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Toyota 4x4 Digest

Publish date: Mar 28, 1997
By: ORC STAFF
Source: Off-Road.com

Toy4x4 Digest Fri, 28 Mar 97 00:30:02 (HST) Volume 1 : Issue 112
Today's Topics:
39x18.50 (3 msgs)
39x18.50 tires (2 msgs)
4Runner pics wanted (2 msgs)
95 Astro Van Awd conversion
anone have a red truck? (2 msgs)
anyone have a red truck
Apology (2 msgs)
Bad Head Gasket
Bio (2 msgs)
Borla Cat-Back
CA SVRA's (2 msgs)
CCCCRRRREEEAKKKKK
CV boot (2 msgs)
detroit (5 msgs)
Diff Breathers
Front driveshaft mods (2 msgs)
Good Battery?
Head gasket.. Toyota -VS- Ford
How low do you go?
Keith w/91 4Runner
Manual Tranny (3 msgs)
Manual Tranny (Solution) (3 msgs)
motor swap...used to be toy4x4digestv1#110
None (4 msgs)
Oil Filters (4 msgs)
passing inspection (2 msgs)
Please!! (2 msgs)
Rancho brake pads and shoes (2 msgs)
remove from mailing list
Special order Taco, tire question
Toy # 2 (2 msgs)
Toyota Oil filter?
Toyota Oil filter? Was "None"
Transmission
Unsubscribe
Winch (2 msgs)
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 13:20:16 -0700
From: nickkrest@batnet.com (Nick Krest)
Subject: 39x18.50
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Steve Capuano wrote:
"...I talked to a mechanic today whose
good friend and him installed 39x18.50
tires on an IFS truck."
Jonathan Albrecht wrote:
"What kind...fender trimming did
he have to do?"
My personal guess would be liberal use of a Sawzall and a cutting torch.
- Nick
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 19:07:13 -0700
From: "Colin Learning" Subject: 39x18.50
To: I have a buddie in Kelowna BC who runs 38.5x16 TSL's on 15x12 Centerline
wheels. His truck is a 93 reg cab short box. It has a 6.5" suspension lift
as well as a 3"body lift. It runs great! I believe the back tires rubbed
the box a couple of times but never any problems with the front. If your
wondering about the lift, he is a steel fabricator and designed the lift
himself. After a year of hard use he stripped it down to check it out and
everything was in great shape (no bends, no cracks). The truck is still in
use today.
Colin Learning
clearning@ccinet.ab.ca
85 Toy X-Cab, 4.3 LT.,ARB front, LSD rear
33" Yokohama Mud Diggers>Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 22:05:37 -0800 (PST)>From: Jonathan Albrecht >Subject: 39x18.50>To: Toy4x4@tlca.org>>On Wed, 26 Mar 1997, Steve Capuano wrote:>>> FWIW..I talked to a mechanic today whose good friend and him installed>> 39x18.50 tires on an IFS truck.>>>> Supposedly the only one in Houston.>>What kind of lift/fender trimming did he have to do? Also, do you think>you could keep us posted as to how the truck holds up?>>Jonathan Albrecht>albr9619@uidaho.edu>http://www.uidaho.edu/~albr9619/> ------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 22:26:53 -0600
From: Steve Capuano Subject: 39x18.50
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Dunno about lift and fender trim...try to find out though.
Hold up is going to be good considering 4 Wheel Wholesalers mechanic put it
on his friends truck who I assume is heavy into wheelin.
\\At 10:05 PM 3/26/97 -0800, you wrote:>>On Wed, 26 Mar 1997, Steve Capuano wrote:>>> FWIW..I talked to a mechanic today whose good friend and him installed>> 39x18.50 tires on an IFS truck.>>>> Supposedly the only one in Houston.>>What kind of lift/fender trimming did he have to do? Also, do you think>you could keep us posted as to how the truck holds up?>>Jonathan Albrecht>albr9619@uidaho.edu>http://www.uidaho.edu/~albr9619/>>> ------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 16:53:39 -0800
From: rmurray@gvn.net (Rick Murray)
Subject: 39x18.50 tires
To: TOY4X4@TLCA.ORG>FWIW..I talked to a mechanic today whose good friend and him installed>39x18.50 tires on an IFS truck.>>Supposedly the only one in Houston.
FWIW huh ? Well, as they say in Texas, 'ain't worth a bucket of warm spit'.
Show that there's 2 really stupid people in Houston, and 39 fewer in San Diego. ;-)
##################################################################
Rick Murray 84 Toyota 4Runner SR5
rmurray@gvn.net stock 22R motor ; 3" ProComp Lift
http://www.gvn.net/~rmurray/ 8" steel rims; 33" BFG M/T
Rancho Cordova, Ca. 4.88 gears; Marlin TCase #67 ; TRD LSD
##################################################################
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 23:03:17 -0600
From: Steve Capuano Subject: 39x18.50 tires
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Whadda ya mean, man....just thought 39 was pretty extreme for IFS.
At 04:53 PM 3/27/97 -0800, you wrote:>>FWIW..I talked to a mechanic today whose good friend and him installed>>39x18.50 tires on an IFS truck.>>>>Supposedly the only one in Houston.>>FWIW huh ? Well, as they say in Texas, 'ain't worth a bucket of warm
spit'.>Show that there's 2 really stupid people in Houston, and 39 fewer in San
Diego. ;-)>##################################################################>Rick Murray 84 Toyota 4Runner SR5> rmurray@gvn.net stock 22R motor ; 3" ProComp Lift> http://www.gvn.net/~rmurray/ 8" steel rims; 33" BFG M/T>Rancho Cordova, Ca. 4.88 gears; Marlin TCase #67 ; TRD LSD>##################################################################>> ------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 14:52:19 -0800
From: Eric Johnson Subject: 4Runner pics wanted
To: "'toy4x4@tlca.org'" I've finally got some time to work on the 4runner pages again. I'd like to
get more 4runner pictures for the 'Readers Runners' page at
http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota/4_rigs.html
especially from years I don't have already, and also any 4runner
forerunners, like the Trekker, Trailblazer, and Wolverine. I'd love to also
see pics from anyone with a 1990+ 2-door 4Runner.
If any of you have a scanned picture of your 4Runner and would like to show
it off there, please contact me.
- --
- -- ej@blarg.net
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 00:52:16 -0800
From: Frank Di Giovanni Subject: 4Runner pics wanted
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
At 02:52 PM 3/27/97 -0800, you wrote:>I've finally got some time to work on the 4runner pages again. I'd like to>get more 4runner pictures for the 'Readers Runners' page at>http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota/4_rigs.html>especially from years I don't have already, and also any 4runner>forerunners, like the Trekker, Trailblazer, and Wolverine. I'd love to also>see pics from anyone with a 1990+ 2-door 4Runner.>>If any of you have a scanned picture of your 4Runner and would like to show>it off there, please contact me.>-->-- ej@blarg.net> My 90 2dr 4Runner is in my signature below,help your self to the pic.
_______________________________________________________
Frank Di Giovanni shoalseeker@geocities.com
http://www.geocities.com/Baja/1228/pics.html
1990 Toyota 4 Runner SR5 V6 4X4 2dr.
BFG All-Terrains,Trailmaster Invader sk,Warn combo winch bumper,
Smittybuilt nerfbars, k&n air filter, Hi-lift jack, cb radio, wilson antenna,
Aurora ignition
________________________________________________________
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 02:50:54 -0800
From: Frank Di Giovanni Subject: 95 Astro Van Awd conversion
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
At 02:45 AM 3/27/97 UT, you wrote:
How about the adaptor for my Toyota>Transfercase, will it just bolt on to this tranny?> I want to know what are your suggestions with what I have as far as do
I want>to get another Tranny, or keep the one that came with the motor. One
thing I>know my 4-speed toyota tranny is garbage, so I'm not using it.> Please give me a hand here, to anybody out there that has done this ,
or know>what needs to be done in order for this engine to work on my little
toyota,>and if possible point me to a specialized truck-conversion parts' store
that I>could buy the necessary parts for this conversion.> I'm very appreciative of all your help,> Steve Kirschner, Seattle, WA.
You can try to get a hold of Advance Adapters, they have a web site but
it is still under construction. See if they have a Catalog request on
their site. ( I haven't been on their site for a while so I don't know if
they have updated it.)
Their site is located at: http://advanceadapters.com/
If they don't have their site running yet, here is their snail
mail address:
Advance Adapters, Inc.
P.O. Box 247
335 Santa Bella Ave.
Paso Robles, CA
93447
(805)238-7000 Nationwide
(805)238-4201 Fax
(805)350-2223 Toll Free
aadapters@tcsn.net E-Mail
This is the address I got from the back of an old Catalog " Buyer's Guide No. 23" Aug. 15/96
I hope this points you in the right direction, sorry I couldn't be more
help.
