Toy4x4 Digest          Thu, 22 Jan 98 12:30:02 (HST)  Volume 1 : Issue 671
 Today's Topics:
 86 4RUNNER oil pan gasket question???please help !! (3 msgs)
 AC comp. cycling
 Belt tension
 Bio
 Diffs are in! (5 msgs)
 Digest
 Downey rear coils
 engine conversion
 Ford shock mounts and longer shackles
 Fried morning (2 msgs)
 Lifting 85 4Runner
 Moscow mt. (air comp)
 My P.O.S Truck... (3 msgs)
 My trucks future
 Need advice on lifting '85 4Runner to clear 35" BFGs (5 msgs)
 Power steering swap
 SNOW WHEELING fri-sat?
 Subject: fuel empty light (2 msgs)
 tach adj
 tires (2 msgs)
 unsubscribe
 vented disk swap: better stops? (8 msgs)
 Weedeater motor/12 V source
 West Coast Off-Road (2 msgs)
 What engine is in an 80 SR5
 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
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 ----------------------------------------------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 11:49:25 EST
 From: TNTLGCA  Subject: 86 4RUNNER oil pan gasket question???please help !!
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 I just got my truck back from a long road trip and when I noticed my oil pan
 was leaking oil from the around the front half of the motor.
 Its a 22re SR5
 My question is do I have to do all the crap the chitlins manuel says...I.E.
 undo the tie rods and loosen the motor mounts to replace the gasket??????
 I Have a 2 inch body lift and a 4 inch suspension on the the front end "IFS".
 I just spoke to my local parts store that said it is possible to lower the pan
 and clean the old off and out of the pan and CUT the new gasket and put around
 and seal and then put back on without taking any  other part off...
 I would like to do the repair myself this friday 1-23-98 so If anyone out
 there in toyota land could help me out with thier experineces with replacing
 the oil pan gasket on a 22re the easyiest way.
 Thanks in advanced
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 12:00:08 -0500
 From: Karl Bellve  Subject: 86 4RUNNER oil pan gasket question???please help !!
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 At 11:49 AM 1/22/98 EST, you wrote:>I just got my truck back from a long road trip and when I noticed my oil pan>was leaking oil from the around the front half of the motor.>Its a 22re SR5>My question is do I have to do all the crap the chitlins manuel says...I.E.>undo the tie rods and loosen the motor mounts to replace the gasket??????
 stuff cliped.>I would like to do the repair myself this friday 1-23-98 so If anyone out>there in toyota land could help me out with thier experineces with replacing>the oil pan gasket on a 22re the easyiest way.
 How do you know it is the oil pan gasket? It could be your oil pump seal by
 the crank. This is a well known area for failure and it will leave the front
 half of your engine covered in oil. It is also a $20 (parts) fix that is
 simple to do.
 Karl Bellve, Ph.D.
 Biomedical Imaging Group
 University of Massachusetts
 email: kdb@molmed.ummed.edu
 www  : http://molmed.ummed.edu/~kdb/
 phone: 508-856-3785
 fax  : 508-856-1840
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 07:25:31 -1000 (HST)
 From: Eric Johnson  Subject: 86 4RUNNER oil pan gasket question???please help !!
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 On Thu, 22 Jan 1998, TNTLGCA wrote:> I just got my truck back from a long road trip and when I noticed my oil pan> was leaking oil from the around the front half of the motor.> Its a 22re SR5> My question is do I have to do all the crap the chitlins manuel says...I.E.> undo the tie rods and loosen the motor mounts to replace the gasket??????
 Are you sure its the oil pan and not the front main seal or oil pump
 o-ring dripping onto the oil pan? I just had that happen and fixed it last
 weekend.
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 14:16:58 -0800
 From: "Jay Biery"  Subject: AC comp. cycling
 To:  AC compressors will cycle when they are low on refrigerant.  Thats the
 first thing I would check.
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 14:02:44 -1233
 From: s0baker@usuhsb.usuhs.mil
 Subject: Belt tension
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org
 Along with the recent belt tension thread.  There is supposed to be a certain
 tension that the beltgs are set at.  Any ideas on where to get a belt tension
 meter?  Or do y'all just crank it down until it feels good and tight.  That's
 what I ended up doing.  Of course I always keep a couple of spares in the
 truck just in case.  H
 Thanks
 Bakes
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 08:45:33 -0800 (PST)
 From: Brian Crain  Subject: Bio
 To: Toy4x4  On Wed, 21 Jan 1998, Toy4x4-Request wrote:> Personal Bio Info>> POST TO THE LIST ONLY>> toy4x4@tlca.org> +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++>> Name:Brian Crain>> City & State:Eureka California>> Country:US>> E-mail address:bpc3@axe.humboldt.edu>> Toyota (s) year & model:87 PU standard cab/shortbed>> Are you a TLCA Member (Y/N/Number?):no>> Age:23>> Occupation:Graduate Student>> Marital Status:Engaged>> Hobbies:Fishing, Surfing, Rock climbing, Racketball, Mushrooms(Edible
 ones not Psychadelic) and plants>> How did you find out about the Toyota 4x4 Mailing List:Internet>> General info about your vehicle, self, etc.:The vehicle was recently
 purchased from the original owner with about 150,000 miles on it. Within
 the last year the owner replaced the clutch, radiator, thermostat, had a
 valve job, resurfaced the head and had the whole truck lubed. Oh, and
 sparkplugs, wires, cap and rotor. Today all of the box fluids will be
 changed and a new oil,air and fuel filter will be put on. It needs shocks
 and i want a winch.>> ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 10:34:58 -0500
 From: Ed.Wong@astramerck.com
 Subject: Diffs are in!
 To: ej@blarg.net, toy4x4@tlca.org>> On road, with front hubs unlocked, its virtually
 invisible; maybe a TINY bit of understeer in tight corners.
< Subject: Diffs are in!
