Toy4x4 Mailing List Digest v1n341

Toy4x4 Digest Thu, 31 Jul 97 12:30:02 (HST) Volume 1 : Issue 341
Today's Topics:
'94 Factory Manuals Wanted (2 msgs)
(was once) Lift Selection (2 msgs)
** The Ultimate Toy ** (6 msgs)
35" vs 33"
Bear with me.. rebuttal (2 msgs)
Bear with me please...
Blown Head Gasket ? (2 msgs)
Charge light (3 msgs)
Cruise Control information:
gearing
H4 Headlights (2 msgs)
Hauling Mountain Bikes (2 msgs)
Horn Installation Info. (2 msgs)
Pismo Advice
Shift points
Subject: Bear with me please...
Suspension Install Update (3 msgs)
toy 4x4
Toyota 4x4 Magazine
Ultimate Toyota
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 1997 08:50:31 -0500
From: Michael Pluimer Subject: '94 Factory Manuals Wanted
To: toy4x4@tlca.org
Anyone have their '94 Toy 4x4 PU V6 factory service manuals that
they'd like to part with? I don't really want to fork out $160 to order the
two manuals new. Otherwise, does anyone have any opinions
regarding the Haynes or Chilton's manuals? Is one better than the other
or are they both pretty lousy? Thanks.
Michael Pluimer
'94 Toy 4x4 PU, Reg. Cab, V6, 5 spd.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 1997 11:05:18 -0500
From: John Vargus Subject: '94 Factory Manuals Wanted
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Well i have all 4 sets ( kind of redudnant i know ) but each served a
purpose at the time.
Haynes - was the first manuals ever bought - they were sufficient for
light duty work and some specs ive since got rid of most of them.
Factory Manuals - Very specific to the t and i's dotted. Also have factory
manuals for exact specifications and procedures. Contain very good
troubleshooting procedures for the specific car that the manual covers.
160 covers one model in great detail.
Chilton Anniversary issue import guide - Very thorough and covers just
about everything needed to do a job. Step by Step ie... remove radiator
bolts...watch this and that. General troubleshooting but covers many cars.
Great tips sections. Definitely worth the 20.00
Chilton Professinal series - Very good but expect a mechanic background
somewhat. They leave the little stuff to common knowledge. But cover the
hard stuff in detail. 110.00 will get you a range of about 5 years. all
imports.
Have to purchase through a chilton representiative. If you decide on this
book i can get them here and pass them on to you, I have a pretty good deal
worked out with the guy.
This goes out to anyone, if i can be of assitance let me know
Depends upon your mechanical abilities and money.
Personally I like factory and chilton.
Just my opinion...
John A. Vargus
At 08:50 AM 7/31/97 -0500, you wrote:>Anyone have their '94 Toy 4x4 PU V6 factory service manuals that>they'd like to part with? I don't really want to fork out $160 to order the>two manuals new. Otherwise, does anyone have any opinions>regarding the Haynes or Chilton's manuals? Is one better than the other>or are they both pretty lousy? Thanks.>>Michael Pluimer>'94 Toy 4x4 PU, Reg. Cab, V6, 5 spd.> ------------------------------
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 1997 06:11:56 -0500
From: Chris & Nicki Yorke Subject: (was once) Lift Selection
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
James Brink wrote:> DRM033@aol.com wrote:>> My friend just bought a 91 Caprice LT1 ex-police car with 150,000> miles for $1300. Runs like a>> top, & still has the spotlight. I want one now.>>>> By the way, that car is GREAT to drive on the Interstate.....>> Yeah, I know what you mean. I had an '85 ex-CHP Ford Mustang for a few>> years in college. Pretty scary when you have to carry a full-size> spare> tire in the trunk for ballast.>> Oh, the Crown Victoras run well too. More on this later; were getting> off subject material here...>> --> Jim Brink - Manhattan Beach, CA 1986 Standard Bed 4X4/22R/M5> Toyota/ASE Certified Technician 32"BFG All-Terrains> (brinkjm@earthlink.net) LockRight/4.10 Gears> ************************************************************> **********> TLCA# 6184 / Friends of the Mojave Road (FOMR) / MRVMA-DESERT> EXPLORERS
We had a Dodge police car when I was a kid. It had the 383
Interceptor, you talk about a fun car. We would go to a dirt track in
Tx. and run it sometimes got beat once by a Vette and that is only
because he could turn his around a coerne at high speeds and my stepdad
couldnt.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 1997 13:49:33 -0500
From: "John Schultz" Subject: (was once) Lift Selection
To: Speaking of police cars, I saw one today with his lights flashing and he
was sitting right behind me along the interstate, a Crown Vic I believe.
Looks like I will be putting all of that "inadequate equipment" stuff I
learned on here last week to good use>:^/ I've had enough of all of this
police car nonsense now!! Brian, howzabout letting me borrow your 33's for
about an hour 0;)
John> James Brink wrote:>>> DRM033@aol.com wrote:>>>> My friend just bought a 91 Caprice LT1 ex-police car with 150,000>> miles for $1300. Runs like a>>> top, & still has the spotlight. I want one now.>>>>>> By the way, that car is GREAT to drive on the Interstate.....>>> Oh, the Crown Victoras run well too. More on this later; were getting>> off subject material here...
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 1997 09:57:42 +0200
From: Jack Alford Subject: ** The Ultimate Toy **
To: Preface: It's *MY* dream and it can cost as much as I want too :-) All the
work would be done by myself so I'd have essentially no cost other than parts,
not much Toyota about my Toy though ....
