Toy4x4 Digest          Mon, 21 Jul 97 12:30:02 (HST)  Volume 1 : Issue 321
 Today's Topics:
 4-Runner Rot (2 msgs)
 blower motor resistor madness!
 Brand Names for Ring Gear
 CV boot/CV joint?
 EFI SWAP + kENTUCKY ANYONE?
 Forged Wheels
 Hard to reach u-joint zerks
 Heat
 Hesitating '89 V-6 (2 msgs)
 Larger Wheels - Performace Results
 my first Toyota! (2 msgs)
 noisy tacoma
 Octance
 ooh ooh that smell
 Pismo this weekend!!
 Rear Suspension
 Rear window weather-strip (2 msgs)
 rewind Toy alternator
 Rubbing, vibrating noise
 Security Breach with Netscape 3.0 Gold - You can upgrade for
 Shackles (2 msgs)
 Stearing lubication (3 msgs)
 Steering stabilizer (2 msgs)
 tailgate and Jackmans... (2 msgs)
 Tire pressure 31x10.50x15
 Tire Psi (2 msgs)
 Toy4x4 Digest V1 #313
 V6 Parts & Engine Accessories, 5-Speed w/Removable Bell
 Vented brakes on a Solid Axle
 Vote No on Shock Boots
 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
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 ----------------------------------------------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 21 Jul 1997 15:29:46 -0400 (EDT)
 From: Duckguy@aol.com
 Subject: 4-Runner Rot
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
< 88' should not rot out like the older ones.  They changed the metal at> some point and the newer ones don't rot like the old ones did.
 Actually I think in 88 1/2 they changed them...Unfortunately my is a
 older 88...>> Anyone know what chassis number this was changed?  I've got an '88 and so
 far, only problem I've had with rust is in the outside sliding window trim
 and some frame chips which I quickly wire brushed and repainted.  Where does
 the "rot" show up?
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 21 Jul 1997 16:48:01 -0400 (EDT)
 From: "Dr. Karl Bellve"  Subject: 4-Runner Rot
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 On Mon, 21 Jul 1997 Duckguy@aol.com wrote:>>> <> 88' should not rot out like the older ones.  They changed the metal at>> some point and the newer ones don't rot like the old ones did.>>  Actually I think in 88 1/2 they changed them...Unfortunately my is a>  older 88...>>>> Anyone know what chassis number this was changed?  I've got an '88 and so> far, only problem I've had with rust is in the outside sliding window trim> and some frame chips which I quickly wire brushed and repainted.  Where does> the "rot" show up?> On my 1985 4Runner, over the rear wheel wells in the seam. It slowly eats
 into the seam and along the seam.
 Dr. Karl Bellve
 Biomedical Imaging Group
 University of Massachusetts
 WWW  : http://molmed.ummed.edu/~kdb/
 Email: kdb@molmed.ummed.edu
 Phone: (508) 856-3785
 Fax  : (508) 856-1840
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 21 Jul 1997 09:48:15 -0400
 From: Ed.Wong@astramerck.com
 Subject: blower motor resistor madness!
 To: "        -         (052)toy4x4(a)tlca.org"  OK
 As a truly certified DSE (dumb sh** engineerd) I present the following results:>The settings measure at:>  L to M1> 1.8 ohms>  M1 to M2> 0.8 ohms>  M1 to H> 0.5 ohms
 Barney - Its NOT 12 volts its 14 volts (when the engine is running) -
 AND its the drop across the resistor thats important - and
 that is NOT 12 or 14 volts! The voltages drops across each
 resistor is: (measured with a Fluke DVM)>  L to M1> 4.83 volts>  M1 to M2> 3.65 volts>  M1 to H> 3.21 volts
 Using V=iR and solving for I we get (after some rounding)>  L to M1> 3.45 amps>  M1 to M2> 4.56 amps>  M1 to H> 6.42 amps
 Using either P=i^2R or P=iV we get:>  L to M1> ~17 watts>  M1 to M2> ~17 watts>  M1 to H> ~20 watts
 This is NOT the wattage of the fan - but the wattage that the
 blower resistor pad turns into heat. It get RED hot. It will
 start a fire on the floor of your truck if you have paper there
 and it touches the paper while you are attempting to take
 voltage measurements (dont ask how I know - I know!)
 Barney's First mistake - the fan motor DOES have a resistance -
 or it would not consume power!
