Toy4x4 Digest          Mon,  5 Jan 98 12:30:03 (HST)  Volume 1 : Issue 637
 Today's Topics:
 1998 Tacoma Opinions (One more...)
 1 gen 4Runner found
 36's For Sale
 8" Full Floater/Disc Brakes (2 msgs)
 87 transmission (2 msgs)
 88 V6 transmissions (2 msgs)
 bio
 Disc Brakes
 Gen1 4runner for sale?
 Halogen Headlights (2 msgs)
 Hella Halogens
 Hi-Lift
 How many bananas for LSD Install. (4 msgs)
 IFS Megatravel
 LC Engineering
 Oiling K&N filters  (was re: 1998 Tacoma)
 Part Numbers? (2 msgs)
 Possible Ban on ALL SUSPENSION MODS in Colorado (2 msgs)
 Re: How many bananas for LSD Install.
 Reader's Rides page
 SV: Toy4x4 Digest V1 #635
 The best tires?
 Toy4x4 Digest V1 #629
 Toy4x4 Digest V1 #635
 Transmission Identification
 Water Pump Weep Hole
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 ----------------------------------------------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 10:50:31 -0600
 From: "James E Triplett" Subject: 1998 Tacoma Opinions (One more...)
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 When I went to look at a new Tacoma in 1996 I ended up buying a T100 for
 about the same money.  I don't know how "Hot" the 98 Tacos are... but it's
 a supply and demand thing.  The least popular vehicle gets the biggest
 discount.  What are the prices for Taco vs. T100 these days?
 On the unrelated topic of "Off Topic" postings...  Let's just make good use
 of the subject line.  The subject lines which start "Re: Toyota Digest..."
 are obviously useless.  If you respond to one of these, change the subject.
 Also the addition of such words as "Reply", "Editorial", "Suggestion",
 "Additional Information", "Additional Information Needed", etc. after the
 original subject line could be helpful.  In general we do a pretty good job
 with this, it's just all those replies to "digest" which get old.
 BTW, has anyone had problems with the K&N filter cleaning kit?  I went to
 use mine for the first time Saturday (I ordered the cleaning kit with the
 filter from Performance) and the aerosol oil can provided a dribble of oil
 rather than a spray.  I have a paper element installed now, and probably
 should just buy another spray can now that I have discovered where to buy
 them locally, but I wasn't too happy.  Is it worth calling Performance
 Products?  Probably not if I have to ship the old one back.
 Thanks for Listening...
 James E. Triplett
 1996 T100 ExtraCab
 jetriple@crnotes.cca.rockwell.com
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 10:28:21 -0500
 From: Rick  Subject: 1 gen 4Runner found
 To: "'toy4x4@tlca.org'"  Thanks to all who replied to my post searching for a 1st gen 4Runner for my
 little brother.  I found one down in Atlanta last week.  It's a very nice
 87 SR5.  Picked it up for $4400.
 Rick ( rjhrfam@worldnet.att.net )
 - 83 FJ60
 - 88 4Runner SR5 V6 5spd (mine)
 - - 94 4Runner SR5 V6 auto (hers)
 Member- Carolina Cruisers, CNC 4x4, Toyota Land Cruiser Association
 TLCA #5042
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 15:02:07 EST
 From: Jnstumbaug  Subject: 36's For Sale
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Please post to your list, thanks, J.
 For Sale:
 5 new 36" x 12.5 x 15" Interco Super Swamper TSL/SX's on 15" x 8" black spoke
 steel rims.   Never used!   I paid over $1200 and will sell for $900 obo.
 UPS shippable, I will pay for half of shipping if applicable.
 Thanks,
 John Stumbaugh
 [Located in the DC Metro area (No. VA)]
 jnstumbaug@AOL.com
 703-573-9624 home
 703-277-4233 pager
 TLCA and CLCC
 `79 Toyota FJ 40
 Shopping for a 84 to 85 Mini and a new internet provider [as AOL user I can't
 subscribe to this list].
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 05 Jan 1998 08:38:06 +0000
 From: "Jay Kopycinski"  Subject: 8" Full Floater/Disc Brakes
 To: Toyota 4x4 List  "Vic & Lorelei"  wrote:>    Doesn't the Dana 60 have an axle with the 35 splin shafts? Could you not>use those axles and have them cut down? There is probably already a cut down>axle already available form a hi-performance shop for race cars...??
 Dana 60 axles are very close to the diameter of Toy axles.>    I am going to be building a disk brake setup for the rear of my 81' Toy.>I am going to be using the front calipers and rotors off of my truck. I will>have the inside of the rotor machined to slip over the axle shaft and right>on the studs. Then I will be building caliper mounts. I have a set of rear>calipers and rotors off a 88' Pontiac Grand Prix with the e-brake built in>to them. To compensate for the increase in braking power on the rear I will>be upgrading the front to the vented rotors and calipers off of an 85' - 88'>PU.