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Ed.Wong@astramerck.com wrote:> are disconnected (I assume manual hubs - if you have the> ADD - you HAVE to go to manual hubs or you'll wreck> the trutrac!)
 Why would that wreck the tru-trac? The only thing it would
 do would be to cause it to wear at the same rate as the one
 in the rear diff.
 Charles Brooks
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 09:59:33 -0800
 From: Chris Geiger  Subject: Diffs are in!
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Because the ADD system only disconnects the driver side axle shaft
 leaving the passenger side wheel connected to the diff. The True Trac
 will then fight to keep the driver side shaft turning as well. This will
 also cause the front drive shaft to spin, where as without the True Trac
 in front the front drive shaft will not spin in 2WD. If you don't have
 ADD and both hubs are locked than the load on the True Trac unit is low
 because both tires are spinning and the unit does not fight to keep one
 of them going.
 Don't ever use a limited slip unit in front on a truck that has ADD
 unless you install manual hubs!
 I am working with Jim Brink to develop an ADD info web page for
 off-road.com, we will have lots of info there, how the ADD works, how to
 troubleshoot it, how to disconnect it, ect.
 Chris Geiger 93 4Runner http://geiger.mcl.ucsb.edu/offroad.html (with
 ADD disconnected)
 Charles Brooks wrote:> Ed.Wong@astramerck.com wrote:>> are disconnected (I assume manual hubs - if you have the>> ADD - you HAVE to go to manual hubs or you'll wreck>> the trutrac!)>> Why would that wreck the tru-trac? The only thing it would> do would be to cause it to wear at the same rate as the one> in the rear diff.>> Charles Brooks
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 13:45:30 -0500
 From: Charles Brooks  Subject: Diffs are in!
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Chris Geiger wrote:>> Because the ADD system only disconnects the driver side axle shaft> leaving the passenger side wheel connected to the diff. The True Trac> will then fight to keep the driver side shaft turning as well. This will> also cause the front drive shaft to spin,
 Doesn't the drivers side shaft spins freely after its disconnected? If
 it
 does there will be little resistance for the tru-trac to overcome. And
 the front driveshaft spinning doesn't cause any damage it just reduces
 gas mileage.
 Maybe I'm missing something, I'll check my good Ole' Chiltons manual.
 before I put my foot in my mouth.  :)
 Charles Brooks
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 11:32:41 -0800
 From: Chris Geiger  Subject: Diffs are in!
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 There are 2 parts to the driver side half shaft, the wheel side that
 turns when the wheel turns and the diff side that does not spin in 2WD.
 If you put a True Trac unit in then this shaft and the drive shaft going
 from the transfer case to the front diff will spin unless you unlock the
 passenger side with a manual hub. Dragging the drive shaft and ring &
 pinion is what will dammage a limited slip after extended use. Without
 the True Trac installed the front drive shaft and ring & pinion gears
 don't turn, only the spider gears turn
 Chris Geiger 93 4Runner http://geiger.mcl.ucsb.edu/offroad.html
 Charles Brooks wrote:> Chris Geiger wrote:>>>> Because the ADD system only disconnects the driver side axle shaft>> leaving the passenger side wheel connected to the diff. The True> Trac>> will then fight to keep the driver side shaft turning as well. This> will>> also cause the front drive shaft to spin,>> Doesn't the drivers side shaft spins freely after its disconnected? If>> it> does there will be little resistance for the tru-trac to overcome. And>> the front driveshaft spinning doesn't cause any damage it just reduces>> gas mileage.
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 14:48:32 -0700
 From: "Jay Kopycinski"  Subject: Digest
 To: Toyota 4x4 List  Jack,
 What are there....about 600 people on the digest?
 Jay
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 02:22:57 -0800
 From: Kenneth Fong  Subject: Downey rear coils
 To: Toyota 4x4 List  This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
 - --------------F256DFE877C0B3442D0AD9B5
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
 Just received a new set of Downey rear coils for
 my 4-Runner.
 I haven't had a chance to put them in just yet.
 Probably in a few days.
 They are gray and not gold like I've seen and read
 about.
 Just thought it was unusual.
 Is that how they come now?
 Thanks
 - --------------F256DFE877C0B3442D0AD9B5
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 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
 Content-Description: Card for Kenneth Fong
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 n:              Fong;Kenneth
 org:            San Francisco State University
 email;internet: stealth@sfsu.edu
 tel;work:       415-605-7276
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 - --------------F256DFE877C0B3442D0AD9B5--
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 13:44:59 -0500
 From: "Wilbur M. Yegge"  Subject: engine conversion
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Well seeing as i cant write HTML, and i want to share with everybody
 how my 4.3 swap is going...if nobody minds i'll just post everything i do
 on the list.
 Recieved the th350 adapter from sheldon...so when my Dad's vacation is done
 he'll bring it up to me(nice time of year to get out of maine..lucky SOB),
 and my moter was delivered to my house last night. It came out of a friends
 monte carlo and in its day it was a tire burner from hell. I dunno if im
 just gonna clean it up and change the valve seals (it smoked), or use it as
 a core and get another one from a napa engine rebuilding place about an
 hour from my house. Most people ive talked to says they'll set me up with a
 well executed rebuilt engine for around 500$. so i dunno. This weekend im
 headin over to get rapid refund income tax return so next week im gonna
 have about 1200 to play with. THAT MEANS ONE HELL OF A TRIP TO THE LOCAL
 OFF-ROAD STORE!!! engine mounts, and a radiator...nice fresh
 tranny..adapter headers...YEE HAWWW!!!...ok i am stumped on a few things
 though..like what should i do about my alternator??..buy a braket and use
 the stock Toy model?..or splice into my electrical system and use the gm
 model(I know theres gonna be plenty of wiring to be done).I dont have power
 steering so i dont hafta worry about that(it sucked with the 36.5 X 14.00).