Your basic use: Rockcrawler, mud bogger, all around super-4x4-toy !
Frame and Body: 1990 style Xcab body & bed on 1985 frame with frame
shortened to 105" and bed bobbed to fit the frame. Front frame rails
are lengthened 4" and the crossmember also moved forward the same
amount to accomodate the power plant and to move the front axle forward
a bit to keep the 35's out of the fenders and to allow the use of longer
front springs and the use of a 4 bolt Saginaw power steering box, done so
in this manner as to not hurt the approach angle by just lengthening the frame
rails.
Tire size: 35" BFG M/T's ...
Engine (type, size, induction): 5.7L Vortec V8
Tranny: World Class T-5 from newer Camaro's... 2.95:1 1st gear
Transfer Case(s): Dana 300 (2.6:1) w/extra external, bolt-on 4:1 reduction
unit.
Adapters (if any): Transfer case to tranny
Front Axle (type, TAD, gear ratio): Dodge Dana 60, 4:10's, ARB, Narrowed
Rear Axle (type, TAD, gear ratio): Full-floating Dana 60, 4:10's, ARB,
Narrowed
Particular reasons for your choices?
Gear ratio of the tranny would make it excellent for low rpm
street driving and gas mileage (i.e. cross-country driving),
Yet the transfer case setup would give plenty of low range gear ratio
options (~80:1 crawl ratio). Streetability is the main drawback to
an NV4500 in my opinion as it's like having a 3-spd with a granny
gear and an overdrive.
As for the Dana 300, say what you will but a Dana 300 doesn't have an
aluminum housing ... Need at least 35" tires to raise the pumpkins of
the axle beef provided by the f&r D60's, no need to worry about shedding a
pinion if you don't have to. Not only would it be a super off-road truck,
it should perform pretty nicely at the dragstrip too, living up to it's
name:
** The Ultimate Toy **
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Jack Alford Off-Road.com - The best dirt on the net!
jalford@off-road.com http://www.off-road.com/
Decatur, AL
'86 Xcab Toyota Pickup - 33x12.50 BFG MT
Solid Front Axle - Marlin Crawler - ARB's - 4.88's
SFWDA - TLCA #3415 - Rocket City Rock Crawlers
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 1997 12:16:04 -0400
From: john skaggs Subject: ** The Ultimate Toy **
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Frame and Body: 85 4Runner, Fiberglass front end (no worries about getting that
Caddy in) bobbed rear
Your basic use: All around from mud to rock to mountain trails
Tire size: 35"BFG M/T's
Engine (type, size, induction): 500 CUBE Caddy with EFI (Tim Taylor Grunts)
Tranny: Reworked Ford C-6
Transfer Case(s): NP205 with reduction gears
Adapters (if any): What ever it takes to get in my combo
Front Axle (type, TAD, gear ratio): Dana 60, ARB, 4:10, CTIS
Rear Axle (type, TAD, gear ratio): Dana 60, ARB, 4:10, CTIS
Particular reasons for your choices? Tough, Torquey, bobbed 4Runner would look
WAY COOL!
John Skaggs
TLCA# 5560
85 4Runner (gettin taller soon) still only halfway there
Akron, Ohio
John.Skaggs@ab.com
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 97 11:55:57 -0600
From: bwiencek@kcnet.com
Subject: ** The Ultimate Toy **
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org>LetM-Us say you get to spend $6-10k in parts. This would>effectively eliminate exotic items and keep it somewhat>reasonable.
Gee.. this is right about what I need to start planning on doing anyhow...
The 4 runner is too darn stock right now... I think you forgot 2 fields
Base Truck Type: 1985 4Runner
Lift: 4" springs.. probably production fronts and Mazda/hybrid rears? $500
Shocks: RS9000's $180
Your basic use: 50% street, 30% towing, 15% off-road, 5% hauling junk around
for other projects :-P
Tire size: Dunlop Radial Rover RV's 33x12.5x15" (or 16) on some sort of
aluminum rims (for looks) Approx price $1000
Engine (type, size, induction): 22RE, stock bore & stroke, '84 pistons,
milled & ported & polished 20R head, oversize 22R valves, ported stock
intake, Custom grind cam, Tri-y header, 2.25" mandrel bent exhaust High-flow
injectors. plus all other basic rebuild stuff (gaskets, rings, bearings,
etc.) Cost $1800 reason: less $$$ than a swap.
Tranny: Stock Toy 5-speed, HD spec. built clutch.- heck it's cheaper than the
centerforce, and lasts longer $150
Transfer Case(s): Marlin 4.70 second transfer case (used behind stock case),
and driveshaft mods - $1800 Low gearing and a choice of ratios at your
disposal.
Front Axle (type, TAD, gear ratio): Stock Solid axle, 4.88 gears, ARB air
locker
Rear Axle (type, TAD, gear ratio): Stock, 4.88, detroit locker or
arb...haven't decided yet (approx-$1500/pr) Gotta have Max traction, and the
4.88's are perfectly suited for the highway driving.
