Toy4x4 Digest          Fri,  2 May 97 12:30:02 (HST)  Volume 1 : Issue 162
 Today's Topics:
 '94 engine ping (2 msgs)
 1988 4Runner 22RE - no power! (5 msgs)
 Aftermarket Horns (3 msgs)
 Buzzer
 CB
 compression ratio ?
 fuel gauge and timing chain
 Gas tank - auxiliary??
 Head Gasket -- was Re:Galen! (2 msgs)
 IFS Torsion Bars...
 Late-Who's on the list
 Lock-Right vs. Detroit (2 msgs)
 manual
 moving to Cookeville TN
 NOS in a 22RE (2 msgs)
 NWOR heavy duty replacement
 Replacing fluids
 Shaky Mirror
 Soft Tacoma suspension
 Throttle body modification.
 Tires, Wheels and Gearing, 84 Toy (7 msgs)
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 ----------------------------------------------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 2 May 1997 11:46:41 -0400 (EDT)
 From: AThorn5556@aol.com
 Subject: '94 engine ping
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Hey rick,
 Thanks for the input, I thought that I was the only person with this
 problem.
 It's funny that my dealer has done the same thing, but the truck was under
 warranty at the time.  They have since refused to do any more work on the
 vehicle  and said that this was an inherent trait of the toy's, so just run
 93octane fuel.  Well, down here in NC.  93 is about $1.40 per gallon, besides
 I thought that the truck was suppose to run on 87?  Anyway, I was debating
 about taking it to an independent Toyota repair garage,  they do very
 thorough work but cost an arm and a leg.  I just want the darn thing
 diagnosed and fixed.
 As far as the spark plugs go, don't bother.  I've tried splitfire(crapola!),
 and NGK, I've tried an aftermarket computer and coil, I've tried all the
 different gas brands, all the fuel system cleaners.  Trust me, there is
 nothing out there that can fix the problem other than a trained mechanic that
 is willing to take a few hours and use some of their experience and
 intelligence and TRY to fix the problem.
 I know Jim Brink has been doing some research at Toyota so maybe he can
 come up with some sort of approach for us.
 Anyway, good luck and I'll keep the list posted with any news I hear.
 thanks.
 A.Thornton
 Athorn5556@aol.com
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 2 May 1997 10:53:08 -0700
 From: Eric Johnson  Subject: '94 engine ping
 To: "'Toy4x4@tlca.org'"  AThorn5556@aol.com wrote:> 	Thanks for the input, I thought that I was the only person with this> problem.> It's funny that my dealer has done the same thing, but the truck was
 under> warranty at the time.  They have since refused to do any more work on the> vehicle  and said that this was an inherent trait of the toy's, so just
 run> 93octane fuel.  Well, down here in NC.  93 is about $1.40 per gallon,
 besides> I thought that the truck was suppose to run on 87?
 All EFI toyota engines used in trucks and 4runners are specified to run 91
 octane, so I'd try that before getting too upset with your dealer. I don't
 think its broken. if you've got the 3RZ-FE engine, you're running a 9.5:1
 (9.6:1 if its a 5VZ-FE) compression ratio, so its no surprise at all to me
 if you're pinging on 87.
 - --
 - -- ej@blarg.net
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 2 May 1997 08:48:59 -0700
 From: "Joe 'Klacktoveedensteen' Brower"  Subject: 1988 4Runner 22RE - no power!
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org
 Yo', folks,
 A few months ago I bought an '88 4Runner, 4WD, 5-speed, with the 22RE
 engine, and while this baby runs like a charm & doesn't burn a drop of oil,
 it does have one problem that I'm hoping to get some advice on:  It's got
 extremely little power. In addition to the small engine, it has custom 15"
 aluminum wheels on it with slightly oversize tires:  BF Goodrich "Radial
 All-Terrain T/A" 31x10.50 R15 LT 105S, and I'm sure that it still is
 running with the original gearing.  Just to keep up with the traffic here
 in SoCal I find I'm pushing the gas to the metal half the time.  What do
 y'all suggest to give this gutless wonder a bit more horsepower, without
 spending megabucks?  I'm tempted to just swat the problem big time with a
 Chevy V6 or V8 transplant, but, not being a mechanic, I'm leery of having
 something so extreme that would require continual maintenence by a
 knowledgable tech (plus the $$$ it would cost).  A V8 would by mucho fun,
 though!
 Thanks,
 Joe Brower
 Senior Programmer/Analyst, QUALCOMM Incorporated
 jbrower@qualcomm.com
 voice#:    619.658.4716      http://www.cynic.com/JB.html
 cellular#: !NIL              Mac/NT4/Omnis/Oracle/CDE!
 =======================================================================
 ,.-----__
 ,:::://///,:::-.
 /:''/////// ``:::`;/|/
 /'   ||||||     :://'`\
 .' ,   ||||||     `/(  e \
 - -===~__-'\__X_`````\_____/~`-._ `.
 ~~        ~~       `~-'    ...It's a 'dilla!
