Toy4x4 Digest Fri, 16 Jan 98 00:30:01 (HST) Volume 1 : Issue 658
Today's Topics:
**HELP22r, Dies when its cold**
3rd members
4-wheel parts wholesalers (5 msgs)
[Fwd: Fw: carburetor question]
Coil over shocks (3 msgs)
Gorman on Sunday
Hilux
HiLux's
HiLux?
hub lock and knock ??s (2 msgs)
Ignition kill switch
Moab 98'
Mud Tires
NWOR springs (2 msgs)
Optima, dual batts; isolator question
Pickup vs. 4Runner
Reider Racing (2 msgs)
solenoid
Stereo Post (3 msgs)
stereo stobe lights
TIRES (2 msgs)
TJM Bumper
Unsubscribe
V6 Headgasket Recall (2 msgs)
V6 mods (3 msgs)
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 22:26:14 -0800
From: Chris Subject: **HELP22r, Dies when its cold**
To: "Toy4x4@tlca.org" My 86' 22r won't run when its cold out side, Me and my dad tracked it
down to the choke or vacuum problem. Heres what happens I start my truck
in the moring and its fine idles high and when it comes off high idle it
idles to low and slowly dies, but if you hold down the gas it runs, and
you can't let off the gas untill the engine warms up then its perfectly
fine. It only does it when its cold out side and the engine is cold. It
has a automatic choke and it has two things in the air filter a temp and
a vacuum pump I think?
It is also blowin oil into the air Filter through the blow past hole. We
cleaned it moved the flaps and they worked but we think the choke is
turning off to soon like its trying to run in hot weather. We can tell
the carb has never been rebuilt cuz it has those rivit thingys in it
instead of screws. And it looks like you can't adjust the choke becuz we
don't know how to take it off or open it cuz theres no screws????
Any info would help alot becuz its a major pain in the but usein your
parking brake and reving your engine at a light so it won't die, Oh yeah
it will die while your down shifting and if your wondering why I am
driving while its dieing because it takes like 15mins for it to warm up
enought to work ok.
Thanks,
Chris Austin Jr.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 16:21:09 -0700
From: "Jay Kopycinski" Subject: 3rd members
To: Toyota 4x4 List Jason Wilson wrote:>On my '85 are the front and rear third members exactly the same? I know>they're interchangeable, 8" and all that, but a mechanic at a local 4x4>shop said that the front one has a different model number than the rear.>Is he just full of it, or is there actually a difference between the two?
You can swap 'em. They are the same.
Jay Kopycinski '85 Toylet (ROKTOY)
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 12:17:13 -1000 (HST)
From: Eric Johnson Subject: 4-wheel parts wholesalers
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
one more thing - you'll need 5 ring gear bolt retainers for each diff, and
I don't think 4wpw has them in their kit. Part number from toyota is
41222-35020. List is $3.55 apiece...at least at my local dealer.
ej@off-road.com http://www.off-road.com/~ej
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 16:17:22 -0600
From: John Schultz Subject: 4-wheel parts wholesalers
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Jason Wilson wrote:> Good news!!! I found a shop a couple of miles away that said they'll> install my gears for $65 per end if I bring him the third members. I think> I'll be ordering some 4:88's from somewhere real soon. Where's the best> place to get the gears from. Four-wheel parts wholesalers told me $150 for> each end. Not bad I guess. How's their service. I've never gotten> anything from there, and I know some of you have.> I just ordered 4:56 r&p's and a rear True-Trac from 4wpw for my 89' on
Monday. I felt that they were great to work with. I tracked my package on the
UPS web page and it should arrive tomorrow. They shipped it out within about 1
hour of me placing the order!! Congratulations on the labor prices, I am
paying 200 labor for the rear and 250 labor for the front (IFS). I am just
dropping the truck and parts off at the shop though. I am not removing them
myself (75 mile drive to the shop).
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 17:16:27 -0600
From: John Vargas Subject: 4-wheel parts wholesalers
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
On my rear gears the ring bolt retainers were not usable with the arb.
I've not gotten into the front diff yet so im not sure if they will fit.
