Toy4x4 Digest          Sat, 15 Mar 97 00:30:03 (HST)  Volume 1 : Issue  99
 Today's Topics:
 22RE missing? (4 msgs)
 ARB line
 Bio
 Brake Bleeding (2 msgs)
 Brake proportioning valve
 Cutting the Load Leaf
 deisel (6 msgs)
 Digest mode
 downey header (a bit long)
 Front Spring Shackles
 Front torque rod
 Good Battery?
 Header tips
 head gasket poll (2 msgs)
 Head Gasket POLL? Why not? (3 msgs)
 lift blocks (2 msgs)
 Manual hubs for A.D.D...
 Manual hubs for A.D.D. LONG (2 msgs)
 Need FJ-40 Clutch Slave Cylinder!
 None
 NWOR header (4 msgs)
 preloading torsion bars (9 msgs)
 Rear torque rod. (2 msgs)
 Skyjacker Lift
 Spring Shackles
 spring shackles... (2 msgs)
 Toy4x4 Digest V1 #98 (2 msgs)
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 ----------------------------------------------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 07:34:37 -0500 (EST)
 From: Toy4x4s@aol.com
 Subject: 22RE missing?
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org
 Attention all motorheads!!!
 I'm having a bit of a problem with my 85 4Runner 22RE engine... about a week
 ago I noticed it "missinig" or cutting out very momentarily while driving in
 the 2000 RPM range... Gauges were normal, no flickering of the tach or amps.
 then on Tuesday I took it to the car wash and really washed down the engine
 compartment... I was VERY careful not to squirt the distributor cap or wires
 or ignition module. Well it started just fine... but the "missing" problem
 was much worse... I got back to work, and then after sitting about 2 hrs I
 had to go to lunch... Well, it would not rev at all... You could push the
 accel to the floor and it would run badly and not go over 3000RPM. I decided
 to try and drive it anyhow... I couldn't get it to go up past 2500 RPM and 15
 MPH... It was running bad... I limped it back to work, and pulled the dist
 cap and wires... Absolutly DRY!!! But I did notice that the contacts on the
 rotor and cap are pitted pretty good... (I'm going to replace them next week)
 Put it all together and still didn't want to run. Well Later on when it was
 time to go home it looked grim... I have a 30 mile drive to get home. It
 started out bad, but got a bit better. And if i kept the rpm's around 3000 i
 could drive it almost normal. Well, next day, whatever had gotten wet and
 caused the problem to amplify had dried out. Now it is back to the same old
 missing in the 2000 rpm range... The wires are good. So I'm wondering if any
 of you have a clue??? It may be the dist cap and rotor being worn, but why
 would it have gotten so much worse when it was wet? the cap was dry!
 HELP!
 June Bennett TLCA 2942
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 09:36:05 EST
 From: cjgaffen@juno.com
 Subject: 22RE missing?
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 June, I'm not an expert, but ignition can cause a multitude of carb.
 problems! (That was an old shop teacher joke)  Change all those wires and
 caps, rotors, etc. Even if it STILL misses, it will be less. You have to
 remember, with worn ignition contacts, the sparks hhave to jump bigger
 gaps, which could be affected by just the HUMIDITY in the air, no less
 moisture from an engine wash. I wouldnt even be concerned until those
 parts are replaced.
 Chas
 cjgaffen@juno.com
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 14 Mar 97 08:50:00 CST
 From: Rogers_Jared  Subject: 22RE missing?
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org>I'm having a bit of a problem with my 85 4Runner 22RE engine... about a week>ago I noticed it "missinig" or cutting out very momentarily while driving in>the 2000 RPM range... Gauges were normal, no flickering of the tach or amps.>then on Tuesday I took it to the car wash and really washed down the engine>compartment... I was VERY careful not to squirt the distributor cap or wires>or ignition module. Well it started just fine... but the "missing" problem>was much worse...
 Your problem is most likely a hairline crack in the distributor cap. It could
 also be bad plug wires. I used to have an 89 2WD that had these same
 symptoms. A new set of wires cured it.
 Jared
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 07:35:11 -0800
 From: Eric Johnson  Subject: 22RE missing?
 To: "'Toy4x4@tlca.org'"  On Thursday, March 13, 1997 11:34 PM, Toy4x4s@aol.com wrote:> Attention all motorheads!!!>=20> I'm having a bit of a problem with my 85 4Runner 22RE engine... about =
 a week> ago I noticed it "missinig" or cutting out very momentarily while =
 driving in> the 2000 RPM range... Gauges were normal, no flickering of the tach or =
 amps.> then on Tuesday I took it to the car wash and really washed down the =
 engine> compartment... I was VERY careful not to squirt the distributor cap or =
 wires> or ignition module. Well it started just fine... but the "missing" =
 problem> was much worse... I got back to work, and then after sitting about 2 =
 hrs I> had to go to lunch... Well, it would not rev at all... You could push =
 the> accel to the floor and it would run badly and not go over 3000RPM. I =
 decided> to try and drive it anyhow... I couldn't get it to go up past 2500 RPM =
 and 15> MPH... It was running bad... I limped it back to work, and pulled the =
 dist> cap and wires... Absolutly DRY!!! But I did notice that the contacts =
 on the> rotor and cap are pitted pretty good... (I'm going to replace them =
 next week)> Put it all together and still didn't want to run. Well Later on when =
 it was> time to go home it looked grim... I have a 30 mile drive to get home. =
 It> started out bad, but got a bit better. And if i kept the rpm's around =
 3000 i> could drive it almost normal. Well, next day, whatever had gotten wet =
 and> caused the problem to amplify had dried out. Now it is back to the =
 same old> missing in the 2000 rpm range... The wires are good. So I'm wondering =
 if any> of you have a clue??? It may be the dist cap and rotor being worn, but =
 why> would it have gotten so much worse when it was wet? the cap was dry!
 Every time I've had such a problem, in various toyotas, its been dist =
 cap/rotor and/or spark plug wires (well, the last time I had blown a =
 head gasket. :). My guess is your wires. Change your plugs while you're =
 at it. Could also be the coil i suppose, but I've never had a coil go =
 bad in a toyota; but thats just my good luck I'm sure
 - --=20
 - - ej@blarg.net
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 15:31:48 -0600
 From: Jack Alford  Subject: ARB line
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org
 Paul wrote:>I am having an ARB air locker installed in my 90 4Runner next week.  The>question that I have is the air line that comes with the ARB good to use?> or should I get an upgraded air line?  Any advise and/or recommendations>would be appreciated.
 It's hard to get around not using the supplied ARB line as it is 8mm hose
 as are all the fittings. It is very good quality hose though, very high
 pressure hose.For extra protection I routed my lines inside 1/4 fuel line
 f&r. It cost me $20-25 in hose but gives me good piece of mind when wheeling
 in nasty terrain that could cut or tear the hose. One of my labs took a
 liking to it though and chewed it up as far they could get it to it ... ARB
 replaced
 it free of charge, they're good folks ... I'd stick with dino juice with that
 ARB. Others will say they've got X million miles with synthetic juice and no
 ARB problems but one of mine did leak and had problems and I'll count
 the synthetic juice as a part of the problem. It's molecules are just
 too small, it leaks out/into every pore of everything.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------
 Jack Alford              Off-Road.com - The best dirt on the net!
 jalford@off-road.com              http://www.off-road.com/
 Decatur, AL
 '86 Xcab Toyota Pickup -  33x12.50 BFG MT
 Solid Front Axle - Marlin Crawler - ARB's - 4.88's
 SFWDA  -  TLCA #3415  -  Rocket City Rock Crawlers
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 10:01:55 -0500 (EST)
 From: SKeene8194@aol.com
 Subject: Bio
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org
 In a message dated 97-03-14 00:59:10 EST, you write:
<> toy4x4@tlca.org
 +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
 Name: Steve Keene
 City & State: Buena Park ,  CA
 Country: U.S.A.
