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Toyota 4x4 Digest

Publish date: Apr 2, 1997
By: ORC STAFF
Source: Off-Road.com

Toy4x4 Digest Wed, 2 Apr 97 00:30:02 (HST) Volume 1 : Issue 117
Today's Topics:
'88 4Runner Clutch (5 msgs)
4runner tires (2 msgs)
83 overheating
axle prices
Bio (7 msgs)
Camper Shells (2 msgs)
damn! I always put ".com" instead of ".org"! (3 msgs)
Detroit Lockers (2 msgs)
Downey/Rancho 10" travel lift
Downy leaf springs and Ranc
Driveshaft Lube (3 msgs)
Engine swap
Front driveshaft angles
Front Driveshaft Mods/Confusion
Haynes manuals
Head gasket (2 msgs)
inspection
Lift springs
magnet ? (5 msgs)
Manual Tranny
Moab fix it guy
Need a Good 4Runner Service Manual (6 msgs)
New "Downey " stuff / Race car jargon (2 msgs)
Oil Pressure
Oil Pressure>> tires
overheatin'
overheating 22re (2 msgs)
Parts on a 22RET
Personal Bio Info (2 msgs)
Poor Brakes (3 msgs)
rear blocks
Recommendations on Nerf Bars (4 msgs)
Speedo woes.......noisy! (2 msgs)
Stereo Speakers (3 msgs)
Tacoma Bashing
Toy4x4 Digest V1 #116
toyota 4-runner (2 msgs)
Toyota Double Cabs coming! (4 msgs)
tranny (5th gear noise)
truck pruchase
Typo
Typos &UNSUBSCRIBE!!
What Torque Wrench to Buy? (3 msgs)
Who's on the List
Yota V6s
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 09:43:17 -0800
From: Earle Rother Subject: '88 4Runner Clutch
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org> Any tips on replacing a clutch for a '88 4Runner and recommendations> for a clutch disc, pressure plate, and t/o bearing?
I would go with the stock clutch - they last a long time and may not cost
you as much as the aftermarket ones. I think the heavy duty aftermarket
stuff may be a waste of money and may even cost you more in the long run.
- - is your 4Runner a V6? the V6 tranny and xfer case is much heaver than the
4cyl one. I have done both - the 4cyl is a piece of cake compaired to the
V6 - it was a heavy s.o.b. get a tranny jack it is well worth the money...
also you will need a univeral joint adapter to get the correct angles on
all of the bolts. You dont need to break the clutch line just un bolt it
from the case and move it aside - it has a rubber hose. If you have any
questions I have the Toyota shop manuals.
Earle
Earle Rother
ewr@appsig.com
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 13:49:42 -0600
From: Jack Alford Subject: '88 4Runner Clutch
To: toy4x4@tlca.org
Earle Rother wrote:>also you will need a univeral joint adapter to get the correct angles on>all of the bolts. You dont need to break the clutch line just un bolt it>from the case and move it aside - it has a rubber hose. If you have any>questions I have the Toyota shop manuals.
I find it much easier to get about ~30" of extensions, Yes ~30". that puts
the extensions just beyond the tail of the transfer case where you
can rest the extensions on the tfercase once you have dropped it a bit
so that you can reach all of the bolt heads easily. then just crank
away with a 1/2" breaker bar and it's quick and easy. I've unfortunately
had mine in/out several times recently so I've become quite adept at it.
I think I bout a 24" piece of 3/8" extension for $14.99, best money
I ever spent for getting that tranny out. Leave the tcase bolted to
the tranny too. No need to seperate them if you're gonna get a tranny
jack which I HIGHLY recommend.
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Jack Alford Off-Road.com - The best dirt on the net!
jalford@off-road.com http://www.off-road.com/
Decatur, AL
'86 Xcab Toyota Pickup - 33x12.50 BFG MT
Solid Front Axle - Marlin Crawler - ARB's - 4.88's
SFWDA - TLCA #3415 - Rocket City Rock Crawlers
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 13:38:53 -0800
From: Earle Rother Subject: '88 4Runner Clutch
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Yea, I use the universal joint adapter and yes about 30" of extensions too
(I left that out). I just stack various lengths till I get it right - the
only problem with the universal joint is that I've snapped them. I am using
the craftsman - so off to sears...
I agree keep the tcase and the tranny in one piece.
Earle>Earle Rother wrote:>>>also you will need a univeral joint adapter to get the correct angles on>>all of the bolts. You dont need to break the clutch line just un bolt it>>from the case and move it aside - it has a rubber hose. If you have any>>questions I have the Toyota shop manuals.>>I find it much easier to get about ~30" of extensions, Yes ~30". that puts>the extensions just beyond the tail of the transfer case where you>can rest the extensions on the tfercase once you have dropped it a bit>so that you can reach all of the bolt heads easily. then just crank>away with a 1/2" breaker bar and it's quick and easy. I've unfortunately>had mine in/out several times recently so I've become quite adept at it.>I think I bout a 24" piece of 3/8" extension for $14.99, best money>I ever spent for getting that tranny out. Leave the tcase bolted to>the tranny too. No need to seperate them if you're gonna get a tranny>jack which I HIGHLY recommend.>>> -----------------------------------------------------------------> Jack Alford Off-Road.com - The best dirt on the net!> jalford@off-road.com http://www.off-road.com/> Decatur, AL>> '86 Xcab Toyota Pickup - 33x12.50 BFG MT> Solid Front Axle - Marlin Crawler - ARB's - 4.88's> SFWDA - TLCA #3415 - Rocket City Rock Crawlers
Earle Rother
ewr@appsig.com
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 18:18:58 -0500
From: Ed.Wong@astramerck.com
Subject: '88 4Runner Clutch
To: " - (052)Toy4x4 (a) tlca.org" Jonathan Albrecht wrote:> On other note. There are two bolts at the top of the bellhousing that are> real tough to get at. The easiest way is to pull the shifters, and use a> long extension (probably 18") and socket through the shifter opening.
While I agree with his statement(s) I do have one thought to offer... It cant
be done using
a 3/8 extension; it winds up just like a torsion bar!!!
I went and got the longest 1/2" drive extension that Craftsman makes and used a
6 point
1/2" drive socket (17mm if I recall correctly). Use the longest breaker bar too.
(I think the extension was 30" and the breaker was the longer 26" bar)
Its on there TIGHT...
Last job I lent tools out on (I got there just in time to curse as "I" got to
pull the tranny
(yeah we got all the bolts - really - we chehecked - oh you didnt mention
*that* one (it goes in the other way point towards the back - its near
where the exhaust manifold hold down bracket is - aka drivers side))
Oh yeah - the bag advice is GREAT too!
I use ziplock sandwich bags and an indelible clothes marker. I write what they
are on the
bag - all kinds of other info too (like the shorter ones go one place an the
longer ones go
in differnt place). Keeps 'em from rolling under stuff too!
Ive used a LUK stock replacement clutch - but it only lasted 100K - and it
started slipping
occasionaly in 1st when taking off at stop lights (uh - the leaking rear main
and tranny
front seal didnt have anything to do with that eh?)
Speaking of leaks - if ya gots the dough repalace:
rear main seal
tranny snout seal
tranny front cover seal (destroyed to get at the snout seal)
(RTV should work for this in a pinch)
I have a HD flywheel and Centerfor Dual friction in there now - I like it...
EWong
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 18:16:27 -0800
From: James Brink Subject: '88 4Runner Clutch
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Jack Alford wrote:>> Earle Rother wrote:>>>also you will need a univeral joint adapter to get the correct angles on>>all of the bolts. You dont need to break the clutch line just un bolt it>>from the case and move it aside - it has a rubber hose. If you have any>>questions I have the Toyota shop manuals.>> I find it much easier to get about ~30" of extensions, Yes ~30". that puts> the extensions just beyond the tail of the transfer case where you> can rest the extensions on the tfercase once you have dropped it a bit> so that you can reach all of the bolt heads easily. then just crank> away with a 1/2" breaker bar and it's quick and easy. I've unfortunately> had mine in/out several times recently so I've become quite adept at it.> I think I bout a 24" piece of 3/8" extension for $14.99, best money> I ever spent for getting that tranny out. Leave the tcase bolted to> the tranny too. No need to seperate them if you're gonna get a tranny> jack which I HIGHLY recommend.>> -----------------------------------------------------------------> Jack Alford Off-Road.com - The best dirt on the net!> jalford@off-road.com http://www.off-road.com/> Decatur, AL>> '86 Xcab Toyota Pickup - 33x12.50 BFG MT> Solid Front Axle - Marlin Crawler - ARB's - 4.88's> SFWDA - TLCA #3415 - Rocket City Rock Crawlers
I'll go with Jack's idea on the LONG extension(s). I have a neat 36"
long impact extension from MAC Tools the is 1/2" on the drive end and
3/8" on the socket end. This coupled with a good 17MM universal impact
socket does a good job on the upper bellhousing bolts.
- --
Jim Brink
Toyota/ASE Certified Tech.
brinkjm@earthlink.net
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 16:29:49 -0500
From: Bob Bascom Subject: 4runner tires
To: toy4x4@tlca.org
Hello
I need some advice. I have an '87 4runner with a 4" lift. right now I
have 31" tires but they look real funny like pizza cutters. And they
don't roll over things very well. I can fit 33's with out any problems.
But I don't know if I shoul;d spend a little more cash and get 35's.
What size rims do I need with a 12.5" wide tire? Backspacing? how much
more kift would I need for 35's, Ive heard onl;y an inch but I don't
know.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 14:36:13 -0800
From: Eric Johnson Subject: 4runner tires
To: "'Toy4x4@tlca.org'" Bob Bascom wrote:> I need some advice. I have an '87 4runner with a 4" lift. right now I> have 31" tires but they look real funny like pizza cutters. And they> don't roll over things very well.
what kind of things aren't they rolling over?>I can fit 33's with out any problems.> But I don't know if I shoul;d spend a little more cash and get 35's.
You'll need a lot more engine or lower diff gears for 35s vs. 33s behind your 4cyl.
- --
- -- ej@blarg.net
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 09:02:33 -0800
From: Eric Johnson Subject: 83 overheating
To: "'Toy4x4@tlca.org'" Barney McNamara wrote:> On Mon, 31 Mar 1997 PSHENG@SCUACC.SCU.EDU wrote:>> decide it wants to run hotter now? I don't think the gauge is faulty,>> 'cuz when it was near the red, I turned on the heater and I was>> afraid it was going to melt my dash! Any ideas? thermostat maybe?>> My '83 has heated up since I got it. Every time I drive steady for a
couple> hours on the freeway, and everyday when I go over Hiway 17, a 15 minute
climb> of 2000 feet over about 5 miles in traffic, the things heats up and the
needle> climbs into the red. It seems to cool quickly, if I stop for gas on the> freeway, it drops again a stays down for another few hours.>> So far I have changed: radiator, water pump, fan belt, engine, heater
core,> water hoses, temperature sender, dash gauge, fan clutch and thermostat
twice.> The first thermostat was a 190 degree job that really gave me a lot of
heat but> it just ran too close to the top all the time, the second is a 160 degree
which> gives a little more room for the eventual climb.
