Toy4x4 Digest          Sat, 10 May 97 00:30:01 (HST)  Volume 1 : Issue 177
Today's Topics:
 18RG? (2 msgs)
 1980 20R head on 1986 California 22R
 33 inchers on 15x8's
 3 inch springs, Downey or N
 3 inch springs, Downey or Northwest? (2 msgs)
 adjustable cam/ignition timing (3 msgs)
 Back-Up Bulbs
 Bio reply
 CB/Ash Tray
 dropping diff = more severe driveline angle??? (3 msgs)
 Hand Winch (2 msgs)
 heavy duty floor mats, rust
 Help! -- spring bushings (3 msgs)
 IFS bump stop spacing (5 msgs)
 More Poop on HP
 Splitfire Plugs (2 msgs)
 Toy4x4 Digest V1 #175
 Trans cooler
 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Fri, 9 May 1997 20:01:49 -0400 (EDT)
From: Spinnetti@aol.com
Subject: 18RG?
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
In a message dated 5/9/97 3:36:00 AM, you wrote:
>How hard was that swap? Thats an old Supra motor isn't it? What kind of
torque/horsepower
>do you get from it?
straight bolt in, with only minor adjustments. The motor came with all the
accessories. This motor was never sold in the US. It is based on the old 18RC
Celica/Truck motor, only with a Yamaha designed twin cam, 8 valve head and
dual sidedraft Mikunis stock! they make 140hp stock, and make 200hp easy with
just cams and pistons.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 9 May 1997 20:06:25 -0400 (EDT)
From: Spinnetti@aol.com
Subject: 18RG?
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
In a message dated 5/9/97 3:55:11 PM, you wrote:
>I understand that one of the heads was designed by Yamaha  - kinda like
>a Yota SHO project eh?
>
>EWong
Actually ALL of Toyotas twin cam heads are done by Yamaha! (the guts of the
18R and 20R are different)
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 10 May 1997 00:18:07 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jonathan Albrecht 
Subject: 1980 20R head on 1986 California 22R
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Just got back from another afternoon at the junkyards.  Got some more
misc. interior grey parts and pieces, a new instrument panel, and.. a
1980 20R head.
Okay, first off, the instrument panel:  This is awesome!  Forget what I
said about custom mounting a tachometer to the steering column.  For
about the same price you can get a totally stock factory instrument
panel with all the goodies on it, and just about everything works.  I
checked, all the lights and everything seems to work.  The only thing
that doesn't is the oil pressure gauge.  What exactly do I need to get
and where do I need to plug it in?
Thanks a lot, Michael, for telling me about this mod, and the names of
places to get it!
Okay, and the other big item:  The 20R head.  I went out in there pile
and looked through what they had, and ended up getting pretty much a
totally bare 20r head.  It's got the valves/springs (still installed),
and the cam shaft bearing caps--that's about it.  But it looks in okay
shape, and it's warrantied to be rebuildable, so I guess it's okay.
The question:  Now what?  The head is off a 1980 toy p/u (20R), and it's
going on a 1986 Calif. 22R (with a header, a Weber, and no emmisions
stuff left, if it matters..). So what needs to be done to make this head
bolt on?  Are there any other parts/pieces I need to get to make this
work?
Also, I've asked before, but I lost the messages, what gaskets do I need
for:  The valve cover, head gasket, and intake manifold gasket?
I'm wondering if I didn't go in over my head on this one...
Any (and I mean any) opinions, ideas, suggestions, anything, would be
really appreciated!  I've never pulled an engine apart before (but
luckilly I know people who have), so I need all the help I can get!
Thanks,
__
Jonathan Albrecht
albr9619@uidaho.edu
http://www.uidaho.edu/~albr9619/
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 10 May 1997 01:19:50 -0700
From: "Michael Medart" 
Subject: 33 inchers on 15x8's
To: "Toyota 4x4 (TLCA)" 
>toy and plan on mounting 33"BFG all terrains on an 8" rim. My question is
can
>I mount 12.5"tires on my 8" rims and get good tread wear? I''ve read about
>lots of trail rigs set up this way but I don't know anyone personally who
>has. I think the 9.5"all terrains look a little thin. Personal opinion. I
I have 33x12.50 BFG Muds on 15x8 American Racing rims and they work
great.  Wear pattern is excellent.  The WHOLE tire sits on the ground at
street pressure (even wear).
I went with 15x8's to tuck and protect the rims from damage.
