Toy4x4 Digest Fri, 9 Jan 98 00:30:03 (HST) Volume 1 : Issue 644
Today's Topics:
"Special Policy Adjustment Headgasket Warranty Extension" (3 msgs)
2 Piece adapter
3.4L Headers
4Runner rear shocks
agif & shocks
ARE MY HUBS LOCKED...OR NOT? (4 msgs)
BFG Mud Terrain vs. Super Swamper TSL
Bio
bio and looking for wheeling pals
Cable locker
front brakes
Lifting seats
None
poor gas milage
Putting in 4wd w/o locking hubs (2 msgs)
Roof consoles
Studded Snow Tires
stuff for sale
T-bars and ride height (2 msgs)
Timing Chain Cover Stuck (4 msgs)
Toe-in is wacked out (3 msgs)
Toy V6 clutches
TRD cam for 22RE
What basic accesories are needed to use a HiLift as a winch ??
Whining T-Case--More Info.
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 21:18:51 -0700 (MST)
From: dicknu@usa.net
Subject: "Special Policy Adjustment Headgasket Warranty Extension"
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Hi everybody,
Just got my "Warranty Extension" in the mail today. It's dated December,
1997. It arrived on Jan 8, 1998. The warranty talks about a period of 8 years
or 100 000 miles which ever occurs first.
Since my truck is a 1990 and has 96000 miles on it, I am asking for advice
on what to do in insure that I am able to get the head gasket replaced if I
need it. I have no definite indications of head gasket troubles, but there
is some use of oil and minor loss of coolant. Power is down, but, after all,
it has 96k on it.
Any advice on what my approach to Toyota motors should be?
Thanks for listening!
- -- Dick Nuttall 11459 Irma Drive Northglenn CO 80233-2169
303.452.3089 USA
http://www.geocities.com/Athens/1835 mailto:dicknu@usa.net
http://super.zippo.com/~dicknu mailto:dickn@super.zippo.com
- ---------------------
"But sentiment is for middle age, just as romance is for youth.
Old age, like war, has colder feelings; it is, after all, a struggle to
the death!" Colonel Mayor in THE SHADOW KNOWS by Terry Bisson.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 23:57:29 -0600
From: breeze@cysource.com (Jeffrey Delzer)
Subject: "Special Policy Adjustment Headgasket Warranty Extension"
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
dicknu@usa.net wrote:>> Hi everybody,>> Just got my "Warranty Extension" in the mail today. It's dated December,> 1997. It arrived on Jan 8, 1998. The warranty talks about a period of 8 years> or 100 000 miles which ever occurs first.
I wonder how I can get on the mailing for a letter like that, or if I
even need the letter to get the work done, if/when it becomes necessary.
I've moved half a dozen times since I bought my truck new. I doubt
Toyota knows where to find me.
Jeff Delzer
'94 SR5 V6 XtraCab
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 23:56:26 -0800
From: Scott Wilson Subject: "Special Policy Adjustment Headgasket Warranty Extension"
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Jeffrey Delzer wrote:>> Just got my "Warranty Extension" in the mail today. It's dated December,>> 1997. It arrived on Jan 8, 1998. The warranty talks about a period of 8 years>> or 100 000 miles which ever occurs first.>> I wonder how I can get on the mailing for a letter like that, or if I> even need the letter to get the work done, if/when it becomes necessary.> I've moved half a dozen times since I bought my truck new. I doubt> Toyota knows where to find me.
Jeff, you DON'T want the letter. If you're under 100K and you bring it
in with or without the letter they'll take care of you. IF you're OVER
100k...like me...140K, AND you have NOT recieved the letter...it's up to
the service manager at the dealership to decide whether or not they'll
take care of you. (I'd bet money they always, take care of
you...afterall Toyota is fitting the bill).
I also got my letter just today...but that's because I'm having my
headgasket done as we speak. It hadn't gone yet...but I had a lot of
other stuff I wanted to have done (ie- H2O pump, idler, tensioner, valve
adj., etc.) so I hopped on down to the Toy dealer. I was very upfront
with the service writter...told him that I knew about the
warrenty...hadn't recieved my letter...and was hoping they'd do it as
preventive maintenance 'cause I wanted some other work done, and I could
save money if they did the gasket.
They said ok, so it's being done right now. I stopped by today to grab
something outta the truck and engine is missing! :-) so I guess it's
at the machine shop today.
