Toy4x4 Digest Fri, 11 Apr 97 00:30:02 (HST) Volume 1 : Issue 126
Today's Topics:
4130 Tubing
4Runner Interior Panels
88' V6 K&N filters?? (2 msgs)
Auto Tranny problems?? (2 msgs)
BFG mud and all terrain (2 msgs)
BFG Prices
Big Bend
Bio-info
Buick vs. GM
Crawlers (2 msgs)
DAMN!!! What a Feelin'!!!
GM 4.3 swap- needen das lif
Hilux/Double Cab (2 msgs)
Hilux photos
Hollister Hills trip on April 20th
Hollister Trip
just a little stuck.
leaning on '96 Toyota Tacoma
Live axle swap kit....where (2 msgs)
looking for a truck (3 msgs)
lots'o'stuff!
Moab - Part II (3 msgs)
O2 SENSOR (2 msgs)
Oxygen Sensor placement
Real Time (2 msgs)
Secondary air box (3 msgs)
Shock Lenth
Shocks (5 msgs)
Spring Wrap
SST and costs
Stability
Stock Auto strength (2 msgs)
Suspension Travel
That Tippy Tire thread...
Third Member Swap (2 msgs)
Tips on rebuilding starter ('88 4Runner)
Toy4x4 Digest V1 #123
Toyota Rear Brakes (4 msgs)
Truck pet names (3 msgs)
used truck (2 msgs)
V6 head gaskets
Valve Tapping (5 msgs)
which 4x4 mag? (3 msgs)
who needs a filter charger anyway ?
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 1997 09:28:28 -0500
From: Jack Alford Subject: 4130 Tubing
To: toy4x4@tlca.org
At one time someone said they had made a tie rod or a draglink or something
out of 4130 tubing. If anyone has any experience with such, please email
me personally I have a question or two to ask. Thanks.
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Jack Alford Off-Road.com - The best dirt on the net!
jalford@off-road.com http://www.off-road.com/
Decatur, AL
'86 Xcab Toyota Pickup - 33x12.50 BFG MT
Solid Front Axle - Marlin Crawler - ARB's - 4.88's
SFWDA - TLCA #3415 - Rocket City Rock Crawlers
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 1997 13:28:28 +0000
From: sbever@jeffnet.org
Subject: 4Runner Interior Panels
To: TOy4x4@tlca.org
Sorry, I've joined the thread late:
David Wrote:> Let me add my two cents to the discussion of plastic interior trim and> panels.>> I have an 89' 4Runner. The window trim molding was cracked when I> bought it. The plastic trim and panels are made out of ABS plastic.> I mended my cracked trim using ABS cement from the hardware store and> scraps of trim from a wrecked 4Runner. With the patches on the back> side, you can hardly tell the trim was cracked. So far the trim has> held together really well.
What is a good way to repair a small tear in the vinyl panel near the
window?
Thanks,
Scott
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 1997 16:31:05 +0100
From: Earle Rother Subject: 88' V6 K&N filters??
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
I was going to put one of the K&N filters on when I did my headders but
just did not get around to it - what is the general feeling on the
performance gains from the K&N's -pitfalls ? any??
I Have 135,000 miles and I think I am getting a oil leak on the left side
engine none on the pavement just on the engine. I hope it is the valve
cover gasket - valves have never been adjusted - no need to - they sound
great. any one else have any v6 oil leaks?
Earle Rother
ewr@appsig.com
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 1997 16:26:54 -0700
From: Scott Wilson Subject: 88' V6 K&N filters??
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Earle Rother wrote:>> I was going to put one of the K&N filters on when I did my headders but> just did not get around to it - what is the general feeling on the> performance gains from the K&N's -pitfalls ? any??
1st off, there are two types of K&N systems. The replacement filter
that goes in the stock box ~$35, and the full blown add on deal that
uses a bigger filter and add on pieces that modify the air box ~$265.
IMHO, the full blown deal is not worth the money at all. The people
who've tried them can't testify to power increase worth the $265, and
you have to worry about the risk of water going through your intake
because the filter is exposed. Any water splashed up into the engine
compartment has the chance of getting sucked into your intake...bad
news.
I have the ~$35 replacement filter. For $35 I'm very happy with the
performance. You will notice increased horsepower...some. How bad your
car is choking on the filter determines how much a K&N will help. When
I put the K&N replacement into my Prelude Si last year, I couldn't
believe the difference, it was incredible. I put it in the Toy V6 when
I bought it, and yeah, there was improvement, but it wasn't mind
blowing. An added bonus is you know your engine is better protected. I
cleaned mine after a few months of use, and couldn't believe just how
dirty it had gotten. (and this was winter months, not dry summer time)
Plus, the filters are reusable, you can simply clean them and re-oil
them, so over a few years they are not very much more $$ (if any) than
replacing with standard filter.
So in conclusion, I would recommend getting one, but I'd get the cheep
one. ;)
Scott
- --
Scott A. Wilson __o __o __o __o
Santa Clara, CA _'\<,_ _'\<,_ _'\<,_ _'\<,_
swilson@pacbell.net (_)' (_) (_)' (_) (_)' (_) (_)' (_)
http://users.uniserve.com/~rcomber/scottw/scottw.htm
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 1997 19:30:01 -0400 (EDT)
From: PhastPace@aol.com
Subject: Auto Tranny problems??
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Hi All
I've got a strange thing that started up yesterday. I've got a 92 Runner
w/V6 and automatic trans. While driving along at about 40 mph the speedo
started going berzerk bouncing back and forth. I thought it would be nothing
more than the cable going bad. I got to my destination and went to leave,
and then it wouldn't shift out of 1st gear. I stopped, put it in park,
shifted back into gear and it was fine. Today, while driving whenever I
would cometo a complete stop it would start to act up again and jump into low
gear and not shift up. I'm a little panicked at this point fearing the worst
but hoping it's something simple like a vacuum hose off or something. I did
a quick scan underneith and in the engine compartment but didn't see anything
wrong. Any suggestions?
I read at least every other day and think the suggestions that are made are
as good as gold. Thanks!
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 1997 17:30:25 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jonathan Albrecht Subject: Auto Tranny problems??
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org> I've got a strange thing that started up yesterday. I've got a 92 Runner> w/V6 and automatic trans. While driving along at about 40 mph the speedo> started going berzerk bouncing back and forth. I thought it would be nothing> more than the cable going bad. I got to my destination and went to leave,> and then it wouldn't shift out of 1st gear. I stopped, put it in park,> shifted back into gear and it was fine. Today, while driving whenever I
This is a real long shot, but try unhooking your battery for awhile.
Sometimes the computers go into 'limp home' modes...I've never heard of
this problem on a Toyota, but I would imagine it's possible. I've heard
the battery only needs to be unhooked for a minute or so, but I'd probably
just unhook it for a while, just in case.
Jonathan Albrecht
albr9619@uidaho.edu
http://www.uidaho.edu/~albr9619/
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 1997 10:07:11 +0000
From: kristjan@hugvit.is
Subject: BFG mud and all terrain
To: toy4x4@tlca.org
Is there a gread performance difference between
the all terrain and the mud terrain.
Do u think there is any middle way, I use 38" Gateway
mudders on 14" wheels for the snow driving, but those
tires are rather expensive for summer driving on the
highway.
I was wondering if I shold buy Mud's so that I could
use it to drive in some snow and some mud, although
when one is driving in mud here in Iceland u are
driving somewhere u shouldn't, or just go for the
all terrains to have great highway tires.
I saw that u guys/gals where talking about prices,
here in iceland the cheepest 35" mud terrain goes
for about USD324 and the all terrain USD279. It's
rather humorus seeing u bitching about 2-5 dollars :)
kf
(__)
(oo) Kristjan Finnsson, Software Engineer
/-------\/ Hugvit hf, Skutuvogi 1A, IS104 Reykjavik
/ | || Tel: +354 5688070, Fax: +354 5888057
* ||----|| kristjan@hugvit.is
^^^^ ^^^^
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 1997 09:36:43 -0400 (EDT)
From: DRM033@aol.com
Subject: BFG mud and all terrain
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
In a message dated 97-04-10 08:56:20 EDT, you write:> I saw that u guys/gals where talking about prices,> here in iceland the cheepest 35" mud terrain goes> for about USD324 and the all terrain USD279. It's> rather humorus seeing u bitching about 2-5 dollars :)>> kf> I wouldn't complain a lot about $5, but here you get some "great" prices. I
called one place here in TN 3 times one day. I got these prices for the
same tire:
$148, $182, and $160. Are these guys crazy?. I also go through about one set
of tires each year (OK, so I think my truck should corner as fast as a
vette), not to mention the fact that I am in college and can't work that
much. For all this, I do have to watch a few $ when I can.
David
DRM033@aol.com
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 1997 16:15:47 -0400
From: Michael Greenway Subject: BFG Prices
To: toy4x4@tlca.org
Supershops do have real good prices on BFG's. However Sears told me
that they have competitive pricing. They sold me five 35x12.5 BFG M/T for
$135 each. They actually called Supershops on the phone and asked
their current price and bet them.
