Toy4x4 Digest          Thu, 15 Jan 98 00:30:02 (HST)  Volume 1 : Issue 656
 Today's Topics:
 Bio
 Coil over shocks (3 msgs)
 Downey 1.5" rear spacer (2 msgs)
 dual 6 volts
 Dual Batteries
 Front wheel tilted other way (2 msgs)
 GPS in a Toyota?
 hub lock and knock ??s (4 msgs)
 Idler arm problems
 List for Death Valley Run
 Lot's of stuff over break and the 20R head works!!
 NWOR springs (4 msgs)
 Power steering
 starter problem (4 msgs)
 Stereo Post (4 msgs)
 unsubscribe (2 msgs)
 unsubscribe (NOT REALLY)
 What garage Tach works with an 81 Toyota 22R ?? (2 msgs)
 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
 ---   Toyota 4x4 Mailing List  (Toy4x4)   ---
 ** Sponsored by OFF-ROAD.com, The Off-Road Center of the 'Net! **
 **      Visit our WWW Page -- "http://www.off-road.com"        **
 **          TLCA Web Page -- "http://www.tlca.org"             **
 To post to list:
 Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Administrative matters (sign up, unsubscribe, mail problems, etc):
 Toy4x4-request@tlca.org
 Digest back issues are available at:
 http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toy4x4/toy4x4_digest.html
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 17:42:35 -0500
 From: odelay  Subject: Bio
 To: Toy4x4  Name:Adam Freedman
 City & State:Herndon
 Country:VA
 E-mail address:odelay@pop.dn.net
 Toyota (s) year & model:1986 4Runner (mine)  1996 4Runner (Mothers)
 Are you a TLCA Member (Y/N/Number?): No
 Age: 17
 Occupation: Student
 Marital Status: Single
 Hobbies: My Truck, 4 Wheeling
 How did you find out about the Toyota 4x4 Mailing List: Off-Road.com
 General info about your vehicle, self, etc.: My 86 4Runner has a 3inch
 lift 33/12.50 Bridgestone desert duelers on 15/10 American racing
 wheels.  I have a Kayline Soft top and bright yellow undercariage
 highlights.  Despite being one of the best looking 4x4 around, My
 4Runner is also a very capable trail vehicle.
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 19:45:00 -1233
 From: s0baker@usuhsb.usuhs.mil
 Subject: Coil over shocks
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org
 My '87 4Runner has butt sag.  I have seen all the various fixes ways
 to get rid of it (new springs, blocks, shackles, add-a leafs, etc) and
 was wondering why nobody uses the coil over type shocks.  Couldn't
 you take out a leaf or two then add shocks that have the built in coil
 over springs?  You would probably have to run one of those thingies
 that keep the axle from twisting under acceleration.  Any ideas
 one why nobody (at least on this list) does this?  LAter
 Bakes
 87 Runner
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 20:03:28 -0500
 From: Darren Floen  Subject: Coil over shocks
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 This is an ok method to cure butt sag,if you don't mind fixing broken
 shock mounts.Get yourself a set of shackles and poly bushings and have
 fun counting all the money you saved!
 Darren
 s0baker@usuhsb.usuhs.mil wrote:>> My '87 4Runner has butt sag.  I have seen all the various fixes ways> to get rid of it (new springs, blocks, shackles, add-a leafs, etc) and> was wondering why nobody uses the coil over type shocks.  Couldn't> you take out a leaf or two then add shocks that have the built in coil> over springs?  You would probably have to run one of those thingies> that keep the axle from twisting under acceleration.  Any ideas> one why nobody (at least on this list) does this?  LAter>> Bakes> 87 Runner
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 22:19:31 -0500
 From: Bob Bascom  Subject: Coil over shocks
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 s0baker@usuhsb.usuhs.mil wrote:>> My '87 4Runner has butt sag.  I have seen all the various fixes ways> to get rid of it (new springs, blocks, shackles, add-a leafs, etc) and> was wondering why nobody uses the coil over type shocks.  Couldn't> you take out a leaf or two then add shocks that have the built in coil> over springs?  You would probably have to run one of those thingies> that keep the axle from twisting under acceleration.  Any ideas> one why nobody (at least on this list) does this?  LAter>> Bakes> 87 Runner
 I have coil over shocks on the front of my '87 4runner. They didn't
 change the ride height but they did compensate for to soft of shocks
 and  they helped with the body sway a little bit.  I used some cheap
 coil springs from pepboys.