BTW...the warrenty is 8 years 100k miles....AND if you're over the
8/100k, you get one year warrenty from the date of the letter.
Scott
- --
_____
/_/_|_\__ Scott Wilson
| _ _ : Santa Clara, CA
*/_\---/_\' http://www.off-road.com/~swilson
(_) (_)
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 22:15:55 -0500
From: Sheldon Gardner Subject: 2 Piece adapter
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Wilbur call Downey.
Do it quick cus I'm going out on Sunday and taking it with me to see if I can pawn it
off. Reminds me of an Andy Griffith episode..
anyone watch that?
CALL THE MAN!!!!! ;-)
Sheldon
sgard@flnet.com
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 17:00:38 -0600
From: "Steve C." Subject: 3.4L Headers
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Robert Koss wrote:>> Hi - has anyone had any experience installing Eldebrock's 3.4L header on a> Tacoma? I've heard a few good things about them but wanted more opinions> of any and all performance /mileage increases/decreases.
I did it myself
It was a nasty chore...well worth the benefits tho.
Kick 350 all day long...power from 4k til past red.
Mileage went up if I keep my foot out of it.
- --
Steve Capuano 1996 Tacoma ext cab V6 4X4
capuano@hypercon.com 31x10.50x15 Wrangler RT/S
Houston, Texas Rear LockRight K&N filter
Edelbrock headers
NRA lifetime member Dynomax 2.5" cat back
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 19:07:33 -0800
From: Kenneth Fong Subject: 4Runner rear shocks
To: Toyota 4x4 List This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
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Just got the Downey 1.5" rear coils (#48231-R90)
for my truck.
It calls for Rancho #5179 or Doetsch-Tech #8250
shocks.
I want to try KYBs.
Does anyone have the cross-reference equivilent to
KYBs or other brands?
I don't want to be limited to those two.
Thanks
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fn: Kenneth Fong
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org: San Francisco State University
email;internet: stealth@sfsu.edu
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 09 Jan 1998 08:46:07 -0800
From: Chris Geiger Subject: agif & shocks
To: Kenneth Fong , Toy4x4@tlca.org
Yes that is a perfict fit for use with the longer springs. I spent sevral
hours making sure it was going to be the right shock. They only cost about $40
and I like them better than the ranchos. You will need to drill out the lower
hole as these shocks have a smaller hole then the 3/4" lower hole that Toyota
uses. I have not found any shock that are longer than stock that have the
correct lower hole size. You can't use the rubber from the toyota shock
eather. I purchased a drill bit that was 3/4" (cost about $25) I would be
happy to loan you mine when Jay K. returns it.
Chris Geiger 93 4Runner http://geiger.mcl.ucsb.edu/offroad.html
Kenneth Fong wrote:> Hi Chris.> Hope you enjoyed the holidays.> That's a nice agif you made with my truck taking> the plung into the mud hole.>> I was also wondering if the KG5561 shocks you have> on the rear are the ones that I should use. I> just got the Downey 1.5" springs. Everything else> being stock.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 18:08:05 -0600
From: breeze@cysource.com (Jeffrey Delzer)
Subject: ARE MY HUBS LOCKED...OR NOT?
To: Jeffrey Delzer Chris Geiger wrote:>> Trucks shipped with ADD have live hubs> that are locked all the time. The only way to unlock them is to remove the> hubs you have and replace them with manual hubs. (about $130 form warn)> If you do it will cut down on driveshaft and front differental wear and> increase gas mileage by about 1MPG.
Considering the high cost, time and effort involved versus the miniscule
benefit gained, I'm amazed at the number of people who've said that
they've changed from ADD to manuals. For the way I use my truck, ADD
hubs are worth their weight in gold.
Jeff Delzer
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 18:15:56 -0600 (CST)
From: "Bruce Burden" Subject: ARE MY HUBS LOCKED...OR NOT?
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org>> Considering the high cost, time and effort involved versus the miniscule> benefit gained, I'm amazed at the number of people who've said that> they've changed from ADD to manuals. For the way I use my truck, ADD> 1) You can exercise the front drive line with manual hubs.
Very important for those of us who don't use 4x4 every
day. :-)
2) High travel lifts require locking hubs, or a lot of
parts replacement.
3) Lockers really appreciate locking hubs.
4) You never wonder if the front axle is pulling.
For me, 1 and 4 were of the greatest importance in looking for a
truck with manual hubs. I can make sure that the front drive
shaft moves once a month by simply locking in the hubs, and if
I am going somewhere to play, I simply lock the hubs in to start
with, and use 4x4 as needed/ground surface permits.
