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Toy4x4 Mailing List Digest v1n669

Publish date: Jan 21, 1998
By: ORC STAFF
Source: Off-Road.com

Toy4x4 Digest Wed, 21 Jan 98 12:30:02 (HST) Volume 1 : Issue 669
Today's Topics:
87 Window Crank
A/C compressor cycling
Backspacing (3 msgs)
Bio
body lift
Fort Hood CANCELED 24th & 25th of Jan.
Frank Raines OHV park, Jan 31
Fuel cut RPM
HG & Free Rental Car (2 msgs)
is this a sign of timing belt demise??? (5 msgs)
More on dual CB antennas (2 msgs)
Moscow mt.
Moscow mt. (air comp)
PowerTrax (2 msgs)
Rear axle oil seal replacement (3 msgs)
rental cars
Rubicon page
soft brakes
Speedo adjustment - rebuttle - rebuttle
Speedometer adjustment (5 msgs)
Speedometer adjustment - Here is what I Did....
Speedometer adjustment THANKS...
SPINGME
tach adj (2 msgs)
Tire tilted (3 msgs)
Toy4x4 Digest V1 #668
Truck Pricing (2 msgs)
vented disk swap: better stops? (3 msgs)
Wheel Backspacing
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 14:28:10 -0700 (MST)
From: James Womack Subject: 87 Window Crank
To: Toyota 4X4 I have an 87 P/U that has developed a stripped window crank problem. It
appears that the weather stripping has warped, causing the window to not
roll up completely. This has caused the window to become increasingly
difficult to roll up, and has caused the crank to strip.
I have heard that the only thing to do is buy a whole new mechanism for
the window roller. Is this true? If not, what do I need to buy and
replace, and is it possible to do this myself? It looks pretty difficult
to get into the door to do the work. Also, will this be costly? I am
planning on selling the truck, so I don't want to put too much $ into
it. I think the purchaser might pay more, however, if the window rolled
up completely.
Thanks for the help!
James S. Womack 87 PU 114K, 85 FJ60 Landcruiser 200K (okay, 196K!)
Department of Agronomy and Horticulture
Plant Genetic Engineering Laboratory
New Mexico State University
Las Cruces, NM 88003
505/646-5785
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 98 11:23:21 PST
From: "Donald Leamon" Subject: A/C compressor cycling
To: My '87 foreskinner's A/C system is acting up, again. When I first engage
the compressor at idle, RPM's rise (ok) but continue up to about 1200, then
the compressor disengages, RPM's fall back to idle, and the whole process
starts over again. It cycles like this about every two seconds.
The problem first occurred several years ago, and I had a Toyota dealer
service it. The repair was something along the lines of, "adjusting A/C
oscillator."
Any suggestions for self service?
- -dhl-
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 09:51:35 -0500
From: Ed.Wong@astramerck.com
Subject: Backspacing
To: gfrancis@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu, toy4x4@tlca.org>>> I know we've covered this before, but what is the correct backspacing for a
15x8 wheel on an IFS Toy? Suppose this wheel was sporting 32x11.5s, and
those meats wanted to remain inside the fenders.
<< Subject: Backspacing
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org, gfrancis@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu
Greg wrote:>I know we've covered this before, but what is the correct backspacing for a>15x8 wheel on an IFS Toy?
I have just finished adding 6 months worth of clips to my web pages,
including a new thread on this. You might want to check it out.
______________________________________________________________
Barney McNamara JENNY - 83 Toyota Short Bed
( barney@flowpoint.com ) stock 22R motor ; 3" body lift
Santa Cruz, Ca. 8" alloy rims; 31" BFG A/Ts
homepage: http://www.scruz.net/~barneym/barnhome.htm
______________________________________________________________
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 09:44:58 -0800
From: Chris Geiger Subject: Backspacing
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
The correct back spacing is 4.5" but the spair is 4.75" on many Toyotas.
I put a set of 8" American black spoke wheels with 33" tires on my
truck. These wheels have a 4.75" back spacing and work great. The larger
backspacing keeps the wheels under the truck so the tires don't stick
out. They come in white or black and they only cost $35 each.
Chris Geiger 93 4Runner http://geiger.mcl.ucsb.edu/offroad.html
Greg S. Francis wrote:> I know we've covered this before, but what is the correct backspacing> for a> 15x8 wheel on an IFS Toy? Suppose this wheel was sporting 32x11.5s,> and> those meats wanted to remain inside the fenders. Do I recall> correctly> that American Racing makes a type 62 wheel with the correct> backspacing?> Thanks.> Greg
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 11:05:30 -0500
From: "Christopher Chin" Subject: Bio
To: - -----Original Message-----
From: Toy4x4-Request To: chris@hcl.com Date: Friday, January 16, 1998 7:38 PM
Subject: Bio>Personal Bio Info>>POST TO THE LIST ONLY>> toy4x4@tlca.org>+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++>>Name: Chris Chin>>City & State: Toronto, Ontario>>Country: Canada>>E-mail address: chris@hcl.com>>Toyota (s) year & model: 1997 4Runner Limited>>Are you a TLCA Member (Y/N/Number?): no>>Age: 29>>Occupation: Systems Administrator>>Marital Status: single>>Hobbies: fishing, paintball>>How did you find out about the Toyota 4x4 Mailing List: browsing web>>General info about your vehicle, self, etc.:> ------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 15:02:49 -0500
From: "T. Christopher Dunn" Subject: body lift
To: I ahve an 89 4Runner and just got the Trail Master 3 inch body lift was
already to install when I notice that I have to bend the sterring, why is
this? Can I get by without doing this? If not how much would it cost to
have a shop do the install and how long should I expect it to take a shop
to complete such work? Thanks in advance
Chris
89 4Runner 33X12.50 BFGs
and soon to be 3inch lift
Looking for a light bar
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 13:31:19 -0600
From: dphills1@mmm.com
Subject: Fort Hood CANCELED 24th & 25th of Jan.