 Another thing i want NO part of is fuel infestation...this motor has a
 dirty lookin tbi setup...thats gotta go...anybody know who makes an intake
 and carb for a 4.3? im lookin at usin a 390 2bbl. Any thoughts on those
 aftermarket radiators with the built in tranny coolers?..thats the one im
 leanin towards with a small in-line secondary cooler
 just to be safe......theres gonna be alot more to come so I'll stop wastin
 bandwith...oh ya..anybody ever pick up a 4.3?...those things..and i swear
 its true...are on helluva lot lighter that a 22R.....thanks..Trev..
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 11:00:21 -0800
 From: "wg"  Subject: Ford shock mounts and longer shackles
 To:  Darren Floen wrote> Hey everyone,I need some longer front shackles for my 85 Toy.I am> wondering who sells a complete kit with bolts and bushings.I'm looking> for 2" longer reinforced shackles.Who's got the best price?If the price> is right i may buy them instead of fabbing them.
 If your looking for 2" longer front shackles I don't think they exist
 commercially? What I did was just take the Confer front shackles
 and cut the center out of them and drilled the springeye mounting hole
 1" higher (confers are 3" longer than stock). It works great this way
 and gave me an extra inch of lift..instead of 2"
 They come with the bolts but not the bushings. Just get some
 of the black Energy Suspension bushings..they are quite soft.
 Also I'm from Canada too and the best price I could find for the
 Confer shackles was between $75-80!> Also,i want to extend my front shock mounts,and i may fab my own but i> was thinking about the ford shock mount swap.What is the exact model> that i need(F250-F350,2wd or 4wd)?
 On my truck I fabricated the extended front shock mounts.
 What a huge waste of time and effort!!!!!!!!
 Just get the Ford mounts from a wrecker.
 Ford f-250 and 350 front upper shock mounts are bolt on.
 If you look in the wheel well of a ford 4x4 you will see how long
 they are and perfect for 9012's!
 Wil
 81Toy
 http://www.off-road.com/~irc/
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 10:31:40 -0700
 From: Rob Boyle  Subject: Fried morning
 To: toy4x4@off-road.com
 Man what a morning its been, I'm sitting here next to my aquarium full
 of dead fish, my 2 year old found the heater and turned it up to 98
 degrees. My wife was so nice as to start my truck for me while she was
 outside. well it was 20 below again, and the ignition switch stayed in
 the start position as she walked away from the started truck. 10 minutes
 later I go out to find the truck stalled, stinking of electrical smoke,
 and the key still in the start position. needless to say the starter is
 fried. I'm wondering if the flywheel is toast too. any guesses what else
 has been destroyed? I'll be inside till it warms up to 10 degrees.
 burned out from the cold
 Rob Boyle
 85 4runner
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 22 Jan 98 12:08:39 -0600
 From: bwiencek@kcnet.com
 Subject: Fried morning
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 On Thu, 22 Jan 1998, Rob Boyle  wrote:>the start position as she walked away from the started truck. 10 minutes>later I go out to find the truck stalled, stinking of electrical smoke,>and the key still in the start position. needless to say the starter is>fried. I'm wondering if the flywheel is toast too. any guesses what else>has been destroyed? I'll be inside till it warms up to 10 degrees.
 Sounds like a real bad morning - check the battery cables between the battery
 & starter and battery & frame.  The flywheel shouldn't be shot, but you can
 do a visual once the starter is out.  The starter probably is toast - just
 get a rebuilt - it's cheaper than replacing  the windings (if that's what
 burned up) and the nose gear.  Shouldn't be too bad except for the cold...
 Check the wiring from the key to the starter (if it's not bad by the starter
 it's probably not bad inside... If it's bad, then check all the wiring to the
 steering column.  Try cleaning out your ignition switch, then lubing with
 some light oil (like 3-in-1 or similar)  that should keep it from sticking in
 the on position in the future.
 Good luck with the repairs.
 - - Brian
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 14:04:40 -0500
 From: "Eli Madden"  Subject: Lifting 85 4Runner
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org
 Jerald Josephs wrote -
 ********************
 I think I have finally settled on the rubber and now I just need to
 get the clearance.  I checked 4WPW's catalog and it appears that the
 only set of leaf springs that are going to go above 4" are the
 SuperLifts.
 I would like to avoid the use of a body lift and I definitely do not
 want to cut any sheet metal.  The truck has some (Bushwacker?)
 fender flares.
 Is this going to be possible, or am I dreaming?
 *********************
 Skyjacker makes Softride springs for 79-85 Toys in 3, 5, and 7 inch lifts. I got a 3" kit and have been very happy with the ride and handling on my '83 shortbed pickup. I got 4 Softride Hydro shocks at the same time and I like them very well also. I highly suggest getting a SYSTEM instead of a KIT, because the system not only come with new rear springs, but all the U-bolts and misc. hardware that the kit does not come with. It's not worth the hassle to reuse the hardware, and it's a good idea to replace it
 anyways.
 With the 5" or 7" lift you will need a dropped pitman arm as well as extended brake lines. I havn't put extended brake lines on yet with the 3" lift, but I should. I would need them if I disconnected the front swaybar.
 Skyjacker's springs are very good quality, with teflon shims between the leaves and all the heat treating, shotpeening, tapering, pre-setting, etc etc. Even still, a 5" or 7" lift is going to have a lot of arch and be pretty stiff.
 How about a 3" suspension lift and 2" body lift? You probably won't have to cut metal and you'll still have a nice ride with good travel.
 Downey also makes some cut-out fender flares for 84-89 Toys that look like they increase clearance quite a bit.
 I'm planning on cutting my fenders as much as it takes to fit 36"  on my '83. The '79-'83s have the largest fender openings so I have a head start.......
 Good luck!
 Eli
 emadden@inacom-vt.com
 '83 SR5 Shortbed 4x4 Pickup
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 11:02:52 -8 GMT
 From: "Leo G. Divinagracia III"  Subject: Moscow mt. (air comp)
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org> From: DRM033 >>                                                                      If you> built a silencing chamber attached to the exhaust pipe, the engine would not> even be that loud.> Any ideas on this?> yes, it's called an active muffler.  essentially, you stick a microphone to
 the thing making a noise.  then place a speaker next to it.  a computer reads
 the frequency of the noise, creates a negative or inverse noise and plays it
 through the speaker.  therefore cancelling out the noise.
 bose sells a $200 headphone based on this theory.  and i have tried them on
 and they do what they claim.  great for small plane pilots...