But, yeah, to change them, it would need to be 2 or 3
to go to the trouble. Unless you have GM "maybe locks" or
Ford "unlock-on-the-fly" systems :-)
Bruce
- --
- -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bruce Burden bruceb@isd.tandem.com Tandem Computers Inc.
512-432-8944 Network Verification 14231 Tandem Blvd.
Auto answer(4 rings) Austin, TX 78726
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 14:16:01 -1000 (HST)
From: Eric Johnson Subject: ARE MY HUBS LOCKED...OR NOT?
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
On Thu, 8 Jan 1998, Jeffrey Delzer wrote:> Chris Geiger wrote:>>>> Trucks shipped with ADD have live hubs>> that are locked all the time. The only way to unlock them is to remove the>> hubs you have and replace them with manual hubs. (about $130 form warn)>> If you do it will cut down on driveshaft and front differental wear and>> increase gas mileage by about 1MPG.>> Considering the high cost, time and effort involved versus the miniscule> benefit gained, I'm amazed at the number of people who've said that> they've changed from ADD to manuals. For the way I use my truck, ADD> hubs are worth their weight in gold.
Thats the nice thing about a manual hub conversion - you can still use
ADD with it, unless you disable ADD. When the hubs are locked, you're set
up just like the stock ADD drive plates. but when you're unlocked, you're
not tearing up your CVs, and getting better mileage. It doesn't have to
be expensive or time consuming either - a pair of stock hubs costs $50-100
from a junkyard, and the
install is a breeze.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 09 Jan 1998 06:43:19 -0800
From: Chris Geiger Subject: ARE MY HUBS LOCKED...OR NOT?
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org> Considering the high cost, time and effort involved versus the miniscule> benefit gained, I'm amazed at the number of people who've said that> they've changed from ADD to manuals. For the way I use my truck, ADD> hubs are worth their weight in gold.> If you have a limited slip in the front you must install manual hubs or you
willburn up the LSD because the right side half shaft still spins in the front
diff,
even in 2wd. If you have a locker in the front diff than the ADD is rendered
useless, you must install manual hubs or the front drive shaft spins along with
both front half shafts. For open front diffs there is little benefit.
Chris Geiger http://geiger.mcl.ucsb.edu/offroad.html
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 18:20:38 -0400
From: stuart.banks@gsfc.nasa.gov (Stuart Banks)
Subject: BFG Mud Terrain vs. Super Swamper TSL
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Thanks for all the responses on the BFG(31x10.5 vs. 33x9.5) MT for a 84
4Runner question. It sounds like with only 2" of lift the 33s would be a
tight fit and with 4.88:1 gearing 33" is a little taller than I want to go
with the 22R. The Super Swamper TSL comes in a 32X9.5-15 I think this Size
would work fine, so the question is: How does the Super Swamper TSL compare
with the BFG Mud Terrain both off road and as a daily driver? I'm familiar
with the BFG as that is what I have been using (31x10.5-15 MT) Anyone have
experience with both or just the Super Swampers? Thanks much
Stuart
******************************
* stuart.banks@gsfc.nasa.gov *
* Stuart Banks *
* 84 4Runner 230 K miles *
* 78 Celica 195 K miles *
* 89 MR2 115 K miles *
******************************
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 22:13:42 -0800
From: Ferrex Subject: Bio
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Name: Tyson Green
City & Province: Revelstoke, BC
Country: Canada
E-mail address: tgreen@junction.net
Toyota (s) year & model: roughed up '82 4WD
Are you a TLCA Member (Y/N/Number?):N
Age: 18
Occupation: Webmaster
Marital Status:
Hobbies: tinkering with my pick-up, HTML & Java authoring
How did you find out about the Toyota 4x4 Mailing List: just stumbled on
it
General info about your vehicle, self, etc.: Poor student, picked up a
(much beloved) '82 4WD a while ago, love Toys for their durabilty and
looks (the former more than the latter, as I tend to drive roughly ;)
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 23:13:28 EST
From: Jesjr777 Subject: bio and looking for wheeling pals
To: toy4x4@tlca.org
I would like to thank everyone for all your info and ideas. Ive been suscribed
to the list for a while but have not been to active, only reading what you
other guys write.Ive been busy building my current Toy. Previously I have
owned a 84 4wd Toy, (Totally rebuilt; 3" lift, 33" tires, all new sheet metal,
