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Toy4x4 Mailing List Digest v1n673

Publish date: Dec 1, 2005
By: ORC STAFF
Source: Off-Road.com

Toy4x4 Digest Fri, 23 Jan 98 12:30:02 (HST) Volume 1 : Issue 673
Today's Topics:
ADMIN: Re: Email Changes, SPAM, UCE/UBE and clues for all.
Braking
Combining Lift Kits
Diesel Engine to Toyota Land Cruiser 98?
Diffs are in!
Email Changes, SPAM, UCE/UBE and clues for all.
engine conversion
For Sale: power rear window
Fried morning
front spring question
Hard start Hot (2 msgs)
Headers
K&N Air Filters
Lockers on Ice, experience
low fuel light
Milage (3 msgs)
Mud Kings vs. BFG MTs (2 msgs)
My P.O.S Truck...
PRESS RELEASE:
Prices
Reply about 86 oil pan leak from owner
Steven's Creek Toyota
T100 radio and speaker removal
Tacoma Rear Bumper
vented disk swap: better stops? (2 msgs)
Web Page has moved
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 11:25:30 -0800
From: Scott Wilson Subject: ADMIN: Re: Email Changes, SPAM, UCE/UBE and clues for all.
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Patrick J. Chicas wrote:> 1) Our primary mail exchange machine is now "rubicon", which was "unix".> This affects email addressed to "address@off-road.com". Properly> addressed posts to all mail lists at off-road.com should not be> affected as they should always be addressed to> "listname@unix.off-road.com" or "listname@lists.off-road.com".>> 2) Off-road.com continues to take a firm stance on SPAM and UCE/UBE> (unsollicted commercial and bulk email). The list of denied sites> numbers near 1900 in total. When an email is denied due to this> exception process, an alternate email for complaints and or> contact is included in the message sent back as acknowledgement> of reciept. I have promptly answered each message sent to this> address.
Nobody panic. And nobody send me silly e-mails asking what all this
means. THIS DOES NOT EFFECT OUR LIST...continue to send your posts to
toy4x4@tlca.org as normal.
The above message is for the lists running on Majordomo. Sometime
before the end of February we will be switching the list over to
Majordomo, but details will be made know as they are necessary.
For now....NOTHING CHANGES. :-)
Scott Wilson
LIST ADMIN
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 09:22:18 -0500
From: "Eli Madden" Subject: Braking
To: toy4x4@tlca.org
Runar wrote-
******************************
Hey Jay, You do know you are not suposed to drive like this.... People have gotten themselves killed this way.....:-((
Use the gears, and stay away from the brakes....
*****************************
Runar-
He has an automatic!
On this topic, does anybody know what makes Land Rover's
automatic so special? It's supposed to do full compression braking.
Eli
emadden@inacom-vt.com
'83 SR5 Shortbed 4x4 Pickup
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 12:18:58 EST
From: DRM033 Subject: Combining Lift Kits
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
In a message dated 98-01-23 01:39:54 EST, you write:> Has anyone combined pieces from different IFS lift kits? I have Rancho> control arms, centerlink, and tie rods. I'm considering adding some pieces> of the Trail Master to get another 3" or so. I suspect everything should> work fine, but I'd like some input.
I haven't done it, but I have been thinking about it since i first got on this
list (any of you remember that far back?). I still say in theory, since
most(pro comp for sure) 4" lifts only replicate the stock geometry and
mounting points at a lower place, the Rancho lift will work. I am not sure
about 3" more inches though, you may need new T bars to crank in the full
amount, and ball joints may limit that.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 11:57:56 -0000
From: runars@isbank.is
Subject: Diesel Engine to Toyota Land Cruiser 98?
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Better of who?
There is just one Dielsel engine for Land Cruisers, or am I wrong...
Or are you talking about Turbo/non Turbo....?