 =======================================================================
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 2 May 1997 08:24:07 -0800
 From: "CONRAD"  Subject: 1988 4Runner 22RE - no power!
 To: > From: Joe 'Klacktoveedensteen' Brower > Subject: 1988 4Runner 22RE - no power!> Date: Friday, May 02, 1997 7:48 AM> A few months ago I bought an '88 4Runner, 4WD, 5-speed, with the 22RE> engine, .....It's got extremely little power.....> Joe Brower
 You've got one of the most reliable engines ever made.  No need to swap for
 something else, there are a lot of things you can do to get a bit more
 power out of it.  K&N air filter element,  upgraded ignition system ( I
 prefer Jacob's),  header, LC will have theirs 50 state legal sometime this
 summer,  and a low restriction cat back system.  These mods will give a
 noticeable increase.  If you want/ need more, get an LC catalog and spend
 some big bucks.
 jc
 Jack Conrad,  BIG TOY, TLCA # 3851
 conrad@mosquitonet.com, North Pole, AK
 84 FJ-60, coils over  leaf-over, 350,38s, ARB
 92 Extra-Cab, coils over leafs, 5.29s, ARB, 35s
 Land Cruiser, don't leave the pavement without one!!
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 2 May 1997 12:24:07 -0400 (EDT)
 From: DRM033@aol.com
 Subject: 1988 4Runner 22RE - no power!
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 In a message dated 97-05-02 11:49:49 EDT, you write:> A few months ago I bought an '88 4Runner, 4WD, 5-speed, with the 22RE>  engine, and while this baby runs like a charm & doesn't burn a drop of
 oil,>  it does have one problem that I'm hoping to get some advice on:  It's got>  extremely little power. In addition to the small engine, it has custom 15">  aluminum wheels on it with slightly oversize tires:  BF Goodrich "Radial>  All-Terrain T/A" 31x10.50 R15 LT 105S, and I'm sure that it still is>  running with the original gearing.  Just to keep up with the traffic here>  in SoCal I find I'm pushing the gas to the metal half the time.  What do>  y'all suggest to give this gutless wonder a bit more horsepower, without>  spending megabucks?  I'm tempted to just swat the problem big time with a>  Chevy V6 or V8 transplant, but, not being a mechanic, I'm leery of having>  something so extreme that would require continual maintenence by a>  knowledgable tech (plus the $$$ it would cost).  A V8 would by mucho fun,>  though!>>  Thanks,>>>  Joe Brower
 If it runs fine, then you can try by(in any order, some better than others):
 better plugs
 better plug wires
 aftermarker ignition coil
 hotter cam
 &N filter replacement
 Downey/K&N "better" air box replacement
 free flow catalytic converter
 header
 better exhaust
 computer chip
 higher octane gas
 Ring & pinion change
 Some of these are stupid and seem kinda small, but every little bit helps.
 David
 DRM033@aol.com
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 2 May 1997 10:56:51 -0700 (PDT)
 From: Jonathan Albrecht  Subject: 1988 4Runner 22RE - no power!
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org> If it runs fine, then you can try by(in any order, some better than others):
 snip> computer chip
 snip> Some of these are stupid and seem kinda small, but every little bit helps.> David
 Hey, has anyone tried a chip in a 22re?  Or any engine for that matter.
 I've got a friend with a bronco II (2.9 efi six) who really want's to
 put one in.  From what I can tell (and from what I've heard) all they do
 is advance or change the timing, and lean the motor a bit.  Is that
 true?  If that's all they do, it seems like that could lead to worse
 pinging and all that good stuff--which he's already got problems with.
 I told him to save his cash, but if the chip really does work.. does
 it?
 Oh, and on another totally unrelated note, this same friend told me that
 someone scewed up, and filled our 'gas station' at work with diesel
 instead of gas.  Anyway, nobody knew about this, and by the end of the
 week, all ten or so of our work trucks were dead in the water. I'm kinda
 curious what (trying to) run diesel would do to a late model
 efi/pollution controlled truck.  I'm thinking it'd be hard on the cat,
 and maybe the fuel injectors...maybe...but really, diesel's basically
 just oil, seems like it wouldn't do that much.  Anybody know?
 __
 Jonathan Albrecht
 albr9619@uidaho.edu
 http://www.uidaho.edu/~albr9619/
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 2 May 1997 11:00:04 -0700
 From: Eric Johnson  Subject: 1988 4Runner 22RE - no power!
 To: "'Toy4x4@tlca.org'" ,
 Joe 'Klacktoveedensteen' Brower wrote:> A few months ago I bought an '88 4Runner, 4WD, 5-speed, with the 22RE> engine, and while this baby runs like a charm & doesn't burn a drop of
 oil,> it does have one problem that I'm hoping to get some advice on:  It's got> extremely little power. In addition to the small engine, it has custom
 15"> aluminum wheels on it with slightly oversize tires:  BF Goodrich "Radial> All-Terrain T/A" 31x10.50 R15 LT 105S, and I'm sure that it still is> running with the original gearing.
