Toy4x4 Digest          Thu, 12 Mar 98 12:30:02 (HST)  Volume 1 : Issue 759
 Today's Topics:
 22R Sounds
 4 Runner Suspension INFO (2 msgs)
 95 Hilux 22RE Ring & Pinion (2 msgs)
 Bio (2 msgs)
 Cold Air Rushing In
 Crossover Steering (4 msgs)
 Dynomax muffler??????? (3 msgs)
 Error Code 3
 heater fan (3 msgs)
 Junkyard Engines (2 msgs)
 lockers (3 msgs)
 looking for information
 Mean machines.  Few Details.
 My Passanger Door Handle Won't Work
 My passenger door handle won't work
 need fender flare info
 Noisy valves (2 msgs)
 on-board air -A/C compressor (3 msgs)
 on board air (2 msgs)
 Performance Products and TJM Bumpers
 Personal Biography
 reproducing old Four Wheeler articles
 Shifter arm on 89 Runner
 Speedometer correction
 SR5 tach to work with a ford 5.0L  cpu
 Strange sound
 Supercharger for 97 4runner (2 msgs)
 Tacoma Lockers (2 msgs)
 Toy4x4 Digest V1 #758 (2 msgs)
 TRD lockers (2 msgs)
 Wheel Spacers
 Winches....Lockers.etc......
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 ----------------------------------------------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 12 Mar 1998 13:45:40 -0500 (EST)
 From: Eli Madden  Subject: 22R Sounds
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org
 - ---------- Forwarded message ----------
 Date: Thu, 12 Mar 1998 12:06:11 -0500 (EST)
 From: Eli Madden  Scott Muir wrote-
 *****************
 I caught wind of this a while back.  Someone with some experience might
 wanna confirm this, but if you torque down the valve cover nuts too far,
 it's
 possible to make the cover contact the valve train.  That could add a
 whole
 new drummer to the rhythm section.
 ******************
 Is this true? I'm trying to track down a high-pitched near the back of my
 engine that seems to be in time to the valves, and I've adjusted the
 valves 4 times now! I have kinda cranked the valve cover down......
 Eli
 '83 SR5 4x4 w/ '87 22R
 eli@computeralt.com
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 12 Mar 1998 08:25:21 -0700 (PDT)
 From: Jon Brandt  Subject: 4 Runner Suspension INFO
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 On Wed, 11 Mar 1998, Jeff Tamulis wrote:> Get a 3" body lift for your 4Runner, and crank your torsion bars up 1> inch or so and a nice 2" shackle in the back.  It will make your 4Runner> no longer have that "saggy butt" syndrome, and it won't effect your> ride, and you can install 33's without rubbing at all.  (I had a 2" body> lift and cranked up bars with no rubbing).  Its a heck of a lot cheaper.> I would have to dissagre w/ the 3" body lift...
 1. You get NO increase in ground clearance.
 2. You will have to cut holes in your fire wall, and it will be noisy,
 because the firewall may never seal again.
 3. Your steering shaft u-joints will be stressed.
 4. Capable suspension and lockers with smaller tires 31", 32's will do much
 better than huge balloons with sucky suspension.
 5. A 2" susp. lift, 1" body, and some minor trimming can work w/ 33's.
 Increase your travel before skyjacking the darn thing.
 A 1" body lift is recommendable, 2" max.
 Jon - jbrandt@csus.edu
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 13 Mar 1998 12:19:42 -0800
 From: "Brandon Miller"  Subject: 4 Runner Suspension INFO
 To: >>>On Wed, 11 Mar 1998, Jeff Tamulis wrote:>>> Get a 3" body lift for your 4Runner, and crank your torsion bars up 1>> inch or so and a nice 2" shackle in the back.  It will make your 4Runner>> no longer have that "saggy butt" syndrome, and it won't effect your>> ride, and you can install 33's without rubbing at all.  (I had a 2" body>> lift and cranked up bars with no rubbing).  Its a heck of a lot cheaper.>>>     I would have to dissagre w/ the 3" body lift...>1. You get NO increase in ground clearance.
 huh? Yes you do, the point is to fit the larger tires which will give you
 the ground clearance, who says 3", 2" works well...>2. You will have to cut holes in your fire wall, and it will be noisy,
 I don't have any holes in my firewall, why cut holes?>   because the firewall may never seal again.>3. Your steering shaft u-joints will be stressed.
 Something will be stressed no matter what.  If the lift is done from a
 suspension lift, the angles on the drag link, etc will be increased.  There
 is less affect from the body lift than a suspension lift..>4. Capable suspension and lockers with smaller tires 31", 32's will do much>   better than huge balloons with sucky suspension.
 Stock springs etc.  will articulate much better than the majority of the
 stiff lift kits. Those balloons will get your axles over the obstacles,
 there is no substitute for large tires ( I would never give up my  35's!).>5. A 2" susp. lift, 1" body, and some minor trimming can work w/ 33's.
 Hmm, depends on your style, my 33's rubbed with a 4" suspension lift and a
 2" body lift.  My 35's still rub with the 4" suspension lift, 2" body lift,
 and lift shackles front and rear.>>Increase your travel before skyjacking the darn thing.>A 1" body lift is recommendable, 2" max.> If your tires rub now, the body lift will increase travel.  I think the best
 is a combo of the two, and a two inch body lift is usually a better idea.
 The body lift gets the body up a bit and allows better mounting of the rear
 bumper and nerf bars that will protect the vehicle from the obstacles. Think
 about it, what usually hits?  For most it is the rear bumber, the body lift
 will allow you to raise that up.  Next to hit is the axles, the taller tires
 will help there.  To each his own but my method is a combo of the two.....
 /\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\
 Brandon Miller
 Sacramento CA
 email - miller@csus.edu
 home page - http://gaia.ecs.csus.edu/~millerb
 /\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 12 Mar 98 12:41:50 -0400
 From: Sampa  Subject: 95 Hilux 22RE Ring & Pinion
 To: "Toyota 4x4 Digest"  I had a noise in my rear diff, so I took it out. I found the ring and
 pinion ratio to be 4.3:1. Does anyone know if it is the original ratio,
 or was it modified before?
 I have a stock 22RE Hilux (at least I was told it is stock).
 Thank you
 - -------------------------------------------
 Somewhere in the heavens...they are waiting
 Sampa...the MacEvangelizer
 - --------------------------------------------
 1995 Toyota Hilux 4WD 4-Door 2.4EFI 22RE
 31x10.50x15 Pos-A-Traction Radial Trac +
 Gabriel GasRyder LT - Warn M5000
 Raised Differential Breathers - Snorkel
 2 x 5gal. Extra Gas Tanks
 - --------------------------------------------
 www.geocities.com/baja/dunes/2802/index.html
 - --------------------------------------------
 - ---      jpgw@entelchile.net  CHILE      ---
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 12 Mar 1998 07:33:17 -1000 (HST)
 From: Eric Johnson  Subject: 95 Hilux 22RE Ring & Pinion
 To: Sampa  On Thu, 12 Mar 1998, Sampa wrote:> I had a noise in my rear diff, so I took it out. I found the ring and> pinion ratio to be 4.3:1. Does anyone know if it is the original ratio,> or was it modified before?>> I have a stock 22RE Hilux (at least I was told it is stock).
 Its probably stock - the aftermarket doesn't offer such a ratio. In the US
 it was a common ratio to use with 22REs pushing an automatic tranny and
 p225/75r15 tires.