John
At 12:17 PM 1/15/98 -1000, you wrote:>one more thing - you'll need 5 ring gear bolt retainers for each diff, and>I don't think 4wpw has them in their kit. Part number from toyota is>41222-35020. List is $3.55 apiece...at least at my local dealer.>>>ej@off-road.com http://www.off-road.com/~ej>> ------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 17:48:28 -0800
From: Brandon Miller Subject: 4-wheel parts wholesalers
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
I suppose that is a good idea but I have never replaced mine and have had them
apart four or five times now.
Eric Johnson wrote:> one more thing - you'll need 5 ring gear bolt retainers for each diff, and> I don't think 4wpw has them in their kit. Part number from toyota is> 41222-35020. List is $3.55 apiece...at least at my local dealer.>> ej@off-road.com http://www.off-road.com/~ej
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 22:27:01 -0500
From: Darren Floen Subject: 4-wheel parts wholesalers
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
If you take them off carefully,you should be able to reuse them,i
did.Mine were in good shape though.I got my True-trac and Detroit from
4WPW and had them delivered to a border store right at the Canada-Us
border(i'm in Ontario)and for Two weeks i called the border store every
day and every day i got the same response,"No Mr.Floen your parts are
not in,yet".I was pissed.I called UPS and they traced them as being
Delivered to the border store three days after i ordered them.I called
the border store,and nope,not there.After calling 4WPW back,and waiting
on the phone for an hour i found out that the guy who took my order had
misspelled my name!On the box it said "Darren Lowen"instead of Darren
Floen.When i picked up my stuff i found that there was no invoice to
give customs,so i had to improvise.When i got my Visa bill i found that
they had overcharged me by about $100.00 US.
Definatly not my favorite place to do business,but they are in the
process of making everything right.
Darren Lowen........ooopps Darren Floen
Eric Johnson wrote:>> one more thing - you'll need 5 ring gear bolt retainers for each diff, and> I don't think 4wpw has them in their kit. Part number from toyota is> 41222-35020. List is $3.55 apiece...at least at my local dealer.>> ej@off-road.com http://www.off-road.com/~ej
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 22:02:00 -0800
From: Scott Wilson Subject: [Fwd: Fw: carburetor question]
To: Toy4x4 List ]Can anyone help these guys out? I can say that I know much about
carburated 4 cyls. :-)
Thanks,
Scott
don fain wrote:>>> From: don fain >>> To: swilson@off-road.com>>> Subject: carburetor question>>> Date: Wednesday, January 14, 1998 6:27 PM>>>>>>>>>>>> To whom it may concern,>>>>> Good evening. I have a 1981 Toyota, 22r motor, 30 over,>> w/TRD>>> torker cam, header, w/ a 32/36 weber carburetor. With that> combination,>>> what should I run my primary and secondary jets at?>>>>>> If you can please get back with me soon, I would really appreciate it!> I>>> have been getting the run-around from many people, and would just like> an>> answer or a really good suggestion!! We sent this e-mail to Eric> Johnson & he didnt have an answer for us quite yet. We are just getting> some feelers out to see what we might be able to do!>>>>> Thank you for your time!!>>>>>> Mark & Trish>> - --
_____
/_/_|_\__ Scott Wilson
| _ _ : Santa Clara, CA
*/_\---/_\' http://www.off-road.com/~swilson
(_) (_)
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 17:18:39 -0600
From: Jack Alford Subject: Coil over shocks
To: >> Harsh rides come from spring rates that are too high, when was>> the last time you heard someone claim, my truck's ride is just too soft ?>>I hear it on a regular basis right here on this list. Too soft, too>mushy, bottoms out too easily, etc., etc.
You sure you're not confusing all the statements made about
different types of shocks ....
The 'bottoms out too easily' statements most likely come from guys with
IFS and they're refering to their front ends only, as IFS can bottom quite
easily
with the bars turned up a bit for cheap lift. I don't recall anyone with
leaf springs
saying they were too soft or mushy ....
The frame/body on my truck roll like a late 70's Buick land yacht ...
cloverleaf interstate
on-ramps are taken 5 mph below the suggested speed limit .... perhaps a
sway bar and/or
front and rear panhard rods would help me out but my springs still aren't
too soft and I consider my suspension quite soft ...