Particular reasons for your choices? - (see above)
That should about get ME 98% of the places I need to go. (or should be going)
If I had a little bit more, I'd add to my list - custom Nerf bars for body
protection, nice bumpers F&R, and a 8K-9K lb winch.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 1997 10:32:38 -0700
From: Locke Christman Subject: ** The Ultimate Toy **
To: "'Toy4x4@tlca.org'" John Skaggs wrote:>>Frame and Body: 85 4Runner, Fiberglass front end (no worries about getting>that> Caddy in) bobbed rear>>Your basic use: All around from mud to rock to mountain trails>>Tire size: 35"BFG M/T's>>Engine (type, size, induction): 500 CUBE Caddy with EFI (Tim Taylor Grunts)>>Tranny: Reworked Ford C-6>>Transfer Case(s): NP205 with reduction gears
John, Did you see the bobbed FJ55 in one of the 4 wheel magazines
recently? It was in either Peterson's or Four Wheeler in the last 2-3
months. I'll try to find it tonight. It had a 500 CI caddy and Ford 9"
diffs. Your Ultimate 4 Runner sounds very similar. By the way, why a
C6 instead of a TH 400 or TH 350? Just curious.
Locke
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 01 Aug 1997 12:35:14 -0500
From: chris austin Subject: ** The Ultimate Toy **
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Todd and Terry wrote:> Tranny: NV 4500
You said you have a NV4500 is that in a toyota and was it hard to put in
and was it wort it?
Chris Austin Jr.
86'4x4 Xtra cab
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 1997 10:55:25 -0700
From: Locke Christman Subject: ** The Ultimate Toy **
To: "'Toy4x4@tlca.org'" Starting point: '80 Toy SB because the early ones are still my favorite
body style. The only thing better would be to import an early crew cab
to use as a starting point (or better yet an FJ 45 or 55, but thats
another list........)
Your basic use: Looking for an all around, go anywhere rig that is also
a daily driver. Given that I live in Western Oregon I had better be
prepared for deep mud holes and wet sloppy snow. I also want the
suspension flex and TADs to tackle the rocks when I get the chance to
head south or east. Reasonable highway drivability required to get to>local wheelin' trails but would trailer for long trips.> Tire size: 35-36" Swamper TSL SX or Boggers. Either would be great for
just about any off-road terrain. Also a set of Swamper radials for>every day driving.> Engine (type, size, induction): Ford 302 V8, EFI. Not that I have
anything against Chevys but I like the compact size of the Ford and the
fact that the distributor is up front and not jammed against the fire>wall. Besides that it's a little unusual to go Ford instead of GM.> Tranny: My first choice would be the NV4500 for the low 1st gear and
overdrive 5th, however it may be too long in an '80 SB with dual 'cases.
A second strong possibility would be a Ford T-18 (also has low 1st but
not OD), which may be a better choice to maintain a workable overall>length for the tranny/transfer assembly.> Transfer Case(s): Dual cases with stock gears in front case and Marlin
gears in the rear case. Nothing like lots of sticks on the floor and>plenty of gear combination choices!> Adapters (if any): I'm not sure what is needed to adapt the 302 to the
NV4500, but I suppose a bell housing adapter and some kind of hybrid
clutch assembly. In the case of either the NV4500 or the T-18 a tranny
to Toy transfer adapter is needed.> Front Axle (type, TAD, gear ratio): Toyota, upgraded to vented brake>rotors, ARB, 4.88 gears.> Rear Axle (type, TAD, gear ratio): Toyota, upgraded to disk brakes,>ARB, 4.88 gears.
Other stuff: The old '80 toy would also require the following upgrades:
PS, AC, complete gauges, new interior and paint, and finally an OME
suspension lift (I understand that they are now available for US Toys),
and a full cage.> Particular reasons for your choices? Not the biggest and the baddest
but appeals to me as being "cool". Also this would provide plenty of
capability for just about any off-road adventure that I would be likely
to tackle (and maybe more).>Locke> ------------------------------
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 1997 08:48 -0600 (MDT)
From: "JC Nordyke" Subject: 35" vs 33"
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Wil wrote:>35" advantages: The 2" of extra height makes an unbelievable difference>in ground clearance, and the 35's seem to have superior traction
- -----------------------
Just a note of clarification. Even though the tire is 2" taller, you
don't actually gain 2" of ground clearance. You only gain 1" of ground
clearance and you lose 1" of fender clearance.
JC Nordyke KC0BKC
TLCA #2921
jc.nordyke@mci.com
'86 Shortie Pickup '88 4Runner
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 1997 10:33:52 -0500
From: billm@usa.compass-analysis.com
Subject: Bear with me.. rebuttal
To: toy4x4@tlca.org
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 1997 15:12:46 -0700
From: Eric Stegall Subject: Bear with me please...(long)
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org>...and I believe that there is a market for them out here for the
harder-core 4 wheelers out there.> I think the REAL hard core 4 wheelers are the people who build their =20
4WDs,
not buy them. And these hard core wheelers use Toyota's, not UNISMOG's.
What you say has some merit, Eric. Having traveled a fair amount I can =20
tell you that while I have had 4 wheelers in the past (Bronco's, Jeeps =20
and my current passion my 1990 4Runner) I can tell you that I can accept =20
the limitations of these vehicles. Perhaps I mis-spoke when I used the =20
term "hard-core". I did not mean to offend anyone and I am sorry if I =20
did but, let me explain myself. I have traveled extensively and can tell =20=
=20
you the following. In the middle east, In remote parts of Europe, South =20
Africa, Sweden, South America, Australia, and even our neighbors to the =20
north, Canada,.. If there is a location where not getting there could =20
cost human lives or Millions of dollars (oil industry etc),.. you will =20
not see a Toyota. What you will see is a UNIMOG. Over the decades, =20
these vehicles have been used everyplace where it has been PROVEN nothing =20=
=20
else can go. Not Toyotas, Not LandCruisers/Rovers, Not Humvees. We are =20
talking vehicles that can climb 100% grades, ford several feet of water, =20
can climb over 2.5-3 foot ledges etc. without modification. I have =20
personally seen one pull two Land Rovers out of a massive mud pit at the =20
same time. Add to this the fact that you have low crawl ratios =20
approaching 100-1 and higher, Massive Mercedes Truck Diesels and Portal =20
axles (approaching 118-20" of clearance on some models) and you have a =20
vehicle that can pretty much go anywhere, anytime. This is a vehcle that =20=
=20
is recognized worldwide as the premier off road, life saving (when set up =20=
=20
with the ambulance kit) and remote research and expedition vehicle.