_______________________________________________________
Frank Di Giovanni shoalseeker@geocities.com
http://www.geocities.com/Baja/1228/pics.html
1990 Toyota 4 Runner SR5 V6 4X4 2dr.
BFG All-Terrains,Trailmaster Invader sk,Warn combo winch bumper,
Smittybuilt nerfbars, k&n air filter, Hi-lift jack, cb radio, wilson antenna,
Aurora ignition
________________________________________________________
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 08:14:16 -0800 (PST)
From: " Jared Rogers" Subject: anone have a red truck?
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org>I've got a red 93 4Runner and the paint has faded on the top surfaces>(hood and roof), not the sides. Does anyone else with a red truck have>this prob? I spoke to Toyota about this and, of course, they said it>was because i didn't polish the truck regularly.
Recently, I was talking with a guy who runs a body shop. He told me that Black
and Red paint are the best colors to have. He said that black and red can
always be polished to look new. My 89 4WD truck looks like BRAND NEW after it's
trip to the body shop to have the stripes removed. They machine-buffed the
entire truck and it looks gorgeous. If my 89' looks this good, then your 93
should look even better when properly polished. I suggest you take the truck to
a good detail shop where they use professional equipment. You can also get
professional car polish at a body-shop supply store.
Jared Rogers
1989 Toyota 4x4 DX X-CAB V6
1990 Toyota Celica GT-S
1991 Toyota 4runner SR5 4WD V6
- ---------------------------------------------------------
Get Your *Web-Based* Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
- ---------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 09:22:52 -0800
From: Eric Johnson Subject: anone have a red truck?
To: "'Toy4x4@tlca.org'" Jared Rogers wrote:> Recently, I was talking with a guy who runs a body shop. He told me that Black> and Red paint are the best colors to have. He said that black and red can> always be polished to look new. My 89 4WD truck looks like BRAND NEW after it's> trip to the body shop to have the stripes removed. They machine-buffed the> entire truck and it looks gorgeous. If my 89' looks this good, then your 93> should look even better when properly polished. I suggest you take the truck to> a good detail shop where they use professional equipment. You can also get> professional car polish at a body-shop supply store.
FWIW: Last time I had a detail done (on a car) my detail guy had two price lists:
"Regular" and "Black", and any exterior work on black was about 50% more.
He explained that Black looks fantastic when polished up, but you gotta polish it
much more carefully than other colors, because even the tiniest scratch shows
up real well. I believe it; my rig is dark grey and I spend a lot of time buffing out
scratches after wheeling, where my old white pickup (2wd) hardly showed dents,
let alone scratches.
My next 4x4 will probably be white or tan. :)
- --
- -- ej@blarg.net
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 12:45:57 -0500 (EST)
From: TXPakRat@aol.com
Subject: anyone have a red truck
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Boy, can I empathize with you. I have a '90 4Runner with the bright
(almost) red paint. I lived in San Antonio, TX from '89 to '91 (strong sun,
heat); San Francisco, CA from '91 to '93 (salt sea air and fog); Colorado
Springs, CO from '93 to '95 (very strong sun); and currently live in the DC
area (road salts, acid rain). I am in the military by the way (it accounts
for the constant moving)! With the exception of the two years in SF, my
truck is/was garaged when I am at home.
However, my roof and hood are oxidized and faded bad enough for me to
notice. The side panels and tailgate are fine. It is not bad enough to
justify a new paint job yet (although I have already decided on what I want,
and it is going to be expensive!). I have tried using a clear coat safe
buffing compound, Magic Clay, and colored wax. The buffing compound did
nothing at all. The Magic Clay helped smooth the finish, but didn't really
do much for the oxidation/fading. The color match wax probably worked the
best. It helped to restore some of the color. My wife thinks that it made a
big difference, I can still tell it is faded (the truck is my baby not
her's!). When I have the time, there are a couple of paint restorative
'packages' on the market that supposedly work well (I saw one on ShadeTree
Mechanic). Although, I take advertising with a grain of salt (actually, a
whole shaker!)
I have been told by "reputable" people (auto detailers, auto painters,
and car magazine articles), that red is the worst of all colors to have on a
car (and bright red is the worst red!). It oxidizes faster than any other
color. It has something to do with its place in the color spectum and light
compatibility!
As for my new paint, here is what I want to eventually get. I want to
start on the roof with bright red. As the paint moves down the truck I want
it to get darker until it blends into black at the bottom of the body panels!
I have been told that it can be done by using progressively darker shades of
red in horizontal sections of the truck and blending them as they meet.
Pretty cool idea, huh! However, you are looking at a couple of grand for a
(good) custom paint job!
Bob 'Pack Rat' Wren
TXPakRat@aol.com
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 12:46:01 -0500 (EST)
From: TXPakRat@aol.com
Subject: Apology
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
I did it again! I appologize for the garbage in my 'bio' the other day.
I keep forgetting that aol does not do a clean job of cut and paste from
other documents!
If anyone is interested, I can resend it correctly!
Bob 'Pack Rat' Wren
TXPakRat@aol.com
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 02:27:50 -0500
From: WartHog Subject: Apology
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
TXPakRat@aol.com wrote:>> I did it again! I appologize for the garbage in my 'bio' the other day.> I keep forgetting that aol does not do a clean job of cut and paste from> other documents!>> Uhhh, You cant run Netscape through AOL? And here, I thought all major
providers offerd a ppp or slip connection.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 11:58:20 -0800 (PST)
From: Michael L Martin Subject: Bad Head Gasket
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
I've got the same thing going on w/ my '84. Depleting reserves of
a-freeze, but no visible leaks. I did notice there was a-freeze on the
backside of my engine when I replaced the clutch (mistakenly-oops) a month
or so ago(problem: slave cylinder). Anywho, the hoses are all ok. What
ticks me off is that I got poked to the tune of $900 in SoCal for doing
my Head Gasket in the summer of 95 when I was down in the Mojave. F@#$@rs!
I drove the thing for 6 months, parked it for 7 while I was in Thailand,
and have been driving it a bit for the past 7 months (buses are cheaper,
and less wear and tear on the rig). So, there hasn't been that much
use on the thing since the job. BUT, it'll have been 2 years by June.
Makes me wonder what I did to deserve this.........
BTW- the techno-goofs down there also screwed up my exhaust when
doing it. I had been toasting in the desert for 2 weeks alone, was out
of cash (enough to drive back to WA state) and didn't have the patience
to wait for them to fix THAT. Ugh. I'm almost to the point of swearing
that all mechanics are out to screw you. Had enough bad experiences in
Spokane,WA to warrant trying to figure out how to do stuff myself.
Sorry about the rant, but sometimes ya just gotta let go and I
figure you all can relate........
M.
mmichael@wsunix.wsu.edu
http://www.wsu.edu:8080/~mmichael
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 20:24:41 EST
From: jeff4cars@juno.com (Jeffrey Samler D Samler)
Subject: Bio
To: toy4x4@tlca.org
On Sat, 1 Mar 1997 20:48:17 -1000 Toy4x4-Request writes:>Personal Bio Info>>POST TO THE LIST ONLY>> toy4x4@tlca.org>+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++>>Name: Jeff Samler>>City & State: Flemington, New Jersey>>Country: US>>E-mail address: jeff4cars@juno.com>>Toyota (s) year & model: 1989 SR5 V6 4X4 Extra Cab>>Are you a TLCA Member (Y/N/Number?): no>>Age: 17>>Occupation: School, Agway, mowing lawns>>Marital Status: single>>Hobbies: admiring my new truck>>How did you find out about the Toyota 4x4 Mailing List: offroad.com>>General info about your vehicle, self, etc.: Am in high school and have
a job at Agway and I mow 4 lawns. My truck is completely loaded with the
exception of a sunroof, has the 5-speed manual, 88,000 miles, a 4 in.
Trailmaster lift, a 3 in. body lift, 35/12.5-15 Dunlop Radial Rovers,
American Racing wheels, and a Denon Stereo. I plan on adding lots of
aftermarket parts to it such as nerf bars and a sunroof. Guess what, the
head gaskets are original with no signs of getting ready to blow.>> ------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 18:13:59 -0800 (PST)
From: Chris Geiger Subject: Bio
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org> head gaskets are original with no signs of getting ready to blow.
Just you wait....
Chris Geiger http://home1.gte.net/cgeiger/offroad.html
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 09:03:29 -0800 (PST)
From: Kevin Valentine Subject: Borla Cat-Back
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
I've just installed the Borla Cat-back on my '88 4Runner V6. I must say
I'm not sure I'm satisfied. I could not get it to fit how I think it
should. It absolutely will not hook up to the 2 hangers for the muffler
section. The tail pipe (end) section is not positioned properly now that
I've had to move the other pieces to get the muffler off the shock
absorber. When I started the install I soon found that the stock gasket
did not fit over the Borla. I called Borla and they ended up telling me
it does not require a gasket, that stainless will expand and contract and
to get a good seal I would have to heat up the system, let cool, tighten
it and repeat the procedure. Well, I did this and it still leaked and I
ended up twisting off a couple corners of one of the bolts. I bought a
new gasket and hammered the thing over the Borla "making it fit" which did
not look really nice! Put the bolts in and started tightening it as it
came together I put some gasket and pipe sealer around the flange pieces
and then tightened it up as far as it would go - (this is when the bolt
got rounded off). I'm really not sure if I got any more power out of the
thing. Oh, yeah, I forgot to mention that the gasket seemed to seal it
up pretty good. I'm just worried about getting the bolt back out or
having to tighten it some more. I'll probably replace the bolt because I
think my chances are better in getting the thing out that tighter at this
point.