 Think you mean '86-up here.......>Does this sound like it will work? Any comments?
 The front Toy rotors can't be installed from the outside to a rear
 axle flange.....even with the rotor center machined. You would have
 to also machine down the outside diameter of the axle flange.
 Jay Kopycinski    '85 Toylet  (ROKTOY)
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 05 Jan 1998 08:44:59 +0000
 From: "Jay Kopycinski"  Subject: 8" Full Floater/Disc Brakes
 To: Toyota 4x4 List  breeze@cysource.com (Jeffrey Delzer) wrote:
 snip>Another friend told me later that I should have busted a rear axle doing>that, because Toy's aren't supposed to be used hard in 2-Lo, but I>didn't hear a creak and all was well forever after. Is it really that>easy to break a rear axle doing that? I thought Nissan's were the only>trucks with weak axle shafts.
 When you shift the transfer case into low you have then essentially
 multiplied the available torque (and stress) to the components
 downstream by the transfer case ratio. When in 4 low the available
 torque is distributed to 4 tires. When in 2 low, all that torque is
 directed to just 2 tires. All the Toy parts are quite strong, you just
 want to be a little gentler if in 2 low.
 Please note, this is meant to be a simple explanation. My exact
 tech terms may not be completely accurate.........>See? I can talk about things other than stereos.
 We knew you could ;-)
 Jay Kopycinski    '85 Toylet   (ROKTOY)
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 15:11:45 -0500
 From: Rick  Subject: 87 transmission
 To: "'Toy4x4@tlca.org'"  I am stumped again.  I just bought an 87 4Runner for my little brother
 Friday.  When I picked it up it was a little hard to shift, and the clutch
 was engaging when the pedal just came off the floor.  Thinking it was no
 big deal I drove it back to NC yesterday, and it worked fine.  This morning
 I could not get it into gear.  I tried to adjust the push-rod to pick the
 pedal up, but it had no effect.  I replaced the clutch m/c because the push
 rod had fluid on it.  Still after bleeding it won't go into gear until you
 first put it in reverse.  I have adjusted it so that the clutch engages at
 the very top of the pedal, but once I stop it will not go into any forward
 gear until I first put it in reverse, or turn it off.  The clutch was
 replaced 10k miles ago along with pressure plate, t/o bearing and flywheel
 resurfacing.  However, that was 350 miles away and under the former owner
 so the warranty is no good. Also, placing it in reverse knocks the t/c
 shifter into 4hi 9 of ten times.  Any suggestions?
 Rick ( rjhrfam@worldnet.att.net )
 - 83 FJ60
 - 88 4Runner SR5 V6 5spd (mine)
 - - 94 4Runner SR5 V6 auto (hers)
 Member- Carolina Cruisers, CNC 4x4, Toyota Land Cruiser Association
 TLCA #5042
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 05 Jan 1998 15:27:05 -0800
 From: "Karl Bellve, PhD"  Subject: 87 transmission
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Rick wrote:>> first put it in reverse.  I have adjusted it so that the clutch engages at> the very top of the pedal, but once I stop it will not go into any forward> gear until I first put it in reverse, or turn it off.  The clutch was> replaced 10k miles ago along with pressure plate, t/o bearing and flywheel> resurfacing.  However, that was 350 miles away and under the former owner> so the warranty is no good. Also, placing it in reverse knocks the t/c> shifter into 4hi 9 of ten times.  Any suggestions?
 When I had to replace my clutch, I also had to replace the clutch slave
 cylinder. It seemed the the push rod had rusted when it was extended.
 When the clutch was replaced, the push rod was moved back into the slave
 cylinder, but it wasn't sealing as well due to the corrosion of the push
 rod which is now next to the seal. I couldn't change gears. I just
 replaced the clutch slave cylinder and that fixed it.>> Rick ( rjhrfam@worldnet.att.net )>  - 83 FJ60>  - 88 4Runner SR5 V6 5spd (mine)> - 94 4Runner SR5 V6 auto (hers)> Member- Carolina Cruisers, CNC 4x4, Toyota Land Cruiser Association> TLCA #5042
 - --
 Karl Bellve, Ph.D.
 Biomedical Imaging Group
 University of Massachusetts
 email: kdb@molmed.ummed.edu
 www  : http://molmed.ummed.edu/~kdb/
 phone: 508-856-3785
 fax  : 508-856-1840
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 10:07:22 -0500
 From: Ed.Wong@astramerck.com
 Subject: 88 V6 transmissions
 To: Emanuel@csus.edu, Toy4X4@tlca.org
 Acording to the chart that I had (which *may* have had a typo)
 YES - the 88 V6 did have the same tranny as the 4 cycl turbo -
 altogh I doubt the bell housing matched. Marlin may know this
 info best...