To: "Toy4x4(a)tlca.org" I'm sorry to report that it looks like the area's available for
off-road use will be closed to the public this coming weekend (24&25).
I hope that this doesn't wreck your plans if you had made them.
The Army doesn't have any interest in us having fun on their ground.
To truly verify if the area (sections 31,32 & 34) will be open is to
call the base 254-287-8398 and ask them if they are open for off-road
use. They can change their mind at the drop of a hat. I'm going to call
on Friday to verify for myself if the areas will be open. If they are I still
plan to go. If not I'll probably go out by Lakeway and mess around awhile.
If you want to go to Lakeway let me know.
Doug
dphills1@mmm.com
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 12:07:04 -0800
From: "Todd and Terry Steele" Subject: Frank Raines OHV park, Jan 31
To: "Toyota Digest" A friend is planning a trip to Frank Raines OHV park on 31 Jan. Details to
follow. There is a great write up on Roger Brown's page at
http://reality.sgi.com/rogerb/4x4/FrankRaines/index.html
If you are interested in meeting up, drop me a line and I'll let you know
the details.
Todd
His: 87 Toyota 4X4, Marlin Tcase #180, EZ Lockers F/R, Custom rear bumper
and nerfs, Ramsey F bumper, Trailmaster/Superlift 4", 33-9.5 BFG MT's.
Custom Body by Sierra Nevada.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 08:54:30 -0700
From: "Jay Kopycinski" Subject: Fuel cut RPM
To: Toyota 4x4 List ishi-tib@juno.com (J Doherty) wrote:> Here's the problem my 88 p/u dies when i hit the brakes. it runs>fine and has plenty of power till i have to slow down then it stalls. I>know there is a fuel cut RPM switch atached to the brakes but I have no>idea how to check the system and adjust . also the mas airflow sensor is>making noises. I know this is normaly a sign of timing problems but it's>at 5deg with the check conector shorted. Could they be related?
Could it be a leak in the brake booster causing a vacuum leak at the
intake manifold that then causes the engine to die?
You may try disconnecting the vacuum line, and plugging the intake
end and trying the brake test again.
Jay Kopycinski '85 Toylet (ROKTOY)
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 12:52:06 -0500
From: "Tong, Donald L" Subject: HG & Free Rental Car
To: "'dberger1@students.miami.edu'" This is just a thought, and seeing how your address is in Miami, I don't
know if something similar is available to you.
I live in California, and the state has a Bureau of Automotive Repair to
which consumers can submit complaints. I've used it before when I
thought a dealer charged me unfairly for some work related to a smog
check. The end result was that the BAR got the dealer to reimburse me
for the discrepancy, and also put the dealership on a two year
probation.
If Florida has a similar agency, you might want to give them a call and
see if they can provide any assistance.
Don Tong
donald.tong@unisys.com
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 12:59:23 -0500 (EST)
From: Cartman Subject: HG & Free Rental Car
To: Toyota4x4Digest > This is just a thought, and seeing how your address is in Miami, I don't> know if something similar is available to you.> I'm actually from Baltimore, MD - but I go to Univ of Miami. That's why
this is difficult because I have to get my brother (who lives in
Baltimore) to straighten some of this out.
I'm still waiting for the call from Toyota (CA) Headgasket department.
Hopefully they'll make some sense out of this. Is that who people have
called when they've gotten their HG's replaced at merchants OTHER than
Toyota?
- --
Doug
~ " What is Mind? no Matter. What is Matter? never Mind." ~
--Homer J Simpson
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 10:08:38 -0800
From: "Roger Brown P.E." Subject: is this a sign of timing belt demise???
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Darren wrote:>> Leo,this sounds more like a tacometer problem to me.You say this happens
............................^^^^^^^^^
< Subject: is this a sign of timing belt demise???
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
I think i need to learn how to spell.Tacometer=Tachometer?
Darren
Roger Brown P.E. wrote:>> Darren wrote:>>>> Leo,this sounds more like a tacometer problem to me.You say this happens> ............................^^^^^^^^^> <<>> I thought those were only installed in the Tacomas :-)>> --> Roger Brown, P.E. mailto:rogerb@sgi.com> +1.650.933.1898 (vmail) +1.650.932.1898 (fax)> http://reality.sgi.com/rogerb/> Check out the SGI EuroDev Forum: http://www-devprg.sgi.de/Forum98/
------------------------------
Date: 21 Jan 1998 10:52:59 -0800
From: Robert Elsemore Subject: is this a sign of timing belt demise???
