Toy4x4 Digest          Thu, 22 Jan 98 00:30:02 (HST)  Volume 1 : Issue 670
 Today's Topics:
 3.0 V6 headers
 87 Window Crank
 A/C compressor cycling (2 msgs)
 Bio
 Diffs are in!
 Front shocks rreplacement on Tacoma
  front spring question
 Fuel cut RPM
 fuel empty light (2 msgs)
 is this a sign of timing belt demise???
 Looking to buy 92 4runner 5 speed
 Moscow mt.
 Moscow mt. (air comp) (2 msgs)
 Need advice on lifting '85 4Runner to clear 35" BFGs
 noise(belts)
 personal bio info
 Prose from our own "Bard"- Ed Wong
 Rear Coil Spring Replacement (2 msgs)
 Saving oil-soaked brake shoes
 shackles
 Speedometer adjustment (3 msgs)
 SPINGME
 SPRING ME
 tach adj
 tires (2 msgs)
 Toy4x4-Request: Bio
 Toy4x4 Digest V1 #668
 Toy4x4 Digest V1 #669
 Truck Pricing
 Valve Adjustment?
 vented disk swap: better stops? (2 msgs)
 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
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 ----------------------------------------------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 16:56:40 -0800
 From: Jerald Josephs  Subject: 3.0 V6 headers
 To: Toy4x4  This is a resend because toy4x4@tcla.org rejected my post.I was digitally signing my outgoing
 email, which is included as
 an attachment.
 I have since learned that many SMTP servers are rejected attachments.It's a security thing.
 - --- jer>>> ------------------------------>>>>>> Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 19:19:45 -0600>>> From: Steve Harron & Jennifer Lippold >>> Subject: 3.0 V6 Headers>>> To: toy4x4@tlca.org>>>>>> I thought I saw someone talking about "Legal" headers for the 3.0>>> 4Runners?  I want some headers that are 50 state legal as I may be>>> transfered to Los Angeles next year.  Any input on headers would be>>> appreciated.  What is the best set up for a daily driven vehicle?  I am>>> also going to get the throttle body bored out to go with my K&N>>> filtercharger.>>>>>> ------------------------------>>>>>> Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 17:42:38 -0800>>> From: Scott Wilson >>> Subject: 3.0 V6 Headers>>> To: Toy4x4@tlca.org>>>>>> Steve Harron & Jennifer Lippold wrote:>>>>>>>> I thought I saw someone talking about "Legal" headers for the 3.0>>>> 4Runners?  I want some headers that are 50 state legal as I may be>>>> transfered to Los Angeles next year.  Any input on headers would be>>>> appreciated.>>>>>> As far as I know Downey V6 headers are the only ones legal in CA...and>>> that only happened a few months back.>>>>>> Scott>>> - -->>>>>>> I have talked to quite a few savvy Toyota mechanics both at the dealerships>> and privately, several in a casual conversation over a beer, and so far no-one>> supports the idea of installing headers nor polishing the intake manifold, which>> are two of the first modifications I would consider for my V6.>>>> Apparantly, it has little affect on low end torque, which is what I was hoping>> for, nor does it improve performance significantly to justify the expense.  What I did>> learn from these folks is that if I left my engine stock, I would enjoy it for far longer>> with less expense.>>>> I then asked about replacing the stock exhaust on my 22RE 4Runner and the Toyota>> dealership mechanic also refuted any performance gains.  I specifically stated that I>> was looking for an increase in low-end torque.>>>> My conclusion for the 4Runner is that if I want it to wheel successfully, I should>> invest in gears and a lift that is tall enough for 35s>>>> I would welcome, however, other points-of-view and experiences.>> I have always believed that there was *something* I could do to improve performance>> without sacrificing too much of longevity.>>>> -->> Jerald E. Josephs                         Nokia IP Routing>> Customer Support Engineer                 232 Java Drive, Sunnyvale, CA 94089-1318>> jerald.josephs@ipsilon.com                (408) 990-2000        fax (408) 743-5679>> phone (408) 990-2175                      http://www.ipsilon.com
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 18:48:01 -0800
 From: "Todd and Terry Steele"  Subject: 87 Window Crank
 To:  James Womack wrote:>I have an 87 P/U that has developed a stripped window crank problem.  I had the same problem in my wife's 86 4Runner.  Got a crank assembly and
 weather stripping from the junk yard, popped of the door panel and replaced
 it.  Never had a problem after that. 2 bannana job at the most.
 Todd
 His:  87 Toyota 4X4, Marlin Tcase #180, EZ Lockers F/R, Custom rear bumper
 and nerfs, Ramsey F bumper, Trailmaster/Superlift 4", 33-9.5 BFG MT's.
 Custom Body by Sierra Nevada.