 You can tell if its stock by checking your axle code and comparing to the
 chart at
 http:www/off-road.com/4x4web/toyota/4_axles.html
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 12 Mar 1998 09:13:43 -0500
 From: Cameron Bracewell  Subject: Bio
 To: Toy4x4  Toy4x4-Request wrote:>> Personal Bio Info>> POST TO THE LIST ONLY>> toy4x4@tlca.org> +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++>> Name: cameron bracewell>> City & State: middleburg, fl>> Country: usa>> E-mail address: bracewell@ilnk.com>> Toyota (s) year & model: 1987 4 Runner>> Are you a TLCA Member (Y/N/Number?):N>> Age:35>> Occupation: u.s. navy>> Marital Status: married>> Hobbies: anything outdoors anc computers>> How did you find out about the Toyota 4x4 Mailing List: internet>> General info about your vehicle, self, etc.: great truck, very dependable and havent' had to do much of anything to it.
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 12 Mar 1998 10:38:46 -0800
 From: "James W. Bates"  Subject: Bio
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org
 - --------------D979278D0828FCAA8084EBAB
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
 Personal Bio Info POST TO THE LIST ONLY>> toy4x4@tlca.org
 +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
 Name: James W. Bates
 City & State: Missoula, Mt.
 Country: USA
 E-mail address: gambler@mssl.uswest.net
 Toyota (s) year & model: 1993 4Runner
 Are you a TLCA Member (Y/N/Number?): N
 Age: 20
 Occupation: Student
 Marital Status: Single
 Hobbies: Wheeling, skiing, climbing, snowmobiling, fishing, biking,
 camping, having fun
 How did you find out about the Toyota 4x4 Mailing List: Was just looking
 around for 4Runner sites and discovered yours.
 General info about your vehicle, self, etc.: Right now I have the
 following: K&N Filtercharger, Splitfire plugs, Jacobs plug wires, Borla
 Cat Black exhaust, Cb, 400w sound system, Rancho RS9000, 32x11.50 Big O
 Big Foot AT.  I plan on: lifting it 4", 33x12.50s, Rancho RS9000, Ranch
 in cab kit, ARB lockers front & rear, ARB in cab kit, and TJM Bull Bar
 with a Warn 8,000lb. winch.
 - --------------D979278D0828FCAA8084EBAB
 [ HTML code removed - Admin ]
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 12 Mar 1998 09:06:56 -0600
 From: "B. Baldwin, BWSC Marketing"  Subject: Cold Air Rushing In
 To: "'Toy4x4@tlca.org'"  At around 45 mph and up, I get a cold air blast coming in from under the
 dash, towards the center, mostly on the passenger side. I'm going to Ohio
 this weekend and it's supposed to be cold outside. I'll stuff a towel up
 there unless someone has had something similar and knows a real fix. I have
 an 88 pickup.
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 13 Mar 1998 02:22:20 EST
 From: "james stevenson"  Subject: Crossover Steering
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org>For double pivot crossover steering instead of linking the steering>box to the steering arm directly you link it a pivot pint opposite>chassis rail. This mount is dropped on relation to the pitman arm.>From the pivot you link to the steering arm. By doing this you>remove a lot of bump steer due to the arc of the steering linkage.
 Jay Wrote>Is this assuming the draglink was flat or at an angle?
 The draglink is always at an angle. As you have to link the steering box
 (on Frame) to the steering arm (on axle). If you have a single link , ie
 direct from steering box to steering arm, you have an arc of movement as
 the axle articulates. When you go to double pivot this arc is reduced
 greatly removing a lot of bump steer.
 Runar Wrote>Those of you considering that Crossover swap.  The new>steering arm does bolt to the top of the passenger side knuckle,>doesn't it? And that makes the drag-link positioned above the> leaf pack, right?
 Double Pivot Setup. The steering box (IFS Type) is located on the
 drivers side of the frame. On the passenger side chassis rail you setup
 a pivot point. This pivot moves parallel with the axle. The pivot point
 is below the chassis rail and has 3 link points. The upper link is the
 frame pivot below that the link to the steering box and on the lower
 point the link to the steering arm. The attachment point for the
 draglink to the steering arm is on the drivers side with the pivot on
 the passenger side. If you then setup a panhard rod from the passenger
 side chassis rail to the axle and position the pivot in line with the
 panhard, you will have a near perfect setup. The panhard which locates
 the axle will move through the same arc as the steering link. As for
 positioning of the link it depends on the panhard. If you don't use a
 panhard rod you can attach above or below the leaf pack it all depends
 on the steering arm you are using. With the link above the pack bump
 steer is less than if it is below. The above the leaf pack method would
 have a straight linkage and below would have a bend in it. If a panhard
 is used you would attach to the Tie Rod inline with the attachment point
 of the panhard on the axle to get a parallel link to the panhard.
 Jay wrote on the suspension setup> Is this basically a double shackle at the rear end of the spring?
 Yes, and more. On the front diff I'm going for a Double shackle on the
 front and a single on the back, on the rear it the other way around. The
 position is controlled via a V link setup. Caster is constant throughout
 the entire travel.
 Jay Wrote>The one limitation is  that the spring and link arcs differ and there>is minor spring sling and slight bind in the leaves under extreme>travel, but it is still an excellent system.
 This is taken up by the shackles themselves as the shackle closest to
 the V link pivot moves less than the other. The arc minimised by the low
 attachment Point of the V link (Centre of Tcase crossmember). The angles
 are not really an issue as the axle is located by the V link without
 restriction by the leaf pack.
 Jay Wrote>Have any pics of the front torque rod design?
 I will forward some sketches and pics later directly to you.
 Runar Wrote>If you are planing on going this far, why not just go the whole>way and drop the leafs for some long-soft coils?
 Two reasons, simplicity and travel. The leaf setup is simpler as most of
 what I need is in place now. I don't even  need to change the shocks,
 just adjust the inboard links. Coils would mean higher shock rates which
 will be difficult. With the coils, to get the up travel they would need
 to sit between the wheel and the frame which is not feasible. Without
 doing this the up travel is limited when the coils crush together. To
 get the same travel as the leaf setup an effective lift of 16 in would
 need to be added making the vehicle unstable to say the least. TonkaTuf2
 already has extreme travel and this is an upgrade to that, to make it
 any higher than what's needed for articulation and to clear tyres, by
 going coils, is not in the plan. It is true you can get around these
 problems but the expense is high and the computer modelling shows that
 you still have in the end the same travel with more stresses. I'm not in
 the mood to build a new frame for TonkaTuf2 as I'm working on the frame
 for TonkaTuf3 already.
 James Stevenson (TonkaTuf)
 ______________________________________________________
 Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 12 Mar 1998 17:29:15 -0000
 From: runars@isbank.is
 Subject: Crossover Steering
 To: ryna10@email.sps.mot.com, toy4x4@tlca.org, runars@isbank.is
 In that case, that should mean that the drag-link is lateral with the
 average lift of 3 - 5 inches. and therefore no bumpsteer.  In theory
 there should be some but it is actually within error. No way to feel it.
 And in my books, suspension lifts over 5 inches are useless, and just
 produce more problems than can be solved properly, and in a clean
 manner.  With a suspension lift of 5 inches and a proper body lift of
 3"-4",  You will be able to fit 44" tires, even on a Hilux.  No need to
 go higher.
