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Toyota 4x4 Digest

Publish date: Apr 18, 1997
By: ORC STAFF
Source: Off-Road.com

Toy4x4 Digest Fri, 18 Apr 97 00:30:02 (HST) Volume 1 : Issue 133
Today's Topics:
18 RG (2 msgs)
20r head on 22r block
20R head on a 22R block (2 msgs)
Autotrans Hicups (2 msgs)
BEEN THERE (2 msgs)
Bio (3 msgs)
Buick 231
clacking noise
convert to cross-over steering (2 msgs)
creaky clutch
diff bolt size
Doetsch Tech Shocks
Dueler ATs
Engine Rebuild
Flat Towing (5 msgs)
Flywheel and PP alignment
front seal (2 msgs)
Fuel filter change & Oil filter access
Fuel Usage???
Fwd: 1994 4wd extra cab 4cyl. (2 msgs)
gear ratio's (2 msgs)
getting off (2 msgs)
headers
Hubs
Impac or Worldpac Phone Number
I need new lock out hubs (3 msgs)
K&N filtercharger
K&N Filters
Lockout Hubs and Tranny Results (2 msgs)
Main Bearing Retainer
Pinging 22R-E
shackle length v. lift heigth (6 msgs)
shackles and procomp 85 4RU
starting woes
tacoma (2 msgs)
TAKE ME OFF THE LIST
Timing & Clutch
To Poly or not to Poly
torque rod (3 msgs)
Toy4x4 Digest V1 #130
Track bar designs (2 msgs)
Transmission upgrade (2 msgs)
tru-tracks or detroit
Tru-Tracks or Detroit Locker
truck pet names
TruTrac or Detroit Locker (3 msgs)
Valves and heads and gaskets, oh my
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 09:24:16 -0700
From: Mike Lopes Subject:
To: toy4x4@tlca.org
Personal Bio Info
POST TO THE LIST ONLY>> toy4x4@tlca.org
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Name: Michael Lopes
City & State: Bay Point, California
Country: U.S.A.
E-mail address: stimpy@netvista.net
Toyota (s) year & model: 1997 4Runner SR5
Are you a TLCA Member (Y/N/Number?): N
Age: 35
Occupation: Manager
Marital Status: Married
Hobbies: Cars, bowling, collecting sports memorabilia (Jerry Rice, Joe
Montana, 49ers)
How did you find out about the Toyota 4x4 Mailing List: offroad.com
General info about your vehicle, self, etc.: It's a stellar blue SR5
loaded--drives great--hope the head gasket doesn't blow up somewhere
remote---oh well, it's covered by warranty anyway. No mods yet, will
probably wait until the car gets a little older to mess with it....will
probably just do cosmetic add-ons for now.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 11:35:25 -0700
From: "Victor Sery" Subject: 18 RG
To: Has anyone had any experiance with the Toyota 18RG ,or is there a 20RG ?
I have a chance to get a 20RG so he says but have only heard of the
18RG.For thos of you who dont know what one is, it is a duel overhead cam
engine.Has anyone run one in a Toyota pu?
Thanx for any info.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 23:29:47 -0700
From: James Brink Subject: 18 RG
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Victor Sery wrote:>> Has anyone had any experiance with the Toyota 18RG ,or is there a 20RG ?> I have a chance to get a 20RG so he says but have only heard of the> 18RG.For thos of you who dont know what one is, it is a duel overhead cam> engine.Has anyone run one in a Toyota pu?>> Thanx for any info.
I've never heard of the "G" designation. Could you mean the 1.9/2.0liter
18R-C? This was the motor found in the early '70s Hilux trucks. I do not
know of many aftermarket sources for parts for this engine. The 20R
might be a better choice.
- --
Jim Brink 1986 Standard Bed 4X4/22R
Toyota/ASE Certified Technician 135,000 Miles
brinkjm@earthlink.net 32" BFG All-Terrain T/As
Stock 4.10 gears
Rear Lock-Right (TRD)
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 09:10:07 -0400
From: "penny" Subject: 20r head on 22r block
To: I was always told that the 22r carb is better than the 20r carbs (more
cfms) is there some adaptor for mounting the 22rs carb on the 20r intake?
Ifso does any-one know where i can find one and how much$$$ are they? does
this swap affect gas mileage?
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 18:21:27 -0700
From: Sterling Rorden Subject: 20R head on a 22R block
To: toy4x4@tlca.org
I have similar questions about putting a 20R head on a22R block. I
currently have a '80 pickup with a tired 20R engine and would like to
put an early 22R engine in it.
If I buy a 22R block and put my 20R head and intake system on it will I
still be able to run regular unleaded gas? (I do not want to have to
run premium) Would I be better off just using a whole 22R engine? (I
live in California and don't want to have any problems passing a smog
check) Is the main advantage of the 20R head that it raises the
compression ratio or does it really flow better?
Any comments, as always, would be appreciated.
Sterling
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 23:23:50 -0700
From: James Brink Subject: 20R head on a 22R block
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Sterling Rorden wrote:>> I have similar questions about putting a 20R head on a22R block. I> currently have a '80 pickup with a tired 20R engine and would like to> put an early 22R engine in it.> If I buy a 22R block and put my 20R head and intake system on it will I> still be able to run regular unleaded gas? (I do not want to have to> run premium) Would I be better off just using a whole 22R engine? (I> live in California and don't want to have any problems passing a smog> check) Is the main advantage of the 20R head that it raises the> compression ratio or does it really flow better?>> Any comments, as always, would be appreciated.>> Sterling
The main advantage to the 20R is the superior flow characteristics. As
for the compression ratio, this can vary with piston designs and
combustion chamber modifications. If you left the setup stock (20R
head/22R block) you MIGHT be able to pass a smog inspection provided all
of the required emissions related devices are present and the tailpipe
emissions are clean. It depends on the observation skills of the
"mechanic" (I use that term lightly nowadays) performing the inspection.
If a shop declines to do the inspection, you may schedule an appointment
with a "Referee" station and if the modifications meet the're approval,
you may be granted a "PASS" and receive a recertification decal listing
the modifications thus making it possible for any shop to perform an
inspection at a later date. I do not anticipate you having a problem as
the 22R is newer than the 20R originally found in your truck. I have
done some mild porting on late ('85-present) 22R cylinder heads with
good results though I don't have any cfm comparisons to 20R performance.
- --
Jim Brink 1986 Standard Bed 4X4/22R
Toyota/ASE Certified Technician 135,000 Miles
brinkjm@earthlink.net 32" BFG All-Terrain T/As
Stock 4.10 gears
Rear Lock-Right (TRD)
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 97 13:00:48 +0100
From: "jm Theobald" Subject: To: toy4x4@tlca.org
Personal Bio Info
POST TO THE LIST ONLY>> toy4x4@tlca.org
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Name: John Theobald
City & State: Egham, Surrey
Country: England
E-mail address: jm.Theobald@x400.icl.co.uk
Toyota (s) year & model: Not yet but am looking for a 4Runner
currently have a Vauxhall Frontiera LWB
Are you a TLCA Member (Y/N/Number?): N
Age: 30
Occupation: Administrator
Marital Status: Not yet
Hobbies: off-roading, Drag racing, Superbikes, photography, Computers
How did you find out about the Toyota 4x4 Mailing List: Friends on the net
General info about your vehicle, self, etc.: I have a Frontiera 4x4 LWB
it is lagoon blue, so far its standard except for Alloys,Bull-bars,side steps
and spot & fog lights at the front. I am looking for/hoping to get a 4Runner
at sometime. Also I own an 86 Range Rover fitted with 3.9EFi engine and
4 speed auto-box, uprated suspension, Anti-roll bars front and rear, full
poly-bush kit, bullbars, Hella spots, and side steps. I use this for
off-roading and fun. I like all motorsports including the bike racing.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 09:34:33 -0700
From: JOE Subject: Autotrans Hicups
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
I bought 1985 pickup 4x4 w/automatic trans, It seems when I TAKE OFF
the trans shifts rapidly into each gear , by the time im in 3rd the
engine is dragging an loping ,the whole body shakes bad . CAN anybody
relate to this problem ? I looked at the fluid ,Its pink .I need your
input, What does it sound like?
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 21:19:07 -0700
From: James Brink Subject: Autotrans Hicups
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
JOE wrote:>> I bought 1985 pickup 4x4 w/automatic trans, It seems when I TAKE OFF> the trans shifts rapidly into each gear , by the time im in 3rd the> engine is dragging an loping ,the whole body shakes bad . CAN anybody> relate to this problem ? I looked at the fluid ,Its pink .I need your> input, What does it sound like?
Sounds like the transmission throttle valve/ kickdown linkage is out of
adjustment. Locate the adjustment/lock nuts near the throttle body.
There should be a black cover encasing the throttle cable. The
specifications call for about 1mm of distance between the adjustment
nuts and the plastic casing.
Good luck.
- --
Jim Brink 1986 Standard Bed 4X4/22R
Toyota/ASE Certified Technician 135,000 Miles
brinkjm@earthlink.net 32" BFG All-Terrain T/As
Stock 4.10 gears
Rear Lock-Right (TRD)
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 18:34:10 -0600
From: "ARTHUR RUMPF" Subject: BEEN THERE
To: Noticed several questions on late into early trannies. My 82 (SR5 short
bed) 5 speed died within a year of the first rebuild with a quote of over
$1000 from Toyota just for the parts!!!!. (Maybe it was the NWOR
supercharger) I picked up a late model tranny/transfer and front driveshaft
(supposedly from an 89 four runner) from a boneyard for $900. After
talking to Marlin of Marlin Crawler fame the tranny is not an 89 but an 86
or so from a pickup. It has a removable bell housing and the xfer shifter
is in the top of the xfer case. Anyway, here's how it went:
Tranny bolts right up to engine, no problem. Had to make new holes in
floor since shift levers were farther to the rear. Factory crossmember
moved to the rear exactly the distance of the holes in the crossmember. The
front holes in the cross member lined up with the former rear holes in the
frame . This leaves the rear cross member holes hanging so I welded some
1/4" x 2" angle iron to the frame to fully bolt up the cross member.