 Check your C/TR/A/TM code on your firewall (might be on the door jamb on an
 88) and compare your gearing with the chart at
 http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota/4_axles.html
 if you've got 4.10 gears, your tires are way oversized, if you've got 4.56
 you should be ok, as far as gearing is concerned.>Just to keep up with the traffic here> in SoCal I find I'm pushing the gas to the metal half the time.
 Be glad you got the 5-speed... i've got an AT, which is convenient, but a
 bit slower still.>  What do> y'all suggest to give this gutless wonder a bit more horsepower, without> spending megabucks?
 Regear or go to stock tire size (if you have 4.10s), or learn to live with
 it. 4Runners are gutless to begin with because of the extra weight, and the
 4-cylinder has trouble getting out of its own way, even more so when tires
 aren't matched well to the gears.
 Headers help a bit, but I doubt anyone makes a 22RE header that is legal in
 california. LC Engineering is working on it, I hear.
 - --
 - -- ej@blarg.net
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 2 May 1997 08:44:27 -0400 (EDT)
 From: TXPakRat@aol.com
 Subject: Aftermarket Horns
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Actually, if anybody is interested.  The horns I ordered are the the ones
 from JCW.  They are "made" by RIVERA  (although they look just like the
 Hella's).  I got the triple horn set and they were on sale.
 JCW Sale Catalog #:  93JD
 page #:  10
 Part #:  3 Horn - 81PN0189T
 2 Horn - 12PN 8359Y
 Price:  3 Horn - $21.99
 2 Horn - $17.79
 Prices good thru 31 July, 1997.
 Like I wrote a couple of days ago, I am installing mine now.  I started
 this evening and I hope to finish tomorrow.  I am taking pics at each step.
 I will post a message about it when I finish and send pics/instructions to
 anyone interested.
 Bob
 Pack Rat
 TXPakRat@aol.com
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 2 May 1997 08:51:47 -0400 (EDT)
 From: TXPakRat@aol.com
 Subject: Aftermarket Horns
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org, swilson@pacbell.net
 Sorry about the misinformation.  The horns from JCW are "RIVIERA" not
 "Rivera."
 Bob
 Pack Rat
 TXPakRat@aol.com
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 2 May 1997 12:24:30 -0700 (PDT)
 From: Kevin Valentine  Subject: Aftermarket Horns
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 How do I get a JCWhitney catalog?
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 2 May 1997 11:46:20 -0700 (PDT)
 From: Kevin Valentine  Subject: Buzzer
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 You could wire one of those car alarm horns into that circuit.  You know
 the one that has all kinds of diffent alarm sounds.
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 2 May 1997 11:54:50 -0700
 From: Randy Ring  Subject: CB
 To: "'Toy4x4@tlca.org'"  Date: Thu, 1 May 1997 22:15:58 -0700
 From: "Michael Medart"  Subject: Another CB Mount Alternative
 To: >I have been trying to come up with a **good** location to install my CB>radio in my 1994 Xtra-Cab P/U.=20
 *******
 To add to the other good comments and suggestions:
 I also had a Cobra 19 for many years.  It fit perfectly in the space =
 below the stereo unit (gadget tray) in my '86.  An SWR meter should be =
 used to tune the antenna for maximum performance.  A reading of <1.0 is =
 desirable.  When connecting the hot lead from the battery, I use =
 stranded center wire CB coaxial cable and connect it directly from the =
 battery to the CB using just the center core. The braided shielding will =
 help reduce engine spark noise in the radio.  Running it along the left =
 right side of the engine compartment, across the fire wall and into a =
 hole with a little rubber plug.  This is the easiest and fastest way to =
 get the hot lead into the interior thru the fire wall.  Also an external =
 speaker box (Radio Shak $5)  mounted on the driver side above the top =
 seat belt loop is very nice for better listening.  I have a fiberglass =
 whip that is 20 YEARS OLD, it has performed perfectly and has seen lots =
 for nasty thrashing thru bushes and trees.  I mounted mine just behind =
 the rear window on top of the bed frame.  I hear the TIGER antenna is a =
 good one.
 Change of subject, and I hope this isn't to late to add:
 Responding the comments about the difference between the Detroit Locker, =
 Lockright, Detroit EZ Locker and ARBs.
 I know at least a dozen serious wheelers that are running ARBs.  The =
 problem is reliability.  They just don't seem to work all the time.  =
 Even with the latest upgrades, I've seen them fail to engage. This is =
 primarily a "air pressure" problem.  The benefit to "switching" them off =
 and on is really in the rear diff for street use.  In most serious 4 =
 wheeling situations, you want it locked up and I can't see where there =
 is ever a great need to "switch off" a locker.