 Runar.> -----Original Message-----> From:	Jay Kopycinski [SMTP:ryna10@email.sps.mot.com]> Sent:	Thursday, March 12, 1998 5:04 PM> To:	Toyota 4x4 List; runars@isbank.is> Subject:	Crossover Steering>> runars@isbank.is wrote:>>>Those of you connsidering that Crossover swap.  The new sterring arm>>does bolt to the top of the passenger side knuckle, doesn't it? And> that>>makes the drag-link positoned above the leaf pack, right?>> Yes, that is correct.>>> Jay Kopycinski    '85 Toylet  (ROKTOY)
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 12 Mar 1998 10:03:32 -0700
 From: "Jay Kopycinski"  Subject: Crossover Steering
 To: Toyota 4x4 List , runars@isbank.is
 runars@isbank.is wrote:>Those of you connsidering that Crossover swap.  The new sterring arm>does bolt to the top of the passenger side knuckle, doesn't it? And that>makes the drag-link positoned above the leaf pack, right?
 Yes, that is correct.
 Jay Kopycinski    '85 Toylet  (ROKTOY)
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 13 Mar 1998 12:34:32 -0800
 From: "Brandon Miller"  Subject: Crossover Steering
 To: >In that case, that should mean that the drag-link is lateral with the>average lift of 3 - 5 inches. and therefore no bumpsteer.  In theory>there should be some but it is actually within error. No way to feel it.> Any idea why I never felt any bumpsteer before I went to the crossover and
 now that I have it and the drag link is horizontal, it has some pretty
 severe bumpsteer?  I wouldn't go back but I do notice it more.  The only
 thing that does not seem perfect with the system is that when I bolted the
 box up to my 83' frame the output is not in line with the steering column,
 it points toward the drivers side mirror- would this have an effect?  I am
 going to try to shim the bax soon. The only other thing is that my other
 steering shaft had a spline in it and this one does not - two universals and
 a rag joint.>And in my books, suspension lifts over 5 inches are useless, and just>produce more problems than can be solved properly, and in a clean>manner.
 Probably true, a friend of mine has 6" springs with shackles (no body lift)
 and he has more problems than you could imagine.>>>>>Those of you connsidering that Crossover swap.  The new sterring arm>>>does bolt to the top of the passenger side knuckle, doesn't it? And>> that>>>makes the drag-link positoned above the leaf pack, right?>> Some people do just bolt it on but I wouldn't do that.  The leverage on
 those bolts is a bit much, weld the two arms together with a metal plate
 between the two or buy one of the precast ones....
 /\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\
 Brandon Miller
 Sacramento CA
 email - miller@csus.edu
 home page - http://gaia.ecs.csus.edu/~millerb
 /\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 12 Mar 1998 06:27:21 PST
 From: "C.G. Smith"  Subject: Dynomax muffler???????
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Anybody out there had experience with adding the Dynomax super
 turbo.???????..Exhaust is in great shape....just wondering whether it or
 any other aftermarket muffler is worth the effort???? Do not want a
 weed-eater-on crack sound either.Any input greatly appreciated!!!!!!!!1
 '89 4 Runner....only 95k..not broken in yet. First 4 Runner, but my 8th
 TOY 4x4..31's..K&N.Centerforce.....Buildup to come.....
 ______________________________________________________
 Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 12 Mar 1998 11:29:31 -0500
 From: Rob Ditusa  Subject: Dynomax muffler???????
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 I installed one in my 1980 longbed, but I also installed a header, free flow
 cat, and all 2 1/2" piping at the same time, so I can't tell you exactly how
 just the muffler sounds, but overall, there's a nice deep rumble. I actually
 wanted something louder, but it still sounds good.
 RD
 http://www.geocities.com/baja/4407>>> "C.G. Smith"  03/12/98 09:27am>>> Anybody out there had experience with adding the Dynomax super
 turbo.???????..
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 12 Mar 1998 08:32:43 -0700 (PDT)
 From: Jon Brandt  Subject: Dynomax muffler???????
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 I have used Dynomax mufflers several times:
 w/ a 2" exhaust - deep sound supprisingly not loud - much mellower than a
 Borla sound, ack!
 I currently have a 2 1/2" Dynomax system. Still, not very loud,
 significant power increases both times.
 Note: My truck is a turbo, and I hear the impeller helps to deaden sound
 a bit, so...
 Jon - jbrandt@csus.edu
 On Thu, 12 Mar 1998, C.G. Smith wrote:> Anybody out there had experience with adding the Dynomax super> turbo.???????..Exhaust is in great shape....just wondering whether it or> any other aftermarket muffler is worth the effort???? Do not want a> weed-eater-on crack sound either.Any input greatly appreciated!!!!!!!!1>>> '89 4 Runner....only 95k..not broken in yet. First 4 Runner, but my 8th> TOY 4x4..31's..K&N.Centerforce.....Buildup to come.....>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> ______________________________________________________> Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com> ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 12 Mar 1998 09:09:56 -0800
 From: KEN_WONG@hp-roseville-om3.om.hp.com
 Subject: Error Code 3
 I am having an intermittent problem with my 1985 fuel injected 4Runner
 (22RE).  Every once in a while (3000-5000 miles or so) while driving
 under normal conditions, the check engine light comes on for 2-3
 seconds and power drops off like the motor is not getting ignition.
 Then just as soon as the problem came, it goes away.  Thereafter the
 motor runs fine, no problems.  This has happened maybe a half a dozen
 times in the last 25,000 miles.
 Upon performing a diagnostic check, the error code 3 is presented
 (igniter, ignition coil or ECU problem).  I have attempted to
 troubleshoot this problem several times, changing the igniter,
 ignition coil and ECU with  what I assume are good  used units.
 I am just wondering if maybe the used igniter and coil which I
 installed were bad as well.  Do these items fail in this manner or do
 they fail hard (i.e. non-recoverable failures).
 Any thoughts would be appreciated.
 Ken Wong
 kwong@hp.com
 ------------------------------
 Date: 12 Mar 1998 08:16:08 -0800
 From: Dion Hollenbeck  Subject: heater fan
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org>> Chris Geiger writes:
 CG> It may be time to replace the heater resistor. It's real cheap
 CG> from the dealer. If the problem gets worse and the fan stops
 CG> working execpt on high than it's the resistor for sure. It's like
 CG> $15 I replaced the one on my 87 4Runner, real easy to do.
 Sounds like my problem.  Fan only works on high.  Where is the
 resistor and how do you get to it?
 thanks,
 dion
 `85 4Runner 22RE
 `86 4x4 PU 22RE
 Dion Hollenbeck (619)597-7080x164                 Email: hollen@vigra.com
 http://www.vigra.com/~hollen
 Sr. Software Engineer - Vigra Div. of Visicom Labs  San Diego, California
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 12 Mar 1998 09:03:28 -0800
 From: "Roger Brown P.E."  Subject: heater fan
 To: genegalyean@juno.com
 Eugene wrote:>> Today on the way home from work, I had my heater on and the fan at one of
 the medium speeds.  For some reason the fan stopped running and started
 running again a few minutes later.  It did the same thing on every speed
 except for off and high.  I haven't had a chance to check for any loose
 wiring or bad fuses.  Does any one on the list has had this problem
 before, or know what the problem could be.  I haven't done any eletrical
 work to the truck.
< Subject: heater fan
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org> Sounds like my problem.  Fan only works on high.  Where is the> resistor and how do you get to it?
 On my 87 4Runner in was behind and slightly above the stereo, should tell you
 in the service manual.
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 12 Mar 1998 14:36:07 -0500 (EST)
 From: Eli Madden  Subject: Junkyard Engines
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org
 Barney McNamara wrote->I will be replacing the engine in my '85 Toy truck soon, as I have lost
 all>compression in the #2 cylinder. I am going to swap in a "junkyard motor"
 of>the same vintage. It is a carbureted 22R.