paint, int. ect.) Also a 87 4wd, (1.5" suspension , 1.5" body, 33" ect.) not
as nice as my 84 but I was forced to sell the 84 because of major frame rot,
although the rest of the truck was mint. The 87 sparked my ideas for a new
project my 88 runner. It was a full optioned V-6 SR5 even with a factory CD
also a kayline top, 33"s, lift ect. Worried about declining 1st gen 4runner
prices ( I paid $10,000 for it plus the tremendous amount in mods) a year
later the going price for one was about $6,000-7,000) I sold it . Hey I know
what everyone is thinking; this was the best runner ever (with the exception
of the 84-85 solid ones) . I really loved that truck but im also buying a
house and could'nt afford to even own it let alone lose my shirt on it. So I
bought a rolled 94 4WD for next to nothing. All the sheetmetal has been
repaired and Im now working on the suspension. I hate the diff dropped kits so
I went w/ torsion bars, downey add-a-leafs, custom 1.5" body and 33" bfg's. My
main source of wheeling is on the beaches of Cape Cod Massachusetts.I'm also
working on a air compressor setup w/ the stock compressor and a air tank from
Wal-mart to handle my frequent air up and downs. Other mods include custom
traction bars,front truss,rear disc brakes,fiberglass tonneau, custom welded
bike rack for trailer hitch(also dubbs as a beach cooler rack), Chevrolet
Blazer wheels machined to fit theToy hubs ( Hey they got 4" backspacing and
they are 8" wide,dont stick out that much at all). My main concerns are costs
and functions ( I dont waste money on show only things). My next project will
be diff gears and lockers. I just wanted to let everyone know what I'm working
on in case you have any suggestions or questions. Also does anyone 4wheel in
New England? I live in Worcester,Ma but do most of my off-road on the Cape.
Did I notice Dr.Karl has a Worcester phone # ? E-mail me.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 16:32:19 -0800
From: Scott Muir Subject: Cable locker
To: "Toy4x4@tlca.org" Juha Sarimaa wrote:>I have seen cable lockers for sale here in Aus but they are not very
common.
Thanks Juha.
Next question, the rear diff in the 97 tacomas and 4runners... are they
interchangable ? and are either
of them the same or compatible with the the rear end of say ..an 88
truck?
Better yet, can someone produce a history table on diffs? Please?
Thanks. Scott.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 18:57:58 -0800
From: Brandon Miller Subject: front brakes
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
32mm seems to ring a bell..
Eric Johnson wrote:> On Thu, 8 Jan 1998, Richard Aguinsky wrote:>>>> i had the same problem, so i used the old hammer and chisel trick>> to banging the nuts out. i've learned it from old time mechanics>> that use it as a last resource to get odd nuts out.>>>> with a SHARP edged chisel, hammer a little slot close to a tip of>> the nut, then hammer your way very carefully counterclockwise>> to remove the nut. you'll be surprised to how quick and easy it>> actually is.>>>> to but back the hubs, do the same thing clockwise. tighten the>> inner nut until the hub is sort of tight, turn the hub a couple>> of times to settle the bearings and then loosen the nut 1/4>> turn.>> Um... no disrespect intended here rich, but while this would be a good> trail hack, I don't think its a hot idea normally.>> Toyota's part number for the axle nut socket is> SST 09607-60020> But I think a 2 1/16 or 2 1/8" socket works too. Most 4x4 shops should> have the right socket, and NWOR and Downey both carry it too.>> To do the job right, you need a socket so you can use a torque wrench to> get the preload set correctly.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 17:10:58 -0800
From: "Roger Brown P.E." Subject: Lifting seats
To: bascom@erols.com
Ryan Bascom wrote:>> I lifted the drivers side seat in my '87 4runner. I used rod couplers
(really long nuts) as spacers in the back with longer bolts going
through the original holes (had to make them bigger) and double nutted
on the underside. For the front i used thick sheat metal to bend a
bracket to raise the front part. I bolted this to the seat bracket. I
used exhaust manifold studs to attach the brackets to the original
holes. My bolts werent long enough and i had the studs lying around you
could use longer bolts though. Be sure to use loctite on the front bolts
cuz they tend to loosen up and your seat will rock.
< Subject: None
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
In a message dated 98-01-08 22:38:28 EST, you write:> I am> currently looking for a 80-85 toy 4x4 so if you got one for sale please> let me know! I LOVE TOYOTA!!!