I'd like to know how others experiences installing the Borla went. Like I
say, I don't seem to notice much more power, if any but it does sound a
little different. Just a bit more throatier. I noticed more of a
difference in performance just by adding the K&N filtercharger. I think
this reflects a different result than one of the other list members who
said he felt the big gain when he installed the Borla after the K&N.
Did I mention that the tail pipe end section currently curves down towards
the ground a bit which I don't like. I could see it bumping something
when I'm going over some off road terrain. Not good. I'll try again to
reposition it.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 19:11:41 -8 GMT
From: "Leo G. Divinagracia III" Subject: CA SVRA's
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org> From: PSHENG@SCUACC.SCU.EDU>> I was poking around on the web and found the CA OHV recreation area> page, and I was wondering if any of y'all have 'wheeled at hungrey valley,> prarie city, hollister hills, carnegie, ocotillo wells, or oceano dunes-> If you have, I'd be interested in hearing how the 4X4 trails were- the> web pages didn't give too much info like how many of the trails are> accesible to 4X's, how long they are, etc. In case anyone was wondering,> the web site is www.calohv.ca.gov> funny you should mention this. check out my web page at:
http://www.sbeusers.csuhayward.edu/~ldivinag
and follow the semi-out dated link and i have pixs from last trip, feb 22
at hollister hills SVRA. it's almost my main place to play and one of
these days, i'll plan a trail maintainance day and finish GPS'ing the
entire park... oh, btw, those interested, i'm planning another get-
together there on april 20th, a sunday. keep this in mind and i'll do a
better announcement in a couple weeks or so...
oh as for how the trails are in HH, keep in mind that the last three
'tough truck' challenge put out by 'four wheeler' mag has been in HH. but
never fear, it's like a ski resort so there's green, blue and black trails
for everyone and everything - there's a seperate section for motorcycles,
atvs, etc. $4 gets you in for a day, $6 for an ovenight stay. they do
have campgrounds and town is about 10-15 minutes away for all the stuff
you need, including a hospital. 8-))
- -----------------------
Leo G. Divinagracia III
ldivinag@csuhayward.edu
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 20:31:31 -0800
From: rmurray@gvn.net (Rick Murray)
Subject: CA SVRA's
To: TOY4X4@TLCA.ORG
I've been to nearby Prairie City. Lots of mud in the winter, since it sits on
softly rolling hills with lots of low wet spots. Dries up in summer. No real
natural 4x4 trails. A few challenging hill climbs.
There are some very challenging man-made spots , if you really want to test your
built rig. They (including myself as a volunteer) have built a 'mini-Rubicon'
that's more difficult than most of the Rubicon itself. There's a frame-twister,
a 'sand-box', and a steep hill-climb with boulders. Only us serious types use
that stuff, most everyone else (ie - Explorers, Pathfinders, etc) just watch.
Cost $5 to get in, and I don't believe its open every day, so call ahead.
##################################################################
Rick Murray 84 Toyota 4Runner SR5
rmurray@gvn.net stock 22R motor ; 3" ProComp Lift
http://www.gvn.net/~rmurray/ 8" steel rims; 33" BFG M/T
Rancho Cordova, Ca. 4.88 gears; Marlin TCase #67 ; TRD LSD
##################################################################
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 08:54:10 -0500
From: s0baker@usuhsb.usuhs.mil
Subject: CCCCRRRREEEAKKKKK
To: toy4x4@tlca.org
If it is coming from the rear of the truck when you turn, it may be that
your differential is screwed up, that is the only part in back that
really moves when you turn.
Troy Baker
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 22:52:34 -0800
From: Scott Wilson Subject: CV boot
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Jonathan Albrecht wrote:>> Also, you can do what I did. Trash a CV boot under warranty and have the> ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^> How'd you do that?
My favorite way is to have a stick or a rock tear though it. Anyone
else have a favorite?
Scott
- --
Scott A. Wilson __o __o __o __o
Santa Clara, CA _'\<,_ _'\<,_ _'\<,_ _'\<,_
swilson@pacbell.net (_)' (_) (_)' (_) (_)' (_) (_)' (_)
http://users.uniserve.com/~rcomber/scottw/scottw.htm
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 22:59:25 -0800 (PST)
From: Jonathan Albrecht Subject: CV boot
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org>>> Also, you can do what I did. Trash a CV boot under warranty and have the>> ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^>> How'd you do that?>> My favorite way is to have a stick or a rock tear though it. Anyone> else have a favorite?
It's not a favorite, but when my friend and I did his suspension lift, I
forgot to put something underneath the rotor/hub assembly when I was
pressing out the upper ball joint...
I was just sitting there cranking away at that poor puller, and just as I
was about ready to give up *BAM* it popped out. Second later the whole
lower wishbone/knuckle/hub flopped downward, and fortunately the cv boot
stopped it about 2" shy of my crotch(!). Then I looked up and noticed
that the cv boot was ripping in half! Before the thing fell apart and
smashed me, I quick grabbed the cv and crammed the whole mess back
together, shoved a jackstand under the hub, and then said to my friend,
"okay, got this bugger apart, now it's your turn!"
Jonathan Albrecht
albr9619@uidaho.edu
http://www.uidaho.edu/~albr9619/
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 13:11:26 -0800 (PST)
From: Jonathan Albrecht Subject: detroit
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
This question is kinda aimed at Scott, (since he just got the Detroit) but
I'd appreciate other's responces too.
One thing I'm wondering about is how much the slop/ratcheting action in a
detroit locker effects general driving with a *manual* transmission. Do
you really notice the extra backlash when shifting. Like say you gas it
and then let off, does it kinda free-wheel for a second then go 'clunk'?
Some other questions. Ok, imagine you are driving in the following
situations with a locker/manual tranny. What happens/what's the truck do
differently:
Let's say you start from a stop and immediatly turn (like from a 4 way
stop and you want to go right). Let's say your in a hurry, and you really
gas it off the line and around the corner. What happens?
Next, let's say you approach a 90 degree turn off at 30mph or so, and
quick downshift into 2nd, and swing around the corner fast/hard. What's
it do? (I know, I know, this isn't real safe, but sometimes I like to do
that).
Let's say your are downtown, and trying toparrallel parking on a steep
hill. Is it any worse than usual? (like it's not hard enough already!)
If you are trying to accelerate fast on a sharp turning, steep on-ramp,
how does it react?
Thanks,
Jonathan Albrecht
albr9619@uidaho.edu
http://www.uidaho.edu/~albr9619/
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 13:25:49 -0800 (PST)
From: Chris Geiger Subject: detroit
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org> This question is kinda aimed at Scott, (since he just got the Detroit) but> I'd appreciate other's responces too.>> One thing I'm wondering about is how much the slop/ratcheting action in a> detroit locker effects general driving with a *manual* transmission. Do> you really notice the extra backlash when shifting. Like say you gas it> and then let off, does it kinda free-wheel for a second then go 'clunk'?>> Some other questions. Ok, imagine you are driving in the following
On a previous truck (87 Samy) I had lock-rights front and rear and every
time I let off the gas (like every shift) the rear of the truck would
shift to the right and when I got back on the gas it would shift back to
the left. Do you notice this or is the Samy just too lite?
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 13:57:53 -0800
From: Scott Wilson Subject: detroit
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
First off, some who knows, please correct me if I'm wrong. A lot of
this is my best guesses as to what is happening, I've only been driving
on a detroit for two full days now. SW
Jonathan Albrecht wrote:> One thing I'm wondering about is how much the slop/ratcheting action in a> detroit locker effects general driving with a *manual* transmission. Do> you really notice the extra backlash when shifting. Like say you gas it> and then let off, does it kinda free-wheel for a second then go 'clunk'?
No. The only I do notice a difference when your on the gas and then
suddenly let off (no clutch). You now that you're gonna get a bump not
matter what diff you have. I notice the bump is just a little (I do
mean little) harder due to the 1/4 turn of slop in the driveshaft.> Let's say you start from a stop and immediatly turn (like from a 4 way> stop and you want to go right). Let's say your in a hurry, and you really> gas it off the line and around the corner. What happens?
In fact I asked someone this same question yesterday 'cause I wasn't
sure if mine was behaving normal. I'm a lead foot, but since I got the
locker I've been driving what I consider light while I get used to it.
