Toy4x4 Digest          Wed, 14 Jan 98 12:30:02 (HST)  Volume 1 : Issue 655
 Today's Topics:
 22RE Headers
 3Fneeded
 Automatic Trans - Pro/con
                       Bio
 Downey 1.5" rear spacer
 Downey 4 Cyl. Header Install--Suggestion/Tips? (2 msgs)
 Dual Batteries (2 msgs)
 East Coast Headgasket Freebie (2 msgs)
 Food and Shelter AND Wheeling (2 msgs)
 Front shackles for a 4-runner?? (2 msgs)
 Info (4 msgs)
 Knuckle Seal Replacement - 85 4runner (where to find kits??)
 Moab 98' (2 msgs)
 Mudding/pics
 NWOR springs
 oil leak :(
 Power steering
 Repair Manuals (3 msgs)
 Spark Plugs & Wires
 starter problem (4 msgs)
 Sticker info......... (2 msgs)
 Toyota Mailing List
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 ----------------------------------------------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 09:19:13 -0500
 From: Ed.Wong@astramerck.com
 Subject: 22RE Headers
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org
 Speaking of headers, I just replaced mine with another LC Engineering header.
 This means I have a used header avail!
 While I have two other used headers that are not really usable
 - split primary - about 4 inches long
 - cracked O2 boss - - had the early style O2 boss up top
 the third header (the one I just took out) is probably usable
 - - esp for those on a budget.
 Im selling it fer - oh - $20 plus you pay shipping (I guess another
 $20 for that).
 I must remind you that its usable, but not a bolt in affair!
 Two of the pimaries have dents in them from where they
 contacted the sway bar - and I had lowered the sway bar
 by 3/8" to little avail! If you dont have a sway bar - it
 wont be as big a problem.
 I tried to get the connector pipe off, but after 30min of banging
 I whiped out the sawzall and was done in 10 seconds. I cut it
 as neatly as I could, but you *will* have to fabricate/weld
 a connector end pipe on.
 The header was ceramic coated, but after 3 years and 100K
 miles - there is "rust" on the header.
 In my truck (89, Gen1, EFI, 5spd) the connector pipe was two
 short by about 6 inches. I have a 6 inch connector pipe
 which I wil throw in as well - its also ceramic coated, but
 is rusting after all this time. (no - its NOT long enough
 to use a catalytic "test" pipe).
 email me direct.....
 EWong
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 14:00:10 EST
 From: JBHashem  Subject: 3Fneeded
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 I am in need of a 3F engine for my 88 FJ62.  Any help, mucho appreciado.  I
 subscribe to the land cruiser digest, so please respond to me on my e-mail
 address not this digest.  Thanks...John
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 11:09:24 -0500
 From: redline1@juno.com (Kurt m Steiger)
 Subject: Automatic Trans - Pro/con
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 I had an 87 w/ an automatic( gave to my brother) And now have a 92
 extracab, & would give it away if it caught fire.   Love the transfer
 case ratio.  Go w/ the auto for comfort, go w/ the standard for milage &
 future upgrade options.  87 has 154,000 miles no rebuilds, & the 92 has
 107,000 also no rebuilds.  (no clutch to rebuild)
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 09:20:49 -0500
 From: John.Palmer@astramerck.com
 Subject: Bio
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org
 Personal Bio Info
 Name:  John C. Palmer
 City & State:  Chalfont, PA
 (suburb of that great metropolis, Doylestown)
 Country:  USA
 E-mail address:  john_c_palmer @ compuserve.com
 Toyota (s) year & model:  90 4Runner
 Are you a TLCA Member (Y/N/Number?): As soon as I'm done posting this!
 Age:  42
 Occupation:  Computer Consultant
 Marital Status:  Married
 Hobbies:  Computers (duh!), canoeing, biking, Scouting
 How did you find out about the Toyota 4x4 Mailing List:  www.off-road.com
 General info about your vehicle, self, etc.:
 22RE 4Cyl  114K miles
 K&N Air Filter
 Jacobs Energy Pack
 LC Engineering Headers
 Borla Exhaust
 SmittyBilt Bumper Thumper & Nerf Bars
 Bilstein Shocks
 Downey Springs
 ME? - Married 18 years, 2 boys, and friends with a Hummer that finally convinced me that I don't need to have a tricked out
 truck to go 4wheeling.  Oh yeah, and a friend with an '89 4Runner that sells/gives me his old parts when he upgrades, along with
 indispensable advice on what/how to upgrade.  (Still need to put in the Centerforce clutch)
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 10:10:37 -0800
 From: "Farrales, Deo"  Subject: Downey 1.5" rear spacer
 To: "'Toy4x4@tlca.org'"  Hey guys,
 I've got a 2nd gen 4Runner w/ an estimated 1" rear sag.  Will the Downey
 1.5" rear spacer work w/ the stock rear coils?  I want to correct the
 sag but I didn't want to go w/ the 1.5" coils because it would end up
 sitting higher than the front and then I would have to adjust the
 t-bars, etc..  I figured this might work until I can afford the whole
 Downey/Rancho kit.  My only concern was if the spacer would work w/ the
 stock coil.  Also, would the rear sway bar be affected too much by this?