The late models used larger driveshafts and also larger flanges on the
transfer case and differentials. The flanges were interchangeable from
tranny to differential and year to year, so since I had a good front drive
shaft (late model) I took the large flange from the rear of the transfer
and put it on the front differential and visa versa. This made the front
shaft a bolt in. My original rear driveshaft had worn splines (and was now
too long) but the original front shaft was fine so I had a shop make a new
rear shaft using the front splines. I gave him the CV joint in exchange for
a price break on the deal. Now I had a good rear shaft with small flanges
and a good front shaft with large flanges and didn't have to chase down any
parts. The alternative I guess would be to use the late drive shafts from
the same wheel base vehicle and buy\scrounge the flanges for the
differentials. That was 50,000 miles ago and no problems since. One of the
4X4 mags did a quicky article with a few pics on this swap (which is where
I got the idea) but unfortunately I didn't keep it.
A side note to all this is how much the Toyota dealers are boning us for
parts. Turns out some dirt had gotten into the rear bearing of the tranny,
so I took it (the bearing) back to the boneyard. They gave me an invoice to
take to the dealer for a new bearing so I could get the whole thing back
together that day. The same bearing in the 82 was $55.00 my price, the
price to the boneyard for the late model bearing was $15.00!!!!!! Why do
they do this to their loyal customers??????????
I know this combo works in this vehcle, but have no experience with any
others. Hope this helps.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 20:17:41 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Dr. Karl Bellve" Subject: BEEN THERE
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org> take to the dealer for a new bearing so I could get the whole thing back> together that day. The same bearing in the 82 was $55.00 my price, the> price to the boneyard for the late model bearing was $15.00!!!!!! Why do> they do this to their loyal customers??????????
This reminds me of Brown's Toyota in Baltimore, Maryland. They advertise
in the 4x4 mags. If you call one number, you get the wholesale price. If
you call the local number, you get the retail price. Even if you call the
wholesale number, they sometimes forget to give you the right price (new
stock boy, I guess). When I lived locally to Brown's, I would call to get
the wholesale price, then drive down to pick the part up. Then they would
quote me the retail price once I got there which was 4x as much. I then
would remind them of the correct cost and they would give it to me. Other
customers in the parts room always had their jaws on the floor. :-)
Dr. Karl Bellve
Biomedical Imaging Group
University of Massachusetts
WWW : http://molmed.ummed.edu/~kdb/
Email: kdb@molmed.ummed.edu
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 08:04:18 -0400
From: "Caribbean Chemicals" Subject: Bio
To: "Toy4x4" - ----------> From: Toy4x4-Request > To: caribchem@solutions2000.net> Subject: Bio> Date: 10 April 1997 22:37>> Personal Bio Info>> POST TO THE LIST ONLY>> toy4x4@tlca.org> +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++>> Name:Victor Anthony Pires>> City & State:Georgetown>> Country:Guyana.South America>> E-mail address:caribchem@solitons2000.net>> Toyota (s) year & model:>> Are you a TLCA Member (Y/N/Number?)no:> no> Age:40>> Occupation:> Managing Director> Marital Status:>wife& 3 boys> Hobbies:> hunting,fisfing&camping> How did you find out about the Toyota 4x4 Mailing List:> net search> General info about your vehicle, self, etc.:1986 double cab Hi lux .2
inch lift ,rear air bags, ARB'S front & rear.Guyana is larger than England
with about 300 miles of paved roads. The rest are sand or dirt trails.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 09:40:01 -0500
From: David_Silvey@mailsvr.hsc.missouri.edu (David Silvey)
Subject: Bio
To: Toy4x4 - --IMA.Boundary.365882168
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Personal Bio Info
POST TO THE LIST ONLY>> toy4x4@tlca.org
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Name:Dave Silvey
City & State:Columbia Missouri
Country:USA
E-mail address:DAVID_SILVEY@MAILSVR.HSC.MISSOURI.EDU
Toyota (s) year & model:95 4-RUNNER
PREVIOUS OWNED TOYS 79 FJ-40 AND 91 4X4 P/U
Are you a TLCA Member (Y/N/Number?):N
Age:32
Occupation:PURCHASING AGENT
Marital Status:MARRIED
Hobbies:OFF-ROADING, CAMPING, SHOOTING, FRISBEE, MISC OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES
How did you find out about the Toyota 4x4 Mailing List:CRUISING THE WEB
General info about your vehicle, self, etc.:95 4-RUNNER INFO WARN M8000 WINCH
EQUIPPED, 31" BFG MUDS, K&N FILTER, KC'S, CB, CELLPHONE, EQUIPED WITH MOST
ROADSIDE REPAIR NECESSITIES (TOOLS, TOW CHAIN, STRAP, SNATCH BLOCK, YANK STRAP,
COMPRESSOR, ETC WELL SCRATCHED AND USED FOR A 95, BUT NEEDS REAR LOCKER AND SUSP
LIFT KIT AND 4:88 GEARS TO BE READY FOR ROCKS. DOES GREAT IN THE MUD AND WE
HAVE LOTS OF THAT IN MISSOURI.
I USED TO WHEEL IN A 79 FJ-40. IT WAS WINCHED EQUIPED BUT RARELY
NEEDED IT. WHAT A BEAST OF A MACHINE. SOLD IT WHEN THE BABY CAME.
BIG MISTAKE. ALSO USED TO DRIVE A 91 TOYOTA 4X4 THAT DID QUITE WELL
FOR ITSELF ALSO.
I LOVE TO BE OUTDOORS AND WOULD BE INTERESTED IN ANY TRAIL EVENTS
WITHIN 300 MILE OR SO RANGE. ARK, TENN, S. MISSOURI AREA.
- --IMA.Boundary.365882168
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From: Toy4x4-Request Reply-To: Toy4x4 Subject: Bio
- --IMA.Boundary.365882168--
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 11:13:14 -0500
From: Toy4x4-Request (by way of Marcus Sadak )
Subject: Bio
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Personal Bio Info
POST TO THE LIST ONLY>> toy4x4@tlca.org
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Name:Marcus Sadak
City & State:Marquette,MI
Country:U.S.A.
E-mail address:msadak@nmu.edu
Toyota (s) year & model:1988 Toyota 4runner
Are you a TLCA Member (Y/N/Number?):n
Age:18
Occupation:student at Northern Michigan University
Marital Status:none
Hobbies:"Muddin", snowmobiling, icefishing, bowhunting.
How did you find out about the Toyota 4x4 Mailing List:
Surfing the web.
General info about your vehicle, self, etc.:
I purchased my 4runner 3 days after I graduated high school. It is in
excellent condition and I only paid $2500 for it. The man I bought it from
wasn't to bright.
I added a stereo system that will make you go deaf and I also added crome
rims and new tires to it.
My 4runner is pure black(no rust at all!), I have never seen an 88' that
is one solid color besides mine. I have had this vehicle for almost a year
and the only thing that has gone wrong is I had to put a new exhaust gasket
on the cadilitic convertor.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 12:05:55 -0400
From: critchpw@craft.camp.clarkson.edu
Subject: Buick 231
To: toy4x4@tlca.org
I'm not sure if my last post got through, so I'll re-ask my ?'s-
I want a little more power from my 22R. I'm pretty sure I've narrowed
the field to the 231 or a Vortec 4.3L. I know Jay has an earlier throttle
body 4.3, and he's told me that he loves it, but I'm not so sure I want
to delve into the expense/time of running wire harnesses, so I'm thinking
carb. Has anyone done/know someone who's done this swap? I'
I've read that the Buicks have a vibration problem-is this true? (My truck
vibrates enough now as it is).
Any advice will be appreciated.
- -Paul
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 18 Apr 1997 00:21:55 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jonathan Albrecht Subject: clacking noise
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
I've got a question about this truck I looked at last weekend. The owner
is going to get this fixed before I buy it (if I buy it), but I'm still
curious if anyone had any ideas. Oh, this is a 1987 22R-E, with about
108,000 miles on it.
The truck hadn't been driven for quite a while, maybe a few days, maybe a
month, I'm not sure, but at any rate, it had been long enough that the
alarm had completely drained the battery. They charged it for about 10
minutes, then jumped it. It started easily (cranked over about 2 times I
think). At first it made that 'dry rocker' sound, but for only a second
or so. I'd assume this is because it sat for a long time, and didn't have
any oil up there. When I started it a second time a 1/2 hour later, it
didn't make this sound.
So anyway, I revved it a few times while it sat there, and it sounded
pretty normal (though there was a bit of an exhaust leak). While running,
it'd didn't have any really noticeable valve clatter. Then I took it for a
drive.
When excelerating, I noticed a bit of a surging. Like it would
excelerate to about 4000, and kinda hesitate and then it would keep
going. I noticed that sometimes it would sorta 'surge' ahead, and other
times it was sorta hesitating. Not huge changes, but they were noticeable.
And there was also a noise. The only time it made it was during 'neutral'
power. If I accelerated at all, or decelerated at all (even just
mildly) it didn't make the noise. The noise was a loud 'clacking' kind of
sound. I also listened to it while parked, and the sound seemed to be
coming from the top end, perhaps even from around the injectors, but
honestly it could have come from anywhere. It seemed to be from the top
end though.
Any ideas? I'm not planning to buy the truck unless this is fixed
(prior), but I'm still curious.
Also, what about the surging effect? Bad gas? Bad fuel filters? Bad
injecters? O2 sensor?
Thanks,
__
Jonathan Albrecht
albr9619@uidaho.edu
http://www.uidaho.edu/~albr9619/
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 19:30:21 +0000
From: "Mike Williams" Subject: convert to cross-over steering
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
On 17 Apr 97, Jack Alford wrote:
..........> The answer to your problem is to lengthen the rod and preferably put a heim> on the axle end of the rod or convert to cross-over steering, which does> not suffer from the same malodies as stock Toyota solid axle steering.
Jack, I am glad that you brought the subject of cross-over steering
up. We (most readers) know that you recently converted to a
cross-over steering system on you truck and have completed a 3000+
mile road and rock crawling test on the system. When you get the
time could you briefly give us the pros/ cons of the conversion and a
brief run down of the conversion (if you changed steering knuckle
arms, mods to the pitman arm, tie-rod mods etc.).
I am tired of fighting bumpsteer and feel that the "touted" method of
moving the ball stud to the top of the steering knuckle arm to
correct this problem does nothing but waste money.
Mike Williams
======+++++++++++++======
mwill@ctos.com
===++++++++++++++===
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 22:59:38 -0500
From: Jack Alford Subject: convert to cross-over steering
To: toy4x4@tlca.org
Mike Williams wrote:>Jack, I am glad that you brought the subject of cross-over steering>up. We (most readers) know that you recently converted to a>cross-over steering system on you truck and have completed a 3000+>mile road and rock crawling test on the system. When you get the>time could you briefly give us the pros/ cons of the conversion and a>brief run down of the conversion (if you changed steering knuckle>arms, mods to the pitman arm, tie-rod mods etc.).