Wow, you've replaced just about everything, yet something is not right.
Dumb question: have you replaced your radiator cap? If its releasing too
early, that could be a problem. Have you pressure tested the system? Do you
still have a fan shroud? That could be part of your problem.
I had a '79 which constantly overheated, and I replaced everything. My
radiator was clogged (you can tell because some parts of it would get hot,
others would be cool to the touch), my cap was trashed, and my fan clutch
was toast. Once I replaced everything (the last was a fan clutch which I
got at a junkyard for $20), it kept real cool. I sure learned a lot about
cooling systems driving that truck.
My '87 has been fantastic. Even pulling my sailboat up hills in 100+ degree
temp (with an auto tranny!!) , its never tried to overheat. I have replaced
the thermostat a couple times over the last few years, when it has started
to get sticky.
- --
- -- ej@blarg.net
------------------------------
Date: 1 Apr 1997 12:20:16 U
From: "Jay Kopycinski" Subject: axle prices
To: "Toyota 4x4 List" Subject: Time: 9:23 AM
OFFICE MEMO axle prices Date: 4/1/97
Ed.Wong@astramerck.com wrote:>Just curious - a yard here in the Philly area wants> $300 for a center section (rear)> $450 complete axle - drum to drum>>Just curious if these prices were average or not.
Sounds mighty high to me, but it depends on the area of the country
and availability and demand.
_____________________________________________
Jay Kopycinski '85 Toylet (ROKTOY)
Gilbert, AZ
ryna10@email.sps.mot.com
http://www.netzone.com/~jayk
Arizona Lo-Rangers 4WD Club TLCA #3243
_____________________________________________
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 07:28:56 -0600
From: "Scully, Henry" Subject: Bio
To: "'Toy4x4'" >---------->From: Toy4x4-Request[SMTP:toy4x4-request@tlca.org]>Sent: Saturday, March 29, 1997 10:05 PM>To: Scully, Henry>Subject: Bio>>Personal Bio Info>>POST TO THE LIST ONLY>> toy4x4@tlca.org>+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++>>Name: Pat Scully>>City & State: Oklahoma City, OK>>Country: USA>>E-mail address: scullyh@tbird.ngb.army.mil>>Toyota (s) year & model: 94 4-Runner SR-5>>Are you a TLCA Member (Y/N/Number?): No>>Age: 48>>Occupation: Public Affairs Officer for the Oklahoma National Guard>>Marital Status: Single>>Hobbies: Outdoors stuff - camping, boating, scuba diving. Also like playing>the guitar.>>How did you find out about the Toyota 4x4 Mailing List: Just wandering>through the internet.>>General info about your vehicle, self, etc.: Purchased the vehicle two months>ago. I really enjoy it. About the only thing I have done to it so far is>upgrade the stereo system. I want to do some other things but will take it>one project at a time.>> ------------------------------
Date: 01 Apr 97 11:12:20 -0400
From: Rob Ellis Subject: Bio
To: Toy4x4 List RE>Bio 4/1/97
- --------------------------------------
Date: 3/29/97 11:01 PM
To: Rob Ellis
From: Toy4x4
Personal Bio Info
POST TO THE LIST ONLY>> toy4x4@tlca.org
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Name: Robert Ellis
City & State: Creedmoor, NC
Country: USA
E-mail address: rob_ellis@kobelcortp.com
Toyota (s) year & model: 91 4x4 DLX
Are you a TLCA Member (Y/N/Number?): No
Age: 26
Occupation: Lab technician
Marital Status: will be married in 3 weeks
Hobbies: Drag racing, Working on cars
How did you find out about the Toyota 4x4 Mailing List: net search
General info about your vehicle, self, etc.: Bought it 3 days ago. This is my second Toyota. First was an 86, auto, air, lowered, Boyds wheels, custom paint, header,
cam, cat back system I made. The second was a deal too good to pass up, 91 4x4, PS,
PB, air ,vent windows, 31x10.50's, 5 speed, just turned 100k for $4800. Has 2 dents
both of which are on the tailgate. Overall a VERY NICE truck. I will perform some
service on it this week.
- --------
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Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 18:03:45 -1000
Message-Id: <199703300403.SAA18818@unix.off-road.com> To: rob_ellis@kobelcortp.com
From: Toy4x4-Request Reply-To: Toy4x4 Subject: Bio
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 04 Mar 1997 19:08:22
From: Charles Subject: Bio
To: Toy4x4 At 04:49 PM 3/31/97 -1000, you wrote:>Personal Bio Info>>POST TO THE LIST ONLY>> toy4x4@tlca.org>+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++>>Name:Charles Brooks>>City & State: California, MD. And yes, I wish I lived
in California the state>Country: U.S.A.>E-mail address: cbrooks1@mail.acilink.net>>Toyota (s) year & model: 1983 Std. bed pickup>>Are you a TLCA Member (Y/N/Number?): N>>Age: 24>>Occupation: Electronic Technician>>Marital Status: Sure am>>Hobbies: 4x4's, Dog training>>How did you find out about the Toyota 4x4 Mailing List: Off-Road.com>>General info about your vehicle, self, etc.: I purchased my Toy about
2 years ago. I replaced the stock style spring clamps with bolt style
spring clamps, installed 2" longer shackles and removed the antisway bar.
Beleive it or not this gives me 10"(+-) of front axle travel. I plan on
installing a 5" Skyjacker suspension, 5.29 gears, 35" Swampers, and a
locker in the rear sometime in the future. My Toy has 190K miles, and is
still running strong.>> ------------------------------
Date: Tue, 04 Mar 1997 19:12:02
From: Charles Subject: Bio
To: Toy4x4 At 04:49 PM 3/31/97 -1000, you wrote:>Personal Bio Info>>POST TO THE LIST ONLY>> toy4x4@tlca.org>+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++>>Name:Charles Brooks>>City & State: California, MD. And yes, I wish I lived
in California the state>Country: U.S.A.>E-mail address: cbrooks1@mail.acilink.net>>Toyota (s) year & model: 1983 Std. bed pickup>>Are you a TLCA Member (Y/N/Number?): N>>Age: 24>>Occupation: Electronic Technician>>Marital Status: Sure am>>Hobbies: 4x4's, Dog training>>How did you find out about the Toyota 4x4 Mailing List: Off-Road.com>>General info about your vehicle, self, etc.: I purchased my Toy about
2 years ago. I replaced the stock style spring clamps with bolt style
spring clamps, installed 2" longer shackles and removed the antisway bar.
Beleive it or not this gives me 10"(+-) of front axle travel. I plan on
installing a 5" Skyjacker suspension, 5.29 gears, 35" Swampers, and a
locker in the rear sometime in the future. My Toy has 190K miles, and is
still running strong.>> ------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 18:21:34 -0500
From: Ed.Wong@astramerck.com
Subject: Bio
To: " - (052)toy4x4 (a) tlca.org" I thought I had posted one - but it isnt there in Scott's list :(
Personal Bio Info
Name: Ed Wong
City & State: Chester Springs, PA
Country: USA
E-mail address: ed.wong@astramerck.com
Toyota (s) year & model: 1989 4Runner (DLX - 22RE - 5 speed)
Are you a TLCA Member (Y/N/Number?): Not yet - I gotta do that...
Age: 32
Occupation: Computer / Project Manager
Marital Status: Single
Hobbies: rock climbing, ice climbing, telemark skiing, mtn biking, backpacking,
occasional running races (10K) or triathalons,
oh yeah - 'wheeling and working on the Yota!
How did you find out about the Toyota 4x4 Mailing List: Website: Off-road.com
General info about your vehicle, self, etc.:
This is my first "purchased" vehicle - and at the rate spare parts are piling
up in the
garage - the only one I'm gonna need fer a long time.
Ive done most of the mods by myself - except for help with the welding - I
havent
gotten a welder - yet.
I got it new and its got 232K on it now. Engine is still stock, loads on bolt
on mods
and *miles* of wiring added to support gagues, radio(s) and stereo equipment.
For driving comfort - a Recaro and Shcroth 4 point harness.
It has vinyl floors - cant find another ute like it!
Ive got a custom futon in the rear so I camp it - almost every weekend.
Its kinda an odd contrast to my "suits" daily job....
With the Yakima roff rack - I just load up the toys for weekend adventures!
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 21:07:52 -0600
From: Mark Subject: Bio
To: Toy4x4 Toy4x4-Request wrote:>> Personal Bio Info>> POST TO THE LIST ONLY>> toy4x4@tlca.org> +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++>> Name: Mark Kitlinski>> City & State: Fridley, MN>> Country: USA>> E-mail address: Kitlinski@worldnet.att.net>> Toyota (s) year & model: 85 SR5 Xtra Cab Pickup>> Are you a TLCA Member (Y/N/Number?): N>> Age: 16>> Occupation: Janitor>> Marital Status: Single>> Hobbies: R.C. model racing, biking, camping>> How did you find out about the Toyota 4x4 Mailing List: Some Usenet search>> General info about your vehicle, self, etc.: Recently purchased 85 SR5 Xtra Cab, basically stock ;) except for 31x10.5r15 tires and topper, this is my first vehicle PERIOD, let alone 4x, so you guys should expect a few nubee questions.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 2 Apr 1997 04:53:40 -0500
From: "T. Ryan" Subject: Bio
To: "Toy4x4" Thomas Ryan
Bristol, CT
USA
check12@ntplx.net
'84 4Runner
29 yrs. old
Audio Engineer ESPN
single
Hobbies include any and all yotas, guitars, autocross
found out about the list by surfing yota sites
My truck is an 84 4runner with 239k miles (not original engine)----
White with tan int and soft top from Kayline 5 spoke chrome wheels from
Mangels resurrected from the dead by me and driven as a primary vehicle.