Do you want to get REALLY GOOD tread wear?  Install a set of ARB's
or at least a rear ARB and a front locker.  After living with only a rear
Air
Locker for 7 years I went with a front Detroit EZ Locker about a year ago
(along with a new set of 33" BFG's).  After a year of wheelin' and drivin'
I've noticed a *BIG* difference in tread wear; There dosen't appear to be
ANY wear!  With the additional locker I have literally NEVER spun a tire
off-road, and that makes a big difference in tread life.  Try it, you'll
like it!
\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\
Michael Medart, Ventura, CA bigblue@anacapa.net
1988 Toyota 4x4 X-Tra Cab V-6, Rancho/Downey
lift, 4.88 gears, Detroit E-Z locker, ARB Air Locker
Rancho RS 9000's w/remote, Con-Fer shackles/
skid plates and roof rack, 33" BFG Muds. RTI: 651
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
------------------------------
Date: 9 May 1997 15:49:29 -0700
From: "Jay Kopycinski" 
Subject: 3 inch springs, Downey or N
To: "Toyota 4x4 List"  Subject:                              Time:  3:38 PM
 OFFICE MEMO         3 inch springs, Downey or Northwest?  Date:  5/9/97
Dr. Karl Bellve wrote:
>I am about to buy 3 inch springs for my 1985 4Runner. I had Northwest
>Off Road 2 inch spring system (rear add a leaf) on my old 1985 4Runner. I
>broke a leaf in the front and one of the rear add a leafs driving in deep
>sand on Assategue (MD). I am now going to get the 3 inch springs for my
>new truck either from Downey or Northwest. I think I am leaning towards
>Downey because they are NHK springs and seemed to be reinforced better.
>Anyone have opinions on this?
The NWOR ones are very stiff. They use only three thick leaves. They are
cheap though. The Downey ones are better but will sag out over time.
________________________________________
Jay Kopycinski    '85 Toylet (ROKTOY)   '91 4Runner
Gilbert, AZ
ryna10@email.sps.mot.com
http://www.netzone.com/~jayk
Arizona Lo-Rangers 4WD Club            TLCA #3243
________________________________________
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 9 May 1997 22:06:25 -0700
From: nickkrest@batnet.com (Nick Krest)
Subject: 3 inch springs, Downey or Northwest?
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Dr. Karl Bellve  wrote:
 "I am about to buy 3 inch springs for my
 1985 4Runner...I am now going to get the
 3 inch springs for my new truck either
 from Downey or Northwest. I think I am
 leaning towards Downey because they are
 NHK springs and seemed to be reinforced
 better."
If your choice is only Downey or NWOR, I would go Downey.
Reasons:
1. I have Downey 3" front springs in my truck now. I like 'em a lot. I
think they're a great spring for the price, and I think the Downey people
run the operation pretty fairly (aberrations aside).
2. NWOR seems to be run by a bunch of charlatans. I've never heard a good
word spoken or written about them. Maybe if we don't give them our
business, they will either wise up or go out of business.
However, if my choice was wide-open, I think I would go with the Alcan
springs from Rocky Mountain Off-Road. Pricey at three hundred frogskins a
pair, but quality built to your specs. Five-leaf fronts and seven-leaf
rears, military-wrap spring eyes, greasable teflon inserts, urethane
bushings, and your choice of lift heights - anything from 0" - 4".
 - Nick
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 9 May 1997 23:31:09 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jonathan Albrecht 
Subject: 3 inch springs, Downey or Northwest?
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
> sand on Assategue (MD). I am now going to get the 3 inch springs for my
> new truck either from Downey or Northwest. I think I am leaning towards
> Downey because they are NHK springs and seemed to be reinforced better.
> Anyone have opinions on this?
I was kinda curious too.. and I couldn't really decide (between Downey
and Skyjacker--I'd heard a few random negative things about the NWOR),
and I went Skyjacker.  Really, the only reason was because I sorta
wanted more than 3" of lift (I ordered the 4" rear springs).  I'll let
you know how they do when I get them on.