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 16:23:11 -0700
 From: "Jay Kopycinski"  Subject: A/C compressor cycling
 To: Toyota 4x4 List  "Donald Leamon"  wrote:>My '87 foreskinner's A/C system is acting up, again. When I first engage>the compressor at idle, RPM's rise (ok) but continue up to about 1200, then>the compressor disengages, RPM's fall back to idle, and the whole process>starts over again. It cycles like this about every two seconds.>>The problem first occurred several years ago, and I had a Toyota dealer>service it. The repair was something along the lines of, "adjusting A/C>oscillator."
 Sounds like you may just need to adjust the potentiometer on the ac
 amplifier under the dash (behind the glove box). Your manual should
 explain how this is done. It controls the idle speed point where the ac
 compressor cycles on and off.
 Jay Kopycinski     '85 Toylet  (ROKTOY)
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 17:34:29 -0800
 From: "Roger Brown P.E."  Subject: A/C compressor cycling
 To: dleamon@paccar.com
 Donald wrote:>> My '87 foreskinner's A/C system is acting up, again. When I first engage
 the compressor at idle, RPM's rise (ok) but continue up to about 1200, then
 the compressor disengages, RPM's fall back to idle, and the whole process
 starts over again. It cycles like this about every two seconds.
 The problem first occurred several years ago, and I had a Toyota dealer
 service it. The repair was something along the lines of, "adjusting A/C
 oscillator."
< Subject: Bio
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org>Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 17:30:11 -1000>To: gte155f@prism.gatech.edu>From: Toy4x4-Request>Reply-To: Toy4x4 >Subject: Bio>Content-Length: 363>>Personal Bio Info>>POST TO THE LIST ONLY>> toy4x4@tlca.org>+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++>>Name:James M. Brearley>>City & State:Atlanta, GA>>Country:USA>>E-mail address:gte155f@prism.gatech.edu>>Toyota (s) year & model:1989, 4x4 ext. cab>>Are you a TLCA Member (Y/N/Number?):N>>Age:18>>Occupation:student>>Marital Status:single>>Hobbies:4 wheeling, backpacking, skiing, sailing>>How did you find out about the Toyota 4x4 Mailing List:internet>>General info about your vehicle, self, etc.:nothing special!>>> ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 23:09:33 -0800
 From: Eric Johnson  Subject: Diffs are in!
 To: "'4x4nw@off-road.com'" <4x4nw@off-road.com>,
 I finally got both my diffs in! Wow, that front third member is a bear to
 install. The rear takes 20 minutesl the front takes hours.
 I went from 4.30 to 4.88 gears and from open diffs to Truetracs front and
 rear.
 Hopefully, I'll get a chance to test this weekend, I'll let you all know
 how they perform off-road. On road, with front hubs unlocked, its virtually
 invisible; maybe a TINY bit of understeer in tight corners. With hubs
 locked, I get a little bit of a pull...
 - --
 - - ej@blarg.net
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 19:13:26 -0600
 From: "John E. Sanders Jr."  Subject: Front shocks rreplacement on Tacoma
 To:  This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
 - ------=_NextPart_000_0008_01BD26A0.A66A2940
 Content-Type: text/plain;
 charset="iso-8859-1"
 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
 I know I should not have tried this at home, but I did. I'm replacing =
 shocks on my 97 Tacoma with Bilsteins. Back shocks are on, no problem. =
 Got one shock off front and ran into trouble. It seems I need something =
 that will compress the spring. Question is..... is there an easy way to =
 do this? Complete steps in uninstalling and reinstalling front shocks =
 would be appreciated.
 Thanks, John
 P.S. This is my daily driver, need any replies ASAP.
 - ------=_NextPart_000_0008_01BD26A0.A66A2940
 Content-Type: text/html;
 charset="iso-8859-1"
 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I know I should not have tried this =
 at home, but=20
 I did. I'm replacing shocks on my =
 97 Tacoma=20
 with Bilsteins. Back shocks are on, no problem. Got one shock off front =
 and ran=20
 into trouble. It seems I need something that will compress the spring. =
 Question=20
 is..... is there an easy way to do this? Complete steps in uninstalling =
 and=20
 reinstalling front shocks would be appreciated.
          &nbs=
 p;            =
 ;            =
             &=
 nbsp;        =20
 Thanks, John
P.S. This is my daily driver, need =
 any replies=20
 ASAP.
 - ------=_NextPart_000_0008_01BD26A0.A66A2940--
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 13:45:41 +1100
 From: Juha Sarimaa  Subject: front spring question
 To: Jack Alford  David,> I saw somewhere that someone had used Jeep wrangler rear springs in the
 front of their Toy truck.
 Off-Road.com has a 85 Toy flat bed as a feature vehicle in the Toyota section
 and if I remember correctly it has Jeep Wrangler springs up front.> Does anyone have any more info on this, or know what is
 involved?
 I think the YJ springs are slightly wider but they still fit.  There are
 definitely people on this list that know more about this that I do.
 Juha.