 Ryan Bascom
 '87 4runner
 bascom@erols.com
 TLCA# 5943
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 02:21:37 -0800
 From: Chris Geiger  Subject: Downey 1.5" rear spacer
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org, deo@guittard.com
 The 2nd gen 4Runner sag in the rear from the factory and the front
 torsion bars sag after a few years of normal driving. Using the
 downey 1.5" springs are ideal to just level the truck. The rear
 will not be too high if the front torsion bars are set at the factory
 setting. I have the heavy duty 1.5' Downey springs and I can
 tell you they are much better then the stock spring, That spring
 is what toyota should have installed at the factory. Try this, put
 a jack under the back of your truck and with a tape measure
 jack up the frame 2" (about what the spring will add) leaving
 the tires on the ground. Now step back and look to see what
 a 4Runner should look like! Then when you add the rancho
 lift you can add the spacer under the spring and you will be
 all set.
 See how to adjust the front torsion bars back to factory at :
 http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota/tech/torsion/
 Chris Geiger 93 4Runner http://geiger.mcl.ucsb.edu/offroad.html
 Farrales, Deo wrote:> Hey guys,>> I've got a 2nd gen 4Runner w/ an estimated 1" rear sag.  Will the Downey> 1.5" rear spacer work w/ the stock rear coils?  I want to correct the> sag but I didn't want to go w/ the 1.5" coils because it would end up> sitting higher than the front and then I would have to adjust the> t-bars, etc..  I figured this might work until I can afford the whole> Downey/Rancho kit.  My only concern was if the spacer would work w/ the> stock coil.  Also, would the rear sway bar be affected too much by this?
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 00:30:13 -0700
 From: Brian Rishaw  Subject: Downey 1.5" rear spacer
 To: Toyota 4x4 Digest-posting  Hey Deo,
 The 1.5" rear spacer would work fine in your situation - you would
 raise it about 1.5" and still keep the stock spring rate/ride.  The rear
 sway bar will be fine with just 1.5" of lift, but if you install the
 1.5" coils someday the sway bar links will need to be extended with the
 new links included in the spacer kit. If you install the coils, the
 panhard bar will also need to be dropped 3" with the extension in the
 spacer kit.
 But for now, just use the spacers and hang on to the other items
 when you get the coils. Also use the 1.5" extension for your rear brake
 proportioning valve and ABS hose as well as the longer braided steel
 brake line coming down to the axle housing.
 You might consider installing a set of air bags in the springs while
 you have them off - I've had mine for 5 yrs now, no problems with
 extreme rock crawling, and enjoy the flexibility when carrying or towing
 a heavy load!
 Good Luck!  -  Brian Rishaw
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 16:21:48 -0800
 From: "Nate & Nicole Mutch"  Subject: dual 6 volts
 To: "Toyota mailing list"  This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
 - ------=_NextPart_000_001B_01BD2108.83AF4A40
 Content-Type: text/plain;
 charset="iso-8859-1"
 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
 Why a twin 6 volt setup for deep cycling?
 First, remember the purpose of deep cycling...to provide a smaller =
 amount of current over a longer period of time. the key to doing this is =
 thicker lead plates(less surface area, with a denser material).each cell =
 in a battery is by nature approx 2 v.therefore in a 12 v battery you =
 have 6 cells.in a 6 volt battery you have 3 cells.in a 6 v. battery =
 (same physical size as 12 v.),the cells will be larger and therefore the =
 lead plates can be much thicker and more dense, required for deep =
 cycling. in 12 v batteries you have to maintain 6 cells, and therefore =
 are limited to the thickness you can acheive in the lead plates.
 i realize Runar you're not by any golf courses, but if you were, and =
 could look at the electric carts, you would see that they all run with =
 6v. batteries, for longevity(a deep cycle)
 - ------=_NextPart_000_001B_01BD2108.83AF4A40
 Content-Type: text/html;
 charset="iso-8859-1"
 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Why a twin 6 volt setup for deep cycling?
 
    First, remember=20
 the purpose of deep cycling...to provide a smaller amount of current =
 over a=20
 longer period of time. the key to doing this is thicker lead plates(less =
 surface=20
 area, with a denser material).each cell in a battery is by nature approx =
 2=20
 v.therefore in a 12 v battery you have 6 cells.in a 6 volt battery you =
 have 3=20
 cells.in a 6 v. battery (same physical size as 12 v.),the cells will be =
 larger=20
 and therefore the lead plates can be much thicker and more dense, =
 required for=20
 deep cycling. in 12 v batteries you have to maintain 6 cells, and =
 therefore are=20
 limited to the thickness you can acheive in the lead =
 plates.
    i =
 realize Runar=20
 you're not by any golf courses, but if you were, and could look at the =
 electric=20
 carts, you would see that they all run with 6v. batteries, for =
 longevity(a deep=20
 cycle)
 - ------=_NextPart_000_001B_01BD2108.83AF4A40--
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 14:59:17 -0800
 From: Barney McNamara  Subject: Dual Batteries
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Nate wrote:>the better way to set up is with a solenoid switch,using an ignition>hot lead (in other words it switches on when you start your engine).