When I do what you described, my inside wheel slips (probably would if I
had the open diff too), the outside wheel ends up with all the traction,
and sorta drags the inside wheel along. (Sounds like I'm peeling out,
but the wheel is barely going slower than the other)
The answer is that I'm gasing it too much. I need to let off the
throtle and retain traction on the inside wheel.
or
if you don't care about a little bit of noise, stomp on it! The rear
will lock up and you'll be off! There's gonna be a little noise off the
tires as they make the turn at the same speed, but so what. ;) But if
your in a situation that you don't what to make any noise and draw
attention (i.e. police car sitting behind you) you're just gonna have
to take off extra slow.>> Next, let's say you approach a 90 degree turn off at 30mph or so, and> quick downshift into 2nd, and swing around the corner fast/hard. What's> it do? (I know, I know, this isn't real safe, but sometimes I like to do> that).
Been there. Done that. Behaves pretty normal. All depends on if the
locker is locked up in the turn or not. If it is, its not like your
gonna crash or anything (well, don't quote me on that, I don't know how
you drive :) ) You're gonna get some tire noise again though cause the
tires are turning around a turn both going the same speed.> Let's say your are downtown, and trying toparrallel parking on a steep> hill. Is it any worse than usual? (like it's not hard enough already!)
Should be pretty normal.>> If you are trying to accelerate fast on a sharp turning, steep on-ramp,> how does it react?
This is kinda the same deal as taking off from the stop sign. If you
loose traction on that inside wheel it gonna lock up on you. Then
- -suddenly- the outside wheel is driving. This is why some people
consider lockers dangerous on slick roads. If you got a sudden change
like this on a slick road it could cause you to fish tail.
Lockers aren't dangerous because of this. You just need to realize
you're driving on slick roads with a locker, and need to drive
appropriately. If you're being gentle with the throtle, and not
purposely giving your rear end a chance to slip out from behind you,
then your chances of slipping out are the same as if you were driving
with an open diff.
I've gotta say though, I'm REALLY impressed with the traction I get from
this thing. I took it to a hill last night that I've always had to be
in 4WD to get over, and usually still have some slipping. Well last
night (now that I've got the locker) I tried it in 2WD. Crawled right
over, didn't slip a bit. That got me really excited! I hadn't planned
to take it anywhere this week, but since last night I've just had a bug
to go try it out some more. I'm taking tomorrow afternoon off and
heading to Hollister Hills. Anyone what to go? I'll be there from
about 12:30-sunset.
Hope this answered your questions,
Scott
- --
*****************************************************
Scott Wilson TLCA #5261
88 4Runner SR5 V6
Santa Clara, CA
http://users.uniserve.com/~rcomber/scottw/scottw.htm
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 14:18:56 -0800
From: Scott Wilson Subject: detroit
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org> On a previous truck (87 Samy) I had lock-rights front and rear and every> time I let off the gas (like every shift) the rear of the truck would> shift to the right and when I got back on the gas it would shift back to> the left. Do you notice this or is the Samy just too lite?
I do notice my 4Runner pulls to the left just a bit when I'm on the
gas. I thought is was my tires (I rotated them the same day as I got
the detroit in). It's not bad though. Maybe the extra weight help me.
Scott
- --
*****************************************************
Scott Wilson TLCA #5261
88 4Runner SR5 V6
Santa Clara, CA
http://users.uniserve.com/~rcomber/scottw/scottw.htm
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 22:58:05 -0600 (CST)
From: gfrancis@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (Greg S. Francis)
Subject: detroit
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
I have a Detroit Soflocker in my rear diff, so I'll take a crack at a
couple of your questions.>Some other questions. Ok, imagine you are driving in the following>situations with a locker/manual tranny. What happens/what's the truck do>differently:>>Let's say you start from a stop and immediatly turn (like from a 4 way>stop and you want to go right). Let's say your in a hurry, and you really>gas it off the line and around the corner. What happens?
Inside wheel get all the power and chirps around the corner.>>Next, let's say you approach a 90 degree turn off at 30mph or so, and>quick downshift into 2nd, and swing around the corner fast/hard. What's>it do? (I know, I know, this isn't real safe, but sometimes I like to do>that).
If you downshift *before* the corner, probably nothing. If you downshift
*in* the turn, it (locker) will open when you clutch it and reingage
(clunk) when you let out the clutch.>>Let's say your are downtown, and trying toparrallel parking on a steep>hill. Is it any worse than usual? (like it's not hard enough already!)
Not really, the only time it affects this sort of situation is when you
change the direction of your turn while still under power. Torque is what
causes the locker to engage.>>If you are trying to accelerate fast on a sharp turning, steep on-ramp,>how does it react?
Same chirping of the inside tire, should be no loss of control.
Overall, once I got used to mine, I found it to be easy to control. The
principle here is outlined in the manual- adding power while the wheels are
spinning at different rates will cause the locker to engage. You can
actually make an easy turn without adding power (accelerating) and the
locker will behave like an open diff. I was concerned about the effects of
the locker on wet roads, but once I learned to drive w/ it, I found it
presents no problem at all.
Disclaimer- If you do not take above advice, it can bite you in the a$$.
It will spin you off a wet road if you don't respect it.
Hope this helps, and remember this applies to a Soflocker, I hear the older
ones are mor vicious.
- -Greg
Greg S. Francis
University of Texas @ Austin
School of Architecture
gfrancis@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 11:04:53 -0500
From: john skaggs Subject: Diff Breathers
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
To anyone that may be doing the Diff Breather changeover, using Ni$$an parts.
Here in Ohio there is not a very large selection of Japanese junk yards
(see they do last longer), so I went to the dealer for the part, I had a hard
time finding a person at the counter that was smarter than the counter:-)
But ayway here is the part # 38323-C6010. These fit perfectly, on my 85 4Runner
solid axle. Don't know about IFS.
Hope this can help someone.
Oh, the price for these was $ 4.00 each
John Skaggs
TLCA # waiting
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 13:20:21 -0700
From: nickkrest@batnet.com (Nick Krest)
Subject: Front driveshaft mods
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
I just pulled the 3-degree shims out from under my front springs and stuck
in some 1" longer than stock shackles. Now I've got a front driveshaft
problem, or, more correctly, some front shaft problems.
#1: Front U-joint contacts itself (too much angle) when spinning.
Possible solutions? a) put in a double-Cardan joint (like in the rear) to
replace the front U-joint (halves the joint angle). b) go to town and put
in a Marlin Crawler (the flavor that bolts to the back of my existing
t-case), lengthening the shaft, thereby alleviating the extreme shaft
angle.
Ideas, comments, suggestions?
#2 Front shaft now too short; looks like slip-yoke is gonna slip right out
and leave me with a show truck.
Possible solutions? a) bite the bullet and have a shop lengthen the shaft
(putting in the double-Cardan joint at the same time). b) go with the
Marlin and HAVE to lengthen the shaft. c) all of the above.
Ideas, comments, suggestions? Any of you solid-axle high-riders have any
tips, tricks, nifty stories before I haul out my checkbook?
- Nick
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 15:58:37 -0800 (PST)
From: Jonathan Albrecht Subject: Front driveshaft mods
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
On Thu, 27 Mar 1997, Nick Krest wrote:> I just pulled the 3-degree shims out from under my front springs and stuck> in some 1" longer than stock shackles. Now I've got a front driveshaft> problem, or, more correctly, some front shaft problems.>> #1: Front U-joint contacts itself (too much angle) when spinning.>> Possible solutions? a) put in a double-Cardan joint (like in the rear) to> replace the front U-joint (halves the joint angle). b) go to town and put> in a Marlin Crawler (the flavor that bolts to the back of my existing> t-case), lengthening the shaft, thereby alleviating the extreme shaft> angle.>> Ideas, comments, suggestions?
I haven't worked on solid axles, but I have a few questions/thoughts:
First question: How much lift are you running?
On the IFS trucks, they usually have a double carden on the front
driveshaft (at the t-case end), and just single (normal) u-joints on the
rear driveshaft (both ends).
Anyway, the double carden that was on my front driveshaft couldn't handle
much angle. Maybe 10 degrees each way (this is a guess). I didn't measure
it, but when I had my front 'shaft off, I noticed that it couldn't run at
much angle at all (at least 1/2 of what the front u-joint could do).
Next thought: If you run a double carden on your front shaft (assuming
you want to be able to run 4wd at highway speeds) then you can *not* run
any angle in the u-joint at the other end. It would need to be pointing
directly at the t-case.
Basically, if you run a u-joint at an angle, and if one end is spinning at
a constant rate, then the other end of the u-joint will go through a
'sine' wave pattern of slowing down and speeding up. This is why you get
vibrations when u-joints aren't at *exactly* the same angle/phase. If you
run a double carden, then regardless of the angle that it runs at the two
u-joints within the double carden cancel out this sine wave accel/deccel.
Therefor, you would need to either run double cardens at both ends (at
any angle), a double carden at one end (with the u-joint at the other end
at zero angle), or u-joints at both ends at identical angles.