 1985 Truck     RN        4x2  22R     W46     4 spd man
 22-RE   W56     5 spd man
 A43D    4 spd auto
 A340E   4 spd auto
 RN        4x4  22R     G52     5 spd man
 22-RE   W56     5 spd man
 A340H   4 spd auto
 LN        4x2  2L      G52     5 spd man
 2L-T    W56     5 spd man
 4x4  2L-T    W56     5 spd man
 LandCruiser         FJ           2F      H42  4 spd man
 1986 Truck     RN        4x2  22R     W46     4 spd man
 22-RE   W56     5 spd man
 22-RTE  G52     5 spd man
 R150    5 spd man
 A43D    4 spd auto
 A340E   4 spd auto
 RN        4x4  22R     G52     5 spd man
 22-RE   W56     5 spd man
 22-RTE  R151F   5 spd man
 A340H   4 spd auto
 LandCruiser         FJ           2F      H42  4 spd man
 1987 Truck     RN        4x2  22R     W46     4 spd man
 22-RE   W55     5 spd man
 22-RTE  W56     5 spd man
 R150    5 spd man
 A43D    4 spd auto
 RN        4x4  22R     G52     5 spd man
 22-RE   W56     5 spd man
 22-RTE  R151F   5 spd man
 A340H   4 spd auto
 LandCruiser         FJ           2F      H42  4 spd man
 1988 Truck     RN        4x2  22R     G40     4 spd man
 22-RE   W46     4 spd man
 22-RTE  W55     5 spd man
 RN/VN                  W56     5 spd man
 A43D    4 spd auto
 RN        4x4  22R     G58     5 spd man
 22-RE   W56     5 spd man
 22-RTE  R151F   5 spd man
 RN/VN          3VZ-E   A340H   4 spd auto
 LandCruiser         FJ           3F-E    A440H     4 spd auto
 1989 Truck     RN        4x2  22R     G40     4 spd man
 22-RE   W46     4 spd man
 RN/VN          3VZ-E   G57     5 spd man
 W55     5 spd man
 R150    5 spd man
 A43D    4 spd auto
 A340E   4 spd auto
 RN/VN     4x4  (22R)?  G58     5 spd man
 RN             22-RE   W56     5 spd man
 RN/VN          3VZ-E   R151F   5 spd man
 A340H   4 spd auto
 LandCruiser         FJ           3F-E    A440H     4 spd auto>>> Speaking of this, does anyone know if the 1988 V6 trucks used the same 5
 speed transmission that was designed for the turbo 4 cylinder?  I know
 that '89 brought on a new transmission that was based on the Supra 5
 speed, even though the Supra engine is an inline 6.  I'm curious because
 the '89 and up trannys are higher geared.
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 10:25:40 -0500
 From: Rick  Subject: 88 V6 transmissions
 To: "'Toy4x4@tlca.org'"  If anyone knows, I would really like to know if the 88V6 had the all-gear t-case that the 87 Turbo had.
 Rick ( rjhrfam@worldnet.att.net )
 - 83 FJ60
 - 88 4Runner SR5 V6 5spd (mine)
 - - 94 4Runner SR5 V6 auto (hers)
 Member- Carolina Cruisers, CNC 4x4, Toyota Land Cruiser Association
 TLCA #5042
 - -----Original Message-----
 From:	Ed.Wong@astramerck.com [SMTP:Ed.Wong@astramerck.com]
 Sent:	Monday, January 05, 1998 10:07 AM
 To:	Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Subject:	88 V6 transmissions
 Acording to the chart that I had (which *may* have had a typo)
 YES - the 88 V6 did have the same tranny as the 4 cycl turbo -
 altogh I doubt the bell housing matched. Marlin may know this
 info best...
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 05 Jan 1998 14:14:32 -0600
 From: John Schultz  Subject: bio
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org> I found your mailing list on the OffRoad website, I recently purchased a rebuilt 84 toyota and> have slowly been customizing as money will allow. It now has a custom cd stereo system with> Kenwood and Bazooka componets, B&M shifter, Grant steering wheels, custom made front bumper,
 Dual Steering Wheels!  Now that is unique:)
 John
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 05 Jan 98 10:56:50 -0600
 From: bwiencek@kcnet.com
 Subject: Disc Brakes
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 On Mon, 05 Jan 1998, "Jay Kopycinski"  wrote:>>    I am going to be building a disk brake setup for the rear of my 81'>>I am going to be using the front calipers and rotors off of my truck. I>>have the inside of the rotor machined to slip over the axle shaft and right>>on the studs. Then I will be building caliper mounts. I have a set of rear>>calipers and rotors off a 88' Pontiac Grand Prix with the e-brake built in>The front Toy rotors can't be installed from the outside to a rear>axle flange.....even with the rotor center machined. You would have>to also machine down the outside diameter of the axle flange.