 With this approach, when does the battery used when the engine is off
 get charged? If it is switched out of the circuit while the engine is
 running, the alternator cannot charge it.
 ______________________________________________________________
 Barney McNamara              JENNY - 83 Toyota Short Bed
 ( barney@flowpoint.com )     stock 22R motor ; 3" body lift
 Santa Cruz, Ca.              8" alloy rims; 31" BFG A/Ts
 homepage: http://www.scruz.net/~barneym/barnhome.htm
 ______________________________________________________________
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 19:39:46 ADT
 From: "Corey Smith"  Subject: Front wheel tilted other way
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 I have seen all the messages about the wheel tilted out at the top,
 but mine is tilted in at the top.  When I jack it up it does not
 wiggle.  What else could it be and how hard is it to take apart?
 Corey
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 19:13:29 -0500
 From: Darren Floen  Subject: Front wheel tilted other way
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 What year is your truck?
 Darren
 Corey Smith wrote:>> I have seen all the messages about the wheel tilted out at the top,> but mine is tilted in at the top.  When I jack it up it does not> wiggle.  What else could it be and how hard is it to take apart?>> Corey
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 30 Dec 1997 09:32:18 -0500
 From: seth45@juno.com (Seth D Lavinder)
 Subject: GPS in a Toyota?
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 On Sun, 28 Dec 1997 17:34:25 +1100 The Manager
 writes:>Does anyone have a GPS reciever in thier Toyota 4wd? Perhaps you could>mail>me direct in case this is off topic. I am especially interested in>being
 I surely cannot think of why this would be off topic.  Sure the mailing
 list is about TOYOTA only.  But isnt the other side of the story
 OFFROADING??     TOYOTA&OFFROADING go hand in hand.  So navigational
 equipment falls in between there somewhere.
 I saw some pictures on the net of GPS systems that mount up where the
 dome light goes.  It was a nice looking console system I would love to
 know where to get one of those things!  I don other things with my truck
 that require me to have tracking ability with GPS and amateur Radio
 equipment, integrating this with my Toy's stock appearance would be
 great!>able to hook it up to my computer and making or marking maps etc.....>>I want to put it in my 1983 Hilux....
 Dont know if what Im talking about would work for you, I have never seen
 a 83 toy up close.  My truck is a 93.>Thanks guys/gals....>**********************************>Sale-Net>Internet Advertising>>http://sale-net.conxion.com.au>Home of Camera Capture>Member of A.S.A.N>>http://asan.actcase.com/>***********************************
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 23:38:56 -0700
 From: KIBO GROUP ARCHITECTURE  Subject: hub lock and knock ??s
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org
 1981 4x4 long bed
 Question One: Is it bad to drive around for short distances
 with my hubs locked but the tranny still in two low....with the
 Montana icy winter well under way I have spent the last two weeks
 in and out of 4-high so much that I am getting lazy about jumping
 out and un-locking the hubs.
 Question Two: When it is cold and I get into my truck I often times
 hear two to four "thunks" from somewhere in the axles or springs,, my
 guess is that something is getting water on it then freezing and when
 I jump in the car the movement breaks the ice free,, has anyone else
 ever witnessed similiar sounds??
 thanks for any help
 jeff
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 11:02:51 -0800
 From: Chris Geiger  Subject: hub lock and knock ??s
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 No, your can drive for long distances with the front hubs locked
 without any damage. It just causes the front axle and drive shaft
 to spin and causes no more wear than being in 4WD.
