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Toy4x4 Mailing List Digest v1n643

Publish date: Dec 1, 2005
By: ORC STAFF
Source: Off-Road.com

Toy4x4 Digest Thu, 8 Jan 98 12:30:02 (HST) Volume 1 : Issue 643
Today's Topics:
3.4L Turbo charger (8 msgs)
ARE MY HUBS LOCKED...OR NOT? (3 msgs)
Bio
Cable locker (2 msgs)
Dashboard repair (2 msgs)
Engine Dyeing
forgot somethin (2 msgs)
front brakes (4 msgs)
Island Rock Crawlers Rock Crawl 98!
Junk Yard Prices (was: Re: Whining T-Case)
Lifting seats
List Member's Ride's page updated.
Perf. Products free flow cat problem (2 msgs)
Performance / K&N (One for the good guys!)
RADIATOR (2 msgs)
re lift needed for 35" tires
Studded Snow Tires
super swampers 31x13.5
Supra Engine Availability (2 msgs)
Tacoma Gearing (3 msgs)
Tall and Skinny Sno Tyres
Timing Chain Cover Stuck (2 msgs)
TRD cam for 22RE (3 msgs)
TRD catalog (3 msgs)
two piece th350 adapter
Whining T-Case
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 13:11:07 -0600 (CST)
From: "Bruce Burden" Subject: 3.4L Turbo charger
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org>> For you guys impatiently awaiting the arrival of the 3.4L TRD turbo> charger...there a good picture of it at> http://www.toyotaworld.com/trd/pg35.htm> Hey, SUPERcharger! Turbo chargers would screw up headers! :-)
I want one. Plus some headers. And a cat-back system :-) I wonder
how much boost it produces, and what the price will be?
Bruce
- --
- -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bruce Burden bruceb@isd.tandem.com Tandem Computers Inc.
512-432-8944 Network Verification 14231 Tandem Blvd.
Auto answer(4 rings) Austin, TX 78726
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 08 Jan 98 15:33:40 -0600
From: bwiencek@kcnet.com
Subject: 3.4L Turbo charger
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
I think it's 5-6 PSI and makes 40% more power, and cost I've heard is
$3200-$3800
- - Brian
On Thu, 8 Jan 1998, "Bruce Burden" wrote:>> http://www.toyotaworld.com/trd/pg35.htm>>> Hey, SUPERcharger! Turbo chargers would screw up headers! :-)> I want one. Plus some headers. And a cat-back system :-) I wonder> how much boost it produces, and what the price will be?
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 16:39:57 -0500
From: "David C. Inabinet" Subject: 3.4L Turbo charger
To: WOW! Thats expensive!!! I would like one.. but for that price it is hard to
justify! Is it just a bolt on affair?
- -----Original Message-----
From: bwiencek@kcnet.com To: Toy4x4@tlca.org Date: Thursday, January 08, 1998 4:39 PM
Subject: Re: 3.4L Turbo charger>I think it's 5-6 PSI and makes 40% more power, and cost I've heard is>$3200-$3800>>- Brian>>On Thu, 8 Jan 1998, "Bruce Burden" wrote:>>> http://www.toyotaworld.com/trd/pg35.htm>>>>> Hey, SUPERcharger! Turbo chargers would screw up headers! :-)>> I want one. Plus some headers. And a cat-back system :-) I wonder>> how much boost it produces, and what the price will be?> ------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 15:47:07 -0600 (CST)
From: "Bruce Burden" Subject: 3.4L Turbo charger
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org>> WOW! Thats expensive!!! I would like one.. but for that price it is hard to> justify! Is it just a bolt on affair?> Yeah, but 40% more power puts you around the 270 mark :-)
To look at the photo, it appears to replace the top of the
intake runners.
Bruce
- --
- -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bruce Burden bruceb@isd.tandem.com Tandem Computers Inc.
512-432-8944 Network Verification 14231 Tandem Blvd.
Auto answer(4 rings) Austin, TX 78726
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 16:55:55 -0500
From: "David C. Inabinet" Subject: 3.4L Turbo charger
To: Bruce,
How can I convince my wife that my new truck needs this? :-)
- -----Original Message-----
From: Bruce Burden To: Toy4x4@tlca.org Date: Thursday, January 08, 1998 4:51 PM
Subject: Re: 3.4L Turbo charger>>>> WOW! Thats expensive!!! I would like one.. but for that price it is hard
to>> justify! Is it just a bolt on affair?>>> Yeah, but 40% more power puts you around the 270 mark :-)> To look at the photo, it appears to replace the top of the> intake runners.>> Bruce>-->---------------------------------------------------------------------------
- ----> Bruce Burden bruceb@isd.tandem.com Tandem Computers
Inc.> 512-432-8944 Network Verification 14231 Tandem Blvd.> Auto answer(4 rings) Austin, TX 78726
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 08 Jan 98 15:59:09 -0600
From: bwiencek@kcnet.com
Subject: 3.4L Turbo charger
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org>> WOW! Thats expensive!!! I would like one.. but for that price it is hard>> justify! Is it just a bolt on affair?>>> Yeah, but 40% more power puts you around the 270 mark :-)> To look at the photo, it appears to replace the top of the> intake runners.
It looks real clean & simple, but I think the 40% might be a bit overstated -
I think more like 240 hp - still real impressive. I know they can't run a
whole lot of boost without an intercooler. Now when is that going to be
'stock' from the factory? Probably would only cost another $1000 from the
factory (like the SC MR2's & previas, etc.)