 I would strongly recommend AGAINST this. I had an '87 (last year for
 carbs) put in my '83 and it burned oil (about a quart every 250 miles) and
 the timing chain started rattling. It supposedly only had 60k on it.
 Either they lied about the mileage, or it was because it had sat around
 for a couple years, which is BAD BAD BAD. I paid $600 for mine, plus $500
 install at Adamant Used Toyota in Adamant, VT.
 After about 11k the timing chain broke, luckily it didn't hit the valves
 (hmmmm, actually, maybe one got SLIGHTLY bent and I didn't notice it
 visually and that's my weird sound.....) and I just finished rebuilding it
 and am now working the bugs out.
 IF you do buy one, do a compression check and make sure you can return it
 for any reason. Even then I wouldn't recommend it. Your engine's
 compression problem might just require new rings......ever rebuilt an
 engine before? I just did my first and it wasn't so bad.
 Eli
 '83 SR5 4x4 w/ '87 22R
 eli@computeralt.com
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 12 Mar 1998 14:43:18 -0500
 From: "Tom Pechkovsky"  Subject: Junkyard Engines
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 How long did it take you to rebuild your engine, and what exactly did you rebuild, top, bottom, whole thing?>>> Eli Madden  03/12 2:36 PM>>> Barney McNamara wrote->I will be replacing the engine in my '85 Toy truck soon, as I have lost
 all>compression in the #2 cylinder. I am going to swap in a "junkyard motor"
 of>the same vintage. It is a carbureted 22R.
 I would strongly recommend AGAINST this. I had an '87 (last year for
 carbs) put in my '83 and it burned oil (about a quart every 250 miles) and
 the timing chain started rattling. It supposedly only had 60k on it.
 Either they lied about the mileage, or it was because it had sat around
 for a couple years, which is BAD BAD BAD. I paid $600 for mine, plus $500
 install at Adamant Used Toyota in Adamant, VT.
 After about 11k the timing chain broke, luckily it didn't hit the valves
 (hmmmm, actually, maybe one got SLIGHTLY bent and I didn't notice it
 visually and that's my weird sound.....) and I just finished rebuilding it
 and am now working the bugs out.
 IF you do buy one, do a compression check and make sure you can return it
 for any reason. Even then I wouldn't recommend it. Your engine's
 compression problem might just require new rings......ever rebuilt an
 engine before? I just did my first and it wasn't so bad.
 Eli
 '83 SR5 4x4 w/ '87 22R
 eli@computeralt.com
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 13 Mar 1998 02:23:30 EST
 From: "james stevenson"  Subject: lockers
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Raymond Wong wrote:> I was thinking of lockers or a winch.
 I assume that once you get lockers and can therefor get into harder
 places you will be doing so with buddies who have a winch. Rely on the
 buddy system in the short term. As for the winch I have used mine
 countless times for removing fallen trees (after cutting with chainsaw)
 from the trail and hauling up unlocked vehicles. I have never needed the
 winch to haul my vehicle. I would go the lockers then marlin gears. I'm
 using the 4.7 gears in both cases hard to beat with lockers both ends.
 Another alternative is a hand winch. I carry a Brano. A hand winch is
 great if you need to belay a vehicle.
 James Stevenson (TonkaTuf)
 ______________________________________________________
 Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 12 Mar 1998 11:09:05 -0800
 From: Raymond Wong  Subject: lockers
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 I'm just learning all about this stuff recently after a few trips out to
 the desert in Anza-Borrego.  I couldn't get up a heavily rutted dropoff due
 to wheel spin on my open diffs, and watched others climb it.  Needless to
 say, I'm jealous.  Can anyone tell me how the Detroit lockers function in
 regard to the auto engage/disengage?  Will these effect my 2 wheel driving
 on pavement?  Have you heard of problems with 1/4 turn roll back on the
 wheels which will disengage the lockers when  you really might needed it
 the most?
 How are soft lockers and EZ lockers different from the regular Detroit Lockers?
 I have a '94 4-Runner, 31x10.50, Bilstein Gas charged shocks, Pirelli
 Scorpions.
 Thanks, Ray.
 _________________________________________________
 Raymond
 e-mail: raymondw@presto.com
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 13 Mar 1998 12:37:42 -0800
 From: "Brandon Miller"  Subject: lockers
 To:  The lockers do not unluck, there is no unlock/lock button on them.  On the
 street they ratchet as the two plates with teeth on them pass by each other.
 If you hit the gas on a corner they will lock.  The drive is affected but
 you get used to it. You will find that you will be able to go places in 2
 wheel drive that you could not go in 4 wheel.
 - -----Original Message-----
 From: Raymond Wong  To: Toy4x4@tlca.org  Date: Thursday, March 12, 1998 11:11 AM
 Subject: lockers>I'm just learning all about this stuff recently after a few trips out to>the desert in Anza-Borrego.  I couldn't get up a heavily rutted dropoff due>to wheel spin on my open diffs, and watched others climb it.  Needless to>say, I'm jealous.  Can anyone tell me how the Detroit lockers function in>regard to the auto engage/disengage?  Will these effect my 2 wheel driving>on pavement?  Have you heard of problems with 1/4 turn roll back on the>wheels which will disengage the lockers when  you really might needed it>the most?>>How are soft lockers and EZ lockers different from the regular Detroit
 Lockers?>>I have a '94 4-Runner, 31x10.50, Bilstein Gas charged shocks, Pirelli>Scorpions.>>Thanks, Ray.>>>>_________________________________________________>Raymond>e-mail: raymondw@presto.com>> ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 12 Mar 1998 09:15:48 EST
 From: DRM033  Subject: looking for information
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 My apologies for this, but this is the best place I can think of to ask this
 question...
 If anyone has wandered across ANYTHING about trail modofied S10 Blazers (mid
 80's) on the web or people who have them, please respond to me PERSONALLY with
 a site address 7 a contact address of someone with one that is trail modofied.
 Thank you
 - ---------------------------------------------------------------------
 David Moore                       DRM033@aol.com
 90 Toyota Truck - 4" ProComp, 33" Swampers,
 4.88's, rear ARB, TJM bumper & Ramsey #8000
 TLCA #5662
 Traxx In Motion 4 Wheel Drive Club
 www.netmatter.com/traxx
 - ---------------------------------------------------------------------
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 12 Mar 1998 11:01:09 -0000
 From: runars@isbank.is
 Subject: Mean machines.  Few Details.
 To: 80_series@palladium.corp.sgi.com
 Here are few things about the Icelandic off-road racers.
 Most of them run paddle tires in the rear, but so called shovel tires up
 front (Xtrem paddles, remolded paddles).
 Suspensions are usually soft coils on all four with long travel.  So
 long travel that a steering linkage can't be used, so they use pure
 hydraulic steering, like many industrial machines use.  They are also
 far stronger than some linkage systems.  Those steering systems then
 found their way to the public marked as the hydraulic steering rams that
 replace the steering dampers.  Bumpstops are usually LC 80-series rear
 rubbers.
 The engine-gearbox are mounted in the center of the machine. The driver
 is usually positioned in the rear, just about atop of the rear axle.
 Engines are V8, with nitro and other such stuff.  Around 600 - 1000 hp.
 Almost all are automatics, and they usually don't have low ranges.
 Most popular axles are Dana44 front and Ford 9" in rear, heavily
 modified of course,  Actually so much modified they don't share much
 from the originals....  One used Fords Twin Traction Beams on both ends,
 with steering on both.  Cute.
 Weelbase I estimate is a bit over 3 m on most.  No overhangs front or
 rear.