- jack
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 15:27:38 -0800
From: Scott Wilson Subject: Coil over shocks
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Jack Alford wrote:> The 'bottoms out too easily' statements most likely come from guys with> IFS and they're refering to their front ends only, as IFS can bottom quite> easily> with the bars turned up a bit for cheap lift.
Actually, this would be the guys with sagging bars that are letting the
truck ride lower than it should. The guys with the bars turned up A LOT
sometimes will hit the lower bumpstops (for extension)...but that isn't
bottoming out.
I've got mine turned up an inch or so, and I don't ever hit the bump
stops during on-road driving. (Unless I'm horsing around too much :-)
But my RS5000's are reasonably stiff, so that helps.
Scott
- --
_____
/_/_|_\__ Scott Wilson TLCA #5261 CA4WDC #13393
| _ _ : 88 4Runner SR5 V6
*/_\---/_\' Santa Clara, CA
(_) (_) http://www.off-road.com/~swilson
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 00:38:04 -0600
From: breeze@cysource.com (Jeffrey Delzer)
Subject: Coil over shocks
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Jack Alford wrote:>>>> Harsh rides come from spring rates that are too high, when was>>> the last time you heard someone claim, my truck's ride is just too soft ?>>>>I hear it on a regular basis right here on this list. Too soft, too>>mushy, bottoms out too easily, etc., etc.>> You sure you're not confusing all the statements made about> different types of shocks ....
AFAIK, shocks have as much to do with ride quality as springs do, so
it's entirely possible that I'm lumping it all together.
Jeff Delzer
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 23:30:39 -0800
From: Jason Redman Subject: Gorman on Sunday
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Chris Geiger wrote:> I was thinking sunday if snow falls saturday. Gorman is at the> top of the grapevine (about just under 4000') hwy5.> In gorman is an offroad park called hungry valley.> I really want to take my sun up to play in the snow, last time> I went (last weekend) the snow was like ice and not much> of it at all. I will check the weather saturday afternoon and> post to the list if there is snow. I think it's only about 2 - 3> hourn from san deigo.> If it's on for Sunday, then count me in.
Austin Marriage
yeti@inetworld.net
96 Tacoma XCab 4X4 V6, 4"Downey, 33"BFG M/T's
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 15:31:01 +1100
From: "Steven Rowlandson" Subject: Hilux
To: The hilux in Australia was slightly different from the US version in the
80's...
We continued to use Solid axle until the late 88 change in shape, and have
never had a V6 option.
Our 4cylder was also different, not getting the 22RE at all, and the 22R on
88-> We used the 18R the 3Y 2.2 and then 86=> we had the 4Y 2.2
Our range was:
cab chassis
Single cab
Xtra Cab
Xtra Cab SR5
(in 80's SR5 indicated carpets, crome trim, better stereo, centre console,
cloth seats, etc)
Dual Cab
Dual Cab SR5
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 19:44:29 -0800
From: Jim Brink Subject: HiLux's
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
runars@isbank.is wrote:
The new hilux looks kind of like a mix up of the Tacoma and the> current Hilux. They have finally (unfortunatly) dumped the live front> axle alltogether, and the torsion bar setup is now standard on all> models, (live axles used to be on the low-grade diesels, as far as I> know).
The live axle Hiluxes are still around but in Deluxe trim only. The SR5s
are IFS. DON'T PANIC...
The carb'ed 22R has been dumped in favor of the 3RZ-FE 2.7 liter inline
four from the Tacoma.
The current Hilux trucks, in Aussie trim, are the same basic body-style
as our pre-Tacoma ('89-'95) trucks.
A friend of my runs a Toyota-Approved shop in Brisbane, QLD. AUS and
sees these things on a regular basis. I hate him :-)> The Tacoma is made in the states ain't it?
Yes, Fremont, CA NUMMI plant.
- --
Jim Brink--Toyota/ASE Certified Technician '86 Std. Bed 22R
Manhattan Beach, CA 32x11.50/15 BFG M/Ts
ToyTech@off-road.com
http://geiger.mcl.ucsb.edu/jim/jim.html
************************************************************************
TLCA# 6184/ Friends of the Mojave Road (FOMR)
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 16:17:12 -0800
From: "John M. Smith" Subject: HiLux?