 85 Hilux Single cab
 50% 94 Dual cab
 - -----------------------------------------------------------------------
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 23:22:20 -0800
 From: James Brink  Subject: Fuel cut RPM
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Jay Kopycinski wrote:>> ishi-tib@juno.com (J Doherty) wrote:>>>     Here's the problem my 88 p/u dies when i hit the brakes. it runs>>fine and has plenty of power till i have to slow down then it stalls.  I>>know there is a fuel cut RPM switch atached to the brakes but I have no>>idea how to check the system and adjust . also the mas airflow sensor is>>making noises. I know  this is normaly a sign of timing problems but it's>>at 5deg with the check conector shorted. Could they be related?>> Could it be a leak in the brake booster causing a vacuum leak at the> intake manifold that then causes the engine to die?>> You may try disconnecting the vacuum line, and plugging the intake> end and trying the brake test again.
 Good advice. Another item to suspect would be the check valve inline
 with the booster hose.
 - --
 Jim Brink, Toyota/ASE Certified Technician	1986 Std. Bed 4x4
 Manhattan Beach, CA				32x11.50/15 BFG M/Ts
 ToyTech@Off-Road.com
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 00:11:09 -0500
 From: ray  Subject: fuel empty light
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 I made my truck SR5 but i need to know if i need a different fuel sender
 unit in the tank to make the low fuel level in the gauge works.Also i
 need the digital clock that goes on the dash.And i have an extra 1991
 SR5 instrument panel for V6 .Please let me know any help.
 THANKS
 RAY
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 21:42:56 +0000
 From: Chris Geiger  Subject: fuel empty light
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 My 93 Pickup had the light in the dash board but the sender in the tank
 did not have the second output for the light and the extra wire going
 from the tank to the dash was missing from the factory. Seemed like too
 much work to get it working.
 Chris Geiger 93 4Runner (I use to have a 93 Pickup)
 http://geiger.mcl.ucsb.edu/offroad.html
 ray wrote:> I made my truck SR5 but i need to know if i need a different fuel> sender> unit in the tank to make the low fuel level in the gauge works.Also i> need the digital clock that goes on the dash.And i have an extra 1991> SR5 instrument panel for V6 .Please let me know any help.> THANKS> RAY
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 20:24:26 -0700
 From: Tony Bartlett  Subject: is this a sign of timing belt demise???
 To: Toy4x4  Hey, I just came up with another thought besides the trans fluid temp
 sensor.
 I had a mazda once that would not shift into overdrive while the engine
 was still cold.  It would keep the RPM's up until it warmed up then
 would shift to overdrive.
 This car would be driving fine and then for no reason downshift to
 third.  I finally saw that the temp gauge would also drop low.
 Found out it was the t-stat sticking open every once in a while.
 Might keep an eye on the engine temp gauge.
 Tony.
 Leo, did you check to see if it is actually downshifting??
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 00:54:25 -0700
 From: "Ryan Leed"  Subject: Looking to buy 92 4runner 5 speed
 To:  Hi,
 I am new to the list and currently looking for a used 4runner.  I have come
 across a 92 5 speed with full power and the V6 with 99k on the odometer.
 After reading some of the posts I realize that there are some problems with
 this engine, i.e. head gaskets.  It is my understanding the Toyota will
 replace the head gaskets free of charge if the car has under 100k on the
 odometer.  Is there any other restrictions that apply?   I will be looking
 and testing out this car today.  Does anyone have any tips on what I should
 check or look for?  Thanks in advance
 _____________________________
 |                  Ryan Leed
 |           rleed@u.arizona.edu
 |  http://www.u.arizona.edu/~rleed/
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 17:48:49 -0800
 From: "Roger Brown P.E."  Subject: Moscow mt.
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org
 Jonathan Albrecht  wrote:>Friday night I got a call at about 5:30 from this guy I met about a>month ago right before I went home for winter break, and he wants to>know if I'm up for 4xing at 7:00.  Am I!  Hell yeah. ..
 Excellent story, it brought back memories of my first "stuck" on Moscow
 Mountain when I was in High School.  Was driving my dad's 1970 C***y
 2WD/automatic down after a weekend camping.  A foot of new snow covered the
 road and upon rounding a steeply banked, downhill corner, I needed to brake to
 keep the speed down and that caused the rear end of the truck to do slow slide
 into the ditch, followed by the front end.  No HiLift but we did the old
 jack-it-up and push-it-off trick a few times.  Nearly had it out but the tow
 truck arrived and got me out.
 Never like automatics or 2WDs after that :-)
 - --
 Roger Brown, P.E.        mailto:rogerb@sgi.com
 +1.650.933.1898 (vmail)  +1.650.932.1898 (fax)
 http://reality.sgi.com/rogerb/
 Check out the SGI EuroDev Forum: http://www-devprg.sgi.de/Forum98/
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 17:41:43 EST
 From: DRM033  Subject: Moscow mt. (air comp)
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 In a message dated 98-01-21 12:07:33 EST, you write:>  You'll have to get some pics of that beast - sounds like he might have
 taken>  the compressor from an old electric air compressor off, and hooked it up to>  his engine.>>  - Brian
 On this idea, I had one a while back.  I was going to hook up weed-eater motor
 to an alternator with pulleys and a belt.  I figured that this would be a
 portable 12v power source, and evan a way to charge a battery, etc.  If you
 built a silencing chamber attached to the exhaust pipe, the engine would not
 even be that loud.