 However - from the above we can *assume* that the current draw
 is constant to the fan (the current cant come from anywhere
 else so its a resonable upper approximation). Treating the whole
 setup as a SYSTEM (blower and resistors) we can use the
 P=IV equation with V=14 volts, to get>  L to M1> ~48 watts>  M1 to M2> ~64 watts>  M1 to H> ~90 watts>  "High"> unknown
 I tried using P=i^2*R to solve for the total R and subtract
 the known R of the resistor pad to find the R for just the
 motor, but I got three different answers ->  L to M1> 2.6 ohms for the motor - 30 watts power consumed>  M1 to M2> 2.2 ohms and 47 watts>  M1 to H> 1.16 ohms and 48 watts
 However - a good "guess" is that the blower at full blast
 will consume about 50-55 watts of power.
 That was all WAY more than anyone cared about since what Barney wanted - the
 resistor
 wattages were calculated way up top.
 Now off to RatShack (aka radio shack) to see if we can get resistors that can
 handle that
 wattage at that resistance - unlikely to be cheap...
 EWong
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 21 Jul 1997 09:56:20 -0500
 From: John Vargus  Subject: Brand Names for Ring Gear
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Does anybody have any preferences on brand manufacturers for gears sets?
 Precision Gear
 Richmond
 Any others?
 John A. Vargus
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 21 Jul 1997 11:10 -0600 (MDT)
 From: "JC Nordyke"  Subject: CV boot/CV joint?
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org
 Here's a question for Jim or anyone else who might know.
 Forwarded message:
 _________________________________________________________________
 Date: Fri, 18 Jul 97 21:32:20 UT
 From: "Donald Holley"  Message-Id:  To: "JC (E-mail)"  Subject: CV boot.
 JC,
 well i have a problem, i think. i have a ripped outter CV boot on the drivers
 side. that's gonna be fixed, but what makes that happen? or is it just wear
 and tear? thats not the problem though. when i brake i hear a click in the
 front on the same side. i thought it may be the CV joint, but one place said
 if it doesn't click in 4 wheel drive it may not be. well it doesn't. another
 place said replace the whole 1/2 axle at $250.00. another place said just
 replace the boot and don't sweat it until it clicks all the time! now i'm
 confused. i checked the brakes and they are fine. as far as the rest of the
 truck goes it's great. i've had 3 diffrent places look at it and they said
 everything else was in good shape. well i'm not sure what i'll do, but i'm
 gonna do somthing.
 thanks,
 Eric
 _________________________________________________________________
 Thanx guys.
 JC Nordyke  KC0BKC
 TLCA #2921
 jc.nordyke@mci.com
 '86 Shortie Pickup  '88 4Runner
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 21 Jul 1997 12:16:24 -0400
 From: Sheldon  Subject: EFI SWAP + kENTUCKY ANYONE?
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org> Sheldon:>> Just my $0.02 worth:>> EFI dosent really get much HP/torque over your hot rodded setup.> I dunno if the 22RE head will go on an 83 block> There are some deck height differnces in those years...> EFI gets cold weather starting and "easier" tuning - as in there isnt>   much to be done. The swapover couild be an eletrical nightmare.> Its been done before - buts its almost as baig a project as a> full bore engine swap!>> EWon
 Thanks for the reply I have decided against it too much hassle for a little improvement "maybe".
 Besides I kind of like the "hmmmmm how do I type this"
 The rumpty bumpity way my motor runs now, it's neat to see the looks on peoples faces when at stop lights,
 reving the motor or even just letting it idle. Of course my tailpipe exits out the side just behind the drivers
 side door. That helps the sound a little.. ;-)
 Btw is anyone on the list going to the Kentucky Challenge? It's a short one and a half weeks away!
 Sheldink
 83ToY4x4...newly fabbed alum dash and sunroof....
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 21 Jul 1997 11:28 -0600 (MDT)
 From: "JC Nordyke"  Subject: Forged Wheels
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org
 Brian wrote:
 (snip...)>(....Anyone know how to strip this?)....
 I have a set of ARE steel Blade style wheels.  They were the ones that
 had the smoked chrome centers with the chrome outer ring.  The smoked
 centers were peeling(like it was plastic coated, I'm not sure, is that
 considered powder coated) and so I called a local automotive paint
 supplier and asked what they use.  They suggested a product called
 Skim.  It took off the remaining black coating without damaging the
 chrome.  I'm not sure this would work for clear powder coating, but
 you could ask at the auto paint supplier before you buy it.  Hope this
 helps.
 JC Nordyke  KC0BKC
 TLCA #2921
 jc.nordyke@mci.com
 '86 Shortie Pickup  '88 4Runner
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 21 Jul 1997 13:18:50 -0700
 From: Locke Christman  Subject: Hard to reach u-joint zerks
 To: "'Toy4x4@tlca.org'"  Brian,
 I have an extension that basically consists of a zerk that plugs into
 the end of the grease gun, and has a long pointed tip to reach in
 between the u-joint yokes.  You press the point into the center of the
 zerk and hold it there as you pump the grease in (kind of a 3 handed
 operation).  The one that I have is made by Plews tools (I'm sure that
 there are other brands), available at most parts stores or even
 department stores that have an automotive dept.