 Weight about 1300 - 1500 kg.  Rolling them is no big deal.  Just roll it
 around again and keep on going.  The rollcage is xtrem strong.  Front
 "bull-bars" are used to protect the hood in rollovers.
 Drivers safety is most concerned.  Along the Race courses are fellows
 with fire extinghisters (and of course a ambulance and such stuff), and
 the drivers are dressed in Rally suits.  Those are fire-resisted or fire
 proof.  The drivers are also requested to be wearing neck collars, to
 prevent neck damage.  Helmets are closed.  5 or 4 point seatbelts.  Also
 the drivers hands are kind of tied into the cab (with ropes), to make
 sure they can't drop them outside the rollcage in rollovers. Therefore
 strictly speaking the drivers can almost only look forward, and steer!
 The biggest danger to the drivers are if they loose control in the
 mud-pits and roll.
 Fuel tank maybe 5 gallons...!
 Those machines are driving up vertical walls, that is, up slopes that
 begin at maybe 45 deg, and end in complete 90deg cliffs (Query walls
 usually).  The trick to go up them is to keep enough speed to let the
 suspension kind of smooth out the short cliff.  Sometimes they don't and
 then the crowd goes mad.....!  Sometimes the go to fast and then it
 really airs up under the tires.  I think the height record of jumping
 that way is about 10 m....!  Sometimes they have to start in the middle
 of the hill...
 Then the next obstacle is to traverse that same hill sideways....  Speed
 and Mr. Newton often help there....
 Of course then there is the waterwalking.  I kind of believe this is
 something that comes from the snowmobile crowd.  (If you drive a
 snowmobile fast enough, it floats like a boat.  One fellow drove over a
 narrow fjord on the north coast once on a snowmobile (snowsled?)  I
 Guess the next step is to get hold of Santa's techniques...). Then maybe
 somebody just got angry at the water and floored the bitch, and to his
 surprise drove over it.   Who knows....   Crazy? Yes, Nuts? yes.  Fun?
 I bet it is.
 This is the unlimited class of course.  There is also a street class,
 and after last summer they where also aloud to run paddles, and
 therefore  the gap between the classes get very short.  The Street class
 needs otherwise to withstand license examination, for street use.  I've
 even seen one drive home after a competition, some 200km....!
 - ------------------------------------------------------------
 Runar Sigurjonsson
 runars@isbank.is
 - ------------------------------------------------------------
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 12 Mar 98 12:56:34 -0000
 From: "Brent M. Dombrowski"  Subject: My Passanger Door Handle Won't Work
 To: >B. Baldwin, BWSC Marketing wrote:>>>> I just got my '88 pickup and the passenger door won't open from the inside.>> It works fine from the outside. It feels exactly the same as the driver's>> handle (the same tension, etc.), but it doesn't open the door. Taking the>> door panel off didn't reveal the problem. Any suggestions?>>There's really no magic in there. If you don't see the problem with the>door panel off, you might try taking off the other door panel to see how>things are supposed to look. It's all in the mechanical linkage.>>Jeff Delzer
 Don't know if this will help, but here it goes.  I Honda that had the
 same problem.  The inside door handle worked off a cable.  The outside
 one worked off rods and links.  The cable streched out over the years and
 finally got to the point it couldn't open the door.  A new cable fixed it
 right up.
 bd
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 12 Mar 1998 13:03:41 -8 GMT
 From: "Leo G. Divinagracia III"  Subject: My passenger door handle won't work
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org> From: breeze@cysource.com (Jeffrey Delzer)>> B. Baldwin, BWSC Marketing wrote:>>>> I just got my '88 pickup and the passenger door won't open from the inside.>> It works fine from the outside. It feels exactly the same as the driver's>> handle (the same tension, etc.), but it doesn't open the door. Taking the>> door panel off didn't reveal the problem. Any suggestions?>> There's really no magic in there. If you don't see the problem with the> door panel off, you might try taking off the other door panel to see how> things are supposed to look. It's all in the mechanical linkage.> chances are, the plastic door release broke a link inside the panel.  i had
 to pay over $20 for a new one.  watch out, the handle assembly has to be slid
 forward before you can pull it out, at least on my 90 4runner rear door...
 - -----------------------
 Leo G. Divinagracia III
 ldivinag@csuhayward.edu
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 12 Mar 1998 13:13:24 EST
 From: DRM033  Subject: need fender flare info
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 This one goes out to all the people that have access to info on custom fender
 flares.  I have a friend that will be needing a set.  (This has to do with the
 post about the S10)  He is going to gut a S10 Blazer, and will be putting 44"
 tires on, & major tire coverage & cutting will be necessary.  I know several
 people on the list have access to these (Iceland people?) & if you could reply
 direct to me - again, I would appreciate it.
 High prices are not a real problem if the product is what he is looking for.
 David
 DRM033@aol.com
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 12 Mar 1998 06:56:36 -0600
 From: "Edward C. Fisher"  Subject: Noisy valves
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org>> I know this has probably been beat to death..but are there any Toyota>> techs out there that can explain my noisy 89 22RE?? Valves are adjusted>> per service manual.........TWICE!!!!...Engine runs GREAT!!
 One other comment before it is deemed a dead horse with noisy valves.
 Overtightening the rocker arm cover can change the lash since it is bolted
 onto the rocker arm assembly.  Too much torque on the bolts/nuts can lift
 the assembly ever so slightly.
 Also, my friend the Toyota wizard, (kinda like Jim B., my other hero) a
 Toyota Tech for 20+ years, said that he sets the valves COLD.  That's right,
 only he sets them to 7 and 11 instead of 8 and 12.  So, being the trusting
 soul that I am I set mine cold...then checked them hot with a good go-no-go
 gauge and they were indeed dead nuts.  Last time I will burn my hands
 getting the cover off while the engine is good and 'operating temp' hot.
 Ed Fisher
 92 4x4
 85 Supra
 85 Camry (wife's)
 - -----------------------------------------------------------
 Edward C. Fisher                      E-Mail: edwd@ti.com
 Package Engineering Team              Phone:  (972) 995-6305
 DMD Components Group                  Pager:  (972) 410-4669
 Texas Instruments, Inc. Dallas, Tx.   MSGID:  EDWD
 - -----------------------------------------------------------
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 12 Mar 1998 09:30:28 -0500
 From: N645A22 K Quijada Rick  Subject: Noisy valves
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand
 this format, some or all of this message may not be legible.
 - ------ =_NextPart_001_01BD4D99.7FBCB310
 Content-Type: text/plain
>>> I know this has probably been beat to death..but are there any> Toyota>>> techs out there that can explain my noisy 89 22RE?? Valves are> adjusted>>> per service manual.........TWICE!!!!...Engine runs GREAT!!>> Also, my friend the Toyota wizard, (kinda like Jim B., my other hero)> a> Toyota Tech for 20+ years, said that he sets the valves COLD.  That's> right,> only he sets them to 7 and 11 instead of 8 and 12.  So, being the> trusting> soul that I am I set mine cold...then checked them hot with a good> go-no-go> gauge and they were indeed dead nuts.
 I had a Western Auto remanufactured 22R engine
 installed in my '86 SB at 100,000 miles (a long story).  The engine was
 noisy and the techs (not Western Auto) adjusted the valves several times
 and finally said: "It runs fine; it's just one of those noisy engines.
 Sorry."
 8,000 miles later, I had the truck in a shop in a small
 VA town for something totally unrelated when the tech commented on the
 valve noise.    I told him that no one else had been able to quiet the
 engine, but that it ran well.    He said that he could almost guarantee
 that he could make it run quieter; I said to give it a shot.