 Bummer, I had access to a pair of Celica (GTS??) rear disc brake calipers
 that would fit a non-vented type rotor, and was hoping that they would fit.
 I was going to go scrounge the local u-wrench-it for parts this weekend but
 by the time I got things done saturday it was 30 degrees outside, and I am
 getting wimpier about scrounging junkyards in below freezing weather.  I
 guess I need to look for a bigger set of calipers that will fit the Chevy
 rotors.  I was hoping to keep a smaller piston so I didn't have to upgrade
 the Master cylinder.
 - - Brian
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 10:17:43 -0500
 From: Ed.Wong@astramerck.com
 Subject: Gen1 4runner for sale?
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org
 No - my Yota aint fer sale but I did see this on the road on the way to work...
 Its a Gen1 4Runner - SR5 V6 (which means 88 or early 89)
 probably an 88 as it has the "trailer" type side mirrors
 Manual tranny
 Sports seats
 (no sunroof as I recall)
 Manual Warn hubs (I did not look to see if it had the ADD)
 Aftermarket cruise control
 I could only see what appeared to be 20K on the odo -
 I presume therefore 120K
 rust free on the tailgate (window top) AND rust free in the wheel well
 arches (I checked the pass side only)
 Looks like it was pretty stock - probably used as a "station wagon"
 Brown exterior - brown interior
 No I did not check for rear seat belts, turdmostadt or liquid nails :)
 asking $7,200
 phone 610.647-8737
 EWong
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 10:02:10 -0500
 From: Ed.Wong@astramerck.com
 Subject: Halogen Headlights
 To: Gregg20@ix.netcom.com, toy4x4@tlca.org
 Gregg:
 Before ya spend money on "biggie" H4 bulbs - try the 55/60s that
 come with the Hella's - they're already paid for :)
 One of the other problems in NOT upgrading the wires is that the
 voltage at the bulb "drops" below the desireable 14.4v range.
 This can dramatically shorten bulb life (a real PITA when you
 run PIAA ION bulbs which cost MUCHO Dinero)
 I have the Hella (euro type) H4 upgrades - the difference is
 amazing. I really dont seem to "need" a long range light
 - - even driving at high speeds on back highways. And I run the 55/60
 bulbs (as they are easier to find).
 EWong
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 22:25:01 +0100
 From: "Andy Inman"  Subject: Halogen Headlights
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org> I know this topic was discussed a week ago so I will make this short.  I> plan on buying a pair of Hella Vision Plus H4 headlights from> Performance Products.  I believe they come with 55/60 bulbs.  I was> thinking of purchasing the 100/150 H4 bulbs from NWOR and putting them> in to replace the 55/60's.  I know that buy putting such a high wattage> bulb I will have to get a new wiring harness and relays.
 I've recently replaced the standard 55/60 bulbs with 80/100 without
 upgrading the wiring, with no problems.
 I'm not much of an expert on mechanics, but I do know about
 electrics - excuse me if you know this stuff but here's some of the
 science behind it (hope I don't bore you too much!)  There are two
 reasons for upgrading wiring, one is to avoid melting the wires, but
 the other is to make sure you're actually getting full power out of
 the bulbs.
 Power (in Watts) is Voltage times Current (Amps).  So a 60W bulb at
 12V wants to get 5 Amps of current, and it follows that the
 electrical resistance (measured in Ohms) of the bulb is 12/5 =   2.4
 Ohms (this is from "Ohm's Law", that Voltage = Current x
 Resistance).  From these two rules you can also get Power = Current
 x Current x Resistance.
 There will be some loss in the wiring, becuase it has a small
 electrical resistance.  Let's say the wiring has a resistance of 0.1
 Ohms.  The total resistance of the wiring plus bulb is then 2.4+0.1
 = 2.5 Ohms.  So the actual current in the system will be 12/2.5 = 4.8
 Amps.  This means your 60W bulb is actually getting 4.8 x 4.8 x 2.4 =
 55W, and the wiring is getting 4.8 x 4.8 x 0.1 = 2.3W (which heats up
 the wires very slightly).
 Now, if in the same system you use a 150W bulb this is what happens:
 The resistance of the bulb is 0.96 Ohms.  The total resistance of the
 circuit becomes 0.96 + 0.1 = 1.06 Ohms, and the current is 12/1.06 =
 11.3 Amps.  The bulb actually gets only 11.3 x 11.3 x 0.96 = 123W and
 the wiring gets 11.3 x 11.3 x 0.1 = 12.8W.