I have an 80 Toy truck with a bad engine and tranny. Engine runs(22R), and
several people have said the tranny(5 sp) should be a simple easy fix...
But, I am in TN....
- ---------------------------------------------------------------------
David Moore DRM033@aol.com
90 Toyota Truck - 4" ProComp, 33" Swampers,
4.88's, rear ARB, TJM bumper & Ramsey #8000
TLCA #5662
Traxx In Motion 4 Wheel Drive Club
- ---------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 22:31:10 -0500
From: matt877@juno.com (Matthew C Chapin)
Subject: poor gas milage
To: toy4x4@tlca.org
I have a 95 4x4 SR5, but it is getting poor gas milage (about 14mpg
highway), low top speed( about 70 w/ the pedal floored) and the engine
races before it switches gears.(its an automatic) There also is a weird
grinding/ clicking noise right before it switches from first to second.
I am not familiar w/ this engine yet so if anyone has any ideas what the
problem(s) may be please post.
Thanx MC<------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 22:46:56 EST
From: JC VR 4 Subject: Putting in 4wd w/o locking hubs
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Will any damage occur if the 4wd lever is engaged with out the front hubs
(manual) locked?
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 09 Jan 1998 09:01:28 -0800
From: Chris Geiger Subject: Putting in 4wd w/o locking hubs
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
I am sure it's ok for short distance but I would not drive down the freeway
like that. I have driven like that for quickly getting up a steep driveway
where I do some work. It's easier to drive up slow in low range and I don't
want 4WD on pavement. I wish there was a way of getting the xfercase to do
2WD low range like the Jeeps and Sammys. Last year a friend of mine in a
Sammy drove most of the way (through the Rubicon) in 2WD and slipped it into
4WD on just the difficult parts, he had troubles steering with a front locker
in 4WD without power steering.
Chris Geiger 93 4Runner http://geiger.mcl.ucsb.edu/offroad.html
JC VR 4 wrote:> Will any damage occur if the 4wd lever is engaged with out the front hubs> (manual) locked?
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 09 Jan 1998 15:01:50 +1100
From: The Manager Subject: Roof consoles
To: GERALD DE LOS SANTOS Hi all. I am looking to buy a roof console to go above the dashboard area
of my 1983 dual cab 4*4
I live here in Australia's capital (so any Ausies are most welcome to write
back please) but will buy one from the states etc if I can find it.
What I want is one that has a map storage area. I have seen these in a
couple here and there but do not know where to get them. What I mean is
usually on the passanger side there is a flat drop down section that is
hinged on the windscreen side and when opened the passanger would be
looking at it as it drops down. I also would like to put the extension
speakers for the radio and phone of the drivers side....
Hope this makes sense.
Thanks.
**********************************
Sale-Net
Internet Advertising
http://sale-net.conxion.com.au
Home of Camera Capture
Member of A.S.A.N
http://asan.actcase.com/
***********************************
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 18:12:30 -0500
From: Ed.Wong@astramerck.com
Subject: Studded Snow Tires
To: emadden@inacom-vt.com
Eli:
Point taken about studding the rear's only. However,
for my driving the tradeoff is increased potential for
hydroplaning in the wet (as I live further south than
you do - Philly)
You really cant have everything (unless you can get
Pops Racer to design another set of Mark5 tires
that have studs on call).
I have a trutrac - so true ice would result in a sideslip
condition - casuing one to back off the gas - returning
some control.
Like Detroits in front and Detroits on the street - you
have to understand what your equipment will do and
drive accordingly.
BTW - I presume the J**P was sliding down towards MRG?
Personally, going down towards Barre is scarier as there
is that lovely "view" to your right.
EWong
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 14:53:31 -0800 (PST)
From: bennett Subject: stuff for sale
To: Toyota Mailing List I am selling my Warn front 'cattle guard' style bumper - it has never been
crashed and has a location for a winch (but no winch).
I am also selling a black Rollbar (never rolled) manufacturer unknown to me
but I see them on other Toyota's all the time.
I am located in San Francisco and and willing to take the best offer i get
within one week - that's my deadline for getting out of my friend's shop.
call me or email me directly if interested:
bennett30@earthlink.net
(415) 822-6805
P.S. NO UNRELATED SOLICITATIONS
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 23:01:53 EST
From: DRM033 Subject: T-bars and ride height
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
this is in no way asking for any discussion on pre-load!
