Toy4x4 Digest          Mon,  5 Jan 98 00:30:02 (HST)  Volume 1 : Issue 636
 Today's Topics:
 1989 3.0 v6 timing
 Antenna Problems (2 msgs)
 Fla mud pics/stuck
 Free Radio
 Halogen Headlights (2 msgs)
 How many bananas for LSD install (2 msgs)
 How many bananas for LSD install?
 The best tires? (2 msgs)
 Toy4x4 Digest V1 #634 (2 msgs)
 Water Pump Weep Hole (2 msgs)
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 ----------------------------------------------------------------------
 Date: Sun, 04 Jan 1998 15:57:00 -0800
 From: Jim Brink  Subject: 1989 3.0 v6 timing
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 pparker@biopop.com wrote:>> I like to think I am pretty mechanically inclined....what is the deal> with the timing on this model?  I'm supposed to short a connector?
 Yes, you need to short the TE1 and E1 terminals located in the DIAGNOSIS
 conector in the engine compartment.
 Can> someone enlighten me on the correct timing procedure for this model and> what roundabout setting (BTC, I would imagine) works best for 89 octane> in a stock engine.  This will be my first time working on this one.
 Specification should be 5 degrees BTDC. Check the emission decal to be
 sure.>New truck for me. The Haynes manual is a little vague about the>electrical stuff.> Question about the idle.  Stays up around 1200-1500 rpm sometimes and> then sometimes purrs at 800.  The 800 rpm idle is predominate after the> truck has been driven, is cut off, and then started.  Dashpot faulty?> I can make the idle go down if I push on the linkage...it doesn't>really move perceptively.
 Idle speed is ECU controlled and adjusted as needed. 800 is the
 specification but this is for optimum conditions. Is the air
 conditioning on? Are the wheels being turned to full lock in either
 direction (Power steering)? How about the ambient conditions?
 There are many conditions that effect the idle speed. Do not be alarmed
 if the idle is not always set to a steady 800 RPM.
 - --
 Jim Brink--Toyota/ASE Certified Technician             '86 Std. Bed 22R
 Manhattan Beach, CA				   32x11.50/15 BFG M/Ts
 ToyTech@off-road.com
 ************************************************************************
 TLCA# 6184/ Friends of the Mojave Road (FOMR)
 ------------------------------
 Date: Sun, 04 Jan 1998 15:44:08 -0800
 From: Jim Brink  Subject: Antenna Problems
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 William Miranda wrote:>> Hi All,..>>     I have a minor problem.  My antenna is busted.  Actually,.. the plastic toothed> rod that is inside the antenna is missing about the last 3 inches.  The motor is fine> and I cannot justify spending almost 200.00 on an entire assembly at the dealership.>> Can anyone help?
 Call your local dealer and see if just the mast assembly is still
 available for your 4Runner. Most cars utilized a replaceable mast (with
 toothed cable) and I seem to remember the 2nd Gen. 4Runners did as well.
 - --
 Jim Brink--Toyota/ASE Certified Technician             '86 Std. Bed 22R
 Manhattan Beach, CA				   32x11.50/15 BFG M/Ts
 ToyTech@off-road.com
 ************************************************************************
 TLCA# 6184/ Friends of the Mojave Road (FOMR)
 ------------------------------
 Date: Sun, 4 Jan 1998 22:26:06 -8 GMT
 From: "Leo G. Divinagracia III"  Subject: Antenna Problems
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org> From: William Miranda >>     I have a minor problem.  My antenna is busted.  Actually,.. the plastic toothed> rod that is inside the antenna is missing about the last 3 inches.  The motor is fine> and I cannot justify spending almost 200.00 on an entire assembly at the dealership.> on my 90 4runner, i bought a new mast.  assuming the motor still
 works, then about $45 is the cost of a new set from the dealer.
 first remove the nut.  this nut has four notches on top which you can
 use long nose pliers to hold.  once the nut is removed, if you turn
 on the tuner part of the radio, the antenna will shoot up.  be ready
 to catch or else it may come off and it may scratch something.
 that's it, take the old one out and feed the new one with the teeth
 facing the rear of the vehicle.  lower the plastic piece until it
 hits something at the bottom.
 then have someone turn off the radio.  it should retract the antenna
 so hold it straight up and feed it carefully.  once it's fully in,
 screw the nut back on and you're done.
 i also lost a few inches of plastic off the old one but so far, so
 good.  this is been almost a year so i don't know if the broken piece
 may jam the new one or not.  also, until i used a special lube made
 from mountain bike chain, every month or so, the antenna would get
 dirty and jam.  but since i changed, even rain wouldn't stop it from
 retracting all the way down...