 E-mail address: skeene8194@aol.com
 Toyota (s) year & model: 1981 4X4 SR5 Pick-Up (Long Bed)
 Are you a TLCA Member (Y/N/Number?): Y/5414
 Age: 36
 Occupation: Security Equipment Technician
 Marital Status: M
 Hobbies: Bicycling, Hiking, Drawing, Painting, Wilderness Photography,
 Offroad.
 How did you find out about the Toyota 4x4 Mailing List: TLCA Web page.
 General info about your vehicle, self, etc.: Don't know where to start.>> ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 17:25:24 -0500
 From: Ed.Wong@astramerck.com
 Subject: Brake Bleeding
 To: "        -         (052)toy4x4 (a) tlca.org"  The easy way to remember the brake bleeding pattern is to start from
 the cylinder furterest away and work back.
 I do it with one person in the drivers seat so I can stay under the truck
 Drivers Rear
 Passenger rear
 Prop Valve
 Passenger front
 (I do the clutch at this time)
 Drivers front
 EWong
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 18:35:27 -0500
 From: WartHog  Subject: Brake Bleeding
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Ed.Wong@astramerck.com wrote:>> The easy way to remember the brake bleeding pattern is to start from> the cylinder furterest away and work back.
>> Drivers Rear> Passenger rear> Prop Valve> Passenger front> (I do the clutch at this time)> Drivers front>> EWong
 I preferr to start at the Pump (Master) and work back. That way:
 1) The components (prop valve) dont add resistance to the bleed job.
 Components add compression to the gasses in the line.
 2) I hump a minimum of "air" thru the componants, reducing unlubed wear
 and possable jamming due to the explosive nature of compressed gasses.
 Marks $0.02
 rheschel@bright.net
 www.bright.net/~rheschel
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 08:06:00 -0700
 From: nickkrest@batnet.com (Nick Krest)
 Subject: Brake proportioning valve
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Jay wrote:
 "When bleeding your brakes, there is a
 bleed screw on the prop valve that
 should be bled as well. Can't remember
 the order in which it is bled, but the
 manual describes it."
 Do it last.
 - Nick
 ------------------------------
 Date: 14 Mar 1997 09:02:52 U
 From: "Jay Kopycinski"  Subject: Cutting the Load Leaf
 To: "Toyota 4x4 List"  Subject:                              Time:  8:32 AM
 OFFICE MEMO         Cutting the Load Leaf                 Date:  3/14/97
 Steven Benson  wrote:>Has anyone tried cutting off the rear half the load leaf thus creating a>torque bar of sorts? This being so easy to do I'm interested to hear>feed back on the modification. If anyone has done this mod please>respond.
 Steve,
 My neighbor Marty recommended this idea to our friend Eric
 for his Wr*ngl*r springover to help control wrap. Sizing would
 seem to be important. You have to balance between too long
 and kinking/limiting the springs and too short which diminishes
 it usefulness.
 Also, the Rubicon Express J**p springover kit includes what
 they call their "anti-wrap spring perches". Basically these are
 perches that have about a 10" plate welded to the top to do
 exactly as you describe.
 I don't think these are as effective as a track rod, but could serve
 well on medium/stiff springs.
 _____________________________________________
 Jay Kopycinski    '85 Toylet  (ROKTOY)
 Gilbert, AZ
 ryna10@email.sps.mot.com
 http://www.netzone.com/~jayk
 Arizona Lo-Rangers 4WD Club            TLCA #3243
 _____________________________________________
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 19:22:11 -0600
 From: "Wilbur M. Yegge"  Subject: deisel
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org
 I dont know if this info. was allready made available in a previous
 issue but here goes...I want an engine swap for my 85. I was thinking
 about using a four cylinder deisel engine. I've heard of this with some
 foreign market Toy's, but never seen one firsthand. My main motivation
 for wanting to use this type of engine is for the low-rev tourque. High
 speed horsepower is for hot rods in my opinion.  The extra bottom end
 provided by a desiel may even overcome the need for lower, and
 potentially weaker gears. I have the money and motivation, just dont
 know where to start. Any Ideas? Thanks in advance.
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 16:47:39 -0800
 From: Eric Johnson  Subject: deisel
 To: "'Toy4x4@tlca.org'"  Wilbur M. Yegge wrote:> I dont know if this info. was allready made available in a previous> issue but here goes...I want an engine swap for my 85. I was thinking> about using a four cylinder deisel engine. I've heard of this with some> foreign market Toy's, but never seen one firsthand. My main motivation> for wanting to use this type of engine is for the low-rev tourque. High> speed horsepower is for hot rods in my opinion.  The extra bottom end> provided by a desiel may even overcome the need for lower, and> potentially weaker gears. I have the money and motivation, just dont> know where to start. Any Ideas? Thanks in advance.
 I've seen a few diesel toy pickups in the states, never in anything newer
 than an 83 though. You might find one cheap, because diesel has a bad rep
 in the US from a lot of bad early-80's diesel designs (from VW and GM for
 instance). You could probably find a diesel 2WD real cheap....
 - --
 - -- ej@blarg.net
 ------------------------------
 Date: Sat, 15 Mar 1997 00:14:28 -0500 (EST)
 From: DRM033@aol.com
 Subject: deisel
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 In a message dated 97-03-14 19:42:55 EST, you write:>>  I dont know if this info. was allready made available in a previous>  issue but here goes...I want an engine swap for my 85. I was thinking>  about using a four cylinder deisel engine. I've heard of this with some>  foreign market Toy's, but never seen one firsthand. My main motivation>  for wanting to use this type of engine is for the low-rev tourque. High>  speed horsepower is for hot rods in my opinion.  The extra bottom end>  provided by a desiel may even overcome the need for lower, and>  potentially weaker gears. I have the money and motivation, just dont>  know where to start. Any Ideas? Thanks in advance.> You said "money & motivation" ???
 Just a thought...
 How about a Peugot diesel from a car, using their automatic tranny.  You
 would get the diesel thing, plus some power too.  Mate that to a Ford
 divorced transfer case.  (I just thought of this, so it may be a bad idea)
 David
 DRM033@aol.com
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 21:30:39 -0800 (PST)
 From: Jonathan Albrecht  Subject: deisel
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org> You said "money & motivation" ???> Just a thought...> How about a Peugot diesel from a car, using their automatic tranny.  You> would get the diesel thing, plus some power too.  Mate that to a Ford> divorced transfer case.  (I just thought of this, so it may be a bad idea)
 Um, the Fords usually have a driver's side output.  Doesn't something else
 use a divorced case though? (like a chevy).  I know the samurai's do (and
 they even have nifty low range kits too), but I'm not sure which side the
 output is on.
