Toy4x4 Digest          Fri, 16 Jan 98 12:30:02 (HST)  Volume 1 : Issue 659
 Today's Topics:
 **HELP22r, Dies when its cold**
 22R tuneup (air gap adj) (2 msgs)
 4-wheel parts wholesalers (2 msgs)
 [Fwd: Fw: carburetor question]
 Amazing Brake Story!!
 Bad Gas Mileage (5 msgs)
 Gorman on Sunday
 HiLux's (2 msgs)
 HiLux's  QUESTION (3 msgs)
 Hilux pic (was TJM Bumper) (2 msgs)
 Idle problem?
 Ignition kill switch (3 msgs)
 Lift and Springs
 Optima, dual batts; isolator question (4 msgs)
 pictures of dual batt installes in a 22r 4runner...
 Power Steering box seal
 ProZap Bumpers
 R&P setup
 Supplier who will ship to Europe? (2 msgs)
 V6 Mods (2 msgs)
 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
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 ----------------------------------------------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 08:19:44 -0800
 From: Barney McNamara  Subject: **HELP22r, Dies when its cold**
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org,  Chris wrote:>My 86' 22r won't run when its cold out side, Me and my dad tracked it>down to the choke or vacuum problem.>We can tell>the carb has never been rebuilt cuz it has those rivit thingys in it>instead of screws. And it looks like you can't adjust the choke becuz we>don't know how to take it off or open it cuz theres no screws????
 When my carb was giving me problems, I rebuilt it. To adjust the choke,
 drill out the rivets and replace with little bolts, then you can rotate
 the choke to get it to stay on longer.
 I also have learned to keep my foot on the gas pedal when it is cold,
 adjusted the idle up a little, and warm it up for a few minutes on cold
 mornings. Luckily for me, it never gets real cold here on the California
 coast. (Also why I'm here.)
 ______________________________________________________________
 Barney McNamara              JENNY - 83 Toyota Short Bed
 ( barney@flowpoint.com )     stock 22R motor ; 3" body lift
 Santa Cruz, Ca.              8" alloy rims; 31" BFG A/Ts
 homepage: http://www.scruz.net/~barneym/barnhome.htm
 ______________________________________________________________
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 11:22:41 -0800 (PST)
 From: rick99@jps.net (Rick Murray)
 Subject: 22R tuneup (air gap adj)
 To: TOY4X4@TLCA.ORG
 To squeeze more hp from my anemic 22R, I am tinkering with the ignition
 timing. Its supposed to be 5 degrees BTC, but between smog checks
 (just had one) I want to experiment with timings that get more hp on the highway.
 The factory manual says to first check the signal rotor air gap.  Should be
 between .008" and .016".   Mine appears to be around .024" !!  What is
 the impact of being so far off ?    Also, how do you remove that little
 'dust cover' ?  Doesn't seem to be any screws holding it on, and
 mild-to-medium prying doesn't get it off.  I'm afraid of breaking it
 if I pry too hard.  I think I need to remove it to adjust the air gap.
 TIA.
 - -
 ##################################################################
 Rick Murray                                22R motor ; 3-inch lift
 84 Toyota 4Runner SR5                    33" BFG M/Ts ; 4.88 gears
 Rancho Cordova, Ca.                   Rancho 9000's ; on-board air
 http://www.jps.net/rick99/             Marlin TCase #67 ; TRD LSD
 ##################################################################
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 14:46:25 -0600
 From: "Steve C."  Subject: 22R tuneup (air gap adj)
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Rick Murray wrote:>> The factory manual says to first check the signal rotor air gap.  Should be> between .008" and .016".   Mine appears to be around .024" !!  What is> the impact of being so far off ?
 Rick if you have ever welded you know that the larger the gap the arc
 jumps the crappier the weld.  Air is not a good conductor and the larger
 the gap the greater the loss on the jump.  I am not an electrical
 engineer but in one way or the other you are losing through resistance.
 If you can get the gap to .008" then you will have a better spark.  I
 dont know if it will help but its an easy fix.
 - --
 Steve Capuano			1996 Tacoma ext cab V6 4X4
 capuano@hypercon.com		31x10.50x15 Wrangler RT/S
 Houston, Texas			Rear LockRight  K&N filter
 Edelbrock headers
 NRA lifetime member		Dynomax 2.5" cat back
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 13:09:39 -0800 (PST)
 From: Jonathan Albrecht  Subject: 4-wheel parts wholesalers
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org> back,and waiting on the phone for an hour i found out that the guy who> took my order had misspelled my name!On the box it said "Darren> Lowen"instead of Darren Floen.When i picked up my stuff i found that> there was no invoice to give customs,so i had to improvise.When i got> my Visa bill i found that they had overcharged me by about $100.00 US.>> Definatly not my favorite place to do business,but they are in the> process of making everything right.