My 2 cent's
Michael Greenway
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 1997 13:47:07 -0500
From: John Vargus Subject: Big Bend
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Does anyone have any information on big bend 4x4 trails? We'll be in big
bend over memorial day. And suggestions appreciated
Thanks in advance
John Vargus
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 1997 11:29:05 -0500
From: Michael Victor Contreras Subject: Bio-info
To: toy4x4@tlca.org
Name: Michael Victor Contreras
City & State: Corpus Christi, Texas
Country: USA
E-mail address: mcontrer@austinc.edu
Toyota (s) year & model: 93' T-100 SR5 4x4 long bed
Are you a TLCA Member (Y/N/Number?): No
Age: 21
Occupation: College Student
Marital Status: Single
Hobbies: going to the beach/lake, fishing, golf, hunting, just trying to
pass my classes!
How did you find out about the Toyota 4x4 Mailing List: www.off-road.com
General info about your vehicle, self, etc.: haven't done much yet, put 31s
on the stock rims, alarm system, 12 disc CD, rancho 5000s, and a beefed up
clutch. (in that order) Dying to do more once I have the money, time, and
expertise! (or guts enough to just get in there and do it) Hoping to get as
much help as you all are willing to give.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 1997 11:54:40 -0400
From: critchpw@craft.camp.clarkson.edu
Subject: Buick vs. GM
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Okay, I know- every once in a while someone will start a string of this, but
I'm now in the position to seriously look at an engine swap. I've nixed the
V8, which leaves me with the Buick 231 or the Vortec 4.3L. I know Jay has
done an earlier 4.3L swap, and have read everything he's put on the Web
about it. I've made the usual calls to Downey, NWOR, and Advanced Adapters.
I've read in a few places that the Buick has some vibration problems, and
was wondering if anyone here's done one of these conversions, and what
the results were like. Willie Worthy (Fourwheeler) seems to like them
pretty well, but he uses them in J**ps.
Any advice would be GREATLY appreciated.
- -Paul
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 1997 15:58:43 +0000
From: kristjan@hugvit.is
Subject: Crawlers
To: toy4x4@tlca.org
I'm thinking about installing a crawler into my
toy (92 hilux double cab, 22efi) and I was wondering
what's on the market, i.e. what types and ratios.
If you guys can give me some pointers it would be
greatly apreciated.
(__)
(oo) Kristjan Finnsson, Software Engineer
/-------\/ Hugvit hf, Skutuvogi 1A, IS104 Reykjavik
/ | || Tel: +354 5688070, Fax: +354 5888057
* ||----|| kristjan@hugvit.is
^^^^ ^^^^
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 1997 09:40:00 -0700
From: Frank Di Giovanni , shoalseeker@geocities.com
Subject: Crawlers
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
At 03:58 PM 4/10/97 +0000, you wrote:>>>>>I'm thinking about installing a crawler into my>toy (92 hilux double cab, 22efi) and I was wondering>what's on the market, i.e. what types and ratios.>>If you guys can give me some pointers it would be>greatly apreciated.>> Is there any pictures of Hilux on the web where I can see what they look
like? I have never heard of one, or seen one.
_______________________________________________________
Frank Di Giovanni shoalseeker@geocities.com
http://www.geocities.com/Baja/1228/pics.html
1990 Toyota 4 Runner SR5 V6 4X4 2dr.
BFG All-Terrains,Trailmaster Invader sk,Warn combo winch bumper,
Smittybuilt nerfbars, k&n air filter, Hi-lift jack, cb radio, wilson antenna,
Aurora ignition
________________________________________________________
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 1997 06:06:51 -0500
From: Steve Capuano Subject: DAMN!!! What a Feelin'!!!
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org>He probably would have wet his pants if Steve passed him with that V8>conversion!!>>Scott>-->Scott A. Wilson __o __o __o __o>Santa Clara, CA _'\<,_ _'\<,_ _'\<,_ _'\<,_>swilson@pacbell.net (_)' (_) (_)' (_) (_)' (_) (_)' (_)>http://users.uniserve.com/~rcomber/scottw/scottw.htm> Scott, I only got the 3.4 Toy V6!
Steve Capuano
capuano@hypercon.com
NRA lifetime member
------------------------------
Date: 10 Apr 1997 13:46:19 U
From: "Jay Kopycinski" Subject: GM 4.3 swap- needen das lif
To: "Toyota 4x4 List" Subject: Time: 1:28 PM
OFFICE MEMO GM 4.3 swap: needen das liften? Date: 4/10/97
PSHENG@SCUACC.SCU.EDU wrote:>I was wondering, is it physically possible to swap a GM 4.3 V6 into>a solid axle toy (85 'runner in my case) WITHOUT a body or suspension>lift? I want mo' HP, but I don't ever want to lift my truck (I'm>scared of heights)
You could do it, but your upward suspension travel would be VERY
limited due to the close proximity of the axle to oil pan.
_____________________________________________
Jay Kopycinski '85 Toylet (ROKTOY)
Gilbert, AZ
ryna10@email.sps.mot.com
http://www.netzone.com/~jayk
Arizona Lo-Rangers 4WD Club TLCA #3243
_____________________________________________
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 1997 10:39:19 -0700
From: Eric Johnson Subject: Hilux/Double Cab
To: "'Toy4x4@tlca.org'" Frank Di Giovanni wrote:> Is there any pictures of Hilux on the web where I can see what they look> like? I have never heard of one, or seen one.
Well, the Hilux is the generic name for the pre-tacoma pickup truck, so you HAVE seen 'em, but probably didn't realize it. :)
The double cab pickups, however, you probably haven't seen. They're WAY cool. Theres a pic of one in WARN's 1996 catalog, page 33.
Also, check out
http://www.toyota.co.jp/Showroom/All_toyota_lineup/HiluxPickup/HiluxPickup.html
Let me tell you; it was VERY difficult locating this page, as I don't speak japanese! :)
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 1997 14:55:14 -0500
From: Jack Alford Subject: Hilux/Double Cab
To: toy4x4@tlca.org
Frank Di Giovanni wrote:> Is there any pictures of Hilux on the web where I can see what they look> like? I have never heard of one, or seen one.
If you can find an OLD Toyota pickup, they say HILUX on the side of
them in BIG, ugly letters and had external turn signals mounted on tops
of the fenders like land cruisers have. The new pickups are still called
Hilux's, excluding the Tacoma's. The only one I've ever seen was a 1973
model in a junk yard, it was one of the 4x4 conversion ones that had
the Dana 20 tcase and a Dana 30 front axle.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 1997 16:24:22 +0100
From: Earle Rother Subject: Hilux photos
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
for some small photos with english text try...
http://www.toyota.be/UK/Hilux4.htm
When I was in Germany in '91 I saw a 4door 4wd - I did a double take cuz
in the US you don't see them. kind of cool, short bet tho..
Earle Rother
ewr@appsig.com
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 1997 19:12:44 -7 GMT
From: "Leo G. Divinagracia III" Subject: Hollister Hills trip on April 20th
To: offroad@off-road.com, Toy4x4@tlca.org
okay boys and girls,
it's time again to play in the hills. this time we'll have a visitor from
the east coast to tag along.
place: ranger's station, HH SVRA, central california
7800 cienega rd
hollister, ca 95023
408-637-3874
time: 10:45a-11a
date: april 20, 1997, a sunday
cb channel: ch4
bring own lunch and be self sufficient. bring first timers and old
timers are welcome. write back to me, NOT to this list for more specific
questions. i have GPS coordinates for those who needs 'em. i will try
to finish logging the major points of the park. plus i'll have the
digital cam to take more photos...
- -----------------------
Leo G. Divinagracia III
ldivinag@csuhayward.edu
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 1997 11:04:56 -0800
From: Scott Wilson Subject: Hollister Trip
To: Toy 4x4 List I just want to make sure we haven't left anyone out who my be
interested. We've got a group going to Hollister Hills, CA this
Saturday. So far we have 3 trucks confirmed as going, and 6 still
contemplating. It looks like its shaping up to be a half day thing.
We're meeting at the park at 9am and finish up by early afternoon.
For anyone who doesn't know, Hollister is about 1 hour 15 minutes south
of San Jose. If you're interested, mail me direct.
Thanks,
Scott
- --
*****************************************************
Scott Wilson TLCA #5261
88 4Runner SR5 V6
Santa Clara, CA
http://users.uniserve.com/~rcomber/scottw/scottw.htm
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 1997 19:49:39 -0500
From: jbolstad@hamilton.edu (j)
Subject: just a little stuck.
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
so we take brody out to do some off roading today: remember: he needed
attention. this was at four. now its almost nine, and he's not getting to
go out tonight. grounded, perhaps? needless to say, a jeep got stuck
trying to get to him. that added about an hour to the saga. jeeps really
suck. come on: you cant even come close to Brody. at least get stuck
within seeing distance.
anyway. its the worst kind of stuck. earlier in the winter, he got stuck
in some very deep snow. damn v6 is holding it down in the front, while the
back end is spinning away.
the mud is a pleasant light brown, varying from extremely to not so thick.
the front tires have been excavated, as well as a trough that will be
deepend and widened tomorrow. thank god i only have one class.
i am covered in mud. Brody is covered in mud.
does anyone have any hints.
and if anyone even tries to mention the word rain again, well; lets hope
that doesnt happen.>:-#
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 1997 12:07:04 -0500
From: hosse@okway.okstate.edu (Hoss Eubank)
Subject: leaning on '96 Toyota Tacoma
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org, toyota@btoy1.rochester.ny.us
I have a 1996 Toyota Tacoma 4x4 extended cab with 21,000 miles. It
leans towards the passenger side. It is off by 1 inch front and back.