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org (Return requested),
Leo wrote:>while cruising at a stable speed, the RPM would jump about 200-300>for a couple seconds then drop back down to 'normal'. then once in a>while, it would jump an extra 1000, then hunt around to normal and>back up 1000 to 500 to 1000 and then back to normal.
Leo,
One more guess for ya: Perhaps it is a problem with the speedo
cable, sometimes binding and then letting go. This would "fool"
the speed sensor and cause the tranny to shift erratically.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 12:00:16 -8 GMT
From: "Leo G. Divinagracia III" Subject: is this a sign of timing belt demise???
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org> From: Tony Bartlett >> No its not. Some people have mentioned torque converter lockup> problems.> What the lockup converter does is once in overdrive or some vehicles> will use lockup in 3rd it locks components of the converter so it is in> a 1:1 ratio. This will drop your rpm's about 200-300. You have this> problem a little but your bigger jumps are something else.> You might check what your rpm's do when cruising down the highway and> turn overdrive off. Does it increase around 1000RPM's?> I am not sure about Toyota's but most auto tranny's will not go into> overdrive when they are still cold. You might have a bad trans temp> sensor telling the computer it is cold while driving down the road.> This would put you back in 3rd gear. I am not sure if a cold trans also> cuts out the torque converter clutch (I would guess it would).> right. i went to the local toyota dealer, which is just down the hill from
my work, and a mechanic told me that it might be the sensor that lets the
tranny go into overdrive. they tell me to bring it in so they can hook up an
on-board diagnostic machine when they drive it.
funny thing is that the only thing new is the con-ferr tranny skid plate that
i added... hmmmmmm....
- -----------------------
Leo G. Divinagracia III
ldivinag@csuhayward.edu
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 13:28:25 -0800
From: Chris Geiger Subject: is this a sign of timing belt demise???
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
I noticed when I installed my Confer Xfer skid plate that the brackets
that they sell with it, cover and pinch the wire bundle coming out of
the transfer case and tranny. I tossed out the brackets and bolted the
skid plate directly to the cross member. Did you put the bracket on over
the wires?
Chris Geiger 93 4Runner http://geiger.mcl.ucsb.edu/offroad.html> funny thing is that the only thing new is the con-ferr tranny skid> plate that> i added... hmmmmmm....
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 10:23:22 -0800
From: "Roger Brown P.E." Subject: More on dual CB antennas
To: toy4x4@tlca.org
John wrote:>> ...
I went to the Firestik site (http://www.firestick.com) to see what they have to
...
The recommendation to co-phase will sell twice as many antennas:) I always
take fire-sticks advice with a minimum of 10 lbs. of
salt because they also recommend 18 feet of coax for any installation. This is
in technical RF Engineering terms "Malarkey".
...
< Subject: More on dual CB antennas
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Roger Brown P.E. wrote:> If you ever need to move the antenna; you'll always have enough cable. The> extra few feet> of wire costs very little.
Point taken, this is straying too far off topic and I will leave it at this. They
aren't recommending 18 feet for the convenience of the custormer, they recommend 18
feet because they believe that 11 meter antennas work best with 18ft ( approx. 1/2
wave) of coax. As long as the radiating element is PROPERLY tuned, the length of
coax makes Absolutely No Difference.
Any additional discussion of this should probably go to e-mail.
John
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 09:23:51 -0700
From: "Jay Kopycinski" Subject: Moscow mt.
To: Toyota 4x4 List Jonathan Albrecht wrote:>Friday night I got a call at about 5:30 from this guy I met about a>month ago right before I went home for winter break, and he wants to>know if I'm up for 4xing at 7:00. Am I! Hell yeah.
snip
Great story! Thanks Jonathan.
Jay
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 98 11:05:58 -0600
From: bwiencek@kcnet.com
Subject: Moscow mt. (air comp)
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org>exactly know what to expect. He popped the hood and I saw it. What a>beast! He'd moved the battery to the drivers side, and in it's place he>had a compressor about the size of a small motorcycle engine! Honestly,>it was bigger than an 8hp Briggs and Straton. Setup was kinda weird.
<>>As noisy as it was, it did work great, and inflated the tires from about>2# to about 15 in about 30 seconds each. After that we headed back to
You'll have to get some pics of that beast - sounds like he might have taken
the compressor from an old electric air compressor off, and hooked it up to
his engine.
- - Brian
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 09:58:07 -0500
From: Ed.Wong@astramerck.com
Subject: PowerTrax
To: toy4x4@tlca.org
Thansk to Allen for putting the brochures up on the web
http://members.home.com/aj7/
As far as I can tell, the PowerTrax diff is no different (from a basic design standpoint) from
a Detroit Locker. That would mean that it is essentially a SoftLocker (which as
I understand it, has a slightly different ramp on the dog leg clutch compared to
the venerable Detroit).
Any diff engineers out there?
EWong
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 11:34:00 -0500
From: Darren Floen Subject: PowerTrax
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
I looked at the brochures and i came to the same conclusion.A detroit
locker is a NO-SPIN and the new Powertrax unit is called
NO-SLIP,strange.There may be some differences but the engineering looks
very similar,imho.