 I've always had pretty good luck with them, though my last order was
 kinda a pain.  Since I'm the only one (it seems like) who has a credit
 card, I was ordering some stuff for one of my friends.. some gears,
 install kit, a steering damper ect.  Anyway, when I ordered the stuff,
 some of it was more expensive than I was expecting, so I asked if there
 would still be time to make changes to the order at a later time.  The
 guy said 'yes', as long as I did it before middle of the next day.
 Okay.
 I talked to my friend, and he decided he didn't want a few things, and
 wanted it shipped UPS instead of priority.  Anyway, I called the next
 morning to try and change my order.  I tell them my name, and what we
 ordered.  He puts me on hold.  15 minutes later he's back.. 'uh sir, we
 don't have any record of you ever placing an order.. but our system is
 kinda hard to track.  See, yesterday the guy taking the order wrote it
 down on a slip of paper.  Then that slip of paper get's transerfed
 through three different buildings and five different departments.  It's
 extremely hard to track these things....' ect.  He goes onto recommend
 that I call my credit card company to see if it's been billed yet.  So I
 call, nope, not billed yet.  Call 4wparts again (wait for 15 minutes on
 hold as usual..), finally a guy answers, I tell him my story, and ask
 what the deal is.  All I want to do is make a change to my order!  Well,
 he goes on about how they can't track it.. very easilly.  Asks me who
 took the order.. shoot how would I know that?  I tell him I don't know,
 and basically, this means the order is lost.  GREAT.  Then he connects
 me with another service department, and I leave a message (voice mail).
 And hang up tired of this mess.
 Believe it or not, 20 minutes later, I actually did get a call from
 them.  The guy said he was pretty sure they new what dept. the order
 slip was hiding in, and I told him the changes.  He said they'd find the
 order, and make the changes.  To his credit, they actually did make the
 changes, and it only took about 5 days until we got it (even though it
 was 2nd day).  Overall, the experience left me a little pissed.. but oh
 well.  Another thing that bugged me, was that one of the installation
 kits had already been opened, dug through, dirtied up, and just sorta
 dumped back together.  IE no shrink wrap, no bags, just a pile of greasy
 parts in a box.
 They also put the gears on backorder, but didn't say a thing about that
 when I ordered them.  God I hate backorders.  My friend was really
 looking forward to getting those gears, and even had an appointment at
 the ford place to get them done, but no gears.  But they did charge me
 for them.  What I really hate about that though, is that when they ship
 the gears later, they'll bill me AGAIN for shipping.  So instead of
 paying say 100 dollars shipping for the whole mess we'll get to spend
 say, 80 bucks each time.
 And to add further insult to this, I decided to call them up and ask
 when we could expect to get the gears.  As usual, I get transfered
 through a few systems, and finally to a voice mail.  I leave a short
 message, then call back again.  This time I get a sales drone, and he
 tells me that they were shipped on the 9th (it was the 9th when I
 called).  I asked him to double check.  10 minutes later.. 'actually we
 expect to recieve them on the 19th, then we'll ship them out to you.'  I
 hate crap like this!!  Later that day the person I left voice mail
 called back, assuring me that they would be shipped out on the 15th.
 Sure.
 And don't even get me started on Dick Cepek!!  (It took my friend 15-20
 some phone calls, plus 4-1/2 months to get his flares, shipped 2nd day
 blue label).
 _______
 Jonathan Albrecht                      __.           /_/__|__\__
 albr9619@uidaho.edu                 __/__|\___       |_.--.__,--;
 http://www.uidaho.edu/~albr9619    :--.__|.--.|,---- ~'(__)'`(__)
 `'`'`''`'`'`''``'`'`'`'`''`'`'``'`
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 16 Jan 98 16:03:39 -0600
 From: bwiencek@kcnet.com
 Subject: 4-wheel parts wholesalers
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org>don't have any record of you ever placing an order.. but our system is>kinda hard to track.  See, yesterday the guy taking the order wrote it>down on a slip of paper.  Then that slip of paper get's transerfed>through three different buildings and five different departments.  It's>extremely hard to track these things....' ect.
 I hate the system there. it does an OK job for them but as you said there
 really isn't a linked order entry/accounting/shipping/inventory system in
 place there.  One positive thing I have heard (from their customer service
 department) is that they are in the process of moving to ONE building which
 should help the processing of orders substaintially !