The first dealership I took it to replaced the leaf-springs on both
sides and the right front spring and strut, but it still had the lean.
After pressing them to even it out, they gave me this story that it
was within Toyota specs. for leaning(Bunch of crap) and that there was
nothing further that they could do.
So, I took it to another dealership and explained the problem and the
previous dealership's stance on the subject. They replaced the
leaf-springs with a set of heavy-duty leaf springs that had an
additional leaf. It did not solve the leaning problem, but it sure
gave me additional payload capacity. I have not contacted the
dealership yet since they are located 65 miles from home.
This problem has been prevalent on my truck since about 4000-5000
miles. It was not like this when I bought it new.
Does anybody have any idea what would cause it to lean like this? I
do not haul very many heavy loads and there is nothing in the way of
weighted items in my truck that would cause it to lean further on one
side. It doesn't cause any problems other than it looks crappy
sitting in the parking lot all crooked. All of the other 4x4 Tacomas
that I have seen do not have this problem.
Any advice will be seriously appreciated.
Thanks,
Bill Eubank
e-mail: hosse@okway.okstate.edu
------------------------------
Date: 10 Apr 1997 14:46:33 U
From: "Jay Kopycinski" Subject: Live axle swap kit....where
To: "Toyota 4x4 List" Subject: Time: 2:50 PM
OFFICE MEMO Live axle swap kit....where? Date: 4/10/97
Can someone tell me where they saw the live axle swap ad?
_____________________________________________
Jay Kopycinski '85 Toylet (ROKTOY)
Gilbert, AZ
ryna10@email.sps.mot.com
http://www.netzone.com/~jayk
Arizona Lo-Rangers 4WD Club TLCA #3243
_____________________________________________
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 1997 22:57:37 -0700 (PDT)
From: Chris Geiger Subject: Live axle swap kit....where
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org> Can someone tell me where they saw the live axle swap ad?
May '97 "OFF-ROAD" Page 25 New products
Straight Axle Conversion Kits
JKR
PO Box 713191
Dept. OR
Santee, CA 92072-3191
619-595-3873
Chris Geiger '93 4Runner http://geiger.mcl.ucsb.edu/offroad.html
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 1997 16:40:35 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jonathan Albrecht Subject: looking for a truck
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
This weekend I'm going to be attending some conference thing (I think it's
a design competition, I'm not sure, just watching)...Anyway, I'm going to
be in Seattle for the weekend, and I'd really like to find a truck there.
What I'm looking for:
Preferably '85, but any year is okay
4Runner
EFI (or v6/v8 conversion, carbed okay)
Around 100,000 miles
Body can be slightly beat, but drivetrain must be top notch. (Bald tires,
worn shocks, and those kinds of things are fine though, cause I hope to
replace that stuff real soon)
I checked the truck trader, and found one I'm going to call on tonight,
but I'm not getting my hopes up. I also found an '84 with a 350/th350 :),
and the price is right, but it's probably a beater..
Anyway, if anybody in the Seattle area (or Spokane, I live in Moscow,
Idaho, 8 miles from Pullman, Washington) has or knows of a truck for sale
like this, PLEASE tell me about it. Like I said, I'm looking to buy this
weekend.
Oh yeah, looking to spend 4000-8000, but depending upon condition/options
I could pay a bit more.
Thanks!
Jonathan Albrecht
albr9619@uidaho.edu
http://www.uidaho.edu/~albr9619/
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 1997 20:04:43 -0500
From: Galen Sinkey Subject: looking for a truck
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
There is an '85 4R in the paper here for $2000. No idea what it looks
like. Ad says it 'runs good'. The contact # in the ad is 319-365-4135.
- -- Galen Sinkey
Cedar Rapids, IA
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 1997 18:32:53 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jonathan Albrecht Subject: looking for a truck
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Oh yeah, one other thing I just found out (regarding looking for a truck
this weekend), I guess I'm leaving at 8:30 fri morning, so if any of you
find a truck, let me know asap!
thanks again,
Jonathan Albrecht
albr9619@uidaho.edu
http://www.uidaho.edu/~albr9619/
------------------------------
Date: 10 Apr 1997 16:50:57 U
From: "Jay Kopycinski" Subject: lots'o'stuff!
To: "Toyota 4x4 List" Subject: Time: 10:19 AM
OFFICE MEMO lots'o'stuff! Date: 4/10/97
"Alan Anderson" wrote:
snip>I was also going to try to find out>what kind of job it would be to put a pair of dana 60's under the>little monster? How many banana's?.......( I allready have a small block>chevy, nv4500, and double marlin's,......) is it worth the effort for the>strength that I will get/improve ?
Depends on why you feel you need to change and what you are trying
to improve?
Dana 60s are strong, but big and heavy too. You gain strength, but
sacrifice some ground clearance. If you use an uncut Dana 60, track
will be much wider than stock. If you want a narrow Dana 60 (rear)
with off-the-shelf parts, you can use an axle off a late 70s Ford van
which had an offset pumpkin. Using two pairs of short axles and
tubes will allow you to assemble a narrow Dana 60 with factory
parts.
The harder axle to mate up will be the front. Here are some
concerns I see when considering the swap.
You will have to devise spring perches to mate the axle to the
your springs. Custom u-bolts and other parts may be needed for
spring mounting. The stock perches will probably be too wide
for the Toy springs. Probably best to remove them and weld on
some new ones to set the caster you want.
A custom steering setup will be required meaning you will probably
need to mount up a different steering box and possibly a higher
volume/pressure pump to drive it.
Dana 60s generally come in 8 lug bolt pattern. You will have to
consider this with respect to the wheels you plan to use.
Depending on the type and size brakes you use you may be able to
retain your current master cylinder, or may have to swap out
to a larger one to move more fluid to the brakes.
You will need to change the driveshaft mating at the axle. You
could keep the Toy driveshafts or upgrade somewhat. The
u-joints will be the weak link between the transfer case
and the axles. You may find the Toy u-joints breaking too
often with the added inertia of the heavier axle assemblies
and may want to upsize.
There may be other considerations I've forgotten. Keep us
posted if you decide to do the swap. It'd be great to see what
is involved.
_____________________________________________
Jay Kopycinski '85 Toylet (ROKTOY)
Gilbert, AZ
ryna10@email.sps.mot.com
http://www.netzone.com/~jayk
Arizona Lo-Rangers 4WD Club TLCA #3243
_____________________________________________
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 1997 11:19:59 -0500
From: Jack Alford Subject: Moab - Part II
To: toy4x4@tlca.org
At the end of Part I of my Moab saga, we had just hit the highway
after completing the Golden Spike trail. We head south the 8-9 miles
down 191 back into Moab and pull into our temporary home, Slick Rock
Campground, to clean up a bit from the long day on the trail before
we go out for dinner. It had been a long day, we hit the trail at
around 8am and got off the trail at around 6:30pm, a full day of
driving it was. Just as we pull into the campground a blue 40-series
Land Cruiser swerves in front of me like he's going to ram me head on.
He then swerves back and pulls up beside me, only then is it that I
realize that this is the final member of our group saying hello.
It was John Barron and his girlfriend, Lori H., and German Shephard,
Cass, from Vancouver, B.C., Canada in his diesel powered
BJ-42, as he pulled along side we said hello's and he relayed that he
was going to run into town but would be right back. We pull on into camp
and clean up, then we head into Moab for dinner at a so-so, mexican restaurant.
As we're waiting out of the cold in the entrance of the restaurant (remember
that it snowed early that day!), Rick Pewe, Petersen's Four Wheel & Off-Road
Tech guru and writer, walks up and is paying the cashier, Jay had known
Rick previously from when he ran a 4x4 shop in Phoenix and I had meet him
the previous summer at the Rubithon, which he was shooting for the mag.
We talked with him for a minute and they left. There were several other
fellows with him, one of whom I believe was Phil Howell the editor of
4WD&SU. It was neat to talk with someone again who's articles and pics
you see in the mags. We have a mexican dinner and reluctantly head
back out into the cold and back to camp to get in our tents and try to
stay warm during the windy night.
We awake the next morning to a beautiful sunrise moving slowly across the
canyon floor toward us, Hoping the sun would get high enough to reach us
soon so we could enjoy it's solar heating as it was quite cold. We piddle
around camp a bit and then head out to the meeting spot for our days
trail ride, Rose Garden Hill (which was a 4). We find the location and
get in line and sign our liability waivers that the trail leader is
passing out.
The group then lines up and heads out. This trail had about 22 miles of
asphalt driving at the beginning and ending of the trail. We drove the
22 miles to the trail head, stopped and aired down and locked in. I hadn't
aired up from the day before so the 22 miles to the trail head going
55 mph with 15 lbs of air was an exhilirating drive to say the least.
After airing down and locking in our group moved on down the long dusty
road and slowly weaved our way back into a canyon after several
(22 to be exact) creek crossings. This trail gets it's name from the
large hill that is really the beginning of the actual difficult
(and in my opinion the only difficult part of this trail). Most all of
our group was locked front and rear and had no problems climbing the
short ledges going up the hill. From the top of the hill the view was
marvelous, the trail skirted around the edge of a large canyon with
some snow covered peaks far off in the background. Then the trail turned
inward from the edge of the canyon and the trail became just a rough,
rocky, bumpy road for the most part with the occasional ledge to scale.
While this trail was not that overly difficult, the views it provided
were marvelous to me the Moab first-timer.