Darren
Ed.Wong@astramerck.com wrote:>> Thansk to Allen for putting the brochures up on the web> http://members.home.com/aj7/>> As far as I can tell, the PowerTrax diff is no different (from a basic design standpoint) from> a Detroit Locker. That would mean that it is essentially a SoftLocker (which as> I understand it, has a slightly different ramp on the dog leg clutch compared to> the venerable Detroit).>> Any diff engineers out there?>> EWong
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 09:50:14 -0500
From: Ed.Wong@astramerck.com
Subject: Rear axle oil seal replacement
To: rogerb@pisco.engr.sgi.com, Toy4x4@tlca.org
Roger Asked:>> Snip
How much work is involved in replacing a rear seal and are any special tools
required?
<< Subject: Rear axle oil seal replacement
To: Toyota 4x4 List Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
"Roger Brown P.E." wrote:>I've recently noticed a gear oil leaking onto one of my rear wheels. Its an>'85 4Runner and its definitely gear oil, not brake fluid. About 6 months ago I>had the rear bearings and oil seals replaced (at a shop). I assume the oil>seal is the source of the leak (any other things to look at?).
Only one place the gear oil can come from.....thru the seal.>How much work is involved in replacing a rear seal and are any special tools>required?
You'll have to remove the brake line, parking brake hardware, and the
four stud nuts holding the rear axle in. Slide the axle out and you will
see the oil seal in the axle housing. You need to pry the seal out.
A seal puller works fine. I use a mini crow bar I have.
Lube the new seal so it will slide in a little easier and install it carefully.
You can use a large round object to tap it in the housing....if you have
one that size. I have been successful at carefully tapping them in using
a hammer. Tap lightly and work your way around the circumference
to slowly work it in.
Lube the inner diameter of the seal before installing the axle. Also, check
the area on the axle where the seal rides. Check for burrs or any other
problems that may prematurely wear the seal. If needed, you can use
emery paper or similar to smooth the axle shaft. Clean with a rag and
reinstall the axle, brake stuff, etc. I try to keep the axle from resting on
the seal when sliding it in, to keep from damaging or distorting the seal.>Is it a sure thing that the brake shoes are soaked with oil and will need>replacing?
There's a good chance they are contaminated.
Good luck.
Jay Kopycinski '85 Toylet (ROKTOY)
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 11:11:16 -0800
From: "Roger Brown P.E." Subject: Rear axle oil seal replacement
To: Ed.Wong@astramerck.com
On Jan 21, 9:50am, Ed.Wong@astramerck.com wrote:> Subject: Rear axle oil seal replacement> There is a seal inside the axle tube - kinda like a rear pinion seal,> and there is an "O Ring" type seal that goes around the> outside of the axle housing.>> I had this happen (at 9K miles so it was under warranty). However,> I had pulled the drum off to look at it thinking that the brakes> were toast. In any case - the dealer fixed it (also threw in a> new bearing) so I dunno what they actually replaced and I think> the reciept for that repair (1/90) is really buried.>> It appears that (at least on my truck) there is a "weep" type> hole that allowed the gear oil to leak to the outside w/o> affecting the brakes. In any case - no oil on the brakes> and oil all over the rim of the wheel.>> Its a pretty simple job.> The biggest PITA is disconnecting the brake line (and the> re-bleed that you need to do). Thextron makes a fluid plug> that makes life easier (or make a screw on block off plug> for the brake fitting - I think its 6mmx1.0 thread).>> Its a 4 nut deal on the backing plate.>> On the drum - there are two threaded (8mmx1.25 or 10mmx1.25)> holes that can be used to back the drum off. Put one bolt in each> hole and give them alternating 1/2 turns. Make sure the brake shoe> is retracted FIRST.>> While you are up close and intimate - lube the bell crank.>> Oh yeah - you could use a new cotterpin for the bell crank> cable - I use a paper clip in a pinch :)>> Ummm - a 10mm flare wrench helps - although the Sears Craftsman> ones seem a bit "big" for some reason.>> The o ring comes off real easy.> The inner seal may require a punch or a screwdriver. My favorite> is to use a spring loaded center punch on the "metal" part of the> seal and then insert a scredriver into the resulting hole.>-- End of excerpt from Ed.Wong@astramerck.com
Thanks for the excellent info, Ed. Since I recently had the axle bearings and
seals (inner I think) replaced, perhaps it is the outer O-ring leaking.
However, if oil is getting past the outer seal, it must be coming by the inner
one as well, or is there supposed to be oil along the axle shaft itself?
On the other hand, it may just be a case of a bit of "extra" gear oil. I found
I needed a bit more oil than listed in the Owner's manual to get to the bottom
of the fill hole. The pinion seal leaked for a short while after filling, but
then stopped (and yes, there is still oil in the diff, I've been checking).
The axle leak seemed to show up suddenly and now seems to have tapered off. I
think I'll watch it for a while and see how it progresses. I'll also pull my
breather hose and see if it is still open.