 Jonathan Albrecht
 albr9619@uidaho.edu
 http://www.uidaho.edu/~albr9619/
 ------------------------------
 Date: Sat, 15 Mar 1997 01:10:45 -0500 (EST)
 From: DRM033@aol.com
 Subject: deisel
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 In a message dated 97-03-15 00:32:32 EST, you write:> Um, the Fords usually have a driver's side output.  Doesn't something else>  use a divorced case though? (like a chevy).  I know the samurai's do (and>  they even have nifty low range kits too), but I'm not sure which side the>  output is on.>>>  Jonathan Albrecht
 Nissan??? Zuki might be better: low gear options.
 David
 DRM033@aol.com
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 22:25:16 -0800 (PST)
 From: Jonathan Albrecht  Subject: deisel
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org>> Um, the Fords usually have a driver's side output.  Doesn't something else>>  use a divorced case though? (like a chevy).  I know the samurai's do (and>>  they even have nifty low range kits too), but I'm not sure which side the>>  output is on.>> Nissan??? Zuki might be better: low gear options.
 Naw, not Nissan.  They don't have much available and aren't divorced.
 Jonathan Albrecht
 albr9619@uidaho.edu
 http://www.uidaho.edu/~albr9619/
 ------------------------------
 Date: Sat, 15 Mar 1997 01:11:33 -0500 (EST)
 From: DRM033@aol.com
 Subject: Digest mode
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Could I be placed on digest mode?
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 17:08:43 -0500
 From: "R. W. 'Butch' Stiles"  Subject: downey header (a bit long)
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Steve Capuano wrote:>>   I>>don't know if it's hard on anything to run the engine w/out the manifold,>>but I can gaurantee that it will be *really* loud.  Alternativley you>>could probably just jack up the front of the truck with a floor jack.>>>>>>>>Jonathan Albrecht>>albr9619@uidaho.edu>>http://www.uidaho.edu/~albr9619/>>>>>> Bad Idea!!!!!!1> You want some back pressure....imagine this when, someone drags on a> cigarette the tip glows redder.  No back pressure and you will suck air> across your exhaust valves and they will glow.  Now you have burnt valves.> Please correct me if my info. is not right.  This is what I was told.> Steve C.
 Steve,
 Back pressure is not the issue, contrary to popular belief back
 pressure is NOT required for an engine to run. (Look at dragsters)What
 you're dealing with is tuning. The engine is being supplied with the
 amount of fuel it needs based on the amount of air it can move in and
 out of the cylinders. Running it without the exhaust unbalances the
 equation and has the effect of leaning out the mixture which causes the
 engine to run VERY hot and can burn right thru pistons if left
 unchecked, along with the valves and other sundry items. You are correct
 that this is a bad idea but the truck could be run long enough to put it
 up on some ramps without hurting anything. Ive seen this done, no
 problem !
 Butch Stiles
 rokitman@erols.com
 Just as it says, "Rocket Man"
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 08:05:50 -0700
 From: nickkrest@batnet.com (Nick Krest)
 Subject: Front Spring Shackles
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Steven Benson  wrote:
 "Longer shackles are abundent though I'm
 interested to find those who manufacture
 various lengths such as a 1.5"-2" longer
 than stock length. Does anyone know of a
 company which produces a shackle of these
 dimensions? The Downey and Northwest
 Shackle seem a bit too long."
 Downey makes more shackles than they list in their catalog. I'm running
 1/2" longer Rubicons in the front, and 1" longer Rubies in the rear. I
 don't believe either are listed in the catalog. Call 'em and see.
 - Nick
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 08:05:52 -0700
 From: nickkrest@batnet.com (Nick Krest)
 Subject: Front torque rod
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Hey all you solid-axle cats and kitties:
 Question: what's the correct center-to-center length for a factory torque
 rod (79-83)?
 - Nick
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 22:19:37 EST
 From: cjgaffen@juno.com
 Subject: Good Battery?
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 I believe Interstate got a top rating from Consumer Reports last time
 they tested batteries.
 Chas
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 17:44:09 -0500
 From: Ed.Wong@astramerck.com
 Subject: Header tips
 To: "        -         (052)albr9619 (a) uidaho.edu" ,
 Jonathan Albrecht's tips were VERY finely detailed, but I'd thought I'd add
 a few tips (having done 4 of them - all IFS and post 88 EFI on 22REs)
 First - there are three studs that hold the "down pipe" to the manifold - it is
 FAR easier to take this off from the manifold so that taking the exhaust
 manifold off the studs is REAL easy.
 Remove the heat shield that protects the IFS A Arm - it gets in the way. On the
 LC engineering headers - part of the heat sheild has to be "dimpled" a tad
 if you wish to retain it.
 Drop the sway bar - take it all the way out. It gets in the way of the creeper.
 (if you have a lift in your house - you are WAY ahead of me an probably dont
 need
 these tips anyway)
 With the emissiosn cross over pipe - the problem is that there are "studs" on
 the pipe that attaches on TOP of the manifold; so that putting everything back
 is a pain.
 * bend the pipe running near the firewall so that the studs clear. Be careful!
 * cut off the studs
 * drill and tap the remainder of the studs with the proper threads for the
 bolts
 that you are going to install (I used 12mmx1.25 x 45mm)
 All of this makes putting it back together MUCH easier.
 My prefernce is for hte LC Headers - they're the most $$ (~$280), but
 thye come pre coated in ceramic - inludign the connector pipe.
 My latest one has lasted 3 years an 80K in the rust belt....
 EWong
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 07:13:21 -0500 (EST)
 From: Toy4x4s@aol.com
 Subject: head gasket poll
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org
 < Subject: Head Gasket Poll
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org>> Anyone want to do a 4x4-list poll of the 88-95 model trucks with the 3VZ-E> engine that have replaced or not replaced their head gaskets?> Scott Hawkins - 95 4Runner Ltd.  27,000 miles on original gaskets.
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 08:02:53 -0600
 From: Lonnie  Subject: Head Gasket POLL? Why not?
 To: Toyota4x4 >Anyone want to do a 4x4-list poll of the 88-95 model trucks with the 3VZ-E>engine that have replaced or not replaced their head gaskets?
 I am one on the fortunate who had to change the head gaskets.I have an 88
 4X4 pickup.
 As a member of the elite poor, I had to do it myself. Let me tell you,
 given the choice between that and open heart surgery, I'm thinkin that the
 knife seems pretty painless.
 I must say in "Yoda's" behalf, that is the only major work I have had to
 do. I am the second owner of the truck and have put about 90,000 very hard
 miles on it for a total of 205,000. The first owner pretty much stuck to
 highways. I personally like to use the "shortest distance between two
 points" method. So you can imagine the abuse it has been through.
 ------------------------------
 Date: 14 Mar 1997 08:39:59 U
 From: "Jay Kopycinski"  Subject: Head Gasket POLL? Why not?
 To: "Toyota 4x4 List"  Subject:                              Time:  8:40 AM
 OFFICE MEMO         Head Gasket POLL? Why not?            Date:  3/14/97
 '91 4Runner.......68k miles.......no head gasket problem (yet)
 _____________________________________________
 Jay Kopycinski    '85 Toylet  (ROKTOY)
 Gilbert, AZ
 ryna10@email.sps.mot.com
 http://www.netzone.com/~jayk
 Arizona Lo-Rangers 4WD Club            TLCA #3243
 _____________________________________________
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 11:37:07 -0800 (PST)
 From: Kevin Valentine  Subject: Head Gasket POLL? Why not?