__
Jonathan Albrecht
albr9619@uidaho.edu
http://www.uidaho.edu/~albr9619/
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 9 May 1997 15:47:41 -0700
From: Locke Christman 
Subject: adjustable cam/ignition timing
To: "'Toy4x4@tlca.org'" 
Ed Ruf Wrote:
>
>Ok, next question. You mentioned you had the valves ground at ~100K, so we
>know the head came off for that. Has the ignition timing ever been checked
>after that and found to be correct? If not , possibly the cam was indexed
>incorrectly when it was re-assembled after the valve job. I don't remember
>offhand want 1 tooth off on the cam/crank alignment corresponds to in
>degrees. Anyone have a camshaft drive gear handy to count the # of teeth to
>find out?
Ed,
Actually it was the previous owner that had the valves ground so I do
not know the answer to your first question.  You have an interesting
point regarding the cam/crank alignment.
Locke
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 9 May 1997 20:12:38 -0400 (EDT)
From: Spinnetti@aol.com
Subject: adjustable cam/ignition timing
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
In a message dated 5/9/97 5:35:20 PM, you wrote:
>So now I come to my question.  If the cam were advanced with an
>adjustable sprocket, would this also advance the ignition timing since
>the distributor runs off of the cam shaft?  I have not had the valve
>cover off, but I suspect that there might be an adjustable cam sprocket
>in there.  Any comments?  I'm going to pull the valve cover as soon as I
>get a chance to (hopefully) see what's going on.
no, it only changes the relationship between the valve events and piston TDC.
My friend had similar problems with his truck when he put sidedrafts on, but
he never figured it out
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 09 May 1997 22:48:23 -0400
From: Ed Ruf 
Subject: adjustable cam/ignition timing
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
On 08:12 PM 5/9/97 -0400, Spinnetti@aol.com wrote:
>In a message dated 5/9/97 5:35:20 PM, Ed Ruf  wrote:
>>So now I come to my question.  If the cam were advanced with an
>>adjustable sprocket, would this also advance the ignition timing since
>>the distributor runs off of the cam shaft?  I have not had the valve
>>cover off, but I suspect that there might be an adjustable cam sprocket
>>in there.  Any comments?  I'm going to pull the valve cover as soon as I
>>get a chance to (hopefully) see what's going on.
>
>no, it only changes the relationship between the valve events and piston TDC.
>My friend had similar problems with his truck when he put sidedrafts on, but
>he never figured it out
Wait a minute, it's late and now you've got me thinking... Oh oh, that's
dangerous.  The distributor is gear driven off the camshaft. If I remember
correctly, isn't this a spiral cut bevel gear? Actually the type of gear
shouldn't matter. If it's driven off the cam and the cam is indexed wrong,
then so is the ignition. Now, if the distributor was driven off the crank,
say like an old 8RC then only the valve timing would be off. Correct?
Ed Ruf   (egruf@visi.net) or for Scramjet related ??? (e.g.ruf@larc.nasa.gov)
1986 Toy 4x4 SR5 PU@122K, 3.5" Rcho susp.+RS-7ks,31x10.5 BFG-A/T,K&N
1987 Toyota SR5 4Runner @ 118K, KYB GasSprings, 30.5x9.50 Cooper Disc.
1982 Honda XL600R Thunderin' Thumper
1986 Yamaha FJ-1200SC @ 15K
2 yr old, 110#, pure bred white GSD, Kaiser Klaus III, AKC# DL569628/04
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 10 May 1997 01:55:42 -0700
From: "Michael Medart" 
Subject: Back-Up Bulbs
To: "Toyota 4x4 (TLCA)" 
>I bought mine at Wal-Mart, just remember not to leave the truck in
>reverse a LONG time or the extra wattage from the bulbs will melt
>the tail light lenses.
>
>- jack
I bought and installed 50w halogen b-u bulbs from NWOR about 5
years ago for $9.95/each.  They work terrific!  I have had no problem
with melting tail light lenses and I always leave them on at night
when camping/4-bying to illuminate the campsite while setting
things up.  Up to 2 hours at a time with no meltdowns.  Only one
has burnt out in these 5 years.
I you really want a trick set-up and have a Smittybuilt (or similar)
rear double-tube bumper, along with a spare fog light (or two), try
this:  With a hacksaw, cut out a length of upper tube that's about
1/2 to 3/4 inch wider than your soon-to-be-mounted fog light (cut
out the center section of either the right or left [or both] side of the
bumper), sand off the burrs, pop on your recently purchased
replacement Smittybuilt tube bumper end caps on the new holes
you just made, either fabricate or buy a new mount for the light,
mount and wire it to the bumper and either a seperate switch or
in-line with your stock back-up lights.  Looks really cool when
you're done.  Also makes an impression on tail-gaters at night!