Well, I'll tell you how I did it. After weighing all the options and Jay,
Sam Houston, myself and several others discussing all the possible
methods to convert to cross-over steering and actually trying to implement
a few of them (it just seemed like I wasted some money on parts I couldn't
return, someone tells me this is r&d, still feels like I wasted money to me)
Anyways, I ended up mounting the IFS steering box back up that was
originally on my truck back up (as some of you may know, my truck originally
has IFS). The IFS frame horns are a bit different in the front but it
looks like it wouldn't be a problem to do to a (factory) solid axle truck.
I spent most all of my r&d dollars trying to find a power steering box that
was almost identicial to the TOYOTA IFS box but had it's sector
shaft running down the inside of the frame rail instead of the outside
of the frame rail like the Toy one does (to keep the draglink from running
between the springs and frame). After trying several boxes and looking at
every 4x4 known to man's steering box. I thought I had found the perfect box,
an Isuzu Trooper has a box that was just like the IFS box but had it's
output to the inside of the frame. This box was most likely even made by the
same company that the IFS one was as the power steering hose fittings were
the same size. But there was a catch, you knew there had to be a catch didn't
you?, the Isuzu had a pitman arm about 4" long compared to the 6.25" pitman
of the IFS box. This would make steering, even with power steering a work out,
I imagine the steering would have been like 10 turns lock to lock with that
boxes short pitman. Not to mention that it's pitman was PUNY ! That pitman
did possess one quality that the IFS pitman did not, it had a tapered hole
to accept a tie rod end compared to the IFS pitman which had a male rod
end built into it. I tried to put the IFS pitman on the Isuzu box but the
spline count was different.
Oh yeah, before someone asks, I didn't use a Saginaw box like most
every other 4x4 on the planet with cross over steering is because the
lower radiator hose on my 4 cyl. is too close to the frame rail to permit
a Saginaw boxes use.
So, I ended up using the IFS steering box/pitman, cutting down a piece of
the IFS relay rod with the tapered hole in it and having a friend with
a lathe turn a set of 11/16-16 threads on it and I cut down a spare toy tie
rod that I had and used the left hand threaded end of it to screw in a
pass. side tie rod end and threaded the other end of the tie rod
to match the 11/16-16 that I had turned onto the relay rod piece and used
it as my draglink. The pass. side tie rod end dropped into the tapered
hole of a Fabtech FJ40 LandCruiser spring-over steering arm (Fabtech
makes these because alot of cruiser swap there drum braked Land Cruiser
knuckles to mini-truck knuckles for the disc brakes) These was quite
a costly piece and I researched all the cheaper options before deciding
on going with this piece.
To the best of my know the JKR IFS Swap kit uses a modified pass. side
tie rod end (from the pic. it looks much similar to a later FJ40 pass.
side tie rod end) that has a tapered hole in it to accept a tie rod end.
I've heard of others using a toy drivers side tie rod end to facilitate
the mating of the draglink/tie rod but to that piece was not designed to
take that kind of stress and having a steering part that was strong enough
for me to have faith to drive the truck going 70-75 mph meant alot to me.
Not to mention that having the draglink mate with the tie rod causes the
draglink to have an incredible angle on it which in turn causes lots of
bumpsteer, which I can't see the JKR kit not causing if the truck had much
lift.
I'm quite happy with my setup, though I do need to fabricate a new draglink,
the stock toy tie rod turned out not to be up to the forces of being a draglink,
which turned out to be exponentially greater than that of the tie rod.
I can lock the brakes (Yes, I can lock the brakes, my new vented rotors
are SUPER!) and hold the wheel with one finger and it tracks straight and true.
It's a pleasure to drive on the trail as the wheel isn't jerking to and fro
like it was before.
I believe the JKR kit does take the IFS pitman and somehow taper drill it
to accept a stock toy tie rod end, which I may look into doing should
the tie rod 'built' into my IFS pitman ever wear out.
Drawbacks, the double armed Fabtech steering arm puts the draglink alot
higher than I expected it would have, though even with all my wheel travel
I don't believe it ever touched the underside of the frame rail on the
pass. side though I do believe the possibility is there. The draglink
is nearly horizontal which is the 'ideal' position for a draglink.
Another drawback is the steering ratio, I believe I counted it to
be about 4.75 turns lock to lock, which is quite slow. It makes for
steering on the road to be a bit of a chore, but you get used to it.
It's just your normal lean of the road steering correction would take
about a 1/4" more turn of the wheel than it normally would. This is
caused by the IFS pitman being a bit short, in comparison with the
length of the knuckles, about 3/4" I'd guess...
While in Moab, Jay and I took alot of measurements off of my truck and
tried to see if this same setup would work on his truck but we both felt
that the much longer and larger oil pan of his 4.3L V6 would prohibit
this setup working on a truck with a V6 like his.
Well, there it is, in the period of 15 mins. I've told you what it
took me 3-4 months to figure out and implement ... The method I chose
to implement was not the cheapest nor the least labor intensive but
was the safest and best way I found. Afterall, this is the steering of
the truck, and with the brakes running a close second is the MOST
important part of the truck. Not something I wanted to worry about
driving 75 mph down the road ....>I am tired of fighting bumpsteer and feel that the "touted" method of>moving the ball stud to the top of the steering knuckle arm to>correct this problem does nothing but waste money.
In *MY* opinion, flipping the ball is a good method of lessening the
angle of the draglink on a lifted truck but for wheeling, in *MY* mind
at least, it seems the ball being on the top means that the little 'cups'
that hold that ball have less of an angle to rotate through before they
bind and start to cantilever the arm and subsequently break it. Not to
mention that almost everyone I've ever talked with who's had a flipped
ball steering arm has had the ball come off on them if it lasted any
length of time.
I'm going to detail this out on a page at Off-Road.com when I get my pics
back from Moab that have some shots of the steering.
- -----------------------------------------------------------------
Jack Alford Off-Road.com - The best dirt on the net!
jalford@off-road.com http://www.off-road.com/
Decatur, AL
'86 Xcab Toyota Pickup - 33x12.50 BFG MT
Solid Front Axle - Marlin Crawler - ARB's
SFWDA - TLCA #3415 - Rocket City Rock Crawlers
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 09:58:52 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Eric Johnson" Subject: creaky clutch
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org> Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 11:06:24 -0700> From: Frank Di Giovanni > Subject: Creaking pedal> To: Toyota 4X4 Mailing List >> Lately when I push the clutch pedal in to shift gears and then let out the> clutch, it seems to make a creaking noise, like the spring under the dash> is dry or something. I put more lube on it but it did not do anything.> Anybody know what is going on? Thanks in advance, Frank
This could be metal fatigue in the clutch pedal mounting bracket which has
lead to a hairline crack in the mounting bracket. The result of this is
that when you depress the clutch pedal, the outward (towards you) force
on the bracket pulls the metal apart.. when you release the clutch,
it slowly comes back together. The problem is exacerbated by the fact
that there is _considerable_ firewall flex in the area of the clutch
pedal when the clutch is depressed.
Because the mounting bracket is a pain to replace, I 'fixed' mine by
reducing the firewall flex.. had a angled brace welded up which
bolts between the wheel well wall and the clutch master cylinder.
I really should go in there and fix it properly, but what a mess..
have to pull out all the pedals. Basically, this is a fundamental
design flaw with the vehicle... I'm surprised everyone isn't
getting bit by this one.
- --
Eric Johnson (eric@qnx.com, eajohnson@acm.org)
Technical Development; QNX Software Systems Ltd.
Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 13:34:14 -0700 (MST)
From: Eric Madsen Subject: diff bolt size
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org>>How big is that thing? Must be 25 or 26mm (hmm... 1" maybe?). Even my big>>22mm torsion bar wrench wasn't big enough. Anyone know offhand what size>>socket I'll need?>>> The ones on my truck are 24mm. I use a 15/16" six point socket on it.> Jay's reference to the six point socket is critical. I've had a lot of
trouble with sockets with more than 6 (12, I guess) points that like to
round of the head.
Eric
Eric Madsen, Applications Engineer
Pacific Numerix Corporation
7333 E. Doubletree Ranch Rd #280, Scottsdale, AZ 85258
Phone: (888) PNC-2121 | Fax: (602) 483-8526
E-mail: eric@pnc.com | Web: www.crl.com/~pacnum/pnc.html
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 20:31:36 -0400 (EDT)
From: JMAX71@aol.com
Subject: Doetsch Tech Shocks
To: toy4x4@tlca.org
I am interested in the new 5 way adjustable Doetsch Tech shocks, but I've
only seen one company advertise selling them.
Does anybody know of a company that sells them. I'd like to know if the
price I saw (49.99 each) is about the average going price.
Also is anybody running them?
Do you like them?
Oh ya, has anybody heard anymore about the new Power Trax electric locker?
Is that thing ever going to come out?
Thanks for the help.
Jason
85 xtra cab, swb, super stub bed, 33's, 5:29s, Marlin Crawler Gears
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 97 13:26:00 -0500
From: Rosenberger Bud Subject: Dueler ATs
To: "mail@UUCP {Toy4x4@tlca.org}" ,
I've had BFG AT's (32") for 2 Buffalo NY winters so far and I love them!
I had no trouble in snow up to about 15" and even when it was real wet,
They cleaned out really well. On the road they are well behaved and
don't "push" in the slush like others I've had. They aren't as good in
the mud as I'd like, but I knew that going in. They don't look as good
as "mud" tires but I drive them 50 miles per day so who cares. BTW, I
have about 24,000 miles on them and I don't think i've worn them more
than 1/8"! I'll buy another set next time. My '64 Chevy, will get MT's
because I rarely drive it on the road.
Hope this helps!
Bud
----------
From: David Booth
Sent: Wednesday, April 16, 1997 5:39 PM
To: Rosenber; 'mail@UUCP '
Subject: Dueler ATs
The other day someone mentioned that in their experience the Dueler
ATs did better in the mud than the BFG ATs. I'm in the market for new
31x10.50s right now and can't decide. I've had both tires before and
they both seemed to work just as well in the desert around Moab. I
haven't driven the BFGs in deep snow or mud so I don't know how they
compare to the Duelers. Mepco told me that they feel the Dueler AT is
a better tire for Moab than the BFG AT.
Does anyone else have experience or an opinion to add? Thanks!