 Any ideas on this?
 - ---------------------------------------------------------------------
 David Moore                       DRM033@aol.com
 90 Toyota Truck - 4" ProComp, 33" Swampers,
 4.88's, rear ARB, TJM bumper & Ramsey #8000
 TLCA #5662
 Traxx In Motion 4 Wheel Drive Club
 - ---------------------------------------------------------------------
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 18:57:43 -0500
 From: Darren Floen  Subject: Moscow mt. (air comp)
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 David,i built a similar setup at work for boosting heavy trucks and
 equipment in the winter.It uses a 12 hp Honda engine,and two generators
 from an old cat loader.There is also two big truck batterys and an
 ammeter on a wheeled platform.When you put a heavy load on it the engine
 really bogs down.A weedeater might be a little small for this type of
 application.Remember too,you will need a 12v. battery to power the field
 terminals of an alternator,or you could use the battery in your truck.
 It would work if the alternator was geared properly.Use a GM 1 wire
 alternator,with an aligater clamp on the wire,and a lead from the
 alt.case with a clamp.Hook up the wires to your battery,fire it up,and
 it should charge up your battery(maybe slowly).
 Try it out,Dave,and let us know the details.
 Darren
 DRM033 wrote:>> In a message dated 98-01-21 12:07:33 EST, you write:>>>  You'll have to get some pics of that beast - sounds like he might have> taken>>  the compressor from an old electric air compressor off, and hooked it up to>>  his engine.>>>>  - Brian>> On this idea, I had one a while back.  I was going to hook up weed-eater motor> to an alternator with pulleys and a belt.  I figured that this would be a> portable 12v power source, and evan a way to charge a battery, etc.  If you> built a silencing chamber attached to the exhaust pipe, the engine would not> even be that loud.> Any ideas on this?>> ---------------------------------------------------------------------> David Moore                       DRM033@aol.com> 90 Toyota Truck - 4" ProComp, 33" Swampers,> 4.88's, rear ARB, TJM bumper & Ramsey #8000>                       TLCA #5662>        Traxx In Motion 4 Wheel Drive Club> ---------------------------------------------------------------------
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 00:27:39 -0800
 From: Jerald Josephs  Subject: Need advice on lifting '85 4Runner to clear 35" BFGs
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org
 I think I have finally settled on the rubber and now I just need to
 get the clearance.  I checked 4WPW's catalog and it appears that the
 only set of leaf springs that are going to go above 4" are the
 SuperLifts.
 I would like to avoid the use of a body lift and I definitely do not
 want to cut any sheet metal.  The truck has some (Bushwacker?)
 fender flares.
 Is this going to be possible, or am I dreaming?
 - --
 Jerald E. Josephs                         Nokia IP Routing
 Customer Support Engineer                 232 Java Drive, Sunnyvale, CA
 94089-1318
 jerald.josephs@ipsilon.com                (408) 990-2000        fax
 (408) 743-5679
 phone (408) 990-2175                      http://www.ipsilon.com
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 00:06:59 -0800
 From: James Brink  Subject: noise(belts)
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Herman Snodgrass wrote:>> Hello all,>         I was changing the belts on my '86 truck(sr5) yesterday and I think I> couldn't get the alternator belt tight enough.  It now screams bloody> murder sometimes.  Is there some trick to getting the alt. belt tight?  It> seems rather difficult due to it position.(under the p/s pump)> Try to get a long screw driver or prybar just above the alternator and
 wedge the tip of it onto one of the protusions on the block or timing
 cover. Pry on the ear of the alternator that houses the adjuster bolt.
 - --
 Jim Brink, Toyota/ASE Certified Technician	1986 Std. Bed 4x4
 Manhattan Beach, CA				32x11.50/15 BFG M/Ts
 ToyTech@Off-Road.com
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 22:06:58 -0700
 From: Shane Hoffmeyer  Subject: personal bio info
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org
 Name: Shane Hoffmeyer
 City & State: Tucson,AZ
 Country: U.S.A.
 E-mail address: hoffmeye@u.arizona.edu
 Toyota (s) year & model: An '86 & an '81 Toy
 Are you a TLCA member (Y/NNumber?): NO
 Age: 21
 Occupation: Full time college student
 Marital Status: SINGLE!!!!!!!
 Hobbies: Rockclimbing, skiing, mountaineering, mountain biking, hiking,
 camping, hunting, fishing, shooting, and 4-WHEELING!
 How did you find out about the Toyota 4x4 Mailing List:
 A friend of mine is a member of a similar list for jeep owners.