 Chris Geiger 93 4Runner http://geiger.mcl.ucsb.edu/offroad.html> Question One: Is it bad to drive around for short distances> with my hubs locked but the tranny still in two low....with the> Montana icy winter well under way I have spent the last two weeks> in and out of 4-high so much that I am getting lazy about jumping> out and un-locking the hubs.>> Question Two: When it is cold and I get into my truck I often times> hear two to four "thunks" from somewhere in the axles or springs,, my> guess is that something is getting water on it then freezing and when> I jump in the car the movement breaks the ice free,, has anyone else> ever witnessed similiar sounds??>> thanks for any help> jeff
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 01:31:46 -0600
 From: breeze@cysource.com (Jeffrey Delzer)
 Subject: hub lock and knock ??s
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 KIBO GROUP ARCHITECTURE wrote:>> 1981 4x4 long bed>> Question One: Is it bad to drive around for short distances> with my hubs locked but the tranny still in two low
 It's just fine to drive all winter in 2Lo with the hubs locked. You
 might see a very slight reduction in gas mileage and very slight
 increase in front drive line wear, but for the sheer convenience of it,
 I'd definitely recommend locking your hubs and leaving them locked till
 spring. That's what I used to do when I lived there. Now, driving in 4Hi
 on high traction surfaces is another story, of course.> Question Two: When it is cold and I get into my truck I often times> hear two to four "thunks" from somewhere in the axles or springs,, my> guess is that something is getting water on it then freezing and when> I jump in the car the movement breaks the ice free,, has anyone else> ever witnessed similiar sounds??
 I lived in Montana for 5 years and heard a similar noise each and every
 morning when it was below zero, no matter which of my 3 vehicles I
 jumped in. I assumed it was the shock seals freezing up, but no harm
 ever seemed to come from it. Personally, I wouldn't worry about it.
 Jeff Delzer
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 00:31:40 -0700
 From: Herman Snodgrass  Subject: hub lock and knock ??s
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 At 11:38 PM 1/14/98 -0700, you wrote:>1981 4x4 long bed>>Question One: Is it bad to drive around for short distances>with my hubs locked but the tranny still in two low....with the>Montana icy winter well under way I have spent the last two weeks>in and out of 4-high so much that I am getting lazy about jumping>out and un-locking the hubs.> Ok, I think it will not hurt anything to do this.  It will just wear out
 the front end a little bit quicker. . .  I'm doing the same thing here in
 Utah.>Question Two: When it is cold and I get into my truck I often times>hear two to four "thunks" from somewhere in the axles or springs,, my>guess is that something is getting water on it then freezing and when>I jump in the car the movement breaks the ice free,, has anyone else>ever witnessed similiar sounds??> Maybe leaky brake cyl.? I don't know but my trucks been doing the samething
 going into 4x and after sitting in sub-freezing temps for a while.
 Have Fun & Stay Safe
 Herman Snodgrass
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 01:12:46 -0700
 From: Brian Rishaw  Subject: Idler arm problems
 To: Toyota 4x4 Digest-posting  The entire idler arm assembly very rarely needs replacing and as we all
 have found out, it can be very expensive - $100+ each time!  Unless the
 idler arm housing or another steering component sustains a direct
 impact, the problem lies with worn out bushings within the idler arm
 housing.  Toyota sells idler arm rebuild kits (2 bushings and an oil
 seal) for under $20.
 Remove the dust cap and bolt under it, and the 3 bolts holding the
 housing to the frame.  Tap the housing upward off the idler arm shaft -
 there is no need to remove the idler arm from the tie rod!  Now take the
 housing over to your bench, remove the bottom oil seal and the 2
 bushings, clean it up real good, install new grease, seal, and 2 new
 bushings and put it all back together paying close attention to the
 torque specs.  Inspect the idler arm shaft - you can check for
 straightness with a ruler.  If water ever got into the housing it may
 have some rust on it.  Remove surface rust with sandpaper, but if it is
 badly pitted at the level of the bushings it will need to be replaced.
 The aftermarket idler arm trusses are a good idea, especially with
 larger-than-stock tires, and seem to extend the life of the bushings.
 The larger your tires, and the more extreme you use your truck, seems to
 shorten the life of the stock type bushings considerably. (If you buy an
 idler arm from Northwest O/R the factory replacement bushings will NOT
 fit.) The factory bushings are made of a plastic type of material and
 are prone to wear with extreme use/abuse.  I took my idler arm and new
 bushings down to my local machine shop and he made me four new bushings
 (two extra for the same $$$) out of oil-impregnated brass for around
 $45!!  I have yet to wear these bushings out after 1.5 yrs of hard
 wheeling out here in the AZ desert/mts. with my 90 4Runner and 33's!!
 Hope I've helped -- Brian Rishaw
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 00:08:04 -0800
 From: "Sandy and Terry"  Subject: List for Death Valley Run
 To:  Just got back from Las Vegas tonight.  Just finished sorting through 262 new
 messages.  (No I didn't read them all.  Just the ones related to DV.)
 Anyway,  this is the list as of now.  Let me know if I left anyone off or of
 any last minute changes.  Try to email before Friday morning.