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 18 Apr 1997 02:05:58 -0400
From: Jughead Subject: Engine Rebuild
To: toy4x4@tlca.org
The head gasket just blew on my '92 22re (106,000 mi.), and while I have
the engine out I plan on rebuilding the whole thing.
I think everything is ok (pistons, crank, rods, and valves). What i'm
hopeing I can do is just replace all the rings, bearings, gaskets, and
valve hardware. I also want to replace the EFI with a carb.
Does anyone know what rebuild kit would be best? I noticed that NWOR
had a kit with everthing I should need.
Also, I've found alot of carbs (weber 38DPS, holley 350 2 barrel, holley
390 4 barrel), intakes (Offy, stock 22r w/ adapter, & LC NASCAR holley 2
barrel), and cams (alot). I dont plan on changing anything in the block
and head(compression or valve size). I would appreciate any opinions on
any of these combinations or any I dont know about. I've spoken to
NWRO, Downey, & LC Eng. and its hard to get an unbiased opinion from any
of them.
I am looking for upgraded ignition components to. LC Eng. has a couple
of nice distributors, one they build, and one from mallory. Any ideas?
How about electronic ign. boxes? I found an MSD and a mallory.
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Jughead
- --------------------------------------------------------------------
James Owens
(Jughead@141.com) '92 Std. Cab 4x4 w/22RE & 5spd.
Machinist 5.71 w/ Det. Locker & True-trac
Williston,Fla. 36x12.5x15 Super Swampers
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 09:27:58 -0400 (EDT)
From: DRM033@aol.com
Subject: Flat Towing
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
In a message dated 97-04-17 04:17:00 EDT, you write:> I was flat towing my '88 X-Tra Cab last weekend> behind our motorhome when a friend noticed that> the front driveshaft was turning (man. hubs, unlocked).> When I flat tow it I always put the tranny in neutral and,> because there's no *marked* neutral on the transfer> case lever I put it where I've seen "N" marked on other> Toys, between "4-Hi" and "4-Lo", confirmed by putting> it in gear and letting out the clutch.> When I got home I tried putting the transfer case> back in "2-Hi" and just the tranny in neutral and of> course, the front driveshaft didn't spin at all.
The driveshaft will pretty much always start to turn. Vibration gets it
going and thats the reason. There is force on this from the wheels. Someone
else could do a better job of explaining this.....
David DRM033@aol.com
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 11:59:54 -0500
From: Jack Alford Subject: Flat Towing
To: toy4x4@tlca.org
David wrote:>> I was flat towing my '88 X-Tra Cab last weekend>> behind our motorhome when a friend noticed that>> the front driveshaft was turning (man. hubs, unlocked).>> When I flat tow it I always put the tranny in neutral and,>> because there's no *marked* neutral on the transfer>> case lever I put it where I've seen "N" marked on other>> Toys, between "4-Hi" and "4-Lo", confirmed by putting>> it in gear and letting out the clutch.>> When I got home I tried putting the transfer case>> back in "2-Hi" and just the tranny in neutral and of>> course, the front driveshaft didn't spin at all.>The driveshaft will pretty much always start to turn. Vibration gets it>going and thats the reason. There is force on this from the wheels. Someone>else could do a better job of explaining this.....
I don't believe it's vibration that causes this, I think it's the fact
that at least one gear in the tcase is turning (the rear driveshaft is
always spinning unless you disconnect it), this spins the thick gear oil
which causes the front driveshaft output gear to turn a bit. I've noticed
this when pushing my truck in and out of my garage. If you could hang under
the truck and drive down the road you would be able to stop the front
driveshaft from spinning by just putting your hand on it it isn't spinning
with much torque at all.
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Jack Alford Off-Road.com - The best dirt on the net!
jalford@off-road.com http://www.off-road.com/
Decatur, AL
'86 Xcab Toyota Pickup - 33x12.50 BFG MT
Solid Front Axle - Marlin Crawler - ARB's - 4.88's
SFWDA - TLCA #3415 - Rocket City Rock Crawlers
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 12:58:52 -0500 (CDT)
From: Sam Houston Subject: Flat Towing
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Jack ->David wrote:>>>> I was flat towing my '88 X-Tra Cab last weekend>>> behind our motorhome when a friend noticed that>>> the front driveshaft was turning (man. hubs, unlocked).>>> When I flat tow it I always put the tranny in neutral and,>>> because there's no *marked* neutral on the transfer>>> case lever I put it where I've seen "N" marked on other>>> Toys, between "4-Hi" and "4-Lo", confirmed by putting>>> it in gear and letting out the clutch.>>> When I got home I tried putting the transfer case>>> back in "2-Hi" and just the tranny in neutral and of>>> course, the front driveshaft didn't spin at all.>>>The driveshaft will pretty much always start to turn. Vibration gets it>>going and thats the reason. There is force on this from the wheels.
Someone>>else could do a better job of explaining this.....> Jack wrote ->I don't believe it's vibration that causes this, I think it's the fact>that at least one gear in the tcase is turning (the rear driveshaft is>always spinning unless you disconnect it), this spins the thick gear oil>which causes the front driveshaft output gear to turn a bit. I've noticed>this when pushing my truck in and out of my garage. If you could hang under>the truck and drive down the road you would be able to stop the front>driveshaft from spinning by just putting your hand on it it isn't spinning>with much torque at all.
In the N position, the transfer case connects the front and year output
shafts and disconnects the input shaft so you essentially have a 4N
position. Soooo .... if you keep the rear driveshaft connected, the front
will spin due to it's being directly linked to the rear output shaft.
Think of the shift pattern this way ... the left side of the "U" controls
the front drive selector the right side of pattern controlls the H-N-L
selector.
HTH
Sam Houston
shouston@ix.netcom.com
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 17:33:31 -0400 (EDT)
From: DRM033@aol.com
Subject: Flat Towing
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
In a message dated 97-04-17 13:38:27 EDT, you write:> I don't believe it's vibration that causes this, I think it's the fact> that at least one gear in the tcase is turning (the rear driveshaft is> always spinning unless you disconnect it), this spins the thick gear oil> which causes the front driveshaft output gear to turn a bit. I've noticed> this when pushing my truck in and out of my garage. If you could hang
under> the truck and drive down the road you would be able to stop the front> driveshaft from spinning by just putting your hand on it it isn't spinning> with much torque at all.>> -----------------------------------------------------------------> Jack Alford
Yep, the fluid idea sounds much better that my vibration idea.
David
DRM033@aol.com
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 15:47:41 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jonathan Albrecht Subject: Flat Towing
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org> In the N position, the transfer case connects the front and year output> shafts and disconnects the input shaft so you essentially have a 4N> position. Soooo .... if you keep the rear driveshaft connected, the front> will spin due to it's being directly linked to the rear output shaft.> Think of the shift pattern this way ... the left side of the "U" controls> the front drive selector the right side of pattern controlls the H-N-L> selector.
Say, are there any shifter mod's for getting 2-low and 2-N?
__
Jonathan Albrecht
albr9619@uidaho.edu
http://www.uidaho.edu/~albr9619/
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 09:46:51 -0400
From: Ed.Wong@astramerck.com
Subject: Flywheel and PP alignment
To: " - (052)Toy4x4 (a) tlca.org" sbever@jeffnet.org wrote:>> When installing a new PP and Disc on a turned flywheel, as long as I> line up the dowels, I can't imagine it matters which of the three> holes go to any of the 3 dowels, does it?
Jim Brink already responded - but one note:
Come clutches (Centerforce) line up more than one way (as I recall).
Some clutches (LUK) only line up one way.
The issue was - I recall that the LUK would "almost" line up in one position,
but
definately line up in another position (rotatated - like setting hands on a
clock)
I guess the warning meant - if it doesnt like up quite right - dont get the
hammer - keep rotatiing the pressure plate!
EWong
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 12:26:44 -0600
From: Brian Smillie Subject: front seal
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
My front seal on my 22RE doesn't seem to be effective it is the on that is
located behind the main pully I think it is the timing chain seal, it is
round with a spring in it much like the rear end seals at the tires. Does
any one know why it is being a problem. It has gone twice already since I
repaced my motor last year and it went in my other motor also. Makes a
horable mess any hints how to make it better or prevent it from leaking.
Thanks in advance Derek Luymes.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 22:30:57 -0700
From: James Brink Subject: front seal
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Brian Smillie wrote:>> My front seal on my 22RE doesn't seem to be effective it is the on that is> located behind the main pully I think it is the timing chain seal, it is> round with a spring in it much like the rear end seals at the tires. Does> any one know why it is being a problem. It has gone twice already since I> repaced my motor last year and it went in my other motor also. Makes a> horable mess any hints how to make it better or prevent it from leaking.> Thanks in advance Derek Luymes.
Derek,
You have found one of the few inherent problems with these otherwise
great motors (actually a lot of Toyota motors are prone to this). I
suspect that the sealing surface (where the crank seal actually mates
with the crank)on your crankshaft is what's called "seal worn." This is
where the seal has actually worn a groove into the crank snout. This is
easily repaired with a sleeve that should be available locally at any
decent auto parts store. Most vendors call it a "Reddi-Sleeve." A
little trick I use when installing seals like this is I smear a very
light coat of Permatex 2B (the non-hardening stuff) on the OUTER edge of
the seal. This will assure the seal does not leak around it's outside
diameter or will not pop out at a later date.
- --
Jim Brink 1986 Standard Bed 4X4/22R
Toyota/ASE Certified Technician 135,000 Miles
brinkjm@earthlink.net 32" BFG All-Terrain T/As
Stock 4.10 gears
Rear Lock-Right (TRD)
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 22:38:48 -0400 (EDT)
From: DRM033@aol.com
Subject: Fuel filter change & Oil filter access
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Well, I figured that after 114K miles, the stock fuel filter wa due for
replacement. Let me first offer my thanks to whoever pointed out the small
access panel in the wheel well. That makes changing the oil filter almost
fun! BUT, the fuel filter was a bear! I did get it done, but not without
many, many cuts and scrapes to my hands. By the way, gas feels GREAT in
those cuts!
Anyway, should I be able to tell a difference after the Fuel filter change?
I may be halucinating, but but it seems to be smoother. My passenger agreed.
The fuel in the filter looked pretty brown too.
Thanks again for the access panel hint!
David
DRM033@aol.com
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 12:30:57 -0600
From: "Terry Sheppard" Subject: Fuel Usage???
To: I think I had already posted this, anyway it still has me up in the air!