 - -----------------------
 Leo G. Divinagracia III
 ldivinag@csuhayward.edu
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 10:19:26 -0500
 From: Duane D Miller  Subject: My P.O.S Truck...
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Jason Matthews asked me to send this to the list for opinions, advice, etc....
 93 V6,P/U Ext Cab, 88K miles...
 Got in the truck, driving up the road, noticed the heater wasnt getting warm as
 quick as usual, actually, not warm at all. Played with the controls, no good.
 Let it ride along, no fan blowing, turned fan back on, blew a little warm air
 [not much], then cold again. Then temp needle started creeping toward red.
 Never left middle of gauge before. Got to school [not quite in red yet], popped
 hood, radiator hot. Not thermostat then, correct? Water pump then? Would
 explain how when not blowing fan on heater, allowed heat to transfer enough to
 get it warm, then when turned fan on it cooled it quick to where no more hot
 air blew.
 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
 /\   MITSUBISHI SEMICONDUCTOR AMERICA, INC.   /\
 _\/_            Three Diamond Lane            _\/_
 /_/\_\           Durham, NC  27704            /_/\_\
 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
 Duane D. Miller
 Purchasing Department
 E-Mail:dmiller@msai.mea.com
 Direct Phone: (919)479-3796
 Fax: (919)479-3328
 Pager/Voice Mail: (800)374-4434
 PIN # 40161
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 15:27:29 -0000
 From: runars@isbank.is
 Subject: My P.O.S Truck...
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 To little coolant.
 coolant level to low.....
 Runar.> -----Original Message-----> From:	Duane D Miller [SMTP:dmiller@msai.mea.com]> Sent:	Thursday, January 22, 1998 3:19 PM> To:	Toy4x4@tlca.org> Subject:	(Fwd) My P.O.S Truck...>>>> Jason Matthews asked me to send this to the list for opinions, advice,> etc....>> 93 V6,P/U Ext Cab, 88K miles...>> Got in the truck, driving up the road, noticed the heater wasnt> getting warm as> quick as usual, actually, not warm at all. Played with the controls,> no good.> Let it ride along, no fan blowing, turned fan back on, blew a little> warm air> [not much], then cold again. Then temp needle started creeping toward> red.> Never left middle of gauge before. Got to school [not quite in red> yet], popped> hood, radiator hot. Not thermostat then, correct? Water pump then?> Would> explain how when not blowing fan on heater, allowed heat to transfer> enough to> get it warm, then when turned fan on it cooled it quick to where no> more hot> air blew.>>>> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~>    /\   MITSUBISHI SEMICONDUCTOR AMERICA, INC.   /\>   _\/_            Three Diamond Lane            _\/_>  /_/\_\           Durham, NC  27704            /_/\_\> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~>>                    Duane D. Miller>                 Purchasing Department>              E-Mail:dmiller@msai.mea.com>              Direct Phone: (919)479-3796>                   Fax: (919)479-3328>             Pager/Voice Mail: (800)374-4434> 		      PIN # 40161> ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 11:52:33 -0500 (EST)
 From: Cartman  Subject: My P.O.S Truck...
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org> Got in the truck, driving up the road, noticed the heater wasnt getting warm as> quick as usual, actually, not warm at all. Played with the controls, no good.> Let it ride along, no fan blowing, turned fan back on, blew a little warm air> [not much], then cold again. Then temp needle started creeping toward red.> Never left middle of gauge before. Got to school [not quite in red yet], popped> hood, radiator hot. Not thermostat then, correct? Water pump then? Would> explain how when not blowing fan on heater, allowed heat to transfer enough to> get it warm, then when turned fan on it cooled it quick to where no more hot> air blew.
 Definitely check you coolant level?  Have you had your HG replaced?  How's
 your startup & idle?  Those are the same symptoms I had and my HG was far
 gone... Don't ignore the problem... -
 - --
 Doug Berger
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 12:03:14 -0500
 From: Charles Brooks  Subject: My trucks future
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org
 Well, I just picked up a new (To me) car so now I can
 afford all the down time I need for the truck. As soon
 as I recover from tax, tags, title, and inspection costs
 the truck is going to see some steady modification  :)
 Anctiously awaiting tax return
 Charles Broooooks  ;)
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 12:22:55 -0000
 From: runars@isbank.is
 Subject: Need advice on lifting '85 4Runner to clear 35" BFGs
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Give me one reason why not to cut sheetmetal.
 Runar.> -----Original Message-----> From:	Jerald Josephs [SMTP:jerald.josephs@ipsilon.com]> Sent:	Thursday, January 22, 1998 8:28 AM> To:	Toy4x4@tlca.org> Subject:	Need advice on lifting '85 4Runner to clear 35" BFGs>> I think I have finally settled on the rubber and now I just need to> get the clearance.  I checked 4WPW's catalog and it appears that the> only set of leaf springs that are going to go above 4" are the> SuperLifts.>> I would like to avoid the use of a body lift and I definitely do not> want to cut any sheet metal.  The truck has some (Bushwacker?)> fender flares.>> Is this going to be possible, or am I dreaming?>> --> Jerald E. Josephs                         Nokia IP Routing> Customer Support Engineer                 232 Java Drive, Sunnyvale,> CA> 94089-1318> jerald.josephs@ipsilon.com                (408) 990-2000        fax> (408) 743-5679> phone (408) 990-2175                      http://www.ipsilon.com> ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 09:23:10 -0500
 From: Charles Brooks  Subject: Need advice on lifting '85 4Runner to clear 35" BFGs
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Jerald Josephs wrote:>> I think I have finally settled on the rubber and now I just need to> get the clearance.  I checked 4WPW's catalog and it appears that the> only set of leaf springs that are going to go above 4" are the> SuperLifts.>> I would like to avoid the use of a body lift and I definitely do not> want to cut any sheet metal.  The truck has some (Bushwacker?)> fender flares.