 - - Brian
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 16 Jan 98 16:03:34 -0600
 From: bwiencek@kcnet.com
 Subject: [Fwd: Fw: carburetor question]
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 On Thu, 15 Jan 1998, Scott Wilson  wrote:>Can anyone help these guys out?  I can say that I know much about>carburated 4 cyls.  :-)>>Thanks,>Scott>>>> Good evening.   I have a 1981 Toyota, 22r motor, 30 over,>>> w/TRD>>>> torker cam, header, w/ a 32/36 weber carburetor.  With that>> combination,>>>> what should I run my primary and secondary jets at?>>>> If you can please get back with me soon, I would really appreciate it!>>>> have been getting the run-around from many people, and would just like>>> answer or a    really good suggestion!!  We sent this e-mail to Eric
 jet it to get as close to stoich at cruise, and not go lean during power -
 how's that for an answer ....
 Actually, considering you have an aftermarket carb, different cam & header,
 Nobody could tell you the exact jet sizes you need to run (unless they're a
 real weber god ;-)  The only way to tune this thing is to get the jet kit,
 and start by reading the plugs - if it's lean, richen it up (bigger jets), if
 it's rich, lean it out (smaller Jets).  To really get a good read, hook up an
 O2 sensor in the exhaust and take the readings with a good DMM.
 - - Brian
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 14:37:53 EST
 From: DG RM125  Subject: Amazing Brake Story!!
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 I own a 1987 Toy 4X4 P-U (x-cab, 22re.) w/ 118,000 miles on it. I have
 never done the rear shoes, but did have them checked. I recently went to lube
 the bell-crank for the first time(it engages parking brake.) When I got under
 the truck I was disapointed to see that the right side was swolen in place due
 to my neglect to lube it before (?)  The left side was fine though. I decided
 that since the right side was frozen in the engaged  position, I should check
 to see if the shoes were worn. I removed the drum effortlessly. I looked at
 the brake components and was AMAZED to see that everything was new (drum was
 perfect, shoes still had the coating on the asbestos, and the only dust in the
 drum was dirt.) I did not know what to think, so I checked the other side and
 it was the same way. I don't know how I have put 118,000 miles on the truck
 without realizing I had no back brakes.
 Anybody here of this? Could it be caused by the E-brake being seized from
 the factory and never working enough to adjust the brakes (because the left
 cable just stretched because the right side was frozen?) I do not know what to
 do, should I call Toyota or does anyone have experience with this?
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 14:00:39 -0500
 From: "Spangler, Michael G."  Subject: Bad Gas Mileage
 To: "'Toy4x4@tlca.org'"  I have a couple questions concerning bad gas mileage.  I recently bought
 a used 94 Toyota Pickup X-cab SR5 V6 automatic with 47,000 miles on it.
 When I bought the truck it came with "little tires". I am not sure what
 the size was but the came standard with that year/model. Now here is my
 question. During the first 2 weeks of ownership I bought new tires and
 rims. The tires I bought were Dick Cepek Radial AT's  31X10.5. The rims
 are Mangels but I'm not sure of the size. I understand that the gear
 ratio for the truck is for the smaller tires which originally came with
 it. During the same time frame I got bad gas from a local service
 station (Water in the tank). I took the vehicle back to the Toyota
 Dealership and they dropped and drained the fuel tank and also changed
 the fuel injectors in it. Now here's the problem, I now only get 9 MPG
 city/highway.
 I understand that the gear ratio is geared for the "smaller tires" but I
 can't believe that this can be causing all the problems. I bought the
 truck in May and the fuel economy has been on the decrease ever since.
 The dealership said they tuned the truck up before they sold it to me.
 Could the problem be with the fuel injectors? I think I should be
 getting better mileage that 9MPG. Any suggestions?  Thanks in advance
 for all your help.
 Mike
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 09:12:09 -1000 (HST)
 From: Eric Johnson  Subject: Bad Gas Mileage
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 On Fri, 16 Jan 1998, Spangler, Michael G. wrote:> I have a couple questions concerning bad gas mileage.  I recently bought> a used 94 Toyota Pickup X-cab SR5 V6 automatic with 47,000 miles on it.> When I bought the truck it came with "little tires". I am not sure what> the size was but the came standard with that year/model. Now here is my> question. During the first 2 weeks of ownership I bought new tires and> rims. The tires I bought were Dick Cepek Radial AT's  31X10.5. The rims> are Mangels but I'm not sure of the size. I understand that the gear> ratio for the truck is for the smaller tires which originally came with> it. During the same time frame I got bad gas from a local service> station (Water in the tank). I took the vehicle back to the Toyota> Dealership and they dropped and drained the fuel tank and also changed> the fuel injectors in it. Now here's the problem, I now only get 9 MPG> city/highway.> I understand that the gear ratio is geared for the "smaller tires" but I> can't believe that this can be causing all the problems. I bought the> truck in May and the fuel economy has been on the decrease ever since.> The dealership said they tuned the truck up before they sold it to me.> Could the problem be with the fuel injectors? I think I should be> getting better mileage that 9MPG. Any suggestions?  Thanks in advance> for all your help.