- - Brian
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 16:04:09 -0600 (CST)
From: "Bruce Burden" Subject: 3.4L Turbo charger
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org>> How can I convince my wife that my new truck needs this? :-)> Got me. But for the pure "Toy" factor, it would be
real interesting :-) Of course, those incidental costs
would also likely go up - like tires :-)
Bruce
- --
- -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bruce Burden bruceb@isd.tandem.com Tandem Computers Inc.
512-432-8944 Network Verification 14231 Tandem Blvd.
Auto answer(4 rings) Austin, TX 78726
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 16:08:19 -0600
From: John Vargus Subject: 3.4L Turbo charger
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org>>How can I convince my wife that my new truck needs this? :-)> If you find the phrase that works let me know I'll be sure to try it on my
wife :)
I can already hear "And why do you think we need this super...thing ????
John
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 09:17:45 -0600
From: john_j_harville@amoco.com
Subject: ARE MY HUBS LOCKED...OR NOT?
To: Toy4X4@tlca.org
Hey folks, I've got a 95 4Runner with V-6 5-speed. Bought the truck
used and it had some new aftermarket wheels installed. The front
center caps do not have the hole in them to manually lock/unlock the
hubs. Was told by a local dealer that the 95 4Runners only came with
ADD (auto disconnect diff.). They said to unlock the front hubs, you
only need to shift out of 4 wheel drive. I have done this, but the
hubs are still locked. Even tried backing up about 30 feet or so to
see if that works, but no luck. Can anyone help out here? What gives?
Thanks,
John Harville
john_j_harville@amoco.com
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 11:00:09 -0500
From: Ed Ruf Subject: ARE MY HUBS LOCKED...OR NOT?
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
At 09:17 AM 1/8/98 -0600, john_j_harville@amoco.com illustriously expounded:> Hey folks, I've got a 95 4Runner with V-6 5-speed. Bought the truck> used and it had some new aftermarket wheels installed. The front> center caps do not have the hole in them to manually lock/unlock the> hubs. Was told by a local dealer that the 95 4Runners only came with> ADD (auto disconnect diff.). They said to unlock the front hubs, you> only need to shift out of 4 wheel drive. I have done this, but the> hubs are still locked. Even tried backing up about 30 feet or so to> see if that works, but no luck. Can anyone help out here? What gives?
John,
If you have ADD, then I believe by definition the factory hubs are always
locked.
Ed
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 23:50:46 -0800
From: Chris Geiger Subject: ARE MY HUBS LOCKED...OR NOT?
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org> Hey folks, I've got a 95 4Runner with V-6 5-speed. Bought the truck> used and it had some new aftermarket wheels installed. The front> center caps do not have the hole in them to manually lock/unlock the> hubs. Was told by a local dealer that the 95 4Runners only came with> ADD (auto disconnect diff.). They said to unlock the front hubs, you> only need to shift out of 4 wheel drive. I have done this, but the> hubs are still locked. Even tried backing up about 30 feet or so to> see if that works, but no luck. Can anyone help out here? What gives?
You have ADD but not Auto hubs. Trucks shipped with ADD have live hubs
that are locked all the time. The only way to unlock them is to remove the
hubs you have and replace them with manual hubs. (about $130 form warn)
If you do it will cut down on driveshaft and front differental wear and
increase gas mileage by about 1MPG.
Chris Geiger 93 4Runner http://geiger.mcl.ucsb.edu/offroad.html
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 09:29:10 -0700
From: "Jeffery Zicko" Subject: Bio
To: toy4x4@tlca.org
Date: Wed, 7 Jan 1998 05:31:15 -1000
To: jzicko@alert.alert.com
From: Toy4x4-Request Reply-to: Toy4x4 Subject: Bio
Personal Bio Info
Name: Jeff Zicko
City & State: Aurora, CO
Country:USA
E-mail address: jzicko@alert.alert.com
Toyota (s) year & model: 1992 toyota 4x4 extnd cab pickup 22-re 4cyl
Are you a TLCA Member (Y/N/Number?):No
Age:19
Occupation: Alarm dispatch
Marital Status: Almost
Hobbies: watching t.v. and four-wheeling
How did you find out about the Toyota 4x4 Mailing List: From the
offroad mailing list and offroad.com
General info about your vehicle, self, etc.: My truck is stock (but
I still can dream)
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 11:26:15 -0800
From: Scott Muir Subject: Cable locker
To: "'Toy List'" >Hi Scott!>As far as I know the cable locker is only>available for Landcruisers not the pickups.>Wil
Thanks Wil. I'm looking into it. I'll let you know what I find.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 09 Jan 1998 09:00:54 +1100
From: Juha Sarimaa Subject: Cable locker
To: Jack Alford Scott,
I have seen cable lockers for sale here in Aus but they are not very common.
I am sure that they came in the Landcruiser Sahara (Aus top of the range)
and am pretty sure they were in some of the other LC models as well.
Juha.
85 Hilux
Juha.Sarimaa@health.gov.au
- -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
- ----
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 13:29:33 -0600
From: David Soh Subject: Dashboard repair
To: toy4x4@tlca.org
My '86 4X4 p/u has a crack of about 3/16 inch wide running from front to
rear in the middle of the dash. Does anybody know of any product that will
fill/repair the crack mainly for cosmetic purposes ? Thanks in advance.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 14:42:18 -0500 (EST)
From: "Dr. Karl Bellve" Subject: Dashboard repair
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
On Thu, 8 Jan 1998, David Soh wrote:> My '86 4X4 p/u has a crack of about 3/16 inch wide running from front to> rear in the middle of the dash. Does anybody know of any product that will> fill/repair the crack mainly for cosmetic purposes ? Thanks in advance.> And my wife thinks I am crazy to use a sun shade on my 1985 4Runner SR5.