The trail turned out to be a loop and we returned down the long, steep
Rose Garden Hill which we had climbed earlier in the day. After
descending the hill our trail leader asked if we would like to
drive down the creek we had crossed so many times on the trip in.
Our group, most of whom were a bit dissappointed with the trails
4 rating were eager for a challenge and I believe all drove into the
creek.
I must say that driving the creek was the highlift of the days trail riding.
The creek wound through a narrow, tall canyon with various boulders
strewn about that made the trail fun. At one point someone cut a tire on
the sharp rocks and the group stopped and some of us took turns using a large
rock as a make-to RTI ramp and drove as far as we could or felt comfortable
doing up onto the rock for some photos. The angle of the sun made the sandstone
walls of the canyon truly beautiful as it shone on the wavy walls of
the tight canyon that had been smoothed by thousands of years of sand and
water passing by them.
After waiting long enough for the punctured tire to be replaced the vehicle
next in line behind it decides that there is just enough room to pass
the vehicle. We all get back in our trucks and make the tight,leaning
pass of the vehicle replacing the tire. We head on down the creek which
had several challenging spots which required picking the correct line
or receiving body damage from the canyon walls or other large rocks.
As we headed on down the trail there was one point where the creek made
a sharp right hand turn around a large rockand then and immediate left back
around the HUGE rock. John's hard-topped BJ42 was having a bit of
difficulty negotiating the rock. Evidently the extra weight of the hardtop
was causing his 'cruiser to lean more on the sidehill pitching his top
periously close to hitting the rock. After jockying for the optimal line he
slowly crept forward as myself and his girlfriend Lori pushed against his
hard top and held it off the rock as he passed by.
Next was my turn, my long wheelbase made it a bit more difficult as
did my soft springs which really let the body of the truck lean. But
my short cab compared to John's full hardtop made it a bit easier. John
pushed back a bit on my cab as I drove by and held my cab off the rock.
We quickly left the group of J**ps behind us and headed on up the creek,
Jay found a large, angled rock that he drove his drivers front tire up
on to test his suspension, which worked quite well. Next was my turn,
I was quite surprised to find that my rear axle could pitch so far
to one side when one side was at full droop and the other at
near max. compression that the bump stop atop the springs would miss
the bump stop on the frame by quite a good distance. The bump stop was
about an 1" to the right of the frame mounted bump stop and the end of the
bump stop was about 1-2" past the end of the frame mounted stop.
The trail continued on with several obstacles and windy turns through the
narrow canyon which the creek ran. The drive up the creek was definitely
the highlight of the day and I highly recommend driving that creek for
anyone running that trail.
Once out of the creek and back onto the dirt road, we shifted into 2-hi
and raced back to the paved road on the loose sandy road. Having driven
across the numerous creek crossings that morning we knew that the
creek was only several inches deep and contained no large rocks. We all
had a good time blasting through the creek crossings and washing the
build up of red dust off of our trucks from the day of dusty trail riding.
Once at the end of the dirt road, we stopped and unlocked the hubs and
enjoyed being able to air up for the 22 mile drive back to town via
John's on-board air. After airing up and looking at the large range cow
grazing quite close by we headed back into town for dinner at Pizza Hut.
After dinner we stopped into the Slick Rock T-shirt company to look at all
the t-shirts they had designed for all the different trails around Moab.
They had a TV playing demo's of Rick Russell's video tapes and was stopped
for a moment to watch. Just as we were walking out the door, Rick walks
in, and I say to Jay jokingly "and there he is, Rick Rusell". He stops
and says hello and gives us each one of his Side-Kick OffRoad calendars.
Not that we asked, but he autographed them none-the-less ... He asked
of our days trail ride and Jay ribbed him a bit saying that it'd been
a good day if we hadn't had to wait on broken down J**ps all day. To
which he exclaimed, "You guys must drive Toyota's huh ??" We laughed
and said off course. We talked with him a bit more, thanked him
for the calendars and then headed back to camp.
Back at the camp ground we heard rumors that our friend and legendary
Suzuki Sammi driver was camped nearby and working on his troubled rig.
We stop by and exchange hello's and discuss his woes. John evidently
stayed up most the night tuning on Glenn's dual-Mikuni'd 1600cc motor
as the rest of us turned in.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 1997 13:49:45 -0500
From: Galen Sinkey Subject: Moab - Part II
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Jack,
Just curious -- is the rating 4 on a 1-5 scale?
I wish there was a more standardized way of rating trails. I see people
using 1-3, 1-5, 1-10, with either the low or high number for greater
difficulty.
Thanks for the trip reports. I enjoy them a lot.
- -- Galen
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 1997 14:44:29 -0500
From: Jack Alford Subject: Moab - Part II
To: toy4x4@tlca.org
Galen wrote:>Just curious -- is the rating 4 on a 1-5 scale?
The scale used at Moab is the one the Red Rock FourWheelers (the
group who runs the Safari) uses. Their scale is from 1-4+ with
4+ being the most difficult and the trail guide says something
like "4+ - only for world class yahoo jeepers with no fear of
body damage or parts breakage ... blah .. blah">I wish there was a more standardized way of rating trails. I see people>using 1-3, 1-5, 1-10, with either the low or high number for greater>difficulty.
Me too, it's sortof hard to get standardized since nobody's really ridden
EVERY trail in the US to be able to rate them all the same way.>Thanks for the trip reports. I enjoy them a lot.
Thanks, hopefully I can finish it up one of these days. I hope to
have my pics scanned soon.
- jack
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 1997 13:23:37 -0400
From: Jughead Subject: O2 SENSOR
To: toy4x4@tlca.org
I have a Downey header with 2.5" tubing and a flowmaster (no cat.
conv.) on my 22RE. When I installed the exhaust system I mounted the
oxygen sensor in the same location it was in the factory system (approx.
a foot behind the trans. cross-member).
I am about to redo the whole system in stainless steel. What I was
wanting to know was if it's best to put the oxygen sensor where I have
it now, or if it would be ok to move it closer to the engine (possibly
on the collector of the header)?
- ---------------------------------------------------------------------
James Owens
(Jughead@141.com) '92 Std. Cab 4x4 w/22RE
Machinist 5.71 w/ Det. Locker & True-trac
Williston,Fla. 36x12.5x15 Super Swampers
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 1997 14:52:46 -0500
From: Jack Alford Subject: O2 SENSOR
To: toy4x4@tlca.org>wanting to know was if it's best to put the oxygen sensor where I have>it now, or if it would be ok to move it closer to the engine (possibly>on the collector of the header)?
The most important thing about placing an 02 sensor is to try and keep it
the same distance from the engine as the original was. 02 sensors work alot
off of heat so the distance from the engine is critical for the computer
to run the engine correctly, I'd put the 02 sensor back where it was on the
stock exhaust.
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Jack Alford Off-Road.com - The best dirt on the net!
jalford@off-road.com http://www.off-road.com/
Decatur, AL
'86 Xcab Toyota Pickup - 33x12.50 BFG MT
Solid Front Axle - Marlin Crawler - ARB's - 4.88's
SFWDA - TLCA #3415 - Rocket City Rock Crawlers
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 1997 10:45:33 -0600
From: Tony Bartlett Subject: Oxygen Sensor placement
To: toy4x4@tlca.org
I think you want if fairly close to the manifold, to work properly they
need to be hot, nowdays they have built in heaters so they can put them
before and after the cat. to keep an eye on efficiency. you could buy
one with a heater if you need to put it downstream a little.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 1997 19:00:40 +0000
From: David Booth Subject: Real Time
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Please switch me over to "Real Time". Thanks.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 1997 18:14:25 -0700
From: Scott Wilson Subject: Real Time
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org, dfbooth01@worldnet.att.net
David Booth wrote:>> Please switch me over to "Real Time". Thanks.
Please send your request to as the message you
were sent when you got on the list asked you to. You know, the one it
seems no one reads?!
Scott
- --
Scott A. Wilson __o __o __o __o
Santa Clara, CA _'\<,_ _'\<,_ _'\<,_ _'\<,_
swilson@pacbell.net (_)' (_) (_)' (_) (_)' (_) (_)' (_)
http://users.uniserve.com/~rcomber/scottw/scottw.htm
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 1997 10:01:39 -0400
From: Ed.Wong@astramerck.com
Subject: Secondary air box
To: " - (052)Toy4x4 (a) tlca.org" ,
Chris:
ITs my understanding that the "secondary" airbox is there to act as a "damper"
for
the air resonator feed (where that hose leads to).
In other words - its a muffler - it helsp keep the "wooshing" noise down.
Since yer puttin in a K&N - yer gonna get an increase in *wooshing*
(in more ways than one) - so you can bypass that air *muffler*.
Im not sure if CA considers it "tampering" tho.
EWong
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 1997 11:08:33 -0700 (PDT)
From: Kevin Valentine Subject: Secondary air box
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
I thought I read somewhere that the secondary box was a charcoal filter?
I'm sure it will run with out it, but does it do anything to emissions?