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 '88 4Runner -  not replaced, never had a problem with gaskets (180,000
 mi.).
 '91 4Runner - blown and replaced at 40,000 mi.
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 08:05:54 -0700
 From: nickkrest@batnet.com (Nick Krest)
 Subject: lift blocks
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 (Clips from previous posts)
 "I haven't heard of one (1/2" lift block)
 but they might be available. Seems like
 you could make one very easy with a chunk
 of 1/2" aluminum or steel.  I bet the shop
 would cut it out for very little money,
 and all you would need to do would be to
 drill the hole, replace the bolt running
 through the springs, and replace the u-bolts.
 ...I am going to go with the 1/2" lift
 block, even if I have to fabricate it."
 If I were to go with lift blocks, they would be iron or steel, not
 aluminum. Aluminum is simply too malleable to center your rear suspension
 around, IMHO.
 - Nick
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 12:59:44 -0800 (PST)
 From: Jonathan Albrecht  Subject: lift blocks
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org>> If I were to go with lift blocks, they would be iron or steel, not> aluminum. Aluminum is simply too malleable to center your rear suspension> around, IMHO.
 Probably right.  I dunno, we're using a 4" aluminum block with 2.5" longer
 shackles and an add-a-leaf.  Like I said before--no problems yet!
 Also, for those of you that are planning to lift your trucks, I would
 really recommend going with new springs all the way around.  For instance,
 the 4" blocks that came with my friend's Superlift kit were a 100 dollar
 option!  But we didn't know that when we orderd the kit (they just say,
 'the blocks are included in the price', yet the invoice listed them
 seperate from the cost of the lift). I've seen Skyjacker 4-5" rears for
 around 230 or so.  If you don't have the money...fine, but wait until you
 do.  So far between the blocks, u-bolts, add-a-leafs, and shackles he's
 almost spent as much as a new set of rear springs.
 have fun,
 Jonathan Albrecht
 albr9619@uidaho.edu
 http://www.uidaho.edu/~albr9619/
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 14:29:56 -0600
 From: Galen Sinkey  Subject: Manual hubs for A.D.D...
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Christopher,
 I'm very interested in installing manual hubs on my '95 Toy pickup.  Do you
 have to leave your transfer case in 4WD in order for this to work?  How do
 you defeat the ADD mechanism?
 Thanks,
 Galen Sinkey
 gsinkey@inav.net
 At 04:32 PM 3/12/97 -0800, you wrote:>>Yep I have done that to my '94 4runner. They work great and I think a get>about a mile per gallon better gas milage because the shafts and>differental don't spin wile I drive on-road. They were easy to put on too.>>> Hey, has anyone installed Warn manual or automatic locking hubs on there>> 4X4s with A.D.D.?
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 15:02:30 -0800 (PST)
 From: Chris Geiger  Subject: Manual hubs for A.D.D. LONG
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 If you have the ADD system on your truck then you don't have auto or
 manual hubs, you have what I call fixed hubs for lack of a better name
 (does anyone know if there is a proper name for this?). With the fixed hub
 your wheels and each front half shaft spin at the same speed always (2 or
 4 drive hi or lo) The ADD system "pulls back" the driver side shaft about
 2 inches when you take the transfer case out of 4WD but the shaft
 still spins. The passenger side also still spins but it is still connected
 to the diff. Assuming you have an open diff there is less friction in
 spinning the spider gears than in spinning the front drive shaft. So the end
 result of having the ADD system in 2WD is both half shafts spin
 and the side gears spin in the front diff.
 What manuals hubs give you: If you install manual hubs and leave them
 locked it is the same as having the toyota fixed hubs. If you unlock the
 hubs the diff and both front half shafts all stop spinning while you drive
 in 2WD. This saves ware on the front half shafts, front diff, and gives
 you about 1 mile per gallon better milage.
 Note: If you plan to use a limited slip in front you must use manual hubs
 if you have ADD and you must unlock them as soon as you go back to 2WD or
 you will burn out the LS.
 Note 2: If you have a lock-right in the front you can run in 2WD and
 leave the front hubs locked. This just spins the front drive shaft,
 whereas if you did not have the locker in, the shaft does not spin in 2WD
 Note 3: If you have lifted you truck by turning up the bars than the
 angels of the front half shafts are higher than normal and will ware
 faster so it a good idea to use manual hubs to save your ware for off-road
 time.  There is a 92 ish toyota truck here in Santa Barbara that has 33"
 tires and no lift. he just removed the bump stops compleatly and cranked it
 all the way to the top. Looking under his truck I noticed all 4 halfshaft
 boots were leaking. Next time I see him I am going to take a picture and
 put it on my Wed page... looser...
 I usually leave the front hubs locked as I travel unless a don't plan to
 use 4WD for a few days or plan to drive on the hiway for more than 100
 miles.
 If I am going into snow I lock the hubs before I hit the stuff so I can go
 in and out of 4WD using the "shift on the fly" feature.
 To answer the question put the hubs on, lock them before you shift into
 4WD and use the transfer case as normal.
 On Fri, 14 Mar 1997, Galen Sinkey wrote:> Christopher,>> I'm very interested in installing manual hubs on my '95 Toy pickup.  Do you> have to leave your transfer case in 4WD in order for this to work?  How do> you defeat the ADD mechanism?
 Christopher A. Geiger
 Technical Operations Manager     Fax   805-893-8758
 UCSB MicroComputer Laboratory    http://home1.gte.net/cgeiger/offroad.html
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 18:56:59 -0500
 From: WartHog  Subject: Manual hubs for A.D.D. LONG
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Chris Geiger wrote:>> If you have the ADD system on your truck then you don't have auto or> manual hubs, you have what I call fixed hubs for lack of a better name> (does anyone know if there is a proper name for this?).
 Live hub would be my guess for something like a (small vehicle that
 gives hemmeroids and whip lash and has no usefull cargo area)'s front
 end.
 I speced lock outs on mine.
> ... will wear> faster so it a good idea to use manual hubs to save your wear for off-road> time.
 Thats why I speced lock outs on mine.> There is a 92 ish toyota truck here in Santa Barbara that has 33"> tires and no lift. he just removed the bump stops compleatly and cranked it> all the way to the top. Looking under his truck I noticed all 4 halfshaft> boots were leaking. Next time I see him I am going to take a picture and> put it on my Wed page... looser...> In wrek.motorcvcle, these are called squids.
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 12:34:20 MST7MDT
 From: "Alan Anderson"  Subject: Need FJ-40 Clutch Slave Cylinder!
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Hello All,
 I just bought a '69 FJ from a friend of mine who used it on a dairy
 to scrape feed up to the cattle feed bunks after they ate what was
 close to them...it had a dead slave cyl. that is why he sold
 it...(plus he got a newer 70ish J**P, I'm sorry I used that J word!)
 I was wondering if anyone had a spare slave cyl. lying
 around (67-73 used the same part #) Mine is toast!
 inside is pitted...and I was wondering if anyone had a good
 one that they would sell CHEAP or a rebuildable
 that they would sell CHEAPER! (Yes I know that I could go to the local
 parts house and get a rebuilt one for about 30 bux) but I don't want
 to put any more money in it than I have to...(tub is rotted and it is
 going the have a frame-off soon) but I just HAVE to DRIVE IT NOW!