 I ran a Detroit Locker in the rear diff of my '86 Long bed, automatic =
 for 7 years. I did lots of serious wheeling and it worked great.  I had =
 no problems driving on the street.  On wet roads, if you tried hard, you =
 could get the back end to break loose.  I ran a TRD (posi-trac) in the =
 front.  It produced 40% lock up, according to TRD.  It worked great, and =
 didn't have the heavy "power steer" that a locker in the front exhibits =
 when 4 wheeling. =20
 I now own a 1985, 5 speed, short bed, 22R, Custom springs, 4" lift with =
 a Lockright rear, Detroit EZ locker in front. I do mostly rock crawling =
 in AZ. On the street the Lockright does act up.  Pulling into a parking =
 stall, it often "bucks" as though it's locking and unlocking quickly. It =
 sounds like the whole rear end is about to come apart.  The Lockright =
 also ratchets very loudly compared to the Detroit Locker.  When braking =
 hard, the Lockright will sometimes chatter, making that bucking sound.  =
 The Detroit Locker in my 1986 never did that.  The Lockright does appear =
 to have slightly less drive line "slack".
 The cost difference (cheapest price I found is 4 Wheel Parts Wholesale =
 in CA) is significant between DL and LR/EZL, considering anyone with =
 average mechanical skills and follows directions can install a =
 Lockright.  Reliability wise, the Lockright just isn't as strong and =
 I've seen mixed reviews reliability.  Detroit Lockers are practically =
 bullet proof, and I've known them to be installed in several vehicles =
 over a 15 year period and still perform like they were new.  In my =
 experience for 4 Runners and P/Us and serious 4 wheeling, a Detroit =
 Locker is the best choice.  The Lockright/EZ Locker is a less expensive =
 alternative with possibly less longevity/reliability.  For serious 4 =
 wheeling, there is nothing like being locked up at both ends. =
 Everything's a trade off.
 This is my experience, hope it helps.
 Randy_Ring@environ.com
 1985 Toy P/U  STB
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 2 May 1997 13:37:45 -0500
 From: Jack Alford  Subject: compression ratio ?
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org
 I'm trying to increase the compression ratio on my 22R a bit, does
 anyone know how much I could shave off my 22R head without fear of
 the valves hitting ??
 Thanks.
 - jack
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 2 May 97 14:59:00 -0500
 From: Rosenberger Bud  Subject: fuel gauge and timing chain
 To: "toy4x4@tlca.org"  Hi all!
 I have 2 questions.  The first may be a repost-I got an error message
 before.
 My fuel gauge never reads full and has about 7gallons in it when it reads
 empty.  Is there a way to adjust it?  Put a resistor in the line with it?
 Bend the float arm in the tank?  My bed will be off this summer so i'd
 appreciate the advice...
 Also, can you change the timing chain without removing the head?  oil
 pan?  The manual I have says remove head first but I don't think it's
 necessary.  While I'm in there, should i replace anything else?
 Thanks, Bud
 Bud Rosenberger   85 SR5 Longbed,  22RE, 159K miles,
 Arcade, NY     still original timing chain!#$$$?? :(
 brosenberger@lumsys.com
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 2 May 1997 10:27:14 -0600
 From: dicknu@usa.net
 Subject: Gas tank - auxiliary??
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Hi,
 I have a 1990 SR5 V6 PU with an automatic transmission.  I
 live in the rocky mountain area, wander western Utah
 quite a bit.  On the PU, I have a 1987 4-Wheel pop-up
 camper.  Even after reducing the tire size, (32 to 30),
 it's still relatively sluggish.
 But, what concerns me now is the range.  I am obtaining
 about 13.5 miles/gal overall.  With a 17.6 gallon tank, this
 gives me a range of about  237 miles.  This is about 100
 miles less than my Nissan (21 gal tank) and gives me
 pause when I consider wandering in Utah.
 I have looked for larger fuel tanks for the Toy, or for
 auxiliary tanks, but could find none.
 Has anyone a solution for this problem?
 Thanks for listening!
 dickn'
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 2 May 1997 10:25:41 -0400 (EDT)
 From: DRM033@aol.com
 Subject: Head Gasket -- was Re:Galen!
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 In a message dated 97-05-02 05:58:05 EDT, you write:>>  I'm disappointed with the airbox change.  The filter seemed to make enough>  of a difference by itself.>>  -- Galen Sinkey > Disappointed?  Were you expecting 0-60 times comparable to a sports car?
 From what you say, there is some difference.  On these Toys I have found
 that you can't get it all in one place, so you have to scrounge for power
 anywhere and everywhere you can find it.  Alone the drilled air box may not
 be great, but every little bit helps.
 David
 DRM033@aol.com
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 02 May 1997 10:12:31 -0500
 From: Galen Sinkey  Subject: Head Gasket -- was Re:Galen!
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org>  From what you say, there is some difference... every little bit
 helps.>>David>DRM033@aol.com
 Thats true; every bit does help.  Thanks!
 - -- Galen Sinkey  ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 2 May 1997 16:47:07 -0400 (EDT)
 From: Jeffles37@aol.com
 Subject: IFS Torsion Bars...