 So whereas the 60W bulb was operating at 92% of it's rated power, the
 150W bulb achieves only 82% of its rated power.  Furthermore, by
 increasing the bulb rating by a factor of 2.5 you've increased the
 power lost in the wiring by a factor of 5.6 (and that's the power
 that melts the wires if you take it too far).  The situation is worse
 if the wiring has a higher resistance, which it may do, particularly
 due to oxidisation or poor connections.
 In reality, 12.8W of power heating the wiring is not going to make it
 very hot, so I wouldn't worry about it, but maybe you don't want only
 123W out of your 160W bulbs?  Using thicker wires and maybe relays
 solves the problem (so long as your connections are good!)
 To work the above out in real life you need to know the actual
 resitance of your wiring (this depends on the thickness of the wire,
 but also how much of it has oxidised, and how good the connections at
 the bulb and elsewhere are.  Measure the voltage at the battery or
 fuse box and the voltage accross the bulb.  The difference is the
 voltage drop in the wiring and you can work out the resistance of the
 wiring from the above.  NB: With the engine on (and the alternator
 running) you're operating on something like 13.5V rather than 12V, so
 it all changes slightly.
 Hope this helps :)
 - -AndyI-
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 08:29:53 -0800
 From: "Don M. West"  Subject: Hella Halogens
 To: Toyota 4x4 mailing list  as written and replied in part:>If for>> some reason the 100/150's are not a good choice would you recommend the>> 80/100 or the 90/130.  Thanks in advance>> ____________________>>I TRUELY believe you won't get away with any of the bulbs you're>interested in.  You'll be pulled over ALL the time.
 Take Scott's advice on that one...the 100+ low beams will likely get you
 red lights in your rear view mirror *:) I put a set in my truck a few
 months ago; and to save $$$ right off I stuck with the standard H4's that
 come with them (what...the 55/80 or something like that). Anyway, I get
 high beamed from time to time on low, and also point out that these are
 already on low beam! They do seem to put out more light than stock sealed
 beams, that's for sure. I aimed them according to the Haynes specs (I used
 a wall in my work's parking garage and measured off all the distances - the
 right bulb had be far off aim as it was; I think the ex-owner had changed a
 bulb or done some work and screwed up the aim). Well, the aim is set
 according to those specs, but keeping in mind the truck sits a lot higher
 than a car (and I'm at stock height with 31" BFGs) the lights seem to
 travel a lot farther anyway. Scott has recommended to use a dark, straight
 road at night to check if the aim meets your needs. With the brighter bulbs
 you may want to lower their aim just a bit.
 PS...don't ever piss off Scott if he's behind you...when he kicks in ALL
 his lights it looks like a 747 landing with a freight train tied to its
 roof!!!! *:P
 Don
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 07:11:48 -0800
 From: "Farrales, Deo"  Subject: Hi-Lift
 To: "'Toy4x4@tlca.org'"  Hey guys,
 I was in the process of looking for a hi-lift jack when I remembered
 reading about a certain type or make I'm suppose to look for.  I think
 it was supposed to be stamped w/ something????  Anyway, if anyone can
 give me info on what to look for I'd really appreciate it.  (and maybe
 some prices)
 Please respond to me directly as well as to the list (digest mode).
 Thanks in advance!!!
 Deo F.   ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 05 Jan 1998 13:39:06 -0800
 From: "Karl Bellve, PhD"  Subject: How many bananas for LSD Install.
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Norman Goetz wrote:>> --- You wrote:> FWIW: The trutrac DOES require R&P setup, special bearings for the front> if ifs, etc. It replaces the carrier.> --- end of quote --->> Yes, that's what I was thinking.  Any time the carrier is replaced you would at> a minimum need to measure and verify correct R&P setup afterward.>> Norman
 Ok, does it or does it not need R&P setup? James Brink said no. I
 thought if you didn't want to change gearing, then it would be simple to
 put in a true-trac. If you still need to set up R&P, then you might as
 well change your gears, if you need to. Can you explain why changing the
 case requires R&P to be set up if they are not removed?
 - --
 Karl Bellve, Ph.D.
 Biomedical Imaging Group
 University of Massachusetts
 email: kdb@molmed.ummed.edu
 www  : http://molmed.ummed.edu/~kdb/
 phone: 508-856-3785
 fax  : 508-856-1840
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 11:25:28 -0800
 From: Eric Johnson  Subject: How many bananas for LSD Install.
 To: "'Toy4x4@tlca.org'"  Karl Bellve, PhD wrote:> Norman Goetz wrote:>> --- You wrote:>> FWIW: The trutrac DOES require R&P setup, special bearings for the
 front>> if ifs, etc. It replaces the carrier.>> --- end of quote --->>>> Yes, that's what I was thinking.  Any time the carrier is replaced you
 would at>> a minimum need to measure and verify correct R&P setup afterward.>> Ok, does it or does it not need R&P setup? James Brink said no.
