 From: DRM033  Subject: rear brake proportioning bracket
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 In a message dated 98-01-25 23:17:37 EST, you write:> I find this works great with my truck as I always carry my tools>  and spare parts so the back of my truck is a bit heavy. This may be too
 much>  on a pick-up with nothing in the bed.
 As a note:  I tied mine up and have better brakes.
 only small tool box, roll bar & spare tire in bed.
 - ---------------------------------------------------------------------
 David Moore                       DRM033@aol.com
 90 Toyota Truck - 4" ProComp, 33" Swampers,
 4.88's, rear ARB, TJM bumper & Ramsey #8000
 TLCA #5662
 Traxx In Motion 4 Wheel Drive Club
 - ---------------------------------------------------------------------
 ------------------------------
 Date: Sat, 24 Jan 1998 09:01:35 -0800
 From: "Todd and Terry Steele"  Subject: Salvage Yard list
 To: "Toyota Digest" , "Offroad Digest"  Sorry for the cross posting if you see this more than once.
 Someone posted a website for salvage yards by state, if you've still got
 that, can you send it direct to me.
 Thanks Todd
 His:  87 Toyota 4X4, Marlin Tcase #180, EZ Lockers F/R, Custom rear bumper
 and nerfs, Ramsey F bumper, Trailmaster/Superlift 4", 33-9.5 BFG MT's.
 Custom Body by Sierra Nevada.
 Hers:  93 Jeep Grand Cherokee, 4.0 I-6, 30-9.50-15 Bridgestone Dueler AT's.
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 19:34:22 -0800 (PST)
 From: rick99@jps.net (Rick Murray)
 Subject: signal rotor air gap
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org
 Jim Brink responded :>There is no need to adjust the air gap unless the signal generator has>been replaced. The adjustment slots are there to get the signal>generator close enough to spec during replacement. The mechanic was>correct, they do not wear or go out of adjustment. I have never found>one to be bad due to incorrect gap.>>Used to be that the generator and distributor had to be replaced as a>unit. Now the pieces are available separately. When assembled, the>signal generator and distributor are a matched set. If the gap is a bit>off spec., it is due to manufacturing and set-up.
 That makes perfect sense.  But I can't help wonder why it is off so
 much (.024").  The manual specifies to first check and adjust this gap,
 if necessary , before timing the ignition.
 I'm sure the signal generator is OK, perhaps it has been out-of-adjustment
 since new, or since it was replaced by a previous owner.  Would I be taking
 a very big risk in re-adjusting it back to specs  to insure optimum timing ?
 I understand that I need to use a brass feeler gauge to do it properly, since
 the stationary piece is magnetic.
 ##################################################################
 Rick Murray                                22R motor ; 3-inch lift
 84 Toyota 4Runner SR5                    33" BFG M/Ts ; 4.88 gears
 Rancho Cordova, Ca.                   Rancho 9000's ; on-board air
 http://www.jps.net/rick99/             Marlin TCase #67 ; TRD LSD
 ##################################################################
 ------------------------------
 Date: Sat, 24 Jan 1998 21:25:54 EST
 From: TXPakRat  Subject: Ssstttttuuuuutttttteeeeerrrrriiiinnnnnggggg   Truck
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 First, I will appologize up front for the length of this.  Second, I will
 thank everyone up front for whatever help is offered.
 I have a '90 4Runner SR5 V6 with Jacobs OmniPak, Jacobs 8.5mm wires,
 Downey Air Intake System, Borla Cat-back Exhaust, 5spd manual, stock 4.10
 gears, 32" BFG AT's, synthetic oil (engine, tranny, x-fer, diffs), 88,000
 miles, and the headgasket was replaced at 82,000.