So by "hard core" I meant the people whose very lives depend on their =20
vehicle, and the people who are tasked to go out and save the lives of =20
people in, not neccesarily lesser, but different "recreational" =20
vehicles.
Enough said on that subject. A few years ago I did see a Toyota Land =20
Cruiser in Sweden that was set up with a massive lift and 44" tires that =20
was being used (allegedly) by Ski Rescue... HOT! I also saw it here in =20
the states on some web page that showed it with a blonde swedish girl in =20
a bikini standing on it.. HOTTER!
-Bill Miranda
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 1997 11:20:28 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Dr. Karl Bellve" Subject: Bear with me.. rebuttal
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
On Thu, 31 Jul 1997 billm@usa.compass-analysis.com wrote:> else can go. Not Toyotas, Not LandCruisers/Rovers, Not Humvees. We are =20> talking vehicles that can climb 100% grades, ford several feet of water, =20
Wow. 100 % grades. I am impressed.
Dr. Karl Bellve
Biomedical Imaging Group
University of Massachusetts
WWW : http://molmed.ummed.edu/~kdb/
Email: kdb@molmed.ummed.edu
Phone: (508) 856-3785
Fax : (508) 856-1840
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 1997 07:30:28 -0700
From: Eric Stegall Subject: Bear with me please...
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Sorry, I did not mean to badger anyone or put any vehicle down, but I just
couldn't resist. Oops.
- --Eric
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 1997 09:11:28 -0400
From: Thomas Olenio Subject: Blown Head Gasket ?
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Hello,
It appears that I am very lucky... My neighbor just gave me his 1985
Toyota pickup. I don't think he knew what he had, if half of what I
read in the digest is true.
My question is in regards to blown head gaskets. The engine is a 22R,
no EFI, 4wd, 132,000 miles and I have found some oil in the radiator and
coolant in the oil.
The engine was running fine when the prior owner pulled over on the
highway for 2 minutes. When he got back in the engine was running hot
(not in red though). He drove the 2 miles home, shut it off and gave it
to me when he saw the coolant in the oil. The engine never went into
the red).
I have heard that sometimes timing chains can rub a hole in the case of
the 22R engine and cause this problem. Any truth to that story?
Are there any common problems or reasons (other than just high mileage
and wear) that the 22R engine has in regards to the problem I describe?
Looking forward to getting my Toyota back on the road.
Tom
tolenio@world.std.com
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 97 09:40:00 -0500
From: Rosenberger Bud Subject: Blown Head Gasket ?
To: "mail@UUCP {Toy4x4@tlca.org}" Lucky you! I have an 85 with a 22r in the barn with a blown head gasket.
No oil in the coolant but oil is milky and it steams when running. You
can do a head gasket in about 10 hours using a flashlight under your chin
while parked at the curb starting at 11:00 pm in Tennessee while on
vacation and youre 1300 miles from home! I had to rent a torque wrench
but it all went well:) (except that I had a clogged radiator and
overheated and blew it again after about 2 hours of driving:( )
Yes the chain can wear thru, and you should probably change it if you do
replace the head gasket.
Just pull the plugs and look at them. It should be obvious if one or 2
are all wet/smell bad/look bad. If they all look OK, pull the valve
cover off and look at the chain, tensioners, case. You should be able to
see the troubles.
Others??
Bud
----------
From: Thomas Olenio
Sent: Thursday, July 31, 1997 9:11 AM
To: Rosenber; 'mail@UUCP '
Subject: Blown Head Gasket ?
Hello,
It appears that I am very lucky... My neighbor just gave me his 1985
Toyota pickup. I don't think he knew what he had, if half of what I
read in the digest is true.
My question is in regards to blown head gaskets. The engine is a 22R,
no EFI, 4wd, 132,000 miles and I have found some oil in the radiator and
coolant in the oil.
The engine was running fine when the prior owner pulled over on the
highway for 2 minutes. When he got back in the engine was running hot
(not in red though). He drove the 2 miles home, shut it off and gave it
to me when he saw the coolant in the oil. The engine never went into
the red).
I have heard that sometimes timing chains can rub a hole in the case of
the 22R engine and cause this problem. Any truth to that story?
Are there any common problems or reasons (other than just high mileage
and wear) that the 22R engine has in regards to the problem I describe?
Looking forward to getting my Toyota back on the road.
Tom
tolenio@world.std.com
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 1997 07:01:22
From: Ed Ruf Subject: Charge light
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
AT 22:49 7/30/97 -0700, Todd and Terry wrote:>I've got an intermitent problem with my 87 22R pickup. Running the road at>65, stereo on and headlights, I'm getting an intermitent glow from my>charge light and brake light. If I slow to 55 it usually stops.>Alternator is putting out 57 A, 13.47 V. A friend told me that it's my>voltage regulator. Alternator was rebuilt just over a year ago. Anybody>got any ideas.
|From the annals of the old toy-l faq:
SECTION 3.0: ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS
+3.1: Alternator repairs
If the charge light AND brake light on your dash come on and stay on,
the culprit is a problem in your charging system. When these lights
come on, it means your battery is not charging. These lights will
rarely signify a battery being at fault though. Most often, the
alternator belt is slipping or the alternator brushes are worn and the
alternator is not putting out enough voltage. When the output of the
alternator drops below 12 volts, a relay kicks in and your dash lights
come on. List members have noted brush failure from between 60000 miles
and 120000 miles with an average life of about 100000 miles.