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 I hate to beat a dead horse, but I need help. After getting a set of 2"
 blocks and shackles for free from a friend, I've decided to give my truck a
 lift. I'm only 17, just bought the truck--so don't flame me if I just sound
 like a total retard:
 1. My plan was to install the 2" blocks on the rear, per normal install
 2. Then, (if I can find it /figure it out---and if you can coherently
 describe where and how to, please do) I plan to jack up the torsion bars
 about 1.5" --not 2" considering they probably couldn't handle it, and the
 rear is sagging about .5", so this would level it off.
 3. My problem is that I cannot afford to replace the shocks at the same time.
 It does have a good (great riding) set of Monroe GasMagnums (the road sensing
 ones) at the stock length. Can I do this lift using the Monroe (stock sized)
 shocks?
 Can the torsion bars (stock I assume) handle that type of cranking up? Or
 should I just go w/ a 1" lift (I can trade to get it)?
 How does one go about cranking the torsion bars up (please feel free to make
 references to Chilton's--I can't even locate the damn things under the truck.
 Any help is greatly appreciated!!
 also, it's a relatively stock 87 Toy X-Tra cab longbed EFI Turbo
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 02 May 1997 09:40:50 -0700
 From: Scott Wilson  Subject: Late-Who's on the list
 To: Toy4x4  I know its late this month...school and all...hopefully this weekend.
 Scott
 - --
 Scott A. Wilson            __o          __o          __o         __o
 Santa Clara, CA          _'\<,_       _'\<,_       _'\<,_      _'\<,_
 swilson@pacbell.net     (_)' (_)     (_)' (_)     (_)' (_)    (_)' (_)
 http://users.uniserve.com/~rcomber/scottw/scottw.htm
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 2 May 1997 11:33:11 -0400 (EDT)
 From: DRM033@aol.com
 Subject: Lock-Right vs. Detroit
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 In a message dated 97-05-01 17:45:24 EDT, you write:>>>> I've heard numerous stories of leaky air lines, etc too... even so, I> still>> long for an ARB myself...>>> This is not towards anyone in particular, but I swear some of this crap
 about air lockers comes from old timers who think:   Along comes a
 "newfangled contraption" called an air locker, and it takes an air compressor
 and air lines to make it work, so they say it must not be as good as the old
 tried and true lockers.  Give me a break!  Plenty of people have them and
 have had no problems.  We hear of one person who had some bolts come loose,
 and we start to think all of them will.  A locker is a locker.  If it locks
 when it is suposed to, it works.  If it is unlocked when it is supposed to,
 it works.  As to the air lines, I would probably say that if there is a leak,
 they were not done right in the first place.
 I personally think all lockers have their place.  I chose the ARB
 because of the ammount of street driving I do, not to mention how I drive.  I
 know those of you with other lockers say they "just take some getting used
 to" on the street.  I did not want to get used to anything, and would like
 for anyone to be able to get right in my truck and drive it like they would
 anything else, without requiring lessons.  I have a Jeep also, and plan to
 put a Detroit in it, 'cause it is mainly a trail rig. Like I said everything
 has it's place.  I get sick of people who have never had an ARB tell me that
 a friend of a friend knows this guy who says this is what they think its
 problems are.
 David
 DRM033@aol.com
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 2 May 1997 08:16:10 -0800
 From: "CONRAD"  Subject: Lock-Right vs. Detroit
 To: > From: DRM033@aol.com> Subject: Re: Lock-Right vs. Detroit> Date: Friday, May 02, 1997 7:33 AM> In a message dated 97-05-01 17:45:24 EDT, you write:>>>> I've heard numerous stories of leaky air lines, etc too... even so,
 I>> still long for an ARB myself...>>>>       This is not towards anyone in particular, but I swear some of this
 crap> about air lockers comes from old timers who think:   Along comes a> "newfangled contraption" called an air locker, and it takes an air
 compressor> and air lines to make it work, so they say it must not be as good as the
 old> tried and true lockers.  > David
 I have to agree with you David.  I have a ARB in both of my trucks, and
 have NEVER had a problem.  However, if the ARB is being used in loose,
 rocky terrain, the cheap plastic air lines could be a source of grief.  A
 simple precaution is to replace them with a good braided rubber line or put
 a good rubber sheath around them.  Low cost preventative measure, and
 you'll never have to worry about the dreaded "ARB air leak"!!
 jc
 Jack Conrad,  BIG TOY, TLCA # 3851
 conrad@mosquitonet.com, North Pole, AK
 84 FJ-60, coils over  leaf-over, 350,38s, ARB
 92 Extra-Cab, coils over leafs, 5.29s, ARB, 35s
 Land Cruiser, don't leave the pavement without one!!
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 2 May 1997 11:06:42 -0500
 From: bmonster@dkeep.com
 Subject: manual
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org
 The factory wanted like $65 for my manual.  I found the AllData personal
 edition to be pretty good.  It is not as good as the factory but it was
 only like $30.  It is on CDROM too!