I have a 84 4x4 reg cab (not Cal.) and its getting bad mileage for about
six months now, between 14 - 16 miles/gallon city and not much better
highway. Also it does not hold its speed on the hills in 5th gear (around
3100 RPM), top speed on the flats with a tail wind is around 70 MPH:
- -Rebuilt 22r about 23,000 miles ago
- -New cam (not oem)
- -New Bosch Platnum plugs
- -New Wires
- -New rotor cap and button
- -New air filter
- -New fuel filter
- -Reconditioned Carb
- -2.5" exhaust (no cat.)
- -Recent valve adjustment
(nothing helped)
- -Everything else stock except 31" tires.
Any suggestions would be appreciated!!
Also 99% of my driving is done at about 3800 feet above sea level, any
suggestions on timing advance, air/ fuel mixture (I don't have the high
altitude adjustment feature in this truck)????
Thanks
Terry Sheppard
shepardt@cadvision.com
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 12:40:59 -0400 (EDT)
From: AThorn5556@aol.com
Subject: Fwd: 1994 4wd extra cab 4cyl.
To: TOY4X4@tlca.org
In a message dated 4/9/97 2:12:28 PM, AThorn5556 wrote:
dear tlca,
<> - ---------------------
Forwarded message:
Subj: 1994 4wd extra cab 4cyl.
Date: 97-04-09 15:12:28 EDT
From: AThorn5556
To: toyx4@winternet.com
Dear Minnesota,
I was wondering if any of your members have any experence with a 4 cylinder
engine that spark knocks all the time. The dealer has looked at it 4 times
and said that a majority of the 4 cyl. 4x4's do knock, so he advanced the
timing to 0 degrees tds. and sent me home. I've tried every kind of
gas,every type of fuel system treatment, a Jacobs ultracoil, different plugs,
different wires, different driving patterns, and it still knocks. The
dealership "said" they checked the egr.
valve and the tps., and reported that they were fine. Should I just change
these items out and see if the knocking stops, or is there somthing that I'm
overlooking?
I forgot to mention that I bought the truck used from a dealer who said a
junk yard dealer had just traded it in for the larger T100.
I don't know if you can help, but any advice or assistance would be
appretiated!!
Thanks again!
Alan Thornton
athorn5556@aol.com
(919)462-6375
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 22:58:24 -0700
From: James Brink Subject: Fwd: 1994 4wd extra cab 4cyl.
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
AThorn5556@aol.com wrote:>> In a message dated 4/9/97 2:12:28 PM, AThorn5556 wrote:> dear tlca,>> < engine that spark knocks all the time. The dealer has looked at it 4 times> and said that a majority of the 4 cyl. 4x4's do knock, so he advanced the> timing to 0 degrees tds. and sent me home. I've tried every kind of> gas,every type of fuel system treatment, a Jacobs ultracoil, different plugs,> different wires, different driving patterns, and it still knocks. The> dealership "said" they checked the egr.> valve and the tps., and reported that they were fine. Should I just change> these items out and see if the knocking stops, or is there somthing that I'm> overlooking?> I forgot to mention that I bought the truck used from a dealer who said a> junk yard dealer had just traded it in for the larger T100.>> I don't know if you can help, but any advice or assistance would be> appretiated!!>> Thanks again!> Alan Thornton> athorn5556@aol.com> (919)462-6375>>>>> ---------------------> Forwarded message:> Subj: 1994 4wd extra cab 4cyl.> Date: 97-04-09 15:12:28 EDT> From: AThorn5556> To: toyx4@winternet.com>> Dear Minnesota,>> I was wondering if any of your members have any experence with a 4 cylinder> engine that spark knocks all the time. The dealer has looked at it 4 times> and said that a majority of the 4 cyl. 4x4's do knock, so he advanced the> timing to 0 degrees tds. and sent me home. I've tried every kind of> gas,every type of fuel system treatment, a Jacobs ultracoil, different plugs,> different wires, different driving patterns, and it still knocks. The> dealership "said" they checked the egr.> valve and the tps., and reported that they were fine. Should I just change> these items out and see if the knocking stops, or is there somthing that I'm> overlooking?> I forgot to mention that I bought the truck used from a dealer who said a> junk yard dealer had just traded it in for the larger T100.>> I don't know if you can help, but any advice or assistance would be> appretiated!!>> Thanks again!> Alan Thornton> athorn5556@aol.com> (919)462-6375
The part about "knocking all-the time" sounds like B.S. to me.
Occasionally, some knocking is normal (like during light accels. or
light-load cruise). Has the dealer tested the truck on a four-gas
analyzer or dyno? It could be that the motor is running too lean (no
codes, right?). Another possibility is the Mass Airflow Sensor is out of
adjustment or has been fiddled with. I don't know of any TSBs on this
topic but I THINK I may have heard of a replacement ECM for the
above-mentioned symptoms. I'll try to look into it.
I would also suggest you try another dealer willing to do a little more
diagnostic work. Is the truck still under warranty? How many miles on
the odo? The dealer may charge you (about $60.00) to run the diagnostic
tests but if something comes up and is covered, you'll be refunded. If
under 50k miles, I doubt there is a problem with the EGR system. It
usually takes around 80K miles or so for them to get carboned-up to the
point of total blockage.
- --
Jim Brink 1986 Standard Bed 4X4/22R
Toyota/ASE Certified Technician 135,000 Miles
brinkjm@earthlink.net 32" BFG All-Terrain T/As
Stock 4.10 gears
Rear Lock-Right (TRD)
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 10:53:34 +0600
From: Scott Hollister Subject: gear ratio's
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
At 07:20 PM 4/16/97 -0700, you wrote:>>Does anybody know the gear ratio's of a 5spd in a 1986 22r toy p/u? I'm>mostly curious about 5th.>>Thanks,>__>Jonathan Albrecht>albr9619@uidaho.edu>http://www.uidaho.edu/~albr9619/> Jonathan-
According to the Marlin crawler paperwork I have, fiftth gear has a ratio of
.83.
Scott> Scott Hollister
shollist@vt.edu
84 xtracab 33's EZ Locker, Onboard Air,
Dual Batteries, Front Axle Forward 1" 5.29's.
------------------------------
Date: 17 Apr 1997 09:30:27 -0700
From: "Jay Kopycinski" Subject: gear ratio's
To: "Toyota 4x4 List" Subject: Time: 9:16 AM
OFFICE MEMO gear ratio's Date: 4/17/97
Jonathan Albrecht wrote:>Does anybody know the gear ratio's of a 5spd in a 1986 22r toy p/u? I'm>mostly curious about 5th.
Can't remember all the five speed ratios off the top of my head, but the
fifth gears ratios have been 0.84:1 or 0.85:1.
_______________________________________
Jay Kopycinski '85 Toylet (ROKTOY)
Gilbert, AZ
ryna10@email.sps.mot.com
http://www.netzone.com/~jayk
Arizona Lo-Rangers 4WD Club TLCA #3243
_______________________________________
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 08:11:10 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Dr. Karl Bellve" Subject: getting off
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
On Wed, 16 Apr 1997 BCSTOY@aol.com wrote:>>> One more trick besides the bolts buy a $20.00 gas torch at home depot heat> the drum up and with the 12 mm bolts bolted on the drum it should come off> May be now you don't need the bolts anymore just a ball pen hammer.> I assume people have tried turning the adjustment screw behind the drum?
This will move the shoes off of the drum.
Dr. Karl Bellve
Biomedical Imaging Group
University of Massachusetts
WWW : http://molmed.ummed.edu/~kdb/
Email: kdb@molmed.ummed.edu
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 15:45:45 -0500
From: Jack Alford Subject: getting off
To: toy4x4@tlca.org
Dr. Karl wrote:>I assume people have tried turning the adjustment screw behind the drum?>This will move the shoes off of the drum.
Yes, but it is rust between the wheel studs/drum that generally keeps
the drum from coming right off once the shoes aren't holding the drum on.
Spinning the drum and hitting it lightly in a diagonal manner with a hammer
usually gets it off without too much hassle for me.
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Jack Alford Off-Road.com - The best dirt on the net!
jalford@off-road.com http://www.off-road.com/
Decatur, AL
'86 Xcab Toyota Pickup - 33x12.50 BFG MT
Solid Front Axle - Marlin Crawler - ARB's - 4.88's
SFWDA - TLCA #3415 - Rocket City Rock Crawlers
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 09:53:44 -0400
From: Ed.Wong@astramerck.com
Subject: headers
To: " - (052)toy4x4 (a) tlca.org" Im biased - I prefre the LC Engineering ones over Downey and NWOR
EWong>>>> Does anyone have any preferance between the Downey 4-1 header and the
NWOR tri-y. They both claim to be the best, but I was hoping that
someone out there has some experiance with them.
bmonster@dkeep.com
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 07:23:46 -0700
From: nickkrest@batnet.com (Nick Krest)
Subject: Hubs
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Matt Chapin wrote:
"I have AISIN hubs and I was wondering
if this is OEM?"
Those are the OEM hubs.
- Nick
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 18 Apr 1997 00:49:12 +0000
From: sbever@jeffnet.org
Subject: Impac or Worldpac Phone Number
To: Toyota 4x4 List Did anyone see a post for the number to Impac or Worldpac?
Scott
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 22:40:58 -0400 (EDT)
From: DRM033@aol.com
Subject: I need new lock out hubs
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
I am about to replace the lock outs on my truck. I was considering Warn, but
Downey wants $170. A local parts store wants $85 for Superwinch hubs. Any
thoughts on this subject? Better prices?
TIA
David
DRM033@aol.com
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 19:55:19 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jonathan Albrecht Subject: I need new lock out hubs
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org> I am about to replace the lock outs on my truck. I was considering Warn, but> Downey wants $170. A local parts store wants $85 for Superwinch hubs. Any> thoughts on this subject? Better prices?
Why are you swapping out the stock ones?
__
Jonathan Albrecht
albr9619@uidaho.edu
http://www.uidaho.edu/~albr9619/
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 20:55:14 -0700
From: Scott Wilson Subject: I need new lock out hubs
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
DRM033@aol.com wrote:>> I am about to replace the lock outs on my truck. I was considering Warn, but> Downey wants $170. A local parts store wants $85 for Superwinch hubs. Any> thoughts on this subject? Better prices?
I don't know if you live near an Auto Parts Club, but I was just reading
their add, they're Superwinch Hubs are on sale for $50. I have no idea
how they compare to Warn.