Dash is still in great shape and I intend to keep it that way. (yes, I use
it in the middle of winter, UV isn't only during the summer) :-)
Cheers,
Karl Bellve, Ph.D.
Biomedical Imaging Group
University of Massachusetts
WWW : http://molmed.ummed.edu/~kdb/
Email: kdb@molmed.ummed.edu
Phone: (508) 856-3785
Fax : (508) 856-1840
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 06:53:42 -1000 (HST)
From: Eric Johnson Subject: Engine Dyeing
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
On Wed, 7 Jan 1998, David Fritzsche wrote:> I have a 1990 V-6, when I am going down the freeway the engine will quit> and then it will start again. The "check engine light" does not come on,> all of the gages are still working. It feels like it runs out of gas. It> does not do it all of the time and I am not getting any codes when I> check. I have been told that it could be the EFI relay, or the module in> the distributor, or the fuel filter. Any Ideas.
Change your plug wires. I know it sounds crazy, but I had a similar
problem once in my '79, it would just cut out at freeway speeds, and fire
back up a few seconds later. New plug wires fixed it for me. YMMV.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 12:22:30 -0500
From: "Wilbur M. Yegge" Subject: forgot somethin
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
I forgot to mention in my post "two piece th350 adapter" that in my
garage is an 82 transfer case...so i guess it'll work if it will bolt onto
the crossmember of my 85 and i change the driveshaft flanges to the 14mm
ones off my 85 transfer case. Am i right??
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 08 Jan 98 12:25:21 -0600
From: bwiencek@kcnet.com
Subject: forgot somethin
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Now you're thinking - as long as it bolts up to the transfer case you want to
use, crossmember mods are trivial (and usually needed anyway) As for it
bolting up to the 85 trnasfer case, I can't remember what the differences are
off the top of my head.
- - Brian
On Thu, 08 Jan 1998, "Wilbur M. Yegge" wrote:> I forgot to mention in my post "two piece th350 adapter" that in my>garage is an 82 transfer case...so i guess it'll work if it will bolt onto>the crossmember of my 85 and i change the driveshaft flanges to the 14mm>ones off my 85 transfer case. Am i right??>> ------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 11:26:11 -0800
From: "Richard Aguinsky" Subject: front brakes
To: wolfer1@toolcity.net, Toy4x4@tlca.org
i had the same problem, so i used the old hammer and chisel trick
to banging the nuts out. i've learned it from old time mechanics
that use it as a last resource to get odd nuts out.
with a SHARP edged chisel, hammer a little slot close to a tip of
the nut, then hammer your way very carefully counterclockwise
to remove the nut. you'll be surprised to how quick and easy it
actually is.
to but back the hubs, do the same thing clockwise. tighten the
inner nut until the hub is sort of tight, turn the hub a couple
of times to settle the bearings and then loosen the nut 1/4
turn.
hope this helps.
rich
'87 4runner
190000 miles young
now with new grease in the front wheel bearings
domenick wrote:
I'm getting ready to do a complete brake rebuild and have not been
able to find out what size the front axle nut size is....Toyota is no
help where I live..Any help on the size of the nut would be
appreciated....My truck is a 1984 with manual hubs..
Thanks in advance
Domenick
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 09:45:53 -1000 (HST)
From: Eric Johnson Subject: front brakes
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
On Thu, 8 Jan 1998, Richard Aguinsky wrote:>> i had the same problem, so i used the old hammer and chisel trick> to banging the nuts out. i've learned it from old time mechanics> that use it as a last resource to get odd nuts out.>> with a SHARP edged chisel, hammer a little slot close to a tip of> the nut, then hammer your way very carefully counterclockwise> to remove the nut. you'll be surprised to how quick and easy it> actually is.>> to but back the hubs, do the same thing clockwise. tighten the> inner nut until the hub is sort of tight, turn the hub a couple> of times to settle the bearings and then loosen the nut 1/4> turn.
Um... no disrespect intended here rich, but while this would be a good
trail hack, I don't think its a hot idea normally.
Toyota's part number for the axle nut socket is
SST 09607-60020
But I think a 2 1/16 or 2 1/8" socket works too. Most 4x4 shops should
have the right socket, and NWOR and Downey both carry it too.
To do the job right, you need a socket so you can use a torque wrench to
get the preload set correctly.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 15:03:02 -0500
From: Jason Matthews Subject: front brakes
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org> Toyota's part number for the axle nut socket is> SST 09607-60020> But I think a 2 1/16 or 2 1/8" socket works too. Most 4x4 shops should> have the right socket, and NWOR and Downey both carry it too.>> To do the job right, you need a socket so you can use a torque wrench to> get the preload set correctly.
2 1/8" from Sears will do it fine.
My question is what is the actual torque spec on this nut?
The only documentation I have seen mentions using a scale of some sort attached
to a wheel lug to meaure the force required to turn the wheel, no mention of
actual torque on the nut itself. So, I still use the socket, but sort of a
preload guess....
- -----
Jason Matthews
93 V6 X-Cab
4" Pro-Comp
32" BFG's or
33" Dunlop Mud Rovers
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 10:07:21 -1000 (HST)
From: Eric Johnson Subject: front brakes
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
On Thu, 8 Jan 1998, Jason Matthews wrote:>> Toyota's part number for the axle nut socket is>> SST 09607-60020>> But I think a 2 1/16 or 2 1/8" socket works too. Most 4x4 shops should>> have the right socket, and NWOR and Downey both carry it too.>>>> To do the job right, you need a socket so you can use a torque wrench to>> get the preload set correctly.>> 2 1/8" from Sears will do it fine.>> My question is what is the actual torque spec on this nut?> The factory manual and most aftermarket shop manuals go through the
procedure. There's an article written by jack on wheel bearing replacement
on the toyota pages at off-road.com that has the correct
procedure.