 Terry Johnson                       Pleasanton      '89 Xtra Cab
 Rich & Adriana Aguinsky    Palo Alto          '87 4Runner
 Don West                              Los Gatos        '94 Std Cab
 Tim Stucky                            Kingsburg        '84 Std Cab
 Henry Brimmer                     San Francisco  FJ40
 James Fisher                       Fremont            '93 Bronco
 Roger Brown                        Santa Clara      '85 4Runner
 I'll be leaving Pleasanton around 10 a.m. and head over the Altamount Pass.
 Don West is also planning to leave Los Gatos at 10 a.m.  We may meet
 somewhere around Bakersfield.  If anyone wants to follow Don from the South
 Bay or me from the East Bay you can email either one of us.
 See ya real soon,
 Terry Johnson
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 00:16:39 -0800 (PST)
 From: Jonathan Albrecht  Subject: Lot's of stuff over break and the 20R head works!!
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Well schools going again, and I'm back (whoopy do).  Over the past
 month or so we managed to get a few things done and working and when I
 get a chance I'll go into a bit more depth.. but anyway..
 We FINALLY got the rear springs off my friend's '86!!  Let me just say
 that for cutting those front bolts, using a sawzall is next to
 worthless!  After three blades and maybe putting a small nick in the
 bolt we switched to a cutting disk.  This took some working out, to get
 the disc to work on the cutter (we had a makita 4" grinder w/ a 4" die
 grinder disc), but it did work pretty well.  The major complications,
 aside from it being 20 degree's in the garage when we did this, was that
 all the ready made makita disks were too thick, so we had to sorta jury
 rig it to use the die grinder discs.  The other big problem is that the
 gas tank is right in the spot where you need to hold the grinder, so we
 ended up just bending the spring hanger until the spring fell out on
 that side.  Over all, I bet we've put at least 20hrs into getting those
 suckers off!!
 Tachometer.  I've mentioned/heard that you can use any '84-'88 tach on
 any '84-'88 truck, and it's true but... on some models (at least on my
 friend's '86 carbed base model truck) there's no wire for the tach in
 the wiring harness.  So what we had to do, was run a wire from the 'tach
 test plug' deal (there's no negative on the coil--that I can find
 anyway) up to the right spot on the wiring harness that plugs into the
 instrument cluster.  I believe it was Slot #6 on plug 'A' but I can't
 remember for sure. The back of the cluster is numberd/lettered if you're
 wondering what I'm talking about.  I should have a couple good shots
 from the factory manual on my web page in a week or two (the factory
 manual tells what each wire does).
 And the big mod:  20R head on a 1984 22r block.
 I'll definately go into specifics later when I get the chance, but for a
 basic run down...
 Most any 20r head will fit, ours was a 1980 model, but the older ones (I
 think around '75-'77ish) are better flowing
 You don't need to do anything to the head, but since we wanted the most
 power from this, we had 22r valves fitted, put in a downey cam, and had
 the head shaved a bit to give about a 10:1 compression ratio.  We also
 re-used the 22r aluminum rockers and valve springs.
 Otherwise, it turned out to be very strait forward, with no
 modifications neccesary, except for using a 20r intake manifold and the
 20r intake manifold gasket.
 One thing about the 20r manifold (or this particular one anyway), is
 that it does have less vaccuum fittings than the 22r one did.. it also
 lacks the heater deal that snakes over from the exhaust manifold.
 Neither thing was that big a deal for us, since he has a weber.. and
 even though the truck does live in alaska, it doesn't get all that cold
 where we live.
 Here's what we noticed:  More power, but not a massive increase.  Kinda
 similar to bolting on a weber or a good exhaust system.  This was a bit
 of a disapointment, cause I'd have expected similar results from either
 the 10:1 compression ratio or the cam.. but considering that we had all
 that, plus a fully rebuilt head--and the better flowing 20r head at
 that, plus a new, non-leaking head gasket.. well, I guess I was
 expecting more power.
 But don't get me wrong, it does well.  It goes great right off the line
 to 4000rpm no problem.  It holds 4th pretty well, and can do 5th if
 you're going over 65 on the flat with a mild tail wind.  Not bad for 36"
 swampers and stock gearing!  In comparison, my newer EFI 4runner with
 35" bfg's feels like I'm driving in sand when I'm on the highway.
 Oh yeah, in addition to the 20r head stuff, he's also running a 38mm
 (380cfm, I think.. or maybe it's 390) weber, monster K&N, downey header,
 downey 2.5" dynomax exhaust w/out cat, and some nice looking spark plug
 wires.