Scott
- --
Scott A. Wilson __o __o __o __o
Santa Clara, CA _'\<,_ _'\<,_ _'\<,_ _'\<,_
swilson@pacbell.net (_)' (_) (_)' (_) (_)' (_) (_)' (_)
http://users.uniserve.com/~rcomber/scottw/scottw.htm
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 09:41:50 -0700
From: Paul Whitaker Subject: K&N filtercharger
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org>>This may or may not affect performance, but with the open filtercharger>setup, you are taking in hotter air from the engine compartment. The>stock setup takes in cooler air from outside. That's another potential>shortcoming.>>eric> This brings to mind my other car a newer mustang 5.0L. K&N has a conical
filter that slips onto the mass-air meter inside the engine compartment,
replacing the stock panel filter which was ocnnected to the fenderwell.
Well for about a year I ran one of there 9" conical filters on my car. I
then thought about this, I was sucking up hot engine compartment air when
before I was sucking cold air from under the car through the fenderwell. I
switched back to the panel air filter and I honestly picked up .5mph in the
quarter mile I went from a 12.87@107.7 to a 12.701@108.3. Which is a big
improvement in my book. These runs were backed up time after time also.
Paul
Paul Whitaker
http://www.ictv.com
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 23:11:07 -0500
From: Jack Alford Subject: K&N Filters
To: toy4x4@tlca.org
Frank Di Giovanni wrote:> I'm sorry Jack I have to disagree. Up here in Canada a yoda filter ia $20> can. for the V6, replacing it 2 times a year( for dirt roads) it works out> to $40 not including taxes. A K&N filter was $49 Can. when I bought it 1.5> years ago, and I have washed it twice now and reoiled it. I'll probably use> it for the life of the truck. Does anybody know how long the filters last> before they deteriorate (sp) ?
No, I'm sorry Frank, I disagree with you, and no I don't live in Canada
and FRAM air filters are about $4.99 each and I'll just keep buying 'em,
using 'em and throwing 'em away ... Like I said, It was *MY* $.02 ...
- -----------------------------------------------------------------
Jack Alford Off-Road.com - The best dirt on the net!
jalford@off-road.com http://www.off-road.com/
Decatur, AL
'86 Xcab Toyota Pickup - 33x12.50 BFG MT
Solid Front Axle - Marlin Crawler - ARB's
SFWDA - TLCA #3415 - Rocket City Rock Crawlers
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 14:09:34 -0400 (EDT)
From: Michael Thomas Mollan Subject: Lockout Hubs and Tranny Results
To: Toyota Land Cruiser Association Digest I will soon be putting new rotors on my '86 4x4 and am concerned about
dealing with the locking hubs and more specifically the cone washers used
to hold the hub assembly on. I am fairly comfortable with tearing stuff
apart but I am concerned about what taking the hub off will entail. (I
am hoping to avoid small springs and c clips). If any one can ease my
mind with there experience I would greatly appreciate it. Also is there
any tricks to getting the previously mentioned cone washers out. I tried
quickly one day and couldn't get any to budge.
I recently had an '86 5-speed with 248k miles go bad on me. The
fifth/reverse gear bearing went bad and caused some chipped teeth on those
gears. The shop I elected wanted $1400 for a rebuild (new gears and all
new bearings) or $1200 for a used trans with 55k on it. Trusting the
longevity of the 5-speed I opted for the used one and hope to have it
pushing my Truck for a long time to come.
Mike
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 23:11:51 -0700
From: James Brink Subject: Lockout Hubs and Tranny Results
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
If you don't want things flying out at you, remember to leave the hubs
in the "FREE" position. This will assure that the components of the hub
are securely locked to the hub cover.
As for the cone washers, many on the list can provide many good methods.
I like to tap on the hub lightly or on the studs that secure the hub
body to the rotor flange with a brass drift. Leave the nuts and washers
on a few threads so the cone washer do not fly off when freed. The can
be dangerous. Wear eye protection. Upon reinstallation, I smear the cone
washers with little anti-sieze to ease removal the next time. If the hub
cover and hub body to rotor flange gaskets (P/Ns 43531-60010/43422-60010
respectively--is that sick or what???) are bad, replace them--they're
cheap.
Hope this helps.
Jim
- --
Jim Brink 1986 Standard Bed 4X4/22R
Toyota/ASE Certified Technician 135,000 Miles
brinkjm@earthlink.net 32" BFG All-Terrain T/As
Stock 4.10 gears
Rear Lock-Right (TRD)
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 10:03:12 -0400
From: Ed.Wong@astramerck.com
Subject: Main Bearing Retainer
To: " - (052)Toy4x4 (a) tlca.org" Jim may have easy access to Yota's FIPG material :)
I actually had a tube of the stuff - but when I reached up
to the sehlf I discovered EGADS - it hardened!
Permatex makes an "import" gasket sealer - even sez on the
back of the package that it meets spesc for the the Yota
FIPG stuff - even matches the Yota part number!
Its also easier to get (Pep Boys) and cheaper too
- -for us home types who dont get a pro discount :)
I'll look up the part numebr if someone wants it.
EWong
sbever@jeffnet.org wrote:>> As there is no gasket between the main bearing retainer and the oil> pan (88 4Runner, 22RE), is permatex Hi-temp Black the right thing to> use to seal it up? Any tricks?
I use either the Fel-Pro RTV for gasket-less flanges or the Toyota FIPG
(Formed-In-Place-Gasket) maker. The latter is available from the dealer
and works great for most applications where a gasket is not used.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 17:10:00 -0400
From: Ed Ruf Subject: Pinging 22R-E
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
I just remembered to ask. Has the EGR valve operation been checked? This
cause of pinging problems was pointed out repeatedly on Toy-l by Daryll
Mathews.
Ed
Ed Ruf (egruf@visi.net)
1986 Toyota 4x4 SR5 PU @ 122K, 3.5" Rancho susp. lift, RS-7000's, 31x10.5
BFG-A/T, K&N
1987 Toyota SR5 4Runner @ 118K, KYB GasSprings, 30.5x9.50 Cooper Disc.
1982 Honda XL600R Thunderin' Thumper
1986 Yamaha FJ-1200SC @ 15K
2 yr old, 110#, pure bred white GSD, Kaiser Klaus III, AKC# DL569628/04
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 09:46:50 -0400 (EDT)
From: DRM033@aol.com
Subject: shackle length v. lift heigth
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
In a message dated 97-04-17 09:21:47 EDT, you write:> I still feel that if you lift a truck with a 2" longer shackle, the truck> isn't lifted a full two inches. It may not be exactly 1/2 that, but it> will only be about 1-1.3" higher. If the shackle is at roughly the same> position (nearly perpendicular to the ground), and is 2" longer than> stock, but the truck only sits 1-1.3" higher...the bottom end of the> shackle has GOTTA be lower.>> I'm pretty sure of myself on this one, but I could be wrong. I'm> open to comments.> __> Jonathan Albrecht> albr9619@uidaho.edu> http://www.uidaho.edu/~albr9619/> I will admit, my "shackle angle" theory is faulty.
Try this one
OK, here is a test you can do. Take a pencil. This is your "spring". Put
one end on the table, elevate the other end 2" in the air. Now, take your
measurement from the center of the pencil. Should be 1". The center is
where the axle would be located. The end on the table is the spring's fixed
point. The end in the air is the shackle. That explains the reason the lift
is not = to shackle length.
S for the spring eye being lower, I will have to say I was wrong. As to it
changing departure angle, 1" should not be a factor, considering that the
shackle is usually coupled with larger tires.
What I meant by optical illusion, it what just because the shackle is longer,
is *should not* come between the line from the tire to the rear lowest point.
Also , you have in essence lowered the tire, changing the departure angle.
the 1" inch lift change and the 1" (splitting the 2") lower spring eye shoud
kinda cancel each other. If this is way off, I would like to know.
David
DRM033@aol.com
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 07:58:00 -0700
From: Scott Wilson Subject: shackle length v. lift heigth
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Jonathan Albrecht wrote:> I still feel that if you lift a truck with a 2" longer shackle, the truck> isn't lifted a full two inches. It may not be exactly 1/2 that, but it> will only be about 1-1.3" higher. If the shackle is at roughly the same> position (nearly perpendicular to the ground), and is 2" longer than> stock, but the truck only sits 1-1.3" higher...the bottom end of the> shackle has GOTTA be lower.
FWIW, I used a 3"(longer than stock) shackle on my 88 4Runner and my
lift was exactly 2".
Scott
- --
Scott A. Wilson __o __o __o __o
Santa Clara, CA _'\<,_ _'\<,_ _'\<,_ _'\<,_
swilson@pacbell.net (_)' (_) (_)' (_) (_)' (_) (_)' (_)
http://users.uniserve.com/~rcomber/scottw/scottw.htm
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 11:59:58 -0500
From: Jack Alford Subject: shackle length v. lift heigth
To: toy4x4@tlca.org
Man, you guys have beat this 'shackle length' horse to death ...>FWIW, I used a 3"(longer than stock) shackle on my 88 4Runner and my>lift was exactly 2".
The others argument of shackle length = 1/2 lift height gained does not
truly equate on Toyota springs because the axle is not in the middle of
springs but the length=1/2 lift gained is a good rule of thumb in most
cases.
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Jack Alford Off-Road.com - The best dirt on the net!
jalford@off-road.com http://www.off-road.com/
Decatur, AL
'86 Xcab Toyota Pickup - 33x12.50 BFG MT
Solid Front Axle - Marlin Crawler - ARB's - 4.88's
SFWDA - TLCA #3415 - Rocket City Rock Crawlers
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 15:10:01 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jonathan Albrecht Subject: shackle length v. lift heigth
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
sorry about reposting most of this measage..
I said:>> I still feel that if you lift a truck with a 2" longer shackle, the truck>> isn't lifted a full two inches. It may not be exactly 1/2 that, but it>> will only be about 1-1.3" higher. If the shackle is at roughly the same>> position (nearly perpendicular to the ground), and is 2" longer than>> stock, but the truck only sits 1-1.3" higher...the bottom end of the>> shackle has GOTTA be lower.
david said:> I will admit, my "shackle angle" theory is faulty.> Try this one> OK, here is a test you can do. Take a pencil. This is your "spring". Put> one end on the table, elevate the other end 2" in the air. Now, take your> measurement from the center of the pencil. Should be 1". The center is> where the axle would be located. The end on the table is the spring's fixed> point. The end in the air is the shackle. That explains the reason the lift> is not = to shackle length.
agreed> So for the spring eye being lower, I will have to say I was wrong. As> to it changing departure angle, 1" should not be a factor, considering> that the shackle is usually coupled with larger tires. What I meant by> optical illusion, it what just because the shackle is longer, is *should> not* come between the line from the tire to the rear lowest point.