Runar.> -----Original Message-----> From: Antonio J. GONZM-ALEZ-FERNM-ANDEZ [SMTP:angonfer@telcel.net.ve]> Sent: Sunday, June 29, 1997 3:40 AM> To: Toy4x4@tlca.org> Subject: Diesel Engine to Toyota Land Cruiser 98?>> Esteemed Friends of Toy4x4:>> I write from Venezuela in order to ask:>> Who it is the better Diesel motor for a Toyota> Land Cruiser? Its original motor is a 4500 - 24 val.>> Thank you ahead of time for their attention. sincerely>> Antonio J. Gonzalez-Fernandez> ==========================================> Centro de InvestigaciM-sn y Manejo de Fauna - MANFAUNA> Reserva Privada de Naturaleza MATACLARA> ----------------------> angonfer@telcel.net.ve> ==========================================
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 11:23:38 -0500
From: Ed.Wong@astramerck.com
Subject: Diffs are in!
To: knight@atmos.albany.edu, Toy4x4@tlca.org
Hey - I can actually talk *FIRST HAND* on this one!
There IS a difference in handling feel between
- a open diff, hubs locked and in 2WD
- a TruTrac diff, hubs locked and in 2WD
The TruTrac will feel like it has MUCH MORE drag
on the front wheels than an open diff does.
It will also have a "return to center" type
action. The steering wheel will want to go
straight. This gets weird on highways where the
road surface is banked/crowned. It feels like the
front end alignment is out cause you drive with
the wheel cranked over a tad.
Mind you - the effect is noticible at first, and
then you get used to it real fast.
In many ways - it feels like driving a
front wheel drive car - except the wheels are not
driven.
The reason is that the TruTrac still tries to
bias the traction between the two wheels EVEN
though the wheels are being dragged and not driven.
The inherent design of a TruTrac (or Torsen or Quaiffe
which are differnt in engineering execution,
but similar in design goals) is that the wheels sense
the total available traction *at that wheel* and then
the diff feeds them exactly the max amount.
What this means is that the diff *knows* how much
torqe *each wheel* can take before "breaking loose /
spinning" and feeds in just enough torque so
that the wheel with less traction will NOT spin.
It then feeds the reaminder of the torque to the other
wheel unitl the wheel *more* traction is just about
to spin. In the driver continues to increase the
torque input (via the right foot) - both tyres
will break loose - simultaneously.
Dont ask how the diff *knows* this stuff - it does
and it works.
This whole thing sounds like the coolest diff
action possible - and it is - for vehicles that
have *some* traction on both wheels at all times.
When one wheel is "in the air" (you RokCrawler
know this!) the diff is basicaly confused and spits
all the torque out of the wheel that is in the air -
just like an open diff. Careful application of the
brakes can "fool" the diff into biasing most of the
avail traction to the other wheel.
There was an "ultimate" diff. Sadly, its no longer
made.
It worked like a Detroit Locker in the straight -
both axles were LOCKED together - at all times.
Put one wheel in the air and the axles were still
locked, just like a Detroit.
But in corners, it was magic - it acted like a Torsen
(i.e.TruTrac) When going around corners, it did
not lock/unlock like a Detroit did, it *biased* the
torque loads like a Torsen does. If you dropped one
wheel into the air while going around a turn -
the axles locked again unitl traction returned.
The locking mechanism was via rollers and *not*
via dogleg clutches (like the detroit). Therfore
the locking action was *very smooth* - no bang/pow.
w.j.markerink@a1.nl had built a great site describing
traction diffs and how they work - in particular
their advantages and disadvantages for different types
of terrain. A good place to understand what the difference
is between a clutch type LSD and a gear type torque
proportioning device (TPD - note that I did not call
a TruTrac an LSD)
EWong>>>> OK, True Trak is the gear LSD right?
Can I put one in front and drive all winter with the front
hubs locked, but usually in 2WD?
If I do, will it make any difference in handling compared
to driving an open front diff with hubs locked in 2WD?
I wouldn't think so, but, would like to hear first hand from
somebody doing this.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 07:39:55 -1000 (HST)
From: "Patrick J. Chicas" Subject: Email Changes, SPAM, UCE/UBE and clues for all.
To: "David E. Jones" , thumporl@unix.off-road.com,
On Fri, 23 Jan 1998, David E. Jones wrote:> Will the xj-list@unix.off-road.com be effected? Some guys are being> knocked off the list and think it is deliberate. It may be and for valid> reason for all I know?? However, it would be a shame to change email> paths and kill a list that is alive.
Greetings,
Dave, here is the sccop. I am sending it to most all mail lists on ORC.
1) Our primary mail exchange machine is now "rubicon", which was "unix".