 You can order it on there web site.  I think it was www.alldata.com
 bmonster
 /**********************************************************/^M/* Bmonster                                               */^M/* bmonster@dkeep.com                                     */^M/*                                                        */^M/* Sent from Dragon Keep                                  */^M/**********************************************************/^M=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
 Dragon Keep International * (352)375-3500 * dkeep.com * http://www.dkeep.com
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 2 May 1997 12:10:42 -0400 (EDT)
 From: DRM033@aol.com
 Subject: moving to Cookeville TN
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 I may be moving to Cookeville TN soon, and I thought I saw someone on the
 list who lives there - Michael Greenway, I think..  I would like to get in
 contact with you or anyone else around there and see about finding some
 people to ride with in the area.  Thanks
 David
 DRM033@aol.com
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 2 May 97 15:24:00 -0500
 From: Rosenberger Bud  Subject: NOS in a 22RE
 To: "toy4x4@tlca.org" ,
 Hi to all!
 I'd appreciate any and all thoughts on this.
 Why wouldn't I want to use Nitrous Oxide in my truck?  It seems like it
 would be great for those passing, towing, fun times where I need more
 power but don't have to suffer with a big engine or a highly modified
 22RE.  I do a fair amount of farm hauling so low end torque would be
 helpful.  I lost what little I had with the switch to larger tires. :(
 Is there anyone on either list that has NO2 on a 22re? Perhaps it is too
 much for the 22re?
 Would headers, free flow exhaust and a cam would be better for my money?
 Obviously, with 160K on my engine it would need a rebuild but what else
 should be done?  Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated!
 Thanks again!
 Bud Rosenberger 85 SR5 Longbed, 22RE, 32x12.5 BFG ATs, 159.7k
 Arcade NY
 brosenberger@lumsys.com
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 2 May 1997 14:02:05 -0700 (PDT)
 From: Jayson Entao  Subject: NOS in a 22RE
 To: Rosenberger Bud  On Fri, 2 May 1997, Rosenberger Bud wrote:
 [...]> 22RE.  I do a fair amount of farm hauling so low end torque would be> helpful.  I lost what little I had with the switch to larger tires. :(
 [...]
 Wouldn't lower gearing in the diff help this out?
 -Jayson
 Jayson Entao _/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/__/__/___/___/_____/______/_______/
 jayson@ucdavis.edu  _/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/__/__/___/___/_____/______/_______/
 http://www.engr.ucdavis.edu/~jmentao/__/__/___/___/_____/______/_______/
 ------------------------------
 Date: 2 May 1997 08:23:03 -0700
 From: "Jay Kopycinski"  Subject: NWOR heavy duty replacement
 To: "Toyota 4x4 List"  Subject:                              Time:  8:03 AM
 OFFICE MEMO         NWOR heavy duty replacement springs   Date:  5/2/97
 "T. Ryan"  wrote:
 snip>Since it's ususally me driving alone and on the highway i was>wondering if i might be able to remove a leaf or the overload
 leaf to make the truck ride better. Any ideas anyone?
 Yes, you could try removing the overload leaf and it should
 soften things up. Expect to lose 1/2 to 1" of lift when you
 remove it. Also, you may experience an increase in spring
 wrap......and......if the pack is sprung lightly enough, could have
 spring kinking problems. It sounds like your pack is plenty
 stiff enough though.
 Another possibility would be to remove the bottom spring
 leaf and leave the load leaf in place. You might have to
 experiment a bit.
 _______________________________________
 Jay Kopycinski    '85 Toylet  (ROKTOY)
 Gilbert, AZ
 ryna10@email.sps.mot.com
 http://www.netzone.com/~jayk
 Arizona Lo-Rangers 4WD Club            TLCA #3243
 _______________________________________
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 2 May 1997 11:33:55 -0700
 From: "Richard Aguinsky"  Subject: Replacing fluids
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 todd wrote:
 Personally I'm not a big fan of synths in the engine for various reasons
 not the least of which is cost but I often throw a token quart in with dino
 oil at oil change for kicks. Anyway I'm getting off topic. I suggest
 reading more about motor (not gear) oil in the Consumer Reports article
 from last year. I know it pissed off a lot of Amsoil folks (so what's new?)
 ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
 but it was well done and accurate IMHO.
 Saludos,
 Todd
 todd:
 i became a synthetic oil fan myself because when i switched over i
 DID notice a difference in the engine performance, it idled much
 smoother and i didn't notice big differences in engine performance
 at oil changes (when i used dinosaur oil, i noticed a big change
 in engine smoothness when i started the engine with fresh oil).
 i am curious on what it said in the report, because i DO know
 people with cars with over 300,000 miles on the engine thanks
 to using synthetics, but i rarely listen to anybody brag about
 150,000 miles engine running great with dinosaur oil...
 from my experience with oils, i had a turbo engine car before,
 and i religiously changed the oil and filter every 2000 miles,
 the engine was great but at 120,000 miles the turbo was gone.
 later i bought a diesel engine (old faithful cheapo mercedez)
 which i also changed the oil every 2000 miles and at 140,000
 miles the rings were gone....