 Well, Jim said you don't need to adjust the pinion...>I> thought if you didn't want to change gearing, then it would be simple to> put in a true-trac. If you still need to set up R&P, then you might as> well change your gears, if you need to. Can you explain why changing the> case requires R&P to be set up if they are not removed?
 Well, with any case change, the RING is removed (its bolted to the case),
 and the case is changed, so you DO need to setup up the backlash, preload,
 etc, though you don't need to change anything with the pinion in this
 situation. If you don't change the case (i.e. lockright or ezlocker), you
 can somewhat easily go back to the same adjustments.
 Even on a lock right (Contrary to what powertrax would have you believe in
 their ads), you DO need to remove the case from the third member to remove
 the ring gear, so you can get the spider gears out, but in their
 instructions they tell you to carefully mark the adjustments so you can go
 back to them.
 This discussion is quite timely for me, since I'll be starting my truetrac
 installations (front and rear) tonite, along with a gear change.
 - --
 - -- ej@off-road.com    http://www.off-road.com/~ej
 ------------------------------
 Date: 05 Jan 98 11:44:02 PST
 From: Norman.Goetz@directory.reed.edu (Norman Goetz)
 Subject: How many bananas for LSD Install.
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 - --- You wrote:
 Can you explain why changing the
 case requires R&P to be set up if they are not removed?
 - --- end of quote ---
 You're not changing the case, just the carrier, but the ring gear is bolted to
 the carrier.  Changing the carrier means you must move the ring gear over to
 the new carrier, and even a slight difference in design of the new carrier can
 leave the ring and pinion gears out of alignment if you just bolt everything
 together without adjusting the shim packs if necessary.
 Norman
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 05 Jan 1998 16:57:02 -0500
 From: Darren Floen  Subject: How many bananas for LSD Install.
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 an
 leave the ring and pinion gears out of alignment if you just bolt
 everything
 together without adjusting the shim packs if necessary.
 Norman
 In a toyota differential ther are no shims for setting backlash and
 preload.they use a threaded adjuster for this.If they had shims and a
 lockright/easylocker was installed then no adjustment would be needed.
 Darren
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 10:51:05 -0800 (PST)
 From: Kevin Burk  Subject: IFS Megatravel
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org
 Hello,
 I am considering making some changes to my current IFS setup to do
 better in offroad prerunning.  I am wondering if anyone had any input
 on Downey's mega-travel IFS setup.  Was it worth the expense, exactly
 how much did you gain after installing it over the stock setup and if
 you've ever broken any parts on it?  Also I have heard a company
 called West Coast Off-Road made a 14" travel front kit.  Anyone have
 any info on these suspension systems?
 Thanx,
 Kev
 _________________________________________________________
 DO YOU YAHOO!?
 Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 13:11:20 -0500
 From: "Jeremy Hartlaub"  Subject: LC Engineering
 To:  This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
 - ------=_NextPart_000_0027_01BD19DB.6A253F00
 Content-Type: text/plain;
 charset="iso-8859-1"
 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
 I have a big problem. I recently purchased an LC Engineering 22RE =
 "Stroker" to replace my old 22RE in my '89 automatic P/U. The motor is =
 fine, but the shop installing it says that the output from the engine is =
 not engaging the hydraulic pump inside the newly rebuilt transmission. =
 They say it is only short by about a quarter of an inch. I don't know =
 much about automatics, just enough to get in trouble. Is it possible to =
 alter the spacing between the engine and transmission enough to allow =
 the two to engage each other? As of right now, I have a brand new motor =
 and a newly rebuilt transmission in a truck that won't budge. The =
 transmission is a little unusual, it's a transmission and transfer case =
 all in one large housing. Is there any way this engine and transmission =
 can be made compatible?
 Thanks,
 Jeremy=20
 - ------=_NextPart_000_0027_01BD19DB.6A253F00
 Content-Type: text/html;
 charset="iso-8859-1"
 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I have a big problem. I recently =
 purchased an LC=20
 Engineering 22RE "Stroker" to replace my old 22RE in my '89 =
 automatic=20
 P/U. The motor is fine, but the shop installing it says that the output =
 from the=20
 engine is not engaging the hydraulic pump inside the newly rebuilt =
 transmission.=20
 They say it is only short by about a quarter of an inch. I don't know =
 much about=20
 automatics, just enough to get in trouble. Is it possible to alter the =
 spacing=20
 between the engine and transmission enough to allow the two to engage =
 each=20
 other? As of right now, I have a brand new motor and a newly rebuilt=20
 transmission in a truck that won't budge. The transmission is a little =
 unusual,=20
 it's a transmission and transfer case all in one large housing. Is there =
 any way=20
 this engine and transmission can be made compatible?