The adjusting nut is torqued to 43 ftlbs, you rotate the hubs a few times,
loosen it, then retighten it to 18 ftlbs. then you use a spring scale (a
fish scale actually works for this) or one of the lugs to verify the
preload on the entire hub is between 6.4 and 12.6 lbs.
Then you put on the lock washer and locknut, torquing it to 35 ftlbs.
check the bearings for play, re-check the preload, and if everything is
ok, bend the tabs on the lockwasher to keep the adjusting nut and locknut
from moving.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 09:38:37 -0800
From: "wg" Subject: Island Rock Crawlers Rock Crawl 98!
To: Island Rock Crawlers present Rock Crawl 98!
Hi Everyone! I thought I would give those in
the Pacific Northwest some advance notice
about a really fun event that the 4x4 club I
belong to puts on.
The Rock Crawl is a 3yr old jamboree open
to any type of 4x4. It takes place in Sooke,
British Columbia (near Victoria). Canadian
May longweekend (May 15-18).
If your looking to have an incredibly great time
with some real nice people sign up!
Last year we didn't have near enough Toyota's!
Only 4 pickups (and we where all club members)
and 0 4runners! I wanna see more Toys!
Anyways for more info go to the club page at:
http://www.off-road.com/~irc/
to get an idea of the terrain around Southern Vancouver Island
go to:
http://apertos0.csc.uvic.ca/brycerw/4x4.html
Wil
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 08 Jan 98 12:25:17 -0600
From: bwiencek@kcnet.com
Subject: Junk Yard Prices (was: Re: Whining T-Case)
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
On Thu, 8 Jan 1998, Ed.Wong@astramerck.com wrote:>Those of us on the East coast are always jealous of the low cost>of parts in 'yards in the very dry (and less bureaucratic)>SouthWest...>Really - Ive checked - and 'yards up here charge 2x to 3x what>prices you seem to be able to find....Perhaps I oughtta call>yrads down your way (but returns and inspections are a>PITA that way)
Well, my expierence is about the same - finding toyota's here in Kansas City
junk yards is real hit & miss. The pricing varies WIDELY - the insturment
cluster I just ordered for my '85 was priced from $75-175 at the local yards,
and I called around and finally found one for $35 out of town.... If you want
the highest prices - call TAP recycling - the Toyota 'dismantler' that
advertises in the back of all the mags - WOW are they high for everything
I've called for they were 500-700% higher!
- - Brian
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 14:42:15 -0500
From: Bob Bascom Subject: Lifting seats
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
I lifted the drivers side seat in my '87 4runner. I used rod couplers
(really long nuts) as spacers in the back with longer bolts going
through the original holes (had to make them bigger) and double nutted
on the underside. For the front i used thick sheat metal to bend a
bracket to raise the front part. I bolted this to the seat bracket. I
used exhaust manifold studs to attach the brackets to the original
holes. My bolts werent long enough and i had the studs lying around you
could use longer bolts though. Be sure to use loctite on the front bolts
cuz they tend to loosen up and your seat will rock.
Ryan Bascom
'87 4runner
TLCA# 5943
bascom@erols.com
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 08 Jan 98 09:14:22 -0600
From: bwiencek@kcnet.com
Subject: List Member's Ride's page updated.
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
OK, now that we all found Geocities shortcomings, I have re-uploaded all the
images that everyone pointed out and am going to go through and diuble check
that they made it OK.
Thanks everyone for taking a look !
- -Brian
On Wed, 07 Jan 1998, breeze@cysource.com (Jeffrey Delzer) wrote:>Scott Wilson wrote:>>>> bwiencek@kcnet.com wrote:>>>>> Check it out and let me know if I broke or misplaced something. If you
want>>> to get your truck on to the list simply drop me a e-mail.>>>> Hey Brian,>> jimmy2.jpg on page>> http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/3481/truck-83.html>> is messed up...90% of the picture is solid gray...I dunno what>> happened...>>Verified here. I get about 1/4" of the top of the picture, then nothing>more. I use Communicator 4.04, by the way.>>Jeff Delzer>> ------------------------------
Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 09:13:36 -0600
From: John Subject: Perf. Products free flow cat problem
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Was the "Free Flow Cat" worth the trouble? Did it make any difference?
I am getting ready to redo my exhaust system and this was on my wish
list.
John
DRM033 wrote:>> I purchased the "free flow cat" from Performance Products approx. 2 & 1/4> years ago and installed it on my truck. It was fine till today, on my way to> school from home on the interstate it had a problem. Just behind the front> mounting flange & ahead of the body of the cat the tube broke clean in half.> Not sure why, ir how long it has been stressed/cracked (no sound evidence> before this), but I just wanted to put this out there to anyone who might be> interested in this product.> By the way, $20 at Midas fixed me up, but makes me mad I could have done it> myself had I been at home ...>> ---------------------------------------------------------------------> David Moore DRM033@aol.com> 90 Toyota Truck - 4" ProComp, 33" Swampers,> 4.88's, rear ARB, TJM bumper & Ramsey #8000> TLCA #5662> Traxx In Motion 4 Wheel Drive Club> ---------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 12:19:47 EST
From: DRM033 Subject: Perf. Products free flow cat problem
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
In a message dated 98-01-08 10:19:37 EST, you write:>> Was the "Free Flow Cat" worth the trouble? Did it make any difference?> I am getting ready to redo my exhaust system and this was on my wish> list.
hard to tell, I installed the Rancho Powerflow dual exhaust at the same time.