\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\
Michael Medart, Ventura, CA bigblue@anacapa.net
1988 Toyota 4x4 X-Tra Cab V-6, Rancho/Downey
lift, 4.88 gears, Detroit E-Z locker, ARB Air Locker
Rancho RS 9000's w/remote, Con-Fer shackles/
skid plates and roof rack, 33" BFG Muds. RTI: 651
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 10 May 1997 00:01:28 -0400
From: Ross Douglas 
Subject: Bio reply
To: toy4x4@tlca.org
Ross Douglas
St. Simons Ga.
USA
rdouglas@technonet.com
1997 4x4 SR5 V6
No
26
Merchandise Mgr. for JCPenney
Married
Cycling, FlyFishing
I found out about the sight at one of the offroad sites.
Ross Douglas
St. Simons Island, Ga.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 09 May 1997 15:22:14 -0700
From: Scott Wilson 
Subject: CB/Ash Tray
To: Toy4x4 
I heard from a couple of people who wanted to know which models of CBs
will fit in the ash try spot.  Last night we used a $40 Radio Shack, fit
perfect.  Today I measured my Cobra 19 Ultra, and sure enough, it'll
fit.  Mounting in the ash tray may be a problem though because of the
layout of my dash.  I don't think that spot is deep enough for my Cobra
in my truck.  BTW, we did have to cut to make Louie's CB fit too, but
there was nothing behind the plastic (the plastic was decoration).  In
my truck I can't to that because it is the air vent that is restricting
depth.  It all depends on the year/model of your truck.
Scott
- --
Scott A. Wilson            __o          __o          __o         __o
Santa Clara, CA          _'\<,_       _'\<,_       _'\<,_      _'\<,_
swilson@pacbell.net     (_)' (_)     (_)' (_)     (_)' (_)    (_)' (_)
http://users.uniserve.com/~rcomber/scottw/scottw.htm
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 9 May 1997 17:36:10 -7 GMT
From: "Leo G. Divinagracia III" 
Subject: dropping diff = more severe driveline angle???
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
okay, since dropping the front diff - on an IFS lift - doesn't do anything
to the transfer case, doesn't that mean the angle between the two gets
more severe?  i mean take pro-lift's 4" lift, the drop brackets i see are
a big difference.  does the driveline have enough 'play' to take this much?
i was planning on doing the torsion bar lift where the diff stays where it
is.
(ditto for the rear axle...)
- -----------------------
Leo G. Divinagracia III
ldivinag@csuhayward.edu
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 09 May 1997 23:15:41 -0400
From: Ed Ruf 
Subject: dropping diff = more severe driveline angle???
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
On 05:36 PM 5/9/97 GMT, Leo G. Divinagracia III wrote:
>okay, since dropping the front diff - on an IFS lift - doesn't do anything
>to the transfer case, doesn't that mean the angle between the two gets
>more severe?  i mean take pro-lift's 4" lift, the drop brackets i see are
>a big difference.  does the driveline have enough 'play' to take this much?
It's been a while since I put the Rancho kit in my PU, so his my be wrong.
But I thought it was a compromise between the angles on the U-joints in the
driveshaft(s) and the angle on the C-V joints in the front axles. With the
C-V joints being the more fragile of the mix.
Ed Ruf   (egruf@visi.net) or for Scramjet related ??? (e.g.ruf@larc.nasa.gov)
1986 Toy 4x4 SR5 PU@122K, 3.5" Rcho susp.+RS-7ks,31x10.5 BFG-A/T,K&N
1987 Toyota SR5 4Runner @ 118K, KYB GasSprings, 30.5x9.50 Cooper Disc.
1982 Honda XL600R Thunderin' Thumper
1986 Yamaha FJ-1200SC @ 15K
2 yr old, 110#, pure bred white GSD, Kaiser Klaus III, AKC# DL569628/04
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 9 May 1997 23:52:31 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jonathan Albrecht 
Subject: dropping diff = more severe driveline angle???
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
> okay, since dropping the front diff - on an IFS lift - doesn't do
> anything to the transfer case, doesn't that mean the angle between the
> two gets more severe?  i mean take pro-lift's 4" lift, the drop
> brackets i see are a big difference.  does the driveline have enough
> 'play' to take this much?
There is actually a slip joint in the front driveshaft.  It didn't give
us any problems on my friends '86 w/ the 4" Superlift kit.