On Wed, 9 Apr 1997, Chris Geiger wrote:>> goes through a smaller hose to that secondary air box, then to the>> engine. My question is, what is the purpose of this secondary air box?>> I'd like to remove it if possible, and just run a straight hose, instead>> There is no purpose for the second air box. You can run a hose from the> mass air sensor to the engine. and it works fine.>> Chris Geiger '93 4Runner http://geiger.mcl.ucsb.edu/offroad.html>>> ------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 1997 11:39:29 -0700 (PDT)
From: Chris Geiger Subject: Secondary air box
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org> I thought I read somewhere that the secondary box was a charcoal filter?> I'm sure it will run with out it, but does it do anything to emissions?>>> goes through a smaller hose to that secondary air box, then to the>>> engine. My question is, what is the purpose of this secondary air box?>>> I'd like to remove it if possible, and just run a straight hose, instead>>>> There is no purpose for the second air box. You can run a hose from the>> mass air sensor to the engine. and it works fine.
No there is nothing in the second box, I have seen inside and there is
nothing, I ran a hose from the engine to the mass air sensor and it worked
fine. It's is just a stupid box!
There is a charcoal canister near the fire wall, but that is on the other
side of the engine. There is also a vacume canister for the ADD system
under the right fender (unless you have taken it out like I have).
Chris Geiger 93 4Runner http://geiger.mcl.ucsb.edu/offroad.html
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 1997 15:53:23 -0800
From: Scott Wilson Subject: Shock Lenth
To: Toy 4x4 List When I bought my truck I had no idea I would put a 2" lift on the back
only 2 months later...so when I bought my Rancho 5000's I bought them
for a 88 4Runner with NO lift. Now, I notice my rear articulation is
being held back by my shocks (I learned this in my garage, not the
trail).
So, my question is...what is gonna be the best length shock for me to
buy? Or is it as simple as going down to 4WPW and telling them I have
an 88 4Runner with a 2" lift and they give me the correct length
shock? BTW, I will be replacing them with Rancho 5000's. I am VERY
happy with their performance.
Also, for after I buy the longer shocks...is there anyone out there
interested in saving a little dough by buying two Rancho 5000's w/only
5k miles on 'em? (Remember, they have a lifetime warranty) I don't
know the model # off hand, but they're for a STOCK height 1st generation
4Runner (but I'm sure they'll fit on A LOT of other models)
Thanks for any input,
Scott
- --
*****************************************************
Scott Wilson TLCA #5261
88 4Runner SR5 V6
Santa Clara, CA
http://users.uniserve.com/~rcomber/scottw/scottw.htm
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 1997 10:18:32 -0400
From: Ed.Wong@astramerck.com
Subject: Shocks
To: " - (052)Toy4x4 (a) tlca.org" ,
Eric Johnson wrote:
The sensatracs ARE a little different than the others, in that while most
shocks have velocity-sensitive valving, the monroes have position-sensitive
valving. Its a real cool design, where the shock gets stiffer at the ends
of its travel.
<<< Subject: Shocks
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Do the Bilsteins give a hard or choppy ride? You mentioned they were
hard. I did not get that out of the previous posts regarding shocks. I'm
trying to get a shock that will provide a smoother ride than my
Firestone's which seem pretty stiff on my '88 4Runner.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 1997 14:09:29 -0500
From: John Vargus Subject: Shocks
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
At 10:58 AM 4/10/97 -0700, you wrote:>Do the Bilsteins give a hard or choppy ride? You mentioned they were>hard. I did not get that out of the previous posts regarding shocks. I'm>trying to get a shock that will provide a smoother ride than my>Firestone's which seem pretty stiff on my '88 4Runner.>> My experience with bilsteins is a very soft ride. I was amazed at the
difference the bilsteins made in pre-running. With my current configuration
of dual bilstiens and cranked in torsion bars, the ride is very bouncy. In
my opinion i found the bilstiens to have the right amount of soft valving
for the toyotas. The wheels stuck to the road, on compression very soft
with stock setup. Once the torsion bars were cranked the ride changed
nsomewhat to a bounce.
Just my opnion, ive tried ranchos, kybs, doetch teschs, and bilsteins. And
im completely sold on the bilsteins.
John Vargus
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 1997 16:00:06 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jonathan Albrecht Subject: Shocks
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org> Do the Bilsteins give a hard or choppy ride? You mentioned they were> hard. I did not get that out of the previous posts regarding shocks. I'm> trying to get a shock that will provide a smoother ride than my> Firestone's which seem pretty stiff on my '88 4Runner.
Thought I'd make a little clarification: I said that the Bilsteins were a
little soft, but I also wrote (or at least I think I did) that that was on
my dad's '93 1/2 ton chevy. No experiences with the Toyota ones... but
you'd think they'd be similar..
Jonathan Albrecht
albr9619@uidaho.edu
http://www.uidaho.edu/~albr9619/
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 1997 07:34:16 -0700
From: Eric Johnson Subject: Shocks
To: "'Ed.Wong@astramerck.com'" On Thursday, April 10, 1997 7:18 AM, Ed.Wong@astramerck.com wrote:> Eric Johnson wrote:> The sensatracs ARE a little different than the others, in that while most> shocks have velocity-sensitive valving, the monroes have
position-sensitive> valving. Its a real cool design, where the shock gets stiffer at the ends> of its travel.> <<<<>> Whups - I stand corrected.>> I wasnt aware that there were "affordable" position sensative shocks on
the> market.
I wouldn't mind trying a set. If they were adjustable, that would be great,
but they aren't.
They implement the position-sensitivity by cutting fine grooves along the
inside of the body of the shock, but only in the center. The piston, when
in the grooved area, gets a lot of fluid 'blowby', softening the dampening.
But when the shock piston moves towards either end, the grooves taper off,
there is less blowby, and a stiffer dampening. Its a very clever and
cheap-to-produce design.
- --
- - ej@blarg.net
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 1997 10:01:55 -0600
From: Brian Smillie Subject: Spring Wrap
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 23:16:24 -0500 (CDT)
From: gfrancis@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (Greg S. Francis)
Subject: Spring Wrap
To: toy4x4@tlca.org
I've been reading posts refering to axle wrap w/ soft rear springs, and it
seems to be a big problem. I'm assuming it's a "you'll know it when it
happens" sort of phenomonon, but what are the symptoms? How does one know
that it is happening, and what, if anything, does it hurt?
Just curious,
- - -Greg>>>>>I once had to deal with axel wrap first I noticed a speed wobble that I
thought were my BFG 35" muds untill one day my rear U-joint on my driveshaft
blew up. As a result of axel wrap.I ended up replacing the U-joint and
replacing my U-bolts. After only 6 months I reilized axel wrap was back. I
replaced the U-bolts with grade 8 U-bots custom made and put on Rancho
kicker shocks. I have nevery worried about it since and dont need to. You
can also get a bar to prevent axel wrap and this wont effect your
suspension, But I found it more expensive and not as nice looking. Hope this
is what you were looking for,
Derek Luymes
------------------------------
Date: 10 Apr 1997 14:42:25 U
From: "Jay Kopycinski" Subject: SST and costs
To: "Toyota 4x4 List" Subject: Time: 2:45 PM
OFFICE MEMO SST and costs Date: 4/10/97
Ed.Wong@astramerck.com wrote:>For those who didnt know - the SSTs are imported into the US by OTC - or>Owatoona Tool Company. They supply the big three as well with "specialized"
tools.
FYI..........
Owatonna Tool Company
655 Eisenhower Road
Owatonna, MN 55060
800-533-5338
507-455-7106 (fax)
_____________________________________________
Jay Kopycinski '85 Toylet (ROKTOY)
Gilbert, AZ
ryna10@email.sps.mot.com
http://www.netzone.com/~jayk
Arizona Lo-Rangers 4WD Club TLCA #3243
_____________________________________________
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 1997 12:04:50 -0500 (CDT)
From: twogrls@ix.netcom.com
Subject: Stability
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
You wrote:>Actually the tires have a lot to do with stability Jack.>I will agree with you that adding a larger set of tires does raise>the center of gravity but I will say that I've ridden in plenty of trucks>with BIG (36"+) tires and the truck felt much more stable than my truck>with my relatively small 33" tires. While raising the center of gravity>does play some part in it, like I said before, the softness of the
suspension>cannot be overlooked either.
I would add that the width of the tires and the offset of the rims can more
than compinsate for the additional height of the tire (Not excessive
lift/tire size) A wider footprint will change your rollover piont the same
way that the lenght between you axles (wheelbase) changes where you can go.
As with everything about four wheeling you need to gently/carefully test
your limits and then live within then.
Footnote: I dont try a dangerous new hill with my kids in the truck and go
gently the first time. Body damage can always be pulled -- kids cannot be
replaced.
Also It may not look cool to walk up the hill or accross the river and see
what you are getting into but it is always smart.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Mike Pelland 1994 Red Extracab Toyota
twogrls@ix.netcom.com 31X10.5 BFGs, Lockrite, RS9000;s
San Antonio, TX 4.88's,Downey SC clutch,
Tread lightly, TLCA Member, SWFWDA Ramsey Winch,
http://pw2.netcom.com/~twogrls/mptruck.html
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 97 10:50:44 CST
From: "Brian Gallus" Subject: Stock Auto strength
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Hi all,
Just received a strange call from one of our local 4x4 shops here in
MN. Apparently they have a customer with a 1990 Runner who is
contemplating a small block engine swap but wants to put it in front
of the stock Toyota automatic tranny. They asked me if I know anyone
who has done that or if the tranny will even hold up....
The information I have is that the tranny is in need of a rebuild
anyway, and the customer is looking to "beef it up" a bit to handle
the torque of the 350. I'm assuming that a 700R4 would be a MUCH
better idea, but don't know if the stock transfer case is the same as
the behind the earlier automatics or not. I haven't seen any adapters
for a 700R4 to early chain drive t-case, nor do I know if it will even
handle more power. Also, I don't know if the current engine is a 22r
or 3.0, though my guess is it's the v6.