I will say that the combo left the truck more responsive, but I feel (as
others on the list) that a local shop could put together a great system for a
good price instead of these pre-made exhaust kits.
- ---------------------------------------------------------------------
David Moore DRM033@aol.com
90 Toyota Truck - 4" ProComp, 33" Swampers,
4.88's, rear ARB, TJM bumper & Ramsey #8000
TLCA #5662
Traxx In Motion 4 Wheel Drive Club
- ---------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 12:29:41 -0600
From: "James E Triplett" Subject: Performance / K&N (One for the good guys!)
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
[I wrote:]> BTW, has anyone had problems with the K&N filter cleaning kit? I went> to use mine for the first time Saturday (I ordered the cleaning kit with> the filter from Performance) and the aerosol oil can provided a dribble
of> oil rather than a spray.
[Jason Redman responded:]
Just take the spray nozzle off and clean it with a toothpick... it's
probably just clogged.
[My response:]
I assume there was no insult intended... But I tried de-clogging the spray
nozzle (of course). Actually I tried a paper clip, a safety pin, a sewing
needle, and a syringe. I also pounded it with hot tap water and submerged
it in boiling water. No Luck! Then I tried some nozzles off of other
spray products. Still no luck... (I guess I never did actually try a
toothpick...)
Now for the good news... I decided the $7 loss might as well come from K&N
or Performance Products so I called Performance. Guess what? No
problem... They are sending me a replacement oil can - no need to return
the defective one. Cool! :-)
BTW, has anyone ever lifted the -seats- in their truck??? I have long
legs and would be more comfortable up an inch or so higher.
Thanks for the bandwidth...
James E. Triplett
1996 T100 Xcab 4wheel... yada, yada, yada...
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 98 10:16:36 -0700
From: Jeff Moskovitz Subject: RADIATOR
To: "Toyota list" Kevin wrote:> I have a problem with my current radiator. The top tank seem has>come appart and needs to get fixed. It is not to bad yet and I check>it once a week just to make sure. My truck is an 88 with 135,000>miles. What I am wondering is if I should by a new radiator or have>my present one cleaned out and repaired? I was told by a reputable>radiator shop that it is best to just by a new one for $160 and>change. I think though that he may just be trying to sell one to me.>I haven't been able to fully check out the condition of my present>radiator. I don't see the need to spend $160 on a new raditor if mine>will last, but then I don't want to spend $60 to fix it only to break>it again. Any thoughts would be much appreciated.
I had this same problem on my truck about 8 weeks ago. I originally
opted to have the seam repaired, but the radiator header was so weakened
that it split again about 4 inches away from the original leak. I then
had the radiator recored, and haven't had any problems with it since.
I would recommend a recore; it should be a little cheaper than a new
radiator, and it should work just as well.
Jeff
- -------------------------------------------------------------------------
Jeff Moskovitz 1986 22R-TE truck
Senior Support Specialist 2.5" exhaust, Random Tech
Claris Corporation cat, DynoMax muffler,
Rancho RS9000 shocks,
jeff_moskovitz@claris.com lots 'o stereo.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 01 Jan 1904 11:02:36 +0000
From: sbever@jeffnet.org
Subject: RADIATOR
To: Kevin Burk , Toyota 4x4 List Kevin wrote:> Hey All,> I have a problem with my current radiator. The top tank seem has> come appart and needs to get fixed. It is not to bad yet and I check> it once a week just to make sure. My truck is an 88 with 135,000> miles. What I am wondering is if I should by a new radiator or have> my present one cleaned out and repaired? I was told by a reputable> radiator shop that it is best to just by a new one for $160 and> change. I think though that he may just be trying to sell one to me.> I haven't been able to fully check out the condition of my present> radiator. I don't see the need to spend $160 on a new raditor if mine> will last, but then I don't want to spend $60 to fix it only to break> it again. Any thoughts would be much appreciated.
60 seems high to solder the top tank. Shop around. A new (modine
#195) rad for an 88 toy is about $119 if you get a good deal. Shop
around.> Thanx,> Kev> ______________________
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 14:21:29 -0600
From: Stan Moskal Subject: re lift needed for 35" tires
To: toy4x4@tlca.org
Thank you to everyone who replied to my post, sorry about the lack of
subject line. My friend is going for show not off road performance. He
decided to go with the 33" wheels instead because he didn't want to
spend the money on new gearing and already has the lift needed for
them with his 3" body lift. I plan to unsuscribe after tomorrow's set of
digests. I may be back from time to time on my friends behalf,if that is ok
with the administrator. Til then , thanks again and goodbye
Stan
1995 Eagle Talon Tsi 4x4
P.S. Kevin Watters you are quite the jokester.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 10:53:00 -0500
From: "Eli Madden" Subject: Studded Snow Tires
To: toy4x4@tlca.org
Somebody was talking about running Nokia Hakepalitas (sp?). I live in Vermont and they are definately VERY popular around here, though they are a bit expensive. When I bought snow tires for my Subaru Wagon (an '86 so it has low range!) I looked at Hakkas but got a set of studded Goodyears for a $100 less. They still have a ton of sipes and with the studs I don't worry about ice. I have been VERY impressed with the Subaru. I hate to say it, but it definately does better than my Toy on icy, slushy, snowy,
freezing, wet roads. It's because the 165/80R13 tires are only about 5-6 inches wide and they cut right down through the snow. We are having an ice storm since last night and it's still raining and freezing and I have had TOTAL CONTROL the whole time. I run 31 x 10.5 studded Trailbuster DTs (Tire Warehouse) mudders on my Toy and it floats a little more than the Suby on slush and snow. The Toy will slide a little, still controlled, where the Subaru just bites in and grabs. It's fun to blow past $30,000+
sport utes in my $1200 Subaru or $2000 (resell value, bought it for $1000) '83 Toy Pickup
About studs - STUD ALL FOUR TIRES. If you stud just the rear you will not notice the tires spinning on ice until it's time to brake, at which point you will slide and CRASH. If you stud just the front ( a lot of people do this with front wheel drive cars) you stand a very good chance of going into a spin when the rear cuts loose on ice.