- ------> From: Toy4x4-Request > To: check12@ntplx.net> Subject: Bio> Date: Saturday, March 29, 1997 11:04 PM>> Personal Bio Info>> POST TO THE LIST ONLY>> toy4x4@tlca.org> +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++>> Name:>> City & State:>> Country:>> E-mail address:>> Toyota (s) year & model:>> Are you a TLCA Member (Y/N/Number?):>> Age:>> Occupation:>> Marital Status:>> Hobbies:>> How did you find out about the Toyota 4x4 Mailing List:>> General info about your vehicle, self, etc.:
------------------------------
Date: 01 Apr 97 15:24:55 GMT
From: DFritzsc@smtp.cde.ca.gov (Fritzsche, David)
Subject: Camper Shells
To: toy4x4@tlca.org
I am in a dilemma I have been to three different camper shell outlets. I
go in to these places and say I want to buy a shell for my truck what do
you recommend. I tell them that the truck will be used for heavy four
wheeling (Rubcion, Fordyce Creek, Gold Lake). I received three different
answers. One says fiberglass, the other says ABS plastic, and the third
says steel-not aluminum .Help I want to buy this thing soon.
"WHAT A LONG STRANGE TRIP ITS BEEN"
GRATEFUL DEAD
David Fritzsche
Work (916)323-5568
FAX (916)327-8306
dfritzsc@cde.ca.gov-----Work
otto@inreach.com---------Home
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 10:19:56 -0600
From: Galen Sinkey Subject: Camper Shells
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
David,
Just last week I had a Glasstite Targa fiberglass shell installed on my
Tacoma after months of researching these things.
The Glasstite is simply the beefiest, strongest, most durable shell in
existence. I talked to many hard-core off-roaders, and consistently heard
that the Glasstite shells were the brand to beat.
Glasstite uses at least 15% more fiberglass than anyone else. They look
great; if you would like, I'll send you (or anyone) a small jpg of my truck
with the new shell. I think you'll find that it looks very "OEM" and
matches the style of my truck very well.
You can get in touch with Glasstite at 507-695-2378 to find a dealer; they
are nationwide, so finding one shouldn't be a problem.
- -- Galen
95.5 Tacoma 4X4 SR5 V6, 5 spd, 31s
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 97 08:32:29 PST
From: barney@flowpoint.com (Barney McNamara)
Subject: damn! I always put ".com" instead of ".org"!
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
On Mon, 31 Mar 1997 PSHENG@SCUACC.SCU.EDU wrote:> decide it wants to run hotter now? I don't think the gauge is faulty,> 'cuz when it was near the red, I turned on the heater and I was> afraid it was going to melt my dash! Any ideas? thermostat maybe?
My '83 has heated up since I got it. Every time I drive steady for a couple
hours on the freeway, and everyday when I go over Hiway 17, a 15 minute climb
of 2000 feet over about 5 miles in traffic, the things heats up and the needle
climbs into the red. It seems to cool quickly, if I stop for gas on the
freeway, it drops again a stays down for another few hours.
So far I have changed: radiator, water pump, fan belt, engine, heater core,
water hoses, temperature sender, dash gauge, fan clutch and thermostat twice.
The first thermostat was a 190 degree job that really gave me a lot of heat but
it just ran too close to the top all the time, the second is a 160 degree which
gives a little more room for the eventual climb.
I've decided that the thing is just keeping me on my toes. I always keep a
close eye on the gauge. It has never overheated, never belched steam (at
least since the head gasket blew on the old engine.) It doesn't lose any fluid,
it moves in and out of the overflow tank as it heats and cools. I think it
has something to do with the body lift causing excessive wind resistance
or screwing with the water flow. I've got a "T" fitting in the highest
point in the heater hose where I can bleed air. When it's hot I can crack
the screw-on lid and it spurts fluid, so I'm pretty sure there is no air in
the system.
I just live with it.
______________________________________________________________
Barney McNamara 83 Toyota Short Bed
( barney@flowpoint.com ) stock 22R motor ; 3" body lift
Santa Cruz, Ca. 8" alloy rims; 31" BFG A/Ts
______________________________________________________________
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 16:47:06 -0500 (EST)
From: Ironmenn@aol.com
Subject: damn! I always put ".com" instead of ".org"!
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
In a message dated 97-04-01 11:29:31 EST, you write:
< I've decided that the thing is just keeping me on my toes. I always keep a> close eye on the gauge. It has never overheated, never belched steam (at> least since the head gasket blew on the old engine.) It doesn't lose any> fluid,> it moves in and out of the overflow tank as it heats and cools. I think it> has something to do with the body lift
I would say the body lift is your problem. As someone posted recently, the
location of the fan in respect to the radiator is VERY important. If you did
not lower the radiator, that could be it. Also, cutting the shroud could
cause the fan not to be able to do its job. replacing all those parts will
do nothing if the fan is not in a position to do the work.
David
DRM033@aol.com
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 17:55:40 -0800
From: Gerald Crandall Subject: Detroit Lockers
To: Toyota 4x4 I ahve an opportunity to buy complete axels, front and rear. The front
has tru trac and the rear has Detroit Lockers with 4.11 R&P. This is out
of a 1984 truck with 83K on it. Also a 3 inch lift with springs. He is
asking 650.00 for everything. My question is , since I just purchased
my truck, and not really knowing the value of these items, is the price
right and are they a worthwhile investment. I have heard bad things
about the lockers on a rig that is also a commute truck, hard to handle
and noisy. Anybodies input would be greatlt appreciated.
Jerry
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 18:29:53 -0800
From: Scott Wilson Subject: Detroit Lockers
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Gerald Crandall wrote:> I have heard bad things> about the lockers on a rig that is also a commute truck, hard to handle> and noisy. Anybodies input would be greatlt appreciated.
I have to do the commute here in the bay area w/my Detroit locker. I
must admit, all the stop and go with the locker in annoying. Noise
isn't a problem though, mine is REALLY quite. Overall though, I love
it. I'd be ready to put up with the little annoyance to have a locker
any day. I took it off road for the first time last week and couldn't
believe what an awesome wheelin' machine the locker transforms your
truck into. I drive pavement about 95% of the time, and freeway about
1/2 of that.
YMMV,
Scott
- --
Scott A. Wilson __o __o __o __o
Santa Clara, CA _'\<,_ _'\<,_ _'\<,_ _'\<,_
swilson@pacbell.net (_)' (_) (_)' (_) (_)' (_) (_)' (_)
http://users.uniserve.com/~rcomber/scottw/scottw.htm
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 22:30:20 -0800 (PST)
From: Jonathan Albrecht Subject: Downey/Rancho 10" travel lift
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
On Tue, 1 Apr 1997, Dan Smith wrote:> Does anyone on the list have any experience with the Downey/Rancho 10"> travel IFS lift? I have a 90 4-Runner & am seriously considering this lift> as a way to increase offroad ability and travel on my truck. Just a note
I'd see if you couldn't use their mega travel ball joints, and longer
travel shocks with the regular rancho kit (and don't drop the bumpstop).
With the Downey setup you can't run the hubs locked at highway speeds,
though I've heard of another company's cv joint setup that does let you
run in 4wd at highway speeds, not sure of the name though.
Jonathan Albrecht
albr9619@uidaho.edu
http://www.uidaho.edu/~albr9619/
------------------------------
Date: 1 Apr 1997 16:52:08 U
From: "Jay Kopycinski" Subject: Downy leaf springs and Ranc
To: "Toyota 4x4 List" Subject: Time: 4:53 PM
OFFICE MEMO Downy leaf springs and Ranch KickerM-I Date: 4/1/97
Sterling Rorden wrote:>I have a chance to buy a set of Rancho Kicker shocks for $50 used. Do>these really help reduce axel wrap-up? I sort of like the idea of>shocks instead of torque arms since I mostly drive the truck on the>street.
Yes, to some extent they do reduce axle wrap. But.......the solid rods
are more effective in reducing axle wrap. Their drawback though is
that they also limit axle articulation. If all you really care about is
street performance and only mild offroad use, the torque rods would
serve you better than the shocks.
_____________________________________________
Jay Kopycinski '85 Toylet (ROKTOY)
Gilbert, AZ
ryna10@email.sps.mot.com
http://www.netzone.com/~jayk
Arizona Lo-Rangers 4WD Club TLCA #3243
_____________________________________________
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 08:03:16 -0500
From: s0baker@usuhsb.usuhs.mil
Subject: Driveshaft Lube
To: toy4x4@tlca.org
Can you overfill the "slip joints" (I think that is what they are called) or
the U-Joints with grease? I figured it was time to do it on my '87 4Runner
and noticed that the shaft would expand (like a telescoping antenna) after
I put a few squirts of grease in the slip joint grease fitting. I don't know
what's normal and what is abnormal. Also, what is the best type of grease
to use and is there any type of grease I do not want to use. After the
green antifreeze discussions, I am a little paranoid that I am going to trash
something I am trying to protect. Thanks.
Troy Baker
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 13:14:19 -0600
From: Jack Alford Subject: Driveshaft Lube
To: toy4x4@tlca.org
Troy wrote:>Can you overfill the "slip joints" (I think that is what they are called) or>the U-Joints with grease? I figured it was time to do it on my '87 4Runner>and noticed that the shaft would expand (like a telescoping antenna) after>I put a few squirts of grease in the slip joint grease fitting. I don't know>what's normal and what is abnormal. Also, what is the best type of grease>to use and is there any type of grease I do not want to use. After the>green antifreeze discussions, I am a little paranoid that I am going to trash>something I am trying to protect. Thanks.
Yes, you can overfill them. There is a rubber/plastic plug in the end of
the driveshaft that will get popped out and lost should you overfill the
driveshaft to the point where suspension compression, or even normal use
if you fill it that full, would cause it to be hydraulicly pressed out
by the splined section of the driveshaft going up into the female section
of the driveshaft.
I use Mobil-1 synthetic, in all my u-joints and steering knuckles and
bearings. It is the only type grease that is not water permeable.
It's sortof costly at $4.99 at tube but well worth it in
my opinion. I do not use synthetic lubricants any where else on my
truck.
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Jack Alford Off-Road.com - The best dirt on the net!
jalford@off-road.com http://www.off-road.com/
Decatur, AL
'86 Xcab Toyota Pickup - 33x12.50 BFG MT
Solid Front Axle - Marlin Crawler - ARB's - 4.88's
SFWDA - TLCA #3415 - Rocket City Rock Crawlers
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 22:33:46 -0800 (PST)
From: Jonathan Albrecht Subject: Driveshaft Lube
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
On Tue, 1 Apr 1997 s0baker@usuhsb.usuhs.mil wrote:> Can you overfill the "slip joints" (I think that is what they are called) or> the U-Joints with grease? I figured it was time to do it on my '87 4Runner> and noticed that the shaft would expand (like a telescoping antenna) after
sorry, can't help you out, but this reminded me of a problem we had. Last
summer we tried greasing my friends rear driveshaft, and ended up pumping
the entire (new) grease cartridge in there. Granted this was the
smaller type of grease gun, but still,,. How much grease does the rear
slip joint hold? I'm thinking we might have a problem here...