 (for all HARDCORE FJ owners you know what I mean...) I plan to make
 it into a dedicated rock crawler so down the road I will be having
 some insainly good prices on used parts....(good frame...no rot, good
 strong motor, trans, ect....) I want to save the body and put it on a
 custom frame w/quarter eliptical f/r springs and try to get 5-6 ft.
 yes feet! of articulation w/35in. tires.....Any Ideas would be
 appreceated!
 AND PLEASE FIND ME A SLAVE CYLINDER!!!!
 Thanx!
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 13:24:18 -0500 (EST)
 From: DRM033@aol.com
 Subject: None
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 In a message dated 97-03-14 13:17:58 EST, you write:> I am having an ARB air locker installed in my 90 4Runner next week.  The>  question that I have is the air line that comes with the ARB good to use?>   or should I get an upgraded air line?  Any advise and/or recommendations>  would be appreciated.>>>  Thanks
 I have heard people hate them, but mine has worked without flaw for the past
 year.  Well, they did start leaking last week, but I messed with the fitting
 on the diff, so thats my fault.
 David
 DRM033@aol.com
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 07:13:24 -0500 (EST)
 From: Toy4x4s@aol.com
 Subject: NWOR header
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org
 Just courious why no one has mentioned the NWOR header... That is the one I
 am considering whenever I get some bucks and warm weather. I like the way it
 connects to the cat. No slip on joint to loosen up... it bolts up. I've
 actually seen it in their showroom. It looks nice. I also like the fact that
 they have more than one design for diffferent vehicles... Downey is one size
 fits all so to speak.
 Comments?
 June Bennett
 TLCA 2942
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 07:31:59 -0800
 From: Eric Johnson  Subject: NWOR header
 To: "'Toy4x4@tlca.org'"  On Thursday, March 13, 1997 11:13 PM, Toy4x4s@aol.com wrote:> Just courious why no one has mentioned the NWOR header... That is the =
 one I> am considering whenever I get some bucks and warm weather. I like the =
 way it> connects to the cat. No slip on joint to loosen up... it bolts up. =
 I've> actually seen it in their showroom. It looks nice. I also like the =
 fact that> they have more than one design for diffferent vehicles... Downey is =
 one size> fits all so to speak.>=20> Comments?
 I've got one, and their warrantee (i.e. they have one) vs. downey is =
 what sold me on it. I've had it for maybe 2 years now. I've gone through =
 a couple header gaskets with it. I'm using a genuine toyota (metal) =
 gasket now, but that doesn't work well with the headers, so next time I =
 call NWOR I'll order another $8 NWOR gasket.=20
 I had broken the old tube from between the stock manifold and the cat, =
 so that was my excuse to buy one :)=20
 The NWOR DOES have a slip fit, mine came with a piece that bolts to your =
 head, another to you cat, with a slip join between them. Mine is the old =
 style before they went to the ball joint setup.=20
 Install was a snap... I don't understand the banana scale (anyone want =
 to educate me?) but I did it before work one morning.=20
 - --=20
 - - ej@blarg.net
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 10:57:29 -0800 (PST)
 From: Jonathan Albrecht  Subject: NWOR header
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org> Just courious why no one has mentioned the NWOR header... That is the one I> am considering whenever I get some bucks and warm weather. I like the way it> connects to the cat. No slip on joint to loosen up... it bolts up. I've
 Well, it *used* to bolt up, they're more recent add's show a strange ball
 joint coupling.  It doesn't look like a very good way to seal it up, but
 then again, I haven't seen it in person.  Does anybody know why this would
 be better than their old connectors?  I noticed that their new tacoma 4cyl
 header uses the old style connector..> actually seen it in their showroom. It looks nice. I also like the fact that> they have more than one design for diffferent vehicles... Downey is one size> fits all so to speak.
 That's kind of what I was thinking...though I haven't looked at the NWOR
 catalogue in a while.  What different models do they make?  I guess I
 don't really see why you would need different types of headers when all
 the 22r's are basically the same (AFAIK).
 But I do like the idea of a lifetime warranty and the thicker guage
 material though. How does this header compare to the LC header?
 Jonathan Albrecht
 albr9619@uidaho.edu
 http://www.uidaho.edu/~albr9619/
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 14:53:25 -0600
 From: Jack Alford  Subject: NWOR header
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org
 June wrote:> Just courious why no one has mentioned the NWOR header... That is the one I> am considering whenever I get some bucks and warm weather. I like the way it> connects to the cat. No slip on joint to loosen up... it bolts up. I've
 I have the NWOR header and find it works well, though the 'chrome' plating
 didn't stay on the tubes up closest to the head very long. I seriously
 contemplated having it jet coated when I got but they wanted $85 to take
 the chrome off, I thought I could 'drive' it off and I have ...
 Besides that, the header works excellently, I can pull long hills in
 5th gear that I never could before. Can't say that it helped low-end
 torque .... but this is a 4-cyl motor, not much is going to help it
 alot short of a welder and two more cylinders ...
 One guy a few weeks ago said that he had owned all three headers
 (NWOR, Downey, and LC Engin.) and he said the 4-to-1's outperformed
 the tri-y's all the way around. And that the LC Engin. was the best of
 all but it's quite xpensive. I see a Thorley header and one other
 for sale in alot of the go-fast parts catalogs but have never heard
 of anyone owning either, they're priced around the same as the others
 $199 ...
 Be sure to get larger tube exhaust from whereever possible, before and
 after the cat, or you'll be negating some of the benefit of the header.
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 09:01:46 -0500
 From: WartHog  Subject: preloading torsion bars
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Eric Johnson wrote:>> Jones, Andrew AL wrote:>>> So in the case of our> trucks, if you turn the rear of the bar (where it adjusts) 2 degrees, the> front of the bar turns 2 degrees (assuming the weight of the truck remains> constant).> Thru all of this, I havnt seen anyone adress the additional travel. If
 you twist the back "2 deg", and the front raises "2 deg", then there is
 "2 deg" more travle ( as far as the bar is concerned ), thus more twist
 potential. More twist equals more stress on torsion bar.
 A heavier bar, installed in the stock position, will raise the vehicle
 because it comes to equalibrium with less deflection.>>> Seems to me the ONLY way to put additional>>>torsion on a given torsion bar is to make it support additional weight.>> Or to crank it up, and then bounce her off the stoppers.
 Mark
 rheschel@kent.edu
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 10:34:49 -0500 (EST)
 From: DRM033@aol.com
 Subject: preloading torsion bars
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 I guess I will throw in my 2 cents worth...
 In a message dated 97-03-14 09:03:23 EST, Mark writes:> 	Thru all of this, I havnt seen anyone adress the additional travel. If>  you twist the back "2 deg", and the front raises "2 deg", then there is>  "2 deg" more travle ( as far as the bar is concerned ), thus more twist>  potential. More twist equals more stress on torsion bar.