 There's two problems:
 1) You ARE getting worse mileage
 2) But its not as bad as you think.
 You're getting worse actual mileage because the new tires are heavier with
 more rolling resistance and more wind resistance. Thats why econo-boxes
 use tiny little skinny tires. It simply takes more gas
 to turn the bigger meats, plus the engine isn't realy operating in the
 ideal RPMs because of the effective gearing change.
 Its not as bad as you think though, since I bet you're computing the
 mileage based on your odomoeter reading. But with taller tires, your
 odometer and speedometer are reading slow (i.e. when it says you've gone
 100 miles, you've probably gone more like 110), so you need to figure that
 into your calculations.
 Plus the V6 is a gas hog to begin with.
 You can mitigate the second problem and some of the first by regearing.
 We need to put this in a faq somewhere :)
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 13:44:07 -0600
 From: "Michael Rowe"  Subject: Bad Gas Mileage
 To: >>Plus the V6 is a gas hog to begin with.> I get 18 to 20 mpg on the highway regularly in my '88 4Runner V6 with auto
 tranny, 31x10.50 tires and 176K miles driving 65 go 70mph.
 Michael Rowe
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 15:02:39 -0500 (EST)
 From: "Dr. Karl Bellve"  Subject: Bad Gas Mileage
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 On Fri, 16 Jan 1998, Michael Rowe wrote:>>>>Plus the V6 is a gas hog to begin with.>>>>> I get 18 to 20 mpg on the highway regularly in my '88 4Runner V6 with auto> tranny, 31x10.50 tires and 176K miles driving 65 go 70mph.> I assume with a strong tail wind and going down hill, with the engine off
 :-)
 Seriously, that is decent. I get 22mpg out of my 4Runner with 22RE/manual
 and I drive 70-75mph with the same size tires as you.
 Cheers,
 Karl Bellve, Ph.D.
 Biomedical Imaging Group
 University of Massachusetts
 WWW  : http://molmed.ummed.edu/~kdb/
 Email: kdb@molmed.ummed.edu
 Phone: (508) 856-3785
 Fax  : (508) 856-1840
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 15:15:27 -0500 (EST)
 From: Eric Cartman  Subject: Bad Gas Mileage
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org> Could the problem be with the fuel injectors? I think I should be> getting better mileage that 9MPG. Any suggestions?  Thanks in advance
 You should be getting MUCH better than 9MPG.  I have a '91 P/U V6 Auto
 with 33x12.50's & stock gearing... I get about 12-16mpg, city - that
 calculation is with the exact numbers from my odometer ... didn't even
 compensate for the 33's -- so I'm actually getting a few mpg than I think.
 Something's messed up -- but I'm sure somebody on the list can tell ya.
 If it were me - I'd go back to Toyota and tell 'em your problems.
 - --
 Doug
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 08:39:43 -0800
 From: Chris Geiger  Subject: Gorman on Sunday
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Jason Redman wrote:> Chris Geiger wrote:>>> I was thinking sunday if snow falls saturday. Gorman is at the>> top of the grapevine>> If it's on for Sunday, then count me in.
 Mike has a group going Saturday so I am going I will be going then. We
 are meeting at the Carls Jr in Gorman at 9:30 AM , CH#17
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 12:47:57 -0000
 From: runars@isbank.is
 Subject: HiLux's
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org> -----Original Message-----> From:	Eric Johnson [SMTP:ej@off-road.com]> Sent:	Thursday, January 15, 1998 9:33 PM> To:	Toy4x4@tlca.org> Subject:	RE: HiLux's>> On Thu, 15 Jan 1998 runars@isbank.is wrote:>>> No, Hilux is not a pre-tacome pickup.  It is in America, where> trucks>> are for sport use only....hehehe..>>>> Hilux is still in production, and for '98 there is a brand new model>> (actually close to 30 of them..).  The Toyota Austailia site has> info on>> them.  The new hilux looks kind of like a mix up of the Tacoma and> the>> current Hilux.>> What I basically meant to say is that the Hilux is just another name> for> the japanese-made toyota pickup; in the states you can't get 'em> anymore> because they went to the US-made Tacoma, but prior to 1995 a new> toyota> pickup in the US was the same vehicle sold as the Hilux elsewhere.> Now,> outside the US, there were more options available, like the> double-cab.> [-->>  ]  Yeah I know what you meant, but the Tacoma, and the Hilux,
 have nothing in common except the Toyota logo.  The Tacoma and the Land
 Cruiser 90 (Prado) have more in common than the Tacoma and the Hliux.