- --
Roger Brown, P.E. mailto:rogerb@sgi.com
+1.650.933.1898 (vmail) +1.650.932.1898 (fax)
http://reality.sgi.com/rogerb/
Check out the SGI EuroDev Forum: http://www-devprg.sgi.de/Forum98/
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 12:40:03 -0500 (EST)
From: Cartman Subject: rental cars
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org> First off, no manufacturer is willing to pay for a rental car unless in> extreme circumstances. These extreme circumstances normally have to be
My block was bored out and the truck was in the shop for 10 days.> a p.i.t.a). Even if the dealer agrees to cover the cost of the rental,> the extra insurance or having a second person able to drive the car> (which costs more in my area), or any other rental options are the> customers responsibilty!!! The dealer also isn't going to pay for you> to drive around in some high priced luxury car either. I won't even get
I gotta Ford Escort with NO extra insurance. The service manager said
(after the fact) that Enterprise near him KNOWS Toyota has a cap on rental
cars, so they don't charge them as much. Whereas the Enterprise near me
obviously didn't know that, nor did I.
Does this seem like a legitimate argument? The thing that sucks is that I
never got a written document saying that they'd pay for the rental car.
All word of mouth...
The $45 isn't much, but I don't like to be taken advantaged of...
- --
Doug Berger
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 10:01:14 -0800
From: "Roger Brown P.E." Subject: Rubicon page
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Todd wrote:>> If you haven't already looked, take a look at Chris Geiger's Rubicon page
for this summers trip. He's added lots of pictures and it looks really good
as far as letting everyone know who's coming, what they're bringing and what
their truck/runner looks like.
It's at http://geiger.mcl.ucsb.edu/rubicon/rubicon98
< Subject: soft brakes
To: cruiser4x4@coastnet.com
You wrote:>> I just spent the past two days installing a three inch lift in my 83 toy ,
to find I have a soft brake pedal. First thought air in lines ,
second master cylinder , third prop valve ????? I tried to adjust it
in a few ways but no difference.
Wold the incorrect prop valve adjustment give me a soft pedal ????
i don`t know but I think not. Rear shoes are low but pedal was fine prior to
lift install .
< wrote:>In a message dated 98-01-20 16:37:59 EST, you write:>>>> Well, after reading this, I had to calm down before I composed my reply>> this....> SNIP-SNIP-SNIPPITY-SNIP (LOTS)>>Settle down there little puppy!!! , you took a JOKE (at least thats how I>saw it) way too seroius. lighten up.
Well, I read it a couple of times to see if he was serious or kidding - no
smily faces or anthing to lean me one way or another.
If it was a joke fine, sorry to spout off like that (maybe next time there
will be more indication of it ;-)
- - Brian
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 08:46:17 -0800
From: davidl@city.victoria.bc.ca
Subject: Speedometer adjustment
I recently did the same thing when I swapped instrument clusters on my 89
4runner. I VERY GENTLY pried the speedo needle off from the front. I can't
remember EXACTLY what it looks like in there, but you might be able to take
the odometer assembly off without removing the needle. But, either way, the
needle does come off pretty easily.
Once you get the odo assembly off, on one end off the spindle that the
mileage wheels turn on, there is a SMALL circlip. If you take that off, it
takes the pressure off of the wheels and you can separate them and turn them
individually. (AND YES, I DID TURN THE MILEAGE (KILOMETER-AGE) AHEAD ).
This knowledge also came in handy when I added 31x10.5 tires. I measured
the rolling circumference, then working backward from the tires for a given
speed, I could calculate the RPM. Then while driving at the proper RPM, I
took the speedo needle off and repositioned it at the correct speed.
GOOD LUCK
Dave Luzzi
City of Victoria
Engineering Dept.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 09:03:27 -0800
From: Barney McNamara Subject: Speedometer adjustment
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org, bwiencek@kcnet.com
Brian wrote:>I just swapped a SR-5 insturment cluster My truck had 209xxx miles>on it and the new cluster shows 148xxx miles. I need to adjust>this mileage to reflect the true mileage of the truck. How can I do it?
When I swapped mine, I asked the guys at the junk yard to fix it for me.
They looked around real nervously, and took it in back to do it, but
they did it. When I looked closely at it, I saw marks on the plastic
that holds the transparent cover on the front, and scratches on the
number dials. I think they popped the cover off, then rotated the dials
with a sharp pointed instrument (like a knife blade or scribe.) I was
afraid they might have broken it, but here we are, a year and 25,000
miles later, and it is still working fine. I think you will have to
remove the gauges again to pop it open.
PS - I'm proud of the fact my Toy has over 225,000 on it, and I saw
no reason to pretend it had less.
______________________________________________________________
Barney McNamara JENNY - 83 Toyota Short Bed
( barney@flowpoint.com ) stock 22R motor ; 3" body lift
Santa Cruz, Ca. 8" alloy rims; 31" BFG A/Ts
homepage: http://www.scruz.net/~barneym/barnhome.htm
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Date: Wed, 21 Jan 98 11:07:39 -0600
From: bwiencek@kcnet.com
Subject: Speedometer adjustment
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org>>I just swapped a SR-5 insturment cluster My truck had 209xxx miles>>on it and the new cluster shows 148xxx miles. I need to adjust>>this mileage to reflect the true mileage of the truck. How can I do it?>>When I swapped mine, I asked the guys at the junk yard to fix it for me.
Well, the guys at the yard I bought it at had no clue - they just tried to
find one close to the mileage, and that's the highest mileage on they had.>PS - I'm proud of the fact my Toy has over 225,000 on it, and I saw>no reason to pretend it had less.