 Please mail me directly as well as to the list (digest mode)
 Thanks,
 Deo Farrales  ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 09:06:40 -0500
 From: Ed.Wong@astramerck.com
 Subject: Downey 4 Cyl. Header Install--Suggestion/Tips?
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org, dfbooth01@worldnet.att.net>> David Booth asks:>> I'm going to help my brother install a>> Downey header in his 1989 4 cyl.>> Automatic 4Runner this Saturday.>> He's going to hook it up to the stock>> catalytic converter with an adapter>> for now, and then replace the rest>> of the exhaust system later.  It looks>> like a fairly straight forward>> job, but I'd like to hear any tips>> or suggestions someone may have.
 Im more used to using LC Engineering headers, but
 these tips may apply.
 Also I have a 22RE with a 5speed manual on an 89 Gen1 body.
 Ive found that the best bolt combo is to use
 stainless steel bolts (in 1/2 or 7/32 size)
 with all metal lock nuts (aka "ovalated").
 These will NOT come loose (and are just as
 hard to undo when the time comes).
 The OEM cat gaskets tend to work better. The
 OEM Cat and pipes have a male/female type fit,
 but the gaskets work well with the aftermarket
 "flat" flanges as well.
 Dont bother trying to get the O2 sensor off
 of the tail pipe. Ive found it much easier
 to disconnect the O2 sensor (on mine the
 connector is under the seat) and work
 on the bolts on the ground.
 Get a few extra studs for the exhaust side
 as well as the requiste taps. They are either
 8mm x 1.25 pitch  or
 10mm x 1.25 pitch (Im pretty sure they are the 10mm)
 The OEM studs have a "shoulder" that sometimes
 casues headers to "hang up". A reamer might be
 handy here (as well as a plastic faced hammer!)
 On non Kalifornia models - there is an "air injector"
 manifold that is "above" the exhaust manifold.
 This bolts tot he manifold using the same studs
 as the manifold. It also bolts to a cross over
 pipe using "fixed" studs. Its a bear to get out
 because you cant move it "back" because the
 crossover studs hang up, and you cant move
 it sideways becuase the exhaust studs hang up
 and you cant take the exhaust studs out becuase
 theres not enuff thread to get two nuts on the
 stud.
 Remove the pipe by *carefully* bending the
 crossover pipe just enuff to get the manifold
 out.
 NOW - fix this harassment permanently!
 Cut off the two studs on the manifold.
 File them down nice and flat.
 Use a center punch and a drill to drill
 and tap appropriate bolt holes (I used 8mm x 1.25,
 but thats to keep the threads on the truck
 fairly consistant). Now this manifold will go in
 *much* easier as there are no studs to hang up, and
 you simply bolt the manifold back together.
 (You will of course need to have bolts that
 match the threads you just cut).
 While at the dealer getting some OEM Catalytic
 gaskers, get the three gaskets you will need for the
 crossover manifold (if you have it) Two go up
 against the manifold and one is for the crossover
 connection.
 Oh - it helps to drop the sway bar from the frame
 (you dont need to take it all the way off)
 Also, somtimes the "heat shield" that covers
 the back side of the upper A Arm gets in the way.
 If the Downey header is stil using the
 "slip fit" type connectors, the DynoMax type of
 "band" clamp may seal better than the U bolt type.
 Racer Wholesale has em for $7 (1-800-886-7223)
 It probably the best bang fer buck mod that
 can be made on the 22RE!
 EWong
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 14 Jan 98 09:50:56 -0800
 From: Mark Hansen  Subject: Downey 4 Cyl. Header Install--Suggestion/Tips?
 To: "Toyota 4x4 list" ,
 Dave,
 I have two suggestions for you.
 1. Soak the header studs/nuts overnight with some penetrating oil to
 encourage them to come off.
 2. Buy new exhaust header bolts from Toyota.
 I had a continual problem with the header nut nearest the firewall coming
 loose.  I went to a Toyota dealer who told me they had stopped using the
 stud and nut arrangement and gone to a bolt instead.  I installed the
 bolt and never again had to re-tighten it.
 Other than that, install and enjoy!  Use the right gasket sealer if it is
 recommended.  The NWOR (satan company) header I installed recommended the
 Red Permatex gasket goop.