 Locke>--------->From: 	bwiencek@kcnet.com[SMTP:bwiencek@kcnet.com]>Sent: 	Monday, July 21, 1997 9:04 AM>To: 	Toy4x4@tlca.org>Subject: 	RE:  Stearing lubication>>OK, all the talk about lubing he steering has made me ask this>question ... On my 4-runner, the PO must have replaced the rear> u-joint with a different part, since the zerk fitting is between> the caps, making it impossible to get a grease gun on to it.  The>caps interfere with the gun.  I was wondering if anyone else>has expierenced this with aftermarket u-joints?  How do you grease>them??? I was thinking of trying to get something to allow me to>temporarely extend the fitting out so I could get the grease gun>on it.  Or should I just scrap the thing and go for one with a>center fitting?>>- Brian> ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 21 Jul 1997 10:43:18 -0400 (EDT)
 From: "Dr. Karl Bellve"  Subject: Heat
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 My semi-new (new to me) 1985 Toyota 4Runner SR5 seems to always runs hot.
 It lives about halfway up the temperature gauge while my old 1985 4Runner
 was only about a 1/4 up the temperature gauge. The hot running 4Runner
 also has rear seat heating which would expand the volume in the cooling
 system. That is the only difference between the two. When I bought the hot
 runner 4Runner, the rear seat heating was disconnected. I re-attached and
 ran new tubing. The temperature did rise slightly (always below the red
 area by about a 1/4). I bought a new thermostat but it didn't changed the
 temperature. I then changed the thermostat to a lower temperature one but
 the temperature gauge stayed the same. I, of-course, flushed and changed
 the anti-freeze in the system. I then saw a new kind of thermostat in the
 petersen's 4wheel mag that said it was more accurate than regular
 thermostats because it allowed fluid flow all around the thermostat to
 allow a more accurate opening of the thermostat. The hot running 4Runner
 has about 155K miles, in my possession for about 12K miles. The cooler
 running 4Runner had about 133K miles but it was in my possession for all of
 those and well maintained. Any ideas about why my hot 4Runner is running
 hot?
 Dr. Karl Bellve
 Biomedical Imaging Group
 University of Massachusetts
 WWW  : http://molmed.ummed.edu/~kdb/
 Email: kdb@molmed.ummed.edu
 Phone: (508) 856-3785
 Fax  : (508) 856-1840
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 21 Jul 97 13:03:25 -0500
 From: john_j_harville@amoco.com
 Subject: Hesitating '89 V-6
 To: Toy4X4@tlca.org
 - --MimeMultipartBoundary
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; name="cc:Mail"
 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
 OK, I'm about to go nuts trying to figure out why my ('89 V6)truck is
 hesitating. There is this annoying hesitation that only occurs when
 leaving a stop light under normal acceleration. If you accelerate
 hard, it doesn't happen, or maybe it just passes it up so quickly that
 it goes unnoticed. It also misses ever-so-slightly at an idle. I have
 checked the following and am at a loss;
 1)Entire EGR system-OK
 2)New plugs,rotor,cap,wires,etc.
 3)New fuel filter
 4)Checked timing-OK
 Still need to check the throttle position sensor, etc. But was
 wondering if anyone(Jim Brink?) may have some insight or has
 experienced this before.
 Also when checking the emission control systems, I noticed that the
 charcoal canister did not pass the test as described in the service
 manual. The test says to blow low pressure compressed air into the
 large top port. When doing this, air should flow freely from both the
 bottom outlet and the purge port. It only comes out of the bottom
 outlet and not the purge port. Is my canister bad? Can this be causing
 my hesitation? Don't want to keep replacing parts that aren't bad...so
 any info you all may have would be great.
 John Harville
 john_j_harville@amoco.com
 - --MimeMultipartBoundary--
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 21 Jul 1997 17:09:08 -0400 (EDT)
 From: DRM033@aol.com
 Subject: Hesitating '89 V-6
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 In a message dated 97-07-21 14:06:22 EDT, you write:
<> try checking for slack in the throtle cable at the engine
 David
 DRM033@aol.com
 ------------------------------
 Date: 21 Jul 1997 11:13:37 -0700
 From: Dion Hollenbeck  Subject: Larger Wheels - Performace Results
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org>> The Bearded One of B-town writes:
 Kevin> I know there has been discussion on the addition of larger
 Kevin> wheels to Toyotas and the resulting error in the speed shown.
 Kevin> What are the other results like MPG and anything else though?
