Toy4x4 Digest          Fri, 24 Oct 97 12:30:02 (HST)  Volume 1 : Issue 506
 Today's Topics:
 Alternator problem???? (2 msgs)
 Center bearing???
 Drag Rod
 FLOWMASTER!!
 mixture question
 Pops out of gear
 RAV4 - what is it? (2 msgs)
 Rav4  VS. HO#@DA  CRV
 rim size?
 smoking 22RE
 Supercharger for 5VZFE engines (4 msgs)
 Trailmaster
 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
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 ----------------------------------------------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 24 Oct 97 08:16:14 PDT
 From: hollen@vigra.com
 Subject: Alternator problem????
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org
 In my '85 4Runner, I am having what appears to be a problem related to
 the alternator.  When I bought it, the alternator was covered with
 dripping power steering fluid.  Got the leak fixed, and then on a long
 trip, out in El Centro, the alternator died (or so I thought).  It was
 replaced.
 Now, more than a year later, most mornings when I go out to start it,
 both the Charge (little picture of a battery) light and the Brake
 light go on and stay on, even when the brake is off.  Turning off the
 engine and restarting it causes them to both go out.  Leaving the car
 for long periods of time will cause this problem to occur.  Months
 ago, this was a rare occurrence.  Lately, it has been getting more
 regular, until now it happens every morning.
 Just in the last couple of days, however, it has gotten worse.  It not
 only happens the first time starting, but every once in a while when
 driving along, it will happen again.  Once again, turning off the key
 momentarily and back on again will cause it to go away.  I have a
 5-speed so when I am rolling, the engine restarts itself without using
 the starter.
 The charging system has been checked out by two different mechanics
 and appears to to be fine.  No loose wires that can be detected.  Of
 course, the problem never occurs when it is at the mechanics.  The
 only thing either mechanic can detect is that the charging rate is not
 constant.  Over time, it oscillates between 13.2 and 14 volts, but he
 thought that this was normal.
 Any ideas?  I don't want to replace the alternator only to find out it
 is perfectly fine.
 thanks,
 dion
 `85 4Runner 22RE
 `86 4x4 PU 22RE
 Dion Hollenbeck (619)597-7080x164                 Email: hollen@vigra.com
 http://www.vigra.com/~hollen
 Sr. Software Engineer - Vigra Div. of Visicom Labs  San Diego, California
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 24 Oct 1997 12:40:52 -0400
 From: Ed Ruf  Subject: Alternator problem????
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 At 08:16 AM 10/24/97 PDT, hollen@vigra.com illustriously expounded:>>In my '85 4Runner, I am having what appears to be a problem related to>the alternator.  When I bought it, the alternator was covered with>dripping power steering fluid.  Got the leak fixed, and then on a long>trip, out in El Centro, the alternator died (or so I thought).  It was>replaced.>>Now, more than a year later, most mornings when I go out to start it,>both the Charge (little picture of a battery) light and the Brake>light go on and stay on, even when the brake is off.  Turning off the>engine and restarting it causes them to both go out.  Leaving the car>for long periods of time will cause this problem to occur.  Months>ago, this was a rare occurrence.  Lately, it has been getting more>regular, until now it happens every morning.>>Just in the last couple of days, however, it has gotten worse.  It not>only happens the first time starting, but every once in a while when>driving along, it will happen again.  Once again, turning off the key>momentarily and back on again will cause it to go away.  I have a>5-speed so when I am rolling, the engine restarts itself without using>the starter.>>The charging system has been checked out by two different mechanics>and appears to to be fine.  No loose wires that can be detected.  Of>course, the problem never occurs when it is at the mechanics.  The>only thing either mechanic can detect is that the charging rate is not>constant.  Over time, it oscillates between 13.2 and 14 volts, but he>thought that this was normal.>>Any ideas?  I don't want to replace the alternator only to find out it>is perfectly fine.
 Sounds like it may be the brushes. From the old Toy-l FAQ:
SECTION 3.0:  ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS
 +3.1:  Alternator repairs
 If the charge light AND brake light on your dash come on and stay on,
 the culprit is a problem in your charging system.  When these lights
 come on, it means your battery is not charging.  These lights will
 rarely signify a battery being at fault though.  Most often, the
 alternator belt is slipping or the alternator brushes are worn and the
 alternator is not putting out enough voltage.  When the output of the
 alternator drops below 12 volts, a relay kicks in and your dash lights
 come on.  List members have noted brush failure from between 60000 miles
 and 120000 miles with an average life of about 100000 miles.