 Skyjacker has 5" springs. you can combine these with a longer shackle
 to get the lift you need.
 Charles Brooks
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 22 Jan 98 10:01:12 -0600
 From: bwiencek@kcnet.com
 Subject: Need advice on lifting '85 4Runner to clear 35" BFGs
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org>only set of leaf springs that are going to go above 4" are the>SuperLifts.>I would like to avoid the use of a body lift and I definitely do not>want to cut any sheet metal.  The truck has some (Bushwacker?)>fender flares.
 Well, the cheapest/easiest way to go is probably 4" lift and cut-out fender
 flares.  The next best is 4" lift + 2" shackles for about the same price.
 Really depends on what you want - If you're not worried about max
 articulation, and want a good street driver and a competent off-roader, then
 these are fine ways to go, but for the articulation you'd probably want to
 devise new rear springs (like the mazda swap, except more arch to gain an
 extra 2") and the fronts will probably have to be custom made.  Are you
 planning to do gears to compensate for the difference?>Is this going to be possible, or am I dreaming?
 It's possible - check out my page at http://www.off-road.com/~toyota  the
 truck has 35's on it.  If you wanted a real easy way, you could simply buy my
 truck (it IS for sale), and drive that - or even swap the parts over to
 yours....
 - - Brian
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 09:15:23 -0800
 From: Brandon Miller  Subject: Need advice on lifting '85 4Runner to clear 35" BFGs
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Body lifts are nice because they give you more room to work, I've got a 2" body
 lift, 4" trailmaster springs, and shackles to clear my 35's.  You could go
 wothout the body lift or the shackles if you don't mind tire rubbage. Oh yeah, I
 did cut sheetmetal and pund in the cab too.
 bwiencek@kcnet.com wrote:>>only set of leaf springs that are going to go above 4" are the>>SuperLifts.>>I would like to avoid the use of a body lift and I definitely do not>>want to cut any sheet metal.  The truck has some (Bushwacker?)>>fender flares.>> Well, the cheapest/easiest way to go is probably 4" lift and cut-out fender> flares.  The next best is 4" lift + 2" shackles for about the same price.> Really depends on what you want - If you're not worried about max> articulation, and want a good street driver and a competent off-roader, then> these are fine ways to go, but for the articulation you'd probably want to> devise new rear springs (like the mazda swap, except more arch to gain an> extra 2") and the fronts will probably have to be custom made.  Are you> planning to do gears to compensate for the difference?>>>Is this going to be possible, or am I dreaming?>> It's possible - check out my page at http://www.off-road.com/~toyota  the> truck has 35's on it.  If you wanted a real easy way, you could simply buy my> truck (it IS for sale), and drive that - or even swap the parts over to> yours....>> - Brian
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 12:24:32 -0500 (EST)
 From: Cartman  Subject: Need advice on lifting '85 4Runner to clear 35" BFGs
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org> Body lifts are nice because they give you more room to work, I've got a 2" body> lift, 4" trailmaster springs, and shackles to clear my 35's.  You could go> wothout the body lift or the shackles if you don't mind tire rubbage. Oh yeah, I> did cut sheetmetal and pund in the cab too.
 I am always leary about body lifts because of the look... I've only seen
 "in person" 3" body lifts.  I've thought about a 1 1/2" --> 2" body
 lift... How does it look?  Do ya need those "lift lip" things?  How does
 it look in the front below the valence?  I remember Chris Geiger saying
 that he modified his custom body lift in the front...
 - --
 Doug
 ~ " What is Mind? no Matter. What is Matter? never Mind." ~
 --Homer J Simpson
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 08:25:18 -0800
 From: Barney McNamara  Subject: Power steering swap
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 A couple people asked about power steering upgrades. Here is a repost of
 a recent message on the subject.>Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 08:22:44 -0800>From: Dan Merrick >Subject: Power steering swap>To: Toy4x4@tlca.org>>I did a power steering swap in my brother's '91 4X4.(4cylinderEFI) It was>pretty easy.>>I purchased a used "kit" from Toyota Truck Recyclers in Rancho Cordova,>California. It was about $300, but this was a few years ago. The kit had a>6 month warranty, not bad for used parts!>>The kit came with everything you need: pump, steering box, fluid reservoir,>fluid cooler, brackets, idler pulley, and the "add on" pulley that bolts to>the crank pulley. They even included a crusty used belt, though I would>replace all the belts when you do the swap. Don't forget that you will need>some vacuum hose, probably about 4 to 5 feet, that runs from the power>steering pump to the EFI intake manifold. This allows the EFI to raise the>idle when you are turning the wheel while idling. Find a similar truck with>power steering to locate exactly where the vacuum lines go. It makes it>much easier.>>The toughest part of the installation is getting the steering input shaft>(from the steering wheel to the steering box)to the proper lenghth. There>are splined ends and u joints with pinch bolts, one near the box and one>under the steering wheel. You may need to loosen the pinch bolts at both>ends and slide the splines out a little to make the shaft the right length.>You may also have to remove the steering wheel and re-center it. Check the>bearing in the idler pulley, and if it is in questionable shape, replace>it. Check all the power steering hoses, as now is the easiest time to>replace them. Don't forget power steering fluid(or ATF)!!>>Well, I am getting out of breath.. I think that was everything. There are a>few Toyota salvage yards in California that I know of, and many of them can>ship you the parts. If you want their phone #'s, email me and I'll track>them down.>>Dan Merrick
 ______________________________________________________________
 Barney McNamara              JENNY - 83 Toyota Short Bed
 ( barney@flowpoint.com )     stock 22R motor ; 3" body lift
 Santa Cruz, Ca.              8" alloy rims; 31" BFG A/Ts
 homepage: http://www.scruz.net/~barneym/barnhome.htm
 ______________________________________________________________
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 09:57:55 +0000
 From: Henry Brimmer  Subject: SNOW WHEELING fri-sat?