Another comment: I've heard that you can run double cardens at both ends
of a driveshaft, but I've never personally seen it, and it sure seems like
it wouldn't work.
One more comment: Typically lift kits will include shims or tapered
blocks to 'aim' the diff at the t-case. This will result in no angle at
the rear u-joint, and a certain angle at the t-case one. Assuming both
joints are u-joints (and they usually are) then in theory you should get
some vibration. But often enough you don't. this is mostly because when
the diff was rotated up, despite the lift kit, the t-case u-joint angle is
reduced some, and in many cases you just don't notice the vibration. I
guess it's more due to luck and drivetrain slop than anything though.
That's my guess anyway.
Jonathan Albrecht
albr9619@uidaho.edu
http://www.uidaho.edu/~albr9619/
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 10:20:19 -0800
From: Gary H Subject: Good Battery?
To: RogersJ@tpd.eds.com
In toy.digest, you wrote:
|My question is, are these "Interstate" batteries any good? I have absolutely
|no experience with them. Should I have bought the Toyota battery?
Interstate is a good brand and their batteries are tops. They are OEM
for BMW. I've have one in my BMW for 5 years. I drained it completely
dead twice for over a week and it is still going strong.
Gary
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 09:17:46 -0800 (PST)
From: " Jared Rogers" Subject: Head gasket.. Toyota -VS- Ford
To: bruceb@austx.tandem.com, Toy4x4@tlca.org>> Unfortunately, Toyota's truck quality severely sunk when they started
building>> them in the US in 1994. Nobody can guarantee that you won't have any more>>>Ummm, since the 3.4L is manufactured in Japan, what does this> have to do with where the body is manufactured, and where the> components are assembled into a truck?
I was making a general statement about the overall quality of the newer trucks
- -vs- the older truck. I've owned both, so I've seen the difference. I was not
speaking of the engine in general, although several list members with the new
3.4l engine are getting their head gaskets replaced at less than 20k miles.
That in itself doesn't speak to well for their engine quality.>> problem. As a matter of fact, I think you WILL have more problems. I try to>>>Aside from possible head gasket problems, I do not see> how you can say things like this.
You simply cannot make a statement that a vehicle will NOT have problem. That's
how I can say things like that. Every vehicle has problems. Fortunately, the
magnitude of the problems with Toyota vehicles is significantly less than that
of any other manufacturer. However, it is naieve to assume that ANY vehicle
won't have any problems.
Jared Rogers
1989 Toyota 4x4 DX X-CAB V6
1990 Toyota Celica GT-S
1991 Toyota 4runner SR5 4WD V6
- ---------------------------------------------------------
Get Your *Web-Based* Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
- ---------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 19:22:22 -0700
From: "Colin Learning" Subject: How low do you go?
To: I have 33" Yokohama Mud Diggers on 15x10 steel wheels. This is my third
set and I have finally got them to wear properly. In my case, around town
I run 15psi in the fronts and 10psi in the rear. Off road I air down to
4-5-psi up front and 2-3psi in the rear. I found this to work great as the
truck can't go over 80KM anyways and I have never had a tire come off a
bead (touch wood). If I do have to go on the highway for a long trip I
might air up to 20psi.
Colin Learning
clearning@ccinet.ab.ca
85 Toy X-Cab, 4.3 LT.,ARB front, LSD rear
33" Yokohama Mud Diggers
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 09:02:12 -0800
From: Scott Wilson Subject: Keith w/91 4Runner
To: Toy 4x4 List I was just looking at the web page Brian made up for people on this
list. http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/3481/index.html I wanted to
ask Keith _______ how he liked his Bridgestone Dueler Mud Terrains, but
his address is not listed. So...Keith if you're out there, what do you
think of those tires? Do you know how they compare with the BFG MT's?
Thanks,
Scott
- --
*****************************************************
Scott Wilson TLCA #5261
88 4Runner SR5 V6
Santa Clara, CA
http://users.uniserve.com/~rcomber/scottw/scottw.htm
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 12:46:03 -0500 (EST)
From: TXPakRat@aol.com
Subject: Manual Tranny
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
I have a '90 4Runner SR5 V6 with the manual 5speed. I change the tranny,
xfer case, and diff fluids as recommended, check them regularly, and use
synthetics. At about 45,000 I had to have 3rd gear and the synchro replaced
(under warranty) because of grinding when downshifting. Over the last few
months, I have noticed that shifting is getting kind of stiff and notchy. It
is not really grinding, but you can feel it catch as it goes into gear. It
is especially noticable in 1st, 2nd, and 3rd. It seems to clear up (but not
completely) once the tranny is warm. On cold days I have to force it into
1st (downshifting with the clutch on the floor) and it feels like it is
binding. To avoid this, when the weather is cold, I come to a compete sto
before down shifting into 1st. First has always been tight in cold weather,
but it seems to be worse. I changed the fluids less than 5,000 miles ago (I
am just getting ready to turn 80K), but it didn't seem to help. When they
worked on my tranny at 45,000, they only replaced 3rd and the 3rd synchro.
They did not replace anything on the clutch. Does it sound like I need to
have the clutch worked on? I don't work on my tranny, xfer case, diffs, or
drive shafts other than fluids (note another thread, I also don't do my own
brakes!). I am not a mechanic and don't have the expertise (or time) to
delve that deep. If it sounds like my clutch needs work, what could be the
problem and how much do you think it would run (I am on a tight budget . . .
taking the family to Disney World this summer - driving, another reason I
want to aleviate any possible problems)?
By the way, if it helps, I have about a 1.5" to 2" lift and I am running
32's. I ran the stock 225's up to about 33,000 and then 31's up to 73,000.
I have not changed the stock 4.10 gearing in the diffs.
Thanks in advance!
Bob 'Pack Rat' Wren
TXPakRat@aol.com
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 11:07:50 -0800
From: Scott Wilson Subject: Manual Tranny
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
TXPakRat@aol.com wrote:>> I have a '90 4Runner SR5 V6 with the manual 5speed. Over the last few> months, I have noticed that shifting is getting kind of stiff and notchy. It> is not really grinding, but you can feel it catch as it goes into gear. It> is especially noticable in 1st, 2nd, and 3rd. It seems to clear up (but not> completely) once the tranny is warm. On cold days I have to force it into> 1st (downshifting with the clutch on the floor) and it feels like it is> binding. To avoid this, when the weather is cold, I come to a compete sto> before down shifting into 1st. First has always been tight in cold weather,> but it seems to be worse.
My 88 4Runner SR5 V6 behaves -exactly- as you just described. I've only
had it about 8 months, so I can't say I've every notice a change, I
agree it doesn't shift differently when it is cold. I've always assumed
it's pretty normal, I've heard other people on this with similar
complaints. I really hate the notchy shifting also, just doesn't feel
'right.'
Am I wrong, is it not normal?
Scott
- --
*****************************************************
Scott Wilson TLCA #5261
88 4Runner SR5 V6
Santa Clara, CA
http://users.uniserve.com/~rcomber/scottw/scottw.htm
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 12:53:20 -0800 (PST)
From: Jonathan Albrecht Subject: Manual Tranny
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
On Thu, 27 Mar 1997 TXPakRat@aol.com wrote:> (under warranty) because of grinding when downshifting. Over the last few> months, I have noticed that shifting is getting kind of stiff and notchy. It> is not really grinding, but you can feel it catch as it goes into gear. It> is especially noticable in 1st, 2nd, and 3rd. It seems to clear up (but not> completely) once the tranny is warm. On cold days I have to force it into> 1st (downshifting with the clutch on the floor) and it feels like it is
My tranny on my old truck (1987, 22r, 130k) felt like that too. I think
it was the syncro's.> binding. To avoid this, when the weather is cold, I come to a compete sto> before down shifting into 1st. First has always been tight in cold weather,> but it seems to be worse. I changed the fluids less than 5,000 miles ago (I> am just getting ready to turn 80K), but it didn't seem to help. When they
Yeah, same here.> worked on my tranny at 45,000, they only replaced 3rd and the 3rd synchro.> They did not replace anything on the clutch. Does it sound like I need to> have the clutch worked on? I don't work on my tranny, xfer case, diffs, or> drive shafts other than fluids (note another thread, I also don't do my own> brakes!).
No, it wouldn't be your clutch. It could be that it's not fully releasing
(this can be adjusted at the pedal, up under the dash), or that the pilot
bearing isn't as smooth as it used to be.
The pilot bearing is the one that sits inside the flywheel, and allows the
input shaft (from the tranny) to spin at a different speed than the
flywheel, If this bearing is going out, then it can make shifting harder.
The good news: It's cheap (like 5 bucks)
The bad news: you gotta pull the tranny and clutch to get to it, and it's
a pain to remove once you do get to it.