 Mark
 '87 4Runner
 - ---------------------------------------------------->Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 22:16:00 +0000>From: David Booth >Subject: Downey 4 Cyl. Header Install--Suggestion/Tips?>To: Toy4x4@tlca.org>>I'm going to help my brother install a Downey header in his 1989 4 cyl.>Automatic 4Runner this Saturday.  He's going to hook it up to the stock>catalytic converter with an adapter for now, and then replace the rest>of the exhaust system later.  It looks like a fairly straight forward>job, but I'd like to hear any tips or suggestions someone may have.>>Thanks again.  This page is great.>>Dave
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 10:01:46 -0800
 From: "Nate & Nicole Mutch"  Subject: Dual Batteries
 To: "Toyota mailing list"  If you're thinking of hooking up a dual battery set-up ,two things you
 want to consider. first everyone so far has talked about using an
 isolator.while an isolator will do the job, it is inefficient as it
 incorporates diodes, leading to two problems, voltage drop and heat, as
 evidenced by their finned design. having done some tests with these devices,
 the maximum amperage draw our team could acheive was around 20 amps. the
 better way to set up is with a solenoid switch,using an ignition hot lead
 (in other words it switches on when you start your engine). our results with
 this showed that we could draw 50-60 amps thru the solenoid, limited only by
 variables such as alternator output and wire gauge. this is deffinitely the
 better way to go if you want a battery designated for accessories. the other
 method to wire dual batteries is in parralell (12v.). this will give you
 twice as much reserve capacity!
 but the batteries will drain together, so no back-up.Lastly if you are
 looking for the ultimate deep-cycle set-up, you would want to use two 6 v.
 batteries in series(to make 12v).a secondary set-up like this would allow
 you to power your stereo all day long without missing a beat, leave high
 powered lights on while you set up camp, without the engine running.
 with whatever system you choose to use never under gauge your wiring and
 never over look your ground circuit and connections
 2 more amps worth, Nate
 '87 4-runner
 5.29 gears,detroit rear,tru-trac front
 33" BFG's
 R.V.Technician
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 19:32:08 -0000
 From: runars@isbank.is
 Subject: Dual Batteries
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Why a twin 6 volt setup for deep cycling?
 Runar.> -----Original Message-----> From:	Nate & Nicole Mutch [SMTP:nmutch@cnx.net]> Sent:	Wednesday, January 14, 1998 6:02 PM> To:	Toy4x4@tlca.org> Subject:	Dual Batteries>>     If you're thinking of hooking up a dual battery set-up ,two things> you> want to consider. first everyone so far has talked about using an> isolator.while an isolator will do the job, it is inefficient as it> incorporates diodes, leading to two problems, voltage drop and heat,> as> evidenced by their finned design. having done some tests with these> devices,> the maximum amperage draw our team could acheive was around 20 amps.> the> better way to set up is with a solenoid switch,using an ignition hot> lead> (in other words it switches on when you start your engine). our> results with> this showed that we could draw 50-60 amps thru the solenoid, limited> only by> variables such as alternator output and wire gauge. this is> deffinitely the> better way to go if you want a battery designated for accessories. the> other> method to wire dual batteries is in parralell (12v.). this will give> you> twice as much reserve capacity!> but the batteries will drain together, so no back-up.Lastly if you are> looking for the ultimate deep-cycle set-up, you would want to use two> 6 v.> batteries in series(to make 12v).a secondary set-up like this would> allow> you to power your stereo all day long without missing a beat, leave> high> powered lights on while you set up camp, without the engine running.>     with whatever system you choose to use never under gauge your> wiring and> never over look your ground circuit and connections>             2 more amps worth, Nate> '87 4-runner> 5.29 gears,detroit rear,tru-trac front> 33" BFG's> R.V.Technician
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 07:55:09 -0500
 From: "Stershic, Robert"  Subject: East Coast Headgasket Freebie
 To: "'Toyota'"  Hey East Coasters,
 I was wondering if any of you East Coast guys got the mailing from
 Rosner Toyota in Fredericksburg, VA.  Basically it says that you qualify
 for the headgasket replacement by Toyota and if you bring your truck
 there they will throw in a timing belt replacement, a $250 value, for
 FREE!!!  Sounds like a great deal.
 I live in Annapolis, MD a good 90 miles away, but when I talked to them
 they said that they will give me a free loaner car for as long as it
 takes. I have an '89 with 73K on it so I wasn't real worried about it,
 though they said the offer is good all year.   I was wondering who else
 got this mailing and what you think about it.  Sounds good to me.
 Also, what other work should I have done while its in there??
 Thanks for the info,  Rob
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 11:48:12 -0800
 From: Scott Wilson  Subject: East Coast Headgasket Freebie
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Stershic, Robert wrote:
 it says that you qualify> for the headgasket replacement by Toyota and if you bring your truck> there they will throw in a timing belt replacement, a $250 value, for> FREE!!!  Sounds like a great deal.> Also, what other work should I have done while its in there??