 They are harder on the drive train, your MPG will go down and your
 power will go down the larger the tires you get without regearing.
 dion
 `85 4Runner 22RE
 `86 4x4 PU 22RE
 Dion Hollenbeck (619)597-7080x164                 Email: hollen@vigra.com
 http://www.vigra.com/~hollen
 Sr. Software Engineer - Vigra Div. of Visicom Labs  San Diego, California
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 21 Jul 1997 08:41:56 +0530
 From: elbutcho@juno.com (Paul Tom)
 Subject: my first Toyota!
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org
 Well I finally found myself a Toyota!  I ended up with a '93 Xtra
 cab SR5, V-6, 5 spd, with 42,500 original miles.  The first thing I want
 to get for it is a bedliner but I'm not sure if I want to go with a
 plastic deal or Rhino Liner.  My only hesitation to going with the Rhino
 Liner is I've seen a few that have been out in the weather for awhile and
 they start to fade and don't look as slick.  I figure with a plastic
 liner I can always replace it when it gets cracked or really messed up.
 Does anyone have any experience they want to share about either?  Thanks!
 Paul Tom
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 21 Jul 97 11:52:55 -0500
 From: john_j_harville@amoco.com
 Subject: my first Toyota!
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Item Subject: my first Toyota!
 Personally I would go with the plastic. The Rhino liners do not
 prevent dents and dings like the plastic ones do. I don't like to
 worry about my bed when tossing in firewood from about 20 feet away.
 You may also want to install a protective mat under the liner to
 prevent paint wear. If you plan to get a cap for your truck, then you
 will want to go with under-rail design. I you don't then by all means
 go with an over-the -rail design to protect the tops of those bed
 rails. I have an over-the-rail design with a cap and the road
 vibrations have pretty much worn all of the paint off underneath.
 Just my 2/100 of a dollar!
 John Harville
 john_j_harville@amoc.com
 ______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
 Subject: my first Toyota!
 Author:  Toy4x4-request (Toy4x4-request@tlca.org) at unix,sh
 Date:    7/20/97 10:11 PM
 Well I finally found myself a Toyota!  I ended up with a '93 Xtra
 cab SR5, V-6, 5 spd, with 42,500 original miles.  The first thing I want
 to get for it is a bedliner but I'm not sure if I want to go with a
 plastic deal or Rhino Liner.  My only hesitation to going with the Rhino
 Liner is I've seen a few that have been out in the weather for awhile and
 they start to fade and don't look as slick.  I figure with a plastic
 liner I can always replace it when it gets cracked or really messed up.
 Does anyone have any experience they want to share about either?  Thanks!
 Paul Tom
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 21 Jul 1997 08:41:44 -0400
 From: Joseph Lloyd  Subject: noisy tacoma
 To: "'toy4x4@tlca.org'"  Recently my 95.5 Taco has developed a noise that occurs when I travel =
 over bumps, holes, and even divots  in the road.  I haven't traveled off =
 road much since I've had it  so no excessive stresses like rock crawling =
 incurs have happened.  It sounds like it could be the shocks, struts, or =
 leaf springs as it is a springy, metal sort of sound.=20
 I remember reading about a number of  Service Bulletins that have been =
 sent out on the Tacoma....are shocks on that list?  My truck has thirty =
 thousand miles on it and sounds like an old farm truck when I get out if =
 it...
 I've got 6k left on the warranty so I'd like to know what the problem is =
 before the warranty runs out!
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 21 Jul 1997 13:56:23 -0700
 From: markadrian@juno.com (Mark D Adrian)
 Subject: Octance
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 My friend drives a late 1980s Toyota Landcruiser and claims her mechanic
 demands she uses at least 89 octane gas. To my understanding, the higher
 the octane, the better and more thorough the combustion and less degree
 of potential pinging. I'm curious and suspicious about what higher octane
 gas really is and really does. I run 87 in my 22RE with no problems. I've
 heard various claims of better performance and mileage. What's the real
 truth with higher octanes besides the elevated price?
 Mark
 Abusive government begins with proletarian apathy.
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 21 Jul 1997 12:36:55 -0700
 From: Locke Christman  Subject: ooh ooh that smell
 To: "'Toy4x4@tlca.org'" >Hey do all FJ 40s smell alike?  Sure seems that way.
 Yeah, I think so!  Not just 40's bout 55's too!
 (I know, wrong list.  Sorry guys!)  :-)
 I wonder why Toy PU's don't have that smell?
 Locke> ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 21 Jul 1997 13:41:35 -0700
 From: Scott Wilson  Subject: Pismo this weekend!!
 To: Toy 4x4 List  This will be the last Pismo reminder I post before the trip.  All are
 invited.  July 25-27 are the days.  E-mail me directly for more info.
 Here's the people who've said they're coming....
 Me
 Michael Medart
 Eric Stegall
 Mark Hansen (If he comes to his senses)(only kidding Mark!)
 Chris Geiger (Maybe for Saturday)
 And I've heard a few more maybe's that will probably work out.