A good set of tires is a lot cheaper than wrecking your vehicle. Not to mention safety! I will not drive in the winter without studs. I wrecked a car on black ice when I was 18, luckily nobody was hurt, but it only had worn studs on the front and all seasons (summer tires) on the rear.
Running bad tires not only endangers yourself, but also everyone else on the road.
I love bad weather!
Eli Madden
emadden@inacom-vt.com
'83 Toyota Shortbed SR-5 4x4 Pickup
'86 Subaru GL 4x4 Wagon (with low range!)
ps.
A quick story - last Friday I was driving home from finishing a service call "on the other side of the mountain" in Barre. I went over the Mad River gap on route 17. It gets VERY steep and twisty. We were having a HUGE snowstorm and I came up behind a Grand Cherokee just as the road was getting steep and winding. I stuck right to his butt (safely, not tailgating). He was getting away from me on the staightaways, but I could power around the corners (Subaru), where he was trying to but sliding and having to
let off the gas. Pretty funny. Then we got to the top and started down. The first section is VERY, VERY steep and he started to slide and fishtail. I was in 4-hi 1st and the compression braking wasn't slowing me down enough and when I touched the brakes I would start to slide. So I shifted into 4-lo and INSTANT TRACTION. I watched that guy bounce off the right snow bank, then the left, then straighten out. The cars in front of him were doing the same thing. Good thing nobody was coming the other way! I just
put on my 4-way flashers in case anybody else came up behind us and crawled along at 5 mph, in total control. It was pretty cool.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 11:41:02 -0800 (PST)
From: Michael Ken Chen Subject: super swampers 31x13.5
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
i was wondering who wrote this... does a 31x13.5 really fit on a
extra-cab w/o a lift? is there any rubbing? and what is the backspacing
on this... also, one more thing is there a picture of what it looks
like... ok, hate to be annoying, but i was wondering how well does these
super swampers perform in rain, snow and regular road conditions...
please respond cuz i was thinking of changing my tires soon. and i don't
really feel like getting a lift right now... thanks...
-mike
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 08:02:34 -0500
From: "NUNES, ROB" Subject: Supra Engine Availability
To: "'Toy4x4@tlca.org'" I remember reading an article in an "off road" type magazine about 6
years ago. The article showed how to put in a Supra 6 into a pick-up. It
did fit with firewall modification. I made a phone call to the "garage"
that did the install. They had no helpful information that I could use.
They said it was a one time experiment, and they would not do it again.
After hearing the negative response from them and the fact that I have
never seen this done to any of the modified Toyotas in my travels, I
decided that it is not an option.> ----------> From: Craig Blanchette[SMTP:blanchet@cnx.net]> Reply To: Toy4x4@tlca.org> Sent: Wednesday, January 07, 1998 6:49 PM> To: Toy4x4@tlca.org> Subject: Re: Supra Engine Availability>> The Supra engine is way to long to fit into a truck. Remember that it> is 6> cyl long and people have fun just getting a 350 into a toy. I had> origionally thought of this until I got out the tape measure. Not> going to> happen>> ====> Craig Blanchette> blanchet@cnx.net> http://www.cnx.net/~blanchet> ====> -----Original Message-----> From: Keith & Christy > To: Toy4x4@tlca.org > Date: Wednesday, January 07, 1998 8:56 AM> Subject: Supra Engine Availability>>>> Are there any Hotrod engines from the Celica Supra that would> make>>good candidates for the Toyota Trucks? Someone mentioned a I-6 from> a>>Supra, wouldn't that be a more straight forward swap than a Buick V-6> or>>a Chevy 4.3/5.7 or even a Ford 5.0? I think the 22r's swap back and>>forth between the Trucks and the Celica's, are there any other> options?>>How about a Twin Turbo from a late model Supra, any takers?>>>>-->> Keith Campbell>>/////////////\\\\\\\\\\\\>>Si Vis Pacem, Para Bellum>>> ------------------------------
Date: Thu, 08 Jan 98 12:25:05 -0600
From: bwiencek@kcnet.com
Subject: Supra Engine Availability
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org>> Are there any Hotrod engines from the Celica Supra that would make>> good candidates for the Toyota Trucks? Someone mentioned a I-6 from a>> Supra, wouldn't that be a more straight forward swap than a Buick V-6 or>> a Chevy 4.3/5.7 or even a Ford 5.0? I think the 22r's swap back and>> forth between the Trucks and the Celica's, are there any other options?>> How about a Twin Turbo from a late model Supra, any takers?>>The supra I6 is way too long for our engine bay. The cressida has a>torquey six as well, but it too is too long.
Well, they're right the ening is long, but it depends how deep your pockets
are... I KNOW the turbo supra engine has been done, but the front end was
lengthened by about 6"+ to accomidate the engine this was definately a street
driven truck.... (lowers approach angle for us 4 whelers)
The swaps to the carbed v6's & v8's are real straight forward, and the
easiest ones are those that use the factory toy transmission (may not be the
most durable, but definately the easiest.)