 I don't have the paperwork in front of me...here a list of what I'm
 having done (what I can remember off the top of my head)
 Timing (make sure they also replace the idler and tensioner)
 Honing the cylinders
 Rings & bearings
 Valve job
 New belts & hoses
 I know I'm having more done...just can't remember it all.  If your
 really curious you can e-mail me direct, and I'll check the work order
 when I get home tonight.
 Scott
 - --
 _____
 /_/_|_\__       Scott Wilson TLCA #5261  CA4WDC #13393
 | _     _ :     88 4Runner SR5 V6
 */_\---/_\'     Santa Clara, CA
 (_)   (_)      http://www.off-road.com/~swilson
 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 09:04:40 -0500
 From: "Eli Madden"  Subject: Food and Shelter AND Wheeling
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org
 Chris Geiger wrote->It's allways the same question food and shelter or wheeling?
 It dosn't have to be either or. You can sleep in the back of your truck! ;-)
 Eli
 emadden@inacom-vt.com
 '83 SR5 Shortbed 4x4
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 14 Jan 98 11:40:00 -0500
 From: Rosenberger Bud  Subject: Food and Shelter AND Wheeling
 To: "mail@UUCP {Toy4x4@tlca.org}"  Chris Geiger wrote->It's allways the same question food and shelter or wheeling?
 Then Eli Madden wrote->It dosn't have to be either or. You can sleep in the back of your truck!
 ;-)
 Yeah but the wife and 9 kids get real crabby after about 10 minutes!
 Even an hour trip in our 15 passenger van can get hairy...  :)
 Bud R
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 10:07:24 EST
 From: REDEWS2  Subject: Front shackles for a 4-runner??
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 I own an 85 4-runner with a 3inch pro comp suspension lift.  I run 32's on
 15x8 inch rims.  My front tires still do a little rubbing while the wheels
 turned when 4-wheeling.   What I need is an extra inch of lift.  What i dont
 want to do is instll a body lift, install an new suspension lift, or spend a
 lot of money.  Does anyone make a lift shackle for the front of my truck and
 if so about how much $$ are we talking.  Any other suggestions for an added
 inch up front would be appreciated.   Oh by the way I have allready pounded
 the inside of the front fender wall with a real big hammer (which did help a
 bit)
 Robert (Redews@aol.com)
 85 4-runner, 3inch suspension lift, Superwinch, 32's, smittybuilt front and
 rear.
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 15:44:42 -0000
 From: runars@isbank.is
 Subject: Front shackles for a 4-runner??
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Cut into your front fenderwall, then operate the big hammer, and then
 close the cut by rewelding it in the new shape.
 Or, move your axle and inch forward.
 With an inch more lift, the tires will keep on rubbing, it will just
 take an inch more of suspension travel to let them rub....
 Runar.> -----Original Message-----> From:	REDEWS2 [SMTP:REDEWS2@aol.com]> Sent:	Wednesday, January 14, 1998 3:07 PM> To:	Toy4x4@tlca.org> Subject:	Front shackles for a 4-runner??>> I own an 85 4-runner with a 3inch pro comp suspension lift.  I run> 32's on> 15x8 inch rims.  My front tires still do a little rubbing while the> wheels> turned when 4-wheeling.   What I need is an extra inch of lift.  What> i dont> want to do is instll a body lift, install an new suspension lift, or> spend a> lot of money.  Does anyone make a lift shackle for the front of my> truck and> if so about how much $$ are we talking.  Any other suggestions for an> added> inch up front would be appreciated.   Oh by the way I have allready> pounded> the inside of the front fender wall with a real big hammer (which did> help a> bit)>> Robert (Redews@aol.com)>> 85 4-runner, 3inch suspension lift, Superwinch, 32's, smittybuilt> front and> rear.
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 10:16:53 -0500
 From: Agustinus Gunawan  Subject: Info
 To: "'Toy4x4@tlca.org'"  I mean the 2nd gen and up
 His was 90 something so it must be the 2nd gen
 - -----Original Message-----
 From:	Eric Johnson [SMTP:ej@off-road.com]> I never seen an 4 cylinder SR5 4runner before yours was the first.
 Lots of 1st-gen 4runners were SR5 with 4cyl.