 For the last few years, my 4Runner has periodically experienced a
 "stutter."  It has come and gone a few times.  It was never bad and just
 barely noticable.  It feels almost like driving over a washboard road.  A
 front to back / up and down kind of feeling.  Well, it started again a couple
 of months ago.  Again, just barely noticable.  The miss happens pretty much at
 all speeds.  You really can't feel in at idle (a friend said he could feel it
 "missing" with his hand on the top of the engine . .  I couldn't tell!).  The
 worst is under light to moderate load between 1500 and 2500 rpm.  It is not a
 hesitation or side to side shaking (i.e., not the tires or shocks).  It
 happens in all gears, but you feel it the most in 2, 3, and 4.  There has been
 no noticable power loss.  If I floor it when it is bucking, I can pick up
 speed pretty easy (although it continues to buck noticably up to 2500).  If I
 am pushing for speed and popping thru the gears, I really don't feel it.  It
 is getting pretty annoying!  I have one road that I travel to and from work
 on.  I am on it for about 7 miles.  Part of it is 45, part is 35.  I can drive
 at 35 in 3rd gear (above 2500) or 4th (below 2000).  45 is pretty much the
 same story with 4th and 5th.  Since traffic is usually at or slightly above
 the speed limit, I don't need the power, so I keep the rpms kinda low.  If it
 is stuttering and I push in the clutch, the stutter stops (not noticable,
 anyway!).
 Soon after it started this time, I had to replace my clutch (it was
 slipping bad!).  I put in a Downey SuperClutch (wow, what a difference!).  The
 install went fine and it REALLY clamps (but pedal feel didn't change).  I did
 not resurface the flywheel.  It was not scored and had no black marks.  My
 friend cleaned the surface a bit with a fine grit sand paper on an orbital
 sander.  The weekend after, I changed the oil and rotated my tires.  Well, the
 stuttering started getting worse and worse.  Then my mpg started dropping.  I
 was averaging around 17-18 (city).  It suddenly dropped to 14-15.  Here is
 what I have done over the last few weeks:
 1.  Disconnected the battery overnight to "reset" the computer - no
 change.
 2.  I put new plugs in (.055 for the Jacobs), the old plugs looked
 fine (just worn), checked the plug wires - no change.
 3.  I checked the timing, dead on - no change
 4.  Tried the plug gap at .060, and at .045 - no change.
 5.  Bypassed the Jacobs and went back to the stock coil, put in second
 set of new plugs (gapped at .032) - no change.
 6.  Rechecked the wires for breaks, burns, resistance, everything was
 fine - no change.
 7.  Checked cap and rotor, a little corrosion, but not bad, no cracks;
 cleaned contacts - no change.
 8.  Replaced cap and rotor - no change.
 9.  Ran STP Complete Engine Cleaner - no change.
 10.  Checked each wire for miss by using a timing light on each one,
 seems fine.
 Thru this whole thing, I have checked the codes (check engine light)
 before and after each change.  It blinks steady with no codes.
 I have not checked anything to do with the fuel system.  In the past, with
 other vehicles, whenever I had a fuel problem (clogged line or filter, water
 in the system, etc.) I had a problem with hesitation or power loss.  I have
 had no loss in power and experienced no hesitation.  The friend who helped me
 put in the clutch is an ex-GM mechanic.  He hasn't got a lot of experience
 with Toy's, but thinks that it is an ignition problem.  I have not actually
 checked the stock coil, because I had the problem with the Jacobs connected,
 too.
 I am limited in my mechanic's ability!   I would appreciate any advice.  I
 am ready to pull out my hair (what's left anyway :-) ).
 Well, now that I have cried on your collective shoulders :-{  I will let
 you go!
 Bob
 "THE Texas Pack Rat"
 TXPakRat@aol.com
 ------------------------------
 Date: Sat, 24 Jan 1998 22:28:11 -0600
 From: "Michael Rowe"  Subject: Ssstttttuuuuutttttteeeeerrrrriiiinnnnnggggg   Truck
 To:  - -----Original Message-----
 From: TXPakRat >    For the last few years, my 4Runner has periodically experienced a>"stutter."  It has come and gone a few times.  It was never bad and just>barely noticable.  It feels almost like driving over a washboard road.  A>the speed limit, I don't need the power, so I keep the rpms kinda low.  If
 it>is stuttering and I push in the clutch, the stutter stops (not noticable,>anyway!).