 Scott
 - --
 _____
 /_/_|_\__       Scott Wilson TLCA #5261
 | _     _ :     88 4Runner SR5 V6
 */_\---/_\'     Santa Clara, CA
 (_)   (_)      http://www.scruz.net/~barneym/scott/
 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 21 Jul 1997 13:42:30 -0400
 From: Jason Matthews  Subject: Rear Suspension
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Looking for some opinions/experience regarding rear suspensions...
 I currently have a 93 X-cab with 4" Pro-Comp lift, which uses lift blocks to
 acheive the height in the rear. I am trying to find another setup possibly using
 some combination of lift springs[not helpers]/shackles/traction bars that will
 provide the same lift with less axle wrap, while still providing as much
 articulation as possible. Right now I am currently leaning towards 2"
 springs [preferences as to Downey or Northwest??] and a shackle combo...
 Any thoughts/pros/cons/opinions/$.02 appreciated....
 - --
 Jason Matthews
 93 V6 X-Cab
 4" Pro-Comp, 32" BFG's
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 21 Jul 97 10:11:23 -0600
 From: "Michael Stano" Subject: Rear window weather-strip
 To:  I wish to replace the lower weather-stripping on the sliding-glass rear window
 of my '84 std. cab.  The weather-stripping goes in the channel under the 2 glass
 pieces.  On the truck/in the frame, the glass won't move far enough to clear the
 ends of the weather-stripping.  I read the appropriate section of my Haynes
 manual and learned how the whole frame is removed.  Is removing the whole frame
 necessary?  If so, how difficult a job is it to remove and reinstall?
 Thanks in advance for any help you provide.
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 21 Jul 97 11:43:27 -0500
 From: john_j_harville@amoco.com
 Subject: Rear window weather-strip
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Item Subject: Rear window weather-strip
 Both removal and installation are pretty easy. To remove, you simply
 start prying the rubber gasket inward and work your way around the
 window until it is free. This is usually simplified if you have a
 helper.
 To re-install; Moisten the rubber gasket with a soapy solution(dish
 detergent and water). Insert rope(I think 1/4"-3/8" works well) in the
 gasket channel all the way around the window. Leave one end long enough to
 get a good hold on it. Have your helper hold the window inplace on the
 outside. Line the window up and start pulling on the rope. Work slowly
 until the entire window is seated. Hint: Don't be stingy with the soapy
 solution....more is better. Plus you'll have that lemon fresh smell in your
 cab. Just kiddin' Have fun.
 John Harville
 john_j_harville@amoco.com
 ______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
 Subject: Rear window weather-strip
 Author:  Toy4x4-request (Toy4x4-request@tlca.org) at unix,sh
 Date:    7/21/97 11:11 AM
 I wish to replace the lower weather-stripping on the sliding-glass rear window
 of my '84 std. cab.  The weather-stripping goes in the channel under the 2 glass
 pieces.  On the truck/in the frame, the glass won't move far enough to clear the
 ends of the weather-stripping.  I read the appropriate section of my Haynes
 manual and learned how the whole frame is removed.  Is removing the whole frame
 necessary?  If so, how difficult a job is it to remove and reinstall?
 Thanks in advance for any help you provide.
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 21 Jul 1997 17:14:39 -0400 (EDT)
 From: DRM033@aol.com
 Subject: rewind Toy alternator
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 I was wondering if anyone had had their Toy alternator rewound to get more
 out of it.  If so, what did it cost, and how much does it put out now?
 thanks
 David
 DRM033@aol.com
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 21 Jul 1997 08:37:36 -0500
 From: Michael Pluimer  Subject: Rubbing, vibrating noise
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org
 Date: Fri, 18 Jul 1997 16:23:31 -0700
 From: Jeff Seib  Subject: Rubbing,vibrating noise
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
<> I've spent my entire life in Minnesota. My family has had an '87 4Runner,
 '91 4Runner, '94 Toy 4x4 Pickup, and a '96 Tacoma 4x4 (My dad has the
 '91 Runner, I have the '94 PU, and my brother drives the '96 Taco). In
 January and February it's so cold your spit freezes before hitting the
 snow.  "Warm" is anything above zero.  I've had my Toy at temps down
 to 60 below zero (record-setting winter 1996).  Of course, only a fool
 would venture out in that weather!  Anyway, never once had a problem
 with rubbing or vibrating noises other than those due to ice buildup.  The
 '94 and the '96 are not garaged.
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 21 Jul 1997 14:33:54 -0400
 From: Philippe Maier  Subject: Security Breach with Netscape 3.0 Gold - You can upgrade for
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org
 Someone wrote "I am back to a real ( Sort of ) program, Net Gold 3."