So, not knowing the answer, I have turned to my best resource... Has
anyone done this? Recommendations?
Jay, I'm sure you could give me, and the customer, a million reasons
to go with the 700r4, but even a small list would suffice!
Thanks,
Brian Gallus
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 1997 09:24:08 -0700
From: Eric Johnson Subject: Stock Auto strength
To: "'Toy4x4@tlca.org'" Brian Gallus wrote:> Just received a strange call from one of our local 4x4 shops here in> MN. Apparently they have a customer with a 1990 Runner who is> contemplating a small block engine swap but wants to put it in front> of the stock Toyota automatic tranny. They asked me if I know
anyone> who has done that or if the tranny will even hold up....
My understanding is that Advance used to make a bellhousing for this swap;
but it required a jeep torque converter, and the swaps really just didn't
generally work right for one reason or another. I don't think strength was
a reason. I believe this same tranny was used in some Jeep Cherokees (hence
the jeep torque converter). Downey used to catalog the part, but they don't
any more. I'd give Advance a call.> The information I have is that the tranny is in need of a rebuild> anyway, and the customer is looking to "beef it up" a bit to handle> the torque of the 350. I'm assuming that a 700R4 would be a MUCH> better idea, but don't know if the stock transfer case is the same
as> the behind the earlier automatics or not. I haven't seen any
adapters> for a 700R4 to early chain drive t-case, nor do I know if it will
even> handle more power. Also, I don't know if the current engine is a
22r> or 3.0, though my guess is it's the v6.
My guess is you'll need to get a transfer case from a junkyard. The tranny
bolted up to the A340H is a hydraulic unit, and actually takes tranny fluid
instead of gear oil. If it were me, I'd get a T-case from Marlin while
you're at it... :)> Jay, I'm sure you could give me, and the customer, a million reasons> to go with the 700r4, but even a small list would suffice!
while I love my A340H, here's a couple good reasons not to use it in a
smallblock conversion:
1) The parts might not be available to adapt the 340H to a smallblock.
2) You can probably buy a 700R4 for what a A340H rebuild would cost.
3) There's no doubt whatsoever that a 700R4 can handle the torque of a 350
( i presume its a 350...? 383 maybe? THAT would be cool)
4) Swapping in a non-auto T-case makes a marlin crawler or at least a
gearset a possibility.
5) Every tranny shop on the planet should know how to build and service a
700R4.
I don't know the 700R4 gear ratios off hand, but the A340H ratios (and
those of all toyota trannies I know of) can be had at
http://www.off-road.com/4runner
then click on the "Toyota Engines and Trannies" link. I suspect the 700R4
goes both lower and higher than the A340.
- --
- -- ej@blarg.net
------------------------------
Date: 10 Apr 1997 15:03:41 U
From: "Jay Kopycinski" Subject: Suspension Travel
To: "Toyota 4x4 List" Subject: Time: 2:47 PM
OFFICE MEMO Suspension Travel Date: 4/10/97
Tony Bartlett wrote:>Jay, thanks for the info. I would not have thought about the drag link>binding. I do have aftermarket drag link and steering arm. And I have>broke 3 steering arms so far also.
Sounds like you may be traveling far enough to put it in a bind and
causing it to break. I know mine flexes in the narrow portion. I can
see where the paint has flaked a bit in that area.>One thing on the Torque rod though. I have it in my mind that when>braking or axle wrap you will be putting a force on the Torque rod that>would try to bend it not push or pull it. So wouldn't a splined rod>still do what it is supposed to??
No it pushes and pulls as Jack described.>Jay, how much droop do you get before your drag link binds?
Not exactly sure and yours will vary based on the springs you
are using, axle (re)location, draglink shape and adjustment,
steering arm, etc. You'll have to check yours to see where it
binds.>Do you have steering arm with ball on top?
No.>One of my plans will probably put a single main leaf in each corner with>some spacer leaves (to take up space under main leaf) then with jack in>each corner start jacking up and down trying to find all the problems>before having the springs made. Very long process.
Yes, but a good idea. I did this on the rear when I was prototyping
the Mazda spring swap.>I also hear that custom springs cost between 180-200 each. I think>worth the price if I could get a softer ride. More travel would just be>an extra benefit.
National quoted me $900 not including u-bolts, bushings, etc. I started
to order the fronts but realized that I might be paying $450 for springs
that still were not what I wanted. I went searching for other ways......
hence the Mazda swap.>National custom springs normally have about 10 leaves. Would having>more leaves help with axle wrap even though spring rate is soft. People>I know with nationals say yes (it is also one of the question I have for>them).
Yes, the will serve to make the spring more progressive and reduce
axle wrap a bit.
_____________________________________________
Jay Kopycinski '85 Toylet (ROKTOY)
Gilbert, AZ
ryna10@email.sps.mot.com
http://www.netzone.com/~jayk
Arizona Lo-Rangers 4WD Club TLCA #3243
_____________________________________________
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 1997 09:46:20 -0700
From: Locke Christman Subject: That Tippy Tire thread...
To: "'Toy4x4@tlca.org'" >>>Any time you raise a vehicle (all else being>>>equal, especially track) you are decreasing its ultimate stability,>>>probably without affecting its initial stability. Does this make sense?>>>> Yeah, it does make sense. Now if you relate this to Jack's comment>> about his softer suspension, his rig may have less initial stability>> (can feel body roll in the corners) but better ultimate stability than a>> stiff sprung rig with equal center of gravity height and track width.>>I don't agree. If a truck has low 'initial stability', it is easier for>it to lean. Period. If you go around a corner at 'x' mph in two>identical center-of-gravity/height/width trucks, one with a low 'initial>stability' and one with high I.S., look at what happens: The stiff sprung>one doesn't lean very much, and the center of gravity remains near the>center of the truck (side to side). The softer sprung truck will lean>farther over, and hence it's center of gravity will move farther to one>side, and make it easier to tip.
Jonathan,
I see your point, I think you're right.
Locke> ------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 1997 07:00:32 -0700
From: Eric Johnson
Subject: Third Member Swap
To: "'Toy4x4@tlca.org'" On Wednesday, April 09, 1997 1:58 PM, David
Booth[SMTP:dfbooth01@worldnet.att.net] wrote:> My brother has an 89' 4Runner with the 4 cyl., auto tranny, and 3.90> gears.
Are you absolutely sure about this? Did you check the axle code? I'd be
willing to bet you a beer that he's actually got 4.30 gears in there...> He also has a totaled 87' 4Runner (previously mine) with the 4> cyl., manual tranny, and 4.10 gears.>> Does anyone know if the third members from the 4 cyl. 87' standard can> be directly swapped into the 4 cyl. 89' automatic differentials?
I think it should swap fine (but check those ratios to make sure its worth
doing!)
The ADD mechanism is actually not really a part of the differential; its
part of the
axle.
- --
- - ej@blarg.net
------------------------------
Date: 10 Apr 1997 13:41:57 U
From: "Jay Kopycinski" Subject: Third Member Swap
To: "Toyota 4x4 List" Subject: Time: 1:38 PM
OFFICE MEMO Third Member Swap Date: 4/10/97
David Booth wrote:>My brother has an 89' 4Runner with the 4 cyl., auto tranny, and 3.90>gears. He also has a totaled 87' 4Runner (previously mine) with the 4>cyl., manual tranny, and 4.10 gears.>>Does anyone know if the third members from the 4 cyl. 87' standard can>be directly swapped into the 4 cyl. 89' automatic differentials?
Should swap without a problem.
_____________________________________________
Jay Kopycinski '85 Toylet (ROKTOY)
Gilbert, AZ
ryna10@email.sps.mot.com
http://www.netzone.com/~jayk
Arizona Lo-Rangers 4WD Club TLCA #3243
_____________________________________________
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 1997 03:18:05 +0000
From: sbever@jeffnet.org
Subject: Tips on rebuilding starter ('88 4Runner)
To: Toyota 4x4 List Any tips on rebuilding a 22RE starter on '88 4Runner?
My (rebuilt by a starter shop 3 years ago) starter does not engage
about 50% of the time; instead, it just makes a rather fast/high
pitched grinding noise.
[The bendix looks fine. I'll open the starter saturday. Battery and
power to selenoid seems ok. I'll have a look at the flywheel tomorrow
when I do the clutch. I'm assuming the bendix is not
extending/recoiling properly? Thrust washers worn down?]
I'd rather build it myself than pay for a new or rebuilt one that I
can't control the quality of.
TIA
Scott
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 1997 20:16:42 -0800
From: " CONRAD" Subject: Toy4x4 Digest V1 #123
To: > Date: Tue, 08 Apr 1997 10:11:40 -0600> From: Tony Bartlett > Subject: Thanks (Iceland fender flares.> Thanks Kristjan and Conrad for the info on the fender flares. Wow, quite> expensive. Do either of you know anyone with pictures of them on a> vehicle on the net. Let me know if you do.> Sorry for the late response, I was out of town for a couple of days. I
don't know of any on the net. Buy me a color scanner and I'll make sure
you get one right away!!
jc
Jack Conrad, BIG TOY, TLCA # 3851
conrad@mosquitonet.com, North Pole, AK
84 FJ-60, coils over leaf-over, 350,38s, ARB
92 Extra-Cab, coils over leafs, 5.29s, ARB, 35s
Land Cruiser, don't leave the pavement without one!!