> i was planning on doing the torsion bar lift where the diff stays
> where it is.
FWIW, and IMHO, I think the front driveshaft is better suited for
running at higher (than stock) angles than the cv joints..
> (ditto for the rear axle...)
Good luck on the rear!  ..You plan to use gear reduction hubs or
something?   ;)
__
Jonathan Albrecht
albr9619@uidaho.edu
http://www.uidaho.edu/~albr9619/
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 09 May 1997 18:03:57 -0500
From: The Brauns 
Subject: Hand Winch
To: ToyotaStuff 
>>Anyone know where one can get a "HandWinch"??
You might try the More Power puller from the Avenir Company
(800-626-0095) - they advertise a hand winch rated at 4000 lbs pulling
power with 40' of 5/16 steel cable.  The last magazine I have shows a
price of $129.  They advertise almost every month in the back of most
popular 4x4 mags with a title that says "Stuck In A Rut?".
I have no idea what the quality is like but they say it comes with a 2
year warranty.  I'm planning on trying one of these when I get a few
extra bucks (yeah right!).
Hope this helps!
Stan
- --
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
 -   _____                                                    __ .
 -
 -  |  |__\___    There's nothing like 4-wheelin in the   ___/__||\____
 -
 -  |--|___--_|             Great Outdoors!
|_--___|__--__| -
 -   \\// \\//                                             \\//   \\ //
 -
 -   (_)   (_)             brauns@flash.net                (_)     (_)
 -
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 9 May 1997 18:01:24 -0700
From: "Allen Jensen" 
Subject: Hand Winch
To: 
Northern has a 3700 lb hand winch with 185' of cable for $121.99, or a 3200
lb unit with 175' of cable for $69.99. They're at 800-533-5545 or
http://www.northern-online.com.
JC Whitney also has a 3200 lb unit for $74.95 at 312-431-6102, without the
cable.
Hope this helps.
Allen Jensen
Southern California
aj@oc-net.com
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 09 May 1997 18:54:42 -0400
From: "R. W. 'Butch' Stiles" 
Subject: heavy duty floor mats, rust
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Michael Getlik wrote:
>
> Anyone familiar with the mailorder company Cabella's???    (Fishing , Hunting,
> Camping, Boating)
>
> In the latest issue, they have heavy duty 4Runner floor mats (fronts only) for
> a meer $70 plush shipping.  Has anyone used this product?  Any good?
>
> Also, I noticed my '90 4Runners started rusting around the rear 1/4 panels.
> Both sides.  Anyone else see this ?
>
> Mike
> '90 4Runner
Mike,
 Save yourself 20 bucks and get some Husky Liners, they are custom
molded to fit the truck and keep all the nasty stuff off of the carpet.
Also, I think they now offer ones for the rear as well for the
'Runner crowd. Best money I ever spent on my truck. I have a friend who
drools over them every time he gets in my truck, he's just too cheap to
buy some for himself. Too cheap, or too many kids, I'm not sure.
Later...
- --
Butch Stiles
rokitman@erols.com
Just as it says, "Rocket Man"
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 9 May 1997 22:07:20 -0400 (EDT)
From: DRM033@aol.com
Subject: Help! -- spring bushings
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
In a message dated 97-05-09 12:39:41 EDT, you write:
> I need help with a problem...
>  I'm replacing my rubber spring bushings with poly on my stock springs,
>  and I'm having trouble with the front eye on the rear springs.  I bought
>  the bushings from Downey (part #DOW9-2071), and double checked to make
>  sure they sent the right ones, which they did.  In the front eye of the
>  rear spring is a metal sleeve that surrounded the stock bushings ((not
>  the small metal insert that the bolt goes through)).  The Downey
>  bushings are too large in diameter to fit into that sleeve, but it looks
>  like they will fit perfectly into the eye if that sleeve is removed.
>  Problem is, that sucker won't budge.  Can someone tell me if that sleeve
>  IS supposed to come out?  And if so, how the heck do you remove it?
>  There is no way the Downey bushing will fit into it.  Now I'm stuck
>  cause I destroyed the rubber bushings when I took them out...anyone ever
>  driven about 10 miles with just the bolt through the spring?? :)
>
>  Thanks a lot,
>
>  Dylan Keon, KA8PFC
>  1986 22RE 4WD SR5 longbed, 172K
>
I use an air chissel.  First take a hack saw and make a groove.  Use that
groove to position the chissel blade.  hit the trigger and it will cut the
cleanest line you have ever seen, or it will push the sleeve clean out.  This
is the best way I have found, and I have tried all of that beating and
hammering.