Your choices:
1.) Go to a shop and get hammered for about $200 for a rebuilt alternator.
2.) Go to a discount parts house and get a rebuilt alternator with a
lifetime (HAHA!) warranty for about $75.
3.) Go to a discount parts house and get a new set of brushes for about
$4.50. Install and drive another 100000 miles.
The brushes available from Toyota run about $12 for a pair, but generic
ones are just as good. There are now brush "assemblies" available as
well for some Toyota alternators. These are for those who are not handy
with a soldering iron or are lazy. Check with your Toyota dealer (or
one of the dealers on the Toyota Pages) for availability. Instead of
soldering the new brushes in place, you simply snap in a new brush
assembly.
If you can operate a soldering iron, or are willing to try, do number 3.
The only other things that go wrong are the coil fusing, bearing
failure, and the little resistor pack burning out. However, these
rarely fail. The brushes just simply wear down to nothing.
Disassembly of the alternator:
Remove the alternator from the car and remove back cover (the side
opposite the one with the pulley). This is often easier said than done
as nuts and bolts have a way of not loosening when you want them to.
You may wish to soak the pivot and tightening nuts with penetrating oil
if you are having difficulty removing them. When removing the cover, if
your model has phillips head screws, be warned that the screw heads
strip very easily. I STRONGLY advise you use an impact screwdriver to
remove the screws before even trying to with a regular screwdriver.
Impact screwdrivers are available at Sears for a little under $20 and
can be had elsewhere for slightly less.
Desolder the old brushes being careful not to let the springs get away
from you as the solder lets go. Note that Toyota uses a
high-temperature solder in most alternators, so you will have to allow
the old solder to heat up well. Solder in the new brushes with the
springs in place (which takes a little manual dexterity). Using a
toothpick or straightened paperclip, push the brushes down and slide the
pick/clip through the holes provided to hold the brushes down (starting
from outside of the casing). Put the alternator back together. Remove
the pick/clip. You should hear two distinct "clicks" as the brushes
drop into place. If you need to use additional solder, make sure you
use a high-temp type and not the 60/40 solder found at Radio Shack.
Install the alternator back into the car. Make sure you tension the
belt as directed in your owners manual. Tension and tension adjustment
methods vary from car to car, but a loose belt can cause your warning
lights to come back on and a tight belt can harm the alternator,
possibly causing bearing failure.
Save the impact screwdriver for your next job. These come in very
handy. If you already had one, you're ahead of the game.
contributing: Chris Myer (cmyer@su102a.ess.harris.com)
Aaron Lung (lung@san-jose.ate.slb.com)
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 1997 10:16:59 +0200
From: Jack Alford Subject: Charge light
To: >Alternator is putting out 57 A, 13.47 V. A friend told me that it's my>voltage regulator. Alternator was rebuilt just over a year ago. Anybody>got any ideas.
How/what type load did you put on the alternator to verify it was putting out
57 amps ?
- jack
------------------------------
Date: 31 Jul 1997 12:57:38 -0700
From: Robert Elsemore Subject: Charge light
To: tntsteel@kingsnet.com (Return requested),>65, stereo on and headlights, I'm getting an intermittent glow from my>charge light and brake light. If I slow to 55 it usually stops.
I would guess that you have a bad diode in your rectifier assembly.
Unfortunate for you, individual diodes cannot be replaced. Have a
alternator/starter shop check it out for you. That service is usually
free.
- -Rob Elsemore, 85 4Runner ------------------------------
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 1997 11:37:38 -0600
From: dicknu@usa.net
Subject: Cruise Control information:
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Can anyone point me toward a source of information about
cruise controls? I have in mind trying to modify the cruise
on my '90 Toy SR5 v6 PU truck. I am thinking of trying to
change the drop out speeds (from 10 to, say 20 mph) and
to have the system remember the last speed it was
set to for all situations except reset, and dropping below
the minimum speed.
Thanks
dickn'
RAVEN Home PC Consulting (303)452-3089 USA
Dick NUTTALL 11459 Irma Dr. Northglenn CO 80233-2169
http:/www.geocities.com/Athens/1835 mialto:dicknu@usa.net
mailto:dickn@super.zippo.com http://super.zippo.com/~dicknu
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 1997 05:38:17 -0500
From: Chris & Nicki Yorke Subject: gearing
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Saw something in the Downey catalog the other day that recalibrates the
speedo. I am sure there are other.
Chris
yorke@bellsouth.net
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 1997 09:15:38 -0700 (PDT)
From: Kevin Valentine Subject: H4 Headlights
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Ok I recieved my H4 headlights and installed the H4 bulbs inside the lens.
It is a really cool setup.
I have not installed the assemblies into my truck yet however.
Now I'm worried about the wattage I selected. I went with the 100/80 w
halogen H4's.
Has anyone used these? Did they burn up any wiring? Were they entirely
too bright for use on public roads (blinding oncoming)?
I believe the stock lights are like 35/60w or something but it is a sealed
beam halogen that does not direct the light as well, right?
I'm outta here (hoping my new lights are not going to give oncoming
drivers a sunburn or give my truck some new pyrotechnic features)...