 He adjusted to valves to 7 and 11 with the engine cold.
 Now it purrs!  That was four months ago and I still feel good about it.
 Rick Quijada
 '86 Toyota 4x4, SB, 2.4L, 5-spd, 31x10.50 BFG AT's, bed lid,
 40-ch CB
 Norfolk, VA    TLCA, UFWDA, VFWDA
 - ------ =_NextPart_001_01BD4D99.7FBCB310
 [ HTML code removed - Admin ]
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 12 Mar 1998 10:01:07 -0700
 From: "Jay Kopycinski"  Subject: on-board air -A/C compressor
 To: Toyota 4x4 List  runars@isbank.is wrote:>However, using a tank and a compression switch is something I, IMHO,>don't recomend.  That way you are kind of overbuilding things.  (We have>one such system).  A better way is just to connect the hose straight to>the AC pump, and make sure that the hose is competly open, so that air>will start flowing out of it the second you switch on the pump.  You>don't gain anything with a tank, and it just adds more componets that>can broke down, and it adds weight.  Been there done that, ain't going>to do it again.
 One good thing about adding a small reservoir is that it helps build
 a good little volume to provide good blasts of air for an impact gun.>Another completly free trick to speed up the airing up and down progress>even more is to remove the stem from the tire valve.  Use a good sealed>metal cab instead.
 Good idea.
 Jay Kopycinski    '85 Toylet  (ROKTOY)
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 12 Mar 1998 17:21:08 -0000
 From: runars@isbank.is
 Subject: on-board air -A/C compressor
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org> -----Original Message-----> From:	Jay Kopycinski [SMTP:ryna10@email.sps.mot.com]> Sent:	Thursday, March 12, 1998 5:01 PM> To:	Toy4x4@tlca.org> Subject:	on-board air -A/C compressor>> runars@isbank.is wrote:>>>>However, using a tank and a compression switch is something I, IMHO,>>don't recomend.  That way you are kind of overbuilding things.  (We> have>>one such system).  A better way is just to connect the hose straight> to>>the AC pump, and make sure that the hose is competly open, so that> air>>will start flowing out of it the second you switch on the pump.  You>>don't gain anything with a tank, and it just adds more componets that>>can broke down, and it adds weight.  Been there done that, ain't> going>>to do it again.>> One good thing about adding a small reservoir is that it helps build> a good little volume to provide good blasts of air for an impact gun.> [-->>  ]  In theory it is,  however our experience has been the
 opposide, But it might just be because our system ain't good enough.
 Everytime we try to pump with the engine running above idle, something
 just breaks.  Also there seems to be to much restriction in the system,
 so even at idle the pump is switching on and off at times, implying it
 is pumping faster than the total system.  Without all this, you can
 simply floor the bitch without any worries, and then it pumps FAST.  All
 air and hydraulic systems have all kinds of valves (with stems) that
 reduce the effective flow of the system.
 Runar.>>Another completly free trick to speed up the airing up and down> progress>>even more is to remove the stem from the tire valve.  Use a good> sealed>>metal cab instead.>> Good idea.> [-->>  ]  The speed diffrence of inflating without the stem, I guess, is
 about 100% with not so powerful pump.
 Runar '85 Turbo SnowToy.> Jay Kopycinski    '85 Toylet  (ROKTOY)
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 13 Mar 1998 12:23:50 -0800
 From: "Brandon Miller"  Subject: on-board air -A/C compressor
 To: >>>Another completly free trick to speed up the airing up and down progress>>even more is to remove the stem from the tire valve.  Use a good sealed>>metal cab instead.> cap right ;)
 Be careful there, I have a core remover tool that I keep on the stem.  I
 remove the core for about ten seconds and check it.  Usually takes about a
 minute a tire that way (or less).  I would not leave the core out though,
 you are trusting that seal a little too much in my opinion but it would work
 I suppose.  Just spend your $ 40 for the caps that automatically let the air
 out down to a preset pressure.  Screw em on at the trail head and take them
 off a little way down the trail, DONE.
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 12 Mar 1998 09:08:10 -0500
 From: "penny"  Subject: on board air
 To:  Are toyota compressors the type that puke oil??? Mine hasnt put out 1 drop
 since installing on board air a month and a half ago. I have run several
 air tools, 1/2"
 impact (removing wheels) air cut off tool (cutting 1/4" angle iron) airing
 up tires after wheeling etc. I have even placed a white cloth over the
 output side of the compressor and get no oil residue.... whats the real
 truth behind this?
 I used 2 straw fulls of 20w50 motor oil to lube the compressor also.
 theres a few pics of the system im using under "cheap tricks" on my page.
 Jimmy 82Toy4x4 L.B.
 purnrgy@quancon.com
 http://www.geocities.com/baja/6397/
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 12 Mar 1998 15:51:33 -0000
 From: runars@isbank.is
 Subject: on board air
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 We deffinatly don't have a Toyota one, but they look slim and nice.....
 and easy to fit.
 In your case, the air tank in the back might just be filling up.....!
 Runar.> -----Original Message-----> From:	penny [SMTP:purnrgy@quancon.com]> Sent:	Thursday, March 12, 1998 2:08 PM> To:	Toy4x4@tlca.org> Subject:	on board air>> Are toyota compressors the type that puke oil??? Mine hasnt put out 1> drop> since installing on board air a month and a half ago. I have run> several> air tools, 1/2"> impact (removing wheels) air cut off tool (cutting 1/4" angle iron)> airing> up tires after wheeling etc. I have even placed a white cloth over the> output side of the compressor and get no oil residue.... whats the> real> truth behind this?> I used 2 straw fulls of 20w50 motor oil to lube the compressor also.> theres a few pics of the system im using under "cheap tricks" on my> page.> Jimmy 82Toy4x4 L.B.> purnrgy@quancon.com> http://www.geocities.com/baja/6397/
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 12 Mar 1998 09:33:13 -0500
 From: Karl Bellve  Subject: Performance Products and TJM Bumpers
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 I ordered a TJM bumper (T-13) from them late last week. I was taking
 advantage of the 15% off. I was told at the time that they only had one T-13
 in stock for my vehicle and they couldn't confirm whether it has been taken
 already. I ordered it anyway and I was told to call back this week to
 confirm that it had been shipped. I called Tuesday, and Jackie, my sales
 rep, couldn't say if it was shipped. Jackie asked me to call her back in
 about 2 days since the person involved with shipping TJM bumpers was just
 arriving back from Australia. Well, I forgot to call Jackie and she called
 me instead. She told me that my bumper was shipped on Wednesday from Georgia
 and should get to me soon (via truck shipment). Yahoo!  Jackie was very
 pleasant to work with. Now, I wonder what my workmates will think when I get
 this huge bumper delivered to my office ;-) (they only ship to a business
 address)
 Cheers,
 Karl Bellve, Ph.D.
 Biomedical Imaging Group
 University of Massachusetts
 email: kdb@molmed.ummed.edu
 www  : http://molmed.ummed.edu/~kdb/
 phone: 508-856-3785
 fax  : 508-856-1840
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 12 Mar 1998 10:09:50 -0800
 From: "Jaye E. Mondale"  Subject: Personal Biography
 To:  Personal Bio Info:
 Mr. Jaye E. Mondale
 Elko, NV
 USA
 jaye@cyberhighway.net
 1991 Toyota Extra-Cab 4X4
 Not currently a TLCA member, but I will be sending for more info.
 Gold Miner/Heavy Equipment Operator
 Married, two children
 My hobbies are:  working on my Toyota, my PC, around my yard.  Camping,
 Traveling, Woodworking.