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
What does HiLux mean anyway? hey, sorry, I am new.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 17:28:37 -0600
From: Jack Alford Subject: hub lock and knock ??s
To: >Question Two: When it is cold and I get into my truck I often times>hear two to four "thunks" from somewhere in the axles or springs,, my
>guess is that something is getting water on it then freezing and when>I jump in the car the movement breaks the ice free,, has anyone else>ever witnessed similiar sounds??
It is most likely your brakes or perhaps your u-joints if it REALLY gets
cold where
you live, especially if you are using the parking brake.
The pads 'freeze' to the drums. Sometimes to the point where it makes the
vehicle immovable. A propane torch can be used to thaw the pads from
the drum. Another possible, much more serious thought, is that if you
drove through deep snow and got the inside of the rims full of snow and then
got them wet. The wet snow in the rims freezes overnight and then when you
go to move the truck the frozen ice/snow rips the calipers from their mounts.
Which isn't a good thing. This obviously isn't happening to you, at least not
to the degree that it would stop the vehicle from moving, but something
to consider since you live in a snowy/icy area.
- jack
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 18:55:42 -0600
From: Mark Kitlinski Subject: hub lock and knock ??s
To: "Toy4x4@tlca.org" Chris wrote:> He also had the most dangerously long shackles I had ever seen, they> were like 6" long. So this gave him room for his 40" tires.
Ha that's nothing, I know a kid who modified his mid 60's F*rd for drag
racing. His truck has shackles that are almost 18", I told him he was crazy
(They looked like they were made out of 1/4 thick flat bar, two pieces bolted
together each about 12" long and 2" wide) All he had to say was that "it
hooked up good". All this for the 31" Mickey T's street tires he has,
needless to say he is still driving this thing with a foot of snow on the
ground here in Minnesota (2wd), some people are really messed up!
- --
Mark Kitlinski
'85 Xtra cab
Kitlinski@worldnet.att.net
http://www.geocities.com/baja/dunes/2580/
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 19:18:32 +0100 (MET)
From: Pete Hurd Subject: Ignition kill switch
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Hello all,
My last car fell victim to bump-n-jump outside of my place one night,
I heard a familiar engine start up and got to watch it disappear into the
night. Now I've got a Toy4x4 PU, and would like to not have this happen
again. Years ago I drove delivery, and all our vans had hidden switches
somewhere in the ignition system. It worked, every six months or so people
would try to drive off in them, but didn't get anywhere.
I'm tempted to put a switch into my Toyota, I'd sleep better. What I
don't know is much about the ideal place to break the circuit with a
switch. The delivery vans had them under the hood, which was
inconvienient enough that it makes me think there had to be a good reason
not to put it in the wires exiting the steering column (high current?)
So my obvious questions, is there a standard name for this operation,
where is the wisest place to put this switch in, and how does a motor
ignoramus (with a chilton's guide - not terribly enlightening on these
maters) find it?
TIA,
Cheers,
- -P.
- --
Pete Hurd pete@zool.su.se
Zoologiska Institutionen Ph# +46-8-16-40-37
Stockholms Universitetet Fax +46-8-16-77-15
Stockholm S-106 91 Sweden http://ethology.zool.su.se/pete.html
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 15:09:03 -0800
From: Chris Geiger Subject: Moab 98'
To: "Toy4x4@tlca.org" , cgeiger@gte.net
At Bob Williams request I am putting together a web page for those going
on this summers Moab trip. If you are planning to go please send an
email to
cgeiger@gte.net with your truck type and year, tire size, lift size, R &
P
gear size and what 's in the diffs. I will post the trucks descriptions
onto the
web page so everyone can see who's going. Also include your web page if
you have one.