 - -----------------------
 Leo G. Divinagracia III
 ldivinag@csuhayward.edu
 ------------------------------
 Date: Sun, 4 Jan 1998 18:29:06 -0500
 From: "penny"  Subject: Fla mud pics/stuck
 To:  Check out the stuck section on my webpage. It takes a while to load, still
 trying to figure out how to make thumbnails :o)...
 Jimmy 82Toy4x4 L.B.
 purnrgy@quancon.com
 http://www.geocities.com/baja/6397/
 ------------------------------
 Date: Sun, 04 Jan 1998 22:55:43 -0600
 From: Brian Albrecht  Subject: Free Radio
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 I just installed a cassette deck so I really don't need this radio.
 Toyota stock AM/FM radio (no cassette) from '91 pickup
 with 1 pair 4" dash speakers (all work great).
 Free to a good home if you will pay the shipping.
 -Brian Albrecht
 baalbrec@students.wisc.edu
 ------------------------------
 Date: Sun, 04 Jan 1998 23:12:20 -0800
 From: Gregg R Hayford  Subject: Halogen Headlights
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org
 I know this topic was discussed a week ago so I will make this short.  I
 plan on buying a pair of Hella Vision Plus H4 headlights from
 Performance Products.  I believe they come with 55/60 bulbs.  I was
 thinking of purchasing the 100/150 H4 bulbs from NWOR and putting them
 in to replace the 55/60's.  I know that buy putting such a high wattage
 bulb I will have to get a new wiring harness and relays.  Is there
 anything else I should be concerned with??  Is this too much power?  IS
 it going to produce too much heat?  I just want to make sure I'm not
 going to burn my truck up or ruin the headlights themselves with these
 bulbs.  Any comments and/or suggestions would be appreciated.   If for
 some reason the 100/150's are not a good choice would you recommend the
 80/100 or the 90/130.  Thanks in advance
 ____________________
 Gregg R Hayford
 '93 Toy P/U
 22re 4 cyl.
 3" body
 33x12.50 Thornbirds
 15x10 wheels
 Http://www.geocities.com/baja/dunes/6290
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 05 Jan 1998 00:36:54 -0800
 From: Scott Wilson  Subject: Halogen Headlights
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Gregg R Hayford wrote:>> I know this topic was discussed a week ago so I will make this short.  I> plan on buying a pair of Hella Vision Plus H4 headlights from> Performance Products.  I believe they come with 55/60 bulbs.  I was> thinking of purchasing the 100/150 H4 bulbs from NWOR and putting them> in to replace the 55/60's.  I know that buy putting such a high wattage> bulb I will have to get a new wiring harness and relays.  Is there> anything else I should be concerned with??  Is this too much power?
 If for> some reason the 100/150's are not a good choice would you recommend the> 80/100 or the 90/130.  Thanks in advance> ____________________
 I TRUELY believe you won't get away with any of the bulbs your
 interested in.  You'll be pulled over ALL the time.   I'm currently
 using the 55/100W, and occasionally I get high beamed because they think
 I'm using my brights...then of course I coursiously let then know they
 were mistaken  ;-)
 Seriously though...55 is the legal limit for street use, and you'll run
 into trouble using anything else.  For the highbeam...I met one guy
 using a 120  or was it 130?  he'd used them for years with the stock
 wiring and hasn't had any problems so I say go for it!  Just because
 full with those low beam wattage.
 Scott
 - --
 _____
 /_/_|_\__      Scott Wilson
 | _     _ :     Santa Clara, CA
 */_\---/_\'     http://www.off-road.com/~swilson
 (_)   (_)
 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
 ------------------------------
 Date: Sun, 4 Jan 1998 20:54:48 EST
 From: JOEMAMA135  Subject: How many bananas for LSD install
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org
 Darren Floen Wrote:
 "You still have to set backlash anytime the diff carrier is removed from
 the third member assembly."