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 1997 20:33:19 -0500
From: The Brauns Subject: Toyota Rear Brakes
To: ToyotaStuff Anyone have any suggestions for getting the rear drums off a '91 Toyota pickup?
Mine are extremely stubborn! I've backed the star adjuster all the way off - the
drums rotate freely but wont come off the axle. The manual says there's a screw
that holds them on - there are only two shallow (approx 1/4" deep) threaded holes
and a few other holes but none with screws holding the drums to the axles.
I've tried tapping the drum through the brake pad inspection hole to no avail. I
even put short bolts in the two threaded holes & hooked up a gear puller but just
pulled one of the bolts out! I'm almost to the point of cutting the part of the
brake backing plate that covers the back edge of the drums so that I can pound on
it with a hammer.
Any ideas? I need to get this done so I can get my rear diff to the shop - major
metal particles in the rear end!:~(
Thanks
Stan
- --
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
- _____ __ . -
- | |__\___ There's nothing like 4-wheelin in the ___/__||\____ -
- |--|___--_| Great Outdoors! |_--___|__--__| -
- \\// \\// \\// \\ // -
- (_) (_) brauns@flash.net (_) (_) -
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 1997 18:55:23 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jonathan Albrecht Subject: Toyota Rear Brakes
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
On Thu, 10 Apr 1997, The Brauns wrote:> Anyone have any suggestions for getting the rear drums off a '91 Toyota pickup?> Mine are extremely stubborn! I've backed the star adjuster all the way off - the> drums rotate freely but wont come off the axle. The manual says there's a screw> that holds them on - there are only two shallow (approx 1/4" deep) threaded holes> and a few other holes but none with screws holding the drums to the axles.
had the same problem a year or two, so I took it to shuabe ellison and
asked them what they do. The guy mentioned the two bolt holes (you thread
to bolts in, and it pushes off the drum), but I tried it, and they just
stripped out. So he showed me the other way they do it.
Take a big sledge, and pivot it from your waste, kinda like putting with a
golf club. Just swing the sledge at the drum. You'll notice a lot of
brake dust, and it may take awhile, but it helps to loosen it up. You
might also want to put some penetrant on the drum where the studs poke
through. Anyhow, just keep wailing on it (slow and careful though), and
it'll loosen. I usually need to use a crow bar or screwdriver to pry it
off (I push against the backing plate). this bends the plate, but you can
pound it out later without too much trouble.
Oh, and don't hit the studs!
Good luck,
Jonathan Albrecht
albr9619@uidaho.edu
http://www.uidaho.edu/~albr9619/
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 1997 18:20:36 -0700
From: Scott Wilson Subject: Toyota Rear Brakes
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org, brauns@flash.net
Jonathan Albrecht wrote:> Take a big sledge, and pivot it from your waste, kinda like putting with a> golf club. Just swing the sledge at the drum. You'll notice a lot of> brake dust, and it may take awhile, but it helps to loosen it up. You> might also want to put some penetrant on the drum where the studs poke> through. Anyhow, just keep wailing on it (slow and careful though), and> it'll loosen. I usually need to use a crow bar or screwdriver to pry it> off (I push against the backing plate). this bends the plate, but you can> pound it out later without too much trouble.
I second that. I used a 3 lb. hammer and kept whacking the drum all
around the sides (reasonable softly) until it started moving. Wasn't
easy. WD40 on the studs may help. I managed not to bend the plate to
bad at all.
Scott
- --
Scott A. Wilson __o __o __o __o
Santa Clara, CA _'\<,_ _'\<,_ _'\<,_ _'\<,_
swilson@pacbell.net (_)' (_) (_)' (_) (_)' (_) (_)' (_)
http://users.uniserve.com/~rcomber/scottw/scottw.htm
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 1997 01:47:15 +0000
From: Brendan Subject: Toyota Rear Brakes
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org> Anyone have any suggestions for getting the rear drums off a '91 Toyota pickup?> Mine are extremely stubborn! I've backed the star adjuster all the way off - the> drums rotate freely but wont come off the axle. The manual says there's a screw> that holds them on - there are only two shallow (approx 1/4" deep) threaded holes> and a few other holes but none with screws holding the drums to the axles.> Mine were extremely stubborn as well. What I did was take two metric
bolts of the appropriate size (I think they were 7mm in dia., can't
remember the pitch, but they're the coarse thread), and started to
attempt to back out the drum. However, the drum wasn't going anywhere.
Instead the axle flange/plate was bending back somewhat. So I squirted
some liquid wrench around the stud holes and let it sit for awhile. I
came back and cranked a turn or two on the bolts, but nothing happened.
I then sat on my butt and started kicking flat-footed around the outer
edge of the drum (kick pretty hard). This would push one side of the
drum in, and then I would kick the opposite high side. I repeated this
a few times until the bolts could effectively be used to back the drum
out. This worked great for me for both sides, and nothing was bent. In
my case, it was the tight tolerance between the inner dia. of the drum
and the protruding part of the axle that was causing the difficulty.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 1997 10:48:06 -0700 (PDT)
From: Michael L Martin Subject: Truck pet names
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
I've never really given mine a 'name'. However, I do consider
it my baby :) {Even though I've given more than a passing thought to
dropping it off a cliff lately}.....
All of my friends know it's my baby, too. It abuses me and I
still love it. Of all the things to miss, I missed driving around in
my truck while I was in Thailand last year. Gonna be hard selling it
this summer when I go to Japan in August :(
M.
BTW- the model in someone's ashtray is Paulina PORIZKOVA. Yes, I must
admit- very nice! (But, if my girlfriend sees this, I'm DED! :)
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 97 11:13:57 PDT
From: barney@flowpoint.com (Barney McNamara)
Subject: Truck Pet Names
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org> I think this question should be added to the BIO form, Scott should sort his> list by truck names - all our signature bars should include the truck's names.>>I haven't named my 4Runner, but my Hi-Lift is Bertha. I even painted>>"Big Bertha" in script letters on the side of her, after I striped her>>down(!) and repainted her last month. She looks really sleek in her new>>flat black paint!>>(If I start getting requests for peoples truck names added to the list>>I'm hand the list over to you Barney!) ;)
Gee, can't you recognize a joke? ;-) I think your doing a fine job with
that member list, I sure don't want to complain about Moose-turd pie...
______________________________________________________________
Barney McNamara JENNY - 83 Toyota Short Bed
( barney@flowpoint.com ) stock 22R motor ; 3" body lift
Santa Cruz, Ca. 8" alloy rims; 31" BFG A/Ts
______________________________________________________________
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 1997 12:20:07 -0800
From: Scott Wilson Subject: Truck Pet Names
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Barney McNamara wrote:>>>(If I start getting requests for peoples truck names added to the list>>>I'm hand the list over to you Barney!) ;)>> Gee, can't you recognize a joke? ;-) I think your doing a fine job with> that member list, I sure don't want to complain about Moose-turd pie...
So Barney....Hollister Saturday? Come on! I'll promise to bring
Bertha! :)
Scott
- --
*****************************************************
Scott Wilson TLCA #5261
88 4Runner SR5 V6
Santa Clara, CA
http://users.uniserve.com/~rcomber/scottw/scottw.htm
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 1997 21:30:20 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jonathan Albrecht Subject: used truck
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Okay, I checked on a 4runner (going to see it this weekend) and I'd like
any and all opinions;
1984 4Runner
7" suspension lift
3" body
new 38.5 Gumbo mudders
recently built 350
th350
np205
4.38 gearing,
Body okay, minor scratches, nothing bad
He wants 6500 obo, what do you guy's think? The main thing that's
worrying me is mileage. He said he hasn't tried figuring it out, but
estimated it at 14hwy/10city. Does this sound normal for something like
this? I'm thinking this may be just a little worse than I can afford, you
know...
What are you guys with large tires (35"+) and 4cyl motors getting? Do you
have enough power to keep up on the highway, and in deep mud?
TIA
Jonathan Albrecht
albr9619@uidaho.edu
http://www.uidaho.edu/~albr9619/
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 1997 22:52:03 -0700
From: Scott Wilson Subject: used truck
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Jonathan Albrecht wrote:> recently built 350
The main thing that's> worrying me is mileage. He said he hasn't tried figuring it out, but> estimated it at 14hwy/10city. Does this sound normal for something like> this?
Sounds good to me. I drove an 84 Chevy w/a 350 all through high
school. I only got 8mpg city, but the engine had a 4 barrel carb, and I
had a VERY heavy foot. ;) 14/10 is definitly in the ball park for a
350.
Scott
- --
Scott A. Wilson __o __o __o __o
Santa Clara, CA _'\<,_ _'\<,_ _'\<,_ _'\<,_
swilson@pacbell.net (_)' (_) (_)' (_) (_)' (_) (_)' (_)
http://users.uniserve.com/~rcomber/scottw/scottw.htm
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 1997 16:42:13 +0100
From: Earle Rother Subject: V6 head gaskets
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Is there a FAQ on the head gaskets? and what years are the problems?
I got a special warranty from Toyota and I am wondering if they will let me
bring it in and fix it before it becomes a problem.
Do diffrent dealers treat this issure difrentley or am I stuck?
Or are they just going bet on that if it has not gone now it won't go.... I
on the other hand would 'feel' better if it was fixed - I don't want to be
on the trail out in BFE and have it let go. I do love that V6 power and my
truck has been VERY good with very few problems...but...I don't like
ticking bombs...