Chris Gegier 93 4Runner http://geiger.mcl.ucsb.edu/offroad.html
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 23:38:36 -0500
From: Kevin Watters Subject: Mud Tires
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org> Howdy all, I promise I'll shut-up about tires and just go buy some soon :)> but all the responses have been really informative, so here's another> question. The other day someone suggested that I look at Buckshots. Have> any of you'll used Buckshot Radial Mudders? How do these compare to the> Super Swamper Radials for general on and off road use? At this point I> think I will go with either the Super Swamper Radial (31 x 9.5-15) or the> Buckshot Radial Mudder (31.5 x 9.5-15 (approx.)) Thanks much.>> I have the buckshot's now and for mud they are not bad. I have only had
the swamper bias ply to compare it to though. The swamper is untouchable
in the mud as far as I am concerned, the buckshot was better for noise
on the road, and neither are very good in the snow compared to my bfg
all-terrains. That's my story and I'm stickin' to it.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 16:28:36 -0700
From: "Jay Kopycinski" Subject: NWOR springs
To: Toyota 4x4 List runars@isbank.is wrote:>The special arch in the OME is that they have a flat axle seat area.>This has something to do with not prestressing the leafs when thighting>the Ubolts. It's suposed to make the spring smoother and longer>lasting.
Well put Runar. I couldn't remember the specific reason myself.>Also the OME springs are pre saggered, that is OME guaranties that the>lift will stay. OME are probably the highest quality leafs ever made,>but on the stiffer side I belive (havent tried them myself). Tefoln>pads between leafs, greasanble shackle pins, bla,bla...
I agree....nicest springs I've seen. The ones I've seen for Toy
trucks/4Runners were actually fairly soft.
Jay Kopycinski '85 Toylet (ROKTOY)
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 21:34:25 -0800 (PST)
From: Darrell Creeks Subject: NWOR Springs
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
I have had nwor springs for about six years and I'm slowly weeding them out.
I have broke two main leafs in the front and one main leaf in the back. No
I will not buy them again. I called nwor last summer and asked how much a
set of 3.5" rear springs were. I was told they dont make those, so I said I
bought the 3.5" front and rear set, what about that. The guy said that kit
comes with 3.5" front and 2" rear. He tried to convince me that the front
needs more lift to keep it level. I had to ask him if he had ever seen a
toyota before. Every stock truck I have ever seen needs at least an 1.5"
lift in the rear to level it out. I got frustrated and hung up. Now I have
3.5" rear spring from foothill four wheel drive. Next will be coils.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 00:04:59 -0800
From: Greg Sue Subject: Optima, dual batts; isolator question
To: toy4x4@tlca.org
I run a red-top, dual-post Optima... I love it. I've drained it to
near-death twice, and no problems. Held up pretty good when my
alternator stopped working (packed with mud). It's a bit shorter than
the Diehard I used to have, and required Optima's red clip-on spacer for
the hold-down assembly to fit properly (a piece of wood would have also
worked). I am using side-post connectors, and the only extra precaution
I took was to cover the vertical hold-down rod with rubber heat-shrink
tubing to prevent accidental shorts should the connectors loosen and
move. I got a screaming deal on the battery; the previous owner had it
replaced under warranty, and it turned out to be his charging system...
it load-tested fine and I got it for Cdn $30.00! (my navigator works at
the shop)
I have seen a second battery mounted on the passenger side of the frame
just below the stock battery, to the right of the rad ('85 pickup). The
owner had a battery tray with two mounts welded 90M-0 which came down on
both sides of the frame, and the mounts were bolted through the frame to
each other. Plenty of clearance, and shorter cables than a bed-mounted
unit. I plan on doing this as soon as my friend finds me another
Optima... :)
Does anyone have any recommendations on battery isolators? (ie. brands,
ratings, or can I build one myself out of a couple of big diodes and
some aluminum extrusion?) I want to run the starter from one battery,
and everything else from the other battery.
BTW, Optima has a blue-top battery as well; the marine version. Don't
know it's specs, but I believe it's a deep-cycle. And if anyone is
planning on buying a battery, ask the battery store to let you read the
sales manual that Optima sends them, which outlines the features and
benefits of the Optima and provides some good information on the
construction and technology used.
Greg Sue
gregsue@usa.net
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 01:25:12 EST
From: CowbyUp77 Subject: Pickup vs. 4Runner
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
At some point in the near future, I might be selling my '85 Xtra-cab. Due
to friends I am looking into 4Runners, either '84 or '85.