When I did my clutch, I checked my pilot bearing, and found that it wasn't
quite as easy to spin as I'd like, so I did replace it. Between replacing
that, changing the tranny fluid (again), and re-adjusting the clutch pedal
(including removing the bump stop so I could get even more travel) I found
that it shifted a little better, but still wasn't as smooth as I'd like.
That's why I think it was probably just bad syncro's.
When it's hard to downshift, the best thing to do is a 'double clutch'.
That's where you shift into neutral, let out the clutch, rev the engine,
push in the clutch, and quick shift the tranny into first. It takes a bit
of getting used to, but once you get the hang of it, you don't even need
syncro's. (I learned how to do this on my jeep, and even though it didn't
have a syncro first, I could downshift into first at even 15mph, which was
just about redline 1st) This is also better for the tranny.> By the way, if it helps, I have about a 1.5" to 2" lift and I am running> 32's. I ran the stock 225's up to about 33,000 and then 31's up to 73,000.> I have not changed the stock 4.10 gearing in the diffs.
Shouldn't make much difference. I know this isn't what you want to here,
but it's probably your syncro's.
Jonathan Albrecht
albr9619@uidaho.edu
http://www.uidaho.edu/~albr9619/
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 13:33:50 -0800 (PST)
From: " Jared Rogers" Subject: Manual Tranny (Solution)
To: TXPakRat@aol.com, Toy4x4@tlca.org> I have a '90 4Runner SR5 V6 with the manual 5speed. I change the tranny,>xfer case, and diff fluids as recommended, check them regularly, and use>synthetics. At about 45,000 I had to have 3rd gear and the synchro replaced>(under warranty) because of grinding when downshifting. Over the last few>months, I have noticed that shifting is getting kind of stiff and notchy. It>is not really grinding, but you can feel it catch as it goes into gear. It>is especially noticable in 1st, 2nd, and 3rd. It seems to clear up (but not>completely) once the tranny is warm.
The Problem:
I don't want to start a big argument here, but I've been told by severl
mechanics and one service advisor at the dealer, that Synthetic oil is VERY bad
for the Synchros. Why? Not enough friction. By nature, the Synchros need a
certain amount of friction to work properly. Synthetic oil is too slick and
thus the Synchros are not allowed to easily help change gears. I have tested
this extensively, myself. When I first bought my 89 truck it shifted fine. I
promptly changed the transmission oil to synthetic. It began to shift horrible
when it was cold - a little better when it warmed up, but it wouldn't downshift
to the lower gears at all! I went around and around with Mobil Oil corporation
about this problem. They swear that there is no possible way that their oil
could cause a vehicle to shift improperly. However, they accidently admitted
that their test are based on viscosity and oil ratings rather than "Real-World"
tests. They even admitted that they have NEVER tried their synthetic juice in a
Toyota transmission. I even went to far as to send them a sample of the oil
from my transmission. They said that they found traces of zinc in the oil which
is an indication of syncho wear. However, they said that it must be caused by a
problem with my transmission.
My Solution:
At the recommendation of a mechanic and the entire Eagle Talon/Mitsubishi
Eclipse mailing list (Mitsubihi has horribly notchy shifters and these guys
figured out a work-around), I drained a quart of oil out of my transmission and
installed 1qt of GM SynchroMesh (about $10/qt from your local Chevy dealer).
Voilla! Problem solved. Truck shifts decent now and I can downshift again.
(I've never driven ANY Toyota truck that shifted "that great") Now, my truck
will even pop right into reverse without grinding! Imagine that!
Moral of the story:
Don't use synthetic oil in the tranny unless you put an additive in like GM
Synchromesh. Supposedly, Redline MTL is good and has additives in it already.
I've never tried this stuff, though. Synthetic oil is WONDERFUL in the
differentials and transfer case, however. After installing the Mobil 1 in the
transfer case, the truck more easily shifts into 4WD and the shift lever
doesn't get near as hot. The Synthetic oil is good in the front differential
because it wont turn to "mud" like conventional oil when you don't use the 4WD
for a long time. (When I drained the front differential, it was like draining
thick paint!)
Hope this helps someone!
Jared Rogers
1989 Toyota 4x4 DX X-CAB V6
1990 Toyota Celica GT-S
1991 Toyota 4runner SR5 4WD V6
- ---------------------------------------------------------
Get Your *Web-Based* Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
- ---------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 16:42:10 -0600
From: "Michael Rowe" Subject: Manual Tranny (Solution)
To: > I have a '90 4Runner SR5 V6 with the manual 5speed. I change the
tranny,>xfer case, and diff fluids as recommended, check them regularly, and use>synthetics. At about 45,000 I had to have 3rd gear and the synchro
replaced>(under warranty) because of grinding when downshifting. Over the last
few>months, I have noticed that shifting is getting kind of stiff and notchy.
It>is not really grinding, but you can feel it catch as it goes into gear.
It>is especially noticable in 1st, 2nd, and 3rd. It seems to clear up (but
not>completely) once the tranny is warm.
All the mechanics I've worked with or known that use synthetic told me to
always use conventional petroleum products for about 6 to 10 thousand miles
as a break in before switching to synthetic. I worked at a Sea Ray boat
dealership that pushed Amsoil and the Amsoil Rep said the same thing.
Michael Rowe
'88 4Runner
m.rowe@mail.utexas.edu
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 16:03:02 -0800 (PST)
From: Jonathan Albrecht Subject: Manual Tranny (Solution)
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
On Thu, 27 Mar 1997, Jared Rogers wrote:> this extensively, myself. When I first bought my 89 truck it shifted fine. I> promptly changed the transmission oil to synthetic. It began to shift horrible> when it was cold - a little better when it warmed up, but it wouldn't downshift> to the lower gears at all! I went around and around with Mobil Oil corporation> about this problem. They swear that there is no possible way that their oil
Which type of Mobile sythetic do you use in your tranny's/diffs
specifically?
Would you reccommend them?
thanks,
Jonathan Albrecht
albr9619@uidaho.edu
http://www.uidaho.edu/~albr9619/
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 11:39:17 MST7MDT
From: "Alan Anderson" Subject: motor swap...used to be toy4x4digestv1#110
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
From: Jack Alford (The Administrator)
Sent: Wednesday, March 26, 1997 2:32 AM
To: toy4x4-dlist@unix.off-road.com
Subject: Toy4x4 Digest V1 #110
Dear Jack, or someone who can help me,
Hey guys I came across an opportunity to buy a 4.3L from a 95 Astro
VanAWD,
with an automatic transmission. For a while now, I've been looking
foward to
do a motor swap on my 1980 toyota 20R-4speed, shortbox. I'm pretty
much aware
of the risks envolved, and I'm decided I want to make the swap on my
little
toy, but I have a problem about this motor. The deal I've got on
this engine
is that, I get everything necessary for the convdersion, Motor, Wire
harness,
and computer and fuel lines, and pump, but I'm not sure if I can use
the
transmission that is attached to this engine, one because I don't
know what
transmission the Astro van AWD uses, secondly, is because the
computer
supposedly controls the tranny as well so If I want to use a
different Tranny,
Will it work with the engine? How about the adaptor for my Toyota
Transfercase, will it just bolt on to this tranny?
I want to know what are your suggestions with what I have as far as
do I want
to get another Tranny, or keep the one that came with the motor. One
thing I
know my 4-speed toyota tranny is garbage, so I'm not using it.
Please give me a hand here, to anybody out there that has done this
, or know
what needs to be done in order for this engine to work on my little
toyota,
and if possible point me to a specialized truck-conversion parts'
store that I
could buy the necessary parts for this conversion.
I'm very appreciative of all your help,
Steve Kirschner, Seattle, WA.
Talk to LC enginering, Downey and Advanced Addapters they all ofer
kits to swap motors into toys.....E-mail me for more info.....or talk
to jay he might be able to better help you...I think it was him who
swaped in a 4.3 ?
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 12:27:47 -0800 (PST)
From: Jonathan Albrecht Subject: None
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org> I have been told that the Toyota oil filters have a check valve in them so> that oil is kept in the filter. This is supposed to allow the oil to flow> to the top end sooner than other filters. I want to do all that I can to> preserve my 22RE, so I use Toyota oil filters. The down side to using a> Toyota oil filter is the price ($9.65).>> Does anyone know of a cheaper source (mail order?) or an equivalent? Thank> you for any information.
I know a year ago or so I saw some place that in the back of the magazines
that advertised all kinds of toyota parts. I think they sold cases of oil
filters (Toyota) too. Anybody remember an add like this? I couldn't find
it in any magazines.
I did find one add in the back of 4wheeler though, advertises:
- ---------
TOYOTA
GENUINE PARTS
*Bring us a price to beat!
*Oil Filters from $3.50
METRO TOYOTA
800-581-3033
- ----------
That's just what the add says, and I've never dealt with these guys in any
way, shape, or form.
One thing though. Somebody had mentioned that toyota just sells cheapo
filters now (same price though). Is this still the case?