 I found out about this news letter on the Off-road Magazine web site.
 I bought my truck new in 1991.  It is grey metalic, with a matching shell.
 I have installed a NW Offroad two inch spring/torsion bar lift, and am
 currently running BFG 31X10.50 All Terrains.  It has a Manik Brush bar with
 Hella fog lights, MSD Spark plug wires, a K&N Filter and other misc.
 cosmetic upgrades.  I would really like to add a locker or limited slip of
 some kind to the rear axle, and some performace mods to the engine such as
 exhaust, ignition, and air intake upgrades.  Seven years old, and still
 definitely a work in progress!
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 12 Mar 1998 13:01:07 -8 GMT
 From: "Leo G. Divinagracia III"  Subject: reproducing old Four Wheeler articles
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org>> Hello, I finally got an OK to post selected Four Wheeler articles on my> Web page.> If anyone knows of articles that deal with TOYOTA'S please e-mail me and> let me know the month and page and I will first see if I can find the> issue (I lack in issues of Four Wheeler magazine)
 they ran a series of build-up on a 4wd blue toy pickup, probably the last 3
 years or so.  tons of major off road add-ons, not just a brush guard here, a
 nerf bar there.  then they rolled it in the rubicon...
 also, they ran an article for v6 JP-eater install.  i have a copy of that
 issue if you want.
 then they did a 2wd white pickup build-up.  i remember doing an ARB install in
 that, downey front suspension, a cool tire rack in the bed.
 they also did a cheapie diff breather install...  but we all know about that
 by now... 8-)
 - -----------------------
 Leo G. Divinagracia III
 ldivinag@csuhayward.edu
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 12 Mar 1998 07:52:48 -0500
 From: "T. Christopher Dunn"  Subject: Shifter arm on 89 Runner
 To:  I finally got around to putting on the Trail Master 3 inch body lift, still
 have some tweaking to do like hanging front Bumper.
 With the new lift the angle of the shifter arms are changed and with the 45
 degree bend in the gear arm it is imposible to shift the gears with the
 dust boots on.  Is this the arm I am suppose to bend?  Can I just by an
 after market arm and if so from whom?
 Another thing in all the instructions that I read it said that the steering
 arm or shaft would have to be adjusted to strecth further but mine wasnt
 and seems to work ok is that alright or will I be trying to make a turn one
 day and the car will just go straight?
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 12 Mar 1998 08:55:53 -0800
 From: Barney McNamara  Subject: Speedometer correction
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org, hanley@VNET.IBM.COM
 Joe asked:>I just upgraded tires from 225/75 (Bridgestone Duelers)>to 31x10.5 (Dunlop Radial Rovers RV).  I recall seeing>a formula to determine the correct speed ... I just>can't seem to find it.  I am more interested in determining>the correct gas mileage.
 As far as speed changes caused by gears, tires, etc, I use this formula
 (which I got from Jay's book.):
 MPH = (Engine RPM x Tire Diameter (in inches) x 0.003 ) divided by
 (Transmission Gear Ratio x Transfer Case Ratio x Final Drive Ratio)
 Example: RPM x  tire   x constant) / (5th gear x xfer hi x stock diffs)
 (3000RPM x 29.75 x   0.003)  / (0.85    x 1.00    x 4.11) = 76.6 MPH
 The tire diameter must be measure carefully, as it will impact the
 formula greatly. What you can see is that everything is directly
 proportional. That is, a change in tire diameter from 28 inches
 to 31 inches, (31-28) / 28 = 10.7%  will impact speed by 10.7%.
 And likewise, a diff gear change from 4.11 to 4.88,
 (4.88-4.11) / 4.11 = 18.7% will affect speed by the same amount.
 Since the tire diameter is on the left side of the division sign,
 larger tires give higher speed. The gear ratios are on the right side
 of the division sign, so higher gear ratios give lower speed.
 The speedometer measures the driveshaft RPM at the output of the
 transfer case, so the truck is designed to automatically correct for
 changes in gear ratio in the transmission and transfer case. The
 speedo is calibrated for the stock tire size and stock diff ratios,
 so changing those will affect the speedo reading. The amount of change
 in the speedometer reading can be figured out by calculating the
 amount of change the modifications have made on their component
 of the equation.
 ______________________________________________________________
 Barney McNamara              JENNY - 83 Toyota Short Bed
 ( barney@flowpoint.com )     stock 22R motor ; 3" body lift
 Santa Cruz, Ca.              8" alloy rims; 31" BFG A/Ts
 homepage: http://www.scruz.net/~barneym/barnhome.htm
 ______________________________________________________________
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 12 Mar 1998 09:58:29 -0700
 From: "Jay Kopycinski"  Subject: SR5 tach to work with a ford 5.0L  cpu
 To: Toyota 4x4 List  TNTLGCA  wrote:
 Subject: SR5 tach to work with a ford 5.0L  cpu>I just saw some people out in toyota land talking about the ajustments need so>the tach will still remain in spec after doing a v-8 conversion in a 86 4>runner...
 Check out the info on the off-road.com Toy page..........
 Jay Kopycinski    '85 Toylet  (ROKTOY)
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 12 Mar 1998 13:44:08 -0500 (EST)
 From: Eli Madden  Subject: Strange sound
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org
 I'm thinking my strange high-pitched noise might be a vacuum leak (well,
 actually hoping!). It gets louder when I am compression braking or
 accelerating, is this when the vacuum is greatest? It seems to be coming
 from the back-passenger side of the engine, and seems to be in time with
 the valves.......
 Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 Thanks!
 Eli
 '83 SR5 4x4 w/ '87 22R
 eli@computeralt.com
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 12 Mar 1998 07:46:58 -0500
 From: "Mark W. Hendricks"  Subject: Supercharger for 97 4runner
 To: "'4Runner newsgroup'"  I saw a toyota ad in Car&Driver this month about the CART toyota support
 trucks and it said something about a 3.4L 270hp V6 with a supercharger
 done by the Toyota Racing Development (TRD) group.  Does anyone know if
 they plan to make this supercharger kit available to 97 4runners?  And
 how it will affect warranty coverage?  My hope is that since it's a
 toyota product, the warranty would be unaffected.  Let me know if you've
 heard anything.  thanks.
 Mark
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 12 Mar 1998 09:38:32 -0600 (CST)
 From: "Bruce Burden"  Subject: Supercharger for 97 4runner
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org>> done by the Toyota Racing Development (TRD) group.  Does anyone know if> they plan to make this supercharger kit available to 97 4runners?  And> The SC will fit any truck equipped with the 3.4L V-6,
 whether it be Taco, T-100 or 4Runner.>> how it will affect warranty coverage?  My hope is that since it's a> It won't effect warranty coverage.>> toyota product, the warranty would be unaffected.> It isn't a Toy product. Few things TRD offers are. Who
 makes it, exactly, I don't know. However, TRD is selling it,
 so it is considered an OEM product, apparently.
 There will be a TRD 4Runner out this year which comes
 standard with the SC. Toy's bone for the 4Runner crowd, like
 the TRD Taco last year for the Taco crowd.
 Bruce
 - --
 - -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 Bruce Burden            bruceb@isd.tandem.com         Tandem Computers Inc.
 512-432-8944            Network Verification          14231 Tandem Blvd.
 Auto answer(4 rings)                                  Austin, TX 78726
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 12 Mar 1998 11:57:47 -0600
 From: HOFFMASTER TODD  Subject: Tacoma Lockers
 To: "'Toy4x4@tlca.org'"  Does anybody have a front locker in their Tacoma, yet? How easy was it to
 install?