This affects email addressed to "address@off-road.com". Properly
addressed posts to all mail lists at off-road.com should not be
affected as they should always be addressed to
"listname@unix.off-road.com" or "listname@lists.off-road.com".
2) Off-road.com continues to take a firm stance on SPAM and UCE/UBE
(unsollicted commercial and bulk email). The list of denied sites
numbers near 1900 in total. When an email is denied due to this
exception process, an alternate email for complaints and or
contact is included in the message sent back as acknowledgement
of reciept. I have promptly answered each message sent to this
address.
I hope this helps.
Take care
PJC
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 23 Jan 98 11:53:02 -0600
From: bwiencek@kcnet.com
Subject: engine conversion
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
On Thu, 22 Jan 1998, "Wilbur M. Yegge" wrote:>tranny..adapter headers...YEE HAWWW!!!...ok i am stumped on a few things>though..like what should i do about my alternator??..buy a braket and use>the stock Toy model?..or splice into my electrical system and use the gm>model(I know theres gonna be plenty of wiring to be done)
Either way it's an easy hook-up... If it were me I'd use the alternator that
came on the engine if it's there, otherwise the adapter is an easy bolt-on w/
no wiring.>Another thing i want NO part of is fuel infestation...this motor has a>dirty lookin tbi setup...thats gotta go...anybody know who makes an intake>and carb for a 4.3? im lookin at usin a 390 2bbl.
Well, Chevy (GM) makes a 2bbl & a 4 bbl manifold for their carbs. They came
on early trucks and on a lot of Boat engines (still do as a matter of fact).
Edelbrock also makes an aftermarket manifold. Do you have access to all the
wiring and the computer for the TBI setup? I'd use it if I were you, or I'd
buy it from you if it's fairly complete.> Any thoughts on those>aftermarket radiators with the built in tranny coolers?..thats the one im>leanin towards with a small in-line secondary cooler>just to be safe.
That's what I'm using and it works great so far from towing in 92-95 degree
heat to the freezing cold we have now. I'm using the advance adapters
radiator and a summit racing 24,000 lb rated cooler on the return line.
Good luck with the swap...
- - Brian
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 23 Jan 98 10:58:12 EST
From: keb@HQ.ileaf.com (Kristin Brown)
Subject: For Sale: power rear window
To: toy4x4@off-road.com
hi all,
posting this for a friend who ended up not needing this after all..
(doesnt have the truck any more).
Power rear window for a standard cab toyota pickup. Fits '84-'87.
Asking $200. This one goes up and down, not sideways.
Drop me an email if interested..
thanks,
keb
keb@interleaf.com
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 23 Jan 98 11:53:31 -0600
From: bwiencek@kcnet.com
Subject: Fried morning
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org, loki@crestedbutte.net>>>the start position as she walked away from the started truck. 10 minutes>>>later I go out to find the truck stalled, stinking of electrical>>>> Good luck with the repairs.>Every thing seems to be ok now, new rebuilt starter droped right in>there. it took longer than ussual to start, blew some brown smoke for a>while and now runs just like before. Thanks for the advice Brian, now I>need to lube up the ignition like you said. no help for the fish though.
Well, glad to hear it was easy - as for what the other person suggested, I'd
be careful about using wd-40 for anything but the cleaning - when it
evaporates it gets real gummy. The graphite lock lube does work good, and is
probably the best for this - I totally forgot about it.
- - Brian
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 14:18:53 -0700
From: "Jay Kopycinski" Subject: front spring question
To: Toyota 4x4 List Darren Floen wrote:
Warning.....rambling mode on......spring discussion......
snip>There are considerable advantages to using a
flat spring and i think this is the only way to go for good ride and
travel.
Yes, flat springs work well. You essentially start at a neutral point
and then bend the spring from there. Your droop capability is
much better with a flat spring as opposed to an arched spring
because the flat spring can bend into an arch for more down travel.
The arched spring has already used up much of its useable spring
length in the arch itself. Flatter springs also typically have better
upward travel too by the mere fact that they are generally a lighter
spring rate and allow you to use all your travel up to the bumpstops.
Not well said....but hopefully somewhat understandable.
Now....flat springs generally work better on Jeeps due to the frame
design. Toyotas tend to need more spring arch for good lift heights.