I was thinki9ng about T bar adjustment on my truck. right now with the 4"
pro-comp, my lower A arms are in line with my front cross-member. I figured
there should be some angle there, but my truck sits level. Anyway, I don't I
want to raise the truck, only keep it from bottoming out on every little bump.
roughly, how many twists should I administer? I know this varies from truck
to truck, and will probably be a trial & error job.
Thanks
- ---------------------------------------------------------------------
David Moore DRM033@aol.com
90 Toyota Truck - 4" ProComp, 33" Swampers,
4.88's, rear ARB, TJM bumper & Ramsey #8000
TLCA #5662
Traxx In Motion 4 Wheel Drive Club
- ---------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 09 Jan 1998 09:02:23 -0800
From: Chris Geiger Subject: T-bars and ride height
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
I think 5 full turns would be a good start.
DRM033 wrote:> this is in no way asking for any discussion on pre-load!>> I was thinki9ng about T bar adjustment on my truck. right now with the 4"> pro-comp, my lower A arms are in line with my front cross-member. I figured> there should be some angle there, but my truck sits level. Anyway, I don't I> want to raise the truck, only keep it from bottoming out on every little bump.> roughly, how many twists should I administer? I know this varies from truck> to truck, and will probably be a trial & error job.>> Thanks>> ---------------------------------------------------------------------> David Moore DRM033@aol.com> 90 Toyota Truck - 4" ProComp, 33" Swampers,> 4.88's, rear ARB, TJM bumper & Ramsey #8000> TLCA #5662> Traxx In Motion 4 Wheel Drive Club> ---------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 17:30:17 -0500
From: Darren Floen Subject: Timing Chain Cover Stuck
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
IF I REMEMBER CORRECTLY FROM THE LAST TIM I DID THIS,THERE IS A BOLT
BEHIND THE UPPER T-CHAIN GEAR.OTHERWISE,GIVE THE COVER AN EDUCATION WITH
A PRYBAR AND WIGGLE IT OUT.WHEN I DID IT I PULLED THE HEAD.I AM
WONDERING ABOUT HOW WELL EVERYTHING SEALS BACK UP AFTER,JIM?
DARREN FLOEN
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 17:04:54 -0800
From: Jim Brink Subject: Timing Chain Cover Stuck
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Greg S. Francis wrote:>> I am in the middle of replacing the timing chain on my 22re, due to a> broken guide. I have read several accounts of people managing to remove> the chain cover without pulling the head OR dropping the oil pan. I am> curious what trick you used to accomplish this. I have removed all the> bolts from the timing cover (yes, even the hidden ones), and cannot get it> to budge. It is pretty well sandwiched between the head and pan. Also, if> this does not work, how far do I have to drop the pan. I have a Rancho 3"> lift, will I have to remove the diff (IFS)?> Thanks for any help.
Have you removed the two bolts from oil pan? what about the bolt from
the cylinder head into the timing cover, the one that is located in
front of the distributor drive gear? It is usually covered in engine
oil.
- --
Jim Brink--Toyota/ASE Certified Technician '86 Std. Bed 22R
Manhattan Beach, CA 32x11.50/15 BFG M/Ts
ToyTech@off-road.com
http://geiger.mcl.ucsb.edu/jim/jim.html
************************************************************************
TLCA# 6184/ Friends of the Mojave Road (FOMR)
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 17:12:15 -0800
From: Jim Brink Subject: Timing Chain Cover Stuck
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Darren Floen wrote:>> IF I REMEMBER CORRECTLY FROM THE LAST TIM I DID THIS,THERE IS A BOLT> BEHIND THE UPPER T-CHAIN GEAR.OTHERWISE,GIVE THE COVER AN EDUCATION WITH> A PRYBAR AND WIGGLE IT OUT.WHEN I DID IT I PULLED THE HEAD.I AM> WONDERING ABOUT HOW WELL EVERYTHING SEALS BACK UP AFTER,JIM?
Don't pry too hard, you will snap the dowel pin holes on the cover.
If you carefully clean all surfaces and apply a light coat of RTV (the
grey type works best) to all ungasketed areas, it should not leak at
all.
Replace the oil pump o-ring while you are at it.