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 i know its kinda late, but would anyone be interested in some SNOW
 WHEELING friday and saturday?
 thought of staying at the loon lake challet (where the rubicon trail
 starts) and playing around there... i've got some real nice topo maps
 and have been pointed towards a couple of trails...
 (at loon lake challet you can sleep, cook, make a fire.. very
 inexpensive)
 i think wentworth springs is doable and if so, maybe we could make it
 into the bowl...?
 i've never done off road wheeling in snow -- so i won't be going at it
 alone...
 snow anybody?
 henry brimmer
 tlca 5084
 *i'm also interested in testing my new panoramic camera out there!
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 10:48:34 +1300
 From: Robert Douglas  Subject: Subject: fuel empty light
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 ray or Chris,
 just to confirm, I have an 1988 SR5 -Hilux-will this model have the fuel
 empty light, Ive beeen driving on empty for a few days just to test if the
 light will come on - Kinda Dangerous -can you guys confirm if this is a
 factory spec -
 thanks.
 Rob Douglas, Auckland, New Zealand
 rdouglas@manukau.govt.nz
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 13:28:26 -0800
 From: Chris Geiger  Subject: Subject: fuel empty light
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Take a can of gas with you!
 Chris Geiger 93 4Runner http://geiger.mcl.ucsb.edu/offroad.html
 Robert Douglas wrote:> ray or Chris,> just to confirm, I have an 1988 SR5 -Hilux-will this model have the> fuel> empty light, Ive beeen driving on empty for a few days just to test if> the> light will come on - Kinda Dangerous -can you guys confirm if this is> a> factory spec -> thanks.>> Rob Douglas, Auckland, New Zealand> rdouglas@manukau.govt.nz
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 10:17:23 -0700
 From: "Jay Kopycinski"  Subject: tach adj
 To: Toyota 4x4 List  ishi-tib@juno.com (J Doherty) wrote:>Is there a resistor before the tach if so could I install another one>parallel to it to increase the current at the meter.
 Hmmmm....dunno. I've never really looked at the conversion circuit.
 Jay Kopycinski    '85 Toylet  (ROKTOY)
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 11:55:11 -0000
 From: runars@isbank.is
 Subject: tires
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Just cut till they fit.....
 Runar.> -----Original Message-----> From:	Chris Geiger [SMTP:cgeiger@gte.net]> Sent:	Wednesday, January 21, 1998 11:12 PM> To:	Toy4x4@tlca.org> Subject:	Re: tires>> You did not say what year truck you have, if your planning to put them> on an IFS truck than you will need about 6" of lift, a 4" suspension> and> 2" body lift, or you may be able to open up the fenders and not put> the> body lift on. Have you will also need to change the gears in the diffs> with 33 or 35" tires. Are you building a truck that just has the> off-road look or something that will would work well on the trail? If> trailability is what what you want you should look into getting> Lockers> front and rear. With a 3" body lift you should be able to clear 33"> tires as long as you stick to 8" wheels with 4.5" of backspacing.>> Chris Geiger 93 4Runner http://geiger.mcl.ucsb.edu/offroad.html>>> j. sather wrote:>>> I have just put a 3` lift in my truck and it`s time to retire. I am>> looking>> for sugesions on size . 33x12.50 Or 35xsomething . I think I should> go>> 35`s>> but need to>> know of any more modification to be done to the fenderwells
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 09:27:29 -0800
 From: "Dan Smith"  Subject: tires
 To: "Toy4x4@tlca. org"  You wrote:>Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 14:25:59 -0800>From: "j. sather" >Subject: tires>To: Toy4x4@tlca.org>I have just put a 3` lift in my truck and it`s time to retire.
 Good thing I had someone else do my lift if it's that hard to do! Seriously,
 if you go much over 31" tires you truck becomes a dog with stock gearing.
 32" tires should fit, but from what I have seen of other trucks with 33's
 they would probably rub.
 Dan Smith
 prism@premier1.net
 3" lift, 529 gears, locked front & back, 31" tires (wheels good)
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 15:58:43 EST
 From: Blindsi720  Subject: unsubscribe
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org, toy4x4-dlist@unix.off-road.com
 unsubscribe
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 10:15:23 -0700
 From: "Jay Kopycinski"  Subject: vented disk swap: better stops?
 To: Toyota 4x4 List ,
 breeze@cysource.com (Jeffrey Delzer) wrote:>These days people are quick to blame everything on overeating, but brake>upgrades?? That's stretching things a bit.
 Ok, you're coming down a long, steep hill that requires quite a bit of
 brake to keep the truck speed down. After a while, you find yourself
 pushing harder and harder on the brake pedal to maintain slowing....
 Why is the brake efficiency dropping during this?
 I always believed it was because of the heat rise and fluid expansion
 in the calipers. What do you think it is?
 Jay Kopycinski     '85 Toylet  (ROKTOY)
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 17:31:23 -0000
 From: runars@isbank.is
 Subject: vented disk swap: better stops?
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Hey Jay, You do know you are not suposed to drive like this....  People
 have gotten themselves killed this way.....:-((
 Use the gears, and stay away from the brakes....
 Runar> -----Original Message-----> From:	Jay Kopycinski [SMTP:ryna10@email.sps.mot.com]> Sent:	Thursday, January 22, 1998 5:15 PM> To:	Toy4x4@tlca.org> Subject:	vented disk swap: better stops?>> breeze@cysource.com (Jeffrey Delzer) wrote:>>>These days people are quick to blame everything on overeating, but> brake>>upgrades?? That's stretching things a bit.>> Ok, you're coming down a long, steep hill that requires quite a bit of> brake to keep the truck speed down. After a while, you find yourself> pushing harder and harder on the brake pedal to maintain slowing....>> Why is the brake efficiency dropping during this?>> I always believed it was because of the heat rise and fluid expansion> in the calipers. What do you think it is?>> Jay Kopycinski     '85 Toylet  (ROKTOY)
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 17:55:25 -0000
 From: runars@isbank.is
 Subject: vented disk swap: better stops?