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 05:30:13 -1000 (HST)
 From: Eric Johnson  Subject: Info
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 On Wed, 14 Jan 1998, Agustinus Gunawan wrote:>>>> I never seen an 4 cylinder SR5 4runner before yours was the first.>>> Lots of 1st-gen 4runners were SR5 with 4cyl.>> I mean the 2nd gen and up> His was 90 something so it must be the 2nd gen
 no, tim said he had an '89. Though now that I read his message again, it
 sure does sound like he says he's got an ARB diff in the front... Come on
 tim, let us know whats going on! :)
 ej@off-road.com   http://www.off-road.com/~ej
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 05:32:16 -1000 (HST)
 From: Eric Johnson  Subject: Info
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 check out my home page for details on the 4x4 northwest mail list.
 How'd you get an ARB in the front?
 ej@off-road.com   http://www.off-road.com/~ej
 On Tue, 13 Jan 1998, Tim Diens wrote:>> Name: Tim Diens>> City & State: Ellensburg, Wa>> Country: USA>> E-mail address: dienst@eburg.com>> Toyota (s) year & model: 89 4-runner SR5 22r>> Are you a TLCA Member (Y/N/Number?): N>> Age: 21>> Occupation: Student>> Marital Status: Single>> Hobbies: wheeling in the snow, trail riding, some mud bogs, show and shines>> How did you find out about the Toyota 4x4 Mailing List: on the internet>> General info about your vehicle, self, etc.: I own a 1989-runner SR5.  I> bought it in 1993 with 12,000 miles on it from an older couple who used it> only to go skiing.  I have done many upgrades to it,  mostly by myself:> 3in Rancho suspension> 32" Goodyear M/T> 4:88:1 ring & Pinion set front and rear> Arb in front w/ detroit locker in rear> On board air> LC engineering 200 hp stage M-^V5 Pro Engine w/ 45mm pro carburetor kit> LC engineering 4wd pro headers> K&N oil cooler and air filter>> ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 05:37:37 -1000 (HST)
 From: Eric Johnson  Subject: Info
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 whoops, that was intended to be private. sorry folks :)
 ej@off-road.com   http://www.off-road.com/~ej
 On Wed, 14 Jan 1998, Eric Johnson wrote:> check out my home page for details on the 4x4 northwest mail list.
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 14 Jan 98 10:20:35 -0600
 From: bwiencek@kcnet.com
 Subject: Knuckle Seal Replacement - 85 4runner (where to find kits??)
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org>yeah, ya gotta take it all apart but it doesn't take that long.  I did it>after work one evening.>> My front steering knuckle seals are leaking grease pretty seriously.>> Also, noticed moisture in grease during last wheel bearing replacement.
 On a related note, does anyone know of a seal 'kit' that is fairly
 inexpensive?  I know NWOR has one, but for obvious reasons I'm not ordering
 from them... I'm going to be doing f&r r&p's this summer, or as soon as
 either poowertrax releases their electric lockers, or  I get tired of waiting
 for them and just put in detroits.  I figure the knuckles could use to be
 re-sealed at the same time, since I'll have it all apart.
 - - Brian
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 11:55:53 -0800
 From: "Bob Williams"  Subject: Moab 98'
 To:  Dave Booth wrote:>It's nearly time for registration for the 1998 Red Rock Four Wheeler's
 Annual Easter>Safari
 (snip)>I'm planning on attending this year.
 (snip)>It would be great to meet up with people on this page
 I plan to be there, Dave.  The past two years I've spent in a campground
 north of town, hot showers, and a lot less expensive than the hotels, $100
 a day.  Of course it would be less expensive to share a room too.  I'll
 find out the name of the place where I camped and post it tomorrow.  The
 good places fill up fast.  It would be great to get a group together and
 run with Toyotas (especially if someone in the group knew the trails in the
 area well).   I ran the trails with some guys from Grand Junction last
 year, and Marlin was there the last couple of days too.  Maybe Chris Geiger
 would be willing to put together a list like he did for the Rubicon trip
 this coming July.
 Bob Williams, Las Vegas, NV
 94 4Runner SR5, 22RE, 5Spd, 4" Procomp lift,
 4.88's, lockers, Marlin Dual T-case #61 33"BFG's
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 01:49:04 -0800
 From: Chris Geiger  Subject: Moab 98'
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Yes, I would be happy to do a page for this but I don't think I will be able
 togo so I have not been following the moab thread. If someone could send me the
 info and list of trucks I can have a page up tonight.
 Chris Geiger 93 4Runner http://geiger.mcl.ucsb.edu/offroad.html>  Maybe Chris Geiger> would be willing to put together a list like he did for the Rubicon trip> this coming July.>> Bob Williams, Las Vegas, NV
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 10:29:17 -0500 (EST)
 From: "Dr. Karl Bellve"  Subject: Mudding/pics
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 On Tue, 13 Jan 1998, penny wrote:> Just added a few pics to my page, check em out!  Went wheeling all day> saturday with> some friends with fo*ds, these guys have a "go for it attitude" for sure.> Lady luck was with me all day, my toy was the only 4x4 that didnt get stuck> :) I even got to rescue the biggest truck with us 79 bronco on 38.5s his> headlights were under water! it was dark and he needed help quickly (cab> was filling up fast) so i couldnt get a shot of it :(> My toyota never stops amazing me...the first few pics of the day are under> the "blue oval" link.> Jimmy 82Toy4x4 L.B.> purnrgy@quancon.com> http://www.geocities.com/baja/6397/> Nice pics but that advertising really was anoying.