 I disagree.  The bar is still lomited to the same ammount of travel as
 before, being dictated by the bumpstops.  Also, the bar has a built in range
 of movement.  By changing the position of the bar, you have changed where
 that range of movement is located.  if it could drop (bar twist) 3 inches
 before, and you crank the bar up 1", the bar will still drop 3", but it will
 "bottom" approx. 1" higher than before.
 Make sense?
 The tortion bar a built to handle a certain ammount of movement in either
 direction.  This makes sense as any metal bar will twist.  I can't see how
 twisting one end of the bar changes anything on the other end as far as
 force/weight is concerned.  The only thing I can figure is that there is a
 time while adjusting that you turn one end and the other does not respond
 yet.  I think that is where the pre-load comes in.  Otherwise, as someone
 else said, you turn one end and the other end responds accordingly.  There
 has been no change in weight, so the bar is not being acted on by that.
 Question: What if you crank DOWN the tortion bars?  does that mena less
 pre-load?
 Just my thoughts
 David
 DRM033@aol.com
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 08:18:18 -0800 (PST)
 From: Chris Geiger  Subject: preloading torsion bars
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org> Question: What if you crank DOWN the tortion bars?  does that mena less> pre-load?
 I am running a 4" Pro Comp lift and over sized bars and this is what I
 have found. If you crank up the bars then park in such a way as to be
 crossed up you will have less travel (static) than if you crank the bars
 down. However with the bars cranked down if you lift the front of the
 truck with a jack you will find that the wheels will not drop all the way
 to the lower bump stop. You cannot use the entire travel (stop to stop) in
 low speed (under 5 MPH) the bars just don't move that much. The Max I get
 is 6" with the bars cranked down (3/4" below stock) and I lose static
 travel as I go up. Parking on the same set of rocks with the bars cranked
 up (1.5" over stock with poly stops) I have only a 4" difference as
 measured from the hub to the bottem of the fender. I usually run with the
 bars down, but when I need more active travel (hi speed driving 30 mph) I
 like to crank up the bars a bit so I don't bottem out on the compression
 bump stops. I hate IFS...
 Christopher A. Geiger             Voice 805-893-4044
 Technical Operations Manager      Fax   805-893-8758
 UCSB MicroComputer Laboratory     http://home1.gte.net/cgeiger/index.html
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 09:57:01 -0800
 From: Eric Johnson  Subject: preloading torsion bars
 To: "'Toy4x4@tlca.org'"  WartHog wrote:> 	Thru all of this, I havnt seen anyone adress the additional travel. If> you twist the back "2 deg", and the front raises "2 deg", then there is> "2 deg" more travle ( as far as the bar is concerned ), thus more twist> potential. More twist equals more stress on torsion bar.
 This I agree with... adjusting the bars, by itself, does not 'preload' the
 bar... but since the bar is capable of getting twisted (on compression)
 more than before (and less on extension), it may get beyond its 'linear'
 zone, and be rougher off-road, during heavy compression (which is rough to
 begin with!)> 	A heavier bar, installed in the stock position, will raise the vehicle> because it comes to equalibrium with less deflection.
 Agreed. I'm not saying theres not a place for heavier torsion bars, I'm
 just saying the reason has nothing to do with preloading (except in the
 case where more weight has been added, such as a heavy winch/bumper). Heavy
 tire/wheel combinations can bounce around pretty heavily at speed, and
 thats another reason for heavier torsion bars.
 - --
 - -- ej@blarg.net
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 13:27:25 -0800 (PST)
 From: Jonathan Albrecht  Subject: preloading torsion bars
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org>> So in the case of our>> trucks, if you turn the rear of the bar (where it adjusts) 2 degrees, the>> front of the bar turns 2 degrees (assuming the weight of the truck remains>> constant).>> 	Thru all of this, I havnt seen anyone adress the additional travel. If> you twist the back "2 deg", and the front raises "2 deg", then there is> "2 deg" more travle ( as far as the bar is concerned ), thus more twist> potential. More twist equals more stress on torsion bar.>> 	A heavier bar, installed in the stock position, will raise the vehicle> because it comes to equalibrium with less deflection.
 I've read this over a few times, and each time I come away thinking you
 mean differnt things.
 Do you mean that if you have a HD torsion bar, then it won't need to twist
 as much to hold up the truck (true, regardless of position), and therefore
 doesn't need to twist as far (total) as a stock one would to bottom the
 suspension?   aha...okay, I get that.
 Yeah, I can see how that would be easier on the t-bar, to some extent.>>>> Seems to me the ONLY way to put additional>>>>torsion on a given torsion bar is to make it support additional weight.>>>>> Or to crank it up, and then bounce her off the stoppers.
 Right, okay, yeah I agree with that.  You're basically saying that if you
 took a stock bar, and cranked it up, maybe it would twist the bar 30
 degrees (to hold the truck up).  Then to bottom the suspension, the bar
 would need to twist an additional, say 30 degrees, for 60 degrees of
 total twisting (durings suspension bottoming). If you took a HD bar,
 and put it in with the same lift, then it would only need to twist, say 20
 degrees to hold up the truck, and then during bottoming it would still
 twist another 30 degrees, and therefor only have to twist a total of 50
 degrees.
 But this still doesn't mean that the ride would be any softer or
 anything--just that maybe it would be easier on the bar.
 hmm, hadn't thought about that perspective before.
 Jonathan Albrecht
 albr9619@uidaho.edu
 http://www.uidaho.edu/~albr9619/
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 13:34:36 -0800 (PST)
 From: Jonathan Albrecht  Subject: preloading torsion bars
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org>> The tortion bar a built to handle a certain ammount of movement in either> direction.  This makes sense as any metal bar will twist.  I can't see how> twisting one end of the bar changes anything on the other end as far as> force/weight is concerned.  The only thing I can figure is that there is a> time while adjusting that you turn one end and the other does not respond> yet.  I think that is where the pre-load comes in.  Otherwise, as someone> else said, you turn one end and the other end responds accordingly.  There> has been no change in weight, so the bar is not being acted on by that.
 All pre-loading is, is how much weight the bar must handle to hold up the
 truck.  Zero preloading is zero twisting of the bar.  If the bar must
 twist 30 degrees to hold up the truck, then it's pre-loaded by whatever
 amount of torque it takes to do that.> Question: What if you crank DOWN the tortion bars?  does that mena less> pre-load?
 Yes, but for the same reason that cranking UP the t-bar means LESS
 pre-load.  At any angle above or below parallel to the ground, it simply
 takes less torque to hold the truck up--the moment arm is shorter.  So, it
 doesn't matter if you crank it up 1" or crank it down 1"--the pre-load is
 the same, and is less than if it's parallel to the ground (which I'm
 assuming is the case when stock)
 And this is why it's stiffer when you crank up the t-bars.  It simply
 takes less force to hold up the truck.
 Jonathan Albrecht
 albr9619@uidaho.edu
 http://www.uidaho.edu/~albr9619/
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 18:05:47 -0500
 From: WartHog  Subject: preloading torsion bars
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 DRM033@aol.com wrote:>> I guess I will throw in my 2 cents worth...>> In a message dated 97-03-14 09:03:23 EST, Mark writes:>>>> I disagree.  The bar is still lomited to the same ammount of travel as> before, being dictated by the bumpstops.  Also, the bar has a built in range> of movement.  By changing the position of the bar, you have changed where> that range of movement is located.  if it could drop (bar twist) 3 inches> before, and you crank the bar up 1", the bar will still drop 3", but it will> "bottom" approx. 1" higher than before.> Make sense?> No
 By cranking the bar 1" higher, you have added 1" extra twist before
 hitting the stop. I'm no off road mainiac. It takes very little to
 bounce my 95 off the stoppers. If I cranked the bar to make the front
 sit 1" higher, she would be bouncing off the stops 1" of twist beyond
 design. It's the additional twist during the suspension travle that
 fatigues the bar prematurely resulting in breakage.>  The only thing I can figure is that there is a> time while adjusting that you turn one end and the other does not respond> yet.