 You've really got to try out his motor side-by-side with a stock one to
 appreciate what all this has done for it.  The most noticeable thing by
 far is the throttle response.  In short, it's amazing.  When idling in
 neutral, you can step on the gas, and the tach whips up to 5000rpm just
 about as quickly as you push on the gas.  It's as though the needle is
 hooked directly to the gas pedal.  Pretty cool, though it can be a PITA
 if you're trying to 'gently' speed up the motor.  Kinda like a hair
 trigger throttle.  Strangley it slows down just as quickly.  It can do
 800-5000-800 rpm in the same time it takes to push in and let go of the
 pedal.  I don't know why.. it's done this (the slowing down part) ever
 since he bought the truck.
 Overall, he's got a good motor, and when/if we ever do the bottom end
 with new pistons, it should be quite the little ripper.  But it's still
 not a v8.  It's got good power, it's peppy, and it's well matched to the
 drivetrain, but believe me, it's no v8...  So far we've got a good $1600
 in the motor, and once the gears are in, that'll be another $1000 or so.
 Granted $2600 isn't quite enough to swap in a v8, but it's close, and
 I'm sure a few have done it for a lot less...
 _______
 Jonathan Albrecht                      __.           /_/__|__\__
 albr9619@uidaho.edu                 __/__|\___       |_.--.__,--;
 http://www.uidaho.edu/~albr9619    :--.__|.--.|,---- ~'(__)'`(__)
 `'`'`''`'`'`''``'`'`'`'`''`'`'``'`
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 19:07:52 -0500
 From: Darren Floen  Subject: NWOR springs
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Jason,check out Barney Mcnamara's page.Everything you ever wanted to
 know about toyota springs is there.Everyone i talked to about said NWOR
 springs are junk,and their service is even worse.
 Barney's page http://www.scruz.net/~barneym/barnhome.htm
 Let us know what springs you pick and how you like them.
 Darren
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 17:12:54 -0700
 From: "Jay Kopycinski"  Subject: NWOR springs
 To: Toyota 4x4 List  Jason Wilson  wrote:>Can anyone tell me if the 3.5" front springs from Northwest Off-Road>Specialties for the solid axle are any good.  I right now I have 3.5" Rough>Country springs, and they're so stiff that I hardly have any flex.  I>called Alcan Springs, and they quoted me $145 per spring, and NWOR springs>are only $139.95 for a pair in their catalog.  I also checked on the price>of the Old Man Emu springs, and they run around $156 per spring.
 Uh oh....should I tell him guys ???
 You get what you pay for. The NWOR springs are cheap and stiff.
 Maybe ok if you only run mud, but WAY too stiff for crawling.
 The Alcans and OME run more because they use more leaves
 and use a more complicated manufacturing process......such
 as the special arch OME uses in their springs.......
 Jay Kopycinski    '85 Toylet  (ROKTOY)
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 20:03:11 -0800
 From: "Todd and Terry Steele"  Subject: NWOR springs
 To:  Jason wrote:>Can anyone tell me if the 3.5" front springs from Northwest Off-Road>Specialties for the solid axle are any good
 Go with the Alcans or the Old Man Emu.  If you go with NWOR, You'll be
 sorry!!!!
 Todd
 His:  87 Toyota 4X4, Marlin Tcase #180, EZ Lockers F/R, Custom rear bumper
 and nerfs, Ramsey F bumper, Trailmaster/Superlift 4", 30-11.50-15 TSL SX's
 on AR Type 23 15X8.  Custom Body by Sierra Nevada.
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 23:11:26 EST
 From: DRM033  Subject: NWOR springs
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 In a message dated 98-01-14 19:23:11 EST, you write:>  The Alcans and OME run more because they use more leaves>  and use a more complicated manufacturing process......such>  as the special arch OME uses in their springs.......
 When you mention special arch, do you perhaps mean when they arch the springs,
 they do not use a rounded arch, but a series of small "bends" instead?
 - ---------------------------------------------------------------------
 David Moore                       DRM033@aol.com
 90 Toyota Truck - 4" ProComp, 33" Swampers,
 4.88's, rear ARB, TJM bumper & Ramsey #8000
 TLCA #5662
 Traxx In Motion 4 Wheel Drive Club
 - ---------------------------------------------------------------------
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 19:39:50 EST
 From: Specilizd  Subject: Power steering
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 In a message dated 98-01-14 13:10:21 EST, you write:
<> I did this addition to my 81 4x4 pickup.   Yes the steering gearbox needs to
 be replaced.
 In addition.  I needed to get a fluid cooling tube thats runs behind the
 grill.  The crank pully on my truck was a single row pully.  On the power
 steering equipped trucks it was a 2 row pully. Actuallly I just bought the
 second half of the pully from a junk yard and it bolts onto the existing
 pully.   I also needed to get the resivoir that sits on the side of the engine
 compartment.  On american cars the resivoire is part of the pump.  A box full
 of hoses. All the hoses I used were from the junk yard, except for the output
 side of the pump.  This is the high pressure hose.  900-1000 psi here!!!  I
 opted for a new hose.