 Cheers,
 Karl Bellve, Ph.D.
 Biomedical Imaging Group
 University of Massachusetts
 WWW  : http://molmed.ummed.edu/~kdb/
 Email: kdb@molmed.ummed.edu
 Phone: (508) 856-3785
 Fax  : (508) 856-1840
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 14:22:49 -0800
 From: Jason Wilson  Subject: NWOR springs
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Can anyone tell me if the 3.5" front springs from Northwest Off-Road
 Specialties for the solid axle are any good.  I right now I have 3.5" Rough
 Country springs, and they're so stiff that I hardly have any flex.  I
 called Alcan Springs, and they quoted me $145 per spring, and NWOR springs
 are only $139.95 for a pair in their catalog.  I also checked on the price
 of the Old Man Emu springs, and they run around $156 per spring.
 Jason Wilson
 '85 X-cab, 3.5" suspension lift, 33" Thornbirds, and other goodies.
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 13:00:35 -0000
 From: runars@isbank.is
 Subject: oil leak :(
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Hey, look at the bright sides mate.
 At least your front end want rust from now.....
 Runar.> -----Original Message-----> From:	Eric Johnson [SMTP:ej@blarg.net]> Sent:	Wednesday, January 14, 1998 6:01 AM> To:	Toy4x4@tlca.org> Subject:	oil leak :(>> I seem to have developed an oil leak on the front of my 22RE. I've> basically got oil all over the front of the engine, primarily on the> timing> chain cover, and it has leaked down onto the front diff, steering> stabilizer, etc.>> Any ideas how to narrow this down? Who are the usual suspects? I might> go> get the engine steam cleaned to see if I can find the leak easier.> theres> 155000 miles on the clock.  I had the timing chain and head gasket> replaced> about 13 months ago -- its possible that I've had a slow leak since> then,> but I've only recently started to notice lower oil levels on the> dipstick> between oil changes.>> At least maybe this means I'm not blowing oil past the rings or valve> seals...>> Any help or ideas would be appreciated.> -->> - ej@blarg.net>> ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 11:43:57 -0500
 From: redline1@juno.com (Kurt m Steiger)
 Subject: Power steering
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org
 Hey all I have a 92 extra (all stock), and want to install power steering
 to a truck that came w/out it.  what do i need to do out of the ordinary.
 I know about the brackets/pump/belt, but wonder if the gear box needs
 to be swapped.  Also what other than a toy truck can i scavage the parts
 from.
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 09:53:00 -0800
 From: "Smith, Patrick S."  Subject: Repair Manuals
 To: Toyota 4x4 Listserver  What's the preferred manual for doing repairs?  As they're readily
 available I've used Haynes manuals for five different vehicles in the
 past (non Toy's) and have grown to hate them (crappy pictures, missed or
 poorly described steps on many procedures, "Where's Waldo" type indexes
 (It's not a spare tire, it's a reserve tyre and it's stored near the
 windscreen reservoir bottle beneath the bonnet)  What the ??????).
 I haven't used a Chilton manual for quite some time but there seems to
 be an awful lot of models covered in one volume.   I've seen a few
 messages mentioning the actual Toyota factory manuals, how do these
 compare?  Cost?  Get them from a dealer?
 Thanks in advance, I'd like to pick one up before buying a truck this
 spring.
 Patrick Smith
 '96 Nike Air's (No manual required)
 * Anyone selling or planning to sell an '84 or '85 Xtra Cab in the
 Vancouver, BC area feel free to contact me:
 Pssmith@epdiv1.env.gov.bc.ca
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 19:44:17 -0000
 From: runars@isbank.is
 Subject: Repair Manuals
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 I just bought an engine manual from Scott Tate.
 I had been told that they would be very expensive, but it proved itself
 to be otherwise.
 I haven't recived it so far, but I did get to peek into one few months
 ago, and I was impressed.  Not only do the have a clear picture of your
 excact model, they also tell you how to find problems.