 |From your description and symptoms (ie. no computer codes, etc. and the fact
 that it dissipates when putting the clutch in) it seems to be a purely
 mechanical/physical problem unrelated to the engine itself. My only clue is
 that since you've checked tires/shocks and the engine runs fine (a hand on
 top of the engine can't distinguish between a vibration caused by missing
 and one cause by a driveline/tranny problem), your problem lies entirely in
 your driveline from the transmission to transfer to drive shafts to
 differential and axles. Start investigating those areas. Since your
 driveshaft and axles don't turn when you are parked, and I'm assuming it
 still stutters from the hand on engine test, your vibration lies in the
 tranny or transfer case based on elimination. I have an auto and no one I
 know with the manual has this problem. Hopefully someone else on the list
 has more experience in tracking down this type of problem.
 Hope this helps get you started in a more fulfilling search for your
 ssstttuuuttttteeeerrrrrr.
 Michael Rowe
 ps. you did a real bad no-no when you opted not to resurface the flywheel.
 Flywheels are like, ummm, well, like a pair of shoes. Ever put on someone
 elses shoes/boots for an emergency? They don't fit you too well usually.
 After a clutch has been used with a flywheel the flywheel develops
 characteristics specific to that particular clutch. I would only opt for not
 resurfacing if I were in a third world country and didn't have the resources
 to do it.
 ------------------------------
 Date: Sun, 25 Jan 1998 21:05:26 EST
 From: RONW626  Subject: Stadium Race
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 I was watching a Monster truck competition on TNN this morning and
 they had a class for regular trucks to race on the same obstacle course.
 There were several custom Bronco's and some short bed Ford's and Chevy's, one
 even had a 454 in it.  Well there was also a '84 Toyota Xtra cab with a flat
 bed on it that tore them all up in the first round!  On top of that it was a
 totally stock 4 cylinder 4x4.  He gave the crowd two great runs but did
 finally get beat and took second place.  I thought it was incredible how well
 a stock Toy ran with all the rest, and there were several jumps in the
 obstacle course.
 _____
 /_/_|_\__       Ron Waddle
 |  _     _  :I     '90 4Runner SR5 V6
 */_\----/_\'       Bartlesville, OK
 (_)    (_)        http://members.aol.com/RONW626/index.html
 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
 ------------------------------
 Date: Sat, 24 Jan 1998 01:02:30 EST
 From: JC VR 4  Subject: Steven's Creek Toyota
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 THE SERVICE DEPARTMENT IS A JOKE!  I do not recommend you EVER bring
 your car there....EVER!!  The problem is mainly with the Service
 Writters.  They are a bunch of spineless liars who will say anything
 that comes to them...whether its true or not doesn't matter.
 Are there anyother service stations in the Bay Area (I'm in Pleasanton) that
 give discounts to TLCA members?  I want to get my Timing chain done soon
 before it snaps on me.
 Thanks Joey
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 23:47:00 -0800
 From: Scott Wilson  Subject: Steven's Creek Toyota
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 JC VR 4 wrote:> Are there anyother service stations in the Bay Area (I'm in Pleasanton) that> give discounts to TLCA members?  I want to get my Timing chain done soon> before it snaps on me.
 Nope.  Sorry.
 Yarnells in Mt View is an excellent shop though.   Tell Dale I sent you
 if you go in...
 Scott
 - --
 _____
 /_/_|_\__      Scott Wilson
 | _     _ :     Santa Clara, CA
 */_\---/_\'     http://www.off-road.com/~swilson
 (_)   (_)
 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
 ------------------------------
 Date: Sun, 25 Jan 1998 12:02:33 EST
 From: TXPakRat  Subject: STOCK AIR BOX
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
<> I replaced my stock air intake with a Downey system a few years back.  I think
 I still have it in a box in my shed.  It is from a '90 4Runner V6.  Drop me a
 line if you want it (or anyone else for that matter).  I priced a new one once
 at a dealership.  You can only get the entire intake system (air box, two
 muffler boxes and tubes) and it costs about $400.