- --
Jim Brink--Toyota/ASE Certified Technician '86 Std. Bed 22R
Manhattan Beach, CA 32x11.50/15 BFG M/Ts
ToyTech@off-road.com
http://geiger.mcl.ucsb.edu/jim/jim.html
************************************************************************
TLCA# 6184/ Friends of the Mojave Road (FOMR)
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 19:28:02 -0600 (CST)
From: gfrancis@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (Greg S. Francis)
Subject: Timing Chain Cover Stuck
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org>Have you removed the two bolts from oil pan? what about the bolt from>the cylinder head into the timing cover, the one that is located in>front of the distributor drive gear? It is usually covered in engine>oil.>>--
I have removed all of the bolts. I think it just needs to be wiggled free.
It it a good idea to loosen the pan? I would think that once you have
loosened it, it would be necessary to remove it, clean it, and reapply RTV
in order for it to seal correctly.
- -Greg
Greg S. Francis
University of Texas @ Austin
School of Architecture
gfrancis@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu
TLCA Member #5558
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 7 Jan 1998 21:13:51 -0800
From: "Todd and Terry Steele" Subject: Toe-in is wacked out
To: "Toyota Digest" I've got a problem and I'm noy sure what is causing it. I run 30-11.5
Swampers on my 87 IFS truck. I had the alignment done in May, Sept, Nov and
it needs to be done again. What happened in Sept and Nov is when I put my
truck in 4WD, the toe-in went out of whack. We went on a snow run the
weekend before XMAS and last Friday my toe-in went out of whack. It's not
gradual, it happens immediately. I have replaced the adjusting sleeves, tie
rods are in good shape. Any ideas??
Todd
His: 87 Toyota 4X4, Marlin Tcase #180, EZ Lockers F/R, Custom rear bumper
and nerfs, Ramsey F bumper, Trailmaster/Superlift 4", 30-11.50-15 TSL SX's
on AR Type 23 15X8. Custom Body by Sierra Nevada.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 09 Jan 1998 06:35:17 -0800
From: Chris Geiger Subject: Toe-in is wacked out
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Have you looked at the condition of the Idler Arm? Jack up the truck and get
under,
grab the front of the tires if you can change the toe by hand you have a bad
ball
joint or idler arm. From what I have seen all idler arms will have the bearings
fail
between 50K and 150K miles depending on how you drive. I replaced mine at
about 65K miles.
Chris Geiger 93 4Runner http://geiger.mcl.ucsb.edu/offroad.html> I've got a problem and I'm noy sure what is causing it. I run 30-11.5> Swampers on my 87 IFS truck. I had the alignment done in May, Sept, Nov and> it needs to be done again. What happened in Sept and Nov is when I put my> truck in 4WD, the toe-in went out of whack. We went on a snow run the> weekend before XMAS and last Friday my toe-in went out of whack. It's not> gradual, it happens immediately. I have replaced the adjusting sleeves, tie> rods are in good shape. Any ideas??
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 23:07:45 EST
From: DRM033 Subject: Toe-in is wacked out
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
In a message dated 98-01-08 21:04:00 EST, you write:>> I've got a problem and I'm noy sure what is causing it. I run 30-11.5> Swampers on my 87 IFS truck. I had the alignment done in May, Sept, Nov
and> it needs to be done again. What happened in Sept and Nov is when I put my> truck in 4WD, the toe-in went out of whack. We went on a snow run the> weekend before XMAS and last Friday my toe-in went out of whack. It's not> gradual, it happens immediately. I have replaced the adjusting sleeves,
tie> rods are in good shape. Any ideas??> I just recently took the advise of a shop and had everything replaced in the
steering
pitman arm
tie rod ends
idler arm
I also had the hubs repacked & front pads replaced while they were in there.
I was skeptical at first, but I did not know how bad it was till I saw how
good it could be! No kidding, it was like driving a different truck. I would
suggest looking at, and replacing ANYTHING questionably problematic in the
steering.
- ---------------------------------------------------------------------
David Moore DRM033@aol.com
90 Toyota Truck - 4" ProComp, 33" Swampers,
4.88's, rear ARB, TJM bumper & Ramsey #8000
TLCA #5662
Traxx In Motion 4 Wheel Drive Club
- ---------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 18:10:49 -0800
From: "Ryan Comber" Subject: Toy V6 clutches
To: "Toy4x4 List" Hello all,
Unfortunately I have been away from the list for a while, so please excuse
me if this has been covered recently.
My truck's clutch is on it's last legs. So naturally I am in the market for
a new one. Do I go OEM (i.e. local Lordco/NAPA) or fork out the money for
some fancy clutch (i.e. Centerforce / Super Clutch). I don't do a lot of
4xing yet but I plan to soon. The truck won't be on anything bigger than
33's for some time to come.