David
DRM033@aol.com
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 09 May 1997 23:20:46 +0000
From: Dylan Keon & Karen Levy 
Subject: Help! -- spring bushings
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Scott Wilson wrote:
> Don't panic, I've got the answer.  I've done poly on two Toys now (mine
> and my friends) so I've got a really good method.  Get yourself and
> TOUGH flat head screw driver, and a HEAVY hammer.  That's all you should
> need.  Hammer the screw driver in where the eye raps around the bushing
> and meets itself.  Hammer it in deep!  Don't wiggle your screwdriver up
> and down (as my friend did to my Craftsman) or it will break (just as my
> Craftsman)(Sears replaced it w/o even asking how I did it).  Once you've
> forced the eye open enough the bushing (yes, with the metal band around
> it) should pop right out, or can be tapped out with the hammer.
Will the spring eye return to its original shape after you do this?
I'm beginning to wonder if I really do have stock springs...I talked with
Downey and they contend that I can't have stock springs or else their
bushings would fit.  They think I have Skyjacker springs (apparently
Skyjacker makes a smaller front eye than stock on the rear spring).  But the
stock springs I've inspected on other trucks look just like mine so it's a
little confusing.
The other problem is that my bolt is a bit too large to fit through Downey's
metal insert, and the previous insert (stock??) is too large to fit through
Downey's bushings.  I'm thinking of filing out the I.D. of the bushings a bit
so that I can fit the original insert through them, as long as 1) I can
remove the metal sleeve from the eye and 2) the bushing fits correctly in the
eye with the sleeve removed.
Can anyone help me identify my springs from any of these clues?  Thanks!
> Don't try to remove the metal band from the rubber or vice verse.  The
> rubber was molded to it, so you'll never get it out that way.  The above
> method usually get 'em out in about 5-10minutes.  I learned it the hard
> way, after many hours of failed attempts.  The only other option I know
> of, is to torch the rubber out, and thats just silly.  ;)
Too late!  I already torched out the one side, assuming the bushings would
fit into the metal sleeve.  At least I had enough sense this morning to only
do one side...what a PITA! :)
> Let me know how it goes, and if you have more questions, feel free to
> voice them.
OK, thanks much for the advice.
Dylan Keon, KA8PFC
1986 22RE 4WD SR5 longbed, 172K
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 09 May 1997 23:39:25 -0700
From: Scott Wilson 
Subject: Help! -- spring bushings
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Dylan Keon & Karen Levy wrote:
> Will the spring eye return to its original shape after you do this?
Yes
> I'm beginning to wonder if I really do have stock springs...
You mean even after the thin metal sleeve is out, the poly won't fit?
> The other problem is that my bolt is a bit too large to fit through Downey's
> metal insert, and the previous insert (stock??) is too large to fit through
> Downey's bushings.  I'm thinking of filing out the I.D. of the bushings a bit
> so that I can fit the original insert through them, as long as 1) I can
> remove the metal sleeve from the eye and 2) the bushing fits correctly in the
> eye with the sleeve removed.
Don't know what to tell you there.  My guess is you have stock springs
just because your front bushing is like every other Toy I've looked at.
It's always possible the Downey stuff is wrong...
> Too late!  I already torched out the one side, assuming the bushings would
> fit into the metal sleeve.  At least I had enough sense this morning to only
> do one side...what a PITA! :)
Bet that was smelly!!
Let us know what happens...
Scott
- --
Scott A. Wilson            __o          __o          __o         __o
Santa Clara, CA          _'\<,_       _'\<,_       _'\<,_      _'\<,_
swilson@pacbell.net     (_)' (_)     (_)' (_)     (_)' (_)    (_)' (_)
http://users.uniserve.com/~rcomber/scottw/scottw.htm
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 9 May 1997 23:01:21 -0400 (EDT)
From: DRM033@aol.com
Subject: IFS bump stop spacing
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
In a message dated 97-05-09 18:13:49 EDT, you write:
> It's pretty normal, but you can gain 2-3 more inches more travel if you
>  go to a low profile poly urethane bumpstop.  You'll need 3 pair
>  ($2-4/pair)   Eric Jonson and I (as well as others) have been using them
>  on out IFS trucks for a long while now, with no problems.