 Thats called Friction. In a perfect system, In = Out. Friction keeps the
 Out from ='ing in.> Mark
 rheschel@bright.net
 ------------------------------
 Date: Sat, 15 Mar 1997 00:02:07 -0500 (EST)
 From: DRM033@aol.com
 Subject: preloading torsion bars
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 In a message dated 97-03-14 18:12:54 EST, you write:
 I wrote:>  I disagree.  The bar is still lomited to the same ammount of travel as>   before, being dictated by the bumpstops.  Also, the bar has a built in> range>   of movement.  By changing the position of the bar, you have changed where>   that range of movement is located.  if it could drop (bar twist) 3 inches>   before, and you crank the bar up 1", the bar will still drop 3", but it> will>   "bottom" approx. 1" higher than before.>   Make sense?>>  No>>  By cranking the bar 1" higher, you have added 1" extra twist before>  hitting the stop. I'm no off road mainiac. It takes very little to>  bounce my 95 off the stoppers. If I cranked the bar to make the front>  sit 1" higher, she would be bouncing off the stops 1" of twist beyond>  design. It's the additional twist during the suspension travle that>  fatigues the bar prematurely resulting in breakage.> I don't see what you are saying.  I will say that I was wrong on some things.
 In the scenario I gave, compression travel WILL decrease 1".  As I said,
 with the same weight, the bars have a built in range of movement. Cranking on
 the bars changes that range.  If this is wrong, some one please tell me
 EXACTLY why this is wrong.
 I do see that by cranking up the bars, You have increased the distance from
 the arm to the upward compression stops.  This extra distance would be where
 the breakage would occur, because the bar is not being restricted as
 designed, and can move further than the bar can take.
 So I guess I agree, and disagree.
 David
 DRM033@aol.com
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 21:26:53 -0800 (PST)
 From: Jonathan Albrecht  Subject: preloading torsion bars
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org>>  By cranking the bar 1" higher, you have added 1" extra twist before>>  hitting the stop. I'm no off road mainiac. It takes very little to>>  bounce my 95 off the stoppers. If I cranked the bar to make the front>>  sit 1" higher, she would be bouncing off the stops 1" of twist beyond>>  design. It's the additional twist during the suspension travle that>>  fatigues the bar prematurely resulting in breakage.>>> I don't see what you are saying.  I will say that I was wrong on some things.>  In the scenario I gave, compression travel WILL decrease 1".  As I said,> with the same weight, the bars have a built in range of movement. Cranking on> the bars changes that range.  If this is wrong, some one please tell me> EXACTLY why this is wrong.
 Okay, I think I missed your 'sencario'.  But from just reading what you've
 written here, I don't agree.  I think the bars have a range of movement
 that is quite a ways beyond what the stock setup's 4.5" of travel allows.
 Otherwise how would they get away with 10"+ travel setups?  The bar can
 twist a lot farther than it ever does in the stock arrangement--though
 this will surely lead to sooner breakage.  But that's just like everything
 else on your 4x, it's overdesigned to a certain point, and can usually
 handle more abuse than it was intended for.> I do see that by cranking up the bars, You have increased the distance from> the arm to the upward compression stops.  This extra distance would be where> the breakage would occur, because the bar is not being restricted as> designed, and can move further than the bar can take.
 IMHO, the stock bars can take it.  But they might not last as long as a
 result of this.
 Jonathan Albrecht
 albr9619@uidaho.edu
 http://www.uidaho.edu/~albr9619/
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 15:53:38 -0500 (EST)
 From: SKeene8194@aol.com
 Subject: Rear torque rod.
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org
 This Question is directed mainly to Jay Kopycinski & Nick Krest who were
 discussing Rear torque rod design. for pickups.
 When the springs are compressed the axel moves rearward as the shackle swings
 back.   What have you done in your designs to allow for the rear movement of
 the axel and still be able to prevent spring wrap?  How much movement would
 you say you have built into your design?
 Steve Keene  -  skeene8194@aol.com
 TLCA #5414
 81 Pick up, 33"X12, 3" Lift, On board Air, Lock-Rite in rear,  4.56:1,
 Diff breathers, etc.,
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 16:21:48 -0600
 From: Jack Alford  Subject: Rear torque rod.
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org>When the springs are compressed the axel moves rearward as the shackle swings>back.   What have you done in your designs to allow for the rear movement of>the axel and still be able to prevent spring wrap?  How much movement would>you say you have built into your design?
 I think your logic is a bit flawed, the axle never really goes rearward more
 than when the truck is at rest. The distance from the front spring hanger
 to where the springs are bolted to the axle housing is a static distance.
 At some point in the springs range of compression, as it becomes negatively
 arched, it is a hair shorter but it never really gets any longer of any
 significant amount.
 A single attachment point on the top of the pumpkin can greatly help control
 axle wrap but cannot do so without limiting travel.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------
 Jack Alford              Off-Road.com - The best dirt on the net!
 jalford@off-road.com              http://www.off-road.com/
 Decatur, AL
 '86 Xcab Toyota Pickup -  33x12.50 BFG MT
 Solid Front Axle - Marlin Crawler - ARB's - 4.88's
 SFWDA  -  TLCA #3415  -  Rocket City Rock Crawlers
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 11:31:44 +0000
 From: "Mike Williams"  Subject: Skyjacker Lift
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 On 14 Mar 97 , wgirindra@bbs.fronet.com (Wilkin Girindra) wrote:
 ............................................... my 81 toy has a> 6" lift that has been on the truck for about 3 years. These springs> are extremely stiff and have very little articulation.> I'm currently looking at the 5" Skyjacker springs for all> 4 corners. Has anyone had good or bad experience with these> springs?
 Many years ago I ran a  6" brand X suspension kit.  When Skyjacker
 came out with their early softride system (did not use teflon wear
 pads, bolt style clips, and other features) I junked my 6" lift that
 used add-a-leafs and blocks for rear lift.  I found the new 5"
 Skyjacker system gave a better ride, but was still a stiff suspension
 (in stock form).  Skyjacker has continued to improve their soft-ride
 system and it should be an improvement over your 6" system.
 IMHO a 5" or 6" suspension is going to ride stiff unless it is
 modified to some extent.
 Suggest any alternatives. I'm currently running> 33x12.50 Yokohama Mud Diggers and will stay with 33" tires.
 If you don't have a need for a 5" lift, try a 3" lift (in most
 instances a 3" lift is not as stiff as a 5" lift).  Your 33" tires
 and 3" lift will be adequate for most situations (for rock crawling
 Jack and Jay have a wealth of experience in this area).