Jonathan Albrecht
albr9619@uidaho.edu
http://www.uidaho.edu/~albr9619/
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 09:36:34 -0500
From: Ed.Wong@astramerck.com
Subject: Engine swap
To: " - (052)rjmerrell (a) iquest.net" RJ:
I had "heard" rumors that the 22RTE heads were NOT the same as the 22R heads -
but
I cant verify that.
My guess is that the compression ratios are different (the 22RTE was like 7.9,
the 22R was 8.5? and the 22RE was 9.1)
While one CAN run a turbo on a higher compression block - detonation becomes an
issue.
EWong
------------------------------
Date: 1 Apr 1997 12:46:12 U
From: "Jay Kopycinski" Subject: Front driveshaft angles
To: "Toyota 4x4 List" Subject: Time: 12:25 PM
OFFICE MEMO Front driveshaft angles Date: 4/1/97
Nick was asking about front driveshaft angles and shims and such.
Unfortunately the front driveshaft on Toy trucks is fairly short.
This means it doesn't take much lift and droop to start getting
into some trouble with the the yokes on the CV joint on the front
driveshaft.
A lot of 3-4" and up lift kits provide front shims to pitch the
pinion flange upward toward the transfer case to help ease the
driveshaft angles under droop.
Add longer shackles and you complicate the problem because the
longer shackles turn the pinion flange back down. I run both longer
shackles and 3 degree shims on my truck. As Nick stated, pinion
lubrication may suffer when the pinion angle is pitched upward.
However, for the crawling I do and the small angle (3 degree), I
have had no problems. High speed running makes pinion lubrication
more critical, but you also have more lube splashing around too.
One way to increase driveshaft angle capability is to get rid of
the CV joint and run two u-joints on the driveshaft. I just made
a spare like this but have yet to use it on the truck. The CV joint
takes up a lot of distance in the shaft and CVs generally cannot
operate at as great an angle as a u-joint. However, if you run at
high speeds in 4WD, you may have front end vibration problems
without the CV joint.....depends on your lift, angles, etc.
With my current CV joint front driveshaft, I have to run a limit
strap on the front axle to prevent the driveshaft from going into
bind and/or pulling apart.
I have thought of possibly cutting apart my front axle and then
rotating the pinion flange upward to lessen the driveshaft angles.
There may also be a way to install some type of oil slinger to
help with the lubrication problem.
As far as driveshafts go......I run a Spicer (J**p type) CV joint
driveshaft with Toyota flanges and conversion u-joints. I don't
know which........the Spicer or Toyota CVs offer more angular
movement. I need the Spicer piece to run a small diameter
tube to clear my tranny pan.
Toyota driveshafts uses 1-1612 series u-joints and the Spicer
yokes use 1-0153 series u-joints. To mate the Spicer yokes to the
Toyota flanges, I use one of each type u-joint and swap two bearing
caps on each joint. However, you can only do this if the center piece
dimensions are the same on both u-joints.
Spicer also makes longer spline sets (Jack uses these) which help
with the spline length, but not the angle problem. Gloecoe here in
Phoenix also builds spline sections up to about 16" long.
Putting in a Marlin double case would do a lot to cure the driveshaft
bind problem, so that is an option.
Enough rambling........hope this helps a bit.
_____________________________________________
Jay Kopycinski '85 Toylet (ROKTOY)
Gilbert, AZ
ryna10@email.sps.mot.com
http://www.netzone.com/~jayk
Arizona Lo-Rangers 4WD Club TLCA #3243
_____________________________________________
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 07:38:56 -0700
From: nickkrest@batnet.com (Nick Krest)
Subject: Front Driveshaft Mods/Confusion
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Mike Williams wrote:
"Now, I understand the scenario that Nick
is trying to work through. I am also very
interested in a simple solution as I try
to improve the ride and handling of my truck."
Mike (and all) -
Losing the degree shims was the single best thing I could have done for my
truck's on-road handling. As has been previously stated, there is not
enough alignment adjustment built-in to overcome the caster problems you
get into when you start messing with the stock front axle geometry. Now I
understand what Jay has been working on with his idea of pulling and
re-welding all the front axle mounts on his truck.
Let me reiterate what I am trying to do. By pulling the degree shims, I am
trying to eliminate all the quick and dirty band-aids that suspension
manufacturers assume the off-road public wants. The degree shims made the
truck dangerous to drive, IMHO, because of the wandering. It is for this
reason that I wouldn't let anyone drive, including Teri (SCCA license and
all), because I would not be able to face myself in the mirror if someone
else got hurt driving my truck, because of this handling trait. IMHO,
degree shims in your front axle make your truck far more dangerous to drive
than a locker or spool on black ice, or using front (or rear) lift blocks.
I'm very surprised we put up with this.
The problem I am having is with the front driveshaft length and angle. That
means I am going to tackle that problem directly, not indirectly by using
any number of other methods to ameliorate the problem. I feel that a
lengthened shaft, double-Cardan joints on the front of the shaft, and
perhaps a Crawler bolted to the back of the stock transfer (good excuse to
get one - someone please let me know how they like theirs*) will address
that problem directly. If I am pointed in the wrong direction, please let
me know. Otherwise, it's off to the driveshaft shop.
Thanks to all for their input so far.
- Nick
* Michael Greenway already told me how much he LOVES his, but I need more
convincing.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 12:34:49 -0800
From: Locke Christman Subject: Haynes manuals
To: "'toy4x4@tlca.org'" >On the subject of service manuals, in general I have found the Haynes>manuals to be quite useful for both pickups and LandCruisers. However,>I have also noticed that when they cover a wide range of model years>they tend to omit detail from the earlier model years.>>I have a '92 printing of the Haynes Toyota pickup manual and have found>it to be lacking in information on the older Toys (I have an '80).>Several years ago I had an earlier printing (I think '86 or '88) and it>seemed to do a better job with the earlier model pickups (I let it go>when I sold my '82, dumb move x2). Both manuals covered '79 forward,>but the latter one seems to try to cover to many model years and>therefore is less detailed for earlier models. I am pretty sure that>there was info in the older one that has been omitted in the newer>printing, to make room for new stuff no doubt. I wish that they would>print two books, a split at 85/86 for example.>>Has anyone else noticed this? Does anyone know where I can find an>early (first) printing of the Haynes manual, or have one that you are>willing to sell? I talked to Haynes and they said that only the current>printing ('79-95) is available.>>Thanks, Locke> ------------------------------
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 19:01:27 -0800
From: James Brink Subject: Head gasket
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
John,
How many miles on your '84? It is not likely that the leaking head
gasket is a result of your timing-chain R&R. As a matter-of-fact, my '86
22R leaked at the same place. That's why it is in bits'n pieces now. Not
a common problem on 22R** motors but not unheard of in the field. Try to
pressure-test the cooling system to double check the location of the
leak. Upon further inspection, it could also be a core plug. If you are
not losing a lot of coolant, this is no biggie. Just remember, your
cooling system is designed to operate at a certian pressure (no leaks)
so cooling performance might be slightly compromised.
- --
Jim Brink
Toyota/ASE Certified Tech.
brinkjm@earthlink.net
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 2 Apr 1997 03:12:43 -0500 (EST)
From: Ironmenn@aol.com
Subject: Head gasket
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
In a message dated 97-04-01 22:18:16 EST, you write:
<> My truck has 120 thousand on it. If you don't think its that big a worry do
you think that i should still pull the timming chain cover and seal it back
up where the oil is leaking out inbetween the head and timming cover?
thanks for the info
John
Ironmenn@aol.com
84 xtracab
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 20:34:26 EST
From: jeff4cars@juno.com (Jeffrey Samler D Samler)
Subject: inspection
To: toy4X4@tlca.org
For anyone that saw my posting about passing inspection in NJ, I passed!
All they did was check my emissions. It cost me a whopping $15.
Jeff
Jeff4cars@juno.com '89 SR5 Extra Cab V6 5-speed
35/12.5-15 tires with 7 in. lift.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 13:33:03 -0600
From: Jack Alford Subject: Lift springs
To: toy4x4@tlca.org
David wrote:>Ok, I tried calling several places today and just ended up getting>frustrated. I have the rear 4" blocks on my truck and I have come to the>conclusion: they suck! Not just a little, a whole lot! So, I am trying to>find out about replacing them with some lift springs. I have been trying to>keep up with the different posts on these things, but I guess they got lost>in my head. I don't have a problem with putting something together myself,>but this is my daily driver. It has to me a minimal of downtime. I would>also like to talk to anyone who has getten rear springs instead of blocks>with their lift on IFS truck. Info on add-a-lifts also welcome.
Depending upon your use and how much lift you want, for the money you
can't go wrong with running a set of mazda springs. They're ultra
soft and give lots of droop. Though this softness does not come
without a price, which in this case is the need to run a traction
bar to prevent kinking the soft springs. If you read Jay's article
on Off-Road.com, which can be gotten to from:
http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota/toyota.html
You can do it like Jay did and leave the original pair of spring mounts.
This would give you virtually no down time, If you were prepared to do the
swap when the time came.
Jay also mixed/matched some Downey springs he had lying around. I didn't
have any Downey springs so I bought two pairs of Mazda springs and
mixed/matched and cut leaves to make some nice springs packs. They work
great for the $90 I have in the springs and the $50 I have in a new set of
spring mounts. I chose
to remove the old spring mounts before welding on the new mounts, this took
about 1.5 hrs per side, which is why I suggest using the same method Jay did
if this is your only mode of transportation.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 10:20:21 -0600
From: Jack Alford Subject: magnet ?
To: toy4x4@tlca.org
Hello all, I find myself all to often with slivers of metal in
my fingers and hands. I was wondering if anyone knew of any super
strong (joe-average-consumer purchasable) magnet that might have
the ability to remove these slivers from my hands ?? It sure would
be easier than the dig with needle/tweezer method I regularly use.
And before anyone asks the question, Yes, I do wear gloves wherever
possible but it is not a good idea, safety wise, to wear gloves while
using certain pieces of equipment. Thanks.
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Jack Alford Off-Road.com - The best dirt on the net!
jalford@off-road.com http://www.off-road.com/
Decatur, AL
'86 Xcab Toyota Pickup - 33x12.50 BFG MT
Solid Front Axle - Marlin Crawler - ARB's - 4.88's
SFWDA - TLCA #3415 - Rocket City Rock Crawlers
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 19:25:17 -0500 (EST)
From: DRM033@aol.com
Subject: magnet ?
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
this talk about safety and injuries is real important. being the typical
teenager, I thought safety goggles were for wimps. Well, the day I got a
LARGE sliver of metal in my eye taught me otherwise. You think the dentist
is bad? How would you like that drill stuck in your eye? Not fun, let me
tell you. I was lucky: he said if the injury had been in my field of vision,
I would have pretty much lost use of that eye. I use those goggles now, and
usually carrry a pair for somebody else ( like that guy in the van who fixed
Jack's shock).
be safe!