 So as I said in the other message, was that there are actually 4
 diffrent Toyota pickups types (regardless of the names).
 As I understood from the Austrailian Toyota web, the '98 Hilux is
 basicly the same Hilux that has been made since the late '70s, just with
 its fourth body style, and other refinements.> Something like 70% of all 'japanese' vehicles sold in the US are> actually> built in the US, because of taxes, tariffs, etc.> [-->>  ]  Yeap, and that is probably the real reson you don't get any
 double cabs.....> And the guy who originally asked the question was in Canada, so that> further clouds the subject :)>> Of course, they still make flatfender Jeeps in India. I'd love to have> a> '97 CJ-3. :)
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 12:53:35 -0000
 From: runars@isbank.is
 Subject: HiLux's
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org> The live axle Hiluxes are still around but in Deluxe trim only. The> SR5s> are IFS. DON'T PANIC...> [-->>  ]  Yeap but on there last year......  Or that is what the Oz web
 states....  doooww.> The carb'ed 22R has been dumped in favor of the 3RZ-FE 2.7 liter> inline> four from the Tacoma.>> The current Hilux trucks, in Aussie trim, are the same basic> body-style> as our pre-Tacoma ('89-'95) trucks.>> A friend of my runs a Toyota-Approved shop in Brisbane, QLD. AUS and> sees these things on a regular basis. I hate him :-)>>>> The Tacoma is made in the states ain't it?>> Yes, Fremont, CA NUMMI plant.>>> --> Jim Brink--Toyota/ASE Certified Technician             '86 Std. Bed> 22R> Manhattan Beach, CA				   32x11.50/15 BFG M/Ts> ToyTech@off-road.com> http://geiger.mcl.ucsb.edu/jim/jim.html> **********************************************************************> **> TLCA# 6184/ Friends of the Mojave Road (FOMR)
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 13:53:00 -0330 (NST)
 From: Ryan Richard Dias  Subject: HiLux's  QUESTION
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org
 Thanz for all the replys, and again i post the question, does anyone know
 how much it might cost to ship one to Canada, from Aust.  otherwise
 thank you for your time , i appreatiate it.
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 17:30:57 -0000
 From: runars@isbank.is
 Subject: HiLux's  QUESTION
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 A bunch, and besides, the Oz peoble have the steering on the wrong side
 (the right one that is..)
 Runar.> -----Original Message-----> From:	Ryan Richard Dias [SMTP:p64rrd@morgan.ucs.mun.ca]> Sent:	Friday, January 16, 1998 5:23 PM> To:	Toy4x4@tlca.org> Subject:	HiLux's  QUESTION>> Thanz for all the replys, and again i post the question, does anyone> know> how much it might cost to ship one to Canada, from Aust.  otherwise> thank you for your time , i appreatiate it.
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 07:59:47 -1000 (HST)
 From: Eric Johnson  Subject: HiLux's  QUESTION
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 If canadian import laws are anything like the US, shipping is the very
 least of your concerns. Getting it smogged, licensed, crash tested, etc is
 where the hassle is.
 ej@off-road.com   http://www.off-road.com/~ej
 On Fri, 16 Jan 1998, Ryan Richard Dias wrote:> Thanz for all the replys, and again i post the question, does anyone know> how much it might cost to ship one to Canada, from Aust.  otherwise> thank you for your time , i appreatiate it.> ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 11:57:21 -0800
 From: Scott Muir  Subject: Hilux pic (was TJM Bumper)
 To: "Toy4x4@tlca.org"  Chris G.:
 I took a peek at your URL and I see your truck, but no pics of the TJM.
 Anyways, here's a nice shot of a dual cab with a tjm you can add to your
 'other trucks' section.
 A buddy of mine is tooling around O.Z. sent me back some nice photos
 like this one.
 http://www.islandnet.com/~wsmuir/hilux.jpg
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 14:06:00 -0800
 From: Chris Geiger  Subject: Hilux pic (was TJM Bumper)
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Yet another nice shot of a Double cab truck. Thanks. I will add it to
 the collection, there are now 12 Double cab turck pictures on the page!