 For obvious reasons.
 REMEMBER! I have an 81 pickup.   I have seen a more recent 2wd toy and it had
 the same basic setup.
 Have fun!  Its brought a whole new level of satifaction to driving my beast.
 On & Off Road!
 Steve Keene  TLCA 5414
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 15:09:00 -0800
 From: Barney McNamara  Subject: starter problem
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Runar wrote:>I removed my started (I overheated it) few months ago, and I blessed>that bodylift a lot.  Can't figure out how to do it without it....
 He's right, I never thought of the starter being any problem to remove,
 but the body lift probably has something to do with that.
 John wrote:>Well i carry a little brass (something dont know what it is called, ill>find out).>Removing a starter from>a toy truck is a real PITA. This piece can be replaced on the vehicle.
 Runar replied:>I think our friend here is talking about the brushes, like the ones in>the alternator.
 Runar is right again, and if you think getting the starter out is a PITA,
 I can't imagine opening it up without removing it.
 ______________________________________________________________
 Barney McNamara              JENNY - 83 Toyota Short Bed
 ( barney@flowpoint.com )     stock 22R motor ; 3" body lift
 Santa Cruz, Ca.              8" alloy rims; 31" BFG A/Ts
 homepage: http://www.scruz.net/~barneym/barnhome.htm
 ______________________________________________________________
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 17:22:59 -0600
 From: "Michael Rowe"  Subject: starter problem
 To:  My buddy had to replace the starter in his non-bodylift '90 extended cab V6
 w/NWOR headers. He couldn't find a way to get it out without loosening the
 headers. Instead he pulled the carpet back and drilled a hole big enough to
 get the socket and extension through. Piece of cake after that. To seal it
 he just stuck a rubber grommet plug in it. I took a picture of it and have
 been waiting to see if anyone would like it for approximate location. I
 guess now's the time. If so, email me and I'll send it to you.
 Michael Rowe>>I removed my started (I overheated it) few months ago, and I blessed>>that bodylift a lot.  Can't figure out how to do it without it....
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 16:17:27 -0800
 From: Scott Muir  Subject: starter problem
 To: "Toy4x4@tlca.org"  Kevin Wrote:>>   Any tips on removing the starter?(I can easily get everything>>other than the top bolt un-done, but I can't reach the top bolt with
 my>>wrenches.  I can reach up from underneath and touch the bolt, though.)
 Barney Wrote:>You need a ratchet and an extension to reach in to get the top bolt
 from>the bottom.
 This worked for me: jonks ago Jim B. mentioned a nifty access panel
 in the passenger wheel well.  Take it out and you can better get at the
 top of the starter.  Works great for getting at the oil filter too.
 John Vargas:>Well i carry a little brass  ???? .....This piece can be replaced on
 the vehicle.
 ???? = Solenoid contact. Think its just copper actually.
 I've done this on 4 toys now.  There are 2 of these in the solenoid.
 It's been my experience
 that the one that takes the most punishment is the one you can't get
 access to the nut holding
 it place because there is an engine in the way.
 If your contacts are going, you should have a little notice on this.
  start...
 Scott.
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 16:33:32 -0800
 From: Scott Wilson  Subject: starter problem
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Scott Muir wrote:> If your contacts are going, you should have a little notice on this.>   start...
 I agree...you 'should'  get a warning...but I didn't last month.
 Started fine since I had it and ALL A SUDDEN, it wouldn't.  Kinda
 sucked.  :-)   At least it happened in my driveway.
 Scott
 - --
 _____
 /_/_|_\__       Scott Wilson TLCA #5261  CA4WDC #13393
 | _     _ :     88 4Runner SR5 V6
 */_\---/_\'     Santa Clara, CA
 (_)   (_)      http://www.off-road.com/~swilson
 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 22:12:37 EST
 From: DG RM125  Subject: Stereo Post
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 I have A Jensen CD player w/det. face plate. When I crank it, the LED dims and
 brightens w/the music. Any advice is very much apreciated.
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 22:39:43 -0600
 From: "Steve C."  Subject: Stereo Post
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 NORMAL
 my Pioneer does it too.  Its just a power drop from the music.
 DG RM125 wrote:>> I have A Jensen CD player w/det. face plate. When I crank it, the LED dims and> brightens w/the music. Any advice is very much apreciated.