 Just let me know if you (or anyone) wants it . . . first come, first serve,
 you pay shipping.
 I also have the stock rear, heavy rubber mud flaps with 4x4 printed on them
 (dealer wants about $40 each).  I took them off at about 30,000 miles, so they
 are in really good shape.  Same deal!!!
 Oh, by the way, donations are accepted!   :-)
 Bob
 "THE Texas Pack Rat"
 '90 4Runner SR5 V6 with more mods than I can list here!!!
 TXPakRat@aol.com
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 22:36:41 -0700
 From: Brian Rishaw  Subject: Tacoma Rear Bumper
 To: Toyota 4x4 Digest-posting  Matt Barker,
 Try Brown's Toyota City (800-848-4451) in Glen Burnie, MD.  They're a
 Toyota dealer that discounts at least 20% through mail order.
 - --Brian Rishaw
 ------------------------------
 Date: Sat, 24 Jan 1998 02:29:32 -0500 (EST)
 From: Leonardo DiCaprio  Subject: Tacoma Rear Bumper
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org> 	Try Brown's Toyota City (800-848-4451) in Glen Burnie, MD.  They're a> Toyota dealer that discounts at least 20% through mail order.
 Is the 20% through mail order ONLY?  I live 30 minutes from Glen Burnie...
 I've never really had to buy any parts for my Toy - but I wanna change my
 cap, rotor & ign. wires and I like the OEM equipment too.
 Doug Berger
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 23 Jan 98 19:11:32 PST
 From: "ROBINS"  Subject: Toy4x4 Digest V1 #671
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 PLEASE SIGN ME UP FOR TOY 4X4 DIGEST
 - ----------
 ------------------------------
 Date: Sun, 25 Jan 1998 20:52:08 -0800
 From: Scott Wilson  Subject: Truck Hill -almost- claims another
 To: Toy4x4 List  Yeah.....ME!   I'll tell you up front though...there are no pictures to
 be seen on my web page.  Mark and I forgot our cameras today.  ;-(   The
 best action of the day was captured on video though, so as soon as I get
 a copy of the tape I'll have some pics for my web page.
 Mark and I made him some custom spring packs yesterday.  Removed his
 'firm' add-a-leaf and added the extra #3 leaves I had laying around,
 then added some extended length shackles.  We wanted to see the results
 of our work so we headed down to Hollister this afternoon, just for an
 hour or two.
 The spring packs work great!  Marks rear axle articulates remarkable
 well now.  I'm used to watching his truck since I wheel with him
 often...with this new found wheel travel he kept the wheels on the
 ground and therefore had considerably more traction.  He really made
 short work of the frame twister today.
 The park has at its worst today.  With all the rain this area has seen
 in the last month Hollister Hills looked remarkably different.  Four
 Wheeler should hold their Tough Truck Competition this time of
 year...then they could really put the vehicles to the test.  I drove the
 park 2 weeks after the competition this last summer so I remember what
 it was like....what I saw today was easily 150% harder in many places.
 Mark and I were working our way toward the obstacle course, I was
 negotiating a big ol' rain rut and stalled the truck.  I tried to
 restart it, but it wouldn't.  I think I have a MAJOR short in my +
 battery cable.    This happened to me the other day, and after wiggling
 the battery cables it started.   I guess today it shorted for a minute
 the then was back...but somehow the alarm got confused and armed
 itself.  I tried to get out of the car, and then the alarm went off!  It
 wouldn't shut off either!  I popped the hood, grabbed a wrench, and had
 to stand right infront of that stupid siren while I tried to get the
 cable off. (mean while 2 16 yr old kids in a Chevy are laughing at
 me)(it's ok...I know it must have been hilareous to watch :-)
 Anyway...put the cable back on the all has returned to normal.  Good.
 Mark and I head to the Frame Twister to see his springs in action.