Given the availability of the Ford 5.0 / T-5 adapter, I'd have to say this
would be my new first choice for a engine swap. A nice 225 hp roller-cammed
engine, coupled by a strong late-model T-5 would make an excellent trail
vehicle.
- - Brian
- - Brian
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 10:19:03 -0800
From: John McCool Subject: Tacoma Gearing
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
I have a Tacoma with 3.91 gearing and, after increasing my tire size to 32
x 11.50 would like to change the gearing. I'm wondering if there are any
gears available for this truck? If so, what gear ratio should I go to,
keeping in mind I will soon have 33's on the truck? While we're at it,
does ARB make an Air Locker for it?
Thanks for anyones insight.
John
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 12:40:51 -0600 (CST)
From: "Bruce Burden" Subject: Tacoma Gearing
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org>> I have a Tacoma with 3.91 gearing and, after increasing my tire size to 32> x 11.50 would like to change the gearing. I'm wondering if there are any> gears available for this truck? If so, what gear ratio should I go to,> Sure. Toyota makes 4.10's for the Taco. About $600.00 per SET.
Motive Gear is supposedly releasing R&P's in March - call them
and find out how it is going. The more people calling and asking
for R&P's, the more likely Motive will be to offer them.>> While we're at it, does ARB make an Air Locker for it?> Not currently. The rear axle changed enough that R&P's
or lockers for the pre-Taco's will NOT work in the Taco. The
only lockers currently available for the Taco are the
LockRite from PowerTrax.
Bruce
- --
- -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bruce Burden bruceb@isd.tandem.com Tandem Computers Inc.
512-432-8944 Network Verification 14231 Tandem Blvd.
Auto answer(4 rings) Austin, TX 78726
------------------------------
Date: 08 Jan 98 12:01:16 PST
From: Norman.Goetz@directory.reed.edu (Norman Goetz)
Subject: Tacoma Gearing
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
- --- You wrote:
I have a Tacoma with 3.91 gearing and, after increasing my tire size to 32
x 11.50 would like to change the gearing. I'm wondering if there are any
gears available for this truck? If so, what gear ratio should I go to,
keeping in mind I will soon have 33's on the truck?
- --- end of quote ---
You don't say what year, but I assume 95 1/2 or later. I think the only
possibility is 4.10, one of the other stock ratios from toyota, but it's a
cloudy picture and you should probably get your axle code from the plate in the
driver's door and find someone who knows. I'm waiting for Toyota or someone
aftermarket to offer at least 4.56.
Norman
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 10:43:57 -0500
From: Ed.Wong@astramerck.com
Subject: Tall and Skinny Sno Tyres
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Nokia Tyres (yes - they make cell phones too - or used to,
they spun off the tyre side from the phone side)
Many tyre shops in the VT/NH area will stock Nokia Hakkapeliittas
or you can call Greer Ent - 414/545-2296.
They will sell retail to you - or wholesale to a dealer
(who then can sell retail to you)
Ewong>>> I have never heard of Nokia tires.
Where can I find them?
Where did you buy them?
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 15:41:34 -0600 (CST)
From: gfrancis@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (Greg S. Francis)
Subject: Timing Chain Cover Stuck
To: toy4x4@tlca.org
I am in the middle of replacing the timing chain on my 22re, due to a
broken guide. I have read several accounts of people managing to remove
the chain cover without pulling the head OR dropping the oil pan. I am
curious what trick you used to accomplish this. I have removed all the
bolts from the timing cover (yes, even the hidden ones), and cannot get it
to budge. It is pretty well sandwiched between the head and pan. Also, if
this does not work, how far do I have to drop the pan. I have a Rancho 3"
lift, will I have to remove the diff (IFS)?
Thanks for any help.
Greg
Greg S. Francis
University of Texas @ Austin
School of Architecture
gfrancis@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu
TLCA Member #5558
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 08 Jan 98 15:55:32 -0600
From: bwiencek@kcnet.com
Subject: Timing Chain Cover Stuck
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
On Thu, 8 Jan 1998, gfrancis@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (Greg S. Francis) wrote:>bolts from the timing cover (yes, even the hidden ones), and cannot get it>to budge. It is pretty well sandwiched between the head and pan. Also, if>this does not work, how far do I have to drop the pan. I have a Rancho 3">lift, will I have to remove the diff (IFS)?
Simply loosen the pan by taking the front bolts out, and letting the back
bolts loose (it will drop a bit in the front, but stay attached to the engine
in the back. You should then be able to get the cover off without dropping
the pan completely. Remember to replace the crank seal and check for grooves
in the harmonic balancer to prevent an oil leak later.
- - Brian
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 08 Jan 98 09:23:46 -0600
From: bwiencek@kcnet.com
Subject: TRD cam for 22RE
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
On Wed, 7 Jan 1998, DRM033 wrote:>I just got the TRD catalog, and was checking out the low to mid-range cam>offer. all that duration & lift stuff is Greek to me, but they say it>offers a smooth idle and works with the factory EFI. RPM range: idle to>4800. Is this just the factory cam? (had to ask...) price is only $129.>>How does this compare to other cams? I figured a Toyota part would be the>best, and the price is not bad. How hard is it to install a cam?
What are the specs of the cam? I had one of their old 22R (not e) cams in my
20R/22R combo, and can say for sure it runs out of steam at 5000 rpm - when
they say it's good to 5K they mean it... That combo sure could have used more
cam.