 
Thanks,
  =
 Jeremy 
 - ------=_NextPart_000_0027_01BD19DB.6A253F00--
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 05 Jan 1998 12:41:43 -0500
 From: Ed Ruf  Subject: Oiling K&N filters  (was re: 1998 Tacoma)
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org>>BTW, has anyone had problems with the K&N filter cleaning kit?  I went to>use mine for the first time Saturday (I ordered the cleaning kit with the>filter from Performance) and the aerosol oil can provided a dribble of oil>rather than a spray.  I have a paper element installed now, and probably>should just buy another spray can now that I have discovered where to buy>them locally, but I wasn't too happy.  Is it worth calling Performance>Products?  Probably not if I have to ship the old one back.
 FWIW, I've been using K&N filters for 25+ yrs and never use the spray can.
 I feel I get better control applying the oil using the flip top squeeze
 bottles of oil. Ok, I'm also cheap and the spray can stuff is much more
 expensive.
 Ed
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 22:25:01 +0100
 From: "Andy Inman"  Subject: Part Numbers?
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Hi people!
 Does anyone know of a source of part numbers for my '89 (old model)
 4Runner?  I now live in Spain, but the truck originally came from
 Switzerland.  Trying to purchase shock absorbers last week, and the
 guy didn't have it in his book (I think they were Koni parts he was
 looking at).  This model was never available in Spain.  I think I'm
 going to have the same problem everyitme I try to buy parts
 (e.g. brake pads, etc, etc).  Any thoughts?
 Thanks!
 - -AndyI-
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 05 Jan 1998 13:43:57 -0800
 From: Scott Wilson  Subject: Part Numbers?
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Andy Inman wrote:>> Hi people!>> Does anyone know of a source of part numbers for my '89 (old model)> 4Runner?  I now live in Spain, but the truck originally came from> Switzerland.  Trying to purchase shock absorbers last week, and the> guy didn't have it in his book (I think they were Koni parts he was> looking at).  This model was never available in Spain.  I think I'm> going to have the same problem everyitme I try to buy parts> (e.g. brake pads, etc, etc).  Any thoughts?
 You won't have any problems buy parts in the US for your truck...I'm
 sure many distributers will have no problem shipping to you...no matter
 where you are.
 Some distributers you may want to check out are:
 Performance Products
 http://www.performprod.com/printtoyota.asp
 800.752.6196 (USA, Puerto Rico & Canada)
 818.787.2396 (Local & Foreign phones)
 Downey Off-Road
 (310)949-9494
 4Wheel Parts Wholesalers
 http://www.4wheelparts.com/4wheel/
 (800) 421-1050
 I've dealt with all 3 of these distributors, and they're all good
 shops.  Each place has their own catolog....you can call them and ask
 they send you one.
 BTW, I don't think Koni makes shocks for our trucks....some of the
 manufactures that do are:  Rancho, Bilstein, Explorer, Monroe, and KYB.
 - --
 _____
 /_/_|_\__       Scott Wilson TLCA #5261  CA4WDC #13393
 | _     _ :     88 4Runner SR5 V6
 */_\---/_\'     Santa Clara, CA
 (_)   (_)      http://www.off-road.com/~swilson
 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 05 Jan 1998 14:08:19 +0000
 From: "Jay Kopycinski"  Subject: Possible Ban on ALL SUSPENSION MODS in Colorado
 To: Toyota 4x4 List  Charles Brooks  wrote:>Hey everybody go check this out>>http://www.sema.org/consumer/fedleg/stateredhot/coloradosuspension.html>>This can't be for real can it?!?! Alright Jeff, Howdja do it?!?!  ;)
 I can believe this is real. We all have to watch out for laws such
 as this that are most probably based more on emotion than fact.
 True, there are some modified vehicles on the roads that are
 more danagerous than stock vehicles. However, how about
 all the people driving bone stock vehicles that never bother
 doing routine vehicle maintenence?  Many people ignore
 proper maintenence or trust the servicing of their brakes,
 suspension or steering systems to all sorts of unskilled
 mechanics.
 There are too many people trying to protect us from our own
 good or take away our freedoms. This is evident from the
 eco-wackos, extreme safety advocates, and the anti-gun
 groups.
 I was going to rant some more, but I'm deviating from
 subjects applicable to this list. In any case, we all need to
 watch for and act to prevent these kind of laws.....IMHO.
 Jay Kopycinski    '85 Toylet   (ROKTOY)
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 05 Jan 1998 14:00:40 -0800
 From: Ken Emanuel  Subject: Possible Ban on ALL SUSPENSION MODS in Colorado
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org> True, there are some modified vehicles on the roads that are> more danagerous than stock vehicles. However, how about> all the people driving bone stock vehicles that never bother> doing routine vehicle maintenence?