 Don't know if any of you have heard about how if you are surfing a site
 with Netscape Gold 3.0 (or earlier, I think), someone at the server you are
 surfing can look and do what they like with YOUR "C" drive (or any other
 local drive.
 Anyhoo, you can get a FREE upgrade to Netscape Communicator
 4.01 Standard Edition, which is supposed to resolve the problem, from
 Netscape's WebSite. (For those who don't know WWW.NETSCAPE.COM)
 FYI,
 Phil
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 21 Jul 1997 12:05:10 -0400
 From: john skaggs  Subject: Shackles
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Does anyone know of a company that makes a stock length shackles for the rear of
 the front springs?  Or does anyone have a set of stock ones lying around?  I am
 in the process of installing a lift on my 85 $Runner and have found that the
 rubber bushings are vulcanized to the spring attachment bolts.
 I need the info as soon as possible so I can get them by this weekend.
 Thanks,
 John Skaggs
 TLCA# 5560
 85 4Runner (gettin taller soon) half way there
 Akron, Ohio
 John.Skaggs@ab.com
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 21 Jul 1997 12:54:15 -0700
 From: Wiley Davis  Subject: Shackles
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 You should be able to burn the original rubber out of them.  it stinks
 but it works.
 - -Wiley-
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 21 Jul 97 10:04:13 -0600
 From: bwiencek@kcnet.com
 Subject: Stearing lubication
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 OK, all the talk about lubing he steering has made me ask this
 question ... On my 4-runner, the PO must have replaced the rear
 u-joint with a different part, since the zerk fitting is between
 the caps, making it impossible to get a grease gun on to it.  The
 caps interfere with the gun.  I was wondering if anyone else
 has expierenced this with aftermarket u-joints?  How do you grease
 them??? I was thinking of trying to get something to allow me to
 temporarely extend the fitting out so I could get the grease gun
 on it.  Or should I just scrap the thing and go for one with a
 center fitting?
 - - Brian
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 21 Jul 1997 12:36:15 -0700 (PDT)
 From: Leroy Andersen  Subject: Stearing lubication
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 At 10:04 AM 7/21/97 -0600, you wrote:>OK, all the talk about lubing he steering has made me ask this>question ... On my 4-runner, the PO must have replaced the rear> u-joint with a different part, since the zerk fitting is between> the caps, making it impossible to get a grease gun on to it.  The>caps interfere with the gun.  I was wondering if anyone else>has expierenced this with aftermarket u-joints?  How do you grease>them??? I was thinking of trying to get something to allow me to>temporarely extend the fitting out so I could get the grease gun>on it.  Or should I just scrap the thing and go for one with a>center fitting?>>- Brian> I may be wrong, but I think those 'impossible to get to' zerk fittings are
 actually stock (someone correct me if I'm wrong). That's why a lot of people
 switch over to something like Spicers, so the zerk fitting is easily
 accessible. (Not to mention their good quality)
 ~~~
 Leroy Andersen			1985 SR5 Short Bed 4x4/22RE
 Citrus Heights, CA		138K Miles, RS9000's, 4.10's
 andrsen@ns.net			Rancho Springs/Add-a-leaf
 http://www.ns.net/~andrsen/
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 21 Jul 97 16:13:00 -0500
 From: Rosenberger Bud  Subject: Stearing lubication
 To: "mail@UUCP {Toy4x4@tlca.org}"  I think these are the stock ones.  I use a pointed device (NOT the
 needle) that has a zerk on one end and a 1/4" dia tube that tapers to a
 point on the other.  You insert this pointy adapter (zerk end) into your
 grease gun and then push the tapered end into the spot where the zerk is.
 You need some skill/luck to get it all lined up but you can then squirt
 grease into the fitting till it's full.  Then wipe up the joint because
 you probably got more on the outside than the inside!  It's worked for
 161k on my truck...I got mine at Western Auto I think.
 HOpe this helps,
 Bud
 ----------
 From:  'mail@UUCP '
 Sent:  Monday, July 21, 1997 10:04 AM
 To:  Rosenber; 'mail@UUCP '
 Subject:  RE:  Stearing lubication
  Subject: Steering stabilizer
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 dinoc@express-news.net wrote:>         I'm experiencing a bit of wheel shimmey and want to get rid of that.
 Wheel shimmey?  A steering stabilizer won't help wheel shimmey, it only
 dampens movement in the steering.  A more likely culprit would be warped
 rotors, alignment, or worn tires.>         I'd like to hear any comments about a steering stabilizer and what> would be the best options - Rancho, Doetsch Tech or some other brand. Also,> I'd like to hear about installation. Seems like a simple bold-on product> after removing the skid plate.