The Mazda spring swap, for example, uses fairly flat packs that
do not offer lots of lift. However, with the lowered forward spring
mount and longer rear shackles 3+ inches of lift is possible.>Jay any details to share on your front springs?How come its not>on your page??? :-)
Dunno why it's not on my page. I've been running them for about
a year now and wasn't sure how well they would work. IM-^Rm pretty
pleased with 'em at this point. Here's what I did........
I'm running a homebrew five leaf pack up front. The main leaf
is a mid 70s Datsun 2WD main leaf (0.280" I think). This leaf
is about 1.25" or so longer than the POS NWOR springs I removed.
BTW.....they're for sale to anyone that wants 'em......cheap.
Under that is the military wrap second leaf from a Downey 3" lift
rear spring. This fit on the Datsun leaf just fine. All I had to do was
redrill the center pin hole on the Downey leaf. I wanted the military
wrap leaf for extra strength in the main, and as a safety factor.
Following this leaf are three other leaves from either the Downey
rear packs or Mazda packs. They are progessively shorter with the
bottom leaf fairly short.
These springs work well. They are nice and flexy. One problem
is that my 2M-^T over shackles lean back a bit too much. This is due
to the added pack length. IM-^Rll be fixing this....more later. I have
my front axle relocated 1M-^T forward from stock and my fender tails
trimmed a fair bit, but still find my 33M-^T BFG Muds in the fender
on occasion. With the laid back shackles and longer, flatter
springs, I have MUCH more droop than the front steering system
and short driveshaft is capable of handling. I run limit straps
because of this. I need to do steering and driveshaft mods to
fix this.
As I said, IM-^Rve run these springs for about a year now and have
run quite a number of hard core trails with them. One thing I would
have liked to have tried is six leaves on the front. I would have
removed the short, lower leaf and replaced it with two longer leaves.
I think this might provide even better pack strength and road
stability, while still keeping them flexy. I could not do this because
as the pack grows in thickness, it starts to interfere with the lower
end of the draglink...actually the draglink would hit the u-bolt.
When I did the swap, I lost about 1M-^T of lift. I do want that inch back,
but I donM-^Rt want to give up my flatter springs. IM-^Rve decided to drop
my front spring mounts about 2.5M-^T. IM-^Rve built a crossmember with
new spring hangers. It is setup to accomodate up to 2.5M-^T wide
springs (more spring possibilities).
This wonM-^Rt increase my front approach angle at the springs, but
will give me the frame/body lift I want. Since IM-^Rve wheeled with
the current lift for a year I am now satisfied I will be fine with the
lower front mounts.
At the same time as I drop the mounts, I will be moving the springs
(and axle) forward an additional inch. this should help with the
fender rubbing problems. Moving the axle wonM-^Rt be possible
though until I come up with some other steering system that
can handle the new geometry. The dropped front mount will
also allow me to remove the 3 degree shims I currently run.
Probably way more than you wanted to know...but oh well.....
Comments always welcome :-)
Jay Kopycinski M-^Q85 Toylet (ROKTOY)
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 07:00:28 -0500
From: Ed Ruf Subject: Hard start Hot
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
At 10:57 PM 1/22/98 -0800, Jay Biery illustriously expounded:>I have an 85 SR-5, 22R-E, EFI. I have a very consistant hard start>problem. When the truck is hot, and sits for 15-45 minutes, the first>time you turn the engine over it wont start. You could have the motor turn>over till the battery dies but it will not fire. However, if you let the>motor turnover a few revolutions, cycle the ingnition,(key back to on, then>start), it fires instantly. I do not even know where to start looking for>this problem. Any thoughts will help, thanks. -Jay
Been there, done that. Well known 22R-E problem. You need to replace the
cold start timer switch. The newer ones have a revised temperature vs
resistance spec. One thing to bear in mind, Jim Brink mentioned that the
revised ones are apparently spec'd somewhat different for different areas
of the US, so you might want to make sure you get one from an area with the
same climate as where you live.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 10:22:43 EST
From: JC VR 4 Subject: hard start hot
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
I have an 85 SR-5, 22R-E, EFI. I have a very consistant hard start
problem. When the truck is hot, and sits for 15-45 minutes, the first
time you turn the engine over it wont start. You could have the motor turn
over till the battery dies but it will not fire. However, if you let the
motor turnover a few revolutions, cycle the ingnition,(key back to on, then
start), it fires instantly. I do not even know where to start looking for
this problem. Any thoughts will help, thanks. -Jay
I had this problem on my Isuzu Rodeo and after several times to the dealer
they finaly found out that it needed new fuel injectors which solved the
problem.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 15:10:38 EST
From: Toyotanut Subject: Headers
To: toy4x4@tlca.org
Well guys im about to buy a set of headers for my 90 pickup 22re. Only I
dont know wich to buy. How much of a diffrence is there between tri-y and
4into1. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks ahead of time for the
help.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 14:18:14 -0500
From: Charles Brooks Subject: K&N Air Filters
To: toy4x4@tlca.org
A long time back we had a discussion on the merits and
drawbacks of the K&N's. Is the person who did the oil
analysis after using one still on the List? I tried finding
the thread in the back issues but didn't have any luck.