HEAR HEAR!!!
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Date: Wed, 21 Jan 98 11:13:39 -0600
From: bwiencek@kcnet.com
Subject: Speedometer adjustment
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org, davidl@city.victoria.bc.ca
On Wed, 21 Jan 1998, davidl@city.victoria.bc.ca wrote:>>I recently did the same thing when I swapped instrument clusters on my 89>4runner. I VERY GENTLY pried the speedo needle off from the front. I can't>remember EXACTLY what it looks like in there, but you might be able to take>the odometer assembly off without removing the needle. But, either way, the>needle does come off pretty easily.
Well, I pried a bit, but it didn't come off real easy, so I didn't want ot
break it before I tested it out and made sure it worked (I did spin the
speedometer to make sure it worked before I started messing with it, just to
make sure I'm starting with a working unit) I guess I'll have to pry a bit
harder. I'm thinking of using a pair of wire strippers, and place the
needle's shaft in the hole so I can pry evenly up on the needle.>Once you get the odo assembly off, on one end off the spindle that the>mileage wheels turn on, there is a SMALL circlip. If you take that off, it>takes the pressure off of the wheels and you can separate them and turn them>individually. (AND YES, I DID TURN THE MILEAGE (KILOMETER-AGE) AHEAD ).
Yeah, I knew how to do it once I got the thing apart, I just didn't want to
break it if toyota glued the things down or something like that.>This knowledge also came in handy when I added 31x10.5 tires. I measured>the rolling circumference, then working backward from the tires for a given>speed, I could calculate the RPM. Then while driving at the proper RPM, I>took the speedo needle off and repositioned it at the correct speed.
Interesting - but your odo would still be xx% off for every mile driven, but
it might be a way to make slight compensations for age/wear on the speedo
(i.e. gets older - registers a bit lower?)
THANKS a lot for the response I knew someone would have done the same thing
I'm wanting to do.
- - Brian
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Date: Wed, 21 Jan 98 13:42:00 -0500
From: Rosenberger Bud Subject: Speedometer adjustment
To: "mail@UUCP {Toy4x4@tlca.org}" Brian wrote:>it might be a way to make slight compensations for age/wear on the
speedo>(i.e. gets older - registers a bit lower?)
I had my speedo checked at the speedo shop and they said that they do
read slower with age. The speedo is run on a magnetic drive. Basically,
the cable is attached to a rotating magnet and the needle base is a steel
wheel in close proximity. The needle base becomes magnetized over time
and it reads slower. The odo is all gears tho and does not degrade.
As far as wanting to register actual miles, I agree. I get a giggle when
I look at the 165K on mine! I wouldn't want to replace it with a younger
model. Of course, I use the same line with my wife! She's 41 but
doesn't look a day over 40! :)
Bud R.
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Date: Wed, 21 Jan 98 11:05:47 -0600
From: bwiencek@kcnet.com
Subject: Speedometer adjustment - Here is what I Did....
To: deesmith@hiwaay.net>Hey Brian, I Agree with you!>I was in a similar situation as yourself.>Here is what I did with my 1986 4Runner.>On my origional Instrument "deluxe" cluster, showed 234,000 miles>but I wanted the "SR5 Instrument cluster" so as too have the>Tachometer, Oil Pressure Guage, Mileage Trip meter, etcetra.>>The problem was:>The "SR5 Cluster" had Much Less mileage showing.>SOLUTION:> I documented the "origional mileage" and the mileage from the>"donor" instrument cluster.>Now I know the EXACT mileage on my 1986 4Runner currently is:> 239,500 origional miles! :-)
Well, it's real easy on mine - it's exactly 51,003 miles off. (I simply add
51K miles to get the mileage, but right now as I drive I've got one of those
oil change stickers staring at me saying change your oil at 211k (they give
the stickers out for the do-it-yourselfer's with the purchase of the oil at
Western auto.) I guess, I'll make a note of it, and just adjust, or if I'm
real bored, hook up the drill and let 'er rip off 51k.>from the "Idiot light" sender to the "Guage Sending unit">It cost me about $12 dollars at my local "Autozone / Pep boys"
Already got the unit in, but the cheapest place around here was $21 for the
pressure guage sending unit. Most places wanted around $40 ! and believe me
I looked around when I heard $40!
- - Brian
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Date: Wed, 21 Jan 98 15:34:49 -0600
From: bwiencek@kcnet.com
Subject: Speedometer adjustment THANKS...
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Well, the concensus is that the needle does come off with a bit of prying,
and the higher mileage is a tribute to the fact that toys are a real tough,
long-lasting truck. Oh yeah - and the high mileage is a giggle to look at
when you figure how far they have travelled.
- - Brian
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Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 07:40:29 -0800 (PST)
From: michael carroll Subject: SPINGME
To: toy4x4@tlca.org
Jay and everybody thanks for the info I guess I did not wite that out
well.
the front of the truck seems to be o.k. 3 feet for fender height
the problem lies in the rear springs (2'9"at fender) being 13 years old
and so the rear sags from the new springs in front.
(I am sick of looking at the level for the frnt and bck of the truck
pointing up in the air when driving.)
heres what I nned to know :
If I get rear three inch springs and put them on the ride height
should be 3' frnt 3'back(assuming I get full 3 inches of lift)
basically saying that the back will ride a little higher at first but
then droop over time ?