 Your choices:
 1.) Go to a shop and get hammered for about $200 for a rebuilt
 alternator.
 2.) Go to a discount parts house and get a rebuilt alternator with a
 lifetime (HAHA!) warranty for about $75.
 3.) Go to a discount parts house and get a new set of brushes for about
 $4.50.  Install and drive another 100000 miles.
 The brushes available from Toyota run about $12 for a pair, but generic
 ones are just as good.  There are now brush "assemblies" available as
 well for some Toyota alternators.  These are for those who are not handy
 with a soldering iron or are lazy.  Check with your Toyota dealer (or
 one of the dealers on the Toyota Pages) for availability.  Instead of
 soldering the new brushes in place, you simply snap in a new brush
 assembly.
 If you can operate a soldering iron, or are willing to try, do number 3.
 The only other things that go wrong are the coil fusing, bearing
 failure, and the little resistor pack burning out.  However, these
 rarely fail.  The brushes just simply wear down to nothing.
 Disassembly of the alternator:
 Remove the alternator from the car and remove back cover (the side
 opposite the one with the pulley).  This is often easier said than done
 as nuts and bolts have a way of not loosening when you want them to.
 You may wish to soak the pivot and tightening nuts with penetrating oil
 if you are having difficulty removing them.  When removing the cover, if
 your model has phillips head screws, be warned that the screw heads
 strip very easily.  I STRONGLY advise you use an impact screwdriver to
 remove the screws before even trying to with a regular screwdriver.
 Impact screwdrivers are available at Sears for a little under $20 and
 can be had elsewhere for slightly less.
 Desolder the old brushes being careful not to let the springs get away
 from you as the solder lets go.  Note that Toyota uses a
 high-temperature solder in most alternators, so you will have to allow
 the old solder to heat up well.  Solder in the new brushes with the
 springs in place (which takes a little manual dexterity).  Using a
 toothpick or straightened paperclip, push the brushes down and slide the
 pick/clip through the holes provided to hold the brushes down (starting
 from outside of the casing).  Put the alternator back together.  Remove
 the pick/clip.  You should hear two distinct "clicks" as the brushes
 drop into place.  If you need to use additional solder, make sure you
 use a high-temp type and not the 60/40 solder found at Radio Shack.
 Install the alternator back into the car.  Make sure you tension the
 belt as directed in your owners manual.  Tension and tension adjustment
 methods vary from car to car, but a loose belt can cause your warning
 lights to come back on and a tight belt can harm the alternator,
 possibly causing bearing failure.
 Save the impact screwdriver for your next job.  These come in very
 handy.  If you already had one, you're ahead of the game.
 contributing: Chris Myer (cmyer@su102a.ess.harris.com)
 Aaron Lung (lung@san-jose.ate.slb.com)
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 24 Oct 97 10:57:00 -0500
 From: Rosenberger Bud  Subject: Center bearing???
 To: "mail@UUCP {Toy4x4@tlca.org}" ,
 John, My center bearing went bad after 162K miles and I discovered it by
 accident.  It never made any noise but it moved around ALOT.  Your
 housing should be still attached to the rubber which is attached to the
 bearing itself.  My bearing ( the metal thing with balls in it) was
 perfect.( anyone need one?)  But the rubber that was supposed to hold it
 to the housing was almost completely gone!  The rubber attached to the
 bearing could spin inside the rubber attached to the housing.  It would
 move around about an inch.  Once I noticed it (visually) I could actually
 feel it "wind up" when I pulled away from a start.
 I got mine aftermarket for $125.  I have a tip on removing the thing.
 Mark the shaft to flange location on both ends of the shaft.  Use a
 centerpunch to prick marks or file a notch( paint and/or chalk wears off
 just before you need it!)  Then remove just the rear shaft bolts ( at
 both ends by the u-joints ).  Now you can "unpeen" the nut on the front
 part of the shaft with a center punch.  Mark the location of the shaft
 and the flange.  That is easier said than done because there is a fine
 spline in there and if you are off one tooth, it will vibrate.  (Don't
 ask how I know!)  Remove the nut, then the bolts that hold the housing on
 and slide the whole thing off.  You don't need to remove the front shaft
 and keeping it attached helps you retorque it when re assembling.  No
 real tricks there.
 Check how tight the nut that holds the flange to the pinion is. I
 unpeened and retorqued mine as it was quite loose.