 Click on the small Double cab truck near the bottom of the page to see
 them all:
 Chris Geiger 93 4Runner http://geiger.mcl.ucsb.edu/offroad.html
 Scott Muir wrote:> Anyways, here's a nice shot of a dual cab with a tjm you can add to> your> 'other trucks' section.> \http://www.islandnet.com/~wsmuir/hilux.jpg
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 14:40:56 -0500
 From: Mojo  Subject: Idle problem?
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org> Having a little problem with my idle in my 83. Seems to be when I stop after
 driving the motor wants to idle way high like 1800, I give the gas a tap and it
 comes down very low to the point of stalling then comes up a bit and sits around
 900/1000.I was thinking linkage following that course I checked from the pedal on
 back and could find nothing binding adding a healthy dose of WD to all the moving
 surfaces, still no good.
 I'm beginning to suspect the Distributor, could that cause a wandering idle? I
 cleaned it out the other day seemed fine but having never had any problems with one
 I have no idea what to look for. Forgot to say that when I get the motor to idle at
 a decent rpm 900 or so it's a bit bumpy and sounds like it might be slightly
 missing,  the Tach kind of wanders up and down about 50 to 100 rpm?  I am running a
 Weber with a Downey cam and Jacobs onmi pak and expect the cam to cause some bumps
 but it seems a bit to much to me.
 I'm going to stop by and get some new SP wires, cap and rotor  today it's that
 time, and see if that clears up the missing but I have a feeling I'm still going to
 have the idle problem any ideas?
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 05:23:37 -0700
 From: Brian Rishaw  Subject: Ignition kill switch
 To: Toyota 4x4 Digest-posting  Pete Hurd,
 The wire you want to interrupt is the negative wire going to the coil.
 Cut it and run two wires into your cab somewhere hidden (under the seat,
 glove box, under the dash, etc.) and attach these two wires to a simple
 on/off toggle switch. Be sure to solder all the connections - if one
 comes loose while you're driving, the engine will die! If your truck has
 EFI, I believe its the black wire with a white stripe going from the
 amplifier module to the negative terminal on the coil.
 Good Luck -- Brian Rishaw
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 10:11:37 -0500
 From: Agustinus Gunawan  Subject: Ignition kill switch
 To: "'Toy4x4@tlca.org'"  Jacobs electronic have a kill switch module that works. I know not many
 people likes the ignition system but this anti theft system works. It will
 let the engine to be started normally and if the switch is not touched
 within 30 second the engine will dies like it was running out of gas. The
 engine could be restarted after half an hour or you have to reset the
 memory by disconnecting the power lead to the box. Not convenient if you
 forgot to trigger the switch but it works to stop the thief.
 - -----Original Message-----
 From:	Pete Hurd [SMTP:pete@zool.su.se]
 My last car fell victim to bump-n-jump outside of my place one night,
 I heard a familiar engine start up and got to watch it disappear into the
 night.  Now I've got a Toy4x4 PU, and would like to not have this happen
 again.  Years ago I drove delivery, and all our vans had hidden switches
 somewhere in the ignition system.  It worked, every six months or so people
 would try to drive off in them, but didn't get anywhere.
 I'm tempted to put a switch into my Toyota, I'd sleep better.  What I
 don't know is much about the ideal place to break the circuit with a
 switch.  The delivery vans had them under the hood, which was
 inconvienient enough that it makes me think there had to be a good reason
 not to put it in the wires exiting the steering column (high current?)
 So my obvious questions, is there a standard name for this operation,
 where is the wisest place to put this switch in, and how does a motor
 ignoramus (with a chilton's guide - not terribly enlightening on these
 maters) find it?
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 12:34:37 -8 GMT
 From: "Leo G. Divinagracia III"  Subject: Ignition kill switch
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org> From: Pete Hurd > [snipped...]> So my obvious questions, is there a standard name for this operation,> where is the wisest place to put this switch in, and how does a motor> ignoramus (with a chilton's guide - not terribly enlightening on these> maters) find it?> wire it so it's right before the starter solenoid.  then use a momentary
 switch.  i've seen people use like the cig lighter as the switch.  i've seen
 hidden pressure switches under the floor mat also.  then there's the one that
 used his highbeam switch as the 'hidden' switch.  don't forget to use the
 appropriate size wire or else you may overheat the wire...
 - -----------------------
 Leo G. Divinagracia III
 ldivinag@csuhayward.edu
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 12:24:53 -0500
 From: "Eli Madden"  Subject: Lift and Springs
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org
 Darrell wrote-
 ************************
 The guy said that kit
 comes with 3.5" front and 2" rear.  He tried to convince me that the front
 needs more lift to keep it level.  I had to ask him if he had ever seen a
 toyota before.  Every stock truck I have ever seen needs at least an 1.5"
 lift in the rear to level it out. I got frustrated and hung up.