Will the truck look like the ass is sticking up in the air too much ?
Does having different lift size springs on the front and then back
matter if the truck is level ?
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
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Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 09:22:51 -0700
From: "Jay Kopycinski" Subject: tach adj
To: Toyota 4x4 List ishi-tib@juno.com (J Doherty) wrote:>hey with all this talk of swapin gages I was wondering if any one>could tell me how to adjust the tach. I got a SR5 combo meter from a junk>yard not knowing it came from a V-6 so my 22RE is redlining 3k on the>tach. I've heard you can add a resistor to it to compinsate does any one>know where?
The tach meter itself is a DC current meter. Engine pulses are converted
to a proportional DC current to drive the meter. When you hook a V6 engine
to a 4 cylinder tach, the displayed engine speed is 1.5x actual. Installing
a shunt resistor will allow you to reduce the current driving the meter
by the factor needed to display the true V6 engine speed.
In your case, you have a 4 cylinder driving a V6 tach so that the displayed
engine speed is actually 67% of actual. In essence what you need is
something to increase the pulse rate by150%, or by increasing the current
at the meter itself by 150%. This will require a more complicated circuit
than the simple resistor method.
Jay Kopycinski '85 Toylet (ROKTOY)
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Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 11:34:06 -0500
From: Darren Floen Subject: tach adj
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
See Jay K's page on his 4.3 engine swap.It can be found on
Off-roac.com's Toyota page.Click on the highlight Tachometer in the
text.He explains how to put a potentiometer in the wiring so you can
adjust the tach.
Darren
J Doherty wrote:>> hey with all this talk of swapin gages I was wondering if any one> could tell me how to adjust the tach. I got a SR5 combo meter from a junk> yard not knowing it came from a V-6 so my 22RE is redlining 3k on the> tach. I've heard you can add a resistor to it to compinsate does any one> know where?> -Jack-
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Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 14:25:22 ADT
From: "Corey Smith" Subject: Tire tilted
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org>I have seen all the messages about the wheel tilted out at the top,>but mine is tilted in at the top. When I jack it up it does not>wiggle. What else could it be and how hard is it to take apart?>Corey>------------------------------>Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 19:13:29 -0500>From: Darren Floen >Subject: Front wheel tilted other way>To: Toy4x4@tlca.org>What year is your truck?>Darren
My truck is an '83 SWB.
If it helps any, it's lifted with 33's.
Thanks in advance, Corey
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Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 11:01:06 -0800
From: Brandon Miller Subject: Tire tilted
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
It has probably been jumped and the axle is bent, can't fix it unless
you replace the axle...
Corey Smith wrote:>>I have seen all the messages about the wheel tilted out at the top,>>but mine is tilted in at the top. When I jack it up it does not>>wiggle. What else could it be and how hard is it to take apart?>>Corey>>>------------------------------>>>Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 19:13:29 -0500>>From: Darren Floen >>Subject: Front wheel tilted other way>>To: Toy4x4@tlca.org>>>What year is your truck?>>>Darren>> My truck is an '83 SWB.> If it helps any, it's lifted with 33's.>> Thanks in advance, Corey
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Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 14:44:06 -0500
From: Darren Floen Subject: Tire tilted
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
I agree with Brandon,but check the kingpin bearings and wheel bearing
for play with a long bar under the tire while the truck is jacked up
with jackstands under the axle,so there is no load on the hub you are
checking.Use a heavy object such as a big sledge hammer or a kicthen
chair to put right beside the tire,about 1/2" away from the top of the
tire.This will let you see any play you might have.Play in bearings is
sometimes hard to feel because of the grease in them.It acts like a
schock absorber,making it hard to feel play.At the same time spin the
tire over by hand and look for any runout or wobble.You might have a
bent housing,bent spindle,or broken spindle bolts.Are you tires wearing
funny?Is this on the right or left side?A front housing will normally
bend on the longer side(the few that i've seen).Try running a straight
edge from one leafsrpring to the other,and you may be able to see where
its bent.
Darren
Brandon Miller wrote:>> It has probably been jumped and the axle is bent, can't fix it unless> you replace the axle...>> Corey Smith wrote:>>>>I have seen all the messages about the wheel tilted out at the top,>>>but mine is tilted in at the top. When I jack it up it does not>>>wiggle. What else could it be and how hard is it to take apart?>>>Corey>>>>>------------------------------>>>>>Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 19:13:29 -0500>>>From: Darren Floen >>>Subject: Front wheel tilted other way>>>To: Toy4x4@tlca.org>>>>>What year is your truck?>>>>>Darren>>>> My truck is an '83 SWB.>> If it helps any, it's lifted with 33's.>>>> Thanks in advance, Corey
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Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 10:34:29 EST
From: Wbsims Subject: Toy4x4 Digest V1 #668
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
I have a stock 81 long bed and would like power steering. is there any way to
add power steering to my truck. it is a four speed 4x4 with a/c. Thanks
Bart Sims
81 long bed 4x4
22r 4 spd
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Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 09:34:34 -0500
From: Ed.Wong@astramerck.com
Subject: Truck Pricing
To: breeze@cysource.com, Toy4x4@tlca.org
Jeff:
FYI - As far as I know (AFAIK) - *all* the gen1 4Runners (i.e.that
had the fiberglass tops) came with a rear roll bar.