 There we meet Tom who is driving a YJ.  Nice guy, and he decides to tag
 along as we go to find some more challenging stuff.
 We head to Truck Hill and take the trail with lots of deep whoop-de-doos
 filled with water to get there.  Truck Hill looks NASTY today...it was
 begging me to tame it...so I took it up on the challenge.  It had
 MASSIVE rain ruts all over it, some as much as 3.5-4" deep.  It was a
 tough ride up...but then nearly half way up it got worse....much worse.
 Without warning the front end bounces HARD to the right!  I'm on the
 brakes at the first notion of side movement, but it does no good.  The
 truck slides WAY too far over and I'm now pointed about 45 degrees to
 the right instead of straight up the hill.  I don't have a
 clinometer...so I can't tell you how steep truck hill is in
 general...but if you take into consideration the deep ruts and dips it
 gets up around 70-75 degrees at some points.
 The front left wheel lifted more than 2' in the air, and as the truck
 came to a stop, it settled down to a measly 12" off the ground...measly
 if you're on level ground maybe....but on Truck Hill, this is BAAAAD
 news!
 With Mark perched on my front left tire it was safe for me to get
 out...so I got out and assessed the situation.  Lucky for me there was a
 smooth crest of another hill, that joins up with Truck Hill only 15' or
 so from where I am.  I get Tom to drive his YJ up onto it and snatch my
 front end with a tow strap.  Now at least my chances of rolling have
 been diminished considerably.
 I go to start the truck to get out of this 'situation'  and NOTHING
 HAPPENS!!  No power...anywhere.  Oh sh*t.  I pop the hood and get Mark
 to check everything out, but everything is in order...it still wont'
 start.   Finally something he did makes my phone (which is hooked up to
 charge) beep...so I know something he did just got power to it.  I yell
 at him to do it again...and eventually we get it so it is working 100%.
 yippy.  (Thanks Mark!)   I have to believe that the short is another
 bi-product of Steven's Creek Toyota's work..because it never did it
 before they remvoed the battery while doing the engine rebuild.
 I give it some gas with the wheel cranked, and becasue of the tension on
 the tow strap, the 4runner straightens right out.  yeah!  But its not
 over yet.
 Dan (Tom's passenger) scouts ahead, and tells me the trail worsens.  He
 says I could probably make it, but if I did get into trouble I wouldn't
 have a nice 'side road' that somebody to could pull up and rescue me
 from.  None of the other vehicles around were locked, and they had 31"
 tires also...I know from experience that when truck hill is at its best
 it takes more than 31's to negotiate it, and when its in this condition
 35's would be my choice.  ;-)
 I decide to try and get another 30 foot up the hill and try to back down
 and over so I can get on that 'side road' that Tom had tugged me from.
 I must have tried 10 times, but with the loose dirt, and steep, sloped
 hill it was pulling me toward the large rain rust every time.  I
 couldn't get the truck over where I wanted it to safely back it onto the
 'side-road.'
 We all agree I should try to make it over the top becuase I'd be
 entirely on my own... I'm now gonna have to back down the nasty piece of
 trail that nearly tossed me when I was trying it in the 'sane'
 direction.  :-)    Lucky for me (sarcastic) my brakes had not dried
 entirely from the water I'd gone through getting to Truck Hill, so
 control in braking was a non-existing thing at the moment.
 At most gyms I can leg press the entire stack on the non-free weight
 machines.  My legs are much stronger than 'average.'  At times I was
 pressing that brake pedal so hard I feared it breaking...but I could
 still hear the load groans of the brakes as they continued to slip.
 That was the scariest thing I've ever experienced (well...almost)  but
 little did I know, that was noting compared to what I was about to
 experience.
 With ample spotting I began to negotiate backward.  The slightest
 mistake, or slip will put you in a really BAD position.  Several times
 during the negotiating backwards the brakes would not hold and I'd end
 up with a front tire 2+ feet in the air as I come to a stop, and then
 settle back down to a foot or so off the ground.  Everytime I wondered
 if it would stop before sending me over.