For comparison :
For 1975 and up 20R's and non EFI 22R's:
Intake Duration- 272 degrees
Exhaust Duration- 248 degrees
Intake Lift- 10.1 mm
Exhaust Lift- 9.7 mm
For EFI 22R's:
Intake Duration- 248 degrees
Exhaust Duration- 280 degrees
Intake Lift- 10.0 mm
Exhaust Lift- 9.7 mm
I don't have lobe centers on these, but that should give you a basis for
comparison. Let us know what the specs are, since I am in the market for a
cam soon.
- - Brian
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 12:19:58 EST
From: DRM033 Subject: TRD cam for 22RE
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org>> What are the specs of the cam? I had one of their old 22R (not e) cams in> my> 20R/22R combo, and can say for sure it runs out of steam at 5000 rpm - when> they say it's good to 5K they mean it... That combo sure could have used> more> cam.
here it is. wanna explain later if it is worth it?
20R/22RE - idle to 4800, low to mid-range (the one I wanted)
intake 10.5 mm
exhaust 10.9 mm
duration int. 262 degrees
duration exh. 272 degrees
duration at .050" lift - int:214, exh:224
20R/22RE - 1600 - 5200 , mid-range, notes about EFI rough idle, needs
header/perf. exhaust
intake 10.9 mm
exhaust 11.3 mm
duration int. 272 degrees
duration exh. 282 degrees
one more, from 2000 - 5700, let me know if you want it too. needs lots of
engine work for it.
oh yeah, only the first says smog legal, the rest say off road, and the first
says 10% HP increase
- ---------------------------------------------------------------------
David Moore DRM033@aol.com
90 Toyota Truck - 4" ProComp, 33" Swampers,
4.88's, rear ARB, TJM bumper & Ramsey #8000
TLCA #5662
Traxx In Motion 4 Wheel Drive Club
- ---------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 08 Jan 98 12:24:14 -0600
From: bwiencek@kcnet.com
Subject: TRD cam for 22RE
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
On Thu, 8 Jan 1998, DRM033 wrote:>>>> What are the specs of the cam? I had one of their old 22R (not e) cams
>here it is. wanna explain later if it is worth it?
<> Cam Grind Int Dur Exh Dur Int Lift Exh lift
Stock 22R 272 248 10.1 9.7
stock 22RE 248 280 10.0 9.7
TRD 0-4800 262 272 10.5 10.9
TRD 1600-5200 272 282 10.9 11.3
Ok, generally speaking increasing duration moves the power UP the RPM range
(as evidenced by the rpm rating's.), but it also sacrifices idle, since the
mixture in the intake will be moving slower, and have less scavanging at low
RPM's... Higher lift allows for more air flow, but you really don't know a
cam until you look at lobe center, overlap, and the actual profile (how fast
it gets into the higher lifts) Interesting thing that they increased the
intake duration & lift considerably while decreasing the exhaust duration,
but increasing the lift - my guess is that they're trying to shift some of
the power down to teh rpm range where most of us drive on the street to give
good 'seat of the pants' feel
Check out the Comp Cam's Valve timing pages at:
http://www.compcams.com/valvtim1.html (go to next pages)
this probably will explain a lot that I won't duplicate here.
for a more detailed explanation>one more, from 2000 - 5700, let me know if you want it too. needs lots of>engine work for it.
Let me know the specs on this one - and if anyone has a NWOR and Downey
Catalog available, Send me those specs and we can compare ! Fun !
- - Brian
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 11:38:38 -0800 (PST)
From: Michael Ken Chen Subject: TRD catalog
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
how do i get a TRD catalog?
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 11:48:22 -0800
From: Scott Wilson Subject: TRD catalog
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Michael Ken Chen wrote:>> how do i get a TRD catalog?
You might try you local dealer. I saw some sittin in the parts dept.
last time I was at Steven's Creek. After thumbing through though, I
didn't want to own one. 95% of the stuff in it is for MR2's and
Supra's.
Scott
- --
_____
/_/_|_\__ Scott Wilson
| _ _ : Santa Clara, CA
*/_\---/_\' http://www.off-road.com/~swilson
(_) (_)
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
------------------------------
Date: 08 Jan 98 12:06:51 PST
From: Norman.Goetz@directory.reed.edu (Norman Goetz)
Subject: TRD catalog
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
- --- You wrote:
how do i get a TRD catalog?
- --- end of quote ---
It's on the www.toyota.com web site somewhere - I've lost the address.
Norman
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 11:50:01 -0500
From: "Wilbur M. Yegge" Subject: two piece th350 adapter
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Does anyone know if the two piece th350 transfer case adapter that
sheldon has work in an 85' 4x4?..even though it is listed as a part for the
79'-83'?...i dont mind havin to do a little driveshaft work(lenghten or
whatever) cause i'll be savin a bundle buyin it from sheldon. As long as
that sucker bolts up i'll make it work...THANKS!!
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 10:38:49 -0500
From: Ed.Wong@astramerck.com
Subject: Whining T-Case
To: toy4x4@tlca.org
Jay (et. al.)
Those of us on the East coast are always jealous of the low cost
of parts in 'yards in the very dry (and less bureaucratic)
SouthWest...
Really - Ive checked - and 'yards up here charge 2x to 3x what
prices you seem to be able to find....Perhaps I oughtta call
yrads down your way (but returns and inspections are a
PITA that way)
EWong
------------------------------
The views expressed in Toy4x4 are those of the individual authors only.
Be sure to check out the OFFROAD MAILING LIST.
Subscription requests can be sent to: offroad-request@off-road.com
End of Toy4x4 Digest
******************************

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