What I'm looking for is the particulars on the oil analysis.
As I recall there was a great deal more contaminants in the
oil. I believe the analysis was done on fleet vehicles that
had documented regular maintenance. Can anyone help?
Does anyone even remember this??? :)
Charles Brooks
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 17:35:30 -0000
From: runars@isbank.is
Subject: Lockers on Ice, experience
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Talking about lockers...
Finally I've been able to try my (new) truck on Icy roads. It has a
Detroit or something of that kind in the front axle, and I was very
curius to find out how it would act on Ice.
Firstly driving 2WD with the hubs locked has only a very slight effect
on the steering, but hardly noticanble. (My truck however has a
hydraulic ram instead of the damper so its steering is very powerful).
Driving in 4Hi. I always expected huge amount of understeer, but non
came. The steering got firmer. Doing sharp corners, is no problem.
THE SURPRICE was when trying to drive straight....! It is almost
impossible.... Everytime I step on the gas or let go off it, the truck
jumps in either direction. I blame it on the freeplay in the locker.
Under most road condictions, it seem that only one tire is getting
torque, or at least gets the torque a fraction of a turn earlier,
causing big shock into the steering. And since I'm driving straight
both wheels are turning at the same speed and it can take the other tire
forever to get its torque deliverd.
The 12" wide rims don't make life easier here....
No, no driveshaft is broken, since this shock is not in one direction
only.
No, a steering damper would not improve things, as the steering ram
works as well as few dampers to damp things (I got 38" tires and have
never felt any road bumps up into the steering, Yes I've driven on bumpy
roads)
I probably got a Detroit, but I've never heard it operate.... So maby
it is some other "unlocker" (like somebody calls the detroit kind of
lockers..)
Runar.> -----Original Message-----> From: Eric Johnson [SMTP:ej@blarg.net]> Sent: Thursday, January 22, 1998 7:10 AM> To: Toy4x4@tlca.org> Subject: Diffs are in!>> I finally got both my diffs in! Wow, that front third member is a bear> to> install. The rear takes 20 minutesl the front takes hours.>> I went from 4.30 to 4.88 gears and from open diffs to Truetracs front> and> rear.>> Hopefully, I'll get a chance to test this weekend, I'll let you all> know> how they perform off-road. On road, with front hubs unlocked, its> virtually> invisible; maybe a TINY bit of understeer in tight corners. With hubs> locked, I get a little bit of a pull...>> -->> - ej@blarg.net>> ------------------------------
Date: Fri, 23 Jan 98 11:46:45 -0600
From: hosse@okway.okstate.edu
Subject: low fuel light
To: I have a 1996 Toyota Tacoma 4x4 LX model. Does anybody know if this
model comes with a low fuel light?

Thanks
William Eubank
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 05:31:57 -1000 (HST)
From: Eric Johnson Subject: Milage
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
On Fri, 23 Jan 1998 pelland@ix.netcom.com wrote:> I have a 94 pick up with a 22re engine, the gears have been changed to> 4.88's. If I change from Running 31x10.5 all terrains to 33x9.5 Mud terrains> will my gas milage increase?>> The tires will match the gearing.> Asuming the weight of the two tires is about equal (+2" height,-1" width).> The circumference of the tire will be greater, so it seems like I should> travel further per revolution.>> Therefore greater MPG???