 Mike Williams
 ======+++++++++++++======
 mwill@ctos.com
 ===++++++++++++++===
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 08:00:35 -0800
 From: Eric Johnson  Subject: Spring Shackles
 To: "'Toy4x4@tlca.org'"  On Saturday, March 08, 1997 4:46 PM, Ken=20
 [snip]>   Anyone can correct me if I am wrong, but adding shackles to the=20> rear of the springs (since we are talking about the rear of the=20> truck) has the effect of putting more pressure  on the=20> rear of the spring.  If you look at the springs, you=20> will notice that the other leaves are closer to the front of the=20> spring that the rear, so not only are you adding pressure on the rear=20> of the spring, but the other springs aren't operating as they are=20> supposed to because spring pressure has been moved rearward. =20
 Here we go again... :) Granted, the geometry is a little different (but =
 we;re only talking about an inch or so right?) Seems to me the geometry =
 would suggest more pressure on the front, but just like the torsion bar =
 debate, you can't add more force to the spring unless you make it hold =
 more weight. You CAN effect whether the relative weight being borne by =
 the front or the rear of the spring, but only to the extent that the =
 axle moves forward or backward relative to its original position, which =
 in this case is nil... Shackles DO increase the compression travel of =
 the rear springs, which may be bad for the springs if they compress =
 beyond what they are capable of doing. I've been extremely happy with my =
 shackles, the extra travel has helped out on a number of occasions.> Once=20> you have added extended shackles, you will find that when you remove=20> them, your truck will sag worse than ever because you have put more=20> stress on the springs.
 Has anyone experienced this?=20>  Also, lengthened shackles will (and do)=20> increase axle wrap.  Since more pressure is on the rear of the=20> spring, and the other two springs are helping less, the spring moves=20> easier, making axle wrap a lot more noticeable. =20
 I get 50% more axle wrap. 1.50 x 0 =3D 0 :) I've never noticed axle wrap =
 with or without shackles on my rig. Of course, I'm running a 22RE with a =
 A340H, so I'm not exactly dumping tons of horsepower into it :)  =
 Shackles definitely promote axle wrap LESS than an equivalent block... =
 but I don't want to get into the moment-arm thing again :)
 We got a lot of voodoo physics around here...=20
 - --=20
 - - ej@blarg.net
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 12:32:58 MST7MDT
 From: "Alan Anderson"  Subject: spring shackles...
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Hello all,
 I was wondering if there is anyone on the list from the So. Idaho
 area? If so would you like to join an Off-Road club? We are trying to
 get one started....
 With all the talk about longer than stock spring shackles, I was
 wondering if anyone has built any custom shackles themselves?
 If so did you make a braced/unbraced type? I wanted to make a set
 for my toy....I was thinking about an unbraced type to get more axle
 articulation....If someone has done this, what did you make them out
 of? Will mild steel work? I was thinking about 3/8in. plate or
 strap...Ideas? I am lookin for about 1-1/2 to 2in. of lift...but
 mainly more articulation....  Jack, Jay,?, give me a hand here....
 Please send to my E-mail as well as the list
 Thanx,
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 14:45:25 -0600
 From: Jack Alford  Subject: spring shackles...
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org
 Alan Anderson"  wrote:>   With all the talk about longer than stock spring shackles, I was>wondering if anyone has built any custom shackles themselves?>If so did you make a braced/unbraced type? I wanted to make a set>for my toy....I was thinking about an unbraced type to get more axle>articulation....If someone has done this, what did you make them out>of? Will mild steel work? I was thinking about 3/8in. plate or>strap...Ideas? I am lookin for about 1-1/2 to 2in. of lift...but>mainly more articulation....  Jack, Jay,?, give me a hand here....
 I've made and modified a few pairs. If you're going to make a set of
 unbraced ones then I'd use 3/8" x 2" plate. If you're going to
 make them braced 1/4" x 2" would suffice depending upon how long
 you're going to make them and whether or not you're going to put
 them on the front or the rear. Just average mild steel will work fine,
 I buy all my steel from the scrap yard ...
 -----------------------------------------------------------------
 Jack Alford              Off-Road.com - The best dirt on the net!
 jalford@off-road.com              http://www.off-road.com/
 Decatur, AL
 '86 Xcab Toyota Pickup -  33x12.50 BFG MT
 Solid Front Axle - Marlin Crawler - ARB's - 4.88's
 SFWDA  -  TLCA #3415  -  Rocket City Rock Crawlers
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 10:36:39 -0800 (PST)
 From: Neil Hunt  Subject: Toy4x4 Digest V1 #98
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org>disappointed and a little p'oed.  What do you think?> Anyone want to do a 4x4-list poll of the 88-95 model trucks with the 3VZ-E> engine that have replaced or not replaced their head gaskets?
 I blew a head gasket at 80300 miles, in January, and I'm POd too.
 The data I have suggest that it is a very significant problem.
 - - The tow truck driver who came out for me guessed it was the head
 gasket as soon as I told him it was a Toyota he was coming out to tow.
 - - The independent shop I took it to has done several Toyota head gaskets
 in the last few months - all between 70k and 90k miles.  They tell me
 that Toyota has redesigned the gaskets twice, putting a wider lip on
 the cylinder apertures each time.  This is troubling.  They wouldn't
 warranty the repair past 90 days, either.
 - - Toyota replacement gaskets are apparently on 90 day back oder (at
 least back in January) all over the country.  The after-market
 ones are on two-week back order.  Replacement head bolts can't be
 obtained.
 - - I got my old gaskets back.  There is not just the one hole on the #1
 cylinder, but also significant damage on #6, which is the symmetrical
 opposite, and even pitting and burning and evidence of blow-by on #3
 and #4.
 - - Since my problem, I've heard a lot about people with 70k+ miles on a
 model year 1990..1994 with a problem.  Given an average of 12k miles
 per year, the 1990 models are only just coming into the 80k miles
 problem age.  This problem is going to get worse -- I hear that the
 92..93 models are in worse shape.
 I sent in my extended warranty claim to Toyota February 5th.  I got a
 postcard back from Toyota on March 7th saying they had received my paper
 work, and would I please be patient because they had a lot of claims to
 handle!  That is supposed to make me feel better?  30 days to send me a
 POSTCARD?  I'm out $1400 bucks here!
 For the record, if you have already paid a replacement, you can send a
 claim to:
 Toyota Motor Sales USA Inc.
 Department G5000
 PO Box 2991
 Torrance CA 90509-2991
 Include copies of your work order, receipt, and proof of ownership.
 Fat lot of good it will do you, as far as I can tell!
 This whole episode, and the generally poor quality of service I have
 received at the local dealers (at outrageous cost, I might add) will
 make it a long time before I think about another Toyota.
 Neil/.
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 23:37:45 -0800
 From: "Michael Medart"  Subject: Toy4x4 Digest V1 #98
 To: >Anyone want to do a 4x4-list poll of the 88-95 model trucks with the 3VZ-E>engine that have replaced or not replaced their head gaskets?
 1988 X-Tra Cab V-6 w/ 136K miles.  Original head gasket.
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 14 Mar 97 10:59:00 mst
 From: "Roubinet, Paul @ SLG"  To: "'toy'"  I am having an ARB air locker installed in my 90 4Runner next week.  The
 question that I have is the air line that comes with the ARB good to use?
 or should I get an upgraded air line?  Any advise and/or recommendations
 would be appreciated.
 Thanks
 ------------------------------
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