David
DRM033@aol.com
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 22:55:51 -0600
From: Steve Capuano Subject: magnet ?
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Don't take this wrong, but a calloused hand is harder to penetrate. I am an
A/C mech. and believe me I have had plenty o metal in my pores. Try
fiberglass insulation on your forearms and face on for size.
At 10:20 AM 4/1/97 -0600, you wrote:>Hello all, I find myself all to often with slivers of metal in>my fingers and hands. I was wondering if anyone knew of any super>strong (joe-average-consumer purchasable) magnet that might have>the ability to remove these slivers from my hands ?? It sure would>be easier than the dig with needle/tweezer method I regularly use.>And before anyone asks the question, Yes, I do wear gloves wherever>possible but it is not a good idea, safety wise, to wear gloves while>using certain pieces of equipment. Thanks.>> -----------------------------------------------------------------> Jack Alford Off-Road.com - The best dirt on the net!> jalford@off-road.com http://www.off-road.com/> Decatur, AL>> '86 Xcab Toyota Pickup - 33x12.50 BFG MT> Solid Front Axle - Marlin Crawler - ARB's - 4.88's> SFWDA - TLCA #3415 - Rocket City Rock Crawlers>> Steve Capuano
capuano@hypercon.com
NRA lifetime member
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 23:23:21 -0800 (PST)
From: Jonathan Albrecht Subject: magnet ?
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
On Tue, 1 Apr 1997 DRM033@aol.com wrote:> this talk about safety and injuries is real important. being the typical> teenager, I thought safety goggles were for wimps. Well, the day I got a> LARGE sliver of metal in my eye taught me otherwise. You think the dentist> is bad? How would you like that drill stuck in your eye? Not fun, let me
Yeah, no kidding. I found out how important eye protection is (the hard
way) playing paintball once. Man, that sucked.
Seriously, you never realize how important your eye's are until you almost
loose one. (I can't read with it very well, or focus, and my pupil
doesn't work, but at least I can see out of it now, anyway).
FWIW, I've got polycarbonate glasses now. Supposedly they can even stop a
bullet from a 22. Nice and light too.
Jonathan Albrecht
albr9619@uidaho.edu
http://www.uidaho.edu/~albr9619/
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 2 Apr 1997 03:16:40 -0500 (EST)
From: Ironmenn@aol.com
Subject: magnet ?
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
In a message dated 97-04-01 19:33:44 EST, you write:
<> David i can't agree with you more. Ever since i got a piece of metel stuck
in my eye i always make sure that i'm wearing my safety goggles. When I got
the piece of metal stuck in my eye i was only using the grinder for a second.
You can never be to safe.
John
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 21:39:33 -0600 (CST)
From: gfrancis@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (Greg S. Francis)
Subject: Manual Tranny
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org>Also synth gear oil seems to keep the synchros from working>well. Im gonna try RedLine MTL 'cause this is supposed to be>better for that problem.>EWong
I've found this to be true while running Amsoil in my tranny. Where can I
come by some Redline MTL?
- -Greg
Greg S. Francis
University of Texas @ Austin
School of Architecture
gfrancis@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 22:16:49 -0700
From: Tony Bartlett Subject: Moab fix it guy
To: toy4x4@tlca.org
Hey Jack, I hope everything else went good for your trip (I guess I will
find out on part 2). I know it looked like I was doing a lot of work
when I was paying 'John'. But what better way to learn. And possibly
save some labor time. The bad thing was being Sunday. He was the only
person we could come across to help us with something, under normal
conditions (all the proper tools), I could have repaired myself. Also,
I hate having work done and the first thing he does is what you tell him
not to do and there is no way of fixing it (cut my u-bolts to short to
reuse when I upgrade my suspension. I was just happy to back on the
trail within a couple of hours than, more than likely, all day trying to
get my u-bolts broke loose and off. ( I had my u-bolts way to long) I
have my bolts facing up and had about 6 inches above the nuts that I
never cut off. Someday maybe I will remember to correct little problems
when I notice them than wait until they are bigger (cost wise).
Talk to everyone later.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 09:51:41 +0000
From: sbever@jeffnet.org
Subject: Need a Good 4Runner Service Manual
To: Toyota 4x4 List Any suggestions for a '88 4Runner service manual? Haynes? Chilton?
Other?
TIA,
Scott
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 10:12:30 -0800
From: Eric Johnson Subject: Need a Good 4Runner Service Manual
To: "'Toy4x4@tlca.org'" sbever@jeffnet.org wrote:
> Any suggestions for a '88 4Runner service manual? Haynes? Chilton?> Other?
I have a Chilton and a factory manual. Tha factory manual is pretty hard to
beat for the factory-approved way of doing things (yes, even the factory
manual says to change the 22RE timing chain via the 'nonprofessional'
remove-the-head approach :) Its downside is that it is very expensive, and
many procedures specifiy certain $pecial $ervice tool$. But it really is
complete, and covers a lot of stuff the aftermarket manuals do not.
On the other hand, the Chilton manual tells how to do a lot of procedures
using tools us normal humans have, and is much less expensive. Any time I'm
doing something I've not done before, I read both manuals. YMMV. Or I email
my question to this list :)
- --
- -- ej@blarg.net
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 10:19:24 -0800
From: Earle Rother Subject: Need a Good 4Runner Service Manual
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
I have only use the factory manual - I prefer first hand info from the source.
I like them - I have not use any of the other tho.
Earle>Any suggestions for a '88 4Runner service manual? Haynes? Chilton?>Other?>>TIA,>>Scott
Earle Rother
ewr@appsig.com
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 12:24:24 -0600
From: "Michael Rowe" Subject: Need a Good 4Runner Service Manual
To: > Any suggestions for a '88 4Runner service manual? Haynes? Chilton?> Other?
Toyota factory manual for really detailed work like transmission, engine
overhaul, etc. Chilton for basic. However I use Chilton and Haynes and
compare the two. Sometimes one has a tip that helps you get something right
the first time.
michael Rowe
m.rowe@mail.utexas.edu
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 13:49:44 -0600
From: Jack Alford Subject: Need a Good 4Runner Service Manual
To: toy4x4@tlca.org>Any suggestions for a '88 4Runner service manual? Haynes? Chilton?>Other?
I have all of them (Factory Toyota, Haynes, Chilton, Muir's Idiot Guide).
I use the Haynes the most, refering to the Factory manual if needed, it
has excellent torque specs where I can never quite decide what any given
particular manual is deciding to name something when they put together
a torque spec chart. I find the Chilton manuals laking in lots of instances.
Could just be me though.... The factory manual generally tells how to
do things with their special service tool$, where the other manuals give
better details that an average shade tree mechanic can follow and generally
do.
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Jack Alford Off-Road.com - The best dirt on the net!
jalford@off-road.com http://www.off-road.com/
Decatur, AL
'86 Xcab Toyota Pickup - 33x12.50 BFG MT
Solid Front Axle - Marlin Crawler - ARB's - 4.88's
SFWDA - TLCA #3415 - Rocket City Rock Crawlers
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 22:52:52 -0800 (PST)
From: Jonathan Albrecht Subject: Need a Good 4Runner Service Manual
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
On Tue, 1 Apr 1997 sbever@jeffnet.org wrote:> Any suggestions for a '88 4Runner service manual? Haynes? Chilton?> Other?>> TIA,>> Scott
I'd recommend the Haynes and the Factory manual. The factory one runs
about 60 bucks from Downey, and the Haynes tend to be around 20 bucks. I
like having both because the Haynes is aimed at the typical shadetree
howler monkey, where-as the factory one is designed for the dealers (it
says *way* to often, use SST to do "this"). But the Haynes one isn't real
specific, and doesn't always tell you how to do everything on your model
truck.
No experience with the Chilton, accept for my friend's Jeep one, and it
didn't seem quite as good as the Haynes...but they were pretty similar.
Jonathan Albrecht
albr9619@uidaho.edu
http://www.uidaho.edu/~albr9619/
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 10:11:46 -0500
From: Ed.Wong@astramerck.com
Subject: New "Downey " stuff / Race car jargon
To: " - (052)capuano (a) hypercon.com" Steve: (and TLCA 4x4 list)
Sorry 'bout that - I hope I can clear up any confusion
Steve asked:> What is the gain to change the injectors. More fuel? Also, are you adding a> turbo or supercharger to go with the injectors??
Good point!
I'm running LC headers, Borla Exhaust, Downey airbox, Jacobs ignition, timing
set to +4
deg over stock. At full throttle below 4500 rpm, the engine runs lean (K&N
Air/Fuel
meter attached to the stock O2 sensor). My guess is that the EFI computer is
doing
a stock lookup (open loop at full throttle) and the injector pulse width is too
short.
I have NOT attached a dwell meter to verify this.
***Translation - I'm running lean under *certian* conditions.
There are many routes to "fooling" the computer - most are great for
racers (full throttle) but not so good for the street (rich ALL the time).
You can
1 - block off the fuel return hose: IMHO a bad idea because it does
the opposite of what you need - it send fuel when the throttle is closed..
2 - increase fule pressure overall: GrassRoots Motorsports tried this - and
found little gain for large $$ and effort.
3 - adjust the flapper vane - works but makes it rich across the board
4 - larger injectors - works across the borad, but the FI comptuer will
throttle the pulse width back (aka lean it) under cruise conditions.
5 - build yer own FI - will work, but $$ and mondo effort
Steve asked:> Whats a Banjo fitting?
A banjo fitting is normally seen on GM brakes. Instead of attaching a hose, the
hose terminates in a round barrel shaped fitting. A bolt with a hole drilled in
it (two - one running down the center like a gun barrel, and another at 90
degrees
to it so that liquid from the barrel can flow into the "gun barrel") is
used to secure the fitting to the part that it gets attached to.
Uh - these are the same type of fittings that are on the EFI fuel filter.
Steve asked:> Man I am lost with this jargon in your message, please explain better. I> assume that all this is for more HP, Torque, Fuel Econ., etc.
Sorry bout that. I guess I still think I dont know much about Yotas...
I had posted the info to save others from calling, and to pass on my thoughs
on the matter.
All of the FI mods are related to getting more HP out of an engine. Bear in
mind that its usually air flow thats the limiting factor, not fuel.
With then mods that I have, there is now a fuel limiting factor. I think that
the
mods that I have are common enough that others might benifit from any trial
and error that I go through.
Feel free to ask questions - it keeps us honest!
EWong
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 22:48:03 -0600
From: Steve Capuano Subject: New "Downey " stuff / Race car jargon
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Thanks man, curious though what a cam would do for you??