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Yes, the brakes overheat, and gas starts to be created between the pads
 and the disk/drum.  This seriously reduses braking and in the end you
 have no brakes at all. (in the extreme case you can simply melt down the
 brake pads....! This has caused deaths in buses, with drivers that don't
 know how to drive.  This is the reason why modern trucks (in the heavy
 range) use varius types of brakes additions, such as exhaust retraitors,
 electric driveline brakes and such.
 This is never a problem in smaller trucks/cars unless you drive it in a
 very wrong way, in the worst situations.  Donno anything about that
 fluid heating, since the above applies manly to air operated
 brakes.....!
 Runar.> -----Original Message-----> From:	Jay Kopycinski [SMTP:ryna10@email.sps.mot.com]> Sent:	Thursday, January 22, 1998 5:15 PM> To:	Toy4x4@tlca.org> Subject:	vented disk swap: better stops?>> breeze@cysource.com (Jeffrey Delzer) wrote:>>>These days people are quick to blame everything on overeating, but> brake>>upgrades?? That's stretching things a bit.>> Ok, you're coming down a long, steep hill that requires quite a bit of> brake to keep the truck speed down. After a while, you find yourself> pushing harder and harder on the brake pedal to maintain slowing....>> Why is the brake efficiency dropping during this?>> I always believed it was because of the heat rise and fluid expansion> in the calipers. What do you think it is?>> Jay Kopycinski     '85 Toylet  (ROKTOY)
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 10:11:17 -0800
 From: Barney McNamara  Subject: vented disk swap: better stops?
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org>>Barney McNamara wrote:>>>>>> new rotors, and wanted more reliable brakes with less fading due to>>> overeating.>   ^^^^------>>>>These days people are quick to blame everything on overeating, but brake>>upgrades?? That's stretching things a bit.>>Well, given that overeating causes a rise in weight, and we all know the>heavier a vehicle is (with the occupants) the more energy that needs to be>converted to heat during stopping, and thus the higher chance for brake>fade...  It's really not that big of a stretch ;-)  Now if your diet>consisted of liquid nails....>>- - Brian> (couldn't help myself!)
 Yeah, another Freudian slip. I saw that one when I reread my post on the
 digest, I was hoping I'd get by with it, but you people are actually
 reading this stuff, so I got nailed again. I trust my spell-checker to
 keep me out of trouble, but when you spell the wrong word correctly,
 it does not help. I do have recurring problems with overeating, but at
 least my brake overheating problems are gone.
 ______________________________________________________________
 Barney McNamara              JENNY - 83 Toyota Short Bed
 ( barney@flowpoint.com )     stock 22R motor ; 3" body lift
 Santa Cruz, Ca.              8" alloy rims; 31" BFG A/Ts
 homepage: http://www.scruz.net/~barneym/barnhome.htm
 ______________________________________________________________
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 13:56:26 -0500
 From: Karl Bellve  Subject: vented disk swap: better stops?
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 At 10:15 AM 1/22/98 -0700, you wrote:>breeze@cysource.com (Jeffrey Delzer) wrote:>>>These days people are quick to blame everything on overeating, but brake>>upgrades?? That's stretching things a bit.>>Ok, you're coming down a long, steep hill that requires quite a bit of>brake to keep the truck speed down. After a while, you find yourself>pushing harder and harder on the brake pedal to maintain slowing....>>Why is the brake efficiency dropping during this?>>I always believed it was because of the heat rise and fluid expansion>in the calipers. What do you think it is?>>Jay Kopycinski     '85 Toylet  (ROKTOY)> Jay,
 He said overEating, not overheating. ;-) Someone did a typo and
 blamed their brake fade on overEating.  And people took it from there.
 Karl Bellve, Ph.D.
 Biomedical Imaging Group
 University of Massachusetts
 email: kdb@molmed.ummed.edu
 www  : http://molmed.ummed.edu/~kdb/
 phone: 508-856-3785
 fax  : 508-856-1840
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 15:09:05 -0500
 From: Ed Ruf  Subject: vented disk swap: better stops?
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 At 10:15 AM 1/22/98 -0700, Jay Kopycinski illustriously expounded:>breeze@cysource.com (Jeffrey Delzer) wrote:>>>These days people are quick to blame everything on overeating, but brake>>upgrades?? That's stretching things a bit.>>Ok, you're coming down a long, steep hill that requires quite a bit of>brake to keep the truck speed down. After a while, you find yourself>pushing harder and harder on the brake pedal to maintain slowing....>>Why is the brake efficiency dropping during this?>>I always believed it was because of the heat rise and fluid expansion>in the calipers. What do you think it is?
 As long as the fluid remains a fluid, no effect. If you boil the fluid or
 worse if you have water in the fluid (most brake fluids are hygroscopic)
 which boils at even a lower temp, then you have to compress the vapor which
 results in a mushy pedal or greater pedal travel. A good reason to flush
 the fluid every other year or so as the water is also the main cause of
 corrosion in the calipers and wheel cylinders.
 The real culprit is as Runar mentioned. At higher temps the surface of the
 pads/shoes ablates. This causes a hot gas layer in between the disk and
 friction material. I also believe the coefficient of friction is lower at
 higher temps, gas layer aside.
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 13:13:50 -0700
 From: "Jay Kopycinski"  Subject: vented disk swap: better stops?
 To: Toyota 4x4 List >> breeze@cysource.com (Jeffrey Delzer) wrote:>>>>>These days people are quick to blame everything on overeating, but brake>>>upgrades?? That's stretching things a bit.