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 12 Mar 1998 13:25:17 -0600 (CST)
 From: "Bruce Burden"  Subject: Tacoma Lockers
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org>> Does anybody have a front locker in their Tacoma, yet? How easy was it to> install?> Only one is PowerTrax Lock Right - #1611 I believe. I don't
 know how fun it was to install, but I think the answer was "not
 much". I had it done. Didn't have a lift, ball joint breakers,
 etc. etc. etc.
 Bruce
 - --
 - -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 Bruce Burden            bruceb@isd.tandem.com         Tandem Computers Inc.
 512-432-8944            Network Verification          14231 Tandem Blvd.
 Auto answer(4 rings)                                  Austin, TX 78726
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 12 Mar 1998 09:07:55 -0800
 From: "Bob Williams"  Subject: Toy4x4 Digest V1 #758
 To: >> Date: Wed, 11 Mar 1998 13:21:55 -0800> From: schmidt2@gte.net> Subject: fender trimming> To: Toy4x4@tlca.org>> Just a few days ago, I purchased some BFGoodrich Radial Mud Terrain> tires for my 1985 4x4. They are 33X12.50. They fit pretty well, but I> would like to trim the fenders for some additional clearance. Does any> one have any tips to give me before I hack away on my truck? I'm only> 16, and I don't have a lot of experience on doing this, and I need all> the help I could get. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 Go to your local tool rental shop.  Get a sawzall, and a small grinder.
 You should be able to rent them for about $30 for both for a day.
 Drive on some rocks, etc. to see where your tires are rubbing, and trim the
 fender there.  You may have to get a big hammer and pound the back of the
 front inner fender wells a bit.  When your springs compress on the front
 suspension, the shackle moves back, and so then does the front axle, which
 allows the tire to move up and back into the fender well.
 When you are trimming, start at the outer corners and take a little off at
 a time, and then more if needed.  Use a magic marker or a pencil to mark
 lines where you want to cut.  Then use the grinder to smooth your cut.
 Remember, when you get done you want your truck to still look good!  Check
 with a local body shop or a four wheel drive shop or club in your area to
 get some hints and tips.  Who knows, you might even find someone to give
 you a hand.
 Also, your truck now has tires that are 6ply rated.  They are heavy duty
 tires, and your Toyota is nowhere near heavy enough to ever load these
 tires.  If you have 8" wide rims, or if you are running factory rims, it
 would be ok to fill your tires with about 24 PSI for street pressure.  This
 will give you a better ride, and help the tires wear evenly across the
 tread.  You may notice a drop in fuel mileage though due to the extra
 rolling resistance.  Drive through a water puddle, then look at the tread
 marks on the dry pavement to make sure that the tread is laid out flat on
 the road.  Never run you tires on the street below 20PSI though.  Also, it
 is necessary to rotate the tires front to back every 3000 to 5000 miles to
 help them wear well.
 Good luck,
 Bob Williams, Las Vegas, Nevada
 94 4Runner, SR5, 22RE, 5Spd, 4" Procomp lift, Marlin Crawler, Dual T-case
 BFG 33's, 4.88's, lockrite locker front, Detroit Soflocker rear. Dents and
 scratches continually increasing in size and number!
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 13 Mar 1998 12:27:32 -0800
 From: "Brandon Miller"  Subject: Toy4x4 Digest V1 #758
 To: >> Just a few days ago, I purchased some BFGoodrich Radial Mud Terrain>> tires for my 1985 4x4. They are 33X12.50. They fit pretty well, but I>> would like to trim the fenders for some additional clearance. Does any>> one have any tips to give me before I hack away on my truck? I'm only>> 16, and I don't have a lot of experience on doing this, and I need all>> the help I could get. Any help would be greatly appreciated.>> I marked a line where I wanted the fender trimmed back to, and then I took
 out a little alligator saw or whatever they are called (small hand metal
 saw) and cut slity up to the line every inch or so.  Then I bent the tabs
 over and it looks pretty clean.  Be carefull with a sawzall, they cut too
 easily and not exactly all that straight, I'd use a jigsaw first but if you
 don't feel up to the power tools don't use them, I didn't.
 /\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\
 Brandon Miller
 Sacramento CA
 email - miller@csus.edu
 home page - http://gaia.ecs.csus.edu/~millerb
 /\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 12 Mar 1998 11:45:02 -0800
 From: Raymond Wong  Subject: TRD lockers
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Has anyone had the TRD Locking Diffs installed on their 4-Runner?  If you
 have, please tell me how they turned out for you.
 _________________________________________________
 Raymond
 e-mail: raymondw@presto.com
 1994 4-Runner 4WD SR5 V6, 31x10.50x15 Pirelli Scorpions, TRD Bilstein Gas
 charged Shocks
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 12 Mar 1998 13:50:31 -0600 (CST)
 From: "Bruce Burden"  Subject: TRD lockers
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org>> Has anyone had the TRD Locking Diffs installed on their 4-Runner?  If you> have, please tell me how they turned out for you.> For the looks, they are PowerTrax Lock Right units. So,
 and comments about Lock Rights apply to the TRD units.
 Bruce
 - --
 - -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 Bruce Burden            bruceb@isd.tandem.com         Tandem Computers Inc.
 512-432-8944            Network Verification          14231 Tandem Blvd.
 Auto answer(4 rings)                                  Austin, TX 78726
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 12 Mar 1998 09:16:30 -0800
 From: "Roger Brown P.E."  Subject: Wheel Spacers
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Doug asked:>> Is there any specific length the studs should be?  I have closed-end
 lugs.  Anyone else have any experience in this?
< Subject: Winches....Lockers.etc......
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 I've only been wheelin' for about 8 years, and I have never been to the
 left coast to Moab..rubicon..etc. Most of my wheelin is thick, sticky,
 Carolina clay / mud.and since I've been in VA, the black mud that pretty
 much rules VA. My current 89 Runner is my 8th 4x TOY.  I've had two
 different lifted solid axle trucks with big meats.one had 35's and one
 had 36's. Both I had to regear, and the proved themselves many times
 deep in the woods while hunting or just exploring. Winches are
 great..but like some guy here said earlier, you end up using it  mostly
 to  unstick other vehicles...not your own. Lockers are great, but I
 still am a firm believer that driver skill can put a truck further into
 the rough stuff than any other bolt-on. Just my opinion, I don't mean to
 step on anybody's toes. I've been stuck many times...but I always carry
 a logging chain with hooks....and a good old-fashioned come-along. These
 have never failed to get me out if needed.  I think TOYS tend to perform
 better in deep mud because they can almost float across the
 surface...not sinking and digging as many full-sizes I've seen and owned
 tend to do. Just last week I went back toSC where I'm from and went
 trekking with a couple of fully rigged trucks...fullsize..lockers, BIG
 tires, etc..etc. They were continually amazed..and a little pissed off
 that my mostly stock 'Runner could handle anything they could..except
 for DEEP..I mean DEEP water. All this with open diffs, a 4cyl, and
 little 31's.  Some trails they had to find a way around, or if stuck
 they couldn't even begin to turn around. I almost got nailed on the last
 section we went through..about 4 ft of mud...I am SERIOUS...As they
 watched drop jawed..I popped it down in 4wheel LO..and eased down into
 it. the mud was deep enough that another 6 inches or so and it would
 have been running in the truck. I eased thru with no problems...So to
 make a long story short. Before you buy lifts, wheels,
 winches..etc..Make sure your rig is mechanically sound and safe..no
 bolt-on will get you unstuck if you break a U-joint because it wasn't
 checked before..Sorry for the length......
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