Steve Capuano
capuano@hypercon.com
NRA lifetime member
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 12:14:43 +0500
From: kricker@vt.edu
Subject: Oil Pressure
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
I am about to install a mechanical oil pressure guage on my truck
but I don't know how many psi are normal. Also, how would you rate BFG all
Terrains to Mud Terrains?
Thanks in advance,
Mike
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 09:57:44 -0800
From: Earle Rother Subject: Oil Pressure>> tires
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
don't know about the oil pressure - do you have a problem or do you just
want to monitor it?
On the BFG tires - what type of driving are you going to do?
My experience is the All Terrains last longer than the Mud Terrains and
they are not as loud.. I prefer the All Terrains because of the type of
driving I do 80% on road to 20% off road and hardley never in "mud" - I
hate the cleaning - the All Terrains have never failed me - they may be a
little saver on road because of the greater surface area in contact with
the road.
good luck and as always -
keep th oily side down.
Earle> I am about to install a mechanical oil pressure guage on my truck>but I don't know how many psi are normal. Also, how would you rate BFG all>Terrains to Mud Terrains?> Thanks in advance,>Mike
Earle Rother
ewr@appsig.com
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 02 Apr 97 09:29:37
From: "Fisher, Gary" Subject: overheatin'
To: toy4x4@tlca.org> I have a strange problem w/ my '85 4runner (22RE, 135K miles, bone
stock)-> my temp. gauge usually stays in the bottom 1/4 of the dial, but will> venture farther up if I take a long drive on the freeway or the
weather> all week. The weather here's been pretty warm, but not super hot-> there's plenty of fresh coolant (changed less than 10K miles ago),> overflow tank is full, no leaks, oil is fine... why would my truck
I had the same problem. It turned out being that my radiator fins were
full of mud. I took the radiator out. Hosed it down until I could see
through it again and now all is fine. Before I hosed it, I could only
see through about 10%!!
Gary Fisher
********************************************************
* garyf@hpa.com.au *
* '89 Toyota Hilux Extra cab 2.8 turbo diesel *
* 32' BFG, ARB bars all round *
********************************************************
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 11:53:51 -0500 (EST)
From: SKeene8194@aol.com
Subject: overheating 22re
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
In a message dated 97-03-31 18:42:47 EST, you write:
< I have a strange problem w/ my '85 4runner (22RE, 135K miles, bone
stock)-> my temp. gauge usually stays in the bottom 1/4 of the dial, but will> venture farther up if I take a long drive on the freeway or the weather> is really hot. The other day I noticed that the needle goes at least> halfway up during normal driving, adn I drove down to big sur last> weekend, and it was running just below the red zone. What would cause> the water temp to go up all of a sudden like that? It's been like that> all week. The weather here's been pretty warm, but not super hot-> there's plenty of fresh coolant (changed less than 10K miles ago),> overflow tank is full, no leaks, oil is fine... why would my truck> decide it wants to run hotter now? I don't think the gauge is faulty,> 'cuz when it was near the red, I turned on the heater and I was> afraid it was going to melt my dash! Any ideas? thermostat maybe?
Yes, its likely the thermostat. On the 22RE, it takes maybe 5 minutes and
$5 to replace - I'd try that before anything else. Fan clutch would be the
next place to look given what you've said.
--
-- ej@blarg.net>> When the head gasket blew on my 81 22R I replaced the thermostat as a
precaution.
My radiator also had a big crack in it so that was replaced to. Before all
this my guage
always ran at the bottom 1/4 of the guage no matter what the driving
conditions.
After I got it running again I ended up with the same problem you described.
Over a year I tried replacing the thermostat again with a better brand name.
Then I went and bought the genuine Toyota thermostat. Then the fan clutch.
Nothing made any difference. I then went back to the radiator shop and
accused them of selling me an inferior radiator. He said that he had 2
Toyotas himself and that the stock recommended thamostat of 95 Deg. is too
high. He gave me Stant brand 80 Deg.
Thermostat to put in which I did. Problem solved. The truck now runs
at the lower 1/4 of the temp. gauge again.
Since my radiator was new you will have to get yours checked out. It may
need to be roded out. Also, the radiator shop told my never to use stop
leak. It is made to stop water from flowing through small holes. Since the
radiator is made up of small flat tubes then these tubes will become clogged
by the stop leak as well. The powdered type can cause you to lose 10 or 20 %
of your cooling capacity right off the bat.
Stop leak should be the tool of last resort to get you back to civilization.
Then flush it out of the cooling system compleatly, and get the real leak
fixed properly.
Steve Keene
skeene8194@aol.com
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 21:15:16 -0700
From: Tony Bartlett Subject: overheating 22re
To: toy4x4@tlca.org
Replace your thermostat. In my opionion stock t-stats suck. My
brothers went bad and warped his head. Mine went bad but luckly I
noticed the signes because of my brothers problems.
If you are driving and you notice the gauge going hot, then out of
nowhere it goes back to normal. Then it might be the t-stat. My guage
started going hot about once a month then got worse about once a week.
by the time a would pull over it would be back to normal. It was the
t-stat.
If you have the problem at low rpm and not highway it might be the fan
clutch. Please by Toyota, the price has dropped alot and I have gone
threw 3 fan clutches from checkers(last two under parts warranty) before
I spent the money for a Toyota clutch. Just put it in but my original
lasted 180,000 miles.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 16:01:48 -0500 (EST)
From: Jeffles37@aol.com
Subject: Parts on a 22RET
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Does anyone have an idea as to what the rather large white plastic screw
near the EFI system is (the one with the spring around it), and how to adjust
it? One of my stupid friends started screwing around with it and I don't know
where it's supposed to be set at. Chiltons says nothing. Also, I found that
the rubber stopper on the bottom of my tranny had been open for God knows how
long. I am praying that that is not supposed to be any sort or tranny fluid
stopper, maybe just some sort of service opening? Please cc me directly if
you have the answer.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 18:39:37 -0800 (PST)
From: Bruce Newman Subject: Personal Bio Info
To: Toy4x4 Name: Bruce Newman
City & State: Seattle WA
Country: U.S.A.
E-mail address: brn@u.washington.edu
Toyota (s) year & model: 1987 pickup
Are you a TLCA Member (Y/N/Number?): No.
Age: 23.
Occupation: Student.
Marital Status: Huh? Single.
Hobbies: Communicating with extraterrestrial life.
How did you find out about the Toyota 4x4 Mailing List: Just surfing
the web.
General info about your vehicle, self, etc.: Just bought my first
4WD; can't stand the smell of pickles; looking for easy trails
in Western Washington.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 22:40:44 -0600
From: Steve Capuano Subject: Personal Bio Info
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
can't stand the smell of pickles;
Wow I thought I was the only one!!
Steve Capuano
capuano@hypercon.com
NRA lifetime member
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 02 Apr 97 09:47:36
From: "Fisher, Gary" Subject: Poor Brakes
To: toy4x4@tlca.org
I have a slight problem with my '89 Extra Cab. It wont stop.
I have put new pads up front and had the discs machined. I've fitted
new shoes to the rear and had the drums machined. It leaks no brake
fluid anywhere and my friends tell me that the master cylinder looks
OK?? Could it be that the fluid is too old or hasn't been bled
properly. Under light braking, all works fine but if I jump on the
brake pedal with BOTH feet, it doesn't even lock up a single wheel.
Scarry!!
Thanks in advance.
Gary Fisher
**************************************************
* garyf@hpa.com.au *
* '89 Toyota Hilux Extra cab 2.8 turbo diesel *
* 32' BFG, ARB bars all round *
**************************************************
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 16:39:13 -0800
From: Scott Wilson Subject: Poor Brakes
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Fisher, Gary wrote:>> I have a slight problem with my '89 Extra Cab. It wont stop.>> I have put new pads up front and had the discs machined. I've fitted> new shoes to the rear and had the drums machined. It leaks no brake> fluid anywhere and my friends tell me that the master cylinder looks> OK?? Could it be that the fluid is too old or hasn't been bled> properly. Under light braking, all works fine but if I jump on the> brake pedal with BOTH feet, it doesn't even lock up a single wheel.> Scarry!!
I had a 89 Mazda p/u do that to me once. Turned out to be both the
master cylinder and brake booster. That truck was a hunk of junk, cost
me a $$$fortune$$$ in repairs.
Scott
- --
*****************************************************
Scott Wilson TLCA #5261
88 4Runner SR5 V6
Santa Clara, CA
http://users.uniserve.com/~rcomber/scottw/scottw.htm
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 18:31:59 -0800
From: James Brink Subject: Poor Brakes
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Fisher, Gary wrote:>> I have a slight problem with my '89 Extra Cab. It wont stop.>> I have put new pads up front and had the discs machined. I've fitted> new shoes to the rear and had the drums machined. It leaks no brake> fluid anywhere and my friends tell me that the master cylinder looks> OK?? Could it be that the fluid is too old or hasn't been bled> properly. Under light braking, all works fine but if I jump on the> brake pedal with BOTH feet, it doesn't even lock up a single wheel.> Scarry!!>> Thanks in advance.>> Gary Fisher> **************************************************> * garyf@hpa.com.au *> * '89 Toyota Hilux Extra cab 2.8 turbo diesel *> * 32' BFG, ARB bars all round *> **************************************************
Gary,
Sounds to me like you should bleed the entire brake system, beginning at
the master cylinder, then the right rear, left rear in your case (RHD?)
RR,LF,RF. If your '89 has the S12+8 four piston calipers, these can be
picky when you push the pistons in to fit new pads. In certian instances
if too much brake fluid is forced back into the master cylinder, it can
bypass the next time you depress the brake pedal.
- --
Jim Brink
Toyota/ASE Certified Tech.
brinkjm@earthlink.net
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 16:32:38 -0500
From: Bob Bascom Subject: rear blocks
To: toy4x4@tlca.org
A local 4x4 shop told me that you can use Trailmaster add aleafs that
go to a ch*vy if you cut about 2" off the end. They supposedly will give
a little over 4" of lift and a better ride. I'm planning on testing this
during the summer cuz I don't like my blocks.
Ryan Bascom
'87 4runner
Bascom@erols.com
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 07:52:42 -0700
From: "Martin E. Rubin" Subject: Recommendations on Nerf Bars
To: I've been looking at Nerf Bars recently and am in need of some
recommendations. I like the Smittybilt Nerf Bars (not to mention their
price) but I also really like the Rhino Nerf Bars. Main problem I see
with the Rhino Nerf Bars is their price ($500 or so). Can anyone make any
recommendations or provide information on quality, durability, ease of
installation, etc. for either of these Nerf Bar setup's.