My question is, In a comparo between the two, which would you( the list
members) choose. What's the difference in off-road ability, and Rock-crawl
ability between the 2. Any advice would be appreciated.
==============================================================================
Chuck Thomas CowbyUp77@aol.com
Ashland, OR
1985 Toy 4x4 Xtra-cab
Custom(home made) front winch bumper w/2 lights, 235/75R15 Wildcat Mud
Terrains
Custom(home made) light bar w/2 lights, And many more to come.
(If I keep kicking myself maybe I'll remember to take
some pictures of my bumper and light bar)
==============================================================================
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 14:21:52 -0800
From: Scott Wilson Subject: Reider Racing
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Eric Johnson wrote:> I ordered my trutracs and a rear installation kit from them. It came> quick, no hassles. I was a little perturbed that I spent nealry $1000> there in december and they still charged me $5 for their catalog, which> did not have the $10 coupon in it as promised, but other than that,> they've been pretty good.
I just gave them a call (800-522-2707) I don't know who answered the
phone but they were VERY friendly. He told me they didn't have a
catolog to send me, but did have some sorta flyer with the stuff they
carry.
Upon giving him my mailing address he also told me that Rearend
Specialties is in my area...that's the shop that installed my Detroit
and I always refer people to them. He said they've NEVER had a return
from that shop. He says they can tell how good a shop is by the number
of returns they get from them...
He inquired as to what parts I was interested in...I told him I'll be
doing gears and a TrueTrac for the front of my 88 4Runner. He said he's
familiar with Toys, and has several brochers with Toy related stuff he's
going to send me.
Nice guy. I wish more places would get it through their heads that good
customer service will earn them a good reputation.
Scott
- --
_____
/_/_|_\__ Scott Wilson TLCA #5261 CA4WDC #13393
| _ _ : 88 4Runner SR5 V6
*/_\---/_\' Santa Clara, CA
(_) (_) http://www.off-road.com/~swilson
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 12:32:47 -1000 (HST)
From: Eric Johnson Subject: Reider Racing
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
On Thu, 15 Jan 1998, Scott Wilson wrote:> Eric Johnson wrote:>>> I ordered my trutracs and a rear installation kit from them. It came>> quick, no hassles. I was a little perturbed that I spent nealry $1000>> there in december and they still charged me $5 for their catalog, which>> did not have the $10 coupon in it as promised, but other than that,>> they've been pretty good.>> I just gave them a call (800-522-2707) I don't know who answered the
I was talking about 4WPW, not reider...> phone but they were VERY friendly. He told me they didn't have a> catolog to send me, but did have some sorta flyer with the stuff they> carry.>> He inquired as to what parts I was interested in...I told him I'll be> doing gears and a TrueTrac for the front of my 88 4Runner. He said he's> familiar with Toys, and has several brochers with Toy related stuff he's> going to send me.
There's a special carrier bearing you'll need to get from Toyota for this
(using a trutrac in the front of a toy ifs). remind me and I'll look up
the part # from my receipts. its NOT the same as stock.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 20:56:45 -0800
From: "Nate & Nicole Mutch" Subject: solenoid
To: "Toyota mailing list" Barney McNamara wrote,
With this approach, when does the battery used when the engine is off
get charged? If it is switched out of the circuit while the engine is
running, the alternator cannot charge it.
In this set-up we are using a deep cycle battery as our secondary battery
running accessories whether our engine is on or off.the solenoid switch is
connected between your primary(start) battery and secondary(accessory)
battery in the positive line, batteries connected in parrallel. when the
engine is started, the solenoid engages, allowing the alternator to charge
the secondary battery.when the engine is off the solenoid opens, seperating
the circuit between the batteries, so your accessories can drain your deep
cycle, without draining your start battery.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Jan 98 09:50:22
From: "Fisher, Gary" Subject: Stereo Post
To: toy4x4@tlca.org
DG RM125 wrote:>> I have A Jensen CD player w/det. face plate. When I crank it, the LED dims
and> brightens w/the music. Any advice is very much apreciated.