I think this kinda depends upon a lot of things. Usually my reciever
hitch would hit before my 2.5" longer shackles would. If I drove off a
ledge though, the shackle would hit (and drag) and then the reciever would
hit (and drag). I guess the lower shackles never really caused any
problems even when they did drag...though it could if you tried to back up
on a steep ledge (where the ledge was below the bumper, but above the
shackle).> Also , you have in essence lowered the tire, changing the departure angle.> the 1" inch lift change and the 1" (splitting the 2") lower spring eye shoud> kinda cancel each other. If this is way off, I would like to know.
I think we both agree on everything 'cept for this last comment. I still
feel that if the truck is 1" higher, and the shackle is 2" longer, then
the bottom of it will be 1" lower than before.
I wouldn't say that the 1" lift would cancel the 1" lower shackle but
rather because of the 1" lift, the bottom of the 2" longer shackle is
only 1" lower.
Here's a better solution--could someone with extended shackles measure the
distance from the bottom of your shackle to the ground, and then measure
the distance from the bottom of the shackle on a similar year, similarly
set up truck (with stock shackles)?
__
Jonathan Albrecht
albr9619@uidaho.edu
http://www.uidaho.edu/~albr9619/
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 15:24:20 -0800
From: Scott Wilson Subject: shackle length v. lift heigth
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Jonathan Albrecht wrote:> I think we both agree on everything 'cept for this last comment. I still> feel that if the truck is 1" higher, and the shackle is 2" longer, then> the bottom of it will be 1" lower than before.> I haven't really been following this thread, but...simple geometery will
tell you it will not be 1" and it will not be 2". It will be somewhere
inbetween. You can go out and measure the angle of the shackle
(compared to the frame) and figure out the difference in height before
and after (with a little error margin for the change in angle with the
new shackle)(it won't be much).
Scott
- --
*****************************************************
Scott Wilson TLCA #5261
88 4Runner SR5 V6
Santa Clara, CA
http://users.uniserve.com/~rcomber/scottw/scottw.htm
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 15:57:22 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jonathan Albrecht Subject: shackle length v. lift heigth
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org>> I think we both agree on everything 'cept for this last comment. I still>> feel that if the truck is 1" higher, and the shackle is 2" longer, then>> the bottom of it will be 1" lower than before.>>> I haven't really been following this thread, but...simple geometery will> tell you it will not be 1" and it will not be 2". It will be somewhere> inbetween. You can go out and measure the angle of the shackle
Yeah, you're right, it's just easier to say 1" and 1", instead of going to
decimal places and stuff. It's the same general concept, regardless of
whether a 2" shackle give 1/2" of lift or 1.9" of lift. This stuff has to
do with how far the axle is from the front spring mount, and how far away
the shackle mount is from the front spring mount. So, actually the exact
numbers will differ between '88 and '89 trucks even.
__
Jonathan Albrecht
albr9619@uidaho.edu
http://www.uidaho.edu/~albr9619/
------------------------------
Date: 17 Apr 1997 09:28:15 -0700
From: "Jay Kopycinski" Subject: shackles and procomp 85 4RU
To: "Toyota 4x4 List" Subject: Time: 9:20 AM
OFFICE MEMO shackles and procomp 85 4RU Date: 4/17/97
Jonathan Albrecht wrote:>I'm not sure. If you lengthen the shackle, then the truck raises up about>1/2 the additional length of the shackle. And the shackle (and end of the>spring) are 1/2 the additional length of the shackle lower than before.>Right?>>I figure 2" longer shackle raises frame about 1" higher. So the end of>the shackle, being 2" longer will sit 1" lower.
Jonathan, you are absolutely right. I goofed. Had to draw it out on paper
to see the effect. It just wasn't getting thru my head. Sorry for any
confusion I may have caused.
_______________________________________
Jay Kopycinski '85 Toylet (ROKTOY)
Gilbert, AZ
ryna10@email.sps.mot.com
http://www.netzone.com/~jayk
Arizona Lo-Rangers 4WD Club TLCA #3243
_______________________________________
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 08:51:19 +0000
From: sbever@jeffnet.org
Subject: starting woes
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org> Chad D. Zimmer wrote about his starter trouble:>>>> Sometimes when I try to start my 89 pickup it clicks instead of>> engaging the starter.
James helped him with good advise:> To remove the starter (super easy on a 4x4):
> Remove starter through top of engine compartment
On my '88 4Runner it is easier to pull the splash guard on the wheel
well and pull it through the fender above the wheel.> Access to the bolts may be made easier through the wheel wells.
Yes. Or from underneath by the bellhousing mounted clutch slave
cylinder.
Scott
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 17:32:30 PDT
From: "marc shirah" Subject: tacoma
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
will installing a glasspacked muffler give me any noticeable gas
mileage/performance gains?I have the 2.7 4-banger.
Also,today I replaced my worn out 31 in BFG AT's with a set of 31x10.50
Sidewinder Mud Terrains.I went to a local four wheeling spot known as "the Dairy
Farm". I've always had to use 4wd, and I could only make it through half the
holes in 4-lo. today, with mt new tires,i got through half the holes in 2wd,annd
put it in 4-hi only three times. These tires pull like hell!!! they are radial
tires,and aren't too loud,and they ride better than the BFG AT's.
Marc shirah
95 tacoma reg cab
2.7 four cylinder
auto tranny
31 in Sidewinder MT's
cb radio
2 100 watt off-road lights
- ---------------------------------------------------------
Get Your *Web-Based* Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
- ---------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 21:54:42 -0700
From: James Brink Subject: tacoma
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
marc shirah wrote:>> will installing a glasspacked muffler give me any noticeable gas> mileage/performance gains?I have the 2.7 4-banger.
Mark,
I doubt that just the muffler alone will yeild any gains in the
performance department. I have, however, been working with a '97 4Runner
2.7L/5-speed with the new Downey header and have been quite impressed
with the results, especially on the highway. The rest of the exhaust
system is stock.>> Marc shirah> 95 tacoma reg cab> 2.7 four cylinder> auto tranny> 31 in Sidewinder MT's> cb radio> 2 100 watt off-road lights>> ---------------------------------------------------------> Get Your *Web-Based* Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com> ---------------------------------------------------------
- --
Jim Brink 1986 Standard Bed 4X4/22R
Toyota/ASE Certified Technician 135,000 Miles
brinkjm@earthlink.net 32" BFG All-Terrain T/As
Stock 4.10 gears
Rear Lock-Right (TRD)
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 18:12:23 -0300
From: Dennis & Jane Baker Subject: TAKE ME OFF THE LIST
To: toy4x4-dlist@unix.off-road.com
Please take me off the Toy4x4 Digest mailing list as I will be leaving
for a few weeks.
Thanks.
bakerdj@sympatico.ca
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 12:02:48 -0700
From: nickkrest@batnet.com (Nick Krest)
Subject: Timing & Clutch
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Brian Gallus wrote:
Subject: Timing & Clutch
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
"Picture this, two guys in business suits
and way overpriced dress shoes staring at
a mud hole and actually being stupid enough
to think they can make it through w/o a huge
dry-cleaning bill...Buried the Runner up to
the bumpers and had to jump out to walk to
his house and get his truck and hook up a
tow rope. So there I sat, shoes and socks
off, suit pants rolled up to the knees, tie
getting in the way and freezing my a#@ off!"
Several years ago, I was hauling six of my buddies to a wedding. We were
the groomsmen, or whatever that's called (everybody except for the groom
and the best man) in my pickup, when we (I) saw a great place to go
wheelin' not far off the freeway. We're bouncing around, everybody's
busting up, having a good time, when we hit a deep, slick, and wide mudhole
(open diffs at the time). We're stuck. Wedding's in two hours, what are we
gonna do? Everybody strips to underwear, neatly folds clothes and puts them
in passenger seat, and we start pushing. I stuck the truck in 4 low
reverse, shut the door, and let the tires spin. After half an hour of
pushing, we were out, but totally covered in mud. Everybody except for me
climbs in back, we find a cheap motel (I check in in my underwear, bathed
in mud). We all take a quick shower, get dressed, and we made the wedding
by ten minutes. Nobody except us knew a thing.
- Nick
------------------------------
Date: 17 Apr 1997 10:51:07 -0700
From: "Jay Kopycinski" Subject: To Poly or not to Poly
To: "Toyota 4x4 List" Subject: Time: 9:45 AM
OFFICE MEMO To Poly or not to Poly Date: 4/17/97
Kevin Valentine wrote:>What is a good brand and where can they be had? How much should one>expect to pay for the poly bushings? Is it a big job to install these say>on the leaf springs, etc.?
I personally prefer the softness of rubber over poly, but that is just
me. Poly bushings come in a variety of durometer (hardness) ratings.
Some, like Rancho and the Downey ones, are quite hard. The black
Energy Suspension ones seem to be quite a bit softer. I'd shop for
the softer ones if it were me.
_______________________________________
Jay Kopycinski '85 Toylet (ROKTOY)
Gilbert, AZ
ryna10@email.sps.mot.com
http://www.netzone.com/~jayk
Arizona Lo-Rangers 4WD Club TLCA #3243
_______________________________________
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 07:23:51 -0700
From: nickkrest@batnet.com (Nick Krest)
Subject: torque rod
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Jerry Crandall wrote:
"... my 1983 pickup...has about a 2 to 3 inch
lift...the torque rod was disconnected. It
lacks about .50 inch of lining up to the
mount. Do I need to rotate the axle or can
I just lenghten the rod? If the rod is left
disconnected what ill effect will it have?"
The torque rod helps keep everything straight when you're braking. It is a
very bad idea to not have one. As for it not lining up, that's caused by
non-factory springs or too much lift. I would get a Rancho or Conejo
adjustable torque rod (~$60). This will solve your problem, and you will be
able to compensate for any future front suspension mods you might do.
Good luck,
- Nick
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 12:47:01 -0700 (PDT)
From: Kevin Valentine Subject: torque rod
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Could a torque rod help me or be the/or one of the problems with my
brakes? Its and '88 4Runner and pulls badly (usually to the left) but
I've noticed it pull the the right before. It only pulls when braking
quick and hard.