Thanks,
Martin Rubin
'94 4Runner
Yuma, AZ (we got plenty of beach but NO water)
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 12:37:58 -0500 (EST)
From: SKeene8194@aol.com
Subject: Recommendations on Nerf Bars
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
In a message dated 97-04-01 09:56:23 EST, you write:
<> I bought the Smittybuilt Nerf bars. They are just for looks only. Because
of the way they attach, they can be bent up easly by a rock. I had to do
some modifications to my bars for real off road use. I have not seen the
Rihno bars.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 12:31:48 -0800
From: Scott Wilson Subject: Recommendations on Nerf Bars
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org>> I bought the Smittybuilt Nerf bars. They are just for looks only. Because> of the way they attach, they can be bent up easly by a rock. I had to do> some modifications to my bars for real off road use. I have not seen the> Rihno bars.
I've heard exactly the opposite. I hear they're pretty tough, but that
they should be welded to the frame for extra strength. I plan to get
them for my 'Runner. I'm not trying to make you mad, this is just what
I've heard. If I remember right Nick Krest has Smittybuilts that he's
abused :), what do ya think Nick?
YMMV,
Scott
- --
*****************************************************
Scott Wilson TLCA #5261
88 4Runner SR5 V6
Santa Clara, CA
http://users.uniserve.com/~rcomber/scottw/scottw.htm
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 15:59:41 -0700 (MST)
From: Knowles Ken Subject: Recommendations on Nerf Bars
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
I have Smittybuilt bars on my 93 runner. They are bolted on and I've had
it up sliding on rock on the bar. It didn't bend, but I doubt the full
weight of the vehicle was supported solely by the bar. I've also heard
that they would be stronger if welded on, but I liked the idea that the
bolts go through existing holes in the frame. Those are pretty big bolts
too.
- --
Ken Knowles National Snow & Ice Data Center
knowles@kryos.colorado.edu University of Colorado
voice: 303-492-0644 Campus Box 449
fax: 303-492-2468 Boulder, CO 80309-0449
------------------------------
Date: 1 Apr 1997 12:17:02 U
From: "Jay Kopycinski" Subject: Speedo woes.......noisy!
To: "Toyota 4x4 List" Subject: Time: 12:16 PM
OFFICE MEMO Speedo woes.......noisy! Date: 4/1/97
The speedo cable on our '91 4Runner is making a rattling noise
in the instrument cluster. The faster I drive, the louder it gets.
I figured the cable needed to be lubed so I pulled the dash apart
and disconnected the cable. I sprayed some PJ1 chain lube (had it
lying around) down the cable while spinning the lower (trans case)
end with a cordless drill. I then put a bit of grease in the little
cable cup on the back of the speedo and put it all back together.
The cable still makes the rattling noise. Anybody else dealt with
this problem before?
Appreciate any info.
_____________________________________________
Jay Kopycinski '85 Toylet (ROKTOY)
Gilbert, AZ
ryna10@email.sps.mot.com
http://www.netzone.com/~jayk
Arizona Lo-Rangers 4WD Club TLCA #3243
_____________________________________________
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 15:04:07 -0500
From: s0baker@usuhsb.usuhs.mil
Subject: Speedo woes.......noisy!
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Mine makes the noise as well, however, it only does it when it is cold
outside I start the car for the first time that day. That along with
some squeaky belts (again only when mighty cold outside) make me think
the runner is falling apart. But after a couple of minutes, both noises
stop. Let me know if you find out why, I plan on tearing into mine
in the next few days.
Troy Baker
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 21:55:30 +0000
From: *************** P A U L N G U Y E N *************** Subject: Stereo Speakers
To: TOYOTA LIST hey all,
i know this message isn't gonna apply to everyone, but i was wondering
if anyone had any stereo tips on this topic. I currently have a kenwood
CD player in my truck (reg cab 4cyl) and some OZ Audio tweeters and
midranges in the doors. My question is, has anyone squeezed a pair of
subwoofers and an amp behind the seat yet? if so, how was it done and
how big were the subwoofers? sorry to all you guys that don't give a
$%#@ about this topic, but i was just wonderin... :)
-paul
(pkn7564@acs.tamu.edu)
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 20:42:45 -0800
From: Scott Wilson Subject: Stereo Speakers
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
My question is, has anyone squeezed a pair of> subwoofers and an amp behind the seat yet? if so, how was it done and> how big were the subwoofers? sorry to all you guys that don't give a> $%#@ about this topic, but i was just wonderin... :)> My cousin drives an 87 Toy p/u. He currently has 9 PAIRS!!! of speakres
in his cab. (std cad). His system is sooo loud it isn't healthy.
Anyway...he has a pair of 12" subwoofers behind the stock bench seat, I
didn't ask where the amps are, but I believe they're under the seat.
The two 12's are in a cutom box that takes up ALL the availible room
behind the seat. (with the seat all the way back of course) The shape of
the box is just like those "truck" boxes they sell in stores. Tall
triangle box with the speakers facing the seat.
Scott
- --
Scott A. Wilson __o __o __o __o
Santa Clara, CA _'\<,_ _'\<,_ _'\<,_ _'\<,_
swilson@pacbell.net (_)' (_) (_)' (_) (_)' (_) (_)' (_)
http://users.uniserve.com/~rcomber/scottw/scottw.htm
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 2 Apr 1997 02:56:51 -0500 (EST)
From: Ironmenn@aol.com
Subject: Stereo Speakers
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
In a message dated 97-04-01 23:17:23 EST, you write:
< Subject: Toy4x4 Digest V1 #116
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
From: PSHENG@SCUACC.SCU.EDU
Subject: overheatin'
I have a strange problem w/ my '85 4runner (22RE, 135K miles, bone stock)-
my temp. gauge usually stays in the bottom 1/4 of the dial, but will
venture farther up if I take a long drive on the freeway or the weather
is really hot. The other day I noticed that the needle goes at least
halfway up during normal driving, adn I drove down to big sur last
weekend, and it was running just below the red zone. What would cause
the water temp to go up all of a sudden like that? It's been like that
all week. The weather here's been pretty warm, but not super hot-
there's plenty of fresh coolant (changed less than 10K miles ago),
overflow tank is full, no leaks, oil is fine... why would my truck
decide it wants to run hotter now? I don't think the gauge is faulty,
'cuz when it was near the red, I turned on the heater and I was
afraid it was going to melt my dash! Any ideas? thermostat maybe?
- - --Boundary (ID ynNlKZqidyWxQzsDvIUQqA)--
i had EXACT same problem when i had a toyota '86 22r, so i replaced
the thermostat and no more problems.
some things to consider when you change it:
you can buy the one in kragen for 2 bucks and the seal for 1 buck
or bite the bullet and buy the original one from toyota
which costs 12 bucks.
in my case, i decided for the one from toyota, which i
noticed that the temperature was higher, i was told that
it is normal for newer engines, something to do with
emissions.
now i have my 4 runner and i will change the thermostat
because the engine is running cold, it must be stuck
in the open position.
richard
87 4 runner
187,000 miles young
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 02 Apr 97 09:47:32
From: "Fisher, Gary" Subject: toyota 4-runner
To: toy4x4@tlca.org> Dear Eric,> I live in India (really bad roads !!) and am considering the
purchase of
a> Toyota 4-Runner which someone here is selling. It is a 1994 model
(4WD)> with a 2800cc diesel engine (3L). I have not been able to get much> information about this model since diesel engines do not seem to be
very> common. This car was originally imported from Europe (I think !). I
want
to> know what people's experience has been with the diesel version of
these> cars. Is the pick-up sufficient and can it handle up-hill roads ?> The engine specs are - A maximum power of 65KW= approx. 86 hp, and a
max.> torque of 185 Nm = approx 136 lb-ft. Kerb weight of the vehicle is
1800> kg.>> Do you know how I can contact the company ?? I want to know if
there are> any authorised service stations in New Delhi, India.>> Thanks.
I own a Extra Cab with a '3L' 2.8 Diesel engine. It was fine until the
crank shaft broke which is apparently a common problem. I had the
complete engine rebuilt (very expensive),ported and balanced and then
it went OK. It had plenty of torque and pretty good fuel economy
although it was still a bit breathless on big uphills. To fix this I
fitted a Safari Turbo Charger running at aprox 8 pounds boost which
made the engine GREAT!!!
It's offroad manners are supperb. Before the Turbo I couldn't pull
second gear low range up steep hills. Now I can spin all four wheels
in third gear low range and they're 32' wheels. FYI my gears are 4.3
I've been told that my motor could handle a boost of up to about 16
pounds but im too scared of breaking things.
In a nutshell. Normal 2.8 Diesel = Boring
Turbo 2.8 Diesel = UNREAL!!
If you wan't any more info, just ask.
I love it.
Gary Fisher
********************************************************
* garyf@hpa.com.au *
* '89 Toyota Hilux Extra cab 2.8 turbo diesel *
* 32' BFG, ARB bars all round *
********************************************************
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 23:25:47 -0800 (PST)
From: Jonathan Albrecht Subject: toyota 4-runner
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
On Wed, 2 Apr 1997, Fisher, Gary wrote:>> I've been told that my motor could handle a boost of up to about 16> pounds but im too scared of breaking things.>> In a nutshell. Normal 2.8 Diesel = Boring> Turbo 2.8 Diesel = UNREAL!!>> If you wan't any more info, just ask.
What sort of mileage does it get?
Jonathan Albrecht
albr9619@uidaho.edu
http://www.uidaho.edu/~albr9619/
------------------------------
Date: 1 Apr 1997 12:19:47 U
From: "Jay Kopycinski" Subject: Toyota Double Cabs coming!
To: "Toyota 4x4 List" Subject: Time: 11:51 AM
OFFICE MEMO Toyota Double Cabs coming! Date: 4/1/97
Forwarding this..............
TOKYO, JAPAN Toyota Corporation announced today that it would expand its
U.S. based truck line to include models with seating for four adults. Toyota
has manufactured double cab truck models for the international market for a
number of years but has not offered the trucks in North America. Domestic
truck manufacturers have recently started offering trucks with increased
seating capacity, and the move by Toyota to offer double cab models will be a
first for Japanese small truck makers. Toyota has also announced that other
features normally found only on international models will be offered to the
American buying public. Features such as solid beam front suspensions, factory
mounted winches and diesel engines will soon be available. Toyota cites
increased interest in the rugged use of its trucks as the basis for the model
expansion.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 13:36:25 -0600 (CST)
From: "Bruce Burden" Subject: Toyota Double Cabs coming!
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Sure. Right. Nice try.
- --
- -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bruce Burden bruceb@isd.tandem.com Tandem Computers Inc.
512-432-8944 Network Verification 14231 Tandem Blvd.
Auto answer(4 rings) Austin, TX 78726
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 13:39:13 -0600
From: Galen Sinkey Subject: Toyota Double Cabs coming!