Hard to say. Probably not. Even though you go further per revolution, it
takes more torque to turn that revolution, which takes more gas - whether
you burn more or less gas per mile remains to be seen. Notice how all the
econo-boxes have tiny little tires, and they are built for mileage...
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 09:53:44 -0800
From: Chris Geiger Subject: Milage
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Your MPG will go down with the larger tires. No body ever gets better
milage with larger tires.
Chris Geiger 93 4Runner http://geiger.mcl.ucsb.edu/offroad.html
Eric Johnson wrote:> On Fri, 23 Jan 1998 pelland@ix.netcom.com wrote:>>> I have a 94 pick up with a 22re engine, the gears have been changed> to>> 4.88's. If I change from Running 31x10.5 all terrains to 33x9.5 Mud> terrains>> will my gas milage increase?>>>> The tires will match the gearing.>> Asuming the weight of the two tires is about equal (+2" height,-1"> width).>> The circumference of the tire will be greater, so it seems like I> should>> travel further per revolution.>>>> Therefore greater MPG???>> Hard to say. Probably not. Even though you go further per revolution,> it> takes more torque to turn that revolution, which takes more gas -> whether> you burn more or less gas per mile remains to be seen. Notice how all> the> econo-boxes have tiny little tires, and they are built for mileage...
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 13:27:57 -0700 (PDT)
From: Ken Emanuel Subject: Milage
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org> Your MPG will go down with the larger tires. No body ever gets better> milage with larger tires.> My gas mileage increased about 1 mpg in town and 4 mpg on the
highway after I went from the 225/75R15s to 31x10.5s.
I check my mileage everytime I fill up. I attribute this to
the fact that the stock gearing is too low at fast highway
speeds, and the larger tires dropped my RPMs to the torque
peak (2800 RPMs) at 75MPH (where I usually drive.)
I now get 20 MPG city and 25-26 highway, and I'm a led foot!
Ken Emanuel
'87 Xtra Cab SR5
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 12:04:10 EST
From: DRM033 Subject: Mud Kings vs. BFG MTs
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
In a message dated 98-01-23 00:15:08 EST, you write:> Now, finally, I get to the point. How do Mud Kings compare to BFG MTs> when comparing, noise, tread wear, traction on slick rock, and> durability on the trail (I've punctured the sides walls of 2 BFG ATs in> the last 2 years)?
Save your money and get the Kings. They are great off road and they are not
real loud. On road they have pretty good manners. It does make me sick how
they have jumperd in price though. I paid $85 each for 31's mounted &
balanced 3 years ago. I could have gotten 35's for like $115. Sickening.
- ---------------------------------------------------------------------
David Moore DRM033@aol.com
90 Toyota Truck - 4" ProComp, 33" Swampers,
4.88's, rear ARB, TJM bumper & Ramsey #8000
TLCA #5662
Traxx In Motion 4 Wheel Drive Club
- ---------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 23 Jan 98 13:24:00 -0500
From: Rosenberger Bud Subject: Mud Kings vs. BFG MTs
To: "mail@UUCP {Toy4x4@tlca.org}" The only caution that I have is that the Mud Kings wore out almost twice
as fast as the Mud Terrains on my friends 3/4 ton truck. He does eat
tires up in 20-25k miles usually but the mud Terrains lasted 37k. On our
lighter trucks this may not matter. In another year I can tell you how
his Swampers are wearing by comparison. His biggest complaint about the
BFG Muds were that they weren't loud enough! The swampers fixed that.
Most tire manufacturers have an "off" or "no name" brand that is almost
the same as thier top of the line tires but is made of less expensive
materials. This usually means faster wear.
In a way, I wish my All terrains would wear faster so I can buy MT's or
Swampers!
Bud R> Now, finally, I get to the point. How do Mud Kings compare to BFG MTs> when comparing, noise, tread wear, traction on slick rock, and> durability on the trail (I've punctured the sides walls of 2 BFG ATs
in> the last 2 years)?
Save your money and get the Kings. They are great off road and they are
not
real loud. On road they have pretty good manners. It does make me sick
how
they have jumperd in price though. I paid $85 each for 31's mounted &
balanced 3 years ago. I could have gotten 35's for like $115.
Sickening.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 09:11:51 -0800
From: "Roger Brown P.E." Subject: My P.O.S Truck...