 Everybody who has replied to this thread,  please go to this site,  click on
 gear catalog, next click on sport parts, and finally,  scroll down to the TRD
 LSD.
 http://www.toyota.com/motorsports/
 ------------------------------
 Date: Sun, 4 Jan 1998 21:19:54 -1000 (HST)
 From: Eric Johnson  Subject: How many bananas for LSD install
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 On Sun, 4 Jan 1998, JOEMAMA135 wrote:> Darren Floen Wrote:> "You still have to set backlash anytime the diff carrier is removed from> the third member assembly.">> Everybody who has replied to this thread,  please go to this site,  click on> gear catalog, next click on sport parts, and finally,  scroll down to the TRD> LSD.>> http://www.toyota.com/motorsports/
 I didn't see an entry for an LSD, but their locking differential is
 listed, and its just a repackaged lock rite, which is a true locker.
 ------------------------------
 Date: Sun, 4 Jan 1998 21:06:39 -1000 (HST)
 From: Eric Johnson  Subject: How many bananas for LSD install?
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 On Sun, 4 Jan 1998, JOEMAMA135 wrote:> FWIW: The trutrac DOES require R&P setup, special bearings for the front> if ifs, etc. It replaces the carrier.........>> But I said I want one for the REAR> Well, it requires setup for the rear too. Except for the special bearings,
 the rear is like the front - it uses a separate carrier. As far as I know
 the only non-setup rearends you can get are the lockrite, ezlocker, and I
 think one of the auburn mini-spools.
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 01:09:37 EST
 From: Kris31179  Subject: The best tires?
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Ok simple question, I want to buy some new tires. What is the most
 recommended tire to buy without spending too much money?  I'm thinking in or
 around the price of a set of BFG Mt's.  Any suggestions would be helpful.
 ------------------------------
 Date: Sun, 4 Jan 1998 22:27:49 -0800
 From: "Sandy and Terry"  Subject: The best tires?
 To: > Ok simple question, I want to buy some new tires. What is the most>recommended tire to buy without spending too much money?  I'm thinking in
 or>around the price of a set of BFG Mt's.  Any suggestions would be helpful.> For what specific purpose?  The best tire is the tire that best meets your
 needs i.e. highway, city driving, trail riding, mud, snow, or show.
 Terry Johnson
 ------------------------------
 Date: Sun, 4 Jan 1998 21:17:58 +0000
 From: "Brian D. Swearingen"  Subject: Toy4x4 Digest V1 #634
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org> So I don't think there will be a problem with setting up the ring> and pinion, so does anybody actually know?
 The process is:  (since I did it on New Years Eve morning)
 drain oil, place rear axle on jack stands, remove tires.
 disconnect drive shaft, pinch off brake line with vice grip.
 remove brake line connections to drum housing.
 remove 4 retaining bolts for each rear axleshaft--slide out 4-6".
 remove center section--careful, it's heavy and awkward!
 the fun part....I've both done it myself and had shops "set up" the
 ring gear...this time the shop did it since this is my daily driver.
 MUCH easier at home with air powered tools!
 "Feel" the existing gear lash by holding the pinion shaft and
 rotating the ring gear.  This is what you want when you're done.
 Remove both adjuster clips and both bearing caps.  Remove both
 bearing adjusters.  CAREFULLY remove the carrier--don't drop the
 bearing races.  BEARING CAPS/RACES/ADJUSTERS MUST
 RETURN TO THE EXACT SAME SIDES!!  Remove the ring gear.
 Remove the carrier bearings (Special tool required).  Reinstall the
 carrier bearings on the new carrier.  Reinstall the ring gear.  Set
 the new carrier in the housing with the races and set  the
 adjusters in place.  Install the bearing caps finger tight and be
 triple sure you haven't crossed the threads.  Adjust as required
 using a punch or a large pin-type hub tool.  (This is the part I hate
 doing with my daily driver.)  Run a pattern using a thick grease/oil
 and check your gear penetration/location for the pinion vs. ring.