 I decided to find one for yoda's because they really help out
 alot.
 General info about your vehicle, self, etc.:
 Well, I'll stick to the '86. First off, I swaped in a solid
 axle from an '85 toy. It's got a recently rebuilt 22R (1982)
 bored 20 over with a Downey mid-range cam. Other upgrades
 include a CenterForce Dual-Friction clutch, Doetsch tech
 shocks, Downey 3" suspension lift, Downey H.D. shackles,
 4.88 gears, custom rear bumper, dual steering stabilizer,
 dual shocks up front, BFG 33x12.5 MT's, a sweet primer gray
 paint job, and a recently rebuilt G52 5-speed tranny.(New
 synchros, bearings, input shaft, the works! I feel that I am
 personally keeping the tranny shop in business!)
 I plan on doing a rear disc brake conversion, sway-bar
 dissconnect, ARB lockers front and rear, Downey heavier
 fly-wheel, 20R head swap, Offenhauser intake, Weber carb,
 K&N filter, ARB front bumper, stronger tie-rod, and possibly
 a Bavarian Green paint scheme with a kick ass airbrushing on
 the tailgate! Whew!
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 16:39:36 -0800
 From: eric@qnis.net
 Subject: Prose from our own "Bard"- Ed Wong
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org
 I was re-reading some old posts, and I ran accross this bit of prose Ed
 wrote last summer.
 I enjoyed it again, and I thought you folks might too.
 Check it out below-
 Eric Mewhirter (central CA)
 - -----------------------------------------------------
 From: Ed.Wong@astramerck.com
 Subject: Rotor Removal
 To:(052)toy4x4(a)tlca.org"  I too struggled in the quest to remove scored rotors.
 When the hub rotor combo was on the floor I said:
 "Great Ceaser's Gost! There must be a way to loosen
 those bolts."
 To wit I hear "Archemdies say - give me a place to
 stand a long enough lever and I can move the world"
 Oh woe is me! I have a breaker bar, I have a 1/2 drive
 socket that fits - and 6 point Craftsman to boot! I have
 a socket extension so I can reach deep down. I even
 have a 4 foot section of ductile water pipe - a long enough
 lever is there ever was on to behold!
 But to stand - where can I stand! My truck for a
 do-hickey thing-a-ma-jig to hold the rotor still!
 Then a small voice sez - Ask for what you seek
 and I shall deliver!
 I need a holder for the rotor - something that perhaps
 has holes that line up with the studs. And this
 rotor holder needs to be big and strong and
 sturdy. The magical holder must withstand
 high torque loads as I twist on the breaker
 bar. It must the big enough that I can stand
 on it to hold the rotor still.
 A clap of thunder!
 One of the tires I took off falls over on my toes.
 DOH!
 Who needs an impact wrench? - I have rocks in my head!
 EWong
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 18:45:08 -0800
 From: Sharky  Subject: Rear Coil Spring Replacement
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Sorry for the silly question, I'm a newbie. I want to change the rear
 coils on my saggy butt 95 4-Runner to Downey 1.5" springs. I've never
 done this sort of suspension work before, so what is the proper way to
 drop the coils? I know I have to disconnect the shocks, and what else?
 Will I need a spring compressor or any special tools? Thanks.
 Randy
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 21:30:03 +0000
 From: Chris Geiger  Subject: Rear Coil Spring Replacement
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 It's easy! The kit comes with springs, a longer break line, and a drop
 bracket for the rear break proportion valve. First install the longer
 break line and blead the breaks at both rear drums and the rear valve.
 Then remove the bottom bolt of each rear shock and pull the shocks off
 the bottom mount. Jack the truck way up high by the frame so that the
 rear axle hangs down, remove the rear wheels to get it to drop further.
 The springs should now come out by hand. Install the new springs, and
 then the drop bracket. reassemble it all and your done!
 Some people find that the rear breaks work better if you tie up the rear
 proportion valve arm and cut it off. Otherwise most of the break effort
 is from the front breaks and the rears are used much at all.
 Chris Geiger 93 4Runner http://geiger.mcl.ucsb.edu/offroad.html
 Sharky wrote:> Sorry for the silly question, I'm a newbie. I want to change the rear> coils on my saggy butt 95 4-Runner to Downey 1.5" springs. I've never> done this sort of suspension work before, so what is the proper way to>> drop the coils? I know I have to disconnect the shocks, and what else?>> Will I need a spring compressor or any special tools? Thanks.>> Randy
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 01:05:16 -0500
 From: jrwood@recorder.ca
 Subject: Saving oil-soaked brake shoes
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org> Roger wrote:>> Is it a sure thing that the brake shoes are soaked with oil and will need> replacing?