>
>  Scott
>  --
>  *****************************************************
>  Scott Wilson TLCA #5261
Ok, I must be real stupid.  I just ordered a set of those from NWOR for 9
bucks.  And the Nissan breathers were 8 bucks each.  What is the deal?  Am I
just getting taken?  Is it just cheaper everywhere else?
David
DRM033@aol.com
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 9 May 1997 23:38:34 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jonathan Albrecht 
Subject: IFS bump stop spacing
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
> It's pretty normal, but you can gain 2-3 more inches more travel if you
> go to a low profile poly urethane bumpstop.  You'll need 3 pair
> ($2-4/pair)   Eric Jonson and I (as well as others) have been using them
> on out IFS trucks for a long while now, with no problems.
How come you need three pair?  Are two sets for compression and one for
extenion?
Downey says you only  need one pair--I compromised and ordered two.
__
Jonathan Albrecht
albr9619@uidaho.edu
http://www.uidaho.edu/~albr9619/
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 9 May 1997 23:58:04 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jonathan Albrecht 
Subject: IFS bump stop spacing
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
> Ok, I must be real stupid.  I just ordered a set of those from NWOR for 9
> bucks.  And the Nissan breathers were 8 bucks each.  What is the deal?  Am I
> just getting taken?  Is it just cheaper everywhere else?
My bumpstops were 9.67 a pair (just got them!).
__
Jonathan Albrecht
albr9619@uidaho.edu
http://www.uidaho.edu/~albr9619/
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 09 May 1997 23:42:14 -0700
From: Scott Wilson 
Subject: IFS bump stop spacing
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
DRM033@aol.com wrote:
> Ok, I must be real stupid.  I just ordered a set of those from NWOR for 9
> bucks.  And the Nissan breathers were 8 bucks each.  What is the deal?  Am I
> just getting taken?  Is it just cheaper everywhere else?
Maybe.  Nissan definately ripped you off, they charged me something like
$4-4.5  Eric was saying the same thing about the low profile bump
stops.  He was paying something like $10/pair through some other
distributer, I was buying them from 4WPD for $3/pair.  We were both
buying the same Energy Suspension bushings.
Scott
- --
Scott A. Wilson            __o          __o          __o         __o
Santa Clara, CA          _'\<,_       _'\<,_       _'\<,_      _'\<,_
swilson@pacbell.net     (_)' (_)     (_)' (_)     (_)' (_)    (_)' (_)
http://users.uniserve.com/~rcomber/scottw/scottw.htm
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 09 May 1997 23:44:10 -0700
From: Scott Wilson 
Subject: IFS bump stop spacing
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
> How come you need three pair?  Are two sets for compression and one for
> extenion?
>
I think that was it.
> Downey says you only  need one pair--I compromised and ordered two.
What can I say? Downey is WRONG. (Not the first time from the stories I
hear)  I've done this on my own truck...3 pair.
Scott
- --
Scott A. Wilson            __o          __o          __o         __o
Santa Clara, CA          _'\<,_       _'\<,_       _'\<,_      _'\<,_
swilson@pacbell.net     (_)' (_)     (_)' (_)     (_)' (_)    (_)' (_)
http://users.uniserve.com/~rcomber/scottw/scottw.htm
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 9 May 1997 16:00:07 -0700
From: Randy Ring 
Subject: More Poop on HP
To: "'Toy4x4@tlca.org'" 
For you 22RE guys & gals:
I had an 86, 22RE, auto, LB for 177,000 miles (at 177K miles it used 1/4 =
quart of oil for 3,000).  It was my daily driver and my serious off-road =
toy. I used (in the tank) Berryman Chemtool Carb/Injector cleaner (1 =
can) about every other oil change (3K miles), so about 6K miles.  =
Berryman is a petroleum distillate and by far the best injector cleaner =
I've used.  It's my understanding that  methanol-based injector/carb =
cleaners in the gas tank have an appetite for rubber.  It made a =
noticeable difference in performance when I ran a can of Berryman in the =
tank.  I also ran 20-50 GTX Castrol and later switched to 10-40, around =
90K miles.  The engine seemed to rev easier on the 10-40. I lived in CA =
so no real temp extremes. My 22RE also liked to breathe fresh air.  I =
changed the air filter (stock filter) every 7-10K miles (depending on =
how many dusty roads I had been on).