 It's a simple bolt-on if your old one comes off.  I couldn't get mine to
 come off nicely, so I sawed it off.  I hear the Explorer Pro-Comp is a
 bolt on design.  So is the Rancho RS4000.  The Rancho 5k and 9k are
 not...they require a mounting kit ($20-25).
 I use the Rancho 5k, and I'm very pleased with it's performance thus
 far.
 Scott
 - --
 _____
 /_/_|_\__       Scott Wilson TLCA #5261
 | _     _ :     88 4Runner SR5 V6
 */_\---/_\'     Santa Clara, CA
 (_)   (_)      http://www.scruz.net/~barneym/scott/
 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 21 Jul 1997 11:16:23 -0400 (EDT)
 From: Toy4x4s@aol.com
 Subject: tailgate and Jackmans...
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org
<> EWong. and JGMorris,
 I'm guessing you're referring to the whole tailgate I found for sale and
 posted here... I was browsing the net and I read that ad in the Sacramento
 Bee Classifieds... Sorry, I didn't save the email I sent... So you might
 check the archives. Wow, what a memory...
 There's also the guy who was wondering if anyone wanted anything off a
 4Runner he and his brother are parting out... Here's his email address...
 Just was posted yesterday.
 From: David Booth  WARTHOG-
 Yes, I remember Jackmans... We used to put them on our sand rails! Back then
 they seemed to be the brand of choice... Don't know exactly why... Could be
 that when you run the skinny front tire on a VW frt axle assy it was the one
 wheel that would fit? Or maybe it was because they were cool... Yeah, those
 white spokes were nifty... I only remember Jackmans on the front, and not
 really on the back. We ran Corvair running gear, and the W I D E wheels for
 the paddle tires just came with the tires... Hey, what can I say... I was a
 kid all of about 10-12 back then...
 June Bennett
 TLCA 2942
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 21 Jul 1997 12:53:11 -0700
 From: Wiley Davis  Subject: tailgate and Jackmans...
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 My dad went to highschool w/ a kid whose father owned jackman wheels in
 San Diego.
 - -Wiley-
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 21 Jul 1997 12:52:20 -0600
 From: gwking@senior-express.com (Gene W. King)
 Subject: Tire pressure 31x10.50x15
 To:  I don't know in what part of the country you are but here in Colorado I
 generally  air down to @ 20psi ,depending on the condition of the trail. If
 it's really rocky going, I'll air down to @12 - 15 psi. But the thing to
 keep in mind, at least out here, is the elevation climb. If you start @ 20
 psi  at @8000 ft., you could be back upto @25 - 30 at 10,000 - 12000 ft. I
 have ARB in the rear with an air hose fitting so I can air up again without
 driving long distances on pavement.
 Hope that helps.
 Gene W. King
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 21 Jul 1997 09:55:53 -0700
 From: "John D. Foster"  Subject: Tire Psi
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Chris Caldwell wrote:>> I've read a few posts of late that have talked of trail psi's and was> wondering if anyone could share their experiance with 31x10.5x15's> mounted on 7 inch wheels.
 It depends largly on the particular tires used, the load or weight of
 the vehicle, and also the terrain you're wheeling in.  Could be anywhere
 from 0-15 lbs.
 - --
 John D. Foster        mailto:jidd@mindless.com
 Home Page (updated)   http://www.psnw.com/~jd/
 Toyota Member List    http://www.psnw.com/~jd/toy4x4list/
 1991 GMC S-15 Jimmy 4.3 V6
 Toyota Axels, TH350, NP205
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 21 Jul 1997 17:00:54 -0400 (EDT)
 From: DRM033@aol.com
 Subject: Tire Psi
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 In a message dated 97-07-21 01:13:16 EDT, you write:
<> I would stay around 15 to 22 psi.  In the South, I have found that this
 offers a good compromise between loss of ground clearance and sidewall flex.
 I need all the clearance I can get for those mud holes.
 David
 DRM033@aol.com
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 21 Jul 1997 15:44:58 -0400 (EDT)
 From: Duckguy@aol.com
 Subject: Toy4x4 Digest V1 #313
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 In a message dated 97-07-17 23:53:19 EDT, you write:
<> Also, could be the wire connectors to the resistor themselves.  My problem
 wasn't the resistor, but the connectors overheating and melting.  I rewired
 them and the blower works fine.
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 21 Jul 1997 14:53:57 -0400
 From: Philippe Maier  Subject: V6 Parts & Engine Accessories, 5-Speed w/Removable Bell
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Extra, Extra, Extra ,,,  Buy my parts will ya.
 My V6 sucked in some water after a rushed fender repair when I did not
 have time to reinstall the molded plastic wheel wells on my 90 4Runner.
 Any way, after a jaunt in a sand pit one cold October morning (I live in
 Canada), I decided a quick dip in the bay to wash off some of the sand
 would be in order. Blew 3 connecting rods and made a 1" diameter hole in
 the side of the block.