 **********************************
 My '83 Shortbed 4x4 sat level with 3" front Skyjacker Softride springs and stock rear springs.....it's starting to sag now that I can drive it a lot harder than I used to - new (well, 6 months old is new compared to a truck that will be 15 in August!) Softride Hydro shocks all around plus the new front springs - it'll get air without bottoming out!
 Gee, I wonder why I have a crack in my frame.......
 Eli
 emadden@inacom-vt.com
 '83 Shortbed SR5 4x4
 ------------------------------
 Date: 16 Jan 98 09:58:59 PST
 From: Norman.Goetz@directory.reed.edu (Norman Goetz)
 Subject: Optima, dual batts; isolator question
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 - --- You wrote:
 BTW, Optima has a blue-top battery as well; the marine version.  Don't
 know it's specs, but I believe it's a deep-cycle.
 - --- end of quote ---
 I was told that the blue top is identical to the yellow top except for the
 color and the terminals.  I think the blue doesen't have the side terminals, or
 doesn't have the top terminals - I forget which.
 Norman
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 12:40:36 -0600
 From: "Steve C."  Subject: Optima, dual batts; isolator question
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org> I was told that the blue top is identical to the yellow top except for the> color and the terminals.  I think the blue doesen't have the side terminals, or> doesn't have the top terminals - I forget which.>> Norman
 The blue may have wing nuts since it is Marine
 - --
 Steve Capuano			1996 Tacoma ext cab V6 4X4
 capuano@hypercon.com		31x10.50x15 Wrangler RT/S
 Houston, Texas			Rear LockRight  K&N filter
 Edelbrock headers
 NRA lifetime member		Dynomax 2.5" cat back
 ------------------------------
 Date: 16 Jan 98 10:44:08 PST
 From: Norman.Goetz@directory.reed.edu (Norman Goetz)
 Subject: Optima, dual batts; isolator question
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 - --- You wrote:
 The blue may have wing nuts since it is Marine
 - --- end of quote ---
 Yes, that's it.  The wing nuts are on the side terminals.
 Norman
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 12:39:04 -8 GMT
 From: "Leo G. Divinagracia III"  Subject: Optima, dual batts; isolator question
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org> From: Greg Sue > [snipped]> Does anyone have any recommendations on battery isolators? (ie. brands,> ratings, or can I build one myself out of a couple of big diodes and> some aluminum extrusion?)  I want to run the starter from one battery,> and everything else from the other battery.> get a high amperage solenoid, one with continuous duty/cycle.  less heat
 build up, loss through diodes and will probably a little smaller in size...
 wrangler products in arizona sells them.  major car audio manufacturers also
 sells 100+ amp isolators also.  orion (another car audio maker) sells what i
 thought was an active isolator.  MBR-1000 i think is it's model #...
 - -----------------------
 Leo G. Divinagracia III
 ldivinag@csuhayward.edu
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 12:55:17 -8 GMT
 From: "Leo G. Divinagracia III"  Subject: pictures of dual batt installes in a 22r 4runner...
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 here are a couple shots of a highly custom optima batt installs in a 88
 4runner with a 22r in it.  no html file, just to pixs:
 http://www.sbeusers.csuhayward.edu/~ldivinag/wces98/4runner
 note between the batts is a custom fuse holder.
 - -----------------------
 Leo G. Divinagracia III
 ldivinag@csuhayward.edu
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 12:46:33 -0500
 From: "Eli Madden"  Subject: Power Steering box seal
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org
 A while ago I was driving along and all of a sudden the cab filled with oily smoke...YIKES! Pulled over, shut it off, grabbed the fire extinguisher, popped the hood. Oil was sprayed all over the driver side of the engine bay. After my pulse came back down I finally realized it wasn't engine oil (there was a LOT and the engine oil level was full, and the pressure was fine). Finally, I saw that the seal on the power steering box where the shaft from the steering wheel goes into it had blown.
 My question is - can I replace this seal? I havn't pulled the box out yet, but it looks like there are bolts that allow the box to be opened up in this area. I have an '83 SR5 Shortbed 4x4, manufactured in August '83. The engine is an '87 22R, but as far as I know the steering box is original. While I have it out is there a rebuild kit for these boxes? Then I won't have the other seals blow.......
 Thanks in advance!
 Eli
 emadden@inacom-vt.com
 '83 SR5 Shortbed 4x4
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 15:43:29 -0600
 From: "Gallus, Brian"  Subject: ProZap Bumpers
 To: "'toy4x4@tlca.org'"  Anyone know of a distributor or dealer for ProZap bumpers in the
 Midwest?  How about a phone number?