 now i have a camry which i use synthetic oil and it runs
 great, i'm also using it in my 4 runner and no problems.
 though since i'm using synthetic in the camry, it is
 using up about 2 quarts every 4000 miles, which the
 mechanics said is normal, since synthetic is much slicker
 than dinosaur oil.
 also, it may be a little more expensive, but i don't change
 the oil as often, so it turns out to be the same.
 rich
 '87 4 runner
 187,000 miles young
 fully synthetic
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 2 May 1997 08:42:44 -0400 (EDT)
 From: TXPakRat@aol.com
 Subject: Shaky Mirror
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 I have had problems with my driver's side mirror shaking/vibrating ever
 since I picked it up new ('90 4Runner, picked up new in July '90) . . .
 before I put my first bug deflector on the front of the hood (I have a
 different one now and still get the vibration).
 Two different dealerships tried to fix the problem.  First with some kind
 of shim behind the mirror (inside the case).  Next with a completely new
 mirror.  Then with another new mirror.  All within about 6 months of
 purchase.  Well, my third mirror is still on my truck and it still vibrates
 enough to be anoying, but not enough to be a safety hazard.
 I am not sure if there is anything about the vibrations that can be
 fixed!  But, I am open for suggestions, too!
 Bob
 Pack Rat
 TXPakRat@aol.com
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 02 May 1997 10:08:51 -0400
 From: Philip  Subject: Soft Tacoma suspension
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 I have a 95.5 4x4 Tacoma with the 2.7 l engine and the 15x7 alloy rims.
 I find that the shocks and springs are too soft, and allow for excessive
 body roll...consequently it is like driving a boat on choppy water.
 I went to my Toyota dealer the other day to describe the problem, as
 well as to complain.  They told me that there was a technical service
 notice sent to dealers regarding the situation.  To make a long story
 short, they ordered me all new shocks, [a different compression rating]
 and new leaf springs.  They are replacing all of these parts under the
 notice as a warranty item.
 I believe the problem is specific to my model, as they changed the shock
 design 6 months after I purchased my truck in 95.  Go figure.
 Any questions let me know.
 Philip
 "mailto:psvander@mailbox.syr.edu"
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 2 May 1997 10:26:58 -0600
 From: ipoll@norway-c.it.earthlink.net
 Subject: Throttle body modification.
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 I just had the throttle body of my 94' 4-runner bored out by Downey and I
 have notice some top end (over 3k) improvment.  One problem is that my idle
 is to high.  When I instald the unit it was idling at about 2200, I
 adjusted the throttle body as much as possible and got it down to about
 1200.  Is there anyway to get it back to the normal idle speed?  Also does
 anyone know how much if any adjustment should be made to the mass air flow
 sensor?
 Ian Poll
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 2 May 1997 09:32:09 -0400
 From: lewis winston  Subject: Tires, Wheels and Gearing, 84 Toy
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 We need to get some info on tires, wheels and gearing for our recent
 purchase of our 84 Toyota.  It came with 35x14.50 M/T Baja's on Bart offset
 wheels and the rear gears were changed to 4.88's. The front gears are stock
 but we are considering changing to 4.88's as well.  We also have 3" body and
 3" susp
 to fit the tires.  We did not do the mods and we think they may be a little to
 extreme for long term use and reliability.
 We are considering the front gear change and a change in tire size to
 33x12.50's as we believe this will improve the ride and reliablity over the long
 term.  Most of our use will be for daily driving and for use in sand for
 surf fishing.
 This is our 4th Toyota 4x4 and the second 84 and we want to keep it
 around. Any info that we can get would be greatly appreciated.
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 02 May 1997 11:02:15
 From: Ed Ruf  Subject: Tires, Wheels and Gearing, 84 Toy
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 AT 09:32 5/2/97 -0400, lewis winston wrote:>        We need to get some info on tires, wheels and gearing for our
 recent>purchase of our 84 Toyota.  It came with 35x14.50 M/T Baja's on Bart
 offset>wheels and the rear gears were changed to 4.88's. The front gears are
 stock>but we are considering changing to 4.88's as well.
 Front and rear gears are different? What ever you don't use 4wd.
 Ed
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 2 May 1997 07:42:01 -0800
 From: "CONRAD"  Subject: Tires, Wheels and Gearing, 84 Toy
 To:  From: lewis winston > Subject: Tires, Wheels and Gearing, 84 Toy> Date: Friday, May 02, 1997 5:32 AM>         We need to get some info on tires, wheels and gearing for our
 recent> purchase of our 84 Toyota.  It came with 35x14.50 M/T Baja's on Bart
 offset> wheels and the rear gears were changed to 4.88's. The front gears are
 stock> but we are considering changing to 4.88's as well.