 - --
 Steve Capuano			1996 Tacoma ext cab V6 4X4
 capuano@hypercon.com		31x10.50x15 Wrangler RT/S
 Houston, Texas			Rear LockRight  K&N filter
 Edelbrock headers
 NRA lifetime member		Dynomax 2.5" cat back
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 21:37:16 -0800
 From: Scott Wilson  Subject: Stereo Post
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 DG RM125 wrote:>> I have A Jensen CD player w/det. face plate. When I crank it, the LED dims and> brightens w/the music. Any advice is very much apreciated.
 Same with my Alpine.  I don't think it's anything you could fix.  The
 only thing you could do is run better wires to the stereo from the
 battery.  Even that won't probably help.  You'll probably have to live
 with it.
 Scott
 - --
 _____
 /_/_|_\__      Scott Wilson
 | _     _ :     Santa Clara, CA
 */_\---/_\'     http://www.off-road.com/~swilson
 (_)   (_)
 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 20:44:56 -1000 (HST)
 From: Eric Johnson  Subject: Stereo Post
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 On Wed, 14 Jan 1998, DG RM125 wrote:> I have A Jensen CD player w/det. face plate. When I crank it, the LED dims and> brightens w/the music. Any advice is very much apreciated.
 Turn it down. Especially at night when you're driving through my
 neighborhood :) It won't blink as much then.
 Seriously, when its cranked, and your amp is pulling a lot of power, it
 causes a voltage drop in the system and the lights and LEDs fade. turn it
 down and save your ears.
 flames to /dev/null
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 30 Dec 1997 09:33:09 -0500
 From: seth45@juno.com (Seth D Lavinder)
 Subject: unsubscribe
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 If your worried about bandwidth on this list stop message's like this one
 from being broadcast to us all.
 On Sun, 28 Dec 1997 04:59:22 EST Ruthowen  writes:>Please remove me from the mailing list> ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 20:41:13 -1000 (HST)
 From: Eric Johnson  Subject: unsubscribe
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 when we switch the list over to majordomo (real soon now) they will be
 automatically filtered out.
 On Tue, 30 Dec 1997, Seth D Lavinder wrote:> If your worried about bandwidth on this list stop message's like this one> from being broadcast to us all.>> On Sun, 28 Dec 1997 04:59:22 EST Ruthowen  writes:>>Please remove me from the mailing list>>> ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 18:54:41 -0800
 From: Scott Wilson  Subject: unsubscribe (NOT REALLY)
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Seth D Lavinder wrote:>> If your worried about bandwidth on this list stop message's like this one> from being broadcast to us all.>> On Sun, 28 Dec 1997 04:59:22 EST Ruthowen  writes:>>Please remove me from the mailing list>> Boy that's brilliant!  Why haven't we thought of it before? :-)
 The answer to the above question is that it is not possible with the
 list running the way it is now.
 We are in the process of changing the list to run on Majordomo, and hope
 to have the changeover completed in the next few weeks.  Once running on
 Majordomo the "Unsubscribe" messages should not show up in your mail
 box.  In the mean time...bear with us.
 Scott
 List Admin
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 19:45:05 EST
 From: Specilizd  Subject: What garage Tach works with an 81 Toyota 22R ??
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 The tach/dwell meter I"Ve had for years has never worked with my 81 toy 22R.
 ITs an old HeathKit.   What kind of inexpensive garage tach works with this
 ignition system?
 It needs to be accurate so I can tune for Ca. smog tests.
 Steve Keene
 TLCA 5414
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 18:57:36 -0800
 From: Jim Brink  Subject: What garage Tach works with an 81 Toyota 22R ??
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Specilizd wrote:>>  The tach/dwell meter I"Ve had for years has never worked with my 81 toy 22R.> ITs an old HeathKit.   What kind of inexpensive garage tach works with this> ignition system?
 Are you just looking for a tach. or a dwell meter as well? If you just
 want a tachometer, there are several inductive types available that use
 battery power and take the RPM signal from an ignition wire.
 - --
 Jim Brink--Toyota/ASE Certified Technician             '86 Std. Bed 22R
 Manhattan Beach, CA				   32x11.50/15 BFG M/Ts
 ToyTech@off-road.com
 http://geiger.mcl.ucsb.edu/jim/jim.html
 ************************************************************************
 TLCA# 6184/ Friends of the Mojave Road (FOMR)
 ------------------------------
 The views expressed in Toy4x4 are those of the individual authors only.
 Be sure to check out the OFFROAD MAILING LIST.
 Subscription requests can be sent to: offroad-request@off-road.com
 End of Toy4x4 Digest
 ******************************