 My seatbelt was VERY much locked, so I couldn't lean out to see where
 the tires were or anything.  I was relying VERY much on Tom and Mark to
 spot.  Only when I had the truck perfectly straight was it safe enough
 to put it in gear and get out.
 It was in one of these "trusting" times that Tom told me to turn the
 wheel to the left and let it roll back.   I turned the wheel to the
 left, moved back....AND ROLL IT DID!!   No questions...it was GOING
 you'd have to talk to Mark to find out how far the front end came
 up...but I know it was FAAAAARRR and it happened outrageously fast!  I
 can't wait to see the video myself...
 Instinct kicked in and I popped the clutch, with the pedal flooooored,
 while I spun the steering wheel all the way around as fast as I could!
 Now I'm probably wondering if I was better off rolling!  :-) (no...not
 really)  But here I am speeding down the nastiest hill around just
 praying I can keep it pointed DOWN the hill.  I get it straight and
 immediately SLAM on the brakes...which doesn't have the reaction it
 should, cause like I told you...the brakes are still moist.  :-(
 The thing that really got me slowed down was smashing the right corner
 of my rear bumper, both tires/wheels/hubs, and the body panel just
 forward of the brake light into the far side of a rain rut that was
 about 4" deep.  The truck came to a stop about 5ft behind where I
 smashed the body.
 I got stopped...and in gear...and got out for a loooong breather.  The
 damage really isn't bad at all.  I can get in through both the storage
 compartment, and the brake light housing to push the sheet metal back
 out.  The thing that kept it from being really bad damage is, it hit
 right where the side is reinforced.  So basically I ended up with two
 shallow dents diveded by a nice crease.  The crease is where the side is
 reinforced.  The paint will clean up...but will always have Deeeep
 scratches.
 |From here on the decent went much smoother.  I was now nearing the base
 of the hill so it was gradually getting less steep and easier to
 control.  I got safely to the bottom, and we shot for the exit of the
 park...Mark was now VERY VERY late for his Superbowl party.  :-)
 PLEASE, PLEASE, PLEASE....if you are ever spotting for someone...be sure
 of yourself.   Now that it's all said and done I can see why Tom gave me
 the advice he did, and had me turn the wheel the wrong way.....he never
 looked at the other side of my truck!!  If he had, he would have seen
 the DEEP rut my right rear was about to fall into and wouldn't have told
 me to drop into it sideways.
 If you're going to help someone out who's in trouble...don't half ass
 it.  Do your job.  If Tom had done his job correctly I wouldn't have a
 smashed up body panel.
 Don't get me wrong...Tom is now a friend, and I'm am Truely grateful to
 he and Mark for helping me get off that hill.  Thanks again Mark.
 As soon as I get the video and get it on my web page I'll let you guys
 know...
 Scott
 - --
 _____
 /_/_|_\__      Scott Wilson
 | _     _ :     Santa Clara, CA
 */_\---/_\'     http://www.off-road.com/~swilson
 (_)   (_)
 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
 ------------------------------
 Date: Sat, 24 Jan 1998 23:37:37 -0600
 From: lynn@cvtv.net
 Subject: Unsubscribe information
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Please tell me how to unsubscribe to this mailing list. My son set this up
 and is not using this computer any more. Thank you.
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 15:49:37 -0800 (PST)
 From: Jonathan Albrecht  Subject: What engine is in an 80 SR5
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org> 5 speed.  The Canadian models were more a work / bush truck then> anything else. It's harder around here to even find a 1/2 ton 4x4> model, we all have the 3/4 4x4 version. The only five speed trannys> around here came up from the states.
 What's different/stronger between the 3/4 and 1/2 versions?
 _______
 Jonathan Albrecht                      __.           /_/__|__\__
 albr9619@uidaho.edu                 __/__|\___       |_.--.__,--;
 http://www.uidaho.edu/~albr9619    :--.__|.--.|,---- ~'(__)'`(__)
 `'`'`''`'`'`''``'`'`'`'`''`'`'``'`
 ------------------------------
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