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 1997 10:06:21 PDT
From: "Boyd,Tom" Subject: H4 Headlights
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Somebody wrote:(sorry, I can't "see" who the sender is)
"Now I'm worried about the wattage I selected. I went with the 100/80 w
halogen H4's.
Has anyone used these? Did they burn up any wiring? Were they entirely
too bright for use on public roads (blinding oncoming)?"
I have the H4 headlights and I didn't use the bulbs that came with them
which are what? 50/60? Anyway, I think I put in the 60/80s and they
are muy bright-o. I also worry about blinding oncoming drivers so I
pointed them down and to the right. You can actually see where the
beam cuts, and I mean cuts, the dark in half. I tried to aim them
down (through approximations) below the face of oncoming drivers.
However, drivers of the lowered Japanese cars still get some in the
face. I aimed the drivers side light inward toward the passenger side
while the passenger side light aims straight ahead. I haven't had any
complaints or tickets yet (knock on wood). However, driving North on
Interstate 5 going toward San Francisco one night with the brights on,
I was flashed by truckers\ to turn down the brights who were on the
South bound which was about 100 yards away on my left . So be careful
'cause they are "Hella" bright.
Regards,
Tom Boyd
San Mateo, CA
'86 4Runner
Tom_Boyd@pa.xerox.com
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 1997 07:59:29 -0500
From: "James E Triplett" Subject: Hauling Mountain Bikes
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org, nickkrest@batnet.com
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Nick Krest wrote:
Somebody wrote:
"I am interested in finding out if anyone has done
anything creative in an effort to haul bicycles around
in the back of their trucks."
I have a Cannondale bike mount for trucks which I can't use anymore
because of the lo-boy shell I've put on. It uses a threaded rod (like a
Yakima) to put pressure against two rubber-coated L-brackets, which press
against the inside of the bed lip. Like a Yakima, it uses two QR skewers
to hold the forks steady, and has two wheel forks, too. I see no reason
why it would be incompatible with bedliners, and I'll sell it for $40.
You pay the shipping.
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
This sounds interesting... I looked in the Performance Catalog and decided
I really didn't like the "even with the rail" bike hauling position. I
suppose you could slide the "Burley" trailer and the front (bicycle) tires
under the rack, but it seems like an awful lot of apparatus to haul
50-60lbs of bikes. Besides, the cab of the truck is already slamming into
the wind, I don't really want the bikes up higher than the cab (even if it
is just part of each bike).
I saw exactly what I am looking for at Target. However, it was their bike
display and not for sale. It consisted of an inverted "top hat" shaped
(cross section) rail, with an adjustable "stop" at one end and an
adjustable wire (1/2"dia) which looped around one of the tires. Two of
these could be mounted to a couple of 2X6's and laid flat in the bed. Just
what I need but I don't know if I'm up for building one. The other thing I
discovered at Target was some plastic "magazine files", and a plastic soda
can dispenser. Both had about the right amount of space for a bike tire.
This could work (mounted to one 2X6), but may be too flimsy.
My next exploration is going to be to look at some PVC pipe at the lumber
yard. I would think that between all the dish drying racks, child safety
gates, shower shelves, and lumber yard materials, I could come up with
something. Actually what I *really* want is just a bike rack like they
have at the library or the mall, except only three bikes wide.
Enough rambling... Sorry for the bandwidth consumption. BTW, too bad Jay
Kopycinski limited the $$$ on ** The Ultimate Toy **... I'd just go buy a
new LandCruiser. (There's one "on sale" for $8K off the sticker - or only
$47K - at the local dealer.) Awesome! I guess I would add a winch bumper,
trick out the 3.4L with any and all performance upgrades, and spend the
rest on stereo equipment for my T100. Basically I love the thing pretty
much stock (with 31" tires).
Done! Sorry! Bye...
- -Jet-> James E. Triplett
1996 T-100 - 5 Spd - XtraCab - Evergreen Pearl (one year old on Sunday)
jetriple@collins.rockwell.com
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 1997 13:41:17 -0400
From: David Stracher Subject: Hauling Mountain Bikes
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
I use a set of Bike Tights mounted to a 1x6. On the back side of the 1x6
tack (or glue) an old inner tube sliced open to prevent the board from
sliding. (You can use carpet instead). No need to physically attach the
board to the bed with this setup. Bike tights are simply fork mounts on a
small fixture that allows easy attachment to a board.
Also you can mount a couple of Yakima Wheel holders to the same board to
put the front tires. I use this setup because it can easily be swapped
between my Forerunner and friends pickups.
Dave Stracher
djstracher@bbn.com
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 1997 09:06:52 -0700 (PDT)
From: Kevin Valentine Subject: Horn Installation Info.
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Hi list members:
I just received my air horns/compressor from JC Whitney and realized that
I should have listened more closely to those of you who have talked about
this recently. I got the Fiamm horns (they are blue) as is the
compressor. The kit appears to include everything but the wire and
connectors.
Can anyone repost or send direct to me the instructions for installing
this horn kit. The instructions on the package are terrible. I guess the
biggest thing I'm wondering about is how you locate the wire from the horn
button in your steering wheel to connect it to to the new horn relay.
Any info. is much appreciated.
Thanks
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 1997 09:34:57 -0700
From: Scott Wilson Subject: Horn Installation Info.
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org, kvalenti@potlatch.esd112.wednet.edu
Kevin Valentine wrote:> I just received my air horns/compressor from JC Whitney and realized that> I should have listened more closely to those of you who have talked about> this recently. I got the Fiamm horns (they are blue) as is the> compressor. The kit appears to include everything but the wire and> connectors.