 I had luck with spraying the shoes with brake cleaner and using a torch
 (large orange flame, not oxygen-rich cutting flame) to heat the linings;
 this brings the oil in the linings up to the surface where you can spray
 more brake cleaner, hose off, heat, spray, hose. This should save the
 shoes, if they are thick enough to save in the first place. Anyone else
 try this before?
 p.s. Are the diff breathers plugged?
 Woodsy
 87 4Runner mostly stock (just purchased)
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 21:07:00 -0500
 From: Darren Floen  Subject: shackles
 To: Toy4x4  Hey everyone,I need some longer front shackles for my 85 Toy.I am
 wondering who sells a complete kit with bolts and bushings.I'm looking
 for 2" longer reinforced shackles.Who's got the best price?If the price
 is right i may buy them instead of fabbing them.
 Also,i want to extend my front shock mounts,and i may fab my own but i
 was thinking about the ford shock mount swap.What is the exact model
 that i need(F250-F350,2wd or 4wd)?
 Thanks
 Darren Floen
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 16:49:52 -0600
 From: breeze@cysource.com (Jeffrey Delzer)
 Subject: Speedometer adjustment
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 davidl@city.victoria.bc.ca wrote:>> I recently did the same thing when I swapped instrument clusters on my 89> 4runner.  I VERY GENTLY pried the speedo needle off from the front.>> This knowledge also came in handy when I added 31x10.5 tires.  I measured> the rolling circumference, then working backward from the tires for a given> speed, I could calculate the RPM.  Then while driving at the proper RPM, I> took the speedo needle off and repositioned it at the correct speed.
 Overlooking for a moment how dangerous it can be to fiddle with your
 speedo needle while driving down the road trying to maintain a steady
 speed, I think your 'fix' only corrects the indicated speed at that one
 specific speed that you tested. Speeds above and below that test speed
 will still be off.
 Jeff Delzer
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 15:01:05 -0800
 From: "Craig Blanchette"  Subject: Speedometer adjustment
 To:  Since everyone is proud of their high k's. I just wanted to let everyone
 know my 1982 22r (which I just replaced with a chevy 350). had 358,000 km on
 it. I never did spend the time to figure actual km since the truck spent 4
 or more years on 31's and 2 years on 33's.
 ====
 Craig Blanchette
 blanchet@cnx.net
 http://www.cnx.net/~blanchet
 ====
 - -----Original Message-----
 From: Rosenberger Bud  To: Toy4x4@tlca.org  Date: Wednesday, January 21, 1998 11:10 AM
 Subject: RE: Speedometer adjustment>>Brian wrote:>>>it might be a way to make slight compensations for age/wear on the>speedo>>(i.e. gets older - registers a bit lower?)>>I had my speedo checked at the speedo shop and they said that they do>read slower with age.  The speedo is run on a magnetic drive.  Basically,>the cable is attached to a rotating magnet and the needle base is a steel>wheel in close proximity.  The needle base becomes magnetized over time>and it reads slower.  The odo is all gears tho and does not degrade.>>As far as wanting to register actual miles, I agree.  I get a giggle when>I look at the 165K on mine!  I wouldn't want to replace it with a younger>model.  Of course, I use the same line with my wife!  She's 41 but>doesn't look a day over 40!  :)>>Bud R.>> ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 19:28:42 -0800
 From: Jason Redman  Subject: Speedometer adjustment
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 davidl@city.victoria.bc.ca wrote:> This knowledge also came in handy when I added 31x10.5 tires.  I> measured> the rolling circumference, then working backward from the tires for a> given> speed, I could calculate the RPM.  Then while driving at the proper> RPM, I> took the speedo needle off and repositioned it at the correct speed.
 Wouldn't this only work at one speed (whatever speed you were driving at
 when you repositioned the needle)?  So say you have a ten percent
 difference (when the speedo reads 50, you're actually going 55) and you
 reposition it at 50 (move it to 55).  Then wouldn't it now read higher
 than actual when going less than 55, and still read lower than actual
 when going faster than 55?  Or did you just want to center the
 difference and get a closer reading most of the time?
 Austin Marriage
 yeti@inetworld.net
 96 Tacoma XCab 4X4 V6, 4"Downey, 33"BFG M/T's
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 17:41:32 EST
 From: DRM033  Subject: SPINGME
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 In a message dated 98-01-21 10:43:52 EST, you write:> Will the truck look like the ass is sticking up in the air too much ?>  Does having different lift size springs on the front and then back>  matter if the truck is level ?> If you are worried that 3" springs in the rear is too much, get a 1" block,
 and some longer shackles.  Cheaper, and easier.  plus, you can play with the
 height till you get it right.
 - ---------------------------------------------------------------------
 David Moore                       DRM033@aol.com
 90 Toyota Truck - 4" ProComp, 33" Swampers,
 4.88's, rear ARB, TJM bumper & Ramsey #8000
 TLCA #5662
 Traxx In Motion 4 Wheel Drive Club
 - ---------------------------------------------------------------------
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 15:49:10 -0700
 From: "Jay Kopycinski"  Subject: SPRING ME
 To: Toyota 4x4 List  michael carroll  wrote:
 snip>heres what I nned to know :>If I get rear three inch springs and put them on the ride height>should be 3' frnt 3'back(assuming I get full 3 inches of lift)>basically saying that the back will ride a little higher at first but>then droop over time ?>Will the truck look like the ass is sticking up in the air too much ?