TIA
Earle Rother
ewr@appsig.com
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 1997 22:23:13 -0500
From: Steven Benson Subject: Valve Tapping
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Something John forgot to mention. When adjusting your valves it is best
to do so when the engine is hot. This will make things a bit crispy for
your hands but will save you the time of going back and re-adjusting
them tighter to get rid of the tappet noise.
Just some advice given to me by another that has worked well with the
infamous Toyota Tappet noise.
John Skaggs wrote:
I don't know what the dealer charges for this procedure but whatever it
is it's way to much. This is a 1 banana job at most and that's a high
estimate. All
you need is a gasket kit $25.00 (valve cover gasket, rubber half moons,
rubber bolt grommets) all was included in the kit, 12mm combination
wrench, 14mm socket
or wrench, 19mm socket, carb or brake cleaner, rags, feeler gauges, flat
blade screwdriver and that's it. Oh yeah and the procedure. The only
aftermarket book I found that has the specs AND procedures was the
John Muir Idiot book for Toyota's. If you can visualize this, you can
follow Jim Brink's directions. I just did this, last weekend and it
is very EASY. If I remember correctly
the valve clearance specs were .008" intake, .012" exhaust. Also an
extra
hand is helpful to hold the wires out of the way when reinstalling the
cover
but it is not absolutely critical. Go No Go feeler gauges are nice to
have
also.
______________________________________________
Steven Benson
'85 Toy X-Cab | MNTOYX4 | MN4WDA | TLCA #4835
http://www.off-road.com/~MNTOYX4
mailto:toyx4@winternet.com
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 1997 21:24:09 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jonathan Albrecht Subject: Valve Tapping
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
On Thu, 10 Apr 1997, Steven Benson wrote:> Something John forgot to mention. When adjusting your valves it is best> to do so when the engine is hot. This will make things a bit crispy for> your hands but will save you the time of going back and re-adjusting> them tighter to get rid of the tappet noise.
How do you keep the engine hot? Do you just start it up again once you
have it all apart, maybe with the valve cover just laying on top of the
head (not bolted down)?
Jonathan Albrecht
albr9619@uidaho.edu
http://www.uidaho.edu/~albr9619/
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 1997 00:48:23 -0400 (EDT)
From: DRM033@aol.com
Subject: Valve Tapping
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
OK. I had a guy do the valve adjusting for me. He set it to specs and I
still have the noise. I know, it will always have some noise, but this is
bad. I will try to give a good description so someone in the know can help
me!
The valve noise is not constant. sometimes it is there, sometimes it is not.
When I went to get it fron the shop and started it up, it did not make it.
it started to only after sustained throttle preasure (sorry, no tach) then
release. then it began to build gradually, getting worse each time this is
repeated. Also, it is quited under mild load, like when you first release
the clutch to take off. It will rattle loudly if you punch it while
traveling down the road. The guy says they are at spec. The truck runs
great otherwise. it does not smoke, except a puff at innitial start-up.
Again, sometimes at sops it will rattle, sometimes it will get quiet.
Can somebody help me? I really would like to get this taken care of.
David
DRM033@aol.com
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 1997 23:37:45 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jonathan Albrecht Subject: Valve Tapping
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org> repeated. Also, it is quited under mild load, like when you first release> the clutch to take off. It will rattle loudly if you punch it while> traveling down the road. The guy says they are at spec. The truck runs> great otherwise. it does not smoke, except a puff at innitial start-up.> Again, sometimes at sops it will rattle, sometimes it will get quiet.>> Can somebody help me? I really would like to get this taken care of.
This is a long shot. Someone on the Offroad Mailing list had a similar
problem with his Nissan, and get this, the problem was his fan belts. I
didn't really believe it at first, but then a second Nissan owner said he
had the same thing, and they both swore that it sounded exactly like
vavles out of adjustment.
anyway, hope this helps,
Jonathan Albrecht
albr9619@uidaho.edu
http://www.uidaho.edu/~albr9619/
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 1997 01:23:18 +0000
From: Brendan Subject: Valve Tapping
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org>> OK. I had a guy do the valve adjusting for me. He set it to specs and I> still have the noise. I know, it will always have some noise, but this is> bad. I will try to give a good description so someone in the know can help> me!>> The valve noise is not constant. sometimes it is there, sometimes it is not.> When I went to get it fron the shop and started it up, it did not make it.> it started to only after sustained throttle preasure (sorry, no tach) then> release. then it began to build gradually, getting worse each time this is> repeated. Also, it is quited under mild load, like when you first release> the clutch to take off. It will rattle loudly if you punch it while> traveling down the road. The guy says they are at spec. The truck runs> great otherwise. it does not smoke, except a puff at innitial start-up.> Again, sometimes at sops it will rattle, sometimes it will get quiet.>> Can somebody help me? I really would like to get this taken care of.>> David> DRM033@aol.com> I know what you're experiencing. The previous owner of my truck never
had the valves adjusted. So at 87,000 miles, I adjusted them. The
valves were too tight. I couldn't get the appropriate feeler gauge in
the gap. Before, the valves didn't make any noise that I could
remember. But I sure noticed the noise after the adjustment. It really
annoyed me, I thought I did something wrong. I checked those things
five times after that. Sometimes the tappet noise is loud, and then
sometimes it is not so loud. It's really bugging me as well. There's
no consistency. I did everything exactly by the Toyota book. The weird
thing is that I have two friends that have 22RE engines, and theirs'
don't make any noise. So you're not alone. I would appreciate some
input as well (I've meaning to ask you guys about this).
Thanks.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 1997 13:40:39 -0500
From: Galen Sinkey Subject: which 4x4 mag?
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
I'm wondering which 4x4 magazines are worth subscribing to.
Last year I subscribed to 4X4 Mechanix, and paid for my subscription along
with an order and separate check for a couple of back issues. I got the
back issues, but never did get the subscription. They cashed my
subscription check but refused to acknowledge that I'd payed. Now they've
closed down and started some other 4X4 rag, but I'd stay away from them!
I usually find 4Wheeler to have some decent articles, but is 4WD&SU or
Petersen's better?
Galen
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 1997 14:00:45 -0500
From: "Michael Rowe" Subject: which 4x4 mag?
To: >> I'm wondering which 4x4 magazines are worth subscribing to.
I'm about 3 issues into a subscription to 4wheel and Offroad. it seems
pretty good, they seem to have a nice balance on articles between technical
rock crawling type stuff and plain old mud dogging. They also have well
documented tech. articles that are interesting to read while "passing time"
in the bathroom :)
Michael Rowe
'88 4Runner
m.rowe@mail.utexas.edu
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 1997 16:28:13 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jonathan Albrecht Subject: which 4x4 mag?
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org> I'm wondering which 4x4 magazines are worth subscribing to.>> I usually find 4Wheeler to have some decent articles, but is 4WD&SU or> Petersen's better?
I think 4wd&suv is one of the best, but it's smaller than the other two
(by a bunch). 4wheeler and Petersen's seems pretty similar to me (size,
articles, ect). I get all three :)
If I had to decide, I'd probably go with 4wheeler, as they've got the Top
Truck challenge.
Jonathan Albrecht
albr9619@uidaho.edu
http://www.uidaho.edu/~albr9619/
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 1997 22:47:48 -0400
From: "R. W. 'Butch' Stiles" Subject: who needs a filter charger anyway ?
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
The other day I had a brainstorm. I've been wanting that "downtown"
airbox kit from Downey but, cash flow is nil so I had to find other
means. I was rummaging in one of my junk boxes and found the K & N
filter from my old (wrecked) Samurai and the light bulb went ON!
A couple of pieces of G-10 fibreglass, some careful jig saw work, some
stainless all-thread and hardware and VIOLA!!! I got a nice little
filter charger kit for the cost of a couple hours labor. Sounds GNARLY
too! The only downside is the rocket that's not going to have any fins
because they're helping to "fly" my truck. Life is full of little
trade-offs!
One question though, that small (3/4") hose/tube that runs from the
airbox to that small cannister just below/left of the throttle body,
where is that going and what exactly is it supposed to do for the motor?
I stuck a breather on it with a short section of hose because I noticed
that it was sucking air and figured it should be covered to keep junk
out of it. Any input appreciated.
Butch Stiles
rokitman@erols.com
Just as it says, "Rocket Man"
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 1997 18:24:08 -0800
From: tech_47 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org> Yesterday as I was approaching a stop light I pushed in my clutch>and I heard a ping. The clutch went to the floor (with no pressure) but the>truck was still in gear. I pulled off the road and my master cylinder was>empty. I rolled under the truck and fluid was all around the slave cylinder.>I could move the clutch fork back and forth by hand. Is this normal? Could>my pressure plate have broken or is this simply a slave cylinder problem. By>the way, it's an '83 truck with a '90 tranny.
Mike
I had this happen on my '82 at about 120,000miles, I replaced the master
cylinder fixed it all, the cylinder had a hairline crack, but it still made
the clutch go out in a snap.
- --Christian Nousaine-
nous@goldrush.com
Apple/NeXT/Sun/SGI/Digital
Those who I will own
------------------------------
The views expressed in Toy4x4 are those of the individual authors only.
Be sure to check out the OFFROAD MAILING LIST.
Subscription requests can be sent to: offroad-request@off-road.com
End of Toy4x4 Digest
******************************
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