 Any other questions, ask away while this is still fresh in my mind...
 Bud
 ----------
 From:  John Schultz
 Sent:  Thursday, October 23, 1997 5:48 AM
 To:  Rosenber; 'mail@UUCP '
 Subject:  Re: Center bearing???
 Could you define
 "move around a bit", I can grab the driveshaft with one hand on each
 side of the bearing and push it up at least an inch.  Everything seems
 pretty loose around there.  I just am not sure what is normal.
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 24 Oct 1997 07:57:27 -0400
 From: Tom Olenio  Subject: Drag Rod
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Hello All,
 I went to have a wheel alignment done was told that there was too much
 free play in my "drag rod" for them to do the alignment.
 They suggested a rebuild kit that would take up the slack for both the
 left and right sides which are worn.
 I may be wrong, but is the drag rod, the rod that connects the steering
 knuckles?
 The kit cost $50 and they wanted $50 to install it (1 hour job).
 Has anyone done this themselves and is it difficult.
 Thank you.
 Tom
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 24 Oct 1997 08:58:02 -0700
 From: "Anthony, Pete"  Subject: FLOWMASTER!!
 To: "'Toy4x4@tlca.org'"  Date: Thu, 23 Oct 1997 19:39:02 -0500
 From: Chris Austin  Subject: borla muffler
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 *************** P A U L N G U Y E N *************** wrote:>> anyone out there have a borla muffler on their 4cyl pickup...  mine's
 a '93.> i'm thinking of replacing just my muffler for a borla.  i already have
 2> 1/2 inch plumbing w/ a flowmaster, but i'm not completely satisfied
 with> the way it sounds.  anyone know what the borla sounds like on a 4cyl?> a little quieter maybe?> i found a catalog where i can order just the muffler for about 100
 bucks.> thanks all.>>                                         -paul (pkn7564@acs.tamu.edu)
 What are you going to do with your Flowmaster when you get your borla??
 I would'nt mind having that Flowmaster
 I live in Dallas,Tx not sure if thats close to you, how much would you
 want for it?
 Thanks,
 Chris Austin Jr.
 Me Too!!!
 I am in NJ.
 drop me a line and we'll talk
 Peter L Anthony
 Direct Container Line Inc.
 Assistant Network Administrator
 (732)-661-4380
 Anthonp@dclusa.com
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 24 Oct 1997 08:59:39 -0400
 From: Ed.Wong@astramerck.com
 Subject: mixture question
 To: TRAGERR@aol.com, Toy4x4@tlca.org>>> I just put a K&N system/dynomax super turbo exhaust 2" on my 92' V6 3.0
 (70,000) mile XC pickup.  Do I need to richen the mixture just the slightest bit not to lean it out at high rpm's?
<< Subject: RAV4 - what is it?
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org> What are you think about RAV4?> St.Petersburg RUSSIA
 |From what I have read about the roads in Russia, I think you will want a
 truck that has a 2 speed transfercase, for slower driving.
 Chris Geiger 93 4Runner http://geiger.mcl.ucsb.edu/offroad.html
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 24 Oct 1997 16:46:15 -0500
 From: Steve Capuano  Subject: RAV4 - what is it?
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 At 09:14 AM 10/24/97 +0300, you wrote:>What are you think about RAV4?>>With best wishes, Valera Pocotilo>St.Petersburg RUSSIA> its either a Corolla or Camry and has no 4lo.
 Steve Capuano			1996 Tacoma ext cab V6 4X4
 capuano@hypercon.com		31x10.50x15 Wrangler RT/S
 Houston, Texas			Rear LockRight  K&N filter
 Edelbrock headers
 NRA lifetime member		Dynomax 2.5" cat back
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 24 Oct 1997 13:39:19 -0500
 From: El Manalo  Subject: Rav4  VS. HO#@DA  CRV
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 OK, I just read from a prior posting that the RAV-4 does not have
 4Wheel drive low gearing. Does anyone know if the CRV does? Just
 curious....
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 24 Oct 1997 08:56:16 -0800
 From: Kevin Valentine  Subject: rim size?
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 I'd go with the 15x8 rims with your 31" tires. It makes it look really
 cool!  Gives it a wider stance.
 I believe that depends on the offset of the rims though - I bet someone
 else here on the list can tell you what the offset should be.