 Hard to say. That's why I recommend you drive it on blocks, boards,
 jack it up, etc. to see how it looks. Trucks are gonna vary and this
 is your best bet for getting the lift and height you want based on looks.>Does having different lift size springs on the front and then back>matter if the truck is level ?
 I don't really know what lift my springs are, but would bet they're
 not the same. I run a combo of springs, moved mounts, shackles
 and short blocks to get the lift I have.
 Jay Kopycinski    '85 Toylet  (ROKTOY)
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 19:47:41 EST
 From: ishi-tib@juno.com (J Doherty)
 Subject: tach adj
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org
 In your case, you have a 4 cylinder driving a V6 tach so that the
 displayed
 engine speed is actually 67% of actual. In essence what you need is
 something to increase the pulse rate by150%, or by increasing the current
 at the meter itself by 150%. This will require a more complicated circuit
 than the simple resistor method.
 Is there a resistor before the tach if so could I install another one
 parallel to it to increase the current at the meter.
 - --Jack--
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 14:25:59 -0800
 From: "j. sather"  Subject: tires
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 I have just put a 3` lift in my truck and it`s time to retire. I am looking
 for sugesions on size . 33x12.50 Or 35xsomething . I think I should go 35`s
 but need to
 know of any more modification to be done to the fenderwells
 Second problem is my longer brake lines I installed to acomidate the lift
 seem very vulnerable, expecially the rear .
 Any ideas  ???????
 lana & jamie sather
 cruiser4x4@coastnet.com
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 15:12:20 -0800
 From: Chris Geiger  Subject: tires
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 You did not say what year truck you have, if your planning to put them
 on an IFS truck than you will need about 6" of lift, a 4" suspension and
 2" body lift, or you may be able to open up the fenders and not put the
 body lift on. Have you will also need to change the gears in the diffs
 with 33 or 35" tires. Are you building a truck that just has the
 off-road look or something that will would work well on the trail? If
 trailability is what what you want you should look into getting Lockers
 front and rear. With a 3" body lift you should be able to clear 33"
 tires as long as you stick to 8" wheels with 4.5" of backspacing.
 Chris Geiger 93 4Runner http://geiger.mcl.ucsb.edu/offroad.html
 j. sather wrote:> I have just put a 3` lift in my truck and it`s time to retire. I am> looking> for sugesions on size . 33x12.50 Or 35xsomething . I think I should go> 35`s> but need to> know of any more modification to be done to the fenderwells
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 20:35:36 -1000
 From: littlebastard1@juno.com (james w anthony)
 Subject: Toy4x4-Request: Bio
 To: TOY4x4@TLCA.ORG
 - --------- Begin forwarded message ----------
 From: Toy4x4-Request To: littlebastard1@juno.com
 Subject: Bio
 Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 17:30:09 -1000
 Message-ID: <199801220330.RAA01545@unix.off-road.com> Personal Bio Info
 POST TO THE LIST ONLY>> toy4x4@tlca.org
 +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
 Name:JAMES ANTHONY
 City & State:HONOLULU, HI
 Country:
 E-mail address:littlebastard1@juno.com
 Toyota (s) year & model:94  4runner
 Are you a TLCA Member (Y/N/Number?):N
 Age:26
 Occupation:Diver
 Marital Status:Single
 Hobbies:Any sport, reading, working out
 How did you find out about the Toyota 4x4 Mailing List: Just screwing
 around on the web.
 General info about your vehicle, self, etc.:
 My vehicle is pretty much loaded out with all of the stock stuff.   It is
 a red 4runner with tan interior.  As for information about myself,  I
 think it would be rather dull to talk about me.  I am kind of tired
 anyway, it has been a long day.   I will include more info about me at a
 later time.
 - --------- End forwarded message ----------
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 19:58:03 -0700
 From: daves8@juno.com (DAVE SCHOENBERG)
 Subject: Toy4x4 Digest V1 #668
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Me, too!!!  Anybody got the parts???
 Dave Schoenberg, Arvada, Colorado-----Who else gives advice like this???
 '81 Toy/'86 EFI engine/5-spd/xfer--an' I did it all myself, with NO
 Liquid Nails!!
 Brakes and heater both work exceedingly well, thank you.
 Thank You for subscribing to "Dave's Automotively Mechanical Humor Line".
 DaveS8@Juno.com
 On Wed, 21 Jan 1998 10:34:29 EST Wbsims  writes:>I have a stock 81 long bed and would like power steering. is there any
 way to add power steering to my truck.