 Thanks!
 bkg
 - ------------------------------------------------------------------------
 - --
 Brian Gallus				87 4Runner SR5
 BrianGallus@DynaMark.com		33's, 4.88's, TrueTrac
 Vadnais Heights, MN			3" Rancho, 2" body
 Minnesota Toyx4's #95 /  MN4WDA  / TLCA #5581
 http://www.off-road.com/~MNTOYX4
 - ------------------------------------------------------------------------
 - --
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 09:35:34 -0500
 From: Rick  Subject: R&P setup
 To: "'Toy4x4@tlca.org'"  I am looking for a good shop in NC for R&P setup.  I am hesitant to tackle
 this myself, as I want to run an ARB rear and have heard horror stories
 about ARB customer service after owner-installed diffs fail.  WCD quotes
 about $1500 for V6 ARB rear, seems awfully steep, and I still have to swap
 chunks (3rd members).  Does anyone know a shop that has a good rep in NC?
 I am in Fayetteville.  No hurry, I am still awaiting my 4:56 TRD IFS
 front...
 Rick ( rjhrfam@worldnet.att.net )
 - 83 FJ60 (for sale)
 - 88 4Runner SR5 V6 5spd (mine)
 - - 94 4Runner SR5 V6 auto (hers)
 Member- Carolina Cruisers, CNC 4x4, Toyota Land Cruiser Association
 TLCA #5042
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 18:31:14 +0100
 From: "Andy Inman"  Subject: Supplier who will ship to Europe?
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Can anyone help me with finding a supplier who will ship to Europe?
 Spcifically I'm after front shock absorbers right now, but it's very
 difficult to get any parts at all here (Menorca, Spain).  Toyota have
 very little presence here and 4Runners just don't exist (apart from
 mine!)  I thought I would be ok due to the similarity to the pickup
 truck, but thats proving not the case.
 If anyone knows of a good supply, preferably one with email and
 better still a web site, please let me know.  Thanks!
 - -AndyI-
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 08:02:18 -1000 (HST)
 From: Eric Johnson  Subject: Supplier who will ship to Europe?
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 On Fri, 16 Jan 1998, Andy Inman wrote:> Can anyone help me with finding a supplier who will ship to Europe?> Spcifically I'm after front shock absorbers right now, but it's very> difficult to get any parts at all here (Menorca, Spain).  Toyota have> very little presence here and 4Runners just don't exist (apart from> mine!)  I thought I would be ok due to the similarity to the pickup> truck, but thats proving not the case.>> If anyone knows of a good supply, preferably one with email and> better still a web site, please let me know.  Thanks!
 Downey claims to ship international all the time. I bet 4wpw will too.
 Their web site is at http://www.4wheelparts.com
 Downey doesn't have a web site, but their address and those of others are
 on the toyota 4x4 pages at off-road.com, follow the 'parts suppliers'
 link. Some of the toyota dealers there might be able to ship you genuine
 OEM toyota parts too.
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 05:52:30 -0700
 From: Brian Rishaw  Subject: V6 Mods
 To: Toyota 4x4 Digest-posting  John M. Smith,
 Here's the mods I've done to my 3.0L V6 1990 4Runner 5spd:
 - K&N Filtercharger (eliminates restrictive factory 			  air box)
 - 4mm over bored throttle body
 - Downey headers (eliminates restrictive factory 		  crossover pipe
 and manifolds)
 - 2-1/4" exhaust
 - J.E.T. computer chip
 - MSD 8.5mm wires
 - MSD-6 Off Road ignition module
 - Flex-A-Lite Black Magic electric cooling fan (replaces
 factory belt driven fan)
 Results: The truck's throttle response is "jumpy" compared to stock,
 much more low end power, and can still get 18-20 mpg at legal highway
 speeds with 33" Bridgestone Mud Duelers and 4.88's!
 - - Brian Rishaw
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 07:41:50 -0800
 From: Scott Wilson  Subject: V6 Mods
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Brian Rishaw wrote:>         Here's the mods I've done to my 3.0L V6 1990 4Runner 5spd:>                 - 4mm over bored throttle body
 Brian, what kind of difference did this make?  This is one of the few
 mods we rarely see done by people on this list, so we've never heard
 much about it.
 Thanks,
 Scott
 - --
 _____
 /_/_|_\__      Scott Wilson
 | _     _ :     Santa Clara, CA
 */_\---/_\'     http://www.off-road.com/~swilson
 (_)   (_)
 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
 ------------------------------
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