TIA
==============================================
Ryan Comber 89 Toyota SR5 V6 X-Cab 4x4
rcomber@uniserve.com
http://users.uniserve.com/~rcomber
When you come to a fork in the road... GO STRAIGHT!
==============================================
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 22:39:12 EST
From: DRM033 Subject: TRD cam for 22RE
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
In a message dated 98-01-08 13:44:57 EST, you write:>>one more, from 2000 - 5700, let me know if you want it too. needs lots of>>engine work for it.>> Let me know the specs on this one - and if anyone has a NWOR and Downey> Catalog available, Send me those specs and we can compare ! Fun !
20R/22RE 2000 - 5700 rpm, off-highway use only, mid range - top end, rough
idle, will not work with factory EFI, headers, perf. exhaust, & mild cylinder
porting recommended.
intake lift 11.3 mm
exhaust lift 11.6 mm
duration int. 282 degrees
duration exh. 292 degrees
thanks for the explanation you gave!
- ---------------------------------------------------------------------
David Moore DRM033@aol.com
90 Toyota Truck - 4" ProComp, 33" Swampers,
4.88's, rear ARB, TJM bumper & Ramsey #8000
TLCA #5662
Traxx In Motion 4 Wheel Drive Club
- ---------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 02:31:33 -0500
From: "penny" Subject: What basic accesories are needed to use a HiLift as a winch ??
To: "HI-LIFT LAND ANCHOR" If you ever find yourself "stuck" you may want to try
this!
materials; 4 foot piece of rebar with one end pointed, 3#
sledgehammer, strong piece of chain, (tarp optional)Hi-lift jack
First, drive the rebar into the ground at an angle away from the stuck
truck/4 runner with the sledgehammer,
leaving about 1 foot of it above ground.
Second,attach the jack to the rebar by placing the top hole in the jack
over the rebar.(tarp is handy here to lay hi-lift jack on)
Third, hook one end of the chain to the "lifting" part of your hi-lift,
then the other end to a recovery point on your truck. Try to get as much
"slack" out of the chain as possible.
Finally,using the hi-lift you can manually winch yourself out...this method
will generally move the vehicle almost 4 feet, sometimes thats all you need
to get underway again...if not lower jack and do it again,etc.
A 1" I.D. piece of p.v.c. with two end caps will make a nice carrying case
for your "land anchor"
I use two hose clamps(the type you can tighten by hand) to secure my
hi-lift behind the seat against the back of the cab, in the place of the
factory jack handle
all I had to do was bend the 2 tabs down a little so the jack sits there
while im mounting it.
And use tie wraps to mount the land anchor to the back of my bench seat on
the metal grid looking deal.
Jimmy 82Toy4x4 L.B.
purnrgy@quancon.com
http://www.geocities.com/baja/6397/
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 21:03:45 +0000
From: David Booth Subject: Whining T-Case--More Info.
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
I guess I forgot to add some important information regarding the whining
T-Case on my 4Runner. It is a 1st gen. 1989 V6--so I have the chain
driven T-Case.
Does the occasional whining (and when it does whine, it isn't very loud)
mean that I should replace/fit it right away, or should I wait and see
if the whining/vibration gets worse.
Thanks for your suggestions so far--any more ideas.
Dave Booth
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 22:27:05 -0500
From: matt877@juno.com (Matthew C Chapin)
To: toy4x4@tlca.org
Name: Matt Chapin
City & State: Wilkes Barre Pa.
Country:
E-mail address: matt877@juno.com
Toyota (s) year & model: 95 Toy 4x4 SR5
Are you a TLCA Member (Y/N/Number?): N
Age: 20
Occupation: Student @ Millersville Univ. Studying Technology
Education
Marital Status: Single
Hobbies: 4 wheelin' hunting fishing camping anything outdoors!
How did you find out about the Toyota 4x4 Mailing List: I was previously
a member
General info about your vehicle, self, etc.: I used to own an 82 Toy And
I loved it till it was crushed in an accident when it was parked, Now I
talked my dad into buying a 95 toy instead of a 97Ranger (not even a
comparison!) Right now it is bone stock w/ a factory push bar. I am
currently looking for a 80-85 toy 4x4 so if you got one for sale please
let me know! I LOVE TOYOTA!!!
------------------------------
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