Ive seen many used car lots (ahem - pre-owned) label this thing as
if it were come kind of super special custom aftermarket add on..
EWong
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Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 08:48:43 -0600
From: "Michael Rowe" Subject: Truck Pricing
To: - -----Original Message-----
From: CowbyUp77 > What would any of you pay for this truck?? ( A ball park
number>would suffice). The dealer wants $6000. To me thats sounds way to high.
I>know it's hard to say with out seeing it but any idea would help.
Based on your description I wouldn't pay more than $2000 to $3000. If its in
as bad a shape as it sounds then there are prob. a multitude of sins lurking
with in it. NOT that it isn't worthy for redemption but the price needs to
be right to make it worth your while.
Michael Rowe
http://www.southpadre.com/offroad.htm
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Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 09:04:08 -0700
From: "Jay Kopycinski" Subject: vented disk swap: better stops?
To: Toyota 4x4 List DRM033 wrote:>I was looking at the info on the vented disc swap for solid axle trucks. Does>this offer a noticable increase in breaking? We have already put an IFS rear>axle in an 84 truck, mainly for the larger brakes. With 35's, this truck just>plain needs more help in the braking dept.>thanks!
It is not a quantum leap in braking power, but is noticeable. Your cheapest
solution on the front is installing good quality pads. Past that the vented rotor
stop will help as well. It costs a few bucks, but if it's time to change either
calipers or rotors, it's definitely worth swapping out both.
The single plate rotors tend to warp easier as they heat up. Your greatest
gain in braking will come during long braking intervals or repeated use
that tends to heat up the single plate rotors.....and big tires get 'em hot
quicker.
Jay Kopycinski '85 Toylet (ROKTOY)
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Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 10:02:27 -0800
From: Barney McNamara Subject: vented disk swap: better stops?
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org, David wrote:>I was looking at the info on the vented disc swap for solid axle trucks.
Does>this offer a noticable increase in breaking? We have already put an IFS rear>axle in an 84 truck, mainly for the larger brakes. With 35's, this truck
just>plain needs more help in the braking dept.>thanks!
I did the vented rotor swap when my rotors were too thin to machine flat
anymore. I also had diff oil leaking onto my brake pads, so they needed
replacing. I saw an improvement in stopping power, but don't think it
had much to do with the thicker disks. I did the swap because I needed
new rotors, and wanted more reliable brakes with less fading due to
overeating. Also, I figured the vented rotors would be less likely to
warp while I ride them down the hill to work everyday.
______________________________________________________________
Barney McNamara JENNY - 83 Toyota Short Bed
( barney@flowpoint.com ) stock 22R motor ; 3" body lift
Santa Cruz, Ca. 8" alloy rims; 31" BFG A/Ts
homepage: http://www.scruz.net/~barneym/barnhome.htm
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Date: 21 Jan 98 13:25:09 -0500
From: "Karl Bellve" Subject: vented disk swap: better stops?
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org> David wrote:>>I was looking at the info on the vented disc swap for solid axle trucks.> Does>>this offer a noticable increase in breaking? We have already put an IFS rear>>axle in an 84 truck, mainly for the larger brakes. With 35's, this truck> just>>plain needs more help in the braking dept.>>thanks!>> I did the vented rotor swap when my rotors were too thin to machine flat> anymore. I also had diff oil leaking onto my brake pads, so they needed> replacing. I saw an improvement in stopping power, but don't think it> had much to do with the thicker disks. I did the swap because I needed> new rotors, and wanted more reliable brakes with less fading due to> overeating. Also, I figured the vented rotors would be less likely to> warp while I ride them down the hill to work everyday.
I also did the swap. Hard to tell if the results are from new
components versus old or vented versus solid. End result is that you
do get better braking.
- --
Cheers,
Dr. Karl Bellve
Biomedical Imaging Group
University of Massachusetts
WWW : http://molmed.ummed.edu/~kdb/
Email: kdb@molmed.ummed.edu
Phone: (508) 856-3785
Fax : (508) 856-1840
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Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 12:06:57 -0500
From: Martin Gotch Subject: Wheel Backspacing
To: Toy4x4 >Greg S. Francis wrote:>I know we've covered this before, but what is the correct>backspacing for a 15x8 wheel on an IFS Toy? Suppose this>wheel was sporting 32x11.5s, and those meats wanted to remain>inside the fenders. Do I recall correctly that American Racing>makes a type 62 wheel with the correct backspacing?>Thanks.>Greg
I purchased (in 1993) ARE 15x8's in a type 215 for use on my 92 with BFG AT 32x11.5's to keep the tires inboard. I specified to the sales guy that I wanted a rim that would not stick out any more than the stock 15x7's, and this did it. Everything fits real nice. Some like the wide stance look of most aftermarket rims, but unless you have a bit of lift, things tend to hit off road. The worst is how many new JXXP owners get cheap rims that place the tires halfway out of the wheel well. Good for mall cruising..
Martin Gotch
92 DxCab V6 auto/BFGAT 32x11.5
96 Ltd. 4Runner w/lousy stock highway tires!!
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