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 20:42:18 -0600
 From: Chuck & Birgit Schladenhauffen <4RUNNER4X4@prodigy.net> Subject: Toy4x4 Digest V1 #669
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 09:51:27 -0700
 From: "Jay Kopycinski"  Subject: Rear axle oil seal replacement
 To: Toyota 4x4 List  Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
 "Roger Brown P.E."  wrote:>I've recently noticed a gear oil leaking onto one of my rear wheels.  Its
 an>'85 4Runner and its definitely gear oil,
 Make sure to check you Diffs Vents if there blockage it will push the
 diff oil out the seals also.  Been There Done That Seals dont leak
 Good luck.
 soon to be a NEW TLCA Member just waiting for TLCA to do ther thing.
 - --
 Chuck & Birgit Schladenhauffen
 4RUNNER4X4  85  &  88 4Runners
 http://members.tripod.com/~schladenhauffen/index.html
 My 4Runner Homepage
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 20:42:24 -0700
 From: marc sahr  Subject: Truck Pricing
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org
 Thought I'd throw in my .02 ......>I need your advise again.  On two things actually.>1. I need to know what you all think is a fair price for the following:>1985 Toyota Xtra-cab 4x4 - PS - Tool box - Custom Light Bar - 40ch CB -
 AM/FM/>Cassette - Tool pouch - Brush Guard - New Warn Hubs - New Clutch - Well taken>care of - Pre wired for Two off-road lights on top - Dent on Front right>fender - light dents in bed floor - Interior clean with floor mats.>            I'm looking for a good starting price.
 What are the floor dents from? Looks like it got some pretty rough
 wheeling, but if it was well maintained, might be worth a look. My
 estimate, based on similar vehicles in Phoenix, AZ... around $4500. Check
 out those floor dents, though.>2. I'm looking at an '85 4Runner and here's what I've found out so far about>it.>1985 Toyota 4Runner - Inside smells like a sleazy Motel (The truck is on a>lot) - Clutch is going out - Wiper seals are bad(possibly more) - Engine oil>leak(not sure where from) - Exhaust leak(off of Manifold) - Window on Tail>gate won't go down or up - Dents on Roof - Console inbetween seats is broke ->Cage over the rear.>            What would any of you pay for this truck??  ( A ball park number>would suffice).  The dealer wants $6000.  To me thats sounds way to high.  I>know it's hard to say with out seeing it but any idea would help.>   Thanks,>        Chuck
 WOW!! This one sound like a real piece of $#!^. If you really want it, pay
 NO MORE than $2500, tops. And this is being VERY generous.
 For a point of comparison, good to very nice 4Runners sell anywhere from
 $4500 to $9500 (not a typo) 84-89 vintage. Good ones FLY off dealer lots...
 definitely a sellers' market in Phx. My 84 pickup (SR5, 4x4, longbed, 160k
 mi, 'glass shell, excellent mechanical condition, very stock, rusted bed,
 but runs and drives like new with a PERFECT gray interior.... $1500, a real
 steal.
 Good luck. Look for a better 'runner, though.
 Marc Sahr
 msahr@primenet.com
 TLCA 5056
 76 FJ40, 84 SR5 4x4 LB
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 22:47:48 -0600
 From: Steve Harron & Jennifer Lippold  Subject: Valve Adjustment?
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org
 Has anyone ever adjusted the valves on the 3.0 V6?  The owners manual
 says it should be done.  I have 95K on the truck and have never adjusted
 them.  I have the factory manuals and it looks like you have to
 add/remove shims.  How big of a PITA is this?  Should I even worry about
 it?
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 16:45:42 -0600
 From: breeze@cysource.com (Jeffrey Delzer)
 Subject: vented disk swap: better stops?
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Barney McNamara wrote:>> I did the vented rotor swap when my rotors were too thin to machine flat> anymore. I also had diff oil leaking onto my brake pads, so they needed> replacing. I saw an improvement in stopping power, but don't think it> had much to do with the thicker disks. I did the swap because I needed> new rotors, and wanted more reliable brakes with less fading due to> overeating.
 These days people are quick to blame everything on overeating, but brake
 upgrades?? That's stretching things a bit.
 Jeff Delzer
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 21 Jan 98 17:10:14 -0600
 From: bwiencek@kcnet.com
 Subject: vented disk swap: better stops?
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 On Wed, 21 Jan 1998, breeze@cysource.com (Jeffrey Delzer) wrote:>Barney McNamara wrote:>>>> new rotors, and wanted more reliable brakes with less fading due to>> overeating.
 ^^^^------>>These days people are quick to blame everything on overeating, but brake>upgrades?? That's stretching things a bit.
 Well, given that overeating causes a rise in weight, and we all know the
 heavier a vehicle is (with the occupants) the more energy that needs to be
 converted to heat during stopping, and thus the higher chance for brake
 fade...  It's really not that big of a stretch ;-)  Now if your diet
 consisted of liquid nails....
 - - Brian
 (couldn't help myself!)
 ------------------------------
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