 Consider no longer.  You must change gears, or all you have is a two wheel
 drive truck.  The only situation that will allow you to SAFELY use 4-wheel
 drive right now is driving on ice.  With different gears at each end, if
 you engage 4-wheel drive on a surface that gives both axles good traction,
 they will turn at different speeds.  This will quickly reveal the weak
 links in your drive train.  With luck, it will be u-joints.  It could,
 however,  take out ring and pinions or transfer case.  Get those gears
 changed as soon as you can.
 jc
 Jack Conrad,  BIG TOY, TLCA # 3851
 conrad@mosquitonet.com, North Pole, AK
 84 FJ-60, coils over  leaf-over, 350,38s, ARB
 92 Extra-Cab, coils over leafs, 5.29s, ARB, 35s
 Land Cruiser, don't leave the pavement without one!!
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 2 May 1997 10:43:06 -0700
 From: Eric Johnson  Subject: Tires, Wheels and Gearing, 84 Toy
 To: "'Toy4x4@tlca.org'"  CONRAD wrote:>>         We need to get some info on tires, wheels and gearing for our> recent>> purchase of our 84 Toyota.  It came with 35x14.50 M/T Baja's on Bart> offset>> wheels and the rear gears were changed to 4.88's. The front gears are> stock>> but we are considering changing to 4.88's as well.>> Consider no longer.  You must change gears, or all you have is a two wheel> drive truck.
 Well, lets be open minded here... he could run shorter tires on the front :)
 - --
 - -- ej@blarg.net
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 2 May 1997 13:14:03 -0400 (EDT)
 From: "Dr. Karl Bellve"  Subject: Tires, Wheels and Gearing, 84 Toy
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 On Fri, 2 May 1997, Eric Johnson wrote:>>>> Consider no longer.  You must change gears, or all you have is a two wheel>> drive truck.>> Well, lets be open minded here... he could run shorter tires on the front :)> I thought about this too, but then he would have to have them wear at the
 same rate assuming that he started with the correct diameter tires to make
 up for the different gears. 4x4 Tractors are like this, but they work on
 soil and there is plenty of slip there.
 It is always funny to see people with 4x4s with different manufacturer
 tires on front and back and some even with different sizes (not much but
 noticable). I assume they hate their transfer cases. It is always a good
 idea to replace all 4 tires at the same time. IMHO
 Dr. Karl Bellve
 Biomedical Imaging Group
 University of Massachusetts
 WWW  : http://molmed.ummed.edu/~kdb/
 Email: kdb@molmed.ummed.edu
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 2 May 1997 11:39:27 -0700
 From: Eric Johnson  Subject: Tires, Wheels and Gearing, 84 Toy
 To: "'Toy4x4@tlca.org'"  Dr. Karl Bellve wrote:> On Fri, 2 May 1997, Eric Johnson wrote:>>> Consider no longer.  You must change gears, or all you have is a two
 wheel>>> drive truck.>>>> Well, lets be open minded here... he could run shorter tires on the
 front :)>> I thought about this too, but then he would have to have them wear at the> same rate assuming that he started with the correct diameter tires to
 make> up for the different gears. 4x4 Tractors are like this, but they work on> soil and there is plenty of slip there.
 I didn't really intend anyone to take me seriously, but what the heck... :)
 A toyota truck or 4runner 4WD system needs a little slip anyways; so slight
 differences in diameter wouldn't be the end of the world if you only used
 4WD in situations where there is some slip (which you should be doing
 anyways!).
 One of the 4x4 mags had some truck (quagmire?) that was set up this way
 too. It was a pretty clever setup. For practical purposes, though, I don't
 see any reason to do it on a toy, and agree they person with the 84 should
 change their gears to match.> It is always funny to see people with 4x4s with different manufacturer> tires on front and back and some even with different sizes (not much but> noticable).
 I saw an old cherokee 4x4 driving down the road the other day, and I don't
 think any two of his tires were the same size! I tried to reach him on CB
 to razz him about it, but he either didn't have it on or was ignoring me :)>I assume they hate their transfer cases. It is always a good> idea to replace all 4 tires at the same time. IMHO
 agreed.
 - --
 - -- ej@blarg.net
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 2 May 97 15:46:00 -0500
 From: Rosenberger Bud  Subject: Tires, Wheels and Gearing, 84 Toy
 To: "mail@UUCP {Toy4x4@tlca.org}" ,
 Perhaps he was doing "scientific wear/destructive testing"  similar to
 those "scientific dirt tests" I've seen bumper stickers warn about!!!!
 ----------> It is always funny to see people with 4x4s with different manufacturer> tires on front and back and some even with different sizes (not much
 but> noticable).
 I saw an old cherokee 4x4 driving down the road the other day, and I
 don't
 think any two of his tires were the same size! I tried to reach him on CB
 to razz him about it, but he either didn't have it on or was ignoring me
 :)>I assume they hate their transfer cases. It is always a good> idea to replace all 4 tires at the same time. IMHO
 agreed.
 --
 -- ej@blarg.net
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 2 May 1997 13:59:32 -0600
 From: Terry Mcgowan  Subject: unsubscribe
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org
 Could you please take me off the subscription list.
 ------------------------------
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