Just check out my web page. I did a whole separte section on air horns,
and included a wiring diagram. :)
Scott
- --
_____
/_/_|_\__ Scott Wilson
| _ _ : Santa Clara, CA
*/_\---/_\' http://www.scruz.net/~barneym/scott
(_) (_)
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 1997 14:16:54 -0700
From: "Farrales, Deo" Subject: Pismo Advice
To: "'swilson@pacbell.net'" ,
Hey Scott,
I haven't heard any news about Pismo!!! We're planning to go down there
at the end of August. Any advice? How was camping in the dunes?
Weather?
Thanks,
Deo F. 1992 4Runner V6, 31's, 4.56, original HG (all stock, so far...)
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 1997 13:33:49 -0600
From: Jeffrey Delzer Subject: Shift points
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org> From: Steve Capuano > Subject: Shift points>> What is the theory on shifting? I know that torque levels off and drops before> horsepower peaks, but what is the happy medium? I can drive the piss out of my> truck, but I dont know when to shift properly. Anotherwords my engine sees red> alot.
I don't race or tow or haul much of anything with my truck, ('94 SR5 V6
5-speed), it's just my only means of transportation year round, rain
snow or shine. I've always shifted at 3000 RPM because that's where it
feels like the power is very noticeably dropping off, and the next
higher gear pulls fine at that point. The only time I run the engine
over 3000 RPM is in 4th and 5th gears where it has a steady load on it.
Redline is way up around 5700 (I think?), but I've never been close to
that. I can only remember seeing about 4400 RPM one time when I was
trying to get to Columbia, SC, before everyone I was visiting went to
bed. Oh yeah, I was also following a gorgeous blonde in a red camaro,
but that's a whole different story. For cruising around town, it seems
to be most comfortable and responsive between 2000-3000 RPM, so that's
where I keep it.
Jeff Delzer
'94 SR5 V6 Xtracab Pickup
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 1997 11:02:05 -0500
From: billm@usa.compass-analysis.com
Subject: Subject: Bear with me please...
To: toy4x4@tlca.org>Don't flame me for posting this as, as I stated above, I am just sending =20=
=20
=3D20>out a feeler and will NOT be posting anything like this again.
I welcome differences of opinion, I just didn't want someone to go into a =20=
=20
tirade along the "toyota rules" line. (i've seen this on the J**p sites).
I will check into All NATO surplus vehicles. I was thinking of =20
specializing in 'MOGS because they're unique and i've seen them work. I =20
don't know if the Toyotas can come in because, if they're 1970 and above =20
vintage, they have to meet emissions ($$$). I know that the newer =20
vehicles sold and used over there are smog legal (at least the german =20
ones are) and eventually all european car makers will be building =20
vehicles that are legal for use here,.. it's cheaper than building =20
market-specific vehicle and we are the #1 market for ALL car makers =20
(except of course for peugeot... those kooky French!)
If you all on this list wish, I will keep you updated (hopefully not in =20
such wordy messages)
-Bill Miranda>>Thanks for your patience,>>Bill Miranda>1990 4Runner SR5/V6
How come? Difference is interesting, and diversity reduces monotony. Can =20=
=20
your friend or you get any NATO Toyotas? I've seen a web site (Gibraltar =20=
=20
Toyota stock holdings) that sells Toyotas for this sort of purpose.
Thanks,
Brendan
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 1997 08:48:47 -0400
From: john skaggs Subject: Suspension Install Update
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Well it starts out good but it gets worse as time goes on.
The good part.. 6/28/97 Talked the BOSS(wife) into getting new suspension for
the 4Runner, called RMOR and ordered it, they send it.
The bad part.. 7/1-7/14 Tracked on the net thru UPS web page, saw it leave Grand
Junction and go to Denver then saw half of it leave Denver and go back to Grand
Junction, while the other half sits in Denver 8 days (UGH!). Called RMOR and
UPS and push UPS into action.
The good part.. 7/15 The suspension gets here after going around in circles.
7/18 Start installing the lift. I started with the rear. Had a few problems
because of the rusty bolts becoming one with the rubber bushings, but it went
pretty good once I got out the sawzall to cut the bolts. The new rear springs
went in without to many problems, actually the only problems I had was because I
had no help. The RS 9000's bushings gave me a little problem but not to much.
The bad part.. 7/19 I get ready to start on the front and I look at the new
springs, one of them has 4" written on it and the other has 5" written on it.
There supposed to both be 5". I call RMOR and tell them this, they said Oh $hit
sorry we'll find out what happened. They found out that they got one of my
springs mixed up with someone elses. My other spring got sent to Minnesota.
They call this guy and he was supposed to have sent it back to RMOR on 7/19.
Well it's 7/31 now and RMOR still doesn't have my other spring and my 4Runner is
still sitting in the garage with it's head held down low.
If you've read this far, I would like to ask you a question. I like the guys at
RMOR and have no hard feelings toward them but I'm getting tired of driving my
wifes little Mazda to work.
Would I be asking to much of RMOR if I asked them to just make me another spring
and send it to me? I am getting really tired of waiting for this other guy. I
have already sent back the wrong spring on 7/21 (RMOR paid for shipping back)
Thanks for any opinions,
John Skaggs
TLCA# 5560
85 4Runner (gettin taller soon) still only halfway there
Akron, Ohio
John.Skaggs@ab.com
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 1997 09:24:15 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Dr. Karl Bellve" Subject: Suspension Install Update
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
On Thu, 31 Jul 1997, john skaggs wrote:> springs, one of them has 4" written on it and the other has 5" written on it.> There supposed to both be 5". I call RMOR and tell them this, they said Oh $hit> sorry we'll find out what happened. They found out that they got one of my
I thought the driver side spring is supposed to be arched 1 inch more than
the passenger side. Are you sure they screwed up (not counting what they
said) ? The front springs are supposed to be arched differently (left and
right hand springs).