On Thu, 17 Apr 1997, Nick Krest wrote:> Jerry Crandall wrote:>> "... my 1983 pickup...has about a 2 to 3 inch> lift...the torque rod was disconnected. It> lacks about .50 inch of lining up to the> mount. Do I need to rotate the axle or can> I just lenghten the rod? If the rod is left> disconnected what ill effect will it have?">> The torque rod helps keep everything straight when you're braking. It is a> very bad idea to not have one. As for it not lining up, that's caused by> non-factory springs or too much lift. I would get a Rancho or Conejo> adjustable torque rod (~$60). This will solve your problem, and you will be> able to compensate for any future front suspension mods you might do.>> Good luck,>> - Nick>>> ------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 15:52:22 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jonathan Albrecht Subject: torque rod
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org> Could a torque rod help me or be the/or one of the problems with my> brakes? Its and '88 4Runner and pulls badly (usually to the left) but
I doubt it, unless you've swapped in a solid axle.
__
Jonathan Albrecht
albr9619@uidaho.edu
http://www.uidaho.edu/~albr9619/
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 15:06:01 -0700
From: Wendy Subject: Toy4x4 Digest V1 #130
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org>------------------------------
i don't want any more e-mail from toy 4x4 digest...you sound like a really
nice group but i don't have anything to contribute and i don't care about
fixing trannies and engines, take care and happy four wheeling!!!!
------------------------------
Date: 17 Apr 1997 10:48:14 -0700
From: "Jay Kopycinski" Subject: Track bar designs
To: "Toyota 4x4 List" Subject: Time: 10:44 AM
OFFICE MEMO Track bar designs Date: 4/17/97
Locke Christman wrote:>This is probably a dumb question, but what is a Heim joint and where can>a common example be found?
Not dumb at all. Heim joints are also know as spherical rod ends.
They are similar to a tie rod end but instead of a studded ball that
swivels, they have a steel sphere with a hole in it. You place a bolt
thru the hole to attach it. There are other varieties of rod ends, but
this type is most common in the sizes we are interested in.
Heims aren't typically used in production cars and trucks because
they are expensive and do not last as long as typical tie rod ends.
The can be found on some farm and industrial machinery and are
often used in race car suspensions. Aftermarket four-link kits
use them and I am seeing more and more showing up on the steering
systems of trail vehicles.
You can buy them at most bearing supply houses, Grainger, Jeg's,
Summit, etc. They come in varying strengths in steel, chromoly,
etc.
_______________________________________
Jay Kopycinski '85 Toylet (ROKTOY)
Gilbert, AZ
ryna10@email.sps.mot.com
http://www.netzone.com/~jayk
Arizona Lo-Rangers 4WD Club TLCA #3243
_______________________________________
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 15:45:48 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jonathan Albrecht Subject: Track bar designs
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org>>>This is probably a dumb question, but what is a Heim joint and where can>>a common example be found?
There is a pretty good picture of them on that one red Chevy in four
wheeler. Um, page 82, May. Also, I heard that the guy spend $30,000 on
that front suspension, is that right??
Say that reminds me, I've been meaning to fill out that sheet for the top
truck challenge. I'm planning on putting in a vote for Glenn Wakefield
(from the offroad mailing list, number 59). Anybody else have any trucks
they want me to throw a vote in for?
__
Jonathan Albrecht
albr9619@uidaho.edu
http://www.uidaho.edu/~albr9619/
------------------------------
Date: 17 Apr 1997 10:53:18 -0700
From: "Jay Kopycinski" Subject: Transmission upgrade
To: "Toyota 4x4 List" Subject: Time: 10:16 AM
OFFICE MEMO Transmission upgrade Date: 4/17/97
callahan@CCIT.ARIZONA.EDU (Phil Callahan) wrote:
snip>Given the expertise of this newsgroup, does>anyone have any suggestions as to which model/year tranny I>should be looking for, given that I will using the 22R, but>anticipating a 4.3 upgrade in the future?
Toyota went back to the removeable beelhousing in late '84.
This is the type tranny you will need to mate it to the 4.3.
'85 and later trannies are the most problem free.
_______________________________________
Jay Kopycinski '85 Toylet (ROKTOY)
Gilbert, AZ
ryna10@email.sps.mot.com
http://www.netzone.com/~jayk
Arizona Lo-Rangers 4WD Club TLCA #3243
_______________________________________
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 13:21:13 -0700 (PDT)
From: Chris Willoughby Subject: Transmission upgrade
To: callahan@CCIT.ARIZONA.EDU, list Toyota4x4 My 82 transmission is crapped out too, only after 50k miles of mostly
highway driving, If at all possible, avoid the $950 rebuild since you
will have to replace that one in a short time. I am still trying to
figure out what to do on this problem, I don't want to replace mine with
another piece of $900 S**t!!, especially an older truck. I have talked
to a local wreking yard here in Reno, and they said that putting in an 84
or newer transmission has a great deal of modifications and welding
required. That was just one source of info. Also, try taking the
transmission in to a transmission shop, and have yours rebuilt if you
decide to go this route. I only had to spend $500-600 on mine, provided
that my input shaft wasn't all gauled up from the bearings going out.
the $950 is probably to cover ther butt at the parts store in case all
of the gears and shafts aren't any good. I'll keep you posted if I find out
more on this nightmare of a Toyota 4x4 problem.
- -CHris
+=========================================================================+
| Chris H Willoughby ________ |
| Center for Neotectonic Studies /\ \____________ |
| Mail Stop 169 \ \ \ |
| University of Nevada, Reno OoOooOOooO\ \/ |
| Reno, NV 89509 \ooOoOOOoo |
| (702)323-7346 (h), (702)784-1764 (o) ............\ |
| \....... |
| email: chrisw@seismo.unr.edu |
| website: http//:www.seismo.unr.edu/neotectonics/Willough.html |
+=========================================================================+
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 07:36:45 -0600
From: "Steve and Carole" Subject: tru-tracks or detroit
To: "Toyota Info TLCA" Has any one person had one and switched to the other? Why did you switch
and are you happy now?
I have a 86 4runner with a EZ locker up front and a Detroit Softlocker in
the rear. I put the Softlocker in the rear because of its bullet proof
strength. This type of locker you can install and forget about it. The EZ
locker uses the existing diff carrier and center pin. the dog teeth on the
EZ locker are much smaller than the teeth on the Softlocker. Your rear diff
gets a lot of use and abuse. This is why I choose the Softlocker for the
rear. I know this locker can stand up to the test of time.
steve
fourxtoy@thuntek.net
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 17:42:02 -0700
From: Sterling Rorden Subject: Tru-Tracks or Detroit Locker
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
I just went through the same dilema about Tru-Tracks vs Lockers. I
decided on TruTracks front and rear. I use my truck mostly on the road
and don't like the idea of driving through a wet corner with torque
applied only to the inside wheel (which is how a locker works). I have
not tried the TruTracks off-road yet so I can not comment about their
off-road performance.
Good Luck on your decision,
Sterling
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 1997 23:48:10 -0500
From: Steve Capuano Subject: truck pet names
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
At 06:03 PM 4/11/97 PDT, you wrote:>>>"4 Wheel Jive -thats mine>Jenny is also a very good choice, I kinda like it :) just dont ever name a>tracker or a suzuki Jenny, or I'll have to open up a can of whoop-ass on ya!!>>-Jenny Gibson>> Damn! What a feelin'!!! She gonna open two cans if you don't fess up
that you already have! The next years KIA is supposedly gonna be called the Gennie.
Steve Capuano
capuano@hypercon.com
NRA lifetime member
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 12:02:53 -0700
From: nickkrest@batnet.com (Nick Krest)
Subject: TruTrac or Detroit Locker
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Chris Geiger wrote:
"In the next two weeks I plan on installing
4:88 gears and lockers front and rear. I
plan to use the TruTrac up front but as
still unsure about the rear. If you have a
Detroit locker in the rear, are you happy?"
Yep.
Bad things about a locker:
- accelerated tire wear
- accelerated u-joint wear
I wouldn't recommend a Locker for cruisin' the streets of IV, but if you do
some meaningful wheeling, then my answer to you would be, "Go for it, my
friend."
- Nick
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 97 17:37:00 -0500
From: Rosenberger Bud Subject: TruTrac or Detroit Locker
To: "mail@UUCP {Toy4x4@tlca.org}" ,
How about just putting a locker in the front axle to eliminate the wear
issues but still have the locker benefits in 4wd? I have no experience
with them but I'm all ears on this subject. Bud
----------
From: Nick Krest
Sent: Thursday, April 17, 1997 12:02 PM
To: Rosenber; 'mail@UUCP '
Subject: Re: TruTrac or Detroit Locker
Chris Geiger wrote:
"In the next two weeks I plan on installing
4:88 gears and lockers front and rear. I
plan to use the TruTrac up front but as
still unsure about the rear. If you have a
Detroit locker in the rear, are you happy?"
Yep.
Bad things about a locker:
- accelerated tire wear
- accelerated u-joint wear
I wouldn't recommend a Locker for cruisin' the streets of IV, but if you
do
some meaningful wheeling, then my answer to you would be, "Go for it, my
friend."
- Nick
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 16:00:06 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jonathan Albrecht Subject: TruTrac or Detroit Locker
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
On Thu, 17 Apr 1997, Rosenberger Bud wrote:> How about just putting a locker in the front axle to eliminate the wear> issues but still have the locker benefits in 4wd? I have no experience> with them but I'm all ears on this subject. Bud
That depends upon how often you use 4wd. At home, I probably keep the
hubs locked 7 months out of the year, and I'm in 4wd in about 4 or 5 of
those. A front locker is a bit harder to live with than a rear one (when
in 4wd), and the steering knuckle cv things (birfields) are somewhat of a
week point (or so I've heard).
__
Jonathan Albrecht
albr9619@uidaho.edu
http://www.uidaho.edu/~albr9619/
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 14:55:54 -0700
From: "Todd and Terry" Subject: Valves and heads and gaskets, oh my
To: Well, I just finished with the wonderful job of replacing the head gasket
on my 87 22R. Since I had the valve job done, now I've got tapping valves
and a whirrring sound when the motor is running. Someone put up some
clearances for cold setting the valve clearance. Can you post them again
or send them to me direct. As far as the whiring sound, ????? It is
constant regardless of RPM.
Help
Todd
P.S. I already set them hot, still noisy as h#$l.
87 Toyota 4X4, EZ Lockers F/R, 30-11.50-15 TSL SX's, 15X8 AR 26's,
RS 5000's, Ramsey F bumper, Custom Nerfs, Custom rear bumper,
Custom body by Sierra Nevada.
------------------------------
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