The only mod I made to the engine was headers, and I was very impressed =
with the added torque and top-end performance.  It was the best $300 I =
spent on the truck for added performance.  Before I bought the headers I =
talked to Doug Thorely's technical guru and he said that I would =
probably gain between 10 and 15 horsepower and I would notice the gain =
between 2000 and 3500 RPM.  He even offered to Dyno the truck before and =
after at no cost, but at the time, I didn't want to go thru the hassle. =
Looking back, it would have fun to see it with my own eyes. I just took =
his word and expertise. They were right on.
Hope this helps.
Randy "Gnarls" Ring
Randy_Ring@environ.com
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 9 May 1997 22:06:01 -0400 (EDT)
From: DRM033@aol.com
Subject: Splitfire Plugs
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
In a message dated 97-05-09 14:38:55 EDT, you write:
> I would just like to say one thing about the Split fire plug thread running
>  here.
>
>  As an electronics technician 18years experince.    Basic Electrical flow
>  dictates
>  that electicity will follow the easiest path between two points.   So with
a
>  plug with two ground points for the spark to jump to, The spark will
always
>  jump to the easier to reach
>  point.  But never both at the same time..........    So the plug would act
> as
>  an ordinary one electrode plug.
>
 The Idea is not to spark both, but to allow better exposure of the spark to
the chamber.
David
DRM033@aol.com
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 09 May 1997 23:11:19 -0400
From: Ed Ruf 
Subject: Splitfire Plugs
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
On 10:06 PM 5/9/97 -0400, DRM033@aol.com wrote:
>In a message dated 97-05-09 14:38:55 EDT, you write:
>>  As an electronics technician 18years experince.    Basic Electrical flow
>>  dictates
>>  that electicity will follow the easiest path between two points.   So
with a
>>  plug with two ground points for the spark to jump to, The spark will
always
>>  jump to the easier to reach
>>  point.  But never both at the same time..........    So the plug would act
>> as  an ordinary one electrode plug.
>>
> The Idea is not to spark both, but to allow better exposure of the spark to
>the chamber.
How is this supposed to happen with the split upper electrode? The spark
has to occur between the upper and lower electrodes. Just where is it
moving to that exposes the air/fuel mixture to a better ignition source. If
anything by creating the edges in the upper electrode you've maybe moved
the spark 1/16" inward to the center of the plug. I've done four years of
research in 20+kHz gas blown spark gaps (AKA in some applications as spark
plugs) and four plus years in pulsed gas discharge lasers. I have yet to
see any physics behind the arguments of splitfire proponents. I realize I'm
just a DSE, maybe someone can help me out here?
Also, just to point it out, for a given ignition system, you've actually
reduced the breakdown voltage of the spark, so you actually have less
ignition energy being deposited into the air/fuel charge. This is precisely
why the Jacobs system specs a larger plug gap, to increase the breakdown
voltage and hence increase the energy deposited.
Ed Ruf   (egruf@visi.net) or for Scramjet related ??? (e.g.ruf@larc.nasa.gov)
1986 Toy 4x4 SR5 PU@122K, 3.5" Rcho susp.+RS-7ks,31x10.5 BFG-A/T,K&N
1987 Toyota SR5 4Runner @ 118K, KYB GasSprings, 30.5x9.50 Cooper Disc.
1982 Honda XL600R Thunderin' Thumper
1986 Yamaha FJ-1200SC @ 15K
2 yr old, 110#, pure bred white GSD, Kaiser Klaus III, AKC# DL569628/04
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 10 May 1997 05:31:13 -0400 (EDT)
From: Jared97@aol.com
Subject: Toy4x4 Digest V1 #175
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
could you please take me off your mailing list for now.
Thanks,
jared97@aol.com
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 09 May 1997 22:07:49 -0500
From: Chris Caldwell 
Subject: Trans cooler
To: 4x4 digest 
Leo,
As Dan stated, I also don't think that anyone has offered a trans cooler
specifically for the Tacoma. Actually, I think that the bulk of the ones
offered are pretty much a universal fit in how they connect to the lines
going to the radiator. To clarify, of the ones that I have seen, you cut
the lines going into and out of the radiator and attach the new cooler
hoses with clamps. Performance Products sells two differant coolers of
differant dimensions. I guess it would depend on how much room you have
to mount one.
If you pursue this, please keep us updated.
Chris Caldwell
caldwell@vol.com
(95.5 Tacoma Xcab 4x4 V6, TJM Bullbar, K&N, soon a Lock-right)
------------------------------
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