 (Experience helps here)  Tighten bearings caps completely once you're
 sure everything is set, replace the adjuster clips, and recheck your
 pattern and lash "feel".
 Take home, reinstall in reverse of above, don't forget to remove the
 vice grip, and enjoy the ride!
 Brian D. Swearingen
 Appleton, Wisconsin
 woody@vbe.com
 http://www.vbe.com/~woody/
 ------------------------------
 Date: Sun, 04 Jan 1998 23:07:35 -0500
 From: Darren Floen  Subject: Toy4x4 Digest V1 #634
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 The process is:  (since I did it on New Years Eve morning)
 drain oil, place rear axle on jack stands, remove tires.
 disconnect drive shaft, pinch off brake line with vice grip.
 remove brake line connections to drum housing.
 remove 4 retaining bolts for each rear axleshaft--slide out 4-6".
 remove center section--careful, it's heavy and awkward!
 the fun part....I've both done it myself and had shops "set up" the
 ring gear...this time the shop did it since this is my daily driver.
 MUCH easier at home with air powered tools!
 "Feel" the existing gear lash by holding the pinion shaft and
 rotating the ring gear.  This is what you want when you're done.
 Remove both adjuster clips and both bearing caps.  Remove both
 bearing adjusters.  CAREFULLY remove the carrier--don't drop the
 bearing races.  BEARING CAPS/RACES/ADJUSTERS MUST
 RETURN TO THE EXACT SAME SIDES!!  Remove the ring gear.
 Remove the carrier bearings (Special tool required).  Reinstall the
 carrier bearings on the new carrier.  Reinstall the ring gear.  Set
 the new carrier in the housing with the races and set  the
 adjusters in place.  Install the bearing caps finger tight and be
 triple sure you haven't crossed the threads.  Adjust as required
 using a punch or a large pin-type hub tool.  (This is the part I hate
 doing with my daily driver.)  Run a pattern using a thick grease/oil
 and check your gear penetration/location for the pinion vs. ring.
 (Experience helps here)  Tighten bearings caps completely once you're
 sure everything is set, replace the adjuster clips, and recheck your
 pattern and lash "feel".
 Take home, reinstall in reverse of above, don't forget to remove the
 vice grip, and enjoy the ride!
 Brian D. Swearingen
 Appleton, Wisconsin
 woody@vbe.com
 http://www.vbe.com/~woody/
 I really hate to say this but i'm going to.I think you are explaing how
 to do this the hillbilly grease monkey way.The only way to set up any
 type of gears is by using the right type of equipment,period.And even
 just having the right type of equipment doesn't mean that you know how
 to use it.Setting up ring and pinion backlash by feel is fine if you
 know what to feel for and most backyard mechanics don't.No offence to
 anyone out there who really have done their homework and know about
 setting up gears.I have set up many sets of gears in various vehicles
 for the last 8 or so years and i have had a few get screwed up by doing
 them by feel.If you have a little extra cash and you want to get into
 setting up rearends buy the proper tools and learn what the "feel" is.
 just my opinion
 Darren
 ------------------------------
 Date: Sun, 4 Jan 1998 18:14:36 -0800 (PST)
 From: Jimmy Tom  Subject: Water Pump Weep Hole
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Quickie:  Do the 22RE water pumps have a weep hole to indicate leaky
 bearings?  I'm getting whiffs of antifreeze and can't find any leaking.x
 - -------------------------------------------------------------------------
 Jimmy Tom  - -------------------------------------------------------------------------
 ------------------------------
 Date: Sun, 04 Jan 1998 20:07:13 -0800
 From: Jim Brink  Subject: Water Pump Weep Hole
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Jimmy Tom wrote:>> Quickie:  Do the 22RE water pumps have a weep hole to indicate leaky> bearings?  I'm getting whiffs of antifreeze and can't find any leaking.x
 Yep. Look above the timing marker on the t-chain cover. If the water
 pump is leaking, a puddle will form here.
 - --
 Jim Brink--Toyota/ASE Certified Technician             '86 Std. Bed 22R
 Manhattan Beach, CA				   32x11.50/15 BFG M/Ts
 ToyTech@off-road.com
 ************************************************************************
 TLCA# 6184/ Friends of the Mojave Road (FOMR)
 ------------------------------
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