 Then I wrote:>> Ok, you're coming down a long, steep hill that requires quite a bit of>> brake to keep the truck speed down. After a while, you find yourself>> pushing harder and harder on the brake pedal to maintain slowing....>>>> Why is the brake efficiency dropping during this?>>>> I always believed it was because of the heat rise and fluid expansion>> in the calipers. What do you think it is?
 Eric, Jack and Bud were quick to point out that you really meant
 overEating, not overHeating. I'll go sit in a corner now and be
 quiet..........
 Jay Kopycinski     '85 Toylet  (ROKTOY)
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 14:14:20 -0800
 From: "Craig Blanchette"  Subject: vented disk swap: better stops?
 To:  Using the gears is not always an option. Around my home town, we have great
 offroad areas, all hills and mountains. On most of the trips I have taken,
 flat ground can be rare. The Toyotas almost all over heated their brakes due
 to the 4 cyl not being able to hold back the truck due to the steep slopes.
 Using the gears AND killing the brakes was the only answer. Might be one of
 the reasons brake pads are cheap around here!!! Course having a 350 now,
 theres plenty of engine to slow the truck. Only need the brakes to come to a
 complete stop...
 ====
 Craig Blanchette
 blanchet@cnx.net
 http://www.cnx.net/~blanchet
 ====
 - -----Original Message-----
 From: runars@isbank.is  To: Toy4x4@tlca.org  Date: Thursday, January 22, 1998 10:20 AM
 Subject: RE: vented disk swap: better stops?>Hey Jay, You do know you are not suposed to drive like this....  People>have gotten themselves killed this way.....:-((>>Use the gears, and stay away from the brakes....>>Runar>>> -----Original Message----->> From: Jay Kopycinski [SMTP:ryna10@email.sps.mot.com]>> Sent: Thursday, January 22, 1998 5:15 PM>> To: Toy4x4@tlca.org>> Subject: vented disk swap: better stops?>>>> breeze@cysource.com (Jeffrey Delzer) wrote:>>>>>These days people are quick to blame everything on overeating, but>> brake>>>upgrades?? That's stretching things a bit.>>>> Ok, you're coming down a long, steep hill that requires quite a bit of>> brake to keep the truck speed down. After a while, you find yourself>> pushing harder and harder on the brake pedal to maintain slowing....>>>> Why is the brake efficiency dropping during this?>>>> I always believed it was because of the heat rise and fluid expansion>> in the calipers. What do you think it is?>>>> Jay Kopycinski     '85 Toylet  (ROKTOY)
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 09:15:00 -0800
 From: "Smith, Patrick S."  Subject: Weedeater motor/12 V source
 To: Toyota 4x4 Listserver  I've seen one made out of an old chainsaw and a crankshaft pulley.  The
 rail was taken off the saw and the pulley was welded to the drive
 sprocket.  I never saw it in action but it looked perfect if you were
 stuck somewhere with a dead battery.  I would prefer this to a weedeater
 motor as it had two secure handles and a safety stop bar in case
 anything comes flying loose while you're turning the alternator.  You
 would definitely want to have a spare belt with you just in case.
 ----------
 From: DRM033
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Subject: Re: Moscow mt. (air comp)
 Date: Wednesday, January 21, 1998 2:41PM
 On this idea, I had one a while back.  I was going to hook up weed-eater
 motor
 to an alternator with pulleys and a belt.  I figured that this would be
 a
 portable 12v power source, and evan a way to charge a battery, etc.  If
 you
 built a silencing chamber attached to the exhaust pipe, the engine would
 not
 even be that loud.
 Any ideas on this?
 ---------------------------------------------------------------------
 David Moore                       DRM033@aol.com
 90 Toyota Truck - 4" ProComp, 33" Swampers,
 4.88's, rear ARB, TJM bumper & Ramsey #8000
 TLCA #5662
 Traxx In Motion 4 Wheel Drive Club
 ---------------------------------------------------------------------
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 15:03:30 -0600
 From: "Gallus, Brian"  Subject: West Coast Off-Road
 To: "'toy4x4@tlca.org'"  Anyone have a phone number or address for West Coast Off-Road?  I want
 to look into their 14" IFS kit again and can't seem to find the
 information that I had anywhere!
 Thanks!
 bkg
 - ---------------------------------------------------------------------
 Brian Gallus				87 4Runner SR5
 BrianGallus@DynaMark.com		33's, 4.88's, TrueTrac
 Vadnais Heights, MN			3" Rancho, 2" body
 Minnesota Toyx4's #95 /  MN4WDA  / TLCA #5581
 http://www.off-road.com/~MNTOYX4
 - ----------------------------------------------------------------------
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 14:05:23 -0800
 From: Ken Emanuel  Subject: West Coast Off-Road
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Gallus, Brian wrote:>> Anyone have a phone number or address for West Coast Off-Road?  I want> to look into their 14" IFS kit again and can't seem to find the> information that I had anywhere!> Thanks!
 WCOR can be reached at 1-800-918-0285
 If I remember correctly, it is a pager number, so don't be suprised when
 you hear the beeps.
 *-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*
 Ken Emanuel                     Emanuel@csus.edu
 '87 Xtra Cab SR5    (22R-E)
 http://webpages.csus.edu/~sac75830/toystuff.htm
 *-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 13:13:51 -0500
 From: matt877@juno.com (Matthew C Chapin)
 Subject: What engine is in an 80 SR5
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org
 I found an 80 SR5 4x4 with a 20R engine from a corrolla in it.  Is this
 the correct engine for the truck, it has a four speed tranny too. It
 seems like it has enough power, but I thought the SR5 came w/ a 22R.  How
 about the four speed, is that gonna give me any problems? The engine has
 under 10k on it and the tranny has under 64k. Should this give me any
 problems?  It didnt seem to be lacking any power in any gear... so what
 do you guys think? By the way... the body is in A+++ condition no rust
 and no dents (in Pa.), new paint, everything is stock except for 30"
 tires  the best part is the guy only wants $2700!!!
 Thanks
 Matt Chapin
 ------------------------------
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