Dr. Karl Bellve
Biomedical Imaging Group
University of Massachusetts
WWW : http://molmed.ummed.edu/~kdb/
Email: kdb@molmed.ummed.edu
Phone: (508) 856-3785
Fax : (508) 856-1840
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 1997 10:03:16 -0400
From: john skaggs Subject: Suspension Install Update
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org> I thought the driver side spring is supposed to be arched 1 inch more than> the passenger side. Are you sure they screwed up (not counting what they> said) ? The front springs are supposed to be arched differently (left and> right hand springs).>>>> Dr. Karl Bellve
You are right sort of, but I don't believe that the difference is a full inch
though. And yes RMOR does take into account the difference between the front
springs. They have a 5" right side spring and a 5" left spring. The springs I
got were 4" right spring and a 5" right spring.
John Skaggs
TLCA# 5560
85 4Runner (gettin taller soon) still only halfway there
Akron, Ohio
John.Skaggs@ab.com
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 1997 09:05:26 -0700
From: Dan Merrick Subject: toy 4x4
To: toy4x4@tlca.org
I HATE TO SOUND LIKE A COUCH POTATO, BUT I WAS WATCHING TV LAST NIGHT, SOME
SHOW IN AUSTRALIA ON "THE ANIMAL PLANET" CHANNEL(???). IT WAS A SHOW ABOUT
SOME AUSTRALIAN REDNECK AND SOME AMERICAN CHICK DRIVING THROUGH THE
"OUTBACK".. BUT THAT DOESN'T MATTER. THE POINT I AM TRYING TO MAKE IS THAT
THEIR CROSS COUNTRY TRANSPORTATION WAS A NEWER (89-94) TOYOTA PICKUP. WELL,
THIS PICKUP WAS TRICKED OUT!! ARB BULL BAR, ACCESSORY LIGHTS, UTILITY FLAT
BED WITH CANVAS COVER (SORT OF LIKE A SOFT CAMPER SHELL)...AND A STRAIGHT
AXLE FRONT SUSPENSION!!! I THINK IT WAS A DIESEL TOO...MAYBE I'LL MOVE TO
AUSTRALIA.
ON A DIFFERENT NOTE...DOES ANYONE HAVE EXPERIENCE WITH REMOVING THE
OVERLOAD LEAF IN AN OLDER (85) TOY. I HAVE SEEN A REPLACEMENT SPRING IN
"DOWNEY" THAT SAYS IT REPLACES THE OVERLOAD SPRING FOR MORE PROGRESSIVE,
SOFTER RIDE (MORE TRAVEL??) I DON'T WANT SOME CUSTOM SET-UP WITH SWAPPED IN
SPRINGS FROM SOME OTHER MODEL TRUCK, JUST A CHEAP ($50-100) WAY TO GET GOOD
SUSPENSION TRAVEL AND A GOOD HIGHWAY RIDE. OH, I HAVE AN 85 SHORTBED, 2"
SHACKLES, RANCHO RS 9000'S.
ANY HELP IS APPRECIATED!
DAN
(ddm@heartport.com)
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 1997 10:37:20 -0700
From: "Greg/Becky Graves" Subject: Toyota 4x4 Magazine
To: Does anyone know if there are any magazines out there devoted to Toyota 4x4
owners? Also I have a 93 4Runner with factory 31" tires and wondered what
the gear ratio is that the factory has installed.The factory brochure
stated that the 31" tire option got you 4.88 gears with an automatic trans.
I tried on a set of 32" tires and the truck was pretty soggy on the bottom
end. It seems that the gear ratio that has been installed at the factory
just can't be as steep as the brochure states.ggraves@az.com
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 1997 15:05:21 -0500
From: Brian Gallus Subject: Ultimate Toyota
To: "'toy4x4@tlca.org'" Your basic use: Rock, rock and more rock>> Tire size: 35-12.50-15 BFG MT's>> Engine (type, size, induction): Chevy 4.3, EFI>> Tranny: NV 4500>> Transfer Case(s): Double Marlin with 4.70 gears>> Adapters (if any):>> Front Axle (type, TAD, gear ratio): Dana 44, ARB, 5.29>> Rear Axle (type, TAD, gear ratio): Dana 60, ARB, 5.29>> Particular reasons for your choices? Strength and crawl ration,
tired of
bouncing and breaking.
Pretty much sums it up, doesn't it? I personally would change the
Marlin with dual 4.70's to a Marlin with 1 4.70 case - gives a better
range of ratio's in my opinion. Besides, there's really nothing in
MN that would require a 350+ crawl ratio... The only real change
that I'd make would be to use Ford 9" axles instead of the Dana's -
make the rear a full floater with Wilwood Disc's and make them both
3" wider than stock (same with as the IFS axles) - just like 'em
better. I'd also make mine a shortbox with an extra cab body and
shorty box.
Sorry Jay, just don't think that I could stay under the price you
set... I hate when money limits my dreams.
_______________________________________
Brian K. Gallus
Network Administrator
Dynamark, Inc.
BrianGallus@Dynamark.com
_______________________________________
------------------------------
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