 Runar.> -----Original Message-----> From:	Smith, Patrick S. [SMTP:Pssmith@epdiv1.env.gov.bc.ca]> Sent:	Wednesday, January 14, 1998 5:53 PM> To:	Toy4x4@tlca.org> Subject:	Repair Manuals>> What's the preferred manual for doing repairs?  As they're readily> available I've used Haynes manuals for five different vehicles in the> past (non Toy's) and have grown to hate them (crappy pictures, missed> or> poorly described steps on many procedures, "Where's Waldo" type> indexes> (It's not a spare tire, it's a reserve tyre and it's stored near the> windscreen reservoir bottle beneath the bonnet)  What the ??????).> I haven't used a Chilton manual for quite some time but there seems to> be an awful lot of models covered in one volume.   I've seen a few> messages mentioning the actual Toyota factory manuals, how do these> compare?  Cost?  Get them from a dealer?>> Thanks in advance, I'd like to pick one up before buying a truck this> spring.>> Patrick Smith> '96 Nike Air's (No manual required)>> * Anyone selling or planning to sell an '84 or '85 Xtra Cab in the> Vancouver, BC area feel free to contact me:> Pssmith@epdiv1.env.gov.bc.ca
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 01:36:31 -0800
 From: Chris Geiger  Subject: Repair Manuals
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 I have a set (one for body and one for engine) for my truck and they
 are the best I have seen. For doing electrical work they cant be beat.
 If the manual says the wire you are looking for is white with green then
 that's what color the wire is every time (for me anyway) The only
 problem is they call for special tools all the time, so I like to use
 hayys manual find how to do things with out all the special tool
 Chris Geiger 93 4Runner http://geiger.mcl.ucsb.edu/offroad.html
 Smith, Patrick S. wrote:> What's the preferred manual for doing repairs?  As they're readily> available
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 11:51:55 -0600 (CST)
 From: Jonathan Miller  Subject: Spark Plugs & Wires
 To: Toyota 4X4 List  I have read many of the back issues of the digest getting different
 opinions on plugs and wire sets.  I just bought a set of Accel wires which
 seem ok ... but something I was concerned about was the fact that the
 point where the boot meets the wire (both at the plug and at the coil) is
 NOT sealed.
 I have read various waterproofing guides that state you should make sure
 your plug wires are sealed at this point.  Anybody have experience with
 this?  Is being sealed that important ... I don't plan to run in water
 that high anytime soon.
 I am planning to get NGK or Nippodenso plugs.  Have tried Splitfires and I
 didn't see any increase ... as many of you didn't.
 Any comments and/or suggestions appreciated.
 Jonathan Miller
 ======================
 89 Toy Xcab 4X4
 35" BFG Mud T/A's
 4" ProComp 3" Body Lift
 =======================
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 13:36:25 -0000
 From: runars@isbank.is
 Subject: starter problem
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 I removed my started (I overheated it) few months ago, and I blessed
 that bodylift a lot.  Can't figure out how to do it without it....
 Runar.> -----Original Message-----> From:	Kconnoll [SMTP:Kconnoll@aol.com]> Sent:	Wednesday, January 14, 1998 6:11 AM> To:	Toy4x4@tlca.org> Subject:	starter problem>>      The other day my friend and I were driving around in a snow> covered> parking lot, and after going around a corner pretty hard, the engine> started> making weird noises.  The tach started going really high, but the> engine> clearly wasn't going nearly as fast as indicated (fluctuating rapidly> from> 2000-6500rpm).>      We shut the engine off, only to find that it wouldn't turn over.> We then> push started it and  I drove home.  When I got the time to inspect it> more> carefully I found that I could hear the solonoid click, but the> starter> wouldn't turn.>      I had the battery checked and it was low, so I put it on the> trickle> charger while I hooked up the battery from my dads car to make sure it> wasn't> the battery- the solenoid still just clicked, and the starter did> nothing.  I> checked the wiring and everything looked allright except for one wire> coming> off the solenoid (with a female type connector).  This wire is> seperate from> the wires going into the starter.  I couldn't find where it's supposed> to go,> or even what purpose it serves.  I'm not even sure if this is causing> my> problem.>      Does anyone have any ideas as to what might be wrong, or any> similiar> experiences?   Any tips on removing the starter?(I can easily get> everything> other than the top bolt un-done, but I can't reach the top bolt with> my> wrenches.  I can reach up from underneath and touch the bolt, though.)>      Whatever help you give would be appreciated,   Kevin Connolly>> 79 4x4 pickup, 20r engine
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 08:28:43 -0800
 From: Barney McNamara  Subject: starter problem
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org,  Kevin wrote:>The other day my friend and I were driving around in a snow covered>parking lot, and after going around a corner pretty hard, the engine started>making weird noises.  The tach started going really high, but the engine>clearly wasn't going nearly as fast as indicated (fluctuating rapidly from>2000-6500rpm).
 This sounds like a loose ground problem. Could be the battery is not mounted
 tightly, and the fast turn rocked it and caused ground wire to come loose.>We shut the engine off, only to find that it wouldn't turn over.  We then>push started it and  I drove home.  When I got the time to inspect it more>carefully I found that I could hear the solonoid click, but the starter>wouldn't turn.