Jonathan Albrecht
albr9619@uidaho.edu
http://www.uidaho.edu/~albr9619/
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 06:36:00 -0500
From: "R. W. 'Butch' Stiles" Subject: None
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Roubinet, Paul @ SLG wrote:>> I have been told that the Toyota oil filters have a check valve in them so> that oil is kept in the filter.
You're paying 10 bucks for a toyota filter ? Fram filters have had this
same feature for YEARS. I get 'em 2.50 apiece at Walmart !!
Don't believe me ? Come clean up the mess on the engine and front diff
the next time I change the oil. Hope I've been some help.
Butch Stiles
rokitman@erols.com
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 22:38:03 -0600
From: Steve Capuano Subject: None
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Pure B.S. They are that price for two in Houston. Call Jeff at Jay Marks
in Houston after you get your TLCA # and he will hook you up even cheaper.
Also, you can do what I did. Trash a CV boot under warranty and have the
dealership hold your truck 4 hours and say "OH we don't have one! There is
not any in town!", call Jay Marks.."WE GOT TWO, how many you want!!"
Bitch moan and groan, have them f**k your lug nuts up with their rim
cleaning solution, get pissed to no end, and finally end up with 24 new lug
nuts, 4 new center pieces for rims, and 4 free oil filters.
Whew...got me all hot again.
Steve C.
At 08:07 AM 3/27/97 mst, you wrote:>>>I have been told that the Toyota oil filters have a check valve in them so>that oil is kept in the filter. This is supposed to allow the oil to flow>to the top end sooner than other filters. I want to do all that I can to>preserve my 22RE, so I use Toyota oil filters. The down side to using a>Toyota oil filter is the price ($9.65).>>Does anyone know of a cheaper source (mail order?) or an equivalent? Thank>you for any information.>> ------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 21:30:01 -0800 (PST)
From: Jonathan Albrecht Subject: None
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
On Thu, 27 Mar 1997, Steve Capuano wrote:> Also, you can do what I did. Trash a CV boot under warranty and have the
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
How'd you do that?
Jonathan Albrecht
albr9619@uidaho.edu
http://www.uidaho.edu/~albr9619/
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 08:47:46 -0800
From: Scott Wilson Subject: Oil Filters
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org, PAULR@tcs.lmco.com
Roubinet, Paul @ SLG wrote:>> I have been told that the Toyota oil filters have a check valve in them so> that oil is kept in the filter. This is supposed to allow the oil to flow> to the top end sooner than other filters. I want to do all that I can to> preserve my 22RE, so I use Toyota oil filters. The down side to using a> Toyota oil filter is the price ($9.65).
REALLY! My dealer (Stevens Creek Toyota, Santa Clara, CA) sells 'em
for only about $4. This is for the V6, I don't know about the 4 cyl,
but I wouldn't think it'd be much different.
Scott
- --
*****************************************************
Scott Wilson TLCA #5261
88 4Runner SR5 V6
Santa Clara, CA
http://users.uniserve.com/~rcomber/scottw/scottw.htm
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 11:17:55 -0600
From: Galen Sinkey Subject: Oil Filters
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org>> I have been told that the Toyota oil filters have a check valve in them so>> that oil is kept in the filter. This is supposed to allow the oil to flow>> to the top end sooner than other filters. I want to do all that I can to>> preserve my 22RE, so I use Toyota oil filters. The down side to using a>> Toyota oil filter is the price ($9.65).
I'm using the Napa Gold filter (made by WIX) in my Tacoma. It has the
check valve and is supposedly better built than the OEM Toyota filter, and
costs a lot less (approx $4).
I heard a while back that the OEM Toyota filters were actually produced by
Purolater, and their quality wasn't really all that great. To be honest, I
don't know for sure if its true or not, but I've always known that I can
trust WIX filters, so I get mine from Napa every time.
I know what you mean about wanting to preserve your equipment. I also use
Mobil 1 5w30 synth every 3K miles, and swapped out my transmission,
transfer case, and diff lubes to Redline synthetic. Not only will this
help preserve my truck, but it also gave me a very marginal boost in
performance and gas mileage.
- -- Galen Sinkey
gsinkey@inav.net
(95.5 Tacoma 4X4 SR5 V6, 5 spd, 31s)
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 16:37:06 -0600
From: "Michael Rowe" Subject: Oil Filters
To: > I have been told that the Toyota oil filters have a check valve in them
so> that oil is kept in the filter. This is supposed to allow the oil to
flow> to the top end sooner than other filters. I want to do all that I can
to> preserve my 22RE, so I use Toyota oil filters. The down side to using
a> Toyota oil filter is the price ($9.65).
My personal choice is FRAM PH3639. I buy them at Pep Boys. It is a double
capacity oil filter. It is approx. twice as long as the "tea cup" filter
that is spec'd for the 3VZE engine (3.0 V6). They are harder to find and
more expensive but it's worth it for the extra filtering action. I believe
they have the rubber flap check valve in it. Not positive but will check in
about two weeks when I change it. BTW the filter can be removed without
dropping the skid plate, it just takes a little practice aligning the tie
rods and snaking your arm in there.
Michael Rowe
'88 4Runner
m.rowe@mail.utexas.edu
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 16:09:41 -0800 (PST)
From: Jonathan Albrecht Subject: Oil Filters
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org> My personal choice is FRAM PH3639. I buy them at Pep Boys. It is a double> capacity oil filter. It is approx. twice as long as the "tea cup" filter> that is spec'd for the 3VZE engine (3.0 V6). They are harder to find and> more expensive but it's worth it for the extra filtering action. I believe> they have the rubber flap check valve in it. Not positive but will check in
Which filter does Fram reccomend for the V6? (Just wondering if that
larger one will work on the 22r* too)
Jonathan Albrecht
albr9619@uidaho.edu
http://www.uidaho.edu/~albr9619/
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 20:24:40 EST
From: jeff4cars@juno.com (Jeffrey Samler D Samler)
Subject: passing inspection
To: toy4X4@tlca.org
I just bought a 1989 SR5 V6 4X4 with 35/12.5-15 Dunlop Radial Rover tires
mounted on American Racing 15x8 wheels. It has a 4 inch Trailmaster
lift, a 3 inch body lift, and aftermarket fender flares. The tires
stick out about 2 inches or less past the flares. Some of my friends are
concerned that I might not pass inspection because the tires stick out
too far. Has anyone had experience putting their truck with big tires
through inspection? Should I be concerned? I also heard I will have to
take a tip over test. Is this true? I live in New Jersey, whether that
makes a difference or not. I would greatly appreciate any help anyone
could give me.
Jeff
Jeff4cars@juno.com
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 18:06:28 -0800 (PST)
From: Chris Geiger Subject: passing inspection
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org> take a tip over test.
What is a tip over test and if you fail do you leave with dents?
Chris Geiger http://home1.gte.net/cgeiger/offroad.html
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 11:20:51 -0800
From: Scott Wilson Subject: Please!!
To: Toy 4x4 List I know others have made this request before, but now it's my turn.
Please think about what your sending in. It is not necessary to quote
the ENTIRE post you're replying to, when what you're saying only applies
to a small portion of it, or even just the title! We've already seen
the original post in it's entirety, we don't need to see it again.
I'm climbing down off my soap box now.
Scott
- --
*****************************************************
Scott Wilson TLCA #5261
88 4Runner SR5 V6
Santa Clara, CA
http://users.uniserve.com/~rcomber/scottw/scottw.htm
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 02:40:46 -0500
From: WartHog Subject: Please!!
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Scott Wilson wrote:>> I know others have made this request before, but now it's my turn.> Please think about what your sending in. It is not necessary to quote> the ENTIRE post you're replying to,
>> I'm climbing down off my soap box now.>> Scott
Jeez, Scott. The lack of editing is a real pain foisted on us by the
lazy and/or inept poster.
Usually, when I come acrost sucah a message its ZZZIP .. Into the can
(Trash Bin for the Lame Brains).
After all, If ones not Bright enough to learn how to use an editor (
Easy thing to learn ) and compose a real message, then what vallidity in
anyother subject could they possess?
I guess this is what we get with Plug and Play. ;(
Mark
rheschel@bright.net
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 12:46:02 -0500 (EST)
From: TXPakRat@aol.com
Subject: Rancho brake pads and shoes
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
I don't know of anyone who has used them, but I would like to konw if
they are good, too! I would also like to know if anyone knows anything about
the Rancho vented disk brake rotors. They are 'drilled out' to provide
better heat disappation. I am thinking about having the Rancho rotors, pads,
and shoes mounted the next time I have some brake work done (I am too chicken
to work on the brakes myself, although I do just about everything else!).
Bob 'Pack Rat' Wren
TXPakRat@aol.com
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 10:57:57 -0800
From: Scott Wilson Subject: Rancho brake pads and shoes
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
TXPakRat@aol.com wrote:>=20> I don't know of anyone who has used them, but I would like to konw=
if> they are good, too! I would also like to know if anyone knows anything=
about> the Rancho vented disk brake rotors. They are 'drilled out' to provide> better heat disappation. I am thinking about having the Rancho rotors,=
pads,> and shoes mounted the next time I have some brake work done (I am too c=
hicken> to work on the brakes myself, although I do just about everything else!=
).