If you are running a seperate amp, then it's drawing heaps of current from your
battery and your battery can't deliver the power fast enough causing the head
deck too flicker (i think).
You could try running bigger wire to the amp or fitting a 1 micro pharad(?)
power cap in line. These things are just big capacitors which your battery
charges up slowly and then the power cap can give heaps of current instantly to
your amp. Your stereo will even be a bit louder...This should fix it.
If your not running an amp then bigger power and earth wires to the head deck
and possibly checking out your alternator charge could fix it..
When I turn my stero up, my head deck flickers, my volt gauge bounces, tacho
bounces and then headlights dim.....learn to live with it.
Gary Fisher
garyf@hpa.com.au
**************************************************
* 89 Hilux Extra Cab 2.8 Turbo Diesel *
* Plenty of dents and scratches *
* Soon to be up for sale...I think *
**************************************************
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 17:42:43 -0800
From: "Allen Jensen" Subject: Stereo Post
To: Another possibility for power sags can be a bad ground wire connection, or
using too small a wire for the ground. Many people forget to run a high
grade wire for the ground wire.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 17:51:04 -0800
From: Brandon Miller Subject: Stereo Post
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Put a larger power wire to your amp, and make sure you have a good
ground. I used to have that affect but no longer...
Chris wrote:>>>> I have A Jensen CD player w/det. face plate. When I crank it, the>> LED dims and>> brightens w/the music. Any advice is very much apreciated.>>>> Same with my Alpine. I don't think it's anything you could fix.>> The>> only thing you could do is run better wires to the stereo from the>> battery. Even that won't probably help. You'll probably have to>> live>> with it.>>>> Scott>> -->>>> I don't have a problem with this but I have wires comin off my batter> going to my amp, And I think I had a ohm meter and found the wire> under the dash with the most power and used that one for my> stereo..........But I am not sure its been a while. Hell I might be> running my stereo off the battery.......To much of a pain in the ass> to take apart and see.>> Chris Austin Jr.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 23:27:21 -0800
From: Jason Redman Subject: stereo stobe lights
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
DG RM125 wrote:> I have A Jensen CD player w/det. face plate. When I crank it, the LED> dims and> brightens w/the music. Any advice is very much apreciated.
Your stereo is doing this because of one reason and that is your system
voltage is decreasing. When the power required is increased (i.e. a
loud bass note) your amp draws more current (voltage x current =
watts). If you still have the stock 60 or 70 amp alternator, it will
likely not be able to handle much more than one small amp. So when your
system draws more amps than your alternator can provide, the rest comes
from the battery (which, along with the voltage regulator, controls
system voltage). Basically, you want 14.4 volts at the tip of the power
lead to your stereo and your amps, but you'll never acheive that. Any
lead-acid or equivalent battery has a fair amount of internal
resistance. This means that as the discharge rate of the battery
increases, so does the voltage drop across the internal resistance of
the battery. Therefore system voltage decreases. By installing a high
output alternator, all the power requirements of your system can be
handled by the alternator, therefore keeping system voltage from
dropping. Another big factor is the size and amount of wire you're
running. Smaller wire has a smaller cross sectional area, and therefore
has more resistance per unit length. As the resistance of the wiring
increases, the voltage drop across the wiring increases, resulting in a
lower voltage at the load (your stereo). So, run larger wire and only
use what is necessary. You can also install capacitors in your system,
which store energy and act as a sort of instantaneous power reserve.
They charge up when voltage is high, then when a loud bass note comes
along and draws more power and lowers voltage they will discharge, which
again reduces the load on the system and keeps voltage high. Or you
could just turn the volume down! (but that's not fun, is it?)
Austin Marriage
yeti@inetworld.net
96 Tacoma XCab 4X4 V6, 4"Downey, 33"BFG M/T's
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 22:35:04 -0800
From: Chris Subject: TIRES
To: "Toy4x4@tlca.org" I have a no lift 86' Truck and was woundering whats the biggest I could
go in
Swampers?? I have some 31x11.5 Wrangler A/T's on right now and they
don't seem to
rub. I would like some good mudding tires and some noise ones to cuz I
am 17 and like
the loud tires, Exhaust, and stereo. All thats around my house is mud
and hills with mud.