 I've since replaced the motor and tranny (kept the xfer case) with a 305
 TPI and 700R4. Lots of work, but awesome results. (Just bragging here)
 Parts for sale are:
 Crank (would have to be checked to see if still OK after
 compressing several litres of water)
 Cams, Heads, Valves, ..
 Intake Manifold, Throttle Body, Injectors, etc..
 Partial Wiring Harness (Only EFI Related Components)
 All Engine Accessories (Power Steering, Alternator, ..)
 5-Speed Tranny, Bell Housing, Clutch Assembly (Solid)
 Misc.. Vaccum Valves, Ignition Coil, Distributor.
 ...........basically anything related to the V6 and the 5-Speed
 If you're interested, e-mail me at Pmaier@PMRA.HWC.CA .
 If you're looking for a V6 or 5-Speed part that I haven't listed, I probably
 have one to sell. Again, e-mail me and I'll let you know.
 Costs ??? Make me an offer. If I find it reasonnable, I'll  sell it to you.
 PS. I won't sell anyone the broken stuff. You know, that's no way to build
 a reputation (no one likes being gipped).
 Phil
 90 $runner (you're right about the $ and the 4)
 305 TPI w/ 700R4 (bragging again)
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 21 Jul 1997 10:10:41 -0400 (EDT)
 From: "Dr. Karl Bellve"  Subject: Vented brakes on a Solid Axle
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Well, I did the switch. I swapped vented rotors for my solid ones and
 changed calipers on my 1985 4Runner SR5. It was all straight forward since
 I followed Jack Alford's excellent talk through (and a toyota factory
 manual) on www.off-road.com.  I also ordered all the parts from
 www.smothers.com.  Below are the prices I paid and the part numbers.
 Shipping was $90 for 2 day (I wanted to go camping real bad). But I am
 getting that refunded because the UPS guy kept trying to deliver the
 parts next door and missed the two day dead line. I think shipping would
 have been around $30 for ground residential from the west coast to the
 east coast. The whole packaged weighed 58lbs, so you can check for
 yourself at www.ups.com.
 LINE   PART NUMBER    DESCRIPTION     CORE    LIST    SELL  EXTENSION
 *81 TOYOTA T LAND CRUISE
 2 AUT JBR336         F DISC BRAKE ROT           90.00   48.13    96.26
 *86 TOYOTA T HILUX PICKU
 1 BDX L45488         F LEFT CALIPER 7   45.00   87.24   43.94    88.94
 1 BDX L45487         F RIGHT CALPER 7   45.00   87.24   43.94    88.94
 Dr. Karl Bellve
 Biomedical Imaging Group
 University of Massachusetts
 WWW  : http://molmed.ummed.edu/~kdb/
 Email: kdb@molmed.ummed.edu
 Phone: (508) 856-3785
 Fax  : (508) 856-1840
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 21 Jul 1997 12:57:42 -0700
 From: Scott Wilson  Subject: Vote No on Shock Boots
 To: Toy 4x4 List  I'm posting this as FYI, not really a question.  I just wanted to let
 people know how much harm shock boots can do.  I've never heard any
 strong comments against them, so I've never thought about not using
 them.  After all, they came with my Rancho's.  I figured they look
 pretty good, and probably keep dust and dirt out.  The truth is...they
 - -can- destroy you shock.
 A couple of months ago I stuck my truck in the mud pit at Hollister
 Hills.  Everything up to the frame was covered in, filled with, or
 soaked in mud.  I cleaned it off the surface of everything, and cleaned
 out the brakes too.  I figured I got it all.  Nope.  I forgot the shock
 boots.  The mud sat in there for a month or more, and proceeded to eat
 my front shocks alive with rust.  (I'll be surprised if they last a
 year)  Anyway, I figured it was my own fault, and didn't see the shock
 boot as the direct cause.
 Last night I pulled the shock boots off my rear shocks (these shocks
 were  bought AFTER the mud incident, so basically they're still new).
 They already have -some- rust under where the boot was.  I have not
 submerged the axle, I have not been through mud, or splashed through
 puddles.  The only water I know of that could've gotten in there is from
 washing the car.
 As for me, I will no longer use the boots.  I took the rear ones of for
 good last night.  The front ones are already doomed, and they'd look
 worse without the boot due to the rust, so until they get replaced, I'll
 leave them on.  (Hey, that's be a good excuse to get the double shock
 setup I want!)  :)
 YMMV,
 Scott
 - --
 _____
 /_/_|_\__       Scott Wilson TLCA #5261
 | _     _ :     88 4Runner SR5 V6
 */_\---/_\'     Santa Clara, CA
 (_)   (_)      http://www.scruz.net/~barneym/scott/
 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
 ------------------------------
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