 I thought it would be interesting to add that many states have
 (or are in the process of) outlawing lift blocks.  My father's
 1996 Dodge Ram Turbo Diesel uses lift blocks from the factory.
 Does this mean that an exception is being made for Chrysler
 Corporation?
 *-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*
 Ken Emanuel                     Emanuel@csus.edu
 '87 Xtra Cab SR5    (22R-E)
 http://webpages.csus.edu/~sac75830/toystuff.htm
 *-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*
 ------------------------------
 Date: 05 Jan 98 10:11:14 PST
 From: Norman.Goetz@directory.reed.edu (Norman Goetz)
 Subject: Re: How many bananas for LSD Install.
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 - --- You wrote:
 FWIW: The trutrac DOES require R&P setup, special bearings for the front
 if ifs, etc. It replaces the carrier.
 - --- end of quote ---
 Yes, that's what I was thinking.  Any time the carrier is replaced you would at
 a minimum need to measure and verify correct R&P setup afterward.
 Norman
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 05 Jan 1998 12:26:20 -0800
 From: Scott Wilson  Subject: Reader's Rides page
 To: Toy 4x4 List  I announced this once already but didn't get many takers...probably due
 to the holidays.
 We're expanding the Reader's Rides section at Off-Road.Com   (not to be
 confused with the Toy4x4 members page that Brian runs), so it is not
 - -just- 4Runners any longer.
 If you'd like your pick-up to be one of the first on the page, just
 e-mail me your favorite pic of your truck, and a one paragraph
 description of your truck.  IF you have a web page for your truck,
 include the URL, and I'll add a link for you.   Please make the subject
 of your e-mail  "Reader's Rides"  so I don't accidentally overlook it.
 Thanks,
 Scott
 - --
 _____
 /_/_|_\__       Scott Wilson TLCA #5261  CA4WDC #13393
 | _     _ :     88 4Runner SR5 V6
 */_\---/_\'     Santa Clara, CA
 (_)   (_)      http://www.off-road.com/~swilson
 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 05 Jan 1998 11:22:12 -0800
 From: Gaute =?ISO-8859-1?Q?Str=F8mme?=  Subject: SV: Toy4x4 Digest V1 #635
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Hello!
 Can sombody delete me from this mailinglist, please?
 Gaute Str=F8mme
 NVE-region vest
 Tlf: 	57 72 11 31 (a)  94 55 37 89 (mob)
 57 82 64 48 (p)
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 07:10:13 -0700
 From: "Martin E Rubin"  Subject: The best tires?
 To:  I just replaced my BFG Wrangler AT's with some Pirelli Scorpion's.  Though
 I don't do a lot of serious off-roading, they have proven themselves to be
 great tires thus far.  They're much quieter on the road than my Wranglers,
 they seem to handle gravel and sand really well (things I have a lot of
 around my home).
 They cost me about $93/tire plus installation.
 Martin Rubin
 Yuma, Arizona
 '94 4Runner
 - -----Original Message-----
 Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 01:09:37 EST
 From: Kris31179  Subject: The best tires?
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Ok simple question, I want to buy some new tires. What is the most
 recommended tire to buy without spending too much money?  I'm thinking in or
 around the price of a set of BFG Mt's.  Any suggestions would be helpful.
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 07:28:47 -0600
 From: "Richard S. Coburn"  Subject: Toy4x4 Digest V1 #629
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Jack, take me of the mailing list. Thank you R.S. Coburn
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 07:52:40 -0600
 From: "Richard S. Coburn"  Subject: Toy4x4 Digest V1 #635
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Jack please take me off the mail list. Thank you Richard coburn
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 14:15:54 -0800
 From: Locke Christman  Subject: Transmission Identification
 To: "'Toy4x4@tlca.org'"  I recently considered replacing my 4 speed with a 5 speed and this is
 what I learned regarding early 80's 5 speeds, FWIW:
 81-82:  problems with weak input, counter shaft, and center bearings.
 One piece cast iron (or aluminum?  not sure) housing.
 Designated "L52" on vin plate
 83:  same problems as earlier (maybe a little better) with one piece>cast iron housing.>designated "L53" on vin plate>>84 (83 1/2):  Much better tranny.  Aluminum housing, separate bell housing.>designated "G52">>85 with EFI:  Better yet, Aluminum, 2 piece.  Designated "W56".>>Not sure if this is 100% accurate but it is close.>>Locke
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 09:57:24 -0500
 From: Ed.Wong@astramerck.com
 Subject: Water Pump Weep Hole
 To: jtom@hsc.usc.edu, Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Jimmy:
 Anti-freeze "whiffs" on my truck have come from split seams
 in the top tank to the radiator. A tad easier to fix/replace
 than the water pump. Pull the "foam" stuff out and look for
 antifreeze stains along the seam of the top tank.
 EWong
 ------------------------------
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