I haven't used the Rancho stuff, so I can't help you there. But, I
currently have PowerStop rotors with Metal Master pads (they were
recommended in the PowerStop literature). I would recommend PowerStop
rotors. I been using them about 4 months now, and I'm still very
pleased. In fact I had my wheels off two nights ago, and I took a look
at the rotors/pads. They're both wearing great, very little wear, very
smooth flat rotors. These rotor are also Annodised (spelling?) so they
look really impressive too. =20
A big selling point on these rotors is the they are drilled holes do not
have 90=B0 angles that would cut though your pad quicker, they have a
smooth curve from the surface of the rotor into the hole. I'll try and
draw a picture of what I mean below. The advange of this is your pads
will go A LOT further. I bought them through Performance Products, the
pads I bought at the place that installed them. =20
Just a straight hole This one is drilled different
They must use some kinda counter
sink
______ ________ ______ _______
| | | \ / |
| | rotor | | rotor=20
hole surface hole surface
Scott=09
- --=20
*****************************************************
Scott Wilson TLCA #5261
88 4Runner SR5 V6
Santa Clara, CA
http://users.uniserve.com/~rcomber/scottw/scottw.htm
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 09:39:36 -0700
From: Hans Magleby Subject: remove from mailing list
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
please remove me from this mailing list
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 12:46:00 -0500 (EST)
From: TXPakRat@aol.com
Subject: Special order Taco, tire question
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
First, let me say that I don't think that 'problem" 2 is a negative.
Cruise control is convenient for long trips and long commuting.
Now, on to your tire question! Keep in mind that every manufacturer has
different standards and techniques. That means that every tire listed as
31x1050x? will vary in actual height from about 29 inches to about 31 inches
and 9.0 to 10.5 inches in width (taken at the widest part of the tire, not
necessarily at the tread). Tire height and width will even be affected by
the size of the rim that you put it on. A 31x1050 put on a 15x7 will be
different in width and height than the exact same tire put on a 15x8 or a
15x10 rim! Tire pressure will also affect the 'loaded' height of a tire . .
. the more psi, the taller the tire! So, as you can see, if someone tells
you a blanket statement that a 32x1150x15 tire won't rub, it doesn't mean
that it is true for every tire! I was told that 31x1050x15 was the largest I
could go on my (then stock) '90 4Runner without rubbing. I got AR Type 41
rims (15x8) with a standard offset (not the Toyota offset) and put 31x1150x15
Yokohama Superdigger V's on them. I lived in Colorado at the time and I
never had a rubbing problem. By the way, the front end is where you need to
worry the most because compression and turning could hit the bumper or the
rear of the wheel well. The tire shop I went to mounted different tires for
me that I was interested in and let me 'test' them. We would lift the truck
at different points and check for steering and compression rub. I took some
time off from work and hit them on a weekday during the day. It also didn't
hurt that the manager and asst. manager were both 'wheelers!'
I hope this helps!
Bob 'Pack Rat' Wren
TXPakRat@aol.com
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 07:54:40 -0500 (EST)
From: DRM033@aol.com
Subject: Toy # 2
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Well, I just wanted to announce that I am the proud new owner of an 81 SR5
(in adition to my 90 truck). The engine runs, but the tranny won't budge.
any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Also, does anybody know
anything about aluminum bodies on these things ?(I think at least the fenders
are factory aluminum)
By the way, I got it for the really high price of <> $600.
Poor me.
David
DRM033@aol.com
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 12:05:39 -0800 (PST)
From: Jonathan Albrecht Subject: Toy # 2
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
On Thu, 27 Mar 1997 DRM033@aol.com wrote:> Well, I just wanted to announce that I am the proud new owner of an 81 SR5> (in adition to my 90 truck). The engine runs, but the tranny won't budge.> any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Also, does anybody know> anything about aluminum bodies on these things ?(I think at least the fenders> are factory aluminum)>> By the way, I got it for the really high price of <> $600.>> Poor me.>> David> DRM033@aol.com
What do you mean about the tranny won't budge. Do you mean that you can't
shift it? Does neutral work, or is the whole thing seezed up?
Jonathan Albrecht
albr9619@uidaho.edu
http://www.uidaho.edu/~albr9619/
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 09:30:29 -0800
From: Eric Johnson Subject: Toyota Oil filter?
To: "'Toy4x4@tlca.org'" SKeene8194@aol.com wrote:> Also, I was shocked as to how small the Toyota filter is compared to say
a> Fram filter. Smaller filter means less filtering capacity equals shorter> filter life> and, less oil capacity.
FWIW: I think toyota specs one filter for all trucks, presumably to keep
inventories simple. They used to spec a very large filter for the 20R
engine, but with the V6, I think they needed to use a smaller filter so it
would fit in the tight engine bay, so now they spec the same small filter
on both engines. Anyways, I use the larger filter size on my 22RE. I think
the Purolator equivalent is a PH-1. Its got the same size gasket and
mounting hole, but it probably is 3 times as large by volume. Works fine
for me.
- --
- -- ej@blarg.net
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 12:09:41 -0500 (EST)
From: SKeene8194@aol.com
Subject: Toyota Oil filter? Was "None"
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
In a message dated 97-03-27 10:22:56 EST, you write:
<> Try "Browns Toyota City" 800-848-4451 They are in Glen Burnie, MD.
They carry all the dealer parts at lower prices.
I have heard the same rumor about a check valve. I think this was true of
some engines in the 70's. But possibly no longer. I recently tried the
Toy
filter again for that reason. The engine sounded dry for the first few
seconds
of running when I start it on a cold (California) day. I am running 20W-50
oil.
The Toy filter did not help that problem. I probably need a new oil pump.
Also, I was shocked as to how small the Toyota filter is compared to say a
Fram filter. Smaller filter means less filtering capacity equals shorter
filter life
and, less oil capacity.
Are there any Toyota Certified mechanics out there who know the truth about
the
oil filter check valve myth.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 09:26:30 -0800 ()
From: Linda Schroeder Subject: Transmission
To: Toy4X4@tlca.org
I am looking for a 5 speed, manual transmission for a 86 or 87 4X4 pickup
for my son. Any help out there?
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 23:30:34 +0000
From: Chris Subject: Unsubscribe
To: "Toy4x4@tlca.org" Unsubscribe
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 12:46:50 -0500
From: Carlos McCluskey Subject: Winch
To: "'Toy4x4@tlca.org'" I am looking into getting a winch for my truck ('93 4x4 std cab). I
read a few threads on this subject a few months back, but here are a few
new questions to ponder.
First: which brands are best and which size would be recommended for my
truck. Please include estimated prices and reputable places to purchase
(I'm in Denver) if possible.
Second: In the past I have simply used a "come-along" and I can attach
it to the front or rear of the truck, depending on the direction I
wanted to pull myself out. My concern is that if I mount the winch to
the front how do I pull myself out if I want to go backwards. I have
put myself into predicaments where I don't want to go any further
forward....just retreat. I have thought about mounting heavy duty
receiver hitches front and rear and fabricating a mounting plate for the
winch to attach to receiver hitches. Has anyone tried this? Any other
ideas?
Carlos McCluskey
Golden/Steamboat, CO
cmcclusk@tri.com
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 09:55:16 -0800 (PST)
From: Chris Geiger Subject: Winch
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org> I am looking into getting a winch for my truck ('93 4x4 std cab). I
I once saw a Samurai with a winch mounted in the center of the truck. He
said that he could run the cable out the front or rear. Sounds cool but
don't know how I would do it on a toy.
Chris Geiger http://home1.gte.net/cgeiger/offroad.html
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 97 08:07:00 mst
From: "Roubinet, Paul @ SLG" To: Toy4X4 I have been told that the Toyota oil filters have a check valve in them so
that oil is kept in the filter. This is supposed to allow the oil to flow
to the top end sooner than other filters. I want to do all that I can to
preserve my 22RE, so I use Toyota oil filters. The down side to using a
Toyota oil filter is the price ($9.65).
Does anyone know of a cheaper source (mail order?) or an equivalent? Thank
you for any information.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 22:47:29 -0500
From: "Keith Campbell" To: Can someone fill me in on the particulars of adding an additional fuel
tank to a 91 Runner, I heard someone mention that they are available from
Downey & NWOR. Has anyone put one of these in their truck? Where do they
mount? How many gallons do they hold? My spare tire is mounted on a tire
carrier, so there would be room under the cargo area. My truck gets about
20mpg, which is better than I could hope for, but it still leaves a lot to
be desired in terms of range! Any help will be appreciated. Thanks in
Advance,
Keith
Si VIs Pacem, Para Bellum
------------------------------
The views expressed in Toy4x4 are those of the individual authors only.
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End of Toy4x4 Digest
******************************

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