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
At 12:19 PM 4/1/97 U, you wrote:> OFFICE MEMO Toyota Double Cabs coming! Date: 4/1/97> APRIL FOOLS!!!! Right???
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 13:17:39 -0800
From: Scott Wilson Subject: Toyota Double Cabs coming!
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Jay Kopycinski wrote:>> Subject: Time: 11:51 AM> OFFICE MEMO Toyota Double Cabs coming! Date: 4/1/97>> Forwarding this..............>> TOKYO, JAPAN Toyota Corporation announced today that it would expand its> U.S. based truck line to include models with seating for four adults. Toyota> has manufactured double cab truck models for the international market for a> number of years but has not offered the trucks in North America.
And the Mega Cruiser will be replacing the RAV4, in Toyota's product
line-up for 1998. ;)
Scott
- --
*****************************************************
Scott Wilson TLCA #5261
88 4Runner SR5 V6
Santa Clara, CA
http://users.uniserve.com/~rcomber/scottw/scottw.htm
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Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 22:02:52 -0700
From: Tony Bartlett Subject: tranny (5th gear noise)
To: toy4x4@tlca.org
I hope this helps a little. I do not have my manual in front of me to
get my bearing straight but you might have lost your bearing that is on
the end of the 5th, reverse shaft. I have lost mine but I lost reverse
instead of 5th. If that bearing is your problem it is the easier of
things to replace in the trans. It is one of the first things you
remove upon disassembly. When my reverse went I had to replace the
reverse gear (on main shaft) and the bearing. I got REAL lucky and got
the two parts used for $20.
Why it happend (if this is your problem) is (as far as I have heard) is
a weak bearing. It gets more stress when larger tires are installed. I
was running 33 inch tires with stock gears for about 5 years before mine
went out.
Still you will not know the exact problem until you pull the trans
apart.
Hope this helps. I did my work myself with only minor problems, using
the factory shop manual. After I reinstalled my trans it was stuck in
reverse. Pulled it all back apart and found I did not line up the shift
forks properly. If you take your truck to a shop you could expect
somewere between 5-10 hours shop labor. If you can remove the trans you
could take off a few hours.
Good Luck. let the list know what you find.
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Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 06:45:27 -0800 (PST)
From: " Jared Rogers" Subject: truck pruchase
To: broadscp@scv.net, Toy4x4@tlca.org>My mechanic said do not buy>any Toy p.u. from 1983 to 1993 with a v-6 motor...what is Toyotas>response..my mechanic indicated that it was a really poor motor...so why>would they keep making it for 10 years.......whats up with that?????
Your mechanic sounds ignorant. They didn't start making the V6 until 1988. the
only major problem with that engine is head gasket failure on some year-models.
Aside from that, the 3.0l V6 is VERY reliable and has a lot of low-end torque.
I have over 100k miles on my 89 4x4 V6 and I'm on the original head gasket.
That engine has been incredibly reliable.
How powerful is a Toyota V6? Well, I can easily say that I'm the ONLY Toyota
4x4 list member who's ever hauled a 54-Chevy pickup in the bed of his truck.
Seriously! One Saturday, me and my dad cut up his old truck with a torch and
loaded all the pieces (frame included) into the bed of my compact Toyota 4x4
and hauled it to the recycling center. The 3.0l V6 didn't even complain! (I
think I need new leaf springs now, though. ugh!)
Jared Rogers
1989 Toyota 4x4 DX X-CAB V6
1990 Toyota Celica GT-S
1991 Toyota 4runner SR5 4WD V6
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Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 22:24:20 -0600
From: Nancy Banks Subject: Typo
To: toy4x4@tlca.org
I was reading Toy4x4 Digest V1 #116, and I saw my
name on the list, Rafe Banks 84 ext. pickup, it
says im from Little Rock, AK, but it's Little
Rock, AR. Im not sure if it was just a mistake or
if I filled out my Bio wrong. If it was my Bio
then you might want to change it.
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Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 20:51:56 -0800
From: Scott Wilson Subject: Typos &UNSUBSCRIBE!!
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org>I was reading Toy4x4 Digest V1 #116, and I saw my>name on the list, **** ***** 84 ext. pickup, it>says im from Little Rock, AK, but it's Little>Rock, AR. Im not sure if it was just a mistake or>if I filled out my Bio wrong. If it was my Bio>then you might want to change it.
Like I said at the top of list when I posted it. PLEASE-direct any
mistakes to ME, Scott. No need to clutter up the
list with unnecessary messages. (Sorry Rafe, I used the wrong
abriviation, consider it fixed.)
On a side note, all you people who are trying to UNSUBSCRIBE, try
reading the pleasant little e-mail you were sent when you got on this
list!! Yes, the one with all the instructions for being on the list!
In that piece of mail you will find the secret to getting off the list.
That's all the hint you're gonna get from me.
- --
Scott A. Wilson __o __o __o __o
Santa Clara, CA _'\<,_ _'\<,_ _'\<,_ _'\<,_
swilson@pacbell.net (_)' (_) (_)' (_) (_)' (_) (_)' (_)
http://users.uniserve.com/~rcomber/scottw/scottw.htm
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Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 08:34:32 +0000
From: sbever@jeffnet.org
Subject: What Torque Wrench to Buy?
To: TLC , OFFROAD ,
Need to buy a torque wrench. Suggestions? How 'bout the local tool
shop for $25? A Craftsman? A Snap-On? Is one more accurate and
stays calibrated longer, or are they all about the same?
TIA,
Scott
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Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 10:41:35 -0600
From: "Michael Rowe" Subject: What Torque Wrench to Buy?
To: > Need to buy a torque wrench. Suggestions? How 'bout the local tool> shop for $25? A Craftsman? A Snap-On? Is one more accurate and> stays calibrated longer, or are they all about the same?
I typically buy Craftsman unless it is a specialty tool that only Snapon
makes like their ratcheting screwdriver ($50 and worth everypenny-I suggest
one to everybody), etc. I use Craftsman torque wrenches and they seem to do
the job plenty fine. For working on general automotive repairs that is. I
wouldn't use one if I was building aircraft components or any
mission-critical/high tolerance applications.
Michael Rowe
m.rowe@mail.utexas.edu
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Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 11:24:40 -0600
From: Jack Alford Subject: What Torque Wrench to Buy?
To: toy4x4@tlca.org
Scott wrote:>Need to buy a torque wrench. Suggestions? How 'bout the local tool>shop for $25? A Craftsman? A Snap-On? Is one more accurate and>stays calibrated longer, or are they all about the same?
I'd stay away from the Craftsman torque wrenches, unlike all the other
Craftsman tools, their torque wrenches only have a 1 yr. limited
warranty, not to mention the fact that they are quite expensive and
quite comparable in quality to the much cheaper ones found at the
larger auto parts stores. I bought a Thorsen for $39.99 from
Advanced Auto, it has a lifetime warranty and is quite a healthy
sized tool. I'm sure it's not as super-accurate as a Snap-on or
a MAC but for what I do I doubt I'd ever know the difference and
my wallet is much thicker too...
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Jack Alford Off-Road.com - The best dirt on the net!
jalford@off-road.com http://www.off-road.com/
Decatur, AL
'86 Xcab Toyota Pickup - 33x12.50 BFG MT
Solid Front Axle - Marlin Crawler - ARB's - 4.88's
SFWDA - TLCA #3415 - Rocket City Rock Crawlers
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Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 05:58:53 -0600
From: Steve Capuano Subject: Who's on the List
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
At 09:09 PM 3/31/97 -0800, you wrote:>OK, here it is once again, the members of this list to the best of my>knowledge. I>post this once a month at the beginning of the month. The list is made>up from the info that each of you put into your bios. As always, if I>entered the info wrong, or it has changed in someway, feel free to>e-mail me direct and I'll fix it for you.>>I see a lot of people with "soon" or "just applied" in the TLCA member>field on their bios, if you've gotten your number since you sent your>Bio, send it to me and I'll add it for you.
Now you need a map to go with this so we can see where the Toy population
density is highest. :)
Steve Capuano
capuano@hypercon.com
NRA lifetime member
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Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 10:34:15 -0500
From: Ed.Wong@astramerck.com
Subject: Yota V6s
To: " - (052)broadscp (a) scv.net" Martin
All this info is from memory - it may not be 100% correct.
I believe that 88 was the first year for V6 Yotas (trucks) (3VZE)
- that block was used until the new Tacos - so till 95.5
The 3VZE is derived from the Camry engine (or it IS the Camry engine,
Im not that sure since Im a 20/22R man myself:)
Contrary to popular belief - developing a *production* engine (not a race
engine)
is a long and expensive affair - easily in the tens of millions $$. So ANY
manufacturer does not do a clean sheet engine that often.
Usually a production manufacturer will "tweak" and engine or "adapt" it.
(like the SB chevy with two cycl lopped off becomes the 231 V6)
(or add turbos and superchargers, manifolds, EFI etc)
The 18/20/22R family has been around since the late 60s and was I believe
a TRUCK engine from the get go - designed for torque first.
The 3VZE engine was a car engine - designed for HP - and then adapted
to fit the trucks to fill a market need.
My guess is it takes about 3-5 years to go from engine concept to production.
In the late 70s and early 80s, the fuel crisises were still fresh in most
minds,
and Yota built a reputation for tuff "mini landcruiser" trucks with thrifty
4 cycl engines.
With the drop in oil prices in the US (gas costs after inflation adjustments
are similar to 1972/73!) American buyers wanted more HP and were
turning to the competiton (Ford, GM, Chevy) to get traditional pushrod
torque.
So - by the Mid 80s, the US auto manufs were staging a "comeback" from
near death (ok - thats my opinion) by selling wat Americans always wanted but
could not afford - big cars (which were strangulated by CAFE and other
government nonsense) Since big cars were not available - people bought big
trucks.
Yota needed to put HP back into their trucks - but they didnt have a big
engine redily available in their production parts box. So instead - the did
what other imports were doing; started a crash program to develop
engines and bought time with two "tricks":
1 - tweaks (aka turbos and EFI)
2 - adapt (put car V6s in trucks)
Anyway - what you are seeing IMHO is the cost of that crash program -
reliability of car engines that have been "hopped up" and put in trucks -
which are probably use MUCH harder than the V6's in cars.
The V6 headgasket issue is real - but I'm not sure how extensive it is.
BTW - I've heard similar head gasket horror stories from Blazer buyers,
but GM is even less responsive (most were leased so it wasnt their problem)
EWong
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Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 21:01:05 +0000
From: Chris To: "Toy4x4@tlca.org" Unsubscribe Toy4x4
------------------------------
The views expressed in Toy4x4 are those of the individual authors only.
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