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 24 Oct 1997 12:08:04 -0400
 From: "Chad Daniel Zimmer"  Subject: smoking 22RE
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 My '89 22RE has 130,000 miles on it and it uses oil and smokes periodically. On
 a 150 mile trip, it uses 1 quart of oil. The power still seems to be there
 except when I get on really steep grades like hill climbs and then it seems to
 bog out. Also when going down steep grades I look like Spy Hunter with my smoke
 screen. I have been told that it is probably the rings that are bad but I'm not
 sure. Can this problem be fixed without a complete rebuild? About how much
 should it cost? Also while getting this problem fixed could I get a performance
 cam dropped in relatively easily. Any info would be appreciated.
 '89 pickup
 4.88 and 33 12.50 BFG's
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 24 Oct 1997 07:54:03 -0500
 From: El Manalo  Subject: Supercharger for 5VZFE engines
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 I had a buddy tell me that in the latest TRD catalog there is a picture of a
 supercharger bolt on kit for the 5VZFE Engine that will be available in
 early '98. TRD says this is OEM in quality, look and fit.
 What are the experiences of anyone out there with Supercharging - is it
 worth the performance boost? Or does it cause pre-mature wear in
 parts? Easy/Difficult to maintain a supercharged engine? Anyone please
 adivise....
 Thanks!
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 24 Oct 1997 10:04:51 -0400
 From: "NUNES, ROB"  Subject: Supercharger for 5VZFE engines
 To: "'Toy4x4@tlca.org'"  Which engine is the 5VZFE, 4-cyl or 6-cyl. and what years did they start
 putting them in?> ----------> From: 	El Manalo[SMTP:manalo@platinum.com]> Sent: 	Friday, October 24, 1997 8:54 AM> To: 	Toy4x4@tlca.org> Subject: 	Supercharger for 5VZFE engines>> I had a buddy tell me that in the latest TRD catalog there is a> picture of a> supercharger bolt on kit for the 5VZFE Engine that will be available> in> early '98. TRD says this is OEM in quality, look and fit.> What are the experiences of anyone out there with Supercharging - is> it> worth the performance boost? Or does it cause pre-mature wear in> parts? Easy/Difficult to maintain a supercharged engine? Anyone please> adivise....> Thanks!> ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 24 Oct 1997 11:00:03 -0500 (CDT)
 From: "Bruce Burden"  Subject: Supercharger for 5VZFE engines
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org>> Which engine is the 5VZFE, 4-cyl or 6-cyl. and what years did they start> putting them in?> This is the 3.4L V6. I think they first appeared the T100
 in '94? Taco's in '95 and 4Runners in '97(?).
 Bruce
 - --
 - -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 Bruce Burden            bruceb@isd.tandem.com         Tandem Computers Inc.
 512-432-8944            Network Verification          14231 Tandem Blvd.
 Auto answer(4 rings)                                  Austin, TX 78726
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 24 Oct 1997 16:42:29 -0500
 From: Steve Capuano  Subject: Supercharger for 5VZFE engines
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 At 07:54 AM 10/24/97 -0500, you wrote:>I had a buddy tell me that in the latest TRD catalog there is a picture of a>supercharger bolt on kit for the 5VZFE Engine that will be available in>early '98. TRD says this is OEM in quality, look and fit.>What are the experiences of anyone out there with Supercharging - is it>worth the performance boost? Or does it cause pre-mature wear in>parts? Easy/Difficult to maintain a supercharged engine? Anyone please>adivise....>Thanks!> It is beautiful, but a word to the wise (maybe)...All of TRD's stuff looks
 renamed, for example, their headers are EXACT duplicates of my Edelbrock
 headers.  I called them in reference to a number of items in the new
 catalog.  They out right admitted that the locker was a Lock-Right, they
 denied the headers were Edelbeock, and the supercharger looks suspiciously
 like a Vortech.  I am only guessing at the Vortech, but if you have seen the
 Vortech S.C. you know this looks just like it.
 On the plus side the sales dude claims about 70 Hp with the S.C.  that may
 be conservative though.
 Steve Capuano			1996 Tacoma ext cab V6 4X4
 capuano@hypercon.com		31x10.50x15 Wrangler RT/S
 Houston, Texas			Rear LockRight  K&N filter
 Edelbrock headers
 NRA lifetime member		Dynomax 2.5" cat back
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 24 Oct 1997 06:38:42 -0700
 From: "Anthony, Pete"  Subject: Trailmaster
 To: "'Toy4x4@tlca.org'"