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Jason wrote:> Got in the truck, driving up the road, noticed the heater wasnt> getting warm as> quick as usual, actually, not warm at all. Played with the controls,> no good.> Let it ride along, no fan blowing, turned fan back on, blew a little> warm air> [not much], then cold again. Then temp needle started creeping toward> red.> Never left middle of gauge before. Got to school [not quite in red> yet], popped> hood, radiator hot. Not thermostat then, correct? Water pump then?> Would> explain how when not blowing fan on heater, allowed heat to transfer> enough to> get it warm, then when turned fan on it cooled it quick to where no> more hot> air blew.
My 85 22RE did that on the first trip in it to the snow. It turned out to be
low coolant. I noticed a gurgling noise coming from the heater coils. Of
course, the next question is why is the coolant low. In my case, it was a
cracked cylinder head.
- --
Roger Brown, P.E. mailto:rogerb@sgi.com
+1.650.933.1898 (vmail) +1.650.932.1898 (fax)
http://reality.sgi.com/rogerb/
Check out the SGI EuroDev Forum: http://www-devprg.sgi.de/Forum98/
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 23 Jan 98 08:31:32 -0800
From: jcalvert@specialized.com (John Calvert (Customer Service))
Subject: PRESS RELEASE:
To: <100734.552@compuserve.com>, ,
FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE
TO: MANKIND
FROM: THE TREES
StoP tHE LogGINg oR wE WiLl coNtInUE To KILl oNe CeleBrITY EacH WeEK.
TheRe ARe nO SkIinG "aCciDenTS".
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 11:03:27 -0600
From: "Michael Rowe" Subject: Prices
To: I was just quoted $69 for a Walker Dynomax muffler to go on a V6 4Runner.
Plus $39 for a tail pipe. This seems pretty steep compared to the prices
listed in the Exhaust archive. Is this too much or is it about right.
Michael Rowe
http://www.southpadre.com/offroad.htm
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 11:33:21 -0500
From: Ed.Wong@astramerck.com
Subject: Reply about 86 oil pan leak from owner
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org, TNTLGCA@aol.com
I agree with Brandon - if its the oil pan leaking - drop the
pan.
Luckily, the Yota gasget is "silicone" sqeeze from a tube type.
While my previous posts said you cant remove the pan
without dropping the IFS axle - that was for REMOVAL.
In that case I need to take out the thrust bearings
from the engine.
In your case - a hour or two is all you need to do it -
take out all the bolts, pull the pan down about 2 inches
(it will hang up on the oil pump pickup, but thats OK).
*be careful* not to drop any old gasket material into the pan
and then clean the lip of the pan and block with something
(I used carb cleaner on a rag). Add the goop to the pan and
place it back in.
EWong
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 09:41:48 -0800
From: "Roger Brown P.E." Subject: Steven's Creek Toyota
To: toy4x4@tlca.org
Scott ranted:>> ...
THE SERVICE DEPARTMENT IS A JOKE! I do not recommend you EVER bring
your car there....EVER!! The problem is mainly with the Service
Writters. They are a bunch of spineless liars who will say anything
that comes to them...whether its true or not doesn't matter.
...
< Subject: T100 radio and speaker removal
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
I tried to send this to Mike privatly but the address in his header didn't
work. So Mike, if you see this please include your address in the footer.
Thanks!>Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 09:34:15 -0500>From: zeus!mike@uunet.uu.net (Mike McLaughlin)>Subject: radio and speaker removal>To: Toy4x4@tlca.org>I have a 97 T100 xtra-cab. I'm going to replace the radio and>all 4 speakers. If anyone has done this, I'd appreciate a few>pointers on what I have to dismantle to get at the radio and the>speakers. Even if you did it on a Tacoma, I'd like to know any>of any shortcuts or pitfalls.
I did the radio on my 96 (T100 X-Cab). Took all of 5 minutes... but I was
installing a used Celica stereo. Just pop off the black frame/trim and
you'll see all the screws. The door panels just pop off too. I did this
once while I was driving 8-) just to have a look. The rear looks like a
bit
more work since the whole rear area is one piece of plastic.
I am interested in replacing the speakers too, but haven't gotten around to
figuring out what I want yet. I believe the fronts are 5.25" and the rears
are 5.0". Polk makes a 5.0"... but I guess they are otherwise hard to
come by. What are your plans? Stock sizes or are you going to modify the
truck? I wish there was more discussion on T100's on the list.