I would also like to lift my truck alittle I heard something about new
torsion bars and new springs?? What should I do to lift it with out
buying a Susp. lift and my back end is saging. I hate body lifts.
Thanks,
Chris Austin Jr.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 09:04:05 -0800
From: Chris Geiger Subject: TIRES
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org> I have a no lift 86' Truck and was woundering whats the biggest I could> go in Swampers??
32" X 11.50" on stock wheels is about it
Chris Gegier 93 4Runner http://geiger.mcl.ucsb.edu/offroad.html
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 15:53:47 -0800
From: Chris Geiger Subject: TJM Bumper
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
I like mine, much stronger than stock and has room for a winch
Chris Geiger 93 4Runner http://geiger.mcl.ucsb.edu/offroad.html
John McCool wrote:> I am considering purchasing the TJM bumper .
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 18:38:04 -0800
From: "Jim O'Connor" Subject: Unsubscribe
To: Please remove me from the subscription list, Thanks!
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 18:43:36 -0500
From: Ed.Wong@astramerck.com
Subject: V6 Headgasket Recall
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
This may all be hearsay, but one of the Yota parts guys said the new
headgaskets come with a brass "staple" between the holes where
the gasket tends to blow.... some fix
On could of course call Paeco in Alabama and get them to make
a copper head gasket for ya. That should be blow proof.
Then there's the O ring option :)
EWong
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 19:54:36 -0800
From: Jim Brink Subject: V6 Headgasket Recall
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org>> Brian_Madorin@infinity.com wrote:>>>> About a month ago I remember seeing a posting from someone that said it was>> rumored that Toyota had come up with a new headgasket design that was>> superior to the one that they have been replacing. It went on to say that>> Toyota was going to put this new gasket design even in trucks that they had>> already done a replacement (at no charge).>> Like I said the posting said that this was a rumor.>> Has anyone heard any news that this might be true?
Yes, there is a new design gasket. It has been reinforced in the cooling
jacket areas.
I have heard instances of head gasket replacement a second time if the
gaskets were originally replaced with the older parts.
Aftermarket parts manufactures like Fel-Pro have even followed through
and improved their gasket design to incorporate some of the changes made
in the OEM parts.
- --
Jim Brink--Toyota/ASE Certified Technician '86 Std. Bed 22R
Manhattan Beach, CA 32x11.50/15 BFG M/Ts
ToyTech@off-road.com
http://geiger.mcl.ucsb.edu/jim/jim.html
************************************************************************
TLCA# 6184/ Friends of the Mojave Road (FOMR)
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 16:16:17 -0800
From: "John M. Smith" Subject: V6 mods
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
come on someone has to have some secrets for the Toy v6 3vz?
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 16:13:23 -0800
From: Scott Wilson Subject: V6 mods
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
John M. Smith wrote:>> come on someone has to have some secrets for the Toy v6 3vz?
OBVIOUSLY you haven't looked in the list archive yet.
http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toy4x4/toy4x4_digest.html
- --
_____
/_/_|_\__ Scott Wilson TLCA #5261 CA4WDC #13393
| _ _ : 88 4Runner SR5 V6
*/_\---/_\' Santa Clara, CA
(_) (_) http://www.off-road.com/~swilson
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 16:47:29 -0800
From: Scott Wilson Subject: V6 mods
To: Toy 4x4 List >>> come on someone has to have some secrets for the Toy v6 3vz?>>>> OBVIOUSLY you haven't looked in the list archive yet.>> http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toy4x4/toy4x4_digest.html
ooops. Someone pointed out to me I sound mean and grumpy....I guess I
meant to say
:-)
OBVIOUSLY you haven't looked in the list archive yet.
http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toy4x4/toy4x4_digest.html
:-)
Scott :-)
- --
_____
/_/_|_\__ Scott Wilson TLCA #5261 CA4WDC #13393
| _ _ : 88 4Runner SR5 V6
*/_\---/_\' Santa Clara, CA
(_) (_) http://www.off-road.com/~swilson
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
------------------------------
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