 This sounds like it could be a bad ground from battery to chassis, a bad
 positive connection between the battery and the starter, or the brushes
 inside the starter.>I had the battery checked and it was low, so I put it on the trickle>charger while I hooked up the battery from my dads car to make sure it wasn't>the battery- the solenoid still just clicked, and the starter did nothing.  I>checked the wiring and everything looked allright except for one wire coming>off the solenoid (with a female type connector).  This wire is seperate from>the wires going into the starter.  I couldn't find where it's supposed to go,>or even what purpose it serves.  I'm not even sure if this is causing my>problem.
 My starter has only two wires. A small one that is controlled by the ignition
 switch to activate the starter, and a fat one direct to the battery to
 power the starter motor. I don't know which one you are referring to.>Does anyone have any ideas as to what might be wrong, or any similiar>experiences?
 See above, I suspect a loose ground connection on the battery terminal.>   Any tips on removing the starter?(I can easily get everything>other than the top bolt un-done, but I can't reach the top bolt with my>wrenches.  I can reach up from underneath and touch the bolt, though.)
 You need a ratchet and an extension to reach in to get the top bolt from
 the bottom.
 ______________________________________________________________
 Barney McNamara              JENNY - 83 Toyota Short Bed
 ( barney@flowpoint.com )     stock 22R motor ; 3" body lift
 Santa Cruz, Ca.              8" alloy rims; 31" BFG A/Ts
 homepage: http://www.scruz.net/~barneym/barnhome.htm
 ______________________________________________________________
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 11:15:54 -0600
 From: John Vargas  Subject: starter problem
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Well i carry a little brass (something dont know what it is called, ill
 find out). A toy mechanic once told me that on most starters this little
 brass piece was all that needed to be replaced in the starter. As it
 usually wore out and it was real easy to swap out. Removing a starter from
 a toy truck is a real PITA. This piece can be replaced on the vehicle. And
 they have worked everytime they replaced it.  I apoligize for being more
 explicit as i have not yet replaced my starter. But i carry this little
 brass piece and i figure they day my starter quits ill find this little
 piece and replace it as the first measure.
 I'll try to find out exactly where this brass L-shaped piece fits. And find
 out the name of the brass fitting if people are interested.
 John
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 19:28:36 -0000
 From: runars@isbank.is
 Subject: starter problem
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 I think our friend here is talking about the brushes, like the ones in
 the alternator.
 Runar.> -----Original Message-----> From:	John Vargas [SMTP:jvargus@austin.ibm.com]> Sent:	Wednesday, January 14, 1998 5:16 PM> To:	Toy4x4@tlca.org> Subject:	Re: starter problem>> Well i carry a little brass (something dont know what it is called,> ill> find out). A toy mechanic once told me that on most starters this> little> brass piece was all that needed to be replaced in the starter. As it> usually wore out and it was real easy to swap out. Removing a starter> from> a toy truck is a real PITA. This piece can be replaced on the vehicle.> And> they have worked everytime they replaced it.  I apoligize for being> more> explicit as i have not yet replaced my starter. But i carry this> little> brass piece and i figure they day my starter quits ill find this> little> piece and replace it as the first measure.> I'll try to find out exactly where this brass L-shaped piece fits. And> find> out the name of the brass fitting if people are interested.>> John> ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 16:44:40 -0500
 From: Rob Ditusa  Subject: Sticker info.........
 To: Toy4x4@off-road.com
 Hey all,
 Hope everyone's holidays were OK. Where did the sticker design end
 up???? Is it still a possibility??? Hate to maybe bring up a sore subject,
 but I think it's a cool idea.
 RD
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 13:53:05 -0800
 From: Scott Wilson  Subject: Sticker info.........
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Rob Ditusa wrote:>      Hope everyone's holidays were OK. Where did the sticker design end> up???? Is it still a possibility??? Hate to maybe bring up a sore subject,> but I think it's a cool idea.
 You're welcome to organize it....but I'm not getting involved.
 I think I even still have all the old candidates to give you.
 Scott
 - --
 _____
 /_/_|_\__       Scott Wilson TLCA #5261  CA4WDC #13393
 | _     _ :     88 4Runner SR5 V6
 */_\---/_\'     Santa Clara, CA
 (_)   (_)      http://www.off-road.com/~swilson
 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 16:05:16 EST
 From: ScottsAS1  Subject: Toyota Mailing List
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org
 Is this list down or did I somehow get knocked off of it?  I haven't received
 any posts in two months.  Please e-mail me direct, in case I did get knocked
 off.  How do I get back on?
 Matt Dewalt
 91 4Runner
 ------------------------------
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