Let me know how it goes...
James E. Triplett
jetriple@crnotes.cca.rockwell.com
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 11:37:13 -0500
From: Ed.Wong@astramerck.com
Subject: Tacoma Rear Bumper
To: mbar21@yahoo.com, toy4x4@tlca.org>>> Hello, I was wondering if anyone knows of a cheap place to buy a
replacement rear bumper for a '97 Tacoma 4x4.
<< -----Original Message-----> From: Craig Blanchette [SMTP:blanchet@cnx.net]> Sent: Friday, January 23, 1998 9:10 AM> To: Toy4x4@tlca.org> Subject: Re: vented disk swap: better stops?>>> I would like to know what one does when they are already in four low> first,> going down a very steep hill. Engine rpm starts to climb, pretty soon> it> starts to redline. And you still have 90% of the hill to go down on. I> guess> that I will have to use my brakes. Different terrains require> different> methods of driving. Not all situations can be a simple answer of> "downshift"> And I know that I wasn't the only toyota that has to do this around> our> area. At least half have the same problem.>> -----Original Message-----> From: DAVE SCHOENBERG > To: Toy4x4@tlca.org > Date: Thursday, January 22, 1998 6:26 PM> Subject: Re: vented disk swap: better stops?>>>>Old (still living and retired) truck-driver rule #1: If your gears> won't>>hold you back, SLOW DOWN and pick a lower gear that will.>>>>Signed (who else),>>>>Dave Schoenberg, Arvada, Colorado-----Who else gives advice like> this???>>'81 Toy/'86 EFI engine/5-spd/xfer--an' I did it all myself, with NO>>Liquid Nails!!>>Brakes and heater both work exceedingly well, thank you.>>Thank You for subscribing to "Dave's Automotively Mechanical Humor> Line".>>DaveS8@Juno.com>>>>On Thu, 22 Jan 1998 14:14:20 -0800 "Craig Blanchette"> >>writes:>>>Using the gears is not always an option. Around my home town, we> have>>great offroad areas, all hills and mountains. On most of the trips I> have>>taken, flat ground can be rare. The Toyotas almost all over heated> their>>brakes due to the 4 cyl not being able to hold back the truck due to> the>>steep slopes.>>>Using the gears AND killing the brakes was the only answer.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 11:47:27 -8 GMT
From: "Leo G. Divinagracia III" Subject: vented disk swap: better stops?
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
From: DRM033 > The real culprit is as Runar mentioned. At higher temps the> surface of the pads/shoes ablates. This causes a hot gas layer in> between the disk and friction material. I also believe the> coefficient of friction is lower at higher temps, gas layer> aside.
Is this a something drilled rotors help solve? Sounds good to me...
you could also, let off on the brakes, let them 'breathe' for a few seconds,
then jump back on them again...
From: "Craig Blanchette" I would like to know what one does when they are already in four
low first, going down a very steep hill. Engine rpm starts to
climb, pretty soon it starts to redline. And you still have 90% of
the hill to go down on. I guess that I will have to use my brakes.
Different terrains require different methods of driving. Not all
situations can be a simple answer of "downshift" And I know that I
wasn't the only toyota that has to do this around our area. At
least half have the same problem.
maybe riding the brakes immediately to maintain a crawl. after all, as the
RPM climbs, you start gaining speed. so get on the brakes to slow down, this
drops the RPMs, get off the brakes, let them cool, RPM climbs, then get on
the brakes again. repeat until you get to the bottom...
btw, i guess there's no other route other than going this very steep hill,
right?
- -----------------------
Leo G. Divinagracia III
ldivinag@csuhayward.edu
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 23 Jan 98 15:35:18 -0600
From: bwiencek@kcnet.com
Subject: Web Page has moved
To: toy4x4@tlca.org
All,
My web page for my Truck (v-8 conversion) & 4 Runner has moved on the
ORC server - it's new URL is http://www.off-road.com/~bwiencek (used to be
/~toyota) Take a look around, and if you previously had links to the page,
please update them. If you didn't have a link, then you should have one!
- - Brian
------------------------------
The views